In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and molecular dynamics analysis of penetration of retinyl acetate into stratum corneum

The effect of ceramides on skin absorption by Raman spectroscopy

INTRODUCTION

Ceramides are essential epidermal constituents that play a critical role in skin moisturization treatment as a raw material in cosmetics formulation. Recently, ceramides have been known to be frequently applied in various cosmetic formulations. Despite ceramide's beneficial characteristics, academic research regarding ceramides and their skin absorption remains insufficient. Therefore, our study conducted clinical research employing Raman spectroscopy to investigate the effects of ceramides on skin absorption to enhance the understanding of ceramides' dermatological functionality and their topical application in cosmetics science.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty healthy individuals with dry skin have participated in this clinical trial. In this double-arm designed trial, the test group received an investigational product with ceramides (5000 ppm) and a control group received an investigational product without the ceramides while all other components remained identical. The subjects visited the clinical research center and acclimatized for 30 min in constant humidity and temperature for equilibrium, subsequently conducting a measurement. Before the trial, the research subject's target site (lower arm area) was kept clean, devoid of any cosmetic administering 24 h before the trial when investigational product was topically applied.

RESULTS

Our findings with Raman spectroscopy statistically demonstrate that skin absorption amount, speed and depth for both groups improved overall (p < 0.05) after administration of the investigational product. Notably, the test group received an investigational product with ceramides (5000 ppm) indicating superior effectiveness across all parameters compared to a control group from comparison analysis of each parameter (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSION

This study concludes that ceramide-containing cosmetics provide a beneficial effect on skin absorption via visual and statistical results of Raman spectroscopy analysis.

Mechanisms of penetration and diffusion of drugs and cosmetic actives across the human Stratum corneum

Based on the structure of the Stratum corneum (SC) the potential penetration/diffusion pathways of drugs and cosmetic actives through the SC are presented and discussed. The well-known lipophilic pathway across the SC is presented and relevant examples are used to show that highly lipophilic molecules such as glucocorticoids, coenzyme Q10 etc. are accumulated in the SC and penetrate into the inner liquid like layer of the SC lipid bilayer by lateral diffusion. The diffusion into and across the SC of highly hydrophilic drugs and active substances such as urea, amino acids and peptides is still under discussion. Another diffusion pathway for the highly hydrophilic molecules via the corneocytes and the corneodesmosomes is presented and discussed, the corneocytary diffusion pathway.

A promising food-grade protector for Retinyl acetate emulsions with fibrillated egg white

This work presents a novel use of fibrous egg white protein (FEWP) in food preservation and nutraceutical applications. In this study, food-grade FEWP was used as an encapsulating material, along with chitosan (CS), to stabilize emulsions. The emulsion system was then used as a delivery system to improve the stability of retinyl acetate (RA). The structural and functional properties, as well as the stability and rheological behavior of the FEWP/CS copolymer, was investigated. The stability of RA-enriched emulsions was also evaluated. FEWP and CS stabilized emulsions exhibited smaller particle size and enhanced stability against different ionic strengths and storage periods. Additionally, RA-encapsulated emulsions stabilized by FEWP:CS (25:1 w/w) effectively inhibited apple browning. This study provides a promising strategy for delivering antioxidant components, highlighting its potential in food preservation and nutraceutical applications.

An Investigation into the Transdermal Behavior of Active Ingredients by Combination of Experiments and Multiscale Simulations

Transdermal behavior is a critical aspect of studying delivery systems and evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics. However, existing methods face challenges such as lengthy experiments, high cost, and limited model accuracy. Therefore, developing accurate transdermal models is essential for formulation development and effectiveness assessment. In this study, we developed a multiscale model to describe the transdermal behavior of active ingredients in the stratum corneum. Molecular dynamics simulations were used to construct lipid bilayers and determine the diffusion coefficients of active ingredients in different regions of these bilayers. These diffusion coefficients were integrated into a multilayer lipid pathway model using finite element simulations. The simulation results were in close agreement with our experimental results for three active ingredients (mandelic acid (MAN), nicotinamide (NIC), and pyruvic acid (PYR)), demonstrating the effectiveness of our multiscale model. This research provides valuable insights for advancing transdermal delivery methods.

Composition and structure analysis of different depths in the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy combined with two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy

The chemical composition and structure of the stratum corneum (SC) play a crucial role in the skin barrier function. Therefore, accurately determining the SC thickness and studying the changes in lipid and keratin structure and distribution within it are key aspects of skin barrier research. Currently, there are limited analytical tools and data analysis methods available for real-time and online studies of SC composition and structural changes. In this study, we focus on depth as a perturbation and employ confocal Raman microscopy combined with moving-window two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (MW2D) technique to investigate the SC thickness. Additionally, we employ confocal Raman microscopy combined with perturbation-correlation moving-window two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (PCMW2D) to precisely characterize the stratification of the SC. Furthermore, the two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (2DCOS) method is utilized to examine the content of various conformations in the keratin secondary structure within the SC, as well as the subtle interrelationships between lipid and keratin structures.

Optical Methods for Non-Invasive Determination of Skin Penetration: Current Trends, Advances, Possibilities, Prospects, and Translation into In Vivo Human Studies

Information on the penetration depth, pathways, metabolization, storage of vehicles, active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs), and functional cosmetic ingredients (FCIs) of topically applied formulations or contaminants (substances) in skin is of great importance for understanding their interaction with skin targets, treatment efficacy, and risk assessment-a challenging task in dermatology, cosmetology, and pharmacy. Non-invasive methods for the qualitative and quantitative visualization of substances in skin in vivo are favored and limited to optical imaging and spectroscopic methods such as fluorescence/reflectance confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM); two-photon tomography (2PT) combined with autofluorescence (2PT-AF), fluorescence lifetime imaging (2PT-FLIM), second-harmonic generation (SHG), coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), and reflectance confocal microscopy (2PT-RCM); three-photon tomography (3PT); confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy (CRM); surface-enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) micro-spectroscopy; stimulated Raman scattering (SRS) microscopy; and optical coherence tomography (OCT). This review summarizes the state of the art in the use of the CLSM, 2PT, 3PT, CRM, SERS, SRS, and OCT optical methods to study skin penetration in vivo non-invasively (302 references). The advantages, limitations, possibilities, and prospects of the reviewed optical methods are comprehensively discussed. The ex vivo studies discussed are potentially translatable into in vivo measurements. The requirements for the optical properties of substances to determine their penetration into skin by certain methods are highlighted.

Methodologies to Evaluate the Hair Follicle-Targeted Drug Delivery Provided by Nanoparticles

Nanotechnology has been investigated for treatments of hair follicle disorders mainly because of the natural accumulation of solid nanoparticles in the follicular openings following a topical application, which provides a drug "targeting effect". Despite the promising results regarding the therapeutic efficacy of topically applied nanoparticles, the literature has often presented controversial results regarding the targeting of hair follicle potential of nanoformulations. A closer look at the published works shows that study parameters such as the type of skin model, skin sections analyzed, employed controls, or even the extraction methodologies differ to a great extent among the studies, producing either unreliable results or precluding comparisons altogether. Hence, the present study proposes to review different skin models and methods for quantitative and qualitative analysis of follicular penetration of nano-entrapped drugs and their influence on the obtained results, as a way of providing more coherent study protocols for the intended application.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Perspective of Future SERS Clinical Application Based on Current Status of Raman Spectroscopy Clinical Trials

Raman spectroscopy has emerged as a promising tool in biomedical analysis and clinical diagnosis. The development of surface-enhanced Raman scattering spectroscopy (SERS) improved the detection limit with ultrahigh sensitivity and simplicity. More and more Raman spectroscopy clinical trials (R-PCT) have been conducted recently. However, there is a lack of an up-to-date review summarizing the current status of Raman clinical trials performed until now. Hence, the clinical trials for Raman were retrieved from the International Clinical Trials Registration Platform. We summarized the clinical characteristics of 55 registered Raman spectroscopy clinical trials (R-RSCTs) and 44 published Raman spectroscopy clinical trials (P-RSCTs). This review could assist researchers and clinicians to understand the current status of Raman spectroscopy clinical research and perhaps could benefit the reasonable and accurate design of future SERS studies.

In-Line and Off-Line Monitoring of Skin Penetration Profiles Using Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

Ex-vivo and in-vivo skin analysis has been extensively evaluated by confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS). The off-line measurement with a CRS-suited skin-mounted device after Franz-cell incubations is the most popular choice. However, real-time monitoring of in-line measurement has clear advantages for obtaining dynamic and more timely results. In our study, a custom-built setup suitable for in-line measurements was implemented, which ensures constant skin incubation and in-situ skin detections. We aim to compare the differences between using in-line and off-line devices for monitoring skin drug penetrations. A well-assessed formulation gel with procaine-HCl as the active ingredient was used as reference. The PEG-23 lauryl ether was added to the formulation as a penetration enhancer to evaluate the enhancement effects of procaine on skin. After incubation times of 14, 20, and 24 h, skin penetration profiles were assessed. Comparable results between off-line and in-line measurements were obtained. Remarkable improvements in penetrated procaine amount and depth were observed. Based on the significant differences of their enhanced penetration amounts, fairly similar estimations were achieved from both methods. A slight difference of 14 h incubation between these two setups can still be found, which may be due to the different detection conditions and affected skin properties. Overall, in-line measurements could provide a more time- and labor-saving alternative for off-line measurements in ex-vivo study.

The application of label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research for deeper mechanism revealing

The penetration behavior of topical substances in the skin not only relates to the transdermal delivery efficiency but also involves the safety and therapeutic effect of topical products, such as sunscreen and hair growth products. Researchers have tried to illustrate the transdermal process with diversified theories and technologies. Directly observing the distribution of topical substances on skin by characteristic imaging is the most convincing approach. Unfortunately, fluorescence labeling imaging, which is commonly used in biochemical research, is limited for transdermal research for most topical substances with a molecular mass less than 500 Da. Label-free imaging technologies possess the advantages of not requiring any macromolecular dyes, no tissue destruction and an extensive substance detection capability, which has enabled rapid development of such technologies in recent years and their introduction to biological tissue analysis, such as skin samples. Through the specific identification of topical substances and endogenous tissue components, label-free imaging technologies can provide abundant tissue distribution information, enrich theoretical and practical guidance for transdermal drug delivery systems. In this review, we expound the mechanisms and applications of the most popular label-free imaging technologies in transdermal research at present, compare their advantages and disadvantages, and forecast development prospects.

Laser scanning microscopy for control of skin decontamination efficacy from airborne particulates using highly absorbent textile nanofiber material in combination with PEG-12 dimethicone

BACKGROUND

The decontamination of the skin is indispensable if airborne particulate contaminants deposit on the skin surface. Skin washing can have adverse effects as by skin rubbing the particles can be transferred deeply into the hair follicles, where they can be entrapped for a period of more than 10 days. Thus, alternative skin decontamination strategies are necessary.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

For imaging the contaminants in the skin, sodium fluorescein-labeled soot particles of submicron size (≈600 nm) were visualized using laser scanning microscopy.

RESULTS

In the present ex vivo pilot study on porcine ear skin, it was shown that sodium fluorescein-labeled soot particles of submicron size (≈600 nm) could be efficiently removed from the skin with highly absorbent textile nanofiber material, whose efficacy could be further increased by spraying the contaminated skin area with the viscous fluid PEG-12 dimethicone before textile application.

CONCLUSION

In case of skin contamination with particulates, the contact washing should be avoided due to rubbing particles deeply into the hair follicles, where they can accumulate for a long time and induce negative consequences. Efficient skin decontamination could include pretreatment of skin surface with the viscous fluid PEG-12 dimethicone and subsequent application of highly absorbent textile nanofiber material.

Imaging and quantifying drug delivery in skin - Part 2: Fluorescence andvibrational spectroscopic imaging methods

Understanding the delivery and diffusion of topically-applied drugs on human skin is of paramount importance in both pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. This information is critical in early stages of drug development and allows the identification of the most promising ingredients delivered at optimal concentrations to their target skin compartments. Different skin imaging methods, invasive and non-invasive, are available to characterize and quantify the spatiotemporal distribution of a drug within ex vivo and in vivo human skin. The first part of this review detailed invasive imaging methods (autoradiography, MALDI and SIMS). This second part reviews non-invasive imaging methods that can be applied in vivo: i) fluorescence (conventional, confocal, and multiphoton) and second harmonic generation microscopies and ii) vibrational spectroscopic imaging methods (infrared, confocal Raman, and coherent Raman scattering microscopies). Finally, a flow chart for the selection of imaging methods is presented to guide human skin ex vivo and in vivo drug delivery studies.

Methods to Evaluate Skin Penetration In Vitro

Dermal and transdermal drug therapy is increasing in importance nowadays in drug development. To completely utilize the potential of this administration route, it is necessary to optimize the drug release and skin penetration measurements. This review covers the most well-known and up-to-date methods for evaluating the cutaneous penetration of drugs in vitro as a supporting tool for pharmaceutical research scientists in the early stage of drug development. The aim of this article is to present various experimental models used in dermal/transdermal research and summarize the novel knowledge about the main in vitro methods available to study skin penetration. These techniques are: Diffusion cell, skin-PAMPA, tape stripping, two-photon microscopy, confocal laser scanning microscopy, and confocal Raman microscopic method.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.

Following-up skin penetration of lidocaine from different vehicles by Raman spectroscopic mapping

The application of local anesthetics, usually administered by subcutaneous injection, is common in the course of diagnostic, therapeutic, and cosmetic dermatology procedures. The effective dermal delivery of lidocaine could offer a solution to many adverse effects caused by needle insertion, such as pain, local reactions or toxicity, and additionally, it avoids the disruption of anatomical landmarks. Therefore, novel dermal formulations of local anesthetics are needed to overcome the barrier function of the skin and provide sufficient and prolonged anesthesia. In our study, we aimed to investigate and compare the penetration profiles of four different lidocaine containing formulations (hydrogel, oleogel, lyotropic liquid crystal and nanostructured lipid carrier) by Raman microscopic mapping of the drug. The application of Raman spectroscopy provided information about the spatial distribution of lidocaine in the skin ex vivo. The penetration of lidocaine from lyotropic liquid crystal and nanostructured carrier reached deeper skin layers and a higher amount of the drug was diffused into the skin, compared with hydrogel and oleogel. This study confirmed that nanostructured carriers can improve skin penetration properties of lidocaine and proved the applicability of Raman spectroscopy in the research of dermatological preparations ex vivo as a nondestructive, relatively easy and fast technique.

Influence of Temperature on Transdermal Penetration Enhancing Mechanism of Borneol: A Multi-Scale Study

The influence of temperature on the transdermal permeation enhancing mechanism of borneol (BO) was investigated using a multi-scale method, containing a coarse-grained molecular dynamic (CG-MD) simulation, an in vitro permeation experiment, and a transmission electron microscope (TEM) study. The results showed that BO has the potential to be used as a transdermal penetration enhancer to help osthole (OST) penetrate into the bilayer. With the increasing temperature, the stratum corneum (SC) becomes more flexible, proving to be synergistic with the permeation enhancement of BO, and the lag time (T_Lag) of BO and OST are shortened. However, when the temperature increased too much, with the effect of BO, the structure of SC was destroyed; for example, a water pore was formed and the micelle reversed. Though there were a number of drugs coming into the SC, the normal bilayer structure was absent. In addition, through comparing the simulation, in vitro experiment, and TEM study, we concluded that the computer simulation provided some visually detailed information, and the method plays an important role in related studies of permeation.