Inhibitory effects of Sargassum polycystum on tyrosinase activity and melanin formation in B16F10 murine melanoma cells

Skin Improvement Effects of Ultrasound-Enzyme-Treated Collagen Peptide Extracts from Flatfish (Paralichthys olivaceus) Skin in an In Vitro Model

Collagen is considered to be an intercellular adhesive that prevents tissue stretching or damage. It is widely utilized in cosmetic skin solutions, drug delivery, vitreous substitutions, 3D cell cultures, and surgery. In this study, we report the development of a green technology for manufacturing collagen peptides from flatfish skin using ultrasound and enzymatic treatment and a subsequent assessment on skin functionality. First, flatfish skin was extracted using ultrasound in distilled water (DW) for 6 h at 80 °C. Molecular weight analysis via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) after treatment with industrial enzymes (alcalase, papain, protamex, and flavourzyme) showed that the smallest molecular weight (3.56 kDa) was achieved by adding papain (0.5% for 2 h). To determine functionality based on peptide molecular weight, two fractions of 1100 Da and 468 Da were obtained through separation using Sephadex™ G-10. We evaluated the effects of these peptides on protection against oxidative stress in human keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells, inhibition of MMP-1 expression in human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells, reduction in melanin content, and the inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme activity in murine melanoma (B16F10) cells. These results demonstrate that the isolated low-molecular-weight peptides exhibit superior skin anti-oxidant, anti-wrinkle, and whitening properties.

Anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenic effects of piperine isolated from Piper nigrum on B16F10 mouse melanoma cells

The essential function of melanin is to protect our skin against harmful environmental factors. However, excessive melanin production can cause undesirable hyperpigmentation issues, such as freckles and melasma. Although several compounds are used to control melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase (TYR), their efficacy is limited by skin-related adverse effects and cytotoxicity concerns. Consequently, searching for new natural compounds with an effective TYR inhibitor (TYR-I) activity but less harmful effects continues. Plant-based natural extracts are an alternative that are in great demand due to their safety and diverse biological properties. This study assessed ten isolated plant compounds for their TYR-I activities using an in vitro mushroom TYR inhibition assay. Among these compounds, piperine (400 μM) demonstrated the highest TYR-I activity, with a potency of 36.27 ± 1.96 %. Hence, this study examined the effect of piperine on melanogenesis in melanocyte stimulating hormone-treated B16F10 melanoma cells and using kojic acid as a positive reference. Cell viability was evaluated through the standard 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide assay. Measurements of cellular TYR activity and melanin content were performed and related to changes in the transcriptional expression levels of melanogenesis-related genes, assessed via quantitative real-time reverse transcriptase (RT-q)PCR analysis. The results revealed that piperine at a concentration of 44 μM significantly reduced cellular TYR activity by 21.51 ± 2.00 % without causing cytotoxicity. Additionally, at the same concentration, piperine significantly decreased the intracellular melanin content by 37.52 ± 2.53 % through downregulating transcription levels of TYR and TYR-related protein 1 (TRP-1) but not TRP-2. Kojic acid, at a concentration of 1407 μM, induced a significant decrease in the melanin content and cellular TYR activity by suppressing all three melanogenesis-related genes. These findings suggest that piperine has potential as a potent depigmenting agent.

Pharmaceutical Potential Evaluation of Damask Rose By-Products from Volatile Oil Extraction

Despite its well-known fragrance in cosmetics and medicine, a complete understanding of the phytochemical properties within by-products generated during commercial extraction of Damask rose remains elusive. Cultivated in Thailand for their essential oil, Damask rose varieties, including Mon Dang Prasert, Mon Klai Kangwon, and Bishop's Castle, share phenylethyl alcohol (57.62-61.11%) as the dominant component, which is responsible for their characteristic floral, sweet, rosy, and bready aroma. Through a circular hydro-distillation process, three different by-product fractions, including distilled water (D), hydrosol (H), and rose dreg (R), were recovered. Subsequently, we assessed their pharmaceutical potential, including the antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-melanogenesis properties of these residual substances. The H fraction displayed the highest total phenolics (10.56 mgGAE/g) and flavonoids (6.93 mgCE/g) and significant antioxidant activity (IC50, 0.67-0.97 µg/mL). While the H fraction inhibited melanin formation at 50 μg/mL, the R fraction of MK (100 μg/mL) surprisingly promoted melanin production in B16-F10 cells. Nevertheless, the antimicrobial assay against Staphylococcus aureus, Cutibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli, and Candida albicans revealed no antimicrobial activity in any fraction. Murine macrophage stimulation (J774A.1) with lipopolysaccharide revealed no anti-inflammatory effects from the by-products, as measured by IL-1β production. In summary, the H fraction exhibited the highest level of phenolic and flavonoid contents, as well as antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities. Therefore, this by-product is a desirable choice for the development of value-added products such as functional food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products.

Hybrid protein microspheres and their responsive release behaviors and inhibitory effects on melanin synthesis

In this study, the formation of protein microspheres through lysosomal enzyme-assisted biomineralized crystallization was demonstrated. Spherical micro-sized hybrid CaCO3 constructs were synthesized and characterized using field-emission scanning electron microscopy equipped with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, and particle size analysis. Additionally, parameters such as the Brunauer-Emmett-Teller surface area and single-point total pore volume, and adsorption/desorption analysis were used to investigate the mesoporous properties, which are advantageous for lysosomal enzyme (LE) loading. A LE can be used as an organic template, not only as a morphological controller but also for entrapping LE during the crystallization pathway. The hybrid protein microspheres accommodated 2.3 mg of LE with a 57% encapsulation efficiency and 5.1 wt% loading. The peroxidase activity of the microspheres was calculated and found to be approximately 0.0238 mM-1 min-1. pH-responsive release of the LE from CaCO3 was observed, suggesting potential biomedical and cosmetic applications in acidic environments. The hybrid LE microsphere treatment significantly alleviated melanin production in a dose-dependent manner and further downregulated the mRNA expression of MITF, tyrosinase, TYRP-1, and TYRP-2. These results indicate skin-whitening effects by inhibiting melanin without inducing cytotoxicity. The data provide the first evidence of the potential use of a LE for obtaining hybrid minerals and the effectiveness of biomineralization-based sustainable delivery of enzyme-based vehicles based on organelle-extract-assisted biomineralization.

Phytonano silver for cosmetic formulation- synthesis, characterization, and assessment of antimicrobial and antityrosinase potential

Novel formulations of silver nanoparticles remain exciting if it is applicable for cosmetic purposes. This study proposes a value-added brand-new nanomaterial for improving skin complexion by inhibiting melanin development. This work aims to develop cost effective, efficient, natural silver nanoparticles phytomediated by aqueous extract of leaf sheath scales of Cocos nucifera (Cn-AgNPs) having potential as tyrosinase inhibitors hindering melanin synthesis. The formation of Cn-AgNPs was assessed spectrophotometrically and confirmed by the sharp SPR spectrum at 425 nm. The chemical composition profiling was characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The morphology was confirmed by Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FESEM) and the thermal stability was assessed by Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Pharmacological application studies supported the materialization of Cn-AgNPs with significant antityrosinase potential and considerably improved antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Cn-AgNPs showed potential antibacterial effects against gram-positive and negative strains, including prominent infectious agents of the skin. Antioxidant capacity was confirmed with an IC50 of 57.8 μg/mL by DPPH radical scavenging assay. Furthermore, in vitro melanin content determination was performed using SK-MEL cells. Cell line studies proved that Cn-AgNPs decrease the melanin content of cells. The IC50 value obtained was 84.82 μg/mL. Hence Cn-AgNPs is proposed to be acting as a whitening agent through lessening cellular melanin content and as a significant inhibitor of tyrosinase activity. The antioxidant properties and antibacterial effects can contribute to skin rejuvenation and can prevent skin infections as well. This evidence proposes the development of a new nanostructured pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulation from Cocos nucifera leaf sheath scales.

Melanogrit potentiates melanogenesis by escalating cellular tyrosinase activity and MITF levels via pERK inhibition

Vitiligo is characterized by the development of white patches on the skin either due to the loss of functional melanocytes or perturbations in the melanogenesis pathway. In the present study, we investigated the therapeutic potential of herbo-mineral formulation, Melanogrit in neutralizing the white patches in the skin. The study utilized UPLC/MS-QToF technique to determine the diversified phytochemical profile in Melanogrit. The murine B16F10 cells when treated with Melanogrit underwent morphological changes, including increased angularity, enlarged cell size, and greater dendritic protrusions. To establish an equivalent model to study melanogenesis, we carefully optimized the dosage of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (αMSH) in B16F10 cells as an alternative to using melanocyte-keratinocyte cocultures. The study determined a sub-optimal dose of αMSH (0.2 nM) in B16F10 cells that does not manifest any measurable effects on melanogenesis. In contrast, Melanogrit when used in conjunction with 0.2 nM αMSH, induced a dose-dependent increase in extracellular and intracellular melanin levels. Melanogrit transcriptionally up-regulated the decisive genes of the melanogenesis pathway, MITF, TYR, and TRP1, which was evident from the increased cellular tyrosine activity. Our findings also demonstrated that Melanogrit ameliorated the MITF protein levels by inhibiting pERK; notably without involving GSK3β in the process. Taken together, our findings strongly suggest that Melanogrit has the potential to stimulate melanogenesis, making it a promising candidate for clinical applications in the treatment of white skin patches that develop in vitiligo patients.

Anti-tyrosinase and antimelanogenic effect of cinnamic acid derivatives from Prunus mahaleb L.: Phenolic composition, isolation, identification and inhibitory activity

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The traditional use of Prunus species against skin diseases and especially for skin lightning cosmeceutical purposes is widespread in many cultures. Prunus mahaleb L. is a well known food plant and used in the baking industry for flavoring. The fruit kernels (endocarp) are used in India for hyperpigmentation.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To investigate the chemical composition with the antimelanogenesis effect of P. mahaleb seed and kernel extracts and isolated compounds.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Isolation studies performed from the methanol extracts obtained from kernels and structures were determined using NMR and MS analysis. Antimelanogenesis effect was determined by mushroom tyrosinase assay, cellular tyrosinase assay and melanin content assay using B16F10 murine melanoma cells.

RESULTS

Five cinnamic acid derivatives were isolated and their structures (2-O-β-glucopyranosyloxy-4-methoxy-hydrocinnamic acid (1), cis-melilotoside (2), dihydromelilotoside (3), trans-melilotoside (4), 2-O-β-glucosyloxy-4-methoxy trans-cinnamic acid (5)) were elucidated using advanced spectroscopic methods. Mushroom tyrosinase enzyme inhibition of extracts, fractions and pure compounds obtained from P. mahaleb kernels were investigated and structure-activity relationship revealed. According to a detailed, comprehensive and validated LC-MS/MS technique analysis, vanilic acid (41.407 mg/g), protocatechuic acid (8.992 mg/g) and ferulic acid (4.962 mg/g) in the kernel ethylacetate fraction; quinic acid (14.183 mg/g), fumaric acid (8.349 mg/g) and aconitic acid (5.574 mg/g) were found as major phenolic compounds in the water fraction. The correlation of trace element copper content in extracts and fractions with mushroom enzyme activity was determined. By examining the enzyme kinetics of the compounds with effective cinnamic acid derivatives, inhibition types and enzyme binding constants K_i were calculated. Compounds 1,3 and 5 exhibited high noncompetitive tyrosinase inhibitory activity against L-tyrosine substrates, with IC₅₀ values of 0.22, 0.31 and 0.37 mM respectively. In addition compounds 1, 3 and 5 showed dose-dependent inhibitory effects on intracellular tyrosinase and melanin levels in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Potent tyrosinase inhibitory compounds and extracts of P. mahaleb kernels suggest that it could be a new, non-toxic and inexpensive resource for the cosmeceutical industry and in skin diseases associated with hyperpigmentation.

Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Essential Oils from the Peels of Citrus Cultivars

Citrus cultivars have remarkable health benefits, but only the anti-inflammatory activities of the major varieties have been studied. This study investigated the anti-inflammatory effects of various citrus cultivars and their active anti-inflammatory components. The essential oils of 21 citrus peels were extracted via hydrodistillation using a Clevenger-type apparatus, and the chemical compositions of the essential oils were analyzed. D-Limonene was the most abundant constituent. To evaluate the anti-inflammatory effects of the citrus cultivars, the gene expression levels of an inflammatory mediator and proinflammatory cytokines were investigated. Among the 21 essential oils, those extracted from C. japonica and C. maxima exhibited superior anti-inflammatory activities, being able to inhibit the expression of the inflammatory mediators and proinflammatory cytokines in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. The essential oils of C. japonica and C. maxima were distinguished into seven distinct constituents, α-pinene, myrcene, D-limonene, β-ocimene, linalool, linalool oxide, and α-terpineol, compared with other essential oils. The anti-inflammatory activities of the seven single compounds significantly inhibited the levels of inflammation-related factors. In particular, α-terpineol exhibited a superior anti-inflammatory effect. This study showed that the essential oils from C. japonica and C. maxima exhibit high anti-inflammatory activity. In addition, α-terpineol is an active anti-inflammatory compound that contributes to inflammatory responses.

Marine Algal Polyphenols as Skin Protective Agents: Current Status and Future Prospectives

The skin is the outermost anatomical barrier, which plays a vital role in the maintenance of internal homeostasis and protection against physical, chemical, and biological detractors. Direct contact with various stimuli leads to several physiological changes that are ultimately important for the growth of the cosmetic industry. Due to the consequences of using synthetic compounds in skincare and cosmeceutical-related industries, the pharmaceutical and scientific communities have recently shifted their focus to natural ingredients. The nutrient-rich value of algae, which are some of the most interesting organisms in marine ecosystems, has attracted attention. Secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds are potential candidates for a wide range of economic applications, including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. An increasing number of studies have focused on polyphenol compounds owing to their promising biological activities against oxidation, inflammation, allergies, cancers, melanogenesis, aging, and wrinkles. This review summarizes the potential evidence of the beneficial properties and future perspectives of using marine macroalgae-derived polyphenolic compounds for advancing the cosmetic industry.

Biochemical Characteristics and Potential Biomedical Applications of Hydrolyzed Carrageenans

Seaweed contains a variety of bioactive compounds; the most abundant of them are polysaccharides, which have significant biological and chemical importance. Although algal polysaccharides, especially the sulfated polysaccharides, have great potential in the pharmaceutical, medical and cosmeceutical sectors, the large molecular size often limits their industrial applications. The current study aims to determine the bioactivities of degraded red algal polysaccharides by several in vitro experiments. The molecular weight was determined by size-exclusion chromatography (SEC), and the structure was confirmed by FTIR and NMR. In comparison to the original furcellaran, the furcellaran with lower molecular weight had higher OH scavenging activities. The reduction in molecular weight of the sulfated polysaccharides resulted in a significant decrease in anticoagulant activities. Tyrosinase inhibition improved 2.5 times for hydrolyzed furcellaran. The alamarBlue assay was used to determine the effects of different Mw of furcellaran, κ-carrageenan and ι-carrageenan on the cell viability of RAW264.7, HDF and HaCaT cell lines. It was found that hydrolyzed κ-carrageenan and ι-carrageenan enhanced cell proliferation and improved wound healing, whereas hydrolyzed furcellaran did not affect cell proliferation in any of the cell lines. Nitric oxide (NO) production decreased sequentially as the Mw of the polysaccharides decreased, which indicates that hydrolyzed κ-Carrageenan, ι-carrageenan and furcellaran have the potential to treat inflammatory disease. These findings suggested that the bioactivities of polysaccharides were highly dependent on their Mw, and the hydrolyzed carrageenans could be used in new drug development as well as cosmeceutical applications.

Inhibitory Effects of Caulerpa racemosa, Ulva intestinalis, and Lobophora challengeriae on Tyrosinase Activity and α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Melanogenesis involves a synthesis of melanin pigment and is regulated by tyrosinase. The addition of whitening agents with tyrosinase-inhibiting properties in cosmetics is becoming increasingly important. In this study, the ethanolic extracts from twelve seaweeds were assessed for tyrosinase-inhibiting activity using mushroom tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. The highest mushroom tyrosinase inhibition (IC50) was observed with Lobophora challengeriae (0.15 ± 0.01 mg mL−1); treatment was more effective than kojic acid (IC50 = 0.35 ± 0.05 mg mL−1), a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Three seaweeds, Caulerpa racemosa, Ulva intestinalis, and L. challengeriae, were further investigated for their ability to reduce melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. The ethanolic extracts of C. racemosa, U. intestinalis, and L. challengeriae showed inhibitory effects by reducing melanin and intracellular tyrosinase levels in B16F10 cells treated with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone in a dose-dependent manner. C. racemosa (33.71%) and L. challengeriae (36.14%) at 25 µg mL−1 reduced melanin production comparable to that of kojic acid (36.18%). L. challengeriae showed a stronger inhibition of intracellular tyrosinase (decreased from 165.23% to 46.30%) than kojic acid (to 72.50%). Thus, ethanolic extracts from C. racemosa, U. intestinalis, and L. challengeriae can be good sources of natural tyrosinase inhibitors and therapeutic or cosmetic agents in the future.

Comparative study of doxycycline, sancycline, and 4-dedimethylamino sancycline (CMT-3) on epidermal melanogenesis

Melanogenesis is regulated by melanocytes, which synthesize the pigment melanin inside melanosomes; these melanosomes are exported through dendritic extensions to adjacent keratinocytes and result in skin coloration. Chemically modified tetracyclines (CMTs) are nonantimicrobial tetracyclines that retain the capacity to inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and have shown several biological benefits; in particular, CMT-3 [(4-dedimethylamino sancycline (SAN)] has emerged as a candidate for therapeutic benefits in our previous studies. However, to date, studies of the effects of CMT-3 or SAN on melanogenesis are lacking. We have previously reported the anti-melanogenic activity of CMT-308 (the 9-amino derivative of CMT-3). Herein, we have compared the three tetracycline analogs, doxycycline (DOX), SAN, and CMT-3, for their effects on melanogenesis using B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and have validated results in primary human melanocytes (HEMn-DP). DOX did not show any significant effects on intracellular melanin or melanosome export in DP cells while SAN was cytotoxic at high doses but without effects on melanogenesis at lower doses. However, CMT-3 showed a robust suppression of dendricity parameters (dendrite number, dendrite length, and proportion of dendritic cells) in DP cells which was associated, at least in part, with a significant reduction of intracellular tyrosinase activity. In spite of its inhibition of tyrosinase activity, CMT-3 had no significant effects on intracellular melanin levels, suggesting that it selectively targets melanosome export. Our results demonstrate a unique structure-activity relationship (SAR) for the effects of these compounds on melanogenesis and support the conclusion that removal of the 4-dimethylamino moiety confers the selective capacity to suppress melanosome export. Collectively, these results indicate that CMT-3 might be a candidate for diminishing hyperpigmentation skin disorders.

Mechanism and inhibitory effects of cactus (Opuntia dillenii) extract on melanocytes and its potential application for whitening cosmetics

Penghu cactus (Opuntia dillenii [Ker.] Haw) is a cactus plant that commonly grows in Penghu Island, Taiwan, Republic of China (ROC). However, still lack of scientific study on the Opuntia dillenii [Ker.] Haw extract on skin-whitening-associated tyrosinase activity and melanin production. The activities of its extract in melanogenesis were investigated in this article. In this experiment, we used an extract from the Penghu cactus (Opuntia dillenii [Ker.] Haw) to study its tyrosinase inhibition, anti-melanin generation, UV-protection effects and wound healing capacity in B16-F10 melanocytes. Without reducing cell growth greatly or causing cell death, 20 g/L cactus extract effectively inhibited the melanin production of B16-F10 cells, and melanogenesis was induced by 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine. The cactus extract could also promote cell proliferation. Cactus extract treatment decreased the mRNA expression of insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and increased that of transforming growth factor β (TGF-β). Thus, it could reduce cell melanin production and promote cell growth but by also reducing IGF-1 and VEGF mRNA expression, may reduce wound scarring and prevent tumor proliferation and swelling. Increasing TGF-β mRNA expression can help increase collagen to remove wrinkles and help in wound healing. Skin patch test results agreed with in vitro results with B16-F10 melanoma cells. The cactus extract significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and reduced melanin production, showing a whitening effect on skin tests. Cactus may be a good natural candidate for inhibiting melanin production and promoting cell proliferation.

Chemical Composition and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities of Fatty Acids Obtained from Heterotrophic Microalgae, S. limacinum and C. cohnii

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme for melanin production in plant and mammalian cells. Upregulation of this enzyme results in hyperpigmentation disorders. In order to treat pigmentation problems, novel skin whitening compounds are extremely screened. It is found that fatty acids based on their saturation levels either increase or decrease tyrosinase enzyme activity. Thus, fatty acids and their compositions are promising candidates for the treatment of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation disorders. Microalgae are rich in both saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, as well. In this study, C. cohnii and S. limacinum fatty acids were evaluated as tyrosinase inhibitor candidates. Mushroom tyrosinase activity studies displayed that both extracts increase tyrosinase enzyme activity dose-dependently. On the other hand, S. limacinum at 200 µg ml^-1 concentration almost decreased half of tyrosinase enzyme activity in B16-F10 cells. Besides, it was 3 times more efficient for tyrosinase enzyme activity inhibition and 2 times more effective to decrease melanin synthesis compared to C. cohnii. Considering low toxicity to B16-F10 melanoma and healthy keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), S. limacinum fatty acids could be a suitable source for lipid-based tyrosinase inhibitory functional cosmetics products.

The Major Stilbene Compound Accumulated in the Roots of a Resistant Variety of Phoenix dactylifera L. Activates Proteasome for a Path in Anti-Aging Strategy

The main objective of the present study is to estimate, through differential analysis, various biological activities of total phenolics content in alcoholic extracts of three date palm varieties sensitive or resistant to Fusarium oxysporum. sp Albidinis. Here, stilbene products with antioxidant and bioactive capacities were evidenced in resistant variety Taabdount (TAAR). Furthermore, the methanolic fraction of the TAAR-resistant date palm variety contains a significant product, determined by LC-MS/MS and 1H, 13C NMR, belonging to the family of hydroxystilbenes, which exhibits antioxidant capacities, inhibits the mushroom tyrosinase activity, and activates and exerts a protective effect on hypochlorite-induced damage in 20S proteasome of human dermal fibroblast aged cells. Altogether, the present results indicate that hydroxystilbene present in resistant Phoenix dactylifera L. should be studied to understand the way that the stilbene could exert anti-aging ability.

Application of traditional Chinese medicine as skin depigmentation agents

Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) has been frequently used as skin lightning agents. However, the mechanism of action of their effect is unclear. The present study aims to evaluate anti-tyrosinase activity of 10 commonly used TCM on mushroom (ab), human (hs) and mouse melanoma B16F0 (mm) tyrosinase (TYR) respectively. The results showed that at 1.0 mg/mL, extracts from Rosa rugosa Thumb, Morus alba L. and Paeonia lactiflora Pall were active against both abTYR and hsTYR (>50% inhibition), extracts from Bletilla striata (Thunb.) Rchb. F., Centella asiatica (L.) Urb, Cynanchum atratum L., Rosa canina L., Rhus chinensis Mill. and Glycyrrhiza urolensis Fisch. Ex DC. inhibited either abTYR or hsTYR (>50%), while extract from Tribulus terrestris L. had no/minimal activity (<10% inhibition). When treated with melanoma B16F0 cells, M. alba also significantly reduced mmTYR activity (70% at 250 μg/mL) and melanin content (50% at 250 μg/mL). These findings demonstrated inhibitory effects of 9 TCM against TYR and hence support their application as skin lightning agents. Our results also showed discrepancies in TYR activity from different sources, suggesting a testing regime of combining abTYR, hsTYR and mmTYR when developing depigmentation agents for human application.

Anti-Melanogenesis Effect of Polysaccharide from Saussurea involucrata on Forskolin-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

As one of the prominent medicinal plants listed in the Chinese pharmacopoeia (2020), Saussurea involucrata (Kar. et Kir.) Sch.-Bip was demonstrated to possess various therapeutic effects. In our recent research, we extracted the polysaccharides from S. involucrata (SIP) at optimal conditions and conducted further structure elucidation on the main fraction as well as the confirmation of its possible anti-inflammatory activity. Hence, in this work, we assessed the in vitro antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenesis effects of the crude SIP in forskolin-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. The results show that SIP possessed strong antioxidant activity and was effective in concentration-dependently decreasing melanin formation and inhibiting tyrosinase activity in forskolin-induced B16F10 cells. Based on these results, the inhibitory mechanism of melanogenesis was investigated by measuring Tyrosinase (TYR), Tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), Tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2), Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-response element binding protein (CREB), mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) signaling protein members, and β-catenin degradation in forskolin-induced B16F10 cells. The anti-melanogenesis response of SIP might be attributed to the regulation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) phosphorylation and β-catenin degradation pathways. These results suggest that polysaccharides from S. involucrata possess a strong anti-melanogenic effect, and thus could be used as a high-value natural material for skin whitening in cosmeceutical industries.

Extraction and Concentration of Waste Pueraria lobata Stems with Antioxidants and Anti-Melanogenesis Activity as a Novel Skin Whitening Agent for Natural Cosmetic Prototypes

The root of Pueraria lobata (Willd.) is used commercially in different products, including dietary supplements, cosmetics, and teas, but its stem part is rarely used and studied. Therefore, this study evaluated the antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of the bioactive fraction of P. lobata stem and investigated whether the activated carbon decolorization technique would have an impact on its activity and chemical composition. We observed that the dichloromethane fraction of P. lobata stem (DCM-PLS) has excellent antioxidant and anti-melanin synthesis activity at a concentration of 50 μg/mL. For the investigation of the anti-melanogenesis mechanism, we evaluated the mRNA expression of tyrosinase, which was depressed by the DCM-PLS. Daidzin was identified as the main active ingredient in DCM-PLS by using a high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector-hyphenated with tandem mass spectrometry. In addition, the activated carbon decolorization technology has no negative impact on the main components and bioactivity of DCM-PLS. DCM-PLS also did not induce any skin response in the human skin safety test. Collectively, DCM-PLS could be used as a natural type of skin-whitening agent in skin care products.

Potential Beneficial Effects of Sargassum spp. in Skin Aging

Seaweeds are receiving much attention as a rich source of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical potential. Recent studies have revealed that Sargassum spp., a genus of brown algae in the family Sargassaceae, has multiple functions in preventing and improving skin aging. Sargassum spp. contains many bioactive compounds, such as fucoidan, fucoxanthin, terpenoids, flavonoids, and meroterpenoids. These Sargassum spp. extracts and derivative compounds have excellent potential for skincare, as they exhibit skin health-promoting properties, including antioxidants, anti-inflammation, whitening, skin barrier repair, and moisturizing. Therefore, searching for bioactive compounds in marine resources such as Sargassum spp. could be an attractive approach to preventing and improving skin aging. The current review focused on the various biological abilities of Sargassum extracts or derived compounds for anti-skin aging.

Inhibitory activity of soybean (Glycine max L. Merr.) Cell Culture Extract on tyrosinase activity and melanin formation in alpha-melanocyte stimulating Hormone-Induced B16-F10 melanoma cells

BACKGROUND

Hyperpigmentation, which causes excessive melanin synthesis and accumulation, is an important issue in the cosmetic industry. Since compounds developed against hyperpigmentation often come with side effects such as skin irritation and contact dermatitis, new studies focus on the use of natural agents that have no side effects.

METHODS AND RESULTS

In this study, it was found that the effects of soybean cell culture extract (SCE) on alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) induced melanogenesis in B16-F10 murine melanoma cells. The cells were incubated with SCE for 48 h after treatment with α‑MSH for 24 h to analysis the melanin content, cellular tyrosinase activity, and gene and protein expression. SCE at 1 mg/mL decreased melanin content and tyrosinase activity by 34% and 24%, respectively, compared to the α-MSH-treated group, which did not decrease cell viability. In addition, SCE (1 mg/mL) downregulated the expression of tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) genes 1.5-, 1.5-, 2-, and 2-fold, respectively. Furthermore, SCE inhibited the expression of TYR, TRP1, and TRP2 by decreasing the expression of MITF, as shown in a western blot assay.

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that SCE reveals dose-dependent inhibition of melanin synthesis through the suppression of tyrosinase activity as well as molecular levels of TYR, TRP1, TRP2, and MITF in B16-F10 murine melanoma cells. Therefore, SCE has the potential to be an effective and natural skin-whitening agent for application in the cosmetic industry.

Design of melanogenesis regulatory peptides derived from phycocyanin of the microalgae Spirulina platensis

Pigmentation issues are common conditions associated with excessive or insufficient production of melanin. Recently peptides are investigated to discover novel melanogenesis regulators as low molecular weight compounds to regulate skin pigmentation. In this study, an internal library of peptides obtained through in silico enzymatic digestion of phycocyanin from microalgae S. platensis was tested to apprehend their anti-melanogenic effects. Seven peptides were investigated for their inhibitory potential against mushroom and B16-F10 murine tyrosinase enzymes. According to the results, P5 (SPSWY) and P7 (AADQRGKDKCARDIGY) were effective in lowering the activity of mushroom and B16-F10 tyrosinases. P5 was the most potent (IC₅₀ value, 12.1 µM) in mushroom which was followed by P2 (MAACLR, 86.9 µM). Although the peptides were particularly powerful in inhibiting monophenolase activity, only moderate inhibition was observed for diphenolase activity in mushroom tyrosinase assay. Apart from tyrosinase inhibition, P2 and P3 (RCLNGRL) were efficient DPPH radical scavengers at low concentrations (IC₅₀ < 200 µM). In the mammalian assay system, P5 and P7 were noticeably effective to decrease tyrosinase enzyme activity with IC₅₀ values of 48.9 and 34.2 µM, respectively. However, although P4 (RYVTYAVF) was a potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor, it increased melanin synthesis up to 3-fold in B16-F10 cells. The results indicate that C-terminal tyrosine residue is important for tyrosinase inhibition. This study shows, for the first time, that microalgae proteins can be regarded as sources for melanogenesis regulation.

Effects of different extraction methods on contents, profiles, and antioxidant abilities of free and bound phenolics of Sargassum polycystum from the South China Sea

Total phenolic content (TPC), phenolic profiles, and antioxidant activity of free and bound extracts of Sargassum polycystum, obtained by different extraction solvents and hydrolysis methods, were investigated. Aqueous acetone afforded the highest free TPC and antioxidant ability, followed by aqueous ethanol and aqueous methanol. Twelve free phenolic compounds were identified by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS), including two hydroxycinnamic acids, seven flavonoids, one stilbene, and two phlorotannins. Three to nine different free phenolic compounds were extracted by these solvents with different compositions, including nine by 70% acetone and eight by 70% methanol, 70% ethanol, and 50% ethanol. The highest total content of free phenolic compounds determined by high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection was obtained from 70% ethanol. Alkaline hydrolysis afforded higher bound TPC (274.27 mg GAE/100 g DW) and antioxidant ability than acid hydrolysis. Five bound phenolic compounds were characterized by UHPLC-MS and five were released from alkaline hydrolysis, whereas two were released from acid hydrolysis. Total content of bound phenolic compounds released by alkaline hydrolysis was 14.68-fold higher than that by acid hydrolysis. The free and bound TPC, phenolic profiles, and antioxidant activities depended on the extraction solvent used. These results indicate that S. polycystum is a potentially useful antioxidant source and contribute to the development of seaweed-based functional foods. PRACTICAL APPLICATION: Phenolics are usually divided into free and bound forms based on their extractability and interaction with cell wall components. The nutritional effects of bound phenolics in algae have long been neglected. These topics contribute to the development of seaweed-based functional foods.

Pterostilbene Inhibits the Melanogenesis Activity in UVB-Irradiated B164A5 Cells

Pterostilbene is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. However, its chemopreventive effects via anti-tyrosinase activity and inhibitory effects on melanin content have not been reported previously. Hence, this study aimed to investigate the anti-melanogenic activity of pterostilbene on UVB-irradiated B164A5 mouse melanoma cells. The effects of pterostilbene and resveratrol on cell viability were determined by MTT assay, whereas melanin content and tyrosinase assay were employed to assess melanogenesis activity. Western blot analysis was performed to determine the tyrosinase expression. Based on the MTT assay, the IC₅₀ value of pterostilbene on UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells was 34.0 ± 3.43 μM, in comparison to resveratrol (>100 μM). Next, 5 and 10 μM pterostilbene showed a significant dose-dependent inhibition (P < .01) of tyrosinase activity in UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells at 37.14 ± 2.71% and 58.36 ± 6.8%, respectively. The findings from the tyrosinase assay also confirmed the downregulation of tyrosinase expression in UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells as measured by Western blot analysis. Finally, 10 μM pterostilbene showed a significantly decreased melanin content (P < .01) in UVB-irradiated B164A5 cells, at 27.34 ± .98 μg/mL. In conclusion, pterostilbene showed anti-melanogenic activity that was 10 times more potent than resveratrol in the UVB-irradiated B164A5 cell.

In vitro anti-melanogenic effect of Perilla frutescens leaf extracts

Introduction: Perilla frutescens (L.) Britt leaves contain various phenolic compounds, especially flavonoids, which potentially inhibit tyrosinase, the key enzyme catalyzing the melanin synthesis pathway. This work aimed to investigate the anti-melanogenic effect of Perilla frutescens extracts through the inhibition of non-cellular as well as cellular tyrosinase activities. Methods: The total extract from Perilla frutescens leaves was obtained by percolation method with 50% ethanol followed by liquid–liquid partition with ethyl acetate (EA) and chloroform (CF) to obtain the EA, CF and EA/CF extracts. The mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory effect of the obtained extracts was screened by dopachrome formation reactions from its substrate 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine. The extracts with potential activity were further evaluated for the anti-melanogenic effects in the B16F10 melanoma cell line. Results: EA and EA/CF extracts significantly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity with the IC50s of 0.14 and 0.07 mg/mL, respectively, in the same range of that from kojic acid (0.12 mg/mL). Consistently, in B16F10 cells, these extracts inhibited tyrosinase enzyme; their IC50 values were 2 times lower than that of kojic acid. Moreover, both EA and EA/CF extracts remarkably reduced melanin levels in a concentration-dependent manner. Conclusion: The EA and EA/CF extracts from Perilla frutescens leaves were able to inhibit melanogenesis by reducing tyrosinase activity.

A Study on the Fabrication of an Effective Natural Substance Based on Schisandra chinensis Extracted Fermentation

PURPOSE

In this study, a high-efficiency Schisandra chinensis extract (SCE) produced by the fermentation of effective microorganisms (EM) was used as an antioxidant material in preparing cosmetic products.

SUBJECTS AND METHODS

We conducted the study by extracting S. chinensis via EM fermentation to increase the efficiency. Tyrosinase inhibitory factor analysis, pH, and thermal stability were measured to verify the properties of the prepared products.

RESULTS

The efficacy and whitening effects of the prepared substances were verified using tyrosinase inhibitory factor analysis. As a result, it was found that both the SCE and SCE fermentation (SCEF) exhibited high, naturally originating, antioxidation ability. In addition, the pH and thermal stability of the substances were evaluated to optimize the cosmetic fabrication conditions. In this context, as the concentration of the added extract increased, the pH value decreased. The evaluation of safety and stability indicated that the substances contained effective chemical components having antioxidant activity, suppressing skin aging, and whitening effects in a weak acid range consistent with a pH of 6.25-2.98. Furthermore, there were no safety problems with the use of the obtained products even after they had been stored for 60 days.

CONCLUSION

The SCE substance is demonstrated as a possible material for cosmetic application.

Extracellular Vesicles from Korean Codium fragile and Sargassum fusiforme Negatively Regulate Melanin Synthesis

Although various marine ingredients have been exploited for the development of cosmetic products, no previous study has examined the potential of seaweed extracellular vesicles (EV) in such applications. Our results revealed that EV from Codium fragile and Sargassum fusiforme effectively decreased α-MSH-mediated melanin synthesis in MNT-1 human melanoma cells, associated with downregulation of MITF (microphthalmia-associated transcription factor), tyrosinase and TRP1 (tyrosinase-related proteins 1). The most effective inhibitory concentrations of EV were 250 μg/ml for S. fusiforme and 25 μg/ml for C. fragile, without affecting the viability of MNT-1 cells. Both EV reduced melanin synthesis in the epidermal basal layer of a three-dimensional model of human epidermis. Moreover, the application of the prototype cream containing C. fragile EV (final 5 μg/ml) yielded 1.31% improvement in skin brightness in a clinical trial. Together, these results suggest that EV from C. fragile and S. fusiforme reduce melanin synthesis and may be potential therapeutic and/or supplementary whitening agents.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Seaweed-Based Molecules and Their Potential Biological Activities: An Eco-Sustainable Cosmetics

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol inhibits melanogenesis via protein kinase A/cAMP response element-binding protein and extracellular signal-regulated kinase-mediated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor downregulation in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol (DPHC) is a marine polyphenolic compound derived from brown alga Ishige okamurae. A previously study has suggested that DPHC possesses strong mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. However, the anti-melanogenesis effect of DPHC has not been reported at cellular level. The objective of the present study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effect of DPHC and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10) and zebrafish model. DPHC significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content dose-dependently in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. This polyphenolic compound also suppressed the expression of phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) by attenuating phosphorylation of cAMP-dependent protein kinase A, resulting in decreased MITF expression levels. Furthermore, DPHC downregulated MITF protein expression levels by promoting the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase. It also inhibited tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH stimulated B16F10 cells. In in vivo studies using zebrafish, DPHC also markedly inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. These results demonstrate that DPHC can effectively inhibit melanogenesis in melanoma cells in vitro and in zebrafish in vivo, suggesting that DPHC could be applied in fields of pharmaceutical and cosmeceuticals as a skin-whitening agent. Significance of study: The present study showed for the first time that DPHC could inhibit a-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis via PKA/CREB and ERK pathway in melanoma cells. It also could inhibit pigmentation in vivo in a zebrafish model. This evidence suggests that DPHC has potential as a skin whitening agent. Taken together, DPHC could be considered as a novel anti-melanogenic agent to be applied in cosmetic, food, and medical industry.

CMT-308, a Nonantimicrobial Chemically-Modified Tetracycline, Exhibits Anti-Melanogenic Activity by Suppression of Melanosome Export

CMT-308 is a nonantimicrobial chemically-modified tetracycline (CMT), which we have previously shown exhibits antifungal activity and pleiotropic anti-inflammatory activities, including inhibition of the enzymatic activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Based on its chemical structure, we hypothesized that CMT-308 could inhibit melanogenesis and might be a candidate for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation disorders which occur due to unregulated melanin biosynthesis and/or transport. CMT-308 was first studied for any effects on activity of the enzyme tyrosinase in vitro using a purified preparation of mushroom tyrosinase; the mode of inhibition of the soluble fungal enzyme was evaluated by Lineweaver-Burk and Dixon plots as well as by non-linear least squares fitting. Next, the effects of CMT-308 were tested in mammalian cell cultures using B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and further validated in darkly-pigmented human melanocytes (HEMn-DP). Our results showed that micromolar concentrations of CMT-308 inhibited mushroom tyrosinase enzyme activity, using the first two substrates in the melanogenesis pathway (l-tyrosine and l-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (l-DOPA)); CMT-308 inhibited mushroom tyrosinase primarily via a mixed mode of inhibition, with the major contribution from a competitive mode. In B16F10 cell cultures, CMT-308 (10 µM) significantly diminished total melanin levels with a selective reduction of extracellular melanin levels, under both basal and hormone-stimulated conditions without any cytotoxicity over a duration of 72 h. Studies of potential mechanisms of inhibition of melanogenesis in B16F10 cells showed that, in mammalian cells, CMT-308 did not inhibit intracellular tyrosinase activity or the activity of α-glucosidase, an enzyme that regulates maturation of tyrosinase. However, CMT-308 suppressed MITF protein expression in B16F10 cells and showed copper chelating activity and antioxidant activity in a cell-free system. The significantly lower extracellular melanin levels obtained at 10 µM indicate that CMT-308’s anti-melanogenic action may be attributed to a selective inhibition of melanosome export with the perinuclear aggregation of melanosomes, rather than a direct effect on the tyrosinase-catalyzed steps in melanin biosynthesis. These results were validated in HEMn-DP cells where CMT-308 suppressed dendricity in a fully reversible manner without affecting intracellular melanin synthesis. Furthermore, the capacity of CMT-308 to inhibit melanosome export was retained in cocultures of HEMn-DP and HaCaT. In summary, our results offer promise for therapeutic strategies to combat the effects of hyperpigmentation by use of CMT-308 at low micromolar concentrations.

Melanogenic Inhibition and Toxicity Assessment of Flavokawain A and B on B16/F10 Melanoma Cells and Zebrafish (Danio rerio)

Excessive production of melanin implicates hyperpigmentation disorders. Flavokawain A (FLA) and flavokawain B (FLB) have been reported with anti-melanogenic activity, but their melanogenic inhibition and toxicity effects on the vertebrate model of zebrafish are still unknown. In the present study, cytotoxic as well as melanogenic effects of FLA and FLB on cellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity were evaluated in α-MSH-induced B16/F10 cells. Master regulator of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf) and the other downstream melanogenic-related genes were verified via quantitative real time PCR (qPCR). Toxicity assessment and melanogenesis inhibition on zebrafish model was further observed. FLA and FLB significantly reduced the specific cellular melanin content by 4.3-fold and 9.6-fold decrement, respectively in α-MSH-induced B16/F10 cells. Concomitantly, FLA significantly reduced the specific cellular tyrosinase activity by 7-fold whilst FLB by 9-fold. The decrement of melanin production and tyrosinase activity were correlated with the mRNA suppression of Mitf which in turn down-regulate Tyr, Trp-1 and Trp-2. FLA and FLB exhibited non-toxic effects on the zebrafish model at 25 and 6.25 µM, respectively. Further experiments on the zebrafish model demonstrated successful phenotype-based depigmenting activity of FLA and FLB under induced melanogenesis. To sum up, our findings provide an important first key step for both of the chalcone derivatives to be further studied and developed as potent depigmenting agents.

Thymocid®, a Standardized Black Cumin (Nigella sativa) Seed Extract, Modulates Collagen Cross-Linking, Collagenase and Elastase Activities, and Melanogenesis in Murine B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Black cumin (Nigella sativa) seed extract has been shown to improve dermatological conditions, yet its beneficial effects for skin are not fully elucidated. Herein, Thymocid®, a chemically standardized black cumin seed extract, was investigated for its cosmeceutical potential including anti-aging properties associated with modulation of glycation, collagen cross-linking, and collagenase and elastase activities, as well as antimelanogenic effect in murine melanoma B16F10 cells. Thymocid® (50, 100, and 300 µg/mL) inhibited the formation of advanced glycation end-products (by 16.7-70.7%), collagen cross-linking (by 45.1-93.3%), collagenase activity (by 10.4-92.4%), and elastases activities (type I and III by 25.3-75.4% and 36.0-91.1%, respectively). In addition, Thymocid® (2.5-20 µg/mL) decreased melanin content in B16F10 cells by 42.5-61.6% and reduced cellular tyrosinase activity by 20.9% (at 20 µg/mL). Furthermore, Thymocid® (20 µg/mL for 72 h) markedly suppressed the mRNA expression levels of melanogenesis-related genes including microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1), and TYRP2 to 78.9%, 0.3%, and 0.2%, respectively. Thymocid® (10 µg/mL) also suppressed the protein expression levels of MITF (by 15.2%) and TYRP1 (by 97.7%). Findings from this study support the anti-aging and antimelanogenic potential of Thymocid® as a bioactive cosmeceutical ingredient for skin care products.

Cosmetic potential of lignin extracts from alkaline-treated sugarcane bagasse: Optimization of extraction conditions using response surface methodology

Each year, sugarcane bagasse, a low-priced by-product of the sugar industry, is generated in large quantities. The aim of this study was to optimize the alkaline hydrolysis condition for the extraction of lignin from sugarcane bagasse using response surface methodology combined with Box-Behnken design, and to evaluate functional properties of lignin extracts for cosmetic applications. Three process parameters were varied (NaOH solution concentrations (3-7% w/v), temperatures (115-135 °C), and times (30-60 min)). The second-order polynomial model developed and the subsequent ANOVA test showed that the optimal conditions providing the highest total phenolic content (69.41 ± 0.32 mg gallic acid equivalent/g extract), antioxidant activity (262.30 ± 2.98 mg Trolox equivalent/g extract), and sun protection factor (8.65 ± 0.21) were as follows: NaOH solution concentration of 7% w/v, temperature of 135 °C, and time of 47.92 min. Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy analysis revealed the functional groups present in the lignin extract that affected its activities. The extract showed both UVA and UVB-absorbing properties and tyrosinase-inhibitory properties. The results suggested that the lignin extract obtained from alkaline hydrolysis of sugarcane bagasse has great potential as a bioactive multi-functional ingredient that can offer anti-ageing, sun-protection, and skin-whitening properties for sun care formulations.

Fabrication of Carboxylmethyl Chitosan Nanocarrier via Self-Assembly for Efficient Delivery of Phenylethyl Resorcinol in B16 Cells

Micro-molecular drugs have special advantages to cope with challenging diseases, however their structure, physical and chemical properties, stability, and pharmacodynamics have more requirements for the way they are delivered into the body. Carrier-based drug delivery systems can circumvent many limited factors of drug delivery and increase their bioavailability. In this context, stable drug nanocarriers of alkaline amino acids (arginine, Arg) modified conjugated linoleic acid-carboxymethyl chitosan (CLA-CMCS) conjugate were developed, which could generate supramolecular micelles to effectively encapsulate the tyrosinase inhibitor phenylethyl resorcinol (PR). The resulting CCA-NPs were spherical nanoparticles with a mean size around 175 nm. The 3-(4,5-dimethyl-2-thiazolyl)-2,5-diphenyl-2-H-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay and cellular uptake investigation demonstrated that the CCA-NPs were non-cytotoxic and had excellent cell transport ability. In addition, these CCA-NPs were able to effectively deliver PR and inhibited melanin formation to reduce pigmentation by enhancing cellular uptake. In conclusion, our research indicated that nanocarriers based on self-assembly amphiphilic polymers constituted a promising and effective drug delivery system in hyperpigmentation targeting.

Comparative study on skin protection activity of polyphenol-rich extract and polysaccharide-rich extract from Sargassum vachellianum

Seaweed polyphenols and polysaccharide plays a broad range of biological activity. The objective of the present study was to study and compare the skin protection activity of fucoidan rich polysaccharide extract (SPS) and polyphenol-rich extract (SPP) from the seaweed Sargassum vachellianum. The skin protection activity was analyzed based on their ability to scavenge free radicals such as hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radicals, UV absorption potential, tyrosinase inhibition, moisture preservation, and antibacterial activity. From the results, both SPP and SPS protects the skin from UV damage. SPP showed good free radical scavenging ability, antimicrobial activity against E.coli and S. aureus and effectively absorbed the UVB and UVA rays whereas SPS hardly absorbs the UVA and UVB rays and showed weak free radical scavenging ability and no antimicrobial activity. SPS showed considerable inhibition on tyrosinase (51.21%) and had better moisture absorption (52.1%) and retention (63.24%) abilities than SPP. The results specified that both SPS and SPP have balancing potential on skin protection and suitable combinations of both could act as an active ingredient in cosmetics.

Potential Use of Seaweed Bioactive Compounds in Skincare-A Review

Modern lifestyles have developed new attention on appearance and personal care which attract a huge number of consumers towards cosmetic products. The demand for a skincare product with natural ingredients is rapidly increasing. Seaweeds are major resources for in-demand active compounds with a wide variety of applications. The use of seaweed-derived ingredients in cosmetic products has increased in recent years as many scientific studies have proved the potential skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. This review emphasizes possible skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. The review outlines the mechanism involved in skin problems including hyperpigmentation, premature skin aging, and acne in the first part while the second part focuses on the promising application of seaweeds in skin protection by highlighting the bioactive compound responsible for their bioactivity.

New trends for macroalgal natural products applications

There is a significant interest in the usage of algae in everyday diet because of their positive influence on the gastrointestinal system due to the presence of high amounts of dietary fibres, while the presence of ω-3 fatty acids contributes to the protection of cardiovascular system. Algal derived polysaccharides are found in the food products as stabilisers, thickening agents and emulsifiers. In the cosmetic industry, algae are used in sunscreen, anti-age, anti-cellulite, moisturising and skin whitening products. These products can be used for the development of cosmeceuticals which contain algal derived bioactive compounds and they can exert a pharmaceutical therapeutic benefit. However, these compounds also have potential for being isolated and used for development of novel drugs against diseases, such as cancer, neurodegenerative disorders, and diabetes. Present review provides information about algal compounds incorporated into various food, cosmetic or medicinal products, as well as their potential for health improvement was evaluated.

Investigation on the binding of aloe-emodin with tyrosinase by spectral analysis and molecular docking

In this paper, the inhibitory kinetics of aloe-emodin on the activity of tyrosinase and the inhibitory mechanism have been investigated by using spectroscopic and molecular docking techniques. The results showed that aloe-emodin inhibited tyrosinase activity in a competitive manner. The binding constants, number of binding sites and thermodynamic parameters obtained at different temperature suggested that aloe-emodin spontaneously binds to tyrosinase at one binding site, mainly via electrostatic forces. Analysis by UV-vis absorption (UV), circular dichroism (CD) and molecular docking indicated that aloe-emodin bound directly into the catalytic cavity and that binding of aloe-emodin to tyrosinase induced conformational changes of the enzyme and blocked the catalytic center of the enzyme preventing binding of the substrate, which caused the inhibition of the tyrosinase activity.

Culturing melanocytes and fibroblasts within three-dimensional macroporous PDMS scaffolds: towards skin dressing material

In the present study, we propose a platform for topical wound dressing material using a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) scaffold in order to enhance the skin healing process. In vitro co-culture assessment of epidermal-origin mouse B16-F10 melanocyte cells and mouse L929 fibroblast cells in three-dimensional polymeric scaffolds has been carried out towards developing bio-stable, interconnected, highly macroporous, PDMS based tissue-engineered scaffolds, using the salt leaching method. To determine a suitable ratio of salt to PDMS pre-polymer in the scaffold, two different samples with ratios 2:1 and 3:1 [w/w], were fabricated. Effective pore sizes of both scaffolds were observed to lie in the desirable range of 152-165 μm. In addition, scaffolds were pre-coated with collagen and investigated as a podium for culturing the chosen cells (fibroblast and melanocyte cells). Experimental results demonstrate not only a high proliferative potential of the skin tissue-specific cells within the fabricated PDMS based scaffolds but also confirm the presence of several other essential attributes such as high interconnectivity, optimum porosity, excellent mechanical strength, gaseous permeability, promising cell compatibility, water absorption capability and desired surface wettability. Therefore, scaffolds facilitate a high degree of cellular adhesion while providing a microenvironment necessary for optimal cellular infiltration and viability. Thus, the outcomes suggest that PDMS based macroporous scaffold can be used as a potential candidate for skin dressing material. In addition, the fabricated PDMS scaffolds may also be exploited for a plethora of other applications in tissue engineering and drug delivery.

Melanogenesis Inhibitors from the Rhizoma of Ligusticum Sinense in B16-F10 Melanoma Cells In Vitro and Zebrafish In Vivo

The rhizoma of Ligusticum sinense, a Chinese medicinal plant, has long been used as a cosmetic for the whitening and hydrating of the skin in ancient China. In order to investigate the antimelanogenic components of the rhizoma of L. sinense, we performed an antimelanogenesis assay-guided purification using semi-preparative HPLC accompanied with spectroscopic analysis to determine the active components. Based on the bioassay-guided method, 24 compounds were isolated and identified from the ethyl acetate layer of methanolic extracts of L. sinense, and among these, 5-[3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)allyl]ferulic acid (1) and cis-4-pentylcyclohex-3-ene-1,2-diol (2) were new compounds. All the pure isolates were subjected to antimelanogenesis assay using murine melanoma B16-F10 cells. Compound 1 and (3S,3aR)-neocnidilide (8) exhibited antimelanogenesis activities with IC₅₀ values of 78.9 and 31.1 μM, respectively, without obvious cytotoxicity. Further investigation showed that compound 8 demonstrated significant anti-pigmentation activity on zebrafish embryos (10‒20 μM) compared to arbutin (20 μM), and without any cytotoxicity against normal human epidermal keratinocytes. These findings suggest that (3S,3aR)-neocnidilide (8) is a potent antimelanogenic and non-cytotoxic natural compound and may be developed potentially as a skin-whitening agent for cosmetic uses.

Seaweeds as Source of Bioactive Substances and Skin Care Therapy—Cosmeceuticals, Algotheraphy, and Thalassotherapy

Riverine, estuarine, and coastal populations have always used algae in the development of home remedies that were then used to treat diverse health problems. The empirical knowledge of various generations originated these applications, and their mechanism of action is, in most cases, unknown, that is, few more scientific studies would have been described beyond simple collection and ethnographic recording. Nevertheless, recent investigations, carried out with the purpose of analyzing the components and causes that alter the functioning and the balance of our organism, are already giving their first results. Water, and especially sea water is considered as essential to life on our planet. It sings all the substances necessary and conducive to the development of the living being (minerals, catalysts, vitamins, amino acids, etc.). Oceans cover over 70% of Earth, being home to up to 90% of the organisms in the planet. Many rich resources and unique environments are provided by the ocean. Additionally, bioactive compounds that multiple marine organisms have a great potential to produce can be used as nutraceuticals, pharmaceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Both primary and secondary metabolites are produced by algae. The first ones are directly implicated in development, normal growth, or reproduction conditions to perform physiological functions. Stress conditions, like temperature changes, salinity, environmental pollutants, or UV radiation exposure cause the performance of secondary metabolites. In algae, proteins, polysaccharides, fatty acids, and amino acids are primary metabolites and phenolic compounds, pigments, vitamins, sterols, and other bioactive agents, all produced in algae tissues, are secondary metabolites. These algal active constituents have direct relevance in cosmetics.

Secondary Metabolites and Biological Activity of Invasive Macroalgae of Southern Europe

In this review a brief description of the invasive phenomena associated with algae and its consequences on the ecosystem are presented. Three examples of invasive algae of Southern Europe, belonging to Rodophyta, Chlorophyta, and Phaeophyta, were selected, and a brief description of each genus is presented. A full description of their secondary metabolites and biological activity is given and a summary of the biological activity of extracts is also included. In Asparagopsis we encounter mainly halogenated compounds. From Caulerpa, several terpenoids and alkaloids were isolated, while in Sargassum, meroterpenoids prevail.

Antioxidation and Melanogenesis Inhibition of Various Dendrobium tosaense Extracts

This study investigated the polyphenol content, antioxidant activity, and inhibition ability of mushroom tyrosinase and melanogenesis of Dendrobium tosaense (DT) extract. Ground DT was extracted using deionized water (W) or 50% ethanol (50E) at room temperature (RT) or 50 °C (50T) for 20 min. The 50T + 50E extract exhibited the highest total phenol content 47.0 ± 4.0 mg gallic acid equivalent/g DT extract, the highest level of 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) free-radical scavenging 66.0 ± 3.0 mg Trolox equivalent/g DT extract, and the highest reducing power 12.00 ± 0.50 mg vitamin C equivalent/g DT extract. The RT + W extract had the highest total flavonoid content 110.0 ± 3.0 mg quercetin equivalent/g DT extract. The RT + 50E extract had the lowest half maximal inhibitory concentration 1.30 ± 0.00 mg/mL for 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl free-radical scavenging, and the lowest half maximal inhibitory concentration 6.40 ± 0.30 mg/mL for mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity. DT extracts, especially RT + W and 50T + W, exhibited potent inhibitory effects on melanogenesis of B16/F10 cells. These results demonstrated the application potential of DT extract for skincare.

Anti melanogenic effect of Croton roxburghii and Croton sublyratus leaves in α-MSH stimulated B16F10 cells

Croton roxburghii and Croton sublyratus have been used as skin treatments in traditional medicine. The objective of the present study was to investigate the antimelanogenic effect of ethanol extracts of Croton roxburghii (CRE) and Croton sublyratus (CSE) leaves on cellular melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity as mediated by the action of microthalmia transcription factor (MITF) and melanogenic enzymes. Croton roxburghii and Croton sublyratus leaves were extracted by petroleum ether, dichloromethane and absolute ethanol, sequentially. The ethanolic crude extracts were examined for antimelanogenic activity by their ability to decrease melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells. In addition, the extracts were evaluated to determine a plausible mechanism of melanogenesis suppression through determining the activation of MITF transcription factor and melanogenic proteins (tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 or TRP-1 and tyrosinase-related protein 2 or TRP-2) at the transcriptional and translation levels in α-MSH-induced B16F10 cells. Upon treatment with CRE and CSE, the cells showed significant decreases in melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity. CRE and CSE also suppressed MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2 at the transcription and translation levels in α-MSH-stimulated melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 cells. Our finding shows that CRE and CSE inhibit melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity through suppressing MITF and melanogenic enzymes. CRE and CSE may be useful to combine with skin whitening agents for cosmetic uses.

Effects of volatile oil from ginger on the murine B16 melanoma cells and its mechanism

In this study, the inhibitory effects of volatile oil from ginger on melanogenesis and its antioxidant characteristics were investigated. The effects of volatile oil from ginger on cell proliferation, melanin content and tyrosinase activity were determined using a microplate reader. In addition, the expression of melanogenesis-related protein was determined by western blotting. The results indicate that the tested concentrates of volatile oil from ginger showed inhibitory effects on cell proliferation and melanogenesis. This revealed that volatile oil from ginger exhibited apparent capacities for scavenging ROS and lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, volatile oil from ginger improved the activities of GSH, SOD and CAT in B16 melanoma cells. These results demonstrated that volatile oil from ginger suppressed melanin synthesis through its antioxidant properties and the inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity and melanogensis-related proteins. Hence, volatile oil from ginger could be used as an effective skin-whitening agent applied in food industry.