Bioactive compounds from natural resources against skin aging

Food-derived skin-care ingredient as a promising strategy for skin aging: Current knowledge and future perspectives

Skin aging involves complex biochemical reactions and has attracted a growing concern recently. For it, there is a great desire to replace the hazardous and easy-recurring "therapy means" with "daily care" based on some natural and healthy ingredients. According to a novel theory called "homology of cosmetic and food", the safety, efficacy and accessibility of food-derived skin-care ingredients offer an attractive option for combating skin aging, which will be an inevitable trend of dermatology in the future. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major trigger of skin aging. It acts on the skin and generates reactive oxygen species, which causing oxidative stress. More, matrix metalloproteinase and melanin levels are also upregulated by the UV-activated mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and tyrosinase, respectively, resulting in collagen degradation and melanin deposition in the extracellular matrix. Through the existing studies, the relevant key biomarkers and biochemical pathways can be effectively controlled by skin-care ingredients from animal-derived and plant-derived foods as well as traditional herbs, thus preserving human skin from UV-induced aging in terms of antioxidant, collagen protection and melanin inhibition. To extend their application potential, some carriers represented by nanoliposomes can facilitate the transdermal absorption of food-derived skin-care ingredients by the variation of molecular weight and lipid solubility. The present review will provide an overview of the trigger mechanisms of skin aging, and focus on the molecular biology aspects of food-derived skin-care ingredients in skin matrix and the critical summarize of their research state.

Effects of Plant Meristem-Cell-Based Cosmetics on Menopausal Skin: Clinical Data and Mechanisms

A randomised open clinical/laboratory study was performed to evaluate the safety and cosmetic efficacy of facial cosmetics for females during the menopausal period. The cosmetics contain active ingredients of meristem cells derived from the medicinal plants Leontopodium alpinum, Buddeleja davidii, Centella asiatica, and Echinacea angustifolia. Recently, the major bioactive molecules of these medicinal plants (leontopodic acid, verbascoside, asiaticoside, and echinacoside, respectively) have been thoroughly evaluated in vitro for molecular pathways and cellular mechanisms and their preventive/curative effects on human skin cells exposed to factors promoting premature skin ageing and cellular senescence. Nevertheless, clinical data on their safety/efficacy to ageing human skin are scarce. This clinical study enrolled 104 Caucasian females in pre-menopause, menopause, or post-menopause periods. They applied cosmetic serums daily for 1 month. Questionnaires and instrumental and biochemical methods were used to assess dermatological/ophthalmological safety and cosmetic efficacy through changes of the skin physiology markers characteristic of ageing/menopause (elasticity, barrier functions, moisture, sebum, ultrasonic properties, and collagen content and structure). Quantitative microbiological tests were carried out for skin microbiota fluctuations. Data showed that the cosmetics were safe, and they shifted the skin physiology parameters to a younger biological age, enhanced collagen synthesis, inhibited lipid peroxidation, and favoured normal microbiota.

Health-Promoting Properties of Natural Flavonol Glycosides Isolated from Staphylea pinnata L

Staphylea, also called bladdernuts, is a genus of plants belonging to the family Staphyleaceae, widespread in tropical or temperate climates of America, Europe, and the Far East. Staphylea spp. produce bioactive metabolites with antioxidant properties, including polyphenols which have not been completely investigated for their phytotherapeutic potential, even though they have a long history of use for food. Here, we report the isolation of six flavonol glycosides from the hydroalcoholic extract of aerial parts of Staphylea pinnata L., collected in Italy, using a solid-phase extraction technique. They were identified using spectroscopic, spectrometric, and optical methods as three quercetin and three isorhamnetin glycosides. Among the flavonol glycosides isolated, isoquercetin and quercetin malonyl glucoside showed powerful antioxidant, antimicrobial, and wound healing promoting activity and thus are valuable as antiaging ingredients for cosmeceutical applications and for therapeutic applications in skin wound repair.

Five New Tamarixetin Glycosides from Astragalus thracicus Griseb. Including Some Substituted with the Rare 3-Hydroxy-3-methylglutaric Acid and Their Collagenase Inhibitory Effects In Vitro

Along with the known kaempferol-3-O-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)-[6-O-(3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (1), five new flavonoids, containing the rarely isolated aglycon tamarixetin, were isolated from a methanolic extract of the endemic Balkan species Astragalus thracicus Griseb. Three of the new compounds are substituted with 3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl residue (HMG), untypical for the genus Astragalus. The compounds were identified as tamarixetin-3-O-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 2)-[6-O-(3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (2), tamarixetin-3-O-(2,6-di-O-α-l-rhamnopyranosyl)-β-d-galactopyranoside (3), tamarixetin 3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-β-d-galactopyranoside (4), tamarixetin-3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-[6-O-(3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (5), and tamarixetin-3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-[α-l-rhamnopyranosyl-(1 → 6)]-β-d-galactopyranoside (6). Selected compounds from A. thracicus were tested to evaluate their anticollagenase activity. The greatest effect was observed for quercetin-3-O-β-d-apiofuranosyl-(1 → 2)-β-d-galactopyranoside, possibly due to the presence of an ortho-dihydroxy arrangement of flavonoid ring B. The effect on collagenase and elastase was further evaluated also by in silico study, and the test compounds showed some level of in silico interaction.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Research Progress on Injectable Microspheres as New Strategies for the Treatment of Osteoarthritis Through Promotion of Cartilage Repair

Osteoarthritis (OA) is a degenerative disease caused by a variety of factors with joint pain as the main symptom, including fibrosis, chapping, ulcers, and loss of cartilage. Traditional treatment can only delay the progression of OA, and classical delivery system have many side effects. In recent years, microspheres have shown great application prospects in the field of OA treatment. Microspheres can support cells, reproduce the natural tissue microenvironment in vitro and in vivo, and are an efficient delivery system for the release of drugs or biological agents, which can promote cell proliferation, migration, and differentiation. Thus, they have been widely used in cartilage repair and regeneration. In this review, preparation processes, basic materials, and functional characteristics of various microspheres commonly used in OA treatment are systematically reviewed. Then it is introduced surface modification strategies that can improve the biological properties of microspheres and discussed a series of applications of microsphere functionalized scaffolds in OA treatment. Finally, based on bibliometrics research, the research development, future potential, and possible research hotspots of microspheres in the field of OA therapy is systematically and dynamically evaluated. The comprehensive and systematic review will bring new understanding to the field of microsphere treatment of OA.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Evaluation of the Antimicrobial Activity of Geraniol and Selected Geraniol Transformation Products against Gram-Positive Bacteria

Both geraniol and the products of its transformation, thanks to their beneficial properties, find a variety of applications in cosmetics. Due to their antioxidant and moisturizing properties, these compounds can be added to skin care products such as face creams, lotions, oils, and masks. In addition, these compounds show some antibacterial and antifungal properties, making them suitable for application in skin care products to help fight against bacteria or fungi. This study determined the antimicrobial activity of geraniol and the compounds which were formed during its transformation in relation to selected Gram-positive bacteria, and the preliminary assessment was made whether these compounds can act as ingredients of preparations with potential antimicrobial activity in the treatment of various human diseases (for example diseases of the skin, digestive system, or urinary tract). In addition, this work presents studies on the microbiological purity of cream samples obtained with different contents of geraniol and its transformation products (contents of the tested compounds: 0.5%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 4%, 8%, and 12%). Antibacterial activity tests were performed using the disc diffusion method against Gram-positive cocci, including the reference strains Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 29213 and Enterococcus faecalis ATCC 29212, and against the clinical strains Staphylococcus aureus MRSA, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Enterococcus faecalis VRE VanB, Enterococcus faecium VRE VanA, and Enterococcus faecium VRE VanB. The most active ingredient against bacteria of the Staphylococcus genus was citral, followed by linalool and then geraniol. During our tests, in the case of bacteria of the Enterococcus genus, citral also showed the highest activity, but linalool, ocimenes, and geraniol showed a slightly lower activity. Moreover, this study examined the microbiological purity of cream samples obtained with various contents of geraniol and its transformation products. In the tests of the microbiological purity of cream samples, no growth of aerobic bacteria and fungi was found, which proves the lack of microbiological contamination of the obtained cosmetic preparations. On this basis, it was assessed that these compounds have preservative properties in the prepared creams. The addition of the analyzed compounds also had influence on the durability of the creams and had no effect on the change in their consistency, did not negatively affect the separation of phases during storage, and even had a positive effect on organoleptic sensations by enriching the smell of the tested samples.

An evaluation of the antioxidant potential and in vitro enzyme inhibition profile of selected bryophytes from Northeast Anatolia (Türkiye)

Interest in the use of bryophytes in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industrial applications is growing worldwide due to their secondary metabolites. In this study, n-hexane crude extracts and further fractions (aqueous, ethyl acetate and n-butanol) of aqueous ethanol (80:20, ethanol:H2O, v/v) were obtained from five different bryophytes (Pellia epiphylla, Conocephalum conicum, Porella platyphylla, Plagiomnium cuspidatum and Mnium spinulosum) collected from Trabzon, Türkiye. The total phenolic compound (TPC) content, antioxidant capacity (AC) and enzyme inhibition activity (acetylcholine esterase, butyrylcholine esterase, tyrosinase, α-amylase and α-glucosidase) of the extracts and fractions were species-specific and varied significantly between the crude extracts and fractions. Among the different bryophytes, Porella platyphylla and Pellia epiphylla in n-butanol and Plagiomnium cuspidatum and Mnium spinulosum in ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the highest TPC contents and AC values. The contents of phenolic acids liberated in free, ester and glycoside forms were also species-specific. p-Hydroxybenzoic acid (p-HBA) in free form in P. cuspidatum and P. platyphylla, p-coumaric acid (p-CoA) in ester form and m-hydroxybenzoic acid (m-HBA) in glycoside form in M. spinulosum were the major phenolic acids in the bryophytes. The n-hexane extracts of the bryophytes, in particular M. spinulosum, had IC50 values ​​almost 100 times lower than acarbose. This suggests that M. spinulosum in particular may represent a possible candidate for the production of new antidiabetic agents.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Electrosprayed Environment-Friendly Dry Triode-Like Facial Masks for Skincare

The cosmetics industry has a worrying impact on the environment, including the plastics used in products and packaging and environmentally unfriendly additives. In this study, we present an environment-friendly triode-like facial mask (TFM) that utilizes only green and degradable raw materials, nontoxic and harmless solvents, and electric energy to achieve distinct switchable directional water transport properties, avoids a wet storage environment, and reduces excessive packaging. The TFM demonstrates droplet stability when not in contact with the skin while facilitating rapid liquid transfer (15 μL) within durations of 2.8 s (dry skin) and 1.9 s (moist skin) upon contact. We elucidate the underlying mechanism behind this triode-like behavior, emphasizing the synergistic interaction of the wettability gradient, Gibbs pinning, and additional circumferential capillary force. Moreover, the TFM exhibits a reduction in the proportion of aging cells, decreasing from 44.33 to 13.75%, while simultaneously providing antibacterial and skin-beautifying effects. The TFM brings a novel experience while also holding the potential to reduce environmental pollution in the production, packaging, use, and recycling of cosmetics products.

Chemical profiling and dermatological and anti-aging properties of Syzygium jambos L. (Alston): evidence from molecular docking, molecular dynamics, and in vitro experiments

The phytoconstituents of the aqueous extract from Syzygium jambos L. (Alston) leaves were defined using HPLC-PDA-MS/MS and the antioxidant, anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-biofilm activities of the extract were in silico and in vitro investigated. The antioxidant activities were performed using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays as well as H2-DCFDA assay in HaCaT cells in which oxidative stress was induced by UVA radiation. Anti-aging activity was tested in vitro, using aging-related enzymes. The antibacterial, anti-biofilm and inhibitory effects on bacterial mobilities (swarming and swimming) were assessed against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Results showed that S. jambos aqueous extract contained 28 phytochemicals belonging to different metabolite classes, mainly phenolic acids, gallic acid derivatives, flavonoids, and ellagitannins. Mineral content analysis showed that S. jambos leaves contained moderate amounts of nitrogen, potassium, manganese, magnesium, and zinc, relatively low amounts of phosphorus and copper, and high concentration of calcium and iron. The extract displayed strong antioxidant activities in vitro and inhibited UVA-induced oxidative stress in HaCaT cells. Docking the major compounds identified in the extract into the four main protein targets involved in skin aging revealed an appreciable inhibitory potential of these compounds against tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase enzymes. Moreover, molecular dynamic simulations were adopted to confirm the binding affinity of some selected compounds towards the target enzymes. The extract exhibited pronounced in vitro anti-aging effects, compared to kojic acid and quercetin (the reference compounds). It also inhibited the growth of P. aeruginosa, counteracted its ability to form biofilm, and impeded its swarming and swimming mobilities. Altogether, these findings strongly propose S. jambos leaves as a promising source of bioactive metabolites for the development of natural cosmeceutical and dermatological agents.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Novel Organogels from Mauritia flexuosa L.f and Caryodendron orinocense Karst.: A Topical Alternative

Organogels have importance for topical applications because they can be used to deliver drugs in a controlled and prolonged fashion. These are materials consisting of a three-dimensional network of organic molecules dispersed in a solvent. Recent studies have demonstrated that the solvent could be replaced by oils from non-conventional biologic sources. There is a diversity of not-explored species in the Amazon that are promising sources of vegetable oils with a promising composition. This study developed an organogel with buriti (Mauritia flexuosa L.f) and cacay (Caryodendron orinocense Karst.) oils, using cetostearyl alcohol as an organogelator due to its compatibility, stability, security, affordability, and it is readily available. The oils were characterized, and the organogels were synthesized by studying their crystal evolution and oil-binding capacity. The microstructure was evaluated with polarized light microscopy, fractal dimension, FTIR spectroscopy, XRD, and thermal and rheological analyses. It was found that the critical gelation concentration was higher for cacay oil as it possessed a higher amount of polyunsaturated triacylglycerols. The crystals of the buriti organogel had a smaller lamellar shape, a greater surface area, and physical and thermal stability; although, it presented a slower crystal evolution due to the low number of minor compounds and a greater number of saturated triacylglycerols. The polar fraction of the organogelators as well as triacylglycerol and minor polar compounds are important in forming crystallization nuclei. The study showed that Amazonian oils in crystallization processes form microstructures with differentiating physicochemical properties.

Exploring Major Flavonoid Phytochemicals from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. as Potential Skin Anti-Aging Agents: In Silico and In Vitro Evaluations

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., an aquatic medicinal plant (Nelumbonaceae family), has a history of use in traditional medicine across various regions. Our previous study demonstrated the skin anti-aging potential of its stamen ethanolic extract by effectively inhibiting collagenase and tyrosinase enzymes. While the major constituents of this extract are well documented, there is a lack of research on the individual compounds' abilities to inhibit skin aging enzymes. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging potential of the primary flavonoids found in N. nucifera using both in silico and in vitro approaches. Our initial step involved molecular docking to identify compounds with the potential to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase. Among the seven flavonoids studied, kaempferol-3-O-robinobioside (Kae-3-Rob) emerged as the most promising candidate, exhibiting the highest docking scores for three skin aging-related enzymes. Subsequent enzyme-based inhibition assays confirmed that Kae-3-Rob displayed robust inhibitory activity against collagenase (58.24 ± 8.27%), elastase (26.29 ± 7.16%), and tyrosinase (69.84 ± 6.07%). Furthermore, we conducted extensive 200-ns molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, revealing the stability of the complexes formed between Kae-3-Rob and each enzyme along the MD simulation time. MM/PBSA-based binding free energy calculations indicated the considerably stronger binding affinity of Kae-3-Rob for collagenase and tyrosinase compared to elastase, which was related to the greater percentage of hydrogen bond occupations. These computational findings were consistent with the relatively high inhibitory activity of Kae-3-Rob against collagenase and tyrosinase observed in our in vitro experiment. In conclusion, the results obtained from this comprehensive study suggest that Kae-3-Rob, a key flavonoid from N. nucifera, holds significant potential as a source of bioactive compounds for anti-aging cosmeceutical and other phytopharmaceutical application.

Anti-Wrinkling Effect of 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic Acid from the Roots of Nymphoides peltata through MAPK/AP-1, NF-κB, and Nrf2 Signaling in UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

Nymphoides peltata has been widely used pharmacologically in traditional Chinese medicine to treat heat strangury and polyuria. The aim of this study was to isolate the bioactive components from N. peltata and evaluate their potential use as antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents. Phytochemical investigation of the methanolic extract of N. peltata roots led to the isolation of 15 compounds (1-15), which were structurally determined as α-spinasterol (1), 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-oleanolic acid 28-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (3), protocatechuic acid (4), vanillic acid (5), p-coumaric acid (6), caffeic acid (7), ferulic acid (8), neochlorogenic acid (neo-CQA) (9), chlorogenic acid (CQA) (10), cryptochlorogenic acid (crypto-CQA) (11), isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-DCQA) (12), isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-DCQA) (13), isochlorogenic acid C (4,5-DCQA) (14), and 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) (15). Of these 15 compounds, compound 2 was a new oleanane saponin, the chemical structure of which was characterized by 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic data and high-resolution electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HRESIMS), as well as chemical reaction. Biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) significantly improved Nrf2 levels in an Nrf2-ARE reporter HaCaT cell screening assay. TCQA was found to potently inhibit the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway and to possess strong anti-wrinkle activity by modulating the MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling pathway and thus inhibiting MMP-1 synthesis in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB. Our results suggest that TCQA isolated from N. peltata might be useful for developing effective antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents.

Photoprotective Effects of Processed Ginseng Leaf Administration against UVB-Induced Skin Damage in Hairless Mice

Although ginseng leaves contain a larger amount of ginsenosides than the roots, studies on the protective effect of oral administration of ginseng leaves against photoaging are lacking. Processed ginseng leaves (PGL) prepared by acid reaction to increase effective ginsenoside content showed higher levels of Rg3 (29.35 mg/g) and Rk1 (35.16 mg/g) than ginseng leaves (Rg3 (2.14 mg/g) and Rk1 (ND)), and ginsenosides Rg3 and Rk1 were evaluated as active ingredients that protected human keratinocytes against UVB-induced cell damage by increasing cell proliferation and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 and 9 secretion. Herein, the effect of oral PGL administration (50, 100, or 200 mg/kg, daily) against photoaging in HR-1 hairless mice was assessed by measuring wrinkle depth, epidermal thickness, and trans-epidermal water loss for 16 weeks. The PGL treatment group showed reduced skin wrinkles, inhibited MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression, and decreased IL-6 and cyclooxygenase-2 levels. These data suggest that oral PGL administration inhibits photoaging by inhibiting the expression of MMPs, which degrade collagen, and inhibiting cytokines, which induce inflammatory responses. These results reveal that ginseng leaves processed by acid reaction may serve as potential functional materials with anti-photoaging activities.

Effect of anti-skin disorders of ginsenosides- A Systematic Review

Ginsenosides are bioactive components of Panax ginseng with many functions such as anti-aging, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory, anti-fatigue, and anti-tumor. Ginsenosides are categorized into dammarane, oleanene, and ocotillol type tricyclic triterpenoids based on the aglycon structure. Based on the sugar moiety linked to C-3, C-20, and C-6, C-20, dammarane type was divided into protopanaxadiol (PPD) and protopanaxatriol (PPT). The effects of ginsenosides on skin disorders are noteworthy. They play anti-aging roles by enhancing immune function, resisting melanin formation, inhibiting oxidation, and elevating the concentration of collagen and hyaluronic acid. Thus, ginsenosides have previously been widely used to resist skin diseases and aging. This review details the role of ginsenosides in the anti-skin aging process from mechanisms and experimental research.

New Insights into the Dermocosmetic Potential of the Red Seaweed Gelidium corneum

This work addresses the potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum as a source of bioactive ingredients for skin health and wellness in response to the growing awareness regarding the significance of sustainable strategies in developing new nature-based dermocosmetic products. Hydroalcoholic extracts from the dried biomass were subjected to sequential liquid-liquid partitions, affording five different fractions (F1-F5). Their cosmetic potential was assessed through a set of in vitro assays concerning their antioxidant, photoprotective, and healing properties. Additionally, their cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells and their capacity to induce inflammation in RAW 264.7 cells were also evaluated. As a proof-of-concept, O/W emulsions were prepared, and emulsion stability was assessed by optical microscopy, droplet size analysis, centrifugation tests, and rheology analysis. Furthermore, in vivo tests were conducted with the final formulation to assess its antioxidant capacity. At subtoxic concentrations, the most lipophilic fraction has provided photoprotection against UV light-induced photooxidation in HaCaT cells. This was conducted together with the aqueous fraction, which also displayed healing capacities. Regarding the physical and stability assays, the best performance was achieved with the formulation containing 1% aqueous extract, which exhibited water retention and antioxidant properties in the in vivo assay. In summary, Gelidium corneum displayed itself as a potential source of bioactive ingredients with multitarget properties for dermatological use.

Comparative Study of Cytotoxicity and Antioxidant, Anti-Aging and Antibacterial Properties of Unfermented and Fermented Extract of Cornus mas L

Due to the high demand for products that can help treat various skin conditions, the interest in plant extracts, which are a valuable source of phytochemicals, is constantly growing. In this work, the properties of extracts and ferments from Cornus mas L. and their potential use in cosmetic products were compared. For this purpose, their composition, antioxidant properties and cytotoxicity against skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts were assessed in vitro. In addition, the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase was compared, which enabled the assessment of their potential to inhibit skin aging. Microbiological analyses carried out on different bacterial strains were made in order to compare their antibacterial properties. The conducted analyses showed that both dogwood extract and ferment have antioxidant and anti-aging properties. In addition, they can have a positive effect on the viability of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and inhibit the proliferation of various pathogenic bacteria, which indicates their great potential as ingredients in skin care preparations. The stronger activity of the ferment compared to the extract indicates the legitimacy of carrying out the fermentation process of plant raw materials using kombucha in order to obtain valuable products for the cosmetics industry.

Vegetable as a Source of Bioactive Compounds with Photoprotective Properties: Implication in the Aging Process

The skin, as an external organ, protects the entire body against harmful external factors. One of these factors is ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which in excessive amounts can lead to premature skin aging, DNA damage, and even skin cancer. Therefore, it is worth supporting skin protection not only with commercially available preparations, but also with a proper diet. Consuming certain vegetables and applying them topically may reduce the effects of UV radiation. The aim of the review was to collect information on the effects of vegetables and their compounds on the skin when used externally or included in the diet. This review summarizes studies on vegetables, such as broccoli, cucumber, kale, tomato, and carrot, which have shown significant activity in skin photoprotection. Additionally, it outlines the bioactive substances present in these vegetables and their effects.

Synergistic Effects of Vitis vinifera L. and Centella asiatica against CCl4-Induced Liver Injury in Mice

Liver injury can be acute or chronic, resulting from a variety of factors, including viral hepatitis, drug overdose, idiosyncratic drug reaction, or toxins, while the progression of pathogenesis in the liver rises due to the involvement of numerous cytokines and growth factor mediators. Thus, the identification of more effective biomarker-based active phytochemicals isolated from medicinal plants is a promising strategy to protect against CCl₄-induced liver injury. Vitis vinifera L. (VE) and Centella asiatica (CE) are well-known medicinal plants that possess anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. However, synergism between the two has not previously been studied. Here, we investigated the synergistic effects of a V. vinifera L. (VE) leaf, C. asiatica (CE) extract combination (VCEC) against CCl₄-induced liver injury. Acute liver injury was induced by a single intraperitoneal administration of CCl₄ (1 mL/kg). VCEC was administered orally for three consecutive days at various concentrations (100 and 200 mg/kg) prior to CCl₄ injection. The extent of liver injury and the protective effects of VCEC were evaluated by biochemical analysis and histopathological studies. Oxidative stress was evaluated by measuring malondialdehyde (MDA) and glutathione (GSH) levels and Western blotting. VCEC treatment significantly reduced serum transaminase levels (AST and ALT), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), and reactive oxygen species (ROS). CCl₄- induced apoptosis was inhibited by VCEC treatment by reducing cleaved caspase-3 and Bcl2-associated X protein (Bax). VCEC-treated mice significantly restored cytochrome P450 2E1, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) expression in CCl4-treated mice. In addition, VCEC downregulated overexpression of proinflammatory cytokines and hepatic nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB) and inhibited CCl4-mediated apoptosis. Collectively, VCEC exhibited synergistic protective effects against liver injury through its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiapoptotic ability against oxidative stress, inflammation, and apoptosis. Therefore, VCEC appears promising as a potential therapeutic agent for CCl₄-induced acute liver injury in mice.

Sacha inchi albumin delays skin-aging by alleviating inflammation, oxidative stress and regulating gut microbiota in d-galactose induced-aging mice

BACKGROUND

Sacha inchi albumin exhibits considerable functional activity with notable anti-inflammatory and antioxidation properties, which could delay skin aging. However, its underlying mechanisms for delaying skin aging have not been elucidated. The aim of the present study was to investigate the anti-skin-aging effect of sacha inchi albumin (SIA) in d-galactose induced-aging mice.

RESULTS

Sacha inchi albumin improved moisture content, collagen level, and the state of aged skin in rats. Sacha inchi albumin intervention markedly increased the skin antioxidant enzymatic activities including those of glutathione peroxidase, and catalase, but decreased the malondialdehyde content. It also regulated inflammation by reducing the level of tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and increasing the level of interleukin-6 (IL-6). Administration of SIA also increased the expression level of collagen I and III, increased the expression of tissue inhibitor of metalloprotease-1, and decreased the expression of metalloproteinases. Sacha inchi albumin can also activate the transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β)/Smad pathway. Meanwhile, 16S rRNA sequencing analysis revealed that SIA treatment altered the composition of microbiota, and increased the relative abundance of Lactobacillus, but decreased the relative abundance of Alloprevotella and Helicobacter, etc. Helicobacter was positively associated with malondialdehyde (MDA) content and was negatively related to IL-6.

CONCLUSION

Sacha inchi albumin exhibits excellent anti-skin-aging effect, which provide a new insight for the development of functional sacha inchi albumin. © 2023 Society of Chemical Industry.

Skin Microbiota and the Cosmetic Industry

Skin harbors an important microbial ecosystem - the skin microbiota that is in homeostasis with its host and is beneficial for human health. Cosmetic products have the potential to interfere with this microbial community; therefore their impact should be assessed. The aim of this review is to highlight the importance of skin microbiota in the cosmetic industry. Several studies determined that cosmetic ingredients have the potential to disrupt the skin microbiota equilibrium leading to the development of skin diseases and dysregulation of immune response. These studies led their investigation by using different methodologies and models, concluding that methods must be chosen according to the aim of the study, the skin site to be evaluated, and the target population of the cosmetics. Overall, it is crucial to test the impact of cosmetics in the skin microbiota and to stablish standard procedures, as well as specific criteria that allow to classify a cosmetic product as skin microbiota friendly.

Therapeutic Potential of Bioactive Compounds from Brugmansia suaveolens Bercht. & J. Presl

Brugmansia suaveolens Bercht. & J. Presl has been widely used due to the presence of different bioactive compounds. This review summarizes the latest advances and perspectives of the B. suaveolens plant species; it is a systematic literature review on aspects of botany, traditional uses, phytochemistry, pharmacology, and toxicology as therapeutic potential. In addition, 120 compounds are described, including alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids, steroids, amino acids, aromatics, and aliphatics. As for the therapeutic potential, it is described in extracts and compounds in the antitumor, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, anticoagulant, and analgesic aspects, as well as the effects on the central nervous system. The toxicity of the genus stands out, especially the potential for organ toxicity. Therefore, this review evidenced the knowledge related to the traditional use based on the scientific research of Brugmansia suaveolens, highlighting an overview of bioactive compounds and biological and toxicological activities in order to provide a scientific basis for future studies on the value of this species for the development of new natural products.

Microneedle-Assisted Topical Delivery of Idebenone-Loaded Bioadhesive Nanoparticles Protect against UV-Induced Skin Damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation can penetrate the basal layer of the skin and induce profound alterations in the underlying dermal tissues, including skin pigmentation, oxidative stress, photoaging, glycation, and skin cancer. Idebenone (IDB), an effective antioxidant that suppresses melanin biosynthesis and glycation, can protect the skin from UV-induced damage, accounting for its use in commercial anti-aging formulations. Ideally, IDB formulations should retain IDB inside the skin for a sufficient period, despite disturbances such as sweating or swimming. Herein, we present an IDB topical formulation based on Tris (tris(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane)-modified bioadhesive nanoparticles (Tris-BNPs) and microneedle-assisted delivery. We found that Tris-BNPs loaded with IDB (IDB/Tris-BNPs) effectively reached the basal layer of the skin and were retained for at least 4 days with a slow and continuous drug release profile, unlike non-bioadhesive nanoparticles (NNPs) and bioadhesive nanoparticles (BNPs) of similar sizes (ranging from 120-142 nm) and zeta-potentials (above -20 mV), which experienced a significant reduction in concentration within 24 h. Notably, IDB/Tris-BNPs showed superior performance against UV-induced damage relative to IDB/NNPs and IDB/BNPs. This effect was demonstrated by lower levels of reactive oxygen species and advanced glycation end-products in skin tissues, as well as suppressed melanogenesis. Therefore, the proposed IDB delivery strategy provided long-term protective effects against UV-induced skin damage.

Recent Advances in the Microencapsulation of Essential Oils, Lipids, and Compound Lipids through Spray Drying: A Review

In recent decades, the microcapsules of lipids, compound lipids, and essential oils, have found numerous potential practical applications in food, textiles, agricultural products, as well as pharmaceuticals. This article discusses the encapsulation of fat-soluble vitamins, essential oils, polyunsaturated fatty acids, and structured lipids. Consequently, the compiled information establishes the criteria to better select encapsulating agents as well as combinations of encapsulating agents best suited to the types of active ingredient to be encapsulated. This review shows a trend towards applications in food and pharmacology as well as the increase in research related to microencapsulation by the spray drying of vitamins A and E, as well as fish oil, thanks to its contribution of omega 3 and omega 6. There is also an increase in articles in which spray drying is combined with other encapsulation techniques, or modifications to the conventional spray drying system.

Novel Strategy in Searching for Natural Compounds with Anti-Aging and Rejuvenating Potential

We suggest a novel approach for searching natural compounds with anti-aging and rejuvenation potential using cell cultures, with a high potential for the further in vivo applications. The present paper discusses ways of defining age for cell populations with large numbers of cells and suggests a method of assessing how young or old a cell population is based on a cell age profile approach. This approach uses experimental distributions of the cells over the cell cycle stages, acquired using flow cytometry. This paper discusses how such a profile should evolve under homeostatic maintenance of cell numbers in the proliferation niches. We describe promising results from experiments on a commercial substance claiming rejuvenating and anti-aging activity acting upon the cultures of human mononuclear cells and dermal fibroblasts. The chosen substance promotes a shift towards larger proportion of cells in synthesis and proliferation stages, and increases cell culture longevity. Further, we describe promising in vivo testing results of a selected food supplement. Based on the described concept of cell age profile and available test results, a strategy to search for natural compounds with regenerative, anti-aging and rejuvenation potential is suggested and proposed for wider and thorough testing. Proposed methodology of age assessment is rather generic and can be used for quantitative assessment of the anti-aging and rejuvenation potential of different interventions. Further research aimed at the tests of the suggested strategy using more substances and different interventions, and the thorough studies of molecular mechanisms related to the action of the substance used for testing the suggested search methodology, are needed.

Steroids and Fatty Acid Esters from Cyperus sexangularis Leaf and Their Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Elastase Properties

Cyperus sexangularis (CS) is a plant in the sedges family (Cyperaceae) that grows abundantly in swampy areas. The leaf sheath of plants in the Cyperus genus are mostly used domestically for mat making, while they are implicated for skin treatment in traditional medicine. The plant was investigated for its phytochemical contents as well as its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. The n-hexane and dichloromethane leaf extracts were chromatographed on a silica gel column to afford compounds 1-6. The compounds were characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and mass spectrometry. The inhibitory effect of each compound against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), nitric oxide (NO) and ferric ion radicals were determined by standard in vitro antioxidant methods. The in vitro anti-inflammatory response was measured using egg albumin denaturation (EAD) assay, while the anti-elastase activity of each compound in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells was also monitored. The compounds were characterized as three steroidal derivatives, stigmasterol (1), 17-(1-methyl-allyl)-hexadecahydro-cyclopenta[a]phenanthrene (2) and β-sitosterol (3), dodecanoic acid (4) and two fatty acid esters, ethyl nonadecanoate (5) and ethyl stearate (6). Stigmasterol (1) exhibited the best biological properties, with IC₅₀ of 38.18 ± 2.30 µg/mL against DPPH, 68.56 ± 4.03 µg/mL against NO and 303.58 ± 10.33 µAAE/mg against Fe³⁺. At 6.25 µg/mL, stigmasterol inhibited EAD by 50%. This activity was lower when compared to diclofenac (standard), which demonstrated 75% inhibition of the protein at the same concentration. Compounds 1, 3, 4 and 5 showed comparable anti-elastase activity with an IC₅₀ ≥ 50 µg/mL, whereas the activity of ursolic acid (standard) was double fold with an IC₅₀ of 24.80 ± 2.60 µg/mL when compared to each of the compounds. In conclusion, this study has identified three steroids (1-3), one fatty acid (4), and two fatty acid esters (5 and 6) in C. sexangularis leaf for the first time. The compounds showed considerable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. Thus, the findings may serve as a justification for the folkloric use of the plant as a local skin ingredient. It may also serve to validate the biological role of steroids and fatty acid compounds in cosmeceutical formulations.

Characterization and anti-aging effects of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller extracts in a D-galactose-induced skin aging model

Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller (OFI), belonging to the family Cactaceae, is widely cultivated not only for its delicious fruits but also for its health-promoting effects, which enhance the role of OFI as a potential functional food. In this study, the in vitro collagenase and elastase enzyme inhibitory effects of extracts from different parts of OFI were evaluated. The most promising extracts were formulated as creams at two concentrations (3 and 5%) to investigate their effects on a D-galactose (D-gal)-induced skin-aging mouse model. The ethanolic extracts of the peel and cladodes exhibited the highest enzyme inhibitory effects. Cream made from the extract of OFI peel (OP) (5%) and cream from OFI cladodes extract (OC) (5%) significantly decreased the macroscopic aging of skin scores. Only a higher concentration (5%) of OC showed the normalization of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA) skin levels and achieved significant improvements as compared to the vitamin E group. Both OC and OP (5%) showed complete restoration of the normal skin structure and nearly normal collagen fibres upon histopathological examination. The Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography High Resolution Mass Spectrometry (UHPLC-ESI-TOF-MS) metabolite profiles revealed the presence of organic acids, phenolic acids, flavonoids, betalains, and fatty acids. Flavonoids were the predominant phytochemical class (23 and 22 compounds), followed by phenolic acids (14 and 17 compounds) in the ethanolic extracts from the peel and cladodes, respectively. The anti-skin-aging effects could be attributed to the synergism of different phytochemicals in both extracts. From these findings, the OFI peel and cladodes as agro-waste products are good candidates for anti-skin-aging phytocosmetics.

Biochemical and antioxidant activity of wild edible fruits of the eastern Himalaya, India

The eastern Himalayas, one of the important hotspots of global biodiversity, have a rich diversity of wild edible fruit trees. The fruits of these tree species have been consumed by the tribal people since time immemorial. However, there is limited information available on the biochemical and antioxidant properties of the fruits. Therefore, the present investigation was undertaken to study the physico-chemical and antioxidant properties of the nine most important wild fruit trees. Among the species, Pyrus pashia had the maximum fruit weight (37.83 g), while the highest juice (43.72%) and pulp content (84.67%) were noted in Haematocarpus validus and Myrica esculenta, respectively. Maximum total soluble solids (18.27%), total sugar (11.27%), moisture content (88.39%), ascorbic acid content (63.82 mg/100 g), total carotenoids (18.47 mg/100 g), and total monomeric anthocyanin (354.04 mg/100 g) were recorded in H. validus. Docynia indica had the highest total phenolic content (19.37 mg GAE/g), while H. validus recorded the highest total flavonoids and flavanol content. The antioxidant activities of the different fruits ranged from 0.17 to 0.67 IC50 for DPPH activity and 3.59-13.82 mg AAE/g for FRAP. These fruits had attractive pigmentation of both pulp and juice and were a good potential source for the extraction of natural edible color in the food industry. The fruits also possess high market prices; Prunus nepalensis fetched $ 34.10-$ 141.5 per tree. Therefore, these fruits are rich sources of antioxidants, pigments and have a high market value for livelihood and nutritional security.

In Vitro Evaluation of Antioxidant and Protective Potential of Kombucha-Fermented Black Berry Extracts against H2O2-Induced Oxidative Stress in Human Skin Cells and Yeast Model

The fruits of R. nigrum L., A. melanocarpa Michx., and V. myrtillus L. are well-known natural plant materials with proven antioxidant activity. This work attempts to compare the antioxidant properties of extracts of these plants and ferments obtained during their fermentation using a consortium of microorganisms referred to as kombucha. As part of the work, a phytochemical analysis of extracts and ferments was carried out using the UPLC-MS method and the content of the main components was determined. The antioxidant properties of the tested samples and their cytotoxicity were assessed with the use of DPPH and ABTS radicals. The protective effect against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress was also assessed. The possibility of inhibiting the increase in the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species was carried out on both human skin cells (keratinocytes and fibroblasts) and the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae (wild-type strains and sod1Δ deletion mutants). The conducted analyses showed that the ferments obtained are characterized by a greater variety of biologically active compounds; in most cases they do not cause a cytotoxic effect, show strong antioxidant properties, and can reduce oxidative stress in both human and yeast cells. This effect depends on the concentration used and the fermentation time. The results obtained indicate that the tested ferments can be considered as an extremely valuable raw material protecting cells against the negative effects of oxidative stress.

The anti-aging, anti-tuberculosis and antioxidant potential benefits of Saudi Arabia Olea-Europaea Leaves extracts

The olive leaf extract and olive leaf indicated a high potential for application in food additives and foodstuffs. It could be these bio-products useful and important in condition therapy related with oxidative stress and can use it to develop functional foods and to improve the food's shelf life. The olive leaf chemical composition of Oleaeuropaea L. grown from eljouf in Saudi Arabia, using solvents of increasing polarity cyclohexane, dichloromethane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, methanol and ethanol was determined using by GC/MS. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity (diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH), anti-aging, and anti-tuberculosis of olive leaf extracts were evaluated. The results indicated that extract of Oleaeuropaea L. has a considerable contains in polyphenols (hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein and their derivatives) regarding its antioxidant effects, the major components were detected by GC/MS in Olea dichloromethane extract are Hexadecanoic acid (15.82%), 7(4Dimethylaminophenyl)3,3,12trimethyl3,12dihydro6 Hpyrano[2,3c]acridin 6 one (11.21%), and in Olea chloroform extract are Hexatriacontane (12.68%), nTetratr iacontane (10.95%). The results concluded that the plant extract of chloroform showed no anti-aging activities and the lower anti-aging activities for cyclohexane extract, while, the Olea dichloromethane extract was the most active extract. The obtained data confirmed that the most active extract of anti-tubercolisis was for chloroform and ethyl acetate extract, while, anti-tubercolisis activity of ethanolic extract was the lower. The extract amount as well as the solvent polarity influence the inhibitory activity. A favorable connection was demonstrated inter alia the leaf extracts antioxidant activity and the content of total phenol.

Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Sargassum macrocarpum Extracts

Oxidative stress and the inflammatory response are known to be the most important pathological factors for aging skin cells. Therefore, substances that protect skin cells from oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions of the skin have potential as functional ingredients for skin care. In the present study, we investigated the potential of Sargassum macrocarpum as an anti-inflammatory candidate for inflammatory skin disease. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities are desirable properties in such functional materials. The total polyphenol content as well as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were evaluated in hot-water (HES) and ethanol (EES) extracts of S. macrocarpum. The polyphenol content was higher in the HES (HES: 115.9 ± 15.3 mg GA/g, EES: 3.9 ± 0.5 mg GA/g), and the HES also had ABTS (HES: IC₅₀ 1.0 ± 0.0 mg/mL, EES: IC₅₀ 16.09 ± 0.7 mg/mL) and DPPH (HES: IC₅₀ 6.50 ± 0.3 mg/mL, EES: IC₅₀ 35.3 ± 3.1 mg/mL) radical scavenging capacities as well as FRAP activity (HES: IC₅₀ 18.8 ± 0.4 mg/mL, EES: IC₅₀ n.d.). Compared with the EES at the equivalent concentration range (1.25-20 μg/mL), the HES exerted a more potent inhibitory activity on LPS-stimulated nitric oxide (10.3-43.1%), IL-6 (15.7-45.0%), and TNF-α (14.1-20.8%) in RAW 264.7 macrophage cells in addition to TNF-α and IFN-γ-facilitated IL-6 (10.9-84.1%) and IL-8 (7.7-73.2%) in HaCaT keratinocytes. These results suggested that water-soluble materials might be deeply involved in the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in S. macrocarpum. General composition analysis indicated that the HES contains more carbohydrates and polyphenols than the EES, and the monosaccharide composition analysis suggested that fucose-containing sulfated polysaccharide and β-glucan might be potent anti-inflammatory candidates in the HES. The present study presents important preliminary results and a valuable strategy for developing novel anti-skin dermatitis candidates using a hot-water extract of S. macrocarpum.

Rosmarinus officinalis extract-loaded emulgel prevents UVB irradiation damage to the skin

UVB-irradiation increases the risk of various skin disorders, therefore leading to inflammation and oxidative stress. In this sense, antioxidant-rich herbs such as Rosmarinus officinalis may be useful in minimizing the damage promoted by reactive oxygen species. In this work, we report the efficacy of a R. officinalis hydroethanolic extract (ROe)-loaded emulgel in preventing UVB-related skin damage. Total phenols were determined using Folin-Ciocalteu assay, and the main phytocomponents in the extract were identified by UHPLC-HRMS. Moreover, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) value of ROe was also assessed, and we investigated the in vivo protective effect of an emulgel containing ROe against UVB-induced damage in an animal model. The ROe exhibited commercially viable SPF activity (7.56 ± 0.16) and remarkable polyphenolic content (24.15 ± 0.11 mg (Eq.GA)/g). HPLC-MS and UHPLC-HRMS results showcased that the main compounds in ROe were: rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid and carnosol. The evaluation of the in vitro antioxidant activity demonstrated a dose-dependent effect of ROe against several radicals and the capacity to reduce iron. Therefore, we demonstrated that topical application of the formulation containing ROe inhibited edema formation, myeloperoxidase activity, GSH depletion and maintained ferric reducing (FRAP) and ABTS scavenging abilities of the skin after UVB exposure.

Protective Effect of Bifidobacterium animalis subs. lactis MG741 as Probiotics against UVB-Exposed Fibroblasts and Hairless Mice

Skin photoaging, which causes wrinkles, increased epidermal thickness, and rough skin texture, is induced by ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure. These symptoms by skin photoaging have been reported to be involved in the reduction of collagen by the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and activator protein-1 (AP-1). This study investigated the protective effects of Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. lactis MG741 (Bi. lactis MG741) in Hs-68 fibroblasts and hairless mice (HR-1) following UVB exposure. We demonstrated that the Bi. lactis MG741 reduces wrinkles and skin thickness by downregulating MMP-1 and MMP-3, phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), and c-FOS in fibroblasts and HR-1. Additionally, in UVB-irradiated dorsal skin of HR-1, Bi. lactis MG741 inhibits the expression of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain-enhancer of activated B cells (NF-κB), an inflammation-related factor. Thus, Bi. lactis MG741 has the potential to prevent wrinkles and skin inflammation by modulating skin photoaging markers.

Purification and Identification of Antioxidant Peptides from Rice Fermentation of Lactobacillus plantarum and Their Protective Effects on UVA-Induced Oxidative Stress in Skin

Oxidative stress is an important factor on both aging and disease. Among foods endowed with beneficial healthy properties, rice is a very useful material, not only because it has a good amino acid ratio and produces antioxidant peptides through microbial fermentation, but also for its inexpensive availability. In this study, rice was treated with Lactobacillus plantarum, and the resulting mixture of small peptides with less than 11 amino acids (RFP) was extracted and purified from the fermentation broth. Subsequently, the antioxidant activity of RFP was assessed using the chemical model, cell biology, and animal model methods. RFP enhanced the expression of the antioxidant enzyme genes downstream of the KEAP1-NRF2/ARE pathway by promoting nuclear factor-erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) nuclear translocation while simultaneously removing lipid oxidation products and excess free radicals. These results suggest that RFP is a potential substance for resisting aging and disease caused by oxidative stress.

Collagen Fiber-Based Advanced Separation Materials: Recent Developments and Future Perspectives

Separation plays a critical role in a broad range of industrial applications. Developing advanced separation materials is of great significance for the future development of separation technology. Collagen fibers (CFs), the typical structural proteins, exhibit unique structural hierarchy, amphiphilic wettability, and versatile chemical reactivity. These distinctive properties provide infinite possibilities for the rational design of advanced separation materials. During the past 2 decades, many progressive achievements in the development of CFs-derived advanced separation materials have been witnessed already. Herein, the CFs-based separation materials are focused on and the recent progresses in this topic are reviewed. CFs widely existing in animal skins display unique hierarchically fibrous structure, amphiphilicity-enabled surface wetting behaviors, multi-functionality guaranteed covalent/non-covalent reaction versatility. These outstanding merits of CFs bring great opportunities for realizing rational design of a variety of advanced separation materials that were capable of achieving high-performance separations to diverse specific targets, including oily pollutants, natural products, metal ions, anionic contaminants and proteins, etc. Besides, the important issues for the further development of CFs-based advanced separation materials are also discussed.

Foods of the Mediterranean diet: citrus, cucumber and grape

Fruit and vegetables are excellent sources of health-promoting bioactive compounds and nutraceuticals. Regular consumption of fruit and vegetables helps prevent the onset and progression of many non-communicable diseases. The Mediterranean diet envisages consumption of healthy vegetables and fruit on a daily basis for maximum health benefits. Traditional use envisages vegetable-based and fruit-based diets, and many studies scientifically proved the beneficial effects of Mediterranean vegetables and fruits. Rich in bioactive phytochemicals, citrus, cucumbers and grapes have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, cardioprotective, anti-ageing and anti-cancer properties. Studies indicate that intake of citrus, cucumbers and grapes reduces hypertension, hyperlipidemia, skin problems and infections and improves the health of the cardiovascular and nervous systems. These beneficial effects are mediated by several bioactive molecules present in Mediterranean diet vegetables and fruits, such as citrus, cucumbers and grapes. Indeed, they contains flavones, isoflavones, tannins, polyphenols and many beneficial natural molecules. This review focuses on the bioactive ingredients in citrus fruit, cucumbers and grapes, all components of the Mediterranean diet, and their health effects. A deep understanding of Mediterranean diet's components, as well as clinical trials to test natural molecules beneficial effects, will permit to further explore the therapeutic potential of the Mediterranean diet in several pathological conditions.

Anti-inflammatory, cytotoxicity and antilipidemic properties: novel bioactivities of true cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum Blume) leaf

Background

The leaf of Ceylon cinnamon (true cinnamon) is traditionally claimed for a variety of health benefits. However, reported scientific information is scanty and needs urgent attention for value addition.

Methods

Ethanolic (95%) and Dichloromethane:Methanol (DM, 1:1 v/v) leaf extracts of Ceylon cinnamon were evaluated for a range of medically important bioactivities namely anti-inflammatory [nitric oxide scavenging activity (NOSA), superoxide scavenging activity (SCA), COX1 and COX2 inhibition], growth inhibition & cytotoxicity against MCF7, HePG2 and AN3CA carcinoma cell lines, glutathionase-S-transferase (GST) inhibition and antilipidemic (anti-HMG-CoA reductase, anti-lipase, anti-cholesterol esterase, and cholesterol micellization inhibition) properties in vitro (n = 3). Further, a range of bioactive compounds in both leaf extracts was also quantified (n = 3).

Results

Both leaf extracts had all the investigated bioactive compounds and possessed moderately potent bioactivities compared to the reference drugs used in the study. Ethanolic leaf extract (ELE) exhibited the highest activities (IC_50: μg/mL) for NOSA (40.26 ± 0.52), SCA (696.24 ± 40.02), cholesterol esterase inhibition (110.19 ± 1.55), cholesterol micellization inhibition (616.69 ± 7.09), GST inhibition (403.78 ± 2.70) and growth inhibition (GI₅₀: 144.84 ± 1.59-269.00 ± 0.51) & cytotoxicity (LC₅₀: 355.44 ± 9.38-717.71 ± 23.69) against studied cancer cell lines. In contrast, COX1 & COX2 (IC_50: 6.62 ± 0.85 and 44.91 ± 3.06 μg/mL) and HMG-CoA reductase & lipase inhibitory activities (36.72 ± 4.74 and 19.71 ± 0.97% inhibition at 200 and 600 μg/mL) were highest in DM extract. ELE also showed the highest quantities (0.81 ± 0.06-104.38 ± 1.79) of tested compounds (mg/g extract) where eugenol was the highest and gallic acid was the lowest among quantified.

Conclusion

Both leaf extracts of Ceylon cinnamon had all the tested bioactive compounds and possess all the investigated bioactivities. This is the 1st study to report all the investigated bioactivities of the leaf of Ceylon Cinnamon.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Extracts Derived from Fishery Industry Residues: Sardine Wastes and Codfish Frames

The fishery industry generates large amounts of waste (20–75% (w/w) of the total caught fish weight). The recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity and may contribute to a sustainable valorisation of the sector. In this work, protein-rich extracts obtained by high-pressure technologies (supercritical CO₂ and subcritical water) from sardine (Sardina pilchardus) waste and codfish (Gadus morhua) frames were characterized regarding their cosmeceutical potential. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial activities were evaluated through chemical (ORAC assay), enzymatic (inhibition of elastase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial susceptibility (Klebsiella pneumoniae, Staphylococcus aureus and Cutibacterium acnes) and cell-based (in keratinocytes-HaCaT) assays. Sardine extracts presented the highest antibacterial activity, and the extract obtained using higher extraction temperatures (250 °C) and without the defatting step demonstrated the lowest minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values (1.17; 4.6; 0.59 mg/mL for K. pneumoniae, S. aureus and C. acnes, respectively). Codfish samples extracted at lower temperatures (90 °C) were the most effective anti-inflammatory agents (a concentration of 0.75 mg/mL reduced IL-8 and IL-6 levels by 58% and 47%, respectively, relative to the positive control). Threonine, valine, leucine, arginine and total protein content in the extracts were highlighted to present a high correlation with the reported bioactivities (R² ≥ 0.7). These results support the potential application of extracts obtained from fishery industry wastes in cosmeceutical products with bioactive activities.

Trends and challenges in phytotherapy and phytocosmetics for skin aging

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Free radicals, oxidative stress, and inflammation contribute to the etiology of most chronic diseases.

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Natural products can be incorporated into cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics to tackle inflammation-related diseases.

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The use of alternative green extraction solvents such as natural deep eutectic solvents and electrochemically reduced water is trending.

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Delivery systems are important for the enhancement of the bioavailability, stability, solubility, and controlled release profile of the bioactives.

Oxidative stress and inflammation mostly contribute to aging and age-related conditions including skin aging. The potential of natural products in the form of naturally-derived cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics have, however, not been fully harnessed. This review, thus, critically analyzes the potential roles of natural products in inflammation-related skin aging diseases due to the increasing consumers’ concerns and demands for efficacious, safe, natural, sustainable, and religiously permitted alternatives to synthetic products. The information and data were collated from various resources and literature databases such as PubMed, Science Direct, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Scopus, Inflibnet, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords and Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). The role of green extraction solvents as promising alternatives is also elucidated. The potential enhancements of the bioavailability, stability, solubility and controlled release profile of the bioactives using different delivery systems are also presented. The current potential global market value, motivators, drivers, trends, challenges, halal, and other regulatory certifications for cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics are equally discussed. The adoption of the suggested extractions and delivery systems would enhance the stability, bioavailability, and target delivery of the bioactives.

The Nanostructured lipid carrier gel of Oroxylin A reduced UV-induced skin oxidative stress damage

Oxidative stress damage caused by sun exposure damages the appearance and function of the skin, which is one of the essential inducements of skin aging and even leads to skin cancer. Oroxylin A (OA) is a flavonoid with excellent antioxidant activity and has protective effects against photoaging induced by UV irradiation. However, the strong barrier function of the skin stratum corneum prevents transdermal absorption of the drug, which limits the application of OA in dermal drug delivery. Studies have shown that nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) can promote not only transdermal absorption of drugs but also increase drug stability and control drug release efficiency, which has broad prospects for clinical applications. In this paper, NLC loaded with OA (OA-NLC) was prepared in order to improve the skin permeability and stability of OA. In vitro studies revealed that OA-NLC had better therapeutic effects than OA solution (OA-Sol) in the cellular model of UVB radiation. OA-Sol and OA-NLC were immobilized in a hydrogel matrix to facilitate application to the dorsal skin of mice. It was found that OA-NLC-gel showed significant antioxidant and anti-apoptotic activity compared to OA-Sol-gel, which was able to protect against skin damage in mice after UV radiation. These results suggest that OA-NLC can improve the deficiencies of OA in skin delivery and show better resistance to UV-induced oxidative damage. The application of OA-NLC to skin delivery systems has good prospects and deserves further development and investigation.

Human placental extract activates a wide array of gene expressions related to skin functions

As skin aging is one of the most common dermatological concerns in recent years, scientific research has promoted treatment strategies aimed at preventing or reversing skin aging. Breakdown of the extracellular matrix (ECM), such as collagen and elastin fibers, in the skin results in decreased skin elasticity and tension. Cutaneous cells, especially fibroblasts in the dermis layer of the skin, mainly produce ECM proteins. Although clinical studies have demonstrated that placental extract (PE) has positive effects on skin health, the molecular mechanisms by which PE acts against skin aging are still largely unknown. In this study, we performed RNA-sequence analysis to investigate whether human PE (HPE) alters ECM-related gene expression in normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cells. Gene ontology analysis showed that genes related to extracellular matrix/structure organization, such as COL1A1, COL5A3, ELN, and HAS2 were highly enriched, and most of these genes were upregulated. We further confirmed that the HPE increased the type I collagen, proteoglycan versican, elastin, and hyaluronan levels in NHDF cells. Our results demonstrate that HPE activates global ECM-related gene expression in NHDF cells, which accounts for the clinical evidence that the HPE affects skin aging.

Effects of Collagen Hydrolysate From Large Hybrid Sturgeon on Mitigating Ultraviolet B-Induced Photodamage

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation leads to the excessive accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which subsequently promote inflammation, degradation of the extracellular matrix, and photoaging in skin. Thus antioxidant activity is particularly important when screening for active substances to prevent or repair photodamage. Marine fish-derived bioactive peptides have become a trend in cosmetics and functional food industries owing to their potential dermatological benefits. In this study, 1-diphenyl- 2-pycryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity was selected to optimize the hydrolysis conditions of sturgeon skin collagen peptides with antioxidant activity. The optimal hydrolysis conditions for sturgeon skin collagen hydrolysate (SSCH) were determined by response surface methodology, which comprised an enzyme dosage of flavorzyme at 6,068.4 U/g, temperature of 35.5°C, pH of 7, and hydrolysis time of 6 h. SSCH showed good radical-scavenging capacities with a DPPH scavenging efficiency of 95%. Then, the effect of low-molecular-weight SSCH fraction (SSCH-L) on UVB irradiation-induced photodamage was evaluated in mouse fibroblast L929 cells and zebrafish. SSCH-L reduced intracellular ROS levels and the malondialdehyde content, thereby alleviating the oxidative damage caused by UVB radiation. Moreover SSCH-L inhibited the mRNA expression of genes encoding the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, and Cox-2. SSCH-L treatment further increased the collagen Ⅰα1 content and had a significant inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinase expression. The phosphorylation level of JNK and the expression of c-Jun protein were significantly reduced by SSCH-L. Additionally, SSCH-L increased the tail fin area at 0.125 and 0.25 mg/ml in a zebrafish UVB radiation model, which highlighted the potential of SSCH-L to repair UVB-irradiated zebrafish skin damage. Peptide sequences of SSCH-L were identified by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. Based on the 3D-QSAR modeling prediction, six total peptides were selected to test the UVB-protective activity. Among these peptides, DPFRHY showed good UVB-repair activity, ROS-scavenging activity, DNA damage-protective activity and apoptosis inhibition activity. These results suggested that DPFRHY has potential applications as a natural anti-photodamage material in cosmetic and functional food industries.

Phytochemical and Potential Properties of Seaweeds and Their Recent Applications: A Review

Since ancient times, seaweeds have been employed as source of highly bioactive secondary metabolites that could act as key medicinal components. Furthermore, research into the biological activity of certain seaweed compounds has progressed significantly, with an emphasis on their composition and application for human and animal nutrition. Seaweeds have many uses: they are consumed as fodder, and have been used in medicines, cosmetics, energy, fertilizers, and industrial agar and alginate biosynthesis. The beneficial effects of seaweed are mostly due to the presence of minerals, vitamins, phenols, polysaccharides, and sterols, as well as several other bioactive compounds. These compounds seem to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, antimicrobial, and anti-diabetic activities. Recent advances and limitations for seaweed bioactive as a nutraceutical in terms of bioavailability are explored in order to better comprehend their therapeutic development. To further understand the mechanism of action of seaweed chemicals, more research is needed as is an investigation into their potential usage in pharmaceutical companies and other applications, with the ultimate objective of developing sustainable and healthier products. The objective of this review is to collect information about the role of seaweeds on nutritional, pharmacological, industrial, and biochemical applications, as well as their impact on human health.

Quercus suber: A Promising Sustainable Raw Material for Cosmetic Application

There is a drive within the cosmetic industry towards the development of more sustainable products, supported by consumer awareness of the environmental footprint. The cosmetic industry is rising to meet consumer demand by following practices, such as the use of by-products from agro-industrial waste. Quercus suber is a tree prevalent in the Mediterranean basin. The extraction of cork is considered sustainable, as this process does not harm the tree, and the amount of cork produced increases with the number of extractions. Beyond this, the cork industry produces by-products that are used to sustain the industry itself, such as cork powder, which is reused for generating energy. Additionally, cork and cork by-products contain bioactive compounds mainly with antioxidant activity that can be of use to the cosmetic industry, such as for antiaging, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, and depigmenting cosmetic products. We provide the reader with an overview of the putative cosmetic applications of cork and its by-products as well as of their bioactive compounds. It is noteworthy that only a few cork-based cosmetic products have reached the market, namely antiaging and exfoliant products. Clearly, the use of cork upcycled cosmetic ingredients will evolve in the future considering the wide array of biological activities already reported.

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) essential oil and oil-loaded nano-formulations as an anti-aging potentiality via TGFβ/SMAD pathway

Aging has become a concern for many people, especially women. Given that high-quality anti-aging products are of high cost; it has imperative to search for other economical sources. Essential oils are frequently used in cosmetics products due to a wide range of biological activities as well as their pleasant odor. The current study aimed to investigate the biochemical effect of the cosmetic potential of selected Apiaceous essential oils, traditionally used for skincare, by evaluating their anti-wrinkle activity. It is worth noting that, coriander essential oil showed the highest collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities compared to other Apiaceous oils (fennel, anise, and cumin). GC–MS proved that coriander essential oil showed a very high level of oxygenated monoterpenes, with linalool (81.29%) as the most abundant constituent. Intriguingly, coriander oil cream and Coriander Essential Oil-loaded Lipid Nanoparticles (CEOLNs) formulations attenuated in vivo UV-induced skin photoaging that was manifested by significantly decreased MDA, COX-2, PGE-2, MMP-1, JNK, and AP-1 levels. Moreover, these pharmaceutical dosage forms significantly increased skin collagen content compared to UV-injured group. Also, coriander essential oil significantly increased TGFβ, TGFβII, and SMAD3 protein expression levels compared to UV-injured group. In conclusion, the pharmaceutical dosage forms of coriander oil possess anti-wrinkle activities that could have an auspicious role in amending extrinsic aging.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

Determination of Flavonoids in Selected Scleranthus Species and Their Anti-Collagenase and Antioxidant Potential

A new 5,7-dihydroxy-3′-methoxy-4′-acetoxyflavone-8-C-β-d-arabinopyranoside-2″-O-(4‴-acetoxy)-glucoside (6) and three known flavone C-glycosides—5,7,3′,4′-tetrahydroxyflavone-6-C-xyloside-8-C-β-d-glucoside (lucenin-1) (7), 5,7,3′-trihydroxyflavone-6-C-glucoside-8-C-β-d-glucoside (vicenin-2) (8), and 5,7,4′-trihydroxy-3′-methoxyflavone-6-C-β-d-glucopyranoside-8-C-α-arabinopyranoside (chrysoeriol-6-C-β-d-glucopyranoside-8-C-α-arabinopyranoside) (9)—were isolated from aerial parts of Scleranthus perennis L. (Caryophyllaceae). Their structures were determined through the use of comprehensive spectroscopic and spectrometric methods, and a method for the quantification of the major constituents of S. perennis and S. annuus L. was developed. Furthermore, the anti-collagenase and antioxidant activities of all isolated compounds obtained from extracts and fractions from both Scleranthus species were evaluated. The highest percentage of collagenase inhibition (at 400 µg/mL) was distinguished for methanolic extracts (22.06%, 32.04%) and ethyl acetate fractions (16.59%, 14.40%) from S. annuus and S. perennis. Compounds 6–9 displayed moderate inhibitory activity, with IC₅₀ values ranging from 39.59–73.86 µM.

Phytochemical Analysis and Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, and Antiaging Activities of Ethanolic Seed Extracts of Four Mucuna Species

The investigation into promising botanical materials for natural cosmetics is expanding due to environmental and health awareness. Here, we aimed to evaluate the phytochemical substances and the potential skin-related pharmacological activities of four Mucuna seeds, namely M. gigantea (Willd.) DC. (MGG), M. interrupta Gagnep. (MIT), M. monosperma Wight (MMM), and M. pruriens (L.) DC. (MPR), belonging to the Fabaceae family. In methodology, the Mucuna seeds were authenticated using morphological and molecular approaches. L-DOPA, phenolics, and flavonoid content, incorporated with HPLC and GC–MS fingerprinting analyses, were determined. Then, skin-related antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antiaging activities were determined. The results revealed that MPR showed the highest L-DOPA content (75.94 mg/100 mg extract), whereas MGG exhibited the highest phenolic and flavonoid content (56.73 ± 0.62 mg gallic/g extract and 1030.11 ± 3.97 mg quercetin/g extract, respectively). Only MMM and MPR could inhibit all of S. aureus, S. epidermidis, and C. albicans, but no sample could inhibit C. acnes. Furthermore, all samples demonstrated antioxidant activity. Interestingly, all Mucuna samples exhibited strong collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities. We conclude that the ethanolic extracts of four Mucuna seeds are probably advantageous in the development of skincare cosmeceutical products.