Effects of scalp dermatitis on chemical property of hair keratin

Saccharide isomerate ameliorates cosmetic scalp conditions in a Chinese study population

BACKGROUND

Scalp conditions such as flaky or oily scalp affect people across ethnicities and age groups. In addition to flaking, increased sebum secretion, itching, and compromised scalp barrier function were described. Scalp conditions are aesthetically disturbing and may cause psychological distress in affected individuals who are looking for mild and effective treatment at the same time. Saccharide isomerate has a long history as a skin moisturizer, and it was found to improve skin barrier function, also suggesting possible beneficial effects on scalp.

AIMS

To provide relevant claim substantiation to introduce saccharide isomerate as a new scalp care active against scalp flaking condition.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

We conducted a placebo-controlled clinical study in an adult Chinese population affected by dandruff scalp as assessed by an adherent scalp flaking score. We monitored transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum secretion, and scalp flaking during 28 days.

RESULTS

Formulations containing Saccharide isomerate significantly improved all parameters both over time as well as compared to the placebo formulation.

CONCLUSION

We propose Saccharide isomerate for cosmetic formulations directed toward improving scalp conditions such as dandruff or oily scalp.

New approach for hair keratin characterization: use of the confocal Raman spectroscopy to assess the effect of a thermal stress on human hair fiber

OBJECTIVE

The objective of our research was to investigate the heat-protecting effect of a product ex vivo and in vivo on human hair fibers.

METHODS

A preparatory study was carried out in order to determine an optimal threshold of thermal stress. For this, the structure of cross-sections of the hair fiber was observed by optical microscopy. Then, Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) were applied to analyze ex vivo and in vivo morphological and molecular damage in hair structure after heat stress. Finally, in vivo tests were used to collect consumer perception.

RESULTS

The preparatory study enabled us to determine an optimal stress threshold of 10 heating cycle for SEM and 5 heating cycle for CRS. Based on spectral hierarchical classification using Ward's clustering algorithm, the ex vivo Raman results show that the spectral signature of the hair treated and heated is very close to the negative control. This shows that the product preserves the keratin structure after thermal stress. These results were also confirmed by an in vivo Raman analysis performed on hair samples from 5 donors. In concordance with Raman results, SEM show that treated hair present lesser "bubbles" and "crackling" on the hair surface. Finally, the in vivo studies proved that hair was more protected from the heat.

CONCLUSION

The authors concluded that the product shows protective properties with respect to morphological and molecular heat damage. We also demonstrate that the product promotes the α-helix keratin conformation and preserves the S-S disulfide bands.

Allergic Contact Dermatitis of the Scalp Associated With Scalp Applied Products: A Systematic Review of Topical Allergens

ABSTRACT

Hair products are commonly used to maintain hair health or cosmesis. Products applied to the scalp and hair contain multiple active and inactive ingredients that can potentially cause irritant and/or allergic contact dermatitis. The objectives of this study were to identify and to discuss the most common allergens in scalp and hair applied products causing scalp allergic contact dermatitis (ACD). A PubMed search identified 99 studies, with 3185 patients and 31 categories of scalp products. Hair products reportedly associated with scalp ACD were hair dyes (41%), shampoos (28%), and conditioners (22%). The most commonly reported patch test-positive allergens were p-phenylenediamine (23%), nickel (15%), fragrance mix (13%), balsam of Peru (10%), cocamidopropyl betaine/3-dimethylaminopropylamine (7%), and methylchloroisothiazolinone/methylisothiazolinone (6%). Common symptoms and signs include eczematous lesions, pruritus, and a burning sensation. Medical practitioners should be aware of causative agents to provide appropriate patient education, counseling, and/or treatment.

Role of Scalp Health in Achieving Optimal Hair Growth and Retention

We have conducted a thorough review of the literature to assess the evidence for supporting a cause-and-effect linkage between scalp condition and resultant hair condition. Over 20 epidemiological studies have been published covering a wide range of abnormal scalp conditions in which consequent impacts to the hair have been documented. A treatment study was conducted to demonstrate not only that impaired scalp condition led to impaired hair quality but that the impacts to hair are reversible upon normalization of the scalp condition. A proposed explanation involves the impact of scalp oxidative stress, which is part of the etiology of these scalp conditions as well as normal aging, in interfering with the normal keratinization of the pre-emergent hair cuticle. This perturbed cuticle impedes normal fiber anchorage and emerges more brittle and fragile than normal cuticle leading to accelerated physical degradation, mirroring the effects of chronological aging of the hair fiber. The consequences of the rapid cuticle degradation result in hair that is more vulnerable to mechanical insults and compromised overall quality.

Conformation changes in human hair keratin observed using confocal Raman spectroscopy after active ingredient application

OBJECTIVE

In hair care cosmetic products' evaluation, one commonly used method is to evaluate the hair appearance as a gold standard in order to determine the effect of an active ingredient on the final state of the hair via visual appreciation. Although other techniques have been proposed for a direct analysis of the hair fibres, they give only surface or structural information, without any accurate molecular information. A different approach based on confocal Raman spectroscopy has been proposed for tracking in situ the molecular change in the keratin directly in the human hair fibres. It presents a high molecular specificity to detect chemical interactions between molecules and can provide molecular information at various depths at the cortex and cuticle levels.

METHODS

To evaluate the potential of confocal Raman spectroscopy in testing the efficiency of cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure, we undertook a pilot study on the effectiveness of a smoothing shampoo on natural human hair, by analysing α-helix and β-sheet spectral markers in the Amide I band and spectral markers specific to the cystin sulfur content.

RESULTS

We confirmed that an active proved to be effective on a gold standard decreases α-helix keratin conformation and promotes β-sheet keratin conformation in the hair fibres. We also showed that treatment with the effective active decreases the intensity of covalent disulfide (S-S at 510 cm-1 ) cross-linking bands of cysteine. These data confirm that the effective active also acts on the tertiary structure of keratin.

CONCLUSION

From these experiments, we concluded that the effective active has a smoothing effect on the human hair fibres by acting on α-helix and β-sheet keratin conformation and on the tertiary structure of keratin. Based on these results, confocal Raman spectroscopy can be considered a powerful technique for investigating the influence of hair cosmetic ingredients on keratin structure in human hair fibres. Moreover, this analytical technique has the advantage of being non-destructive and label free; in addition, it does not require sample extraction or purification and it can be applied routinely in cosmetic laboratories.

Scalp Condition Impacts Hair Growth and Retention via Oxidative Stress

Conventionally, the medical focus has been either on hair loss or the condition of the scalp in terms of specific dermatological diseases. Indeed, the proximate structural arrangement of the scalp and hair leads to an interdependent relationship between the two. While protective benefits of the hair to the scalp are obvious, the role of the scalp as an incubatory environment for the preemergent hair fiber has largely been ignored. In fact, there is a wealth of observational data on specific dermatological conditions of the scalp providing evidence for the role of the scalp condition in supporting the production of healthy hair. Oxidative stress, the inability of the body to sufficiently counteract the sources of oxidation, is prevalent in many skin conditions, including normal skin aging. On the scalp, the hair appears to be impacted prior to emergence, and oxidative stress appears to play a role in premature hair loss. The scalp commensal organism, Malassezia, has been recognized to be a source of oxidative damage. Therefore, hair care products, specifically shampoos, with active Malassezia inhibitory agents, such as zinc pyrithione, tend to reduce premature hair loss, besides the known benefits in treating specific dermatologic scalp pathologies, and therefore should represent an integral part of every treatment regimen for hair loss, even in individuals not showing symptoms of scalp pathologies.

A Comment on the Science of Hair Aging

In contrast to the skin, aging of the hair has seemingly only recently found the attention of dermatological meetings, mainly promoted by the cosmetic industry for marketing purposes. In fact, basic scientists interested in the biology of hair growth and pigmentation have for some time already exposed the hair follicle as a highly accessible model with unique opportunities for the study of age-related effects. As a result, the science of hair aging focuses on two main streams of interest: the esthetic problem of aging hair and its management, in terms of age-related effects on hair color, quantity, and quality; and the biological problem of aging hair, in terms of microscopic, biochemical, and molecular changes underlying the aging process. Ultimately, the aim of hair anti-aging is to delay, lessen, or reverse the effects of aging on hair. According to the complex nature of the aging process, the treatment for lifetime scalp and hair health has to be holistic to include the multitude of contributing factors in a polyhedral and patient-specific manner. It comprises both medical treatments and hair cosmetics. Accordingly, the discovery of pharmacological targets and the development of safe and effective drugs for treatment of hair loss indicate strategies of the drug industry for maintenance of hair growth and quantity, while the hair care industry has become capable of delivering active compounds directed toward meeting the consumer demand for maintenance of hair cosmesis and quality. “Where there's life, there's hope” (Ecclesiastes 9:3-5).

Incubatory environment of the scalp impacts pre-emergent hair to affect post-emergent hair cuticle integrity

OBJECTIVES

To determine whether the oxidative stress transmitted to newly grown hair from an unhealthy scalp has physical consequences to the cuticular condition and function.

METHODS

A uniquely designed 24-week clinical study included 8 weeks of pretreatment with a cosmetic shampoo and 16 weeks of treatment with either a potentiated zinc pyrithione (ZPT) antidandruff shampoo or a placebo cosmetic shampoo. This clinical design allowed the growth and acquisition of hair samples under conditions of varying but known scalp health as a result of treating a dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis (D/SD) population. Two complementary methods were used to characterize the integrity of the cuticular surface. Hair surface hydrophobicity was assessed by quantifying water wetting force using a Wilhelmy balance method. Surface structure and porosity were assessed using dynamic vapor sorption (DVS) to gravimetrically quantify water sorption.

RESULTS

Chemical oxidative stress to pre-emergent hair has been shown to have negative consequences to hair surface structure. Compared to a placebo shampoo control, use of a potentiated ZPT shampoo improved scalp health and significantly improved the following attributes associated with healthy hair: hair surface hydrophobicity (surface energy) and cuticular moisture barrier effectiveness (dynamic vapor sorption).

CONCLUSIONS

Pre-emergent hair can be negatively impacted by the oxidative stress that occurs with an unhealthy scalp, possibly due to metabolic activity of resident microbes. Manifestations of the oxidative stress include altered cuticle surface properties that are responsible for its protective function; these effects are similar in type to those observed by bleaching post-emergent hair. These alterations have the potential to make the hair, once emerged from the scalp, more susceptible to the cumulative physical and chemical insults responsible for hair feel and look, fiber integrity, and overall retention.