Modulating effect of fatty acids and sterols on skin aging

Nutritional Dermatology: Optimizing Dietary Choices for Skin Health

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Youthful, smooth skin is highly desired in modern society. Individuals invest in cosmetics, plastic surgeons, and dermatologists in pursuit of perfect skin. However, many do not seek out dietary changes to improve skin health. Although research has been conducted on the role of nutrition and select nutrients and phytonutrients on skin health, there is a lack of healthy food recommendations for clear skin.

METHODS

The literature was assessed to determine which nutrients and phytonutrients play a significant role in the protection and maintenance of skin health. Key compounds were highlighted as there is evidence to suggest they have a significant role in skin health: vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, zinc, omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids, polyphenols/flavonoids, copper, selenium, and silicon. USDA FoodData Central and FooDB (food database), were utilized to select foods and food groups containing the key nutrients and phytonutrients.

RESULTS

A skin-healthy dietary pattern is proposed in addition to a scoring system to assess diet. A sample skin-healthy daily diet was designed, using only whole foods, that met the Daily Values for vitamins and minerals and contained key compounds for skin health.

CONCLUSIONS

There is a clear link between nutrition and skin health, or nutritional dermatology; however, more research needs to be done to find the intersection between both disciplines.

Para rubber seed oil and its fatty acids alleviate photoaging and maintain cell homeostasis

OBJECTIVE

Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging.

METHODS

Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components.

RESULTS

Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones.

CONCLUSION

The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.

Aging and physiological barriers: mechanisms of barrier integrity changes and implications for age-related diseases

The phenomenon of compartmentalization is one of the key traits of life. Biological membranes and histohematic barriers protect the internal environment of the cell and organism from endogenous and exogenous impacts. It is known that the integrity of these barriers decreases with age due to the loss of homeostasis, including age-related gene expression profile changes and the abnormal folding/assembly, crosslinking, and cleavage of barrier-forming macromolecules in addition to morphological changes in cells and tissues. The critical molecular and cellular mechanisms involved in physiological barrier integrity maintenance and aging-associated changes in their functioning are reviewed on different levels: molecular, organelle, cellular, tissue (histohematic, epithelial, and endothelial barriers), and organ one (skin). Biogerontology, which studies physiological barriers in the aspect of age, is still in its infancy; data are being accumulated, but there is no talk of the synthesis of complex theories yet. This paper mainly presents the mechanisms that will become targets of anti-aging therapy only in the future, possibly: pharmacological, cellular, and gene therapies, including potential geroprotectors, hormetins, senomorphic drugs, and senolytics.

Elevated nitrogen fertilization differentially affects jojoba wax phytochemicals, fatty acids and fatty alcohols

Jojoba wax is gaining popularity among cosmetics consumers for its skin wound healing and rejuvenation bioactivities, attributed to collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis. However, information regarding wax phytochemical composition and quality parameters, as well as effect of cultivation practices, and fertilization in particular, on wax quality is limited. The aim of the current work was to study the effect of nitrogen (N) availability to jojoba plants on wax phytochemical composition and beneficial skin-related contents. For this, wax quality from a six-year fertilization experiment with five N application levels was evaluated. The chemical parameters included antioxidant activity, free fatty acid, total tocopherol, total phytosterol and oxidative stability, as well as fatty acid and fatty alcohol profile. Our results reveal that the majority of wax quality traits were affected by N fertilization level, either positively or negatively. Interestingly, while fatty acids were unaffected, fatty alcohol composition was significantly altered by N level. Additionally, fruit load also largely affected wax quality, and, due to jojoba's biennial alternate bearing cycles, harvest year significantly affected all measured parameters. Results shed light on the effects of N application on various biochemical constituents of jojoba wax, and imply that N availability should be considered part of the entire agricultural management plan to enhance wax quality. Some traits are also suggested as possible chemical quality parameters for jojoba wax.

Exploring the wound-healing and antimicrobial potential of Dittrichia viscosa L lipidic extract: Chemical composition and in vivo evaluation

Dittrichia viscosa belongs to the Dittrichia genus, it grows abundantly in the east and northeast of Morocco, and traditionally its fresh leaves are crushed and given for topical application after burns, wounds, and infections. In this study, we examine the wound-healing activity of Dittrichia viscosa lipidic extract in vivo, assess its anti-microbial effect, and explore the specific compounds that contribute to these effects. To assess the effectiveness of wound healing, a burn-induced wound model was employed in Wistar rats, and the levels of hydroxyproline as well as histopathological changes in the skin tissues were evaluated. Furthermore, the antimicrobial potential against Bacillus subtilis, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, Candida glabrata, and Malassezia furfur was investigated using the agar disc diffusion method. Gas Chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) techniques were employed to analyze the composition of fatty acids, phytosterols, and tocopherols. Topical application of Dittrichia viscosa lipidic fraction ointment exhibited significant improvements in wound contraction, achieving an impressive rate of 82% within 21 days. Additionally, the lipidic extract of Dittrichia viscosa displayed notable efficacy against various microbial strains, including Candida albicans (25.07 ± 0.2), Candida glabrata (24 ± 0.6), and Malassezia furfur (22 ± 0.7). The primary fatty acids identified in the sample were linolenic acid (58.95% ± 0), oleic acid (16.75% ±0.04), and linoleic acid (11.97% ± 0.1). Notably, the sample contained significant amounts of γ-Tocopherols (732.08 ± 21mg/kg), while the sterol fraction primarily consisted of 7-Campesterol (1937 ± 0 mg/kg), 7-β-Sitosterol (1621 ± 0 mg/kg), and Stigmasterol (1439 ± 26 mg/kg). By its richness in active compound content, Dittrichia viscosa effectively accelerates wound healing while safeguarding against microbial infections.

Evaluation of Recovery Methods for Fragaria vesca L. Oil: Characteristics, Stability and Bioactive Potential

Wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca L.) seed oil (WSO) recovered by two methods-cold pressing (CP) and extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide (SCO₂E)-taking into account the different extraction times, was characterized for its composition and quality. The cytotoxicity assessment of WSOs was also carried out using the normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cell line. Tocopherol and total polyphenol contents were significantly higher in WSO recovered by SCO₂E, up to 1901.0 and 58.5 mg/kg, respectively, in comparison with CP oil. In CP oil, the highest content of carotenoids and squalene was determined (123.8 and 31.4 mg/kg, respectively). Phytosterol summed up to 5396 mg/kg in WSO collected in 30 min of SCO₂E. Moreover, the highest oxidative stability was found for this oil. All studied WSOs were non-cytotoxic in lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) leaching and sulforhodamine B (SRB) assays; however, oils collected by SCO₂E in 15 and 30 min were found to be cytotoxic in the tetrazolium salt (MTT) test, with the CC₅₀ at a concentration of 3.4 and 5.5%, respectively. In conclusion, the composition of WSO indicates that, depending on the method of its recovery, seeds can have different bio-potencies and various applications.

Transcriptome analysis of five different tissues of bitter gourd (Momordica charantia L.) fruit identifies full-length genes involved in seed oil biosynthesis

The bitter gourd seed oil, rich in conjugated fatty acids, has therapeutic value to treat cancer, obesity, and aging. It also has an industrial application as a drying agent. Despite its significance, genomics studies are limited, and the genes for seed oil biosynthesis are not fully understood. In this study, we assembled the fruit transcriptome of bitter gourd using 254.5 million reads (Phred score > 30) from the green rind, white rind, pulp, immature seeds, and mature seeds. It consisted of 125,566 transcripts with N50 value 2,751 bp, mean length 960 bp, and 84% completeness. Transcript assembly was validated by RT-PCR and qRT-PCR analysis of a few selected transcripts. The transcripts were annotated against the NCBI non-redundant database using the BLASTX tool (E-value < 1E−05). In gene ontology terms, 99,443, 86,681, and 82,954 transcripts were classified under biological process, molecular function, and cellular component. From the fruit transcriptome, we identified 26, 3, and 10 full-length genes coding for all the enzymes required for synthesizing fatty acids, conjugated fatty acids, and triacylglycerol. The transcriptome, transcripts with tissue-specific expression patterns, and the full-length identified from this study will serve as an important genomics resource for this important medicinal plant.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Potential opportunities of thinned clusters in viticulture: a mini review

Crop thinning is a common practice performed in the vineyard consisting of whole clusters or individual fruits being removed after flowering is attained. Current studies have reported that unripe grape products as verjuice and sour grape sauce contain high content of bioactive compounds such as polyphenols, sugars, organic acids, nitrogenous compounds and sterols. This mini-review overviewed the bioactive components obtained from thinned unripe grapes such as phenolic compounds, sugars, organic acids, minerals, nitrogen compounds and sterols, and their use as antibrowning and whitening agents, natural catalysts, food preservative and food additive. In addition, their beneficial effects for human health also were reviewed, as well as the practices to maximize the extraction of antioxidant compounds. Therefore, revalorizing the waste from this management practice in viticulture can increase the vineyard sustainability and farmers' economic profits. © 2021 Society of Chemical Industry.

Bioactive compounds, health benefits and functional food products of sea buckthorn: a review

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.), which has been categorized as a "medicine food homology" fruit by China's National Health Commission for both nutritional and medicinal purposes, has nearly 200 kinds of nutritive and bioactive compounds such as polyunsaturated fatty acids, carotenoids, sugar alcohols, superoxide dismutase and phytosterols. Significant bioactivity, including cardiovascular improvement, antidiabetic and anti-obesity activity, have highlighted the application of sea buckthorn. This review compiled a database of the phytochemical compounds in sea buckthorn, which contains the contents of 106 nutrients and 74 bioactive compounds. The health benefits of sea buckthorn and its extracts were summarized and the mechanism of anti-oxidation and anti-inflammation were introduced in detail. Seventeen common marketed products of sea buckthorn from 8 countries were collected. A future scope is really needed to explore the mechanism of sea buckthorn bioactive compounds along with the incorporation cost-effective functional food products.

Continued post-retraction citation of a fraudulent clinical trial report, 11 years after it was retracted for falsifying data

This paper presents a case study of long-term post-retraction citation to falsified clinical trial data (Matsuyama et al. in Chest 128(6):3817–3827, 2005. 10.1378/chest.128.6.3817), demonstrating problems with how the current digital library environment communicates retraction status. Eleven years after its retraction, the paper continues to be cited positively and uncritically to support a medical nutrition intervention, without mention of its 2008 retraction for falsifying data. To date no high quality clinical trials reporting on the efficacy of omega-3 fatty acids on reducing inflammatory markers have been published. Our paper uses network analysis, citation context analysis, and retraction status visibility analysis to illustrate the potential for extended propagation of misinformation over a citation network, updating and extending a case study of the first 6 years of post-retraction citation (Fulton et al. in Publications 3(1):7–26, 2015. 10.3390/publications3010017). The current study covers 148 direct citations from 2006 through 2019 and their 2542 second-generation citations and assesses retraction status visibility of the case study paper and its retraction notice on 12 digital platforms as of 2020. The retraction is not mentioned in 96% (107/112) of direct post-retraction citations for which we were able to conduct citation context analysis. Over 41% (44/107) of direct post-retraction citations that do not mention the retraction describe the case study paper in detail, giving a risk of diffusing misinformation from the case paper. We analyze 152 second-generation citations to the most recent 35 direct citations (2010–2019) that do not mention the retraction but do mention methods or results of the case paper, finding 23 possible diffusions of misinformation from these non-direct citations to the case paper. Link resolving errors from databases show a significant challenge in a reader reaching the retraction notice via a database search. Only 1/8 databases (and 1/9 database records) consistently resolved the retraction notice to its full-text correctly in our tests. Although limited to evaluation of a single case (N = 1), this work demonstrates how retracted research can continue to spread and how the current information environment contributes to this problem.

Chemistry, oxidative stability and bioactivity of oil extracted from Rosa rugosa (Thunb.) seeds by supercritical carbon dioxide

Rosa rugosa Thunb. seed oil (RR) extracted by supercritical CO₂ was investigated. RR chemical composition, radical scavenging effect and oxidative stability were evaluated. RR aqueous emulsions were examined for cell cytotoxicity, proliferation, redox state and migration using mouse embryonic fibroblast Balb/3T3, human dermal fibroblast NHDF cell lines, and on neoplastic cell lines: acute monocytic leukemia THP-1 and lung adenocarcinoma A549. RR total contents of phytosterols, tocopherols, carotenoids and phenolics were 10115.23, 784.16, 40.32 and 10.30 mg/kg, respectively. Rich antioxidant composition of RR was reflected in its high antioxidant activity (2.1 mM/kg Trolox equivalent) as well as oxidative stability (activation energy 105.6 kJ/mol). The RR emulsions led to marked augmentation of the total cell protein content in BALB/3T3 and NHDF cultures, inhibited cancer cell migration and reduced ROS formation. The studied RR oil proved to have a remarkable combination of bioactive compounds and to exert an antioxidative and chemopreventive effects.

Diet and Skin Aging-From the Perspective of Food Nutrition

We regularly face primary challenges in deciding what to eat to maintain young and healthy skin, defining a healthy diet and the role of diet in aging. The topic that currently attracts maximum attention is ways to maintain healthy skin and delay skin aging. Skin is the primary barrier that protects the body from external aggressions. Skin aging is a complex biological process, categorized as chronological aging and photo-aging, and is affected by internal factors and external factors. With the rapid breakthrough of medicine in prolonging human life and the rapid deterioration of environmental conditions, it has become urgent to find safe and effective methods to treat skin aging. For diet, as the main way for the body to obtain energy and nutrients, people have gradually realized its importance to the skin. Therefore, in this review, we discuss the skin structure, aging manifestations, and possible mechanisms, summarize the research progress, challenges, possible directions of diet management, and effects of foodborne antioxidants on skin aging from the perspective of food and nutrition.

Natural anti-aging skincare: role and potential

The deterioration of the skin morphology and physiology is the first and earliest obvious harbinger of the aging process which is progressively manifested with increasing age. Such deterioration affects the vital functions of the skin such as homeodynamic regulation of body temperature, fluid balance, loss of electrolytes and proteins, production of vitamin D, waste removal, immune surveillance, sensory perception, and protection of other organs against deleterious environmental factors. There are, however, harmful chemicals and toxins found in everyday cosmetics that consumers are now aware of. Thus, the natural beauty industry is on the rise with innovative technology and high-performance ingredients as more consumers demand healthier options. Therefore, the aims of this review are to give some critical insights to the effects of both intrinsic and extrinsic factors on excessive or premature skin aging and to elaborate on the relevance of natural beauty and natural anti-aging skincare approaches that will help consumers, scientists and entrepreneurs make the switch. Our recent investigations have shown the potential and relevance of identifying more resources from our rich natural heritage from various plant sources such as leaves, fruits, pomace, seeds, flowers, twigs and so on which can be explored for natural anti-aging skincare product formulations. These trending narratives have started to gain traction among researchers and consumers owing to the sustainability concern and impact of synthetic ingredients on human health and the environment. The natural anti-aging ingredients, which basically follow hormetic pathways, are potentially useful as moisturizing agents; barrier repair agents; antioxidants, vitamins, hydroxy acids, skin lightening agents, anti-inflammatory ingredients, and sunblock ingredients.

The dietary c9,t11-conjugated linoleic acid enriched from butter reduces breast cancer progression in vivo

The c9,t11-conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), which is the minor polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) naturally present in butter, has gained attention due to its important preventive effect against breast cancer in vitro. In this paper, the enrichment of c9,t11-CLA from butter was optimized and the preventive effect of dietary c9,t11-CLA against breast cancer in vivo was investigated. Results showed that the concentration of c9,t11-CLA increased more than 10 times via a one-step urea complexation. Furthermore, the dietary c9,t11-CLA showed obvious preventive effect against breast cancer in decreasing the tumor weight and volume, and reducing the tumor incidence up to 50%. In addition, the expression of progesterone receptor and Ki-67 decreased significantly with the treatment of c9,t11-CLA. In conclusion, the dietary c9,t11-CLA enriched from butter showed a preventive effect against breast cancer in vivo via the inhibition of the hormonal receptor and cell proliferation. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: This paper provided new insight into the preparation of specific c9,t11-CLA isomer. It can be enriched from butter in large-scale with low-cost by urea complexation. Meanwhile, the enriched dietary c9,t11-CLA can be further processed into cancer prevention functional foods.

Development and Characterization of New Topical Hydrogels Based on Alpha Lipoic Acid—Hydrotalcite Hybrids

Alpha lipoic acid (ALA) is a well-known anti-aging compound. The activity of this molecule is limited by two important factors: (i) The low stability to oxidation and thermal processes and (ii) the low solubility. Particularly the latter limits ALA formulation in hydrophilic bases. The purpose of this paper is to present a new technological approach to stabilize lipoic acid in topical hydrogels for cosmetic use. With this aim, ALA was intercalated in two different lamellar anionic clays (hydrotalcites), MgAl and ZnAl, obtaining the hybrids MgAl-ALA and ZnAl-ALA. The intercalation allows to obtain a more manageable product in comparison to raw ALA. After the preliminary characterization, hydrogels containing the hybrids were prepared and characterized, also in comparison to the commercial product Tiobec® in terms of rheological properties, stability to temperature and centrifugation, release, and cytotoxicity. The obtained results highlighted that the hydrogel containing MgAl-ALA is a suitable alternative to the products currently available on the market.