Safety assessment of starch-based personal care products: Nanocapsules and pickering emulsions

Topical pickering emulsion versus classical excipients: A study of the residual film on the human skin

The interest in Pickering emulsions is based on the possibility of replacing classical emulsifiers with solid particles. These emulsions are very attractive in the pharmaceutical field for their stability virtues and as a vehicle to deliver active ingredients. The study aimed to analyze the properties of the residual film of the Pickering emulsions on the human skin compared to conventional systems. For this project, three types of solid particles were used: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide. All of them are capable of stabilizing the oil/water interface and thus forming totally emulsified systems. To create an emulsion of reference, a classical surfactant was used as an excipient. Complementary systems containing both particles and the emulsifier were also analyzed. Then, a combined approach between physicochemical and biometrological in vivo analysis was employed. The study proved that Pickering emulsions stabilized by the metal oxides were distinct from the reference emulsion in terms of droplet sizes and organization, rheological and textural responses. Consequently, it impacted the properties of the residual film once the product was applied to the skin. The particle-stabilized emulsions formed a hydrophobic film counter to conventional excipients. Also, the Friction parameter (or the roughness of the film) was directly linked to the quantity of the particles used in the formulation and their perception on the skin surface. The use of the particles blurs the glossy effect of the oil phase. Finally, it was observed that the appearance of the residual film was impacted by the type of the particle, namely TiO2 and ZnO particles.

Sustainable Alternatives to Petroleum-Derived Excipients in Pharmaceutical Oil-in-Water Creams

Recently, vast efforts towards sustainability have been made in the pharmaceutical industry. In conventional oil-in-water (O/W) cream formulations, various petroleum-based excipients, namely mineral oil and petrolatum, are commonly used. Natural or synthetic excipients, derived from vegetable sources, were explored as alternatives to petroleum-based excipients in prototype topical creams, with 1% (w/w) lidocaine. A conventional cream comprised of petroleum-derived excipients was compared to creams containing sustainable excipients in terms of key quality and performance attributes, physicochemical properties, and formulation performance. The petrolatum-based control formulation had the highest viscosity of 248.0 Pa·s, a melting point of 42.7°C, a low separation index at 25°C of 0.031, and an IVRT flux of 52.9 µg/cm2/h. Formulation SUS-4 was the least viscous formulation at 86.9 Pa·s, had the lowest melting point of 33.6°C, the highest separation index of 0.120, and the highest IVRT flux of 139.4 µg/cm2/h. Alternatively, SUS-5 had a higher viscosity of 131.3 Pa·s, a melting point of 43.6°C, a low separation index of 0.046, and the lowest IVRT flux of 25.2 µg/cm2/h. The cumulative drug permeation after 12 h from SUS-4, SUS-5, and the control were 126.2 µg/cm2, 113.8 µg/cm2, and 108.1 µg/cm2, respectively. The composition of the oil-in-water creams had influence on physicochemical properties and drug release; however, skin permeation was not impacted. Sustainable natural or synthetic excipients in topical cream formulations were found to be suitable alternatives to petroleum-based excipients with comparable key quality attributes and performance attributes and should be considered during formulation development.

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.

Stability, oxidizability, and topical delivery of resveratrol encapsulated in octenyl succinic anhydride starch/chitosan complex-stabilized high internal phase Pickering emulsions

High internal phase Pickering emulsions (HIPPEs) stabilized with octenyl succinic anhydride starch/chitosan complexes were examined as a topical delivery vehicle for resveratrol. All resveratrol-loaded HIPPEs showed stable gel-like network structures, with the droplet size and microrheological properties largely dependent on the complex concentrations. HIPPEs exhibited strong stability when subjected to light, high temperature, UV radiation and freeze-thaw treatment, and resveratrol retention was greatly improved with the increasing addition of complexes and resveratrol. High amounts of resveratrol facilitated the antioxidant activity of HIPPEs, whereas sustained release of resveratrol was mainly related to the existence of complex interfacial layers. Moreover, HIPPEs overcome the stratum corneum barrier, with an approximately 3-5-fold increase in resveratrol deposition in deep skin compared to bulk oil. In conclusion, the emulsion composition (especially at the particle level) was vital for the effectiveness of HIPPEs as a carrier, which may provide new opportunities to design topical delivery systems.

Unconventional and conventional Pickering emulsions: Perspectives and challenges in skin applications

Pickering emulsions are free from molecular and classical surfactants and are stabilized by solid particles, creating long-term stability against emulsion coalescence. Additionally, these emulsions are both environmentally and skin-friendly, creating new and unexplored sensorial perceptions. Although the literature mostly describes conventional emulsions (oil-in-water), there are unconventional emulsions (multiple, oil-in-oil and water-in-water) with excellent prospects and challenges in skin application as oil-free systems, permeation enhancers and topical drug delivery agents, with various possibilities in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, up to now, these conventional and unconventional Pickering emulsions are not yet available as commercial products. This review brings to the discussion some important aspects such as the use of phases, particles, rheological and sensorial perception, as well as current trends in the development of these emulsions.

Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: A comparative study on effects of excipients

Rising consumer demands for safer, more natural, and sustainable topical products have led to increased interest in finding alternative excipients, while retaining functionality and cosmetic appeal. Particle-stabilized Pickering creams have emerged as possible alternatives to replace traditional surfactant-stabilized creams and are thus one of the focuses in this study. The aim of this paper was to study relationships between sensorial characteristics and physical properties to understand how different excipients affect these aspects, comparing one starch particle-stabilized and three surfactant-stabilized formulations. A human panel was used to evaluate sensorial perception, while physical properties were deduced by rheology and tactile friction, together with in vivo and ex vivo skin hydration measurements. The results show that sensorial attributes related to the application phase can be predicted with rheology, while afterfeel attributes can be predicted with tactile friction studies. Differences in rheological and sensory properties among surfactant-based creams could mainly be attributed to the type of emollients used, presence of thickeners and surfactant composition. Differences between surfactant-based creams and a Pickering cream were more evident in relation to the afterfeel perception. Presence of starch particles in the residual film on skin results in high tactile friction and low perception of residual coating, stickiness, greasiness, and slipperiness in sensorial afterfeel.

Microfluidic production of monodisperse emulsions for cosmetics

Droplet-based microfluidic technology has enabled the production of emulsions with high monodispersity in sizes ranging from a few to hundreds of micrometers. Taking advantage of this technology, attempts to generate monodisperse emulsion drops with high drug loading capacity, ordered interfacial structure, and multi-functionality have been made in the cosmetics industry. In this article, we introduce the practicality of the droplet-based microfluidic approach to the cosmetic industry in terms of innovation in productivity and marketability. Furthermore, we summarize some recent advances in the production of emulsion drops with enhanced mechanical interfacial stability. Finally, we discuss the future prospects of microfluidic technology in accordance with consumers' needs and industrial attributes.

A mathematical modeling strategy to predict the spreading behavior on skin of sustainable alternatives to personal care emollients

Spreadability is one of the most important physicochemical properties of cosmetic products, according to the consumer. Thus, it is fundamental to develop strategies with the aim to improve the knowledge and predict the behavior of alternatives to synthetic emollients. The main goal of this research article was to correlate different physicochemical attributes, namely spreading value, apparent viscosity, density, saponification value, iodine value, peroxide value, acid value and melting range, with the spreading behavior of sustainable alternatives for petrolatum and dimethicone. The sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed, and the models were built by forward selection. The two adjusted and optimized models include viscosity and density as parameters and, in the petrolatum case, the model further includes the melting range, which was also validated as a significant predictor. Furthermore, it was also possible to compare the data obtained with the consumer's perception of the spreading behavior of the studied raw materials. A strong correlation was observed, suggesting that these tools mirror the consumer opinion. The application of these mathematical models is a valuable tool to assist the entire replacement process, which usually is a time-consuming procedure.

Replacing Synthetic Ingredients by Sustainable Natural Alternatives: A Case Study Using Topical O/W Emulsions

With the increasing debate on sustainability, there is a strong market trend to formulate more sustainable products for topical application. Several studies emphasize the potential applications of natural, organic, or green chemistry-derived ingredients, but comparative studies between conventional ingredients and sustainable alternatives are lacking. This type of study is considered an excellent baseline and time-saving strategy for future studies. In addition, one of the main challenges of replacing ingredients by sustainable alternatives in topical vehicles is to maintain high-quality products. Thus, the main goal of this research study was to create a well-defined strategy supported by specific experimental data for the development of sustainable topical vehicles with high-quality standards. The study was designed to evaluate the effects of replacing conventional ingredients (e.g., hydrocarbons, silicones, and preservatives) by sustainable ones on the physical, chemical, and microbiological features of topical emulsions. Additionally, in vivo assessment studies were performed to evaluate the safety, biological efficacy, and sensorial aspects of the developed formulations. The results obtained showed that the replacement of ingredients by sustainable alternatives has an effective impact on the physicochemical and structural properties of the emulsions, mainly on their rheological behavior. However, using appropriate strategies for ingredient selection and rheological adjustment, it is possible to overcome some barriers created by the use of natural raw materials, thus developing appealing and high-quality sustainable topical vehicles.

Pickering Emulsions Stabilized by Calcium Carbonate Particles: A New Topical Formulation

Pickering emulsions are systems composed of two immiscible fluids stabilized by solid organic or inorganic particles. Pickering emulsions are particularly useful in cosmetics, where the surfactants are unwanted, as well as in the pharmaceutical field, where transdermal and/or dermal drug delivery is difficult to achieve and controlled drug release is desired. Here, we studied calcium carbonate particles as stabilizers of Pickering emulsions for topical use. An optimized formulation was obtained using a Quality by Design approach. First, a screening experiment was performed to identify the formulation and process critical variables that affect the quality properties of the Pickering emulsion. The optimization of the production was then studied by establishing the design space. The final formulation was hereinafter investigated regarding the pH, rheological properties, and in vitro cytotoxicity assays. The results showed the formulation had a pH compatible with human skin and a shear thinning behavior. Moreover, this formulation showed a strong network structure, with a suitable spreadability on the skin, allowing an easy application. The in vitro assays were performed to assess the potential cytotoxicity of the calcium carbonate-stabilized emulsion and the particles themselves, and the results revealed that the formulation did not significantly affect the cell viability. In conclusion, the use of calcium carbonate particles as a stabilizer ingredient contributed to achieve an eco-friendly Pickering emulsion.

Effects of Starch Incorporation on the Physicochemical Properties and Release Kinetics of Alginate-Based 3D Hydrogel Patches for Topical Delivery

The development of printable hydrogel inks for extrusion-based 3D printing is opening new possibilities to the production of new and/or improved pharmaceutical forms, specifically for topical application. Alginate and starch are natural polysaccharides that have been extensively exploited due to their biocompatibility, biodegradability, viscosity properties, low toxicity, and relatively low cost. This research work aimed to study the physicochemical and release kinetic effects of starch incorporation in alginate-based 3D hydrogel patches for topical delivery using a quality by design approach. The incorporation of a pregelatinized starch is also proposed as a way to improve the properties of the drug delivery system while maintaining the desired quality characteristics. Critical material attributes and process parameters were identified, and the sensitivity and adequacy of each parameter were statistically analyzed. The impact of alginate, starch, and CaCl₂·2H₂O amounts on relevant quality attributes was estimated crosswise. The amount of starch revealed a synergetic impact on porosity (p = 0.0021). An evident increase in the size and quantity of open pores were detected in the as printed patches as well as after crosslinking (15.6 ± 5.2 µm). In vitro drug release studies from the optimized alginate-starch 3D hydrogel patch, using the probe Rhodamine B, showed an initial high burst release, followed by a controlled release mechanism. The results obtained also showed that the viscoelastic properties, printing accuracy, gelation time, microstructure, and release rates can be modulated by varying the amount of starch added to the system. Furthermore, these results can be considered an excellent baseline for future drug release modulation strategies.

Polymeric Nanocapsules as Nanotechnological Alternative for Drug Delivery System: Current Status, Challenges and Opportunities

Polymer-based nanocapsules have been widely studied as a potential drug delivery system in recent years. Nanocapsules-as one of kind nanoparticle-provide a unique nanostructure, consisting of a liquid/solid core with a polymeric shell. This is of increasing interest in drug delivery applications. In this review, nanocapsules delivery systems studied in last decade are reviewed, along with nanocapsule formulation, characterizations of physical/chemical/biologic properties and applications. Furthermore, the challenges and opportunities of nanocapsules applications are also proposed.

Sustainability Calculator: A Tool to Assess Sustainability in Cosmetic Products

Assessing sustainability is extremely necessary and appears as an industrial need and requirement in order to facilitate decision making and to evaluate the impacts of existing strategies, products and technologies. Thus, the main goal of this research was to develop a sustainability calculator based on the opinion of experts that work in the different branches of the cosmetic industry, in order to cover the entire life cycle of a cosmetic product. A detailed survey in which all the steps of a cosmetic product life cycle were addressed, was designed and applied to cosmetic professionals. The data obtained with the survey was statistically analysed for the positive and negative impacts of each parameter on sustainability. The analysed data allowed the creation of a Microsoft Excel tool that mirrors the experts’ opinion. A proof of concept was also designed in order to prove the usefulness of the tool. The results show that there are no raw materials and/or packaging materials and practices, that can be considered 100% sustainable. However, with the appropriate strategies, it is possible to drastically decrease the impacts of any type of cosmetic product on sustainability. This is a promising tool that includes the three dimensions of sustainability in a simple, fast, objective and interactive way for the user. Its application will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision.

Effect of Trust in Domain-Specific Information of Safety, Brand Loyalty, and Perceived Value for Cosmetics on Purchase Intentions in Mobile E-Commerce Context

In 2016, the safety issues of humidifier disinfectants and some other safety incidents in personal cares caused chemical phobia syndrome in the Korean society. This series of events has created a trend for cosmetic consumers to undermine brand confidence and to self-check the safety of commercial cosmetic formulations through mobile apps. The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of trust in domain specific information on the safety rating of cosmetic ingredients on the perceived value and the purchase intention of the cosmetics. The results of structural equation modeling showed that involvement of skin safety (ISS) had a positive effect on trust in domain specific information on safety (TDSI) and brand loyalty (BL). TDSI showed a positive effect on the perceived safety value (PFV) and the perceived social value (PSV), and BL had a positive effect on the PSV. ISS, TDSI, and PSV had a positive effect on the purchase intention (PI) of green-grade cosmetics (GGC). As hypothesized, BL had an adverse effect on PI of GGC. Given the results, utilizing the signal of the domain specific information may be recommended to new entrants to the cosmetic business or manufacturers with relatively weak brand power.

Design and Characterization of a New Quercus Suber-Based Pickering Emulsion for Topical Application

Quercus Suber Bark from Quercus suber L. is a natural, renewable and biodegradable biomaterial with multifunctional proprieties. In this study, we used it as solid particles to stabilize a Pickering emulsion. The main goal was to produce an optimized topical formulation using biocompatible organic particles as stabilizers of the emulsion instead of the common surfactants, whilst benefiting from Quercus suber L. proprieties. In this work, a Quality by Design (QbD) approach was successfully applied to the production of this emulsion. A screening design was conducted, identifying the critical variables of the formula and process, affecting the critical quality attributes of the emulsion (droplet size distribution). The optimization of the production was made through the establishment of the design space. The stability was also investigated during 30 days, demonstrating that Quercus Suber Bark-stabilized emulsions are stable since the droplet size distribution lowers. In vitro studies were performed to assess antioxidant and antiaging efficacy, which revealed that the formulation had indeed antioxidant proprieties. A physicochemical characterization demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning fluid, ideal for topical administration. The in vivo compatibility study confirmed that the final formulation is not skin irritant, being safe for human use. A sensorial analysis was also performed, using a simple sensory questionnaire, revealing very positive results. Thus, the use of Quercus Suber Bark particles as a multifunctional solid ingredient contributed to achieve a stable, effective and innovative Pickering emulsion with a meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress.