Mangiferin and naringenin affect the photostability and phototoxicity of sunscreens containing avobenzone

In vitro safety evaluation of (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate (K-116) - the novel potential UV filter designed by means of a double chromophore strategy

The use of topical photoprotection is necessary to reduce adverse effects caused by excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Despite the high standards set for UV filters, many of them may contribute to the occurrence of adverse effects. The newly synthesised compound K-116, the (E)-cinnamoyl xanthone derivative, could be an alternative. We conducted extended in vitro safety evaluation of compound K-116. The research included assessment of irritation potential on skin tissue, evaluation of penetration through the epidermis, and assessment of phototoxicity, and mutagenicity. Additionally, the eco-safety of compound K-116 was evaluated, including an examination of its degradation pathway in the Cunninghamella echinulata model, as well as in silico simulation of the toxicity of both the parent compound and its degradation products. The research showed that compound K-116 tested in future application conditions is deprived of skin irritant potential additionally it does not penetrate through the epidermis. Results showed that K-116 concentrate is not phototoxic and not mutagenic. The eco-safety studies showed that it undergoes biodegradation in 27% in Cunninghamella echinulata model. The parent compound and formed metabolite are less toxic than reference UV filters (octinoxate and octocrylene).

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

Peptide Cysteine Thiols Act as Photostabilizer of Avobenzone through Stabilising the Transition State of Keto-enol Tautomerization

Photostabilizers have been used to impart stability to an FDA-approved chemical UV-A filter avobenzone against the UV-A radiations and sunlight. The thiol group of glutathione plays a critical role in imparting the photostabilization activity of glutathione on avobenzone. The current report aims to evaluate the photostabilization activity of multiple thiols containing cysteine peptides on avobenzone. Cysteine-tripeptide and cysteine-pentapeptide were chemically synthesized and characterized using mass spectrometry. Synthetic peptides were assessed for their photostabilization activity on the enolic-form of the avobenzone under natural sunlight using UV-spectroscopy in both protic and aprotic solvents. Unlike glutathione which has pronounced activity in protic solvents, cysteine-pentapeptide exhibits similar photoprotection activity in both protic and aprotic solvents. Computational calculations using DFT suggest that peptide cysteine thiols may assist in the reversal of the photoketonization process of avobenzone thereby exhibiting the photoprotection activity to the enolic-form of avobenzone. Peptide cysteine thiols lower the activation energy barrier of keto-to-enol tautomerization of avobenzone by 30 kcal/mol by assisting the proton shuttle through a six-membered transition state. The current report emphasizes the applications of peptide thiols in cosmetics and may help in the development of peptides as aesthetic medicines.

Evaluation of toxicological aspects of three new benzoxazole compounds with sunscreen photophysical properties using in silico and in vitro methods

Sunscreening chemicals protect against damage caused by sunlight most absorbing UVA or UVB radiations. In this sense, 2-(2'-hydroxyphenyl)benzoxazole derivatives with amino substituents in the 4' and 5' positions have an outstandingly high Sun Protection Factor and adequate photostability, but their toxicity is not yet known. This study aimed to evaluate the toxicity of three synthetic 2-(2'-hydroxyphenyl)benzoxazole derivatives for their possible application as sunscreens. In silico tools were used in order to assess potential risks regarding mutagenic, carcinogenic, and skin sensitizing potential. Bioassays were performed in L929 cells to assess cytotoxicity in MTT assay and genotoxic activities in the Comet assay and micronucleus test. Also, the Salmonella/microsome assay was performed to evaluate gene mutations. The in silico predictions indicate a low risk of mutagenicity and carcinogenicity of the compounds while the skin sensitizing potential was low or inconclusive. The 2-(4'-amino-2'-hydroxyphenyl)benzoxazol compound was the most cytotoxic and genotoxic among the compounds evaluated in L929 cells, but none induced mutations in the Salmonella/microsome assay. The amino substituted at the 4' position of the phenyl ring appears to have greater toxicological risks than substituents at the 5' position of 2-(phenyl)benzoxazole. The findings warrant further studies of these compounds in cosmetic formulations.

Recent advances in the discovery of novel marine natural products and mycosporine-like amino acid UV-absorbing compounds

Abstract

Bioactive compounds from marine environments represent a rich source of bioproducts for potential use in medicine and biotechnology. To discover and identify novel marine natural products (MNPs), evaluating diverse biological activities is critical. Increased sensitivity and specificity of omics technologies, especially next-generation high-throughput sequencing combined with liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance, are speeding up the discovery of novel bioactive compounds. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) isolated from many marine microorganisms are among highly promising MNPs characterized by ultraviolet radiation (UV) absorbing capacities and are recognized as a potential source of ecologically friendly sunscreens. MAAs absorb damaging UV radiation with maximum absorption in the range of 310–360 nm, including both UVA and UVB ranges. MAAs are also characterized by other biological activities such as anti-oxidant, anti-cancer, and anti-inflammatory activities. The application of modern omics approaches promoted some recent developments in our understanding of MAAs’ functional significance and diversity. This review will summarize the various modern tools that could be applied during the identification and characterization of MNPs, including MAAs, to further their innovative applications.

Key points

• New omics technologies are speeding up the discovery of novel bio-products

• The vast diversity of bioactive capacities of marine natural products described

• Marine microorganisms as a source of environmentally friendly sunscreens

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids from Marine Resource

In the last 10 years, a great number of publications (both regular papers and reviews) have been published on the interesting molecules—mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Despite significant advances in the research of MAAs, current overviews in the recent publications involving MAA research still need reporting. The aim of this Special Issue is to join, as an interdisciplinary approach, the photochemical and photobiological aspects, with emphasis on new natural resources to obtain both algae and zooplankton MAAs, advances in methodology of extraction and chemical identification of new MAAs. Finally, this Special Issue reviews the bioactivities of MAAs including UVR screen, antioxidant, immunostimulant, growth factor, DNA protection, inhibition of collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase, and anti-photoaging, among others, and their potential use as nutracosmeceutic molecules (i.e., oral and topic photoprotector).

The Involvement of Xanthone and (E)-Cinnamoyl Chromophores for the Design and Synthesis of Novel Sunscreening Agents

Excessive UV exposure contributes to several pathological conditions like skin burns, erythema, premature skin aging, photodermatoses, immunosuppression, and skin carcinogenesis. Effective protection from UV radiation may be achieved with the use of sunscreens containing UV filters. Currently used UV filters are characterized by some limitations including systemic absorption, endocrine disruption, skin allergy induction, and cytotoxicity. In the research centers all over the world new molecules are developed to improve the safety, photostability, solubility, and absorption profile of new derivatives. In our study, we designed and synthesized seventeen novel molecules by combining in the structures two chromophores: xanthone and (E)-cinnamoyl moiety. The ultraviolet spectroscopic properties of the tested compounds were confirmed in chloroform solutions. They acted as UVB or UVA/UVB absorbers. The most promising compound 9 (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate) absorbed UV radiation in the range 290-369 nm. Its photoprotective activity and functional photostability were further evaluated after wet milling and incorporation in the cream base. This tested formulation with compound 9 possessed very beneficial UV protection parameters (SPFin vitro of 19.69 ± 0.46 and UVA PF of 12.64 ± 0.32) which were similar as broad-spectrum UV filter tris-biphenyl triazine. Additionally, compound 9 was characterized by high values of critical wavelength (381 nm) and UVA/UVB ratio (0.830) thus it was a good candidate for broad-spectrum UV filter and it might protect skin against UVA-induced photoaging. Compound 9 were also shown to be photostable, non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 50 µM when tested on five cell lines, and non-mutagenic in Ames test. It also possessed no estrogenic activity, according to the results of MCF-7 breast cancer model. Additionally, its favorable lipophilicity (miLogP = 5.62) does not predispose it to penetrate across the skin after topical application.

Boto R, Ferreira D, R. Fernandes J, Almeida P, F. V. Ferreira L, Silva AM, V. Reis L. Red and Near-Infrared Absorbing DicyanomethyleneSquaraine Cyanine Dyes: PhotophysicochemicalProperties and Anti-Tumor Photosensitizing Effects

Photodynamic therapy is a medical modality developed for the treatment of several diseases of oncological and non-oncological etiology that requires the presence of a photosensitizer, light and molecular oxygen, which combined will trigger physicochemical reactions responsible for reactive oxygen species production. Given the scarcity of photosensitizers that exhibit desirable characteristics for its potential application in this therapeutic strategy, the main aims of this work were the study of the photophysical and photochemical properties and the photobiological activity of several dicyanomethylene squaraine cyanine dyes. Thus, herein, the study of their aggregation character, photobleaching and singlet oxygen production ability, and the further application of the previously synthesized dyes in Caco-2 and HepG2 cancer cell lines, to evaluate their phototherapeutic effects, are described. Dicyanomethylene squaraine dyes exhibited moderate light-stability and, despite the low singlet oxygen quantum yields, were a core of dyes that exhibited relevant in vitro photodynamic activity, as there was an evident increase in the toxicity of some of the tested dyes exclusive to radiation treatments.

Is the Botryococcus braunii Dry Biomass an Adjuvant for Anti-UVB Topical Formulations?

Several topical products have been developed to avoid the harmful effects from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, such as sunscreens. Research for actives from natural sources is increasing due to the fact that chemical filters could induce adverse events. The microalgae Botryococcus braunii has potential interest in cosmetic applications. Specialized literature reported that B. braunii aqueous extract induced a reduction in skin dehydration and collagen production and promoted antioxidant activity. This research aimed to produce B. braunii biomass and to investigate its contribution regarding photoprotection. Formulations containing B. braunii dry biomass, with or without UV filters into vehicles composed of an emulsifying polymer or a self-emulsifying base, were evaluated in vitro by means of photoprotective activity and photostability. B. braunii dry biomass did not provide adequate photoprotection efficacy; however, it was observed that the self-emulsifying base promoted better sun protection factor (SPF) in comparison with the emulsifying polymer.

Comparison of toxicological effects of oxybenzone, avobenzone, octocrylene, and octinoxate sunscreen ingredients on cucumber plants (Cucumis sativus L.)

Oxybenzone (OBZ), avobenzone (AVB), octocrylene (OCR) and octinoxate (OMC) are ultraviolet (UV) filters commonly added to chemical sunscreens. These UV filters are known to widely contaminate the environment through a variety of anthropogenic sources, including sewage discharge. However, systematic studies of the damage caused by these four UV filters and their toxicopathological differences in a variety of plant species are lacking. In this study, we demonstrated that irrigation with water containing these four UV filters could significantly inhibit the aboveground growth of cucumber plant. All of the UV filters decreased photosynthesis through nonstomatal factors but via different inhibitory mechanisms. Only OBZ inhibited photosynthesis by directly inhibiting photosynthetic electron transport, while the other three (AVB, OCR, and OMC) inhibited photosynthesis by inhibiting the Calvin-Benson cycle. Additionally, these four UV filters also decreased plant respiration under long-term treatment. Photosynthesis and respiration inhibition led to the over production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the formation of lipid peroxidation damage products, which further damaged the structure and function of plant cells, causing secondary pathologies and potentially leading to reduced crop yields. The study also demonstrated that these four UV filters caused different degrees of phototoxic damage to cucumber plants. On the basis of comprehensive evaluation, we speculated that the order of the four UV filters in terms of plant damage was OBZ > AVB > OMC > OCR. Because of the severe damaging effects of these UV filters on plant growth, the application of contaminated biosolids/reclaimed water in agriculture reduces agricultural production and may damage ecosystems. The results of this study can advance recognition of the hazards associated with environmental and agricultural pollution via UV filters and encourage consumers and the industry to limit or reduce the application of cosmetics and over-the-counter drugs containing these substances.

Investigating partitioning of free versus macrocycle bound guest into a model POPC lipid bilayer

We report on the permeation of free and macrocycle-bound avobenzone across a POPC lipid bilayer through combined neutron reflectometry experiments and molecular dynamics simulations. Results indicate that the p-phosphonated calix[8]arene macrocycle limits the avobenzone penetration into the upper leaflet of the membrane. Hence, it could serve as a useful vehicle for safer formulations.

We report on the permeation of free and macrocycle-bound avobenzone across a POPC lipid bilayer through combined neutron reflectometry experiments and molecular dynamics simulations.

Implementation of an in vitro methodology for phototoxicity evaluation in a human keratinocyte cell line

To assess photoxicity, several in vitro methods using different cellular models have been developed for preclinical testing. Over prediction of the in vivo photosafety hazard has been however appointed. Herein, we describe the implementation and validation of an in vitro methodology for phototoxicity evaluation based on the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test using the HaCaT human keratinocyte cell line, and UVA/UVB radiation. Known positive (5-methoxypsoralen, chlorpromazine, and quinine) and negative (acetyl salicylic acid, hexachlorophene, and sodium lauryl sulphate) controls were tested together with a set of chemical currently used in cosmetic/pharmaceutical formulations. Apart from the advantage of using a cell line of human origin, these cells were generally more resistant to the cytotoxic effects of the test substances relative to the 3T3 mouse fibroblasts when exposed to an UVA irradiation dose of 1.7 mW/cm². Therefore, this HaCaT NRU assay provides a more realistic experimental model that overcomes the over/high sensitivity frequently noted with the 3T3 NRU assay and that is more consistent with the human in vivo situation. Using a more representative method can prevent time-consuming and expensive in vivo testing in both animal models and humans that can significantly delay the clinical development of new chemicals.

UVA and UVB Photoprotective Capabilities of Topical Formulations Containing Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs) through Different Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs)

The safety and stability of synthetic UV-filters and the procedures for evaluating the photoprotective capability of commercial sunscreens are under continuous review. The influence of pH and temperature stressors on the stability of certain Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) isolated at high purity levels was examined. MAAs were highly stable at room temperature during 24 h at pH 4.5–8.5. At 50 °C, MAAs showed instability at pH 10.5 while at 85 °C, progressive disappearances were observed for MAAs through the studied pH range. In alkaline conditions, their degradation was much faster. Mycosporine-serinol and porphyra-334 (+shinorine) were the most stable MAAs under the conditions tested. They were included in four cosmetically stable topical sunscreens, of which the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs) were calculated. The formulation containing these MAAs showed similar SPF and UVB-BEPFs values as those of the reference sunscreen, composed of synthetic UV absorbing filters in similar percentages, while UVA-BEPFs values were slightly lower. Current in vitro data strongly suggest that MAAs, as natural and safe UV-absorbing and antioxidant compounds, have high potential for protection against the diverse harmful effects of solar UV radiation. In addition, novel complementary in vitro tests for evaluation of commercial sunscreens efficacy are proposed.

Effects of lomefloxacin on survival, growth and reproduction of Daphnia magna under simulated sunlight radiation

Lomefloxacin, an antibacterial agent with known photo-induced toxicity in clinical studies, is frequently detected in aquatic environments. Investigating the photo-induced toxicity of lomefloxacin in aquatic organisms is therefore of importance for assessing its ecological risks. In this study, the effects of lomefloxacin on survival, growth and reproduction of Daphnia magna under simulated sunlight radiation (SSR) were investigated, and the mechanism of action was revealed. Results indicated that SSR containing UV radiation increased the acute toxicity of lomefloxacin to Daphnia magna relative to white fluorescent light irradiation. Under SSR, 100 μM lomefloxacin significantly enhanced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and lipid peroxidation, and decreased activities of superoxide dismutase and catalase. The biochemical observations and apparent effects on the organism indicate that oxidative stress plays a central role in the acute photo-induced toxicity. Chronic toxicity results showed that SSR significantly affected growth and reproduction of Daphnia magna, whereas lomefloxacin reduced the damage of UV radiation in SSR through light shielding. This study provides insight into the mechanism of photo-induced toxicity and can support the risk assessment of chemicals in the aquatic environment by including the impacts of sunlight irradiation on toxicity.

Multifaceted Health Benefits of Mangifera indica L. (Mango): The Inestimable Value of Orchards Recently Planted in Sicilian Rural Areas

Historically, Mangifera indica L. cultivations have been widely planted in tropical areas of India, Africa, Asia, and Central America. However, at least 20 years ago its spreading allowed the development of some cultivars in Sicily, an island to the south of Italy, where the favourable subtropical climate and adapted soils represent the perfect field to create new sources of production for the Sicilian agricultural supply chain. Currently, cultivations of Kensington Pride, Keitt, Glenn, Maya, and Tommy Atkins varieties are active in Sicily and their products meet the requirements of local and European markets. Mango plants produce fleshy stone fruits rich in phytochemicals with an undisputed nutritional value for its high content of polyphenolics and vitamins. This review provides an overview of the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer properties of mango, a fruit that should be included in everyone's diet for its multifaceted biochemical actions and health-enhancing properties.

The Phototoxic Potential of the Flavonoids, Taxifolin and Quercetin

Quercetin, one of the most abundant polyphenols in the plant kingdom has been shown to be photodegraded on exposure to UV light. Despite the fact, it is a component of several dermatological preparations. Its phototoxic potential has not been evaluated to date. The aim of this study was to assess whether photo-induced degradation of quercetin is linked to phototoxic effects on living cells. Its dihydro derivative, taxifolin, was included in the study. For evaluation, the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake Phototoxicity Test according to OECD TG 432 was used. To better approximate human skin, HaCaT keratinocytes, normal human epidermal keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts were used, apart from the Balb/c 3T3 cell line. Quercetin showed a dose-dependent photodegradation in aqueous and organic environments and a phototoxic effect on all used cells. Quercetin pretreatment and following UVA exposure resulted in increased reactive oxygen species production and intracellular glutathione level depletion in human dermal fibroblasts. Taxifolin was found completely nonphototoxic and photostable. As only in vitro methodology was used, further studies using 3D skin models and/or human volunteers are needed to confirm whether exposure to sunlight, tanning sunbeds and/or phototherapy in people using cosmetics containing quercetin is a health risk.

Melanoma Chemoprevention: Current Status and Future Prospects

The incidence of skin cancers, both nonmelanoma and melanoma, is increasing in the United States. The ultraviolet radiation, mainly from sun, is considered the major cause for these neoplasms. While nonmelanoma skin cancers are far more numerous, melanoma remains the most challenging. This is because melanoma can become extremely aggressive and its incidence is increasing worldwide due to lack of effective early detection, as well as disease recurrence, following both surgery and chemotherapy. Therefore, in addition to better treatment options, newer means are required to prevent melanomas from developing. Chemoprevention is a reasonable cost-effective approach to prevent carcinogenesis by inhibiting the processes of tumor initiation, promotion and progression. Melanoma is a progressive disease, which makes it very suitable for chemopreventive interventions, by targeting the processes and molecular pathways involved in the progression of melanoma. This review discusses the roles of various chemopreventive agents such as NSAIDs, statins, vitamins and dietary agents in melanoma and highlights current advancements and our perspective on future of melanoma chemoprevention. Although considerable preclinical data suggest that melanoma may be prevented or delayed by a numerous chemopreventive agents, we realize there are insufficient clinical studies evaluating their efficacy and long-term safety for human use.

Naringenin improves the sunscreen performance of vegetable nanocarriers

Naringenin enhances the UV protection, photostability and cell viability of lipid based vegetable nanocarriers.

Preparation of rutile TiO2@avobenzone composites for the further enhancement of sunscreen performance

It is well known that organic avobenzone and inorganic TiO₂ are applied to shield UVA and UVB, respectively.