UV-Filter combinations under UV-A exposure: Concomitant quantification of over-all spectral stability and molecular integrity

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443)

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection "in vitro" is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.

Ultrafast excited-state energy dissipation pathway of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) via the nanoparticles

The organic UVA filter is popularized in sunscreen cosmetics due to the advantages of excellent light stability and high molar extinction coefficient. However, the poor water solubility of organic UV filters has been a common problem. Given that nanoparticles (NPs) can significantly improve the water solubility of organic chemicals. Meanwhile, the excited-state relaxation pathways of NPs might differ from their solution. Here, the NPs of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), a popular organic UVA filter, were prepared by an advanced ultrasonic micro-flow reactor. The surfactant (sodium dodecyl sulfate) was selected as an effective stabilizer to prevent the self-aggregation of the NPs for DHHB. Femtosecond transient ultrafast spectroscopy (fs-TA) and theoretical calculations were utilized to trace and explain the excited-state evolution of DHHB in NPs suspension and its solution. The results reveal that the surfactant-stabilized NPs of DHHB reserve a similarly good performance of ultrafast excited-state relaxation. The stability characterization experiments demonstrate that the strategy of surfactant-stabilized NPs for sunscreen chemicals can maintain its stability and enhance the water solubility of DHHB compared with that of the solution phase. Therefore, the surfactant-stabilized NPs of organic UV filters are an effective method to improve water solubility and keep the stability from aggregation and photoexcitation.

Synthesis and characterisation of novel composite sunscreens containing both avobenzone and octocrylene motifs

Avobenzone and octocrylene are popular sunscreen active ingredients. Experiments that probe the stability of avobenzone in binary mixtures with octocrylene are presented, together with the synthesis of a class of novel composite sunscreens that were designed by covalently linking avobenzone and octocrylene groups. Spectroscopy, both steady-state and time-resolved, of the fused molecules was performed to investigate the stability of the new molecules and their potential function as ultraviolet filters. Computational results are detailed for truncated versions of a subset of the molecules to reveal the energy states underlying the absorption processes of this new class of sunscreen. The results indicate that the combination of elements of the two sunscreen molecules into one molecule creates a derivative with good stability to UV light in ethanol and in which the main degradation pathway of the avobenzone component in acetonitrile is reduced. Derivatives containing p-chloro substituents are particularly stable to UV light.

Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model

The nutritional and health properties of algae make them perfect functional ingredients for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In this study, the Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin (Phaeodactylaceae), a pleiomorphic diatom commonly found in marine ecosystems, was investigated. The in vitro culture conditions used favoured the fusiform morphotype, characterized by a high accumulation of neutral lipids, as detected by fluorescence microscopy after BODIPY staining. These data were confirmed by HPLC-DAD-APCI-MS/MS analyses carried out on the ethanolic extract (PTE), which showed a high content of xanthophylls (98.99%), and in particular of fucoxanthin (Fx, 6.67 g/100 g PTE). The antioxidant activity (ORAC, FRAP, TEAC and β-carotene bleaching) and photostability of PTE and Fx against UVA and UVB rays were firstly evaluated by in vitro cell-free assays. After this, phototoxicity and photoprotective studies were carried out on in vitro reconstructed human epidermidis models. Results demonstrated that PTE (0.1% Fx) and 0.1% Fx, both photostable, significantly (p < 0.05) reduce oxidative and inflammatory stress markers (ROS, NO and IL-1α), as well as cytotoxicity and sunburn cells induced by UVA and UVB doses simulating the solar radiation, with an excellent safety profile. However, PTE proved to be more effective than Fx, suggesting its effective and safe use in broad-spectrum sunscreens.

Use of Natural Agents and Agrifood Wastes for the Treatment of Skin Photoaging

Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays. The harmful effects of UV rays-from the sun or from artificial sources-alter normal skin structures and cause visible damage, especially in the most exposed areas. Fighting premature aging is one of the most important challenges of the medical landscape. Additionally, consumers are looking for care products that offer multiple benefits with reduced environmental and economic impact. The growing requests for bioactive compounds from aromatic plants for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications have to find new sustainable methods to increase the effectiveness of new active formulations derived from eco-compatible technologies. The principle of sustainable practices and the circular economy favor the use of bioactive components derived from recycled biomass. The guidelines of the European Commission support the reuse of various types of organic biomass and organic waste, thus transforming waste management problems into economic opportunities. This review aims to elucidate the main mechanisms of photoaging and how these can be managed using natural renewable sources and specific bioactive derivatives, such as humic extracts from recycled organic biomass, as potential new actors in modern medicine.

Enhancement of TRP Gene Expression and UV Absorption by Bioconverted Chestnut Inner Shell Extracts Using Lactiplantibacillus plantarum

In this work, the suppression of tyrosinase-related genes, including an improvement in UV absorption effects of bioconverted CS extracts (BCS), was investigated to improve the skin-whitening effect. Total polyphenols and total flavonoids, which are bioactive components, increased 2.6- and 5.4-times in bioconversion using Lactiplantibacillus plantarum SM4, respectively, as compared to ultrasound-assisted extracts (UCS). The effect of BCS on radical scavenging activity, UV-A absorption, and tyrosinase activity inhibition, contributing to skin-whitening, were 1.3-, 1.2-, and 1.2-times higher than those of UCS, respectively. The main component identified in high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was gallic acid in both UCS and BCS, which increased by 2.9-times following bioconversion. The gene expression of tyrosinase-related proteins, including TRP-1 and TRP-2 genes, was studied to confirm the suppression of melanin synthesis by BCS in order to identify the skin-whitening mechanism, and BCS decreased both genes’ expression by 1.7- and 1.6-times, demonstrating that BCS effectively suppressed melanin synthesis. These findings imply that the chestnut inner shell can be employed as a cosmetic material by simultaneously inhibiting melanogenesis and enhancing UV-A absorption through bioconversion using L. plantarum SM4.

Review of the environmental fate and effects of two UV filter substances used in cosmetic products

Sunscreens containing UV filters, such as octocrylene (OCR) and butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), have been increasingly used to protect human skin against UV radiation. Both substances have been detected in monitoring studies in the freshwater and marine environment, and there has been concern about potential effects on aquatic organisms. In the present work, the environmental fate and occurrence, bioaccumulation and ecotoxicity including endocrine effects of OCR and BMDBM are reviewed focusing on the aquatic environment. The two UV filters have low water solubilities and a high sorption potential. The available data indicate that OCR is poorly biodegradable. BMDBM lacks anaerobic and inherent biodegradability. However, it was biodegraded to variable degrees in simulation studies. Measured concentrations in the freshwater and marine environment were found to vary considerably between sites, depending on the extent of recreational activities or wastewater discharges. While the bioconcentration factor of OCR in fish is below the threshold value for bioaccumulation according to EU REACH, the available data for BMDBM do not allow a definitive conclusion on its bioaccumulation potential. Analysis of the aquatic toxicity data showed that data quality was often limited, e.g. in the case of effect concentrations substantially exceeding maximum achievable dissolved concentrations. Up to their limit of water solubility, OCR and BMDBM showed no toxicity to microorganisms, algae, and corals, and no acute toxicity to daphnids and fish. In chronic daphnid tests, OCR was highly toxic, whereas BMDBM lacked toxicity. Reliable water-sediment toxicity tests are required to further evaluate possible effects on benthic invertebrates. The available data do not provide evidence for endocrine effects of the two UV filters on fish. In order to assess potential environmental risks caused by OCR and BMDBM, a validated exposure model for estimating direct emission of UV filters into the aquatic environment and data from systematic, longer-term monitoring studies are needed.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

Fucoxanthin possesses a well-described antioxidant activity that might be useful for human skin photoprotection. However, there is a lack of scientific information regarding its properties when applied onto human skin. Thus, the objective of the present study was to assess the photoprotective and phototoxicity potential of fucoxanthin based on its ultraviolet (UVB 280–320 nm; UVA 320–400 nm) and visible (VIS 400–700 nm) absorption, photostability, phototoxicity in 3T3 mouse fibroblast culture vs. full-thickness reconstructed human skin (RHS), and its ability to inhibit reactive oxygen species formation that is induced by UVA on HaCaT keratinocytes. Later, we evaluated the antioxidant properties of the sunscreen formulation plus 0.5% fucoxanthin onto RHS to confirm its bioavailability and antioxidant potential through the skin layers. The compound was isolated from the alga Desmarestia anceps. Fucoxanthin, despite presenting chemical photo-instability (dose 6 J/cm²: 35% UVA and 21% VIS absorbance reduction), showed acceptable photodegradation (dose 27.5 J/cm²: 5.8% UVB and 12.5% UVA absorbance reduction) when it was added to a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v). In addition, it increased by 72% of the total sunscreen UV absorption spectra, presenting UV-booster properties. Fucoxanthin presented phototoxic potential in 3T3 fibroblasts (mean photo effect 0.917), but it was non-phototoxic in the RHS model due to barrier function that was provided by the stratum corneum. In addition, it showed a significant inhibition of ROS formation at 0.01% (p < 0.001), in HaCat, and in a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v) (p < 0.001), in RHS. In conclusion, in vitro results showed fucoxanthin protective potential to the skin that might contribute to improving the photoprotective potential of sunscreens in vivo.

Photostability of Terbinafine Under UVA Irradiation: The Effect of UV Absorbers

The photostability of drugs administered topically on unprotected skin is a complex phenomenon that could be connected with the loss of activity or, rather rarely, the occurrence of toxic degradation products. In this study, an in-depth investigation of the photostability of terbinafine, in both solutions and formulations, was conducted, taking into account the presence of UV absorbers such as TiO₂ , ZnO, avobenzone, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, octocrylene, benzophenone-1 and benzophenone-2. The clear photocatalytic degradation of terbinafine in ethanol solution was observed in the presence of TiO₂ and/or ZnO. In other cases, terbinafine was stable, with the exception of, in the presence of octocrylene. The presumed degradation products of terbinafine were identified for the first time using LC/MS/MS, and transformation pathways were proposed. In the case of a cream formulation, the percentage of initial terbinafine content was almost unchanged in the presence of the UV absorbers benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2 and 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor. In vitro cytotoxicity risk assessment of terbinafine based on photostability under UVA irradiation was evaluated using the human skin fibroblast BJ (ATCC^® CRL-2522™), and this showed no statistically significant difference in cell viability for all samples analyzed.

Synthesis, Spectra, and Theoretical Investigations of 1,3,5-Triazines Compounds as Ultraviolet Rays Absorber Based on Time-Dependent Density Functional Calculations and three-Dimensional Quantitative Structure-Property Relationship

A series of 1,3,5-triazines were synthesized and their UV absorption properties were tested. The computational chemistry methods were used to construct quantitative structure-property relationship (QSPR), which was used to computer aided design of new 1,3,5-triazines ultraviolet rays absorber compounds. The experimental UV absorption data are in good agreement with those predicted data using the Time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) [B3LYP/6-311 + G(d,p)]. A suitable forecasting model (R > 0.8, P < 0.0001) was revealed. Predictive three-dimensional quantitative structure-property relationship (3D-QSPR) model was established using multifit molecular alignment rule of Sybyl program, which conclusion is consistent with the TD-DFT calculation. The exceptional photostability mechanism of such ultraviolet rays absorber compounds was studied and confirmed as principally banked upon their ability to undergo excited-state deactivation via an ultrafast excited-state proton transfer (ESIPT). The intramolecular hydrogen bond (IMHB) of 1,3,5-triazines compounds is the basis for the excited state proton transfer, which was explored by IR spectroscopy, UV spectra, structural and energetic aspects of different conformers and frontier molecular orbitals analysis.

Photoprotective potential of metabolites isolated from algae-associated fungi Annulohypoxylon stygium

Natural products, or secondary metabolites, obtained from fungal species associated with marine algae have been widely used in sunscreens due to their antioxidant activity and protective potential against solar radiation. The endophytic fungus isolated from Bostrychia radicans algae collected in the Rio Escuro mangrove, São Paulo State, Brazil, Annulohypoxylon stygium (Xylariaceae family) was studied to evaluate the photoprotective potential of its metabolites. The Annulohypoxylon genus can produce secondary metabolites with interesting cytotoxic, antibacterial and antioxidant properties and was never isolated before from a marine alga or had its metabolites studied for UV protection. The fungal culture (code As) extracted with dichloromethane: methanol (2:1) yielded 9 fractions (Asa to Asi) which were submitted to different chromatographic methodologies to obtain pure compounds, and to spectroscopic methodologies to elucidate their structures. Also, a screening was conducted to evaluate the qualitative production of the metabolites, besides the absorption in the UVA/UVB range, their photostability and phototoxicity potential using the 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). This study led to the isolation of a novel compound, 3-benzylidene-2-methylhexahydropyrrolo [1,2-α] pyrazine-1,4-dione (1), from fractions Ase3 and Asf3; Ase1 was identified as 1-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-yl)-1,2-propanediol (2), two metabolites were isolated as diastereomers (1S,2R)-1-phenyl-1,2-propanediol (3) from Asd2 and (1R,2R)-1-phenyl-1,2-propanediol (4) from Asd3, and Ase1 and 1,3-benzodioxole-5-methanol (5) from Asc1. The results obtained showed a great potential source of new molecules to be used as UVB filters in sunscreens, since substances 1-2 presented UVB absorption, had no phototoxic potential and were considered photostable. In conclusion, these compounds can be considered as a potential new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using in vitro methods for topical use. Meanwhile, further efficacy assays shall be conducted for the establishment of their Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Also, this work provided new information concerning the metabolic profile of A. stygium, since it was possible to obtain two enantiomer compounds (3) and (4). One of them belonged to the same skeleton, but with a methylenedioxy moiety, showing the richest enzymatic pattern for this microorganism.

Photophysical properties of hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate (Uvinul A Plus), a UV-A absorber

DHHB (photostable UV-A absorber) may act as a triplet energy donor for OMC (the most widely used UV-B absorber) because the T₁energy of DHHB is higher than that of OMC.

Biobased Nanoparticles for Broadband UV Protection with Photostabilized UV Filters

Sunscreens rely on multiple compounds to provide effective and safe protection against UV radiation. UV filters in sunscreens, in particular, provide broadband UV protection but are heavily linked to adverse health effects due to the generation of carcinogenic skin-damaging reactive oxygen species (ROS) upon solar irradiation. Herein, we demonstrate significant reduction in the ROS concentration by encapsulating an antioxidant photostabilizer with multiple UV filters into biobased ethyl cellulose nanoparticles. The developed nanoparticles display complete broadband UV protection and can form transparent and flexible films. This system therefore shows significant potential toward effective and safe nanoparticle-based UV protective coatings.

Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for confirming the photo-induced generation of dioxin-like derivatives and other cosmetic preservative photoproducts on artificial skin

The stability and photochemical transformations of cosmetic preservatives in topical applications exposed to UV-light is a serious but poorly understood problem. In this study, a high throughput extraction and selective method based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) coupled to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was validated and applied to investigate the photochemical transformation of the antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), as well as the antimicrobials triclosan (TCS) and phenyl benzoate (PhBz) in an artificial skin model. Two sets of photodegradation experiments were performed: (i) UV-Irradiation (8W, 254nm) of artificial skin directly spiked with the target preservatives, and (ii) UV-irradiation of artificial skin after the application of a cosmetic cream fortified with the target compounds. After irradiation, PLE was used to isolate the target preservatives and their transformation products. The follow-up of the photodegradation kinetics of the parent preservatives, the identification of the arising by-products, and the monitorization of their kinetic profiles was performed by GC-MS. The photochemical transformation of triclosan into 2,8-dichloro-dibenzo-p-dioxin (2,8-DCDD) and other dioxin-like photoproducts has been confirmed in this work. Furthermore, seven BHT photoproducts, and three benzophenones as PhBz by-products, have been also identified. These findings reveal the first evidences of cosmetic ingredients phototransformation into unwanted photoproducts on an artificial skin model.

Photostability evaluation of five UV-filters, trans-resveratrol and beta-carotene in sunscreens

Trans-resveratrol (RES) is used in cosmetic formulations and beta-carotene (BTC) is a classical sunscreen antioxidant, but their photostability in sunscreens, a property directly correlated to performance and safety has not been addressed in the literature. This paper reports the assessment of RES and/or BTC influence on the photostability of five UV-filters (octyl methoxycinnamate - OMC, avobenzone -AVO, octocrylene - OCT, bemotrizinole - BMZ, octyltriazone - OTZ) in three different combinations after UVA exposure followed by the identification of degradation products and the assessment of photoreactivity. The evaluation of sunscreen photostability was performed by HPLC and spectrophotometric analysis, and degradation products were identified by GC-MS analysis. Components RES, BTC, OMC and AVO were significantly degraded after UV exposure (reduction of around 16% in recovery). According to HPLC analysis, all formulations presented similar photostability profiles. Eleven degradation products were identified in GC-MS analysis, among them products of RES, BTC, OMC and AVO photodegradation. All evaluated formulations were considered photoreactive, as well as the isolated compounds RES and AVO. Considering HPLC, spectrophotometric and GC-MS results, it is suggested that formulations containing BMZ were considered the most photostable. The combination RES+BTC in a sunscreen improved the photostability of AVO. The benefits of using a combination of antioxidants in sunscreens was demonstrated by showing that using RES+BTC+studied UV-filters led to more photostable formulations, which in turn implies in better safety and efficacy.

Photoexcited triplet states of UV-B absorbers: ethylhexyl triazone and diethylhexylbutamido triazone

The lowest excited triplet state of a UV-B absorber with extremely high molecular extinction, ethylhexyl triazone, can be assigned to a locally excited³ππ* state within a chromophore,p-(N-methylamino)benzoic acid.

Photochemical reactions of halogenated aromatic 1,3-diketones in solution studied by steady state, one- and two-color laser flash photolyses

Photoreactions of 1,3-diketones having halogen atoms at the C2 position are investigated by steady state, one- and two-color laser photolyses and DFT calculation.

Optical and electron paramagnetic resonance studies of the excited triplet states of UV-B absorbers: 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate

UV-B absorbers, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate, show a photoinduced phosphorescence enhancement, which originates from the photoinduced intermolecular hydrogen-bond formation.

Improvement of polyphenol properties upon glucosylation in a UV-induced skin cell ageing model

OBJECTIVE

Polyphenols are strong antioxidant molecules allowing prevention of skin photo-ageing damages, but their use is limited due to low solubility and toxicity towards skin cells. We postulated that enzymatic glucosylation could improve their solubility, stability and, consequently, their efficacy. The aim of this work was to study changes induced by addition of a glucose moiety on two polyphenols displaying very different chemical structures [caffeic acid (CA), epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and there glucosylated form, Glc-CA and Glc-EGCG] by assessing their cytotoxic properties and their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities.

METHODS

Their antioxidant effect was assessed first by the classical DPPH radical-scavenging method. Then, a panel of human skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes, fibroblasts and endothelial cells) was used to evaluate their effect on cell toxicity and their antioxidant activities. With this aim, a photo-ageing model based on UV irradiation of skin cells was established. Molecule activity was assessed on reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, on superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities and, finally, on inflammatory factor production IL-6, IL-8 and IL-1β.

RESULTS

In an acellular model, antioxidant activity assessed by DPPH method was strongly reduced for Glc-CA compared to CA, whereas it remained the same for Glc-EGCG compared to EGCG. Glucosylated derivatives did not display more toxic effect on various skin cells. Moreover, toxicity was even strongly reduced for caffeic acid upon glucosylation. The efficacy of glucosyl-compounds against UV-induced ROS production was preserved, both with pre- and post-UV treatments. Particularly, a better antioxidant efficacy was shown by Glc-EGCG, vs. EGCG, on keratinocytes. In addition, an induction of SOD and catalase activity was clearly observed for Glc-CA. Both glucosyl-polyphenols display the same activity as their parent molecule in decreasing inflammatory factor production.

CONCLUSION

Our results demonstrated that enzymatic glucosylation of CA and EGCG led to an improved or preserved antioxidant activity in a cellular model of UV-induced skin ageing, despite the decrease in instantaneous antioxidant properties observed for Glc-CA. Glc-EGCG is specifically more active on keratinocytes, suggesting a specific targeting. Such glucosylated polyphenols displaying improved physicochemical and biological properties should be better candidates than natural ones for use in food additives and cosmetics.

Photoexcited states of UV absorbers, benzophenone derivatives

The UV absorption, phosphorescence and phosphorescence-excitation spectra of benzophenone (BP) derivatives used as organic UV absorbers have been observed in rigid solutions at 77 K. The triplet-triplet absorption spectra have been observed in acetonitrile at room temperature. The BP derivatives studied are 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (BP-2), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-3), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (BP-6), 5-chloro-2-hydroxybenzophenone (BP-7) and 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone (BP-12). The energy levels and lifetimes of the lowest excited triplet (T1 ) states of these BP derivatives were determined from the first peak of phosphorescence. The time-resolved near-IR emission spectrum of singlet oxygen generated by photosensitization with BP-7 was observed in acetonitrile at room temperature. BP-2, BP-3, BP-6 and BP-12 show photoinduced phosphorescence enhancement in ethanol at 77 K. The possible mechanism of the observed phosphorescence enhancement is discussed. The T1 states of 2-hydroxy-5-methylbenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzophenone and 2,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone have been studied for comparison.

Prevention of UVA-induced oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts by new UV filters, assessed using a novel in vitro experimental system

BACKGROUND

UVA rays present in sunlight are able to reach the dermal skin layer generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) responsible for oxidative damage, alterations in gene expression, DNA damage, leading to cell inflammation, photo-ageing/-carcinogenesis. Sunscreens contain UV filters as active ingredients that absorb/reflect/dissipate UV radiation: their efficiency depends on their spectral profile and photostability which should then be reflected in biological protection of underlying skin.

METHODS

A set of new UV filters was synthesized, and the most photostable one was compared to BMDBM, a widely used UVA filter. Cultured human dermal fibroblasts were exposed to UVA radiation which was filtered by a base cream containing or not UV filters placed above cell culture wells. The endpoints measured were: cell viability (MTT assay), ROS generation (DCFH-DA assay), mitochondrial function (JC-1 assay), DNA integrity (Comet assay) and gene expression (MMP-1, COL1A1) by RT-qPCR.

RESULTS

The new UV filter resulted more efficient than BMDBM in preserving cell viability, mitochondrial functionality and oxidative DNA damage, despite similar inhibition levels of intracellular ROS. Moreover, expression of genes involved in dermal photoageing were positively affected by the filtering action of the tested molecules.

CONCLUSIONS

The experimental model proposed was able to validate the efficacy of the new UV filter, taking into account important cellular events related to UV-induced intracellular oxidative stress, often underestimated in the assessments of these compounds.

GENERAL SIGNIFICANCE

The model may be used to compare the actual biological protection of commercial sunscreens and suncare products aside from their SPF and UVA-PF values.

In vivo and in vitro evaluation of the use of a newly developed melatonin loaded emulsion combined with UV filters as a protective agent against skin irradiation

BACKGROUND

Melatonin has attracted attention because of their high antioxidant and anticarcinogenic activity. Otherwise, the use of sunscreens is recommended for patients after chemotherapy and radiotherapy treatments or to prevent UV radiation-induced skin damages that may result in pre-cancerous and cancerous skin lesions.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the beneficial influence of melatonin in topical sunscreen emulsions combined with three common ultraviolet filters.

METHODS

After the formulation characterization in terms of rheology, stability studies were performed. Release studies let us to evaluate its mechanism of delivery and ex vivo permeation study through human skin, the amount of melatonin retained. The antioxidant activity assay was also carried out, and finally the in vivo photoprotective effect in rats was tested as transepidermal water loss and erythema formation.

RESULTS

The rheological behaviour of formulations was pseudoplastic fluid, all emulsions had good physical stability. Release studies showed a trend of enhancement in melatonin release from emulsions incorporating UV filters and followed a Weibull model. Melatonin permeation was higher from the emulsion containing melatonin combined with a mixture of three ultraviolet filters (MMIX) formulation. Equally this formulation exhibited the highest radical scavenging activity. Finally the photoprotective assay showed that only skin areas treated with this formulation were statistically equivalent to the unirradiated control area.

CONCLUSION

MMIX formulation would be a promising formulation for preventing the undesirable adverse effects of UV skin irradiation because melatonin not only acts as a potent antioxidant itself, but also is capable of activating an endogenous enzymatic protective system against oxidative stress.

Influence of the photostabilizer in the photoprotective effects of a formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A

Vitamin A palmitate has been used in cosmetics; however, studies report that this substance shows photoreactivity that can lead to loss of safety and efficacy. On the other hand, photostabilizers have been used to increase sunscreen photostability and consequently their safety and effectiveness. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on the photoprotective effects of a cosmetic formulation containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate. The formulation containing UV-filters was supplemented with vitamin A palmitate and the photostabilizers diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN), bumetrizole and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC). Hairless mice were treated daily by topical applications and irradiated (UVA/B). Erythema index, transepidermal water loss, histological/histometric analysis and number of sunburn cells (SBC) were evaluated. The results showed that all formulations protected from UV-induced enhancement of erythema and SBC but there was no difference among them. The formulation with no stabilizers reduced viable epidermis thickness due to atrophy induced by UV radiation. Thus, it can be concluded that the presence of photostabilizers influenced the effects of formulations containing UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, which could be seen by histological and histometric analysis. Furthermore, the formulations containing the stabilizers DEHN and BTDC showed better protective effects on hairless mice skin.