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Liu JK. Natural products in cosmetics. NATURAL PRODUCTS AND BIOPROSPECTING 2022; 12:40. [PMID: 36437391 PMCID: PMC9702281 DOI: 10.1007/s13659-022-00363-y] [Citation(s) in RCA: 31] [Impact Index Per Article: 15.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/11/2022] [Accepted: 11/11/2022] [Indexed: 05/14/2023]
Abstract
The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ji-Kai Liu
- Wuhan Institute of Health, Shenzhen Moore Vaporization Health & Medical Technology Co., Ltd., Wuhan, 430074, People's Republic of China.
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, South-Central University for Nationalities, Wuhan, 430074, People's Republic of China.
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2
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Murphy B, Hoptroff M, Arnold D, Eccles R, Campbell-Lee S. In-vivo impact of common cosmetic preservative systems in full formulation on the skin microbiome. PLoS One 2021; 16:e0254172. [PMID: 34234383 PMCID: PMC8263265 DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0254172] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/23/2021] [Accepted: 06/22/2021] [Indexed: 01/04/2023] Open
Abstract
Preservatives play an essentially role in ensuring that cosmetic formulations remain safe for use via control of microbial contamination. Commonly used preservatives include organic acids, alcohols and phenols and these play an essential role in controlling the growth of bacteria, fungi and moulds in substrates that can potentially act as a rich food source for microbial contaminants. Whilst the activity of these compounds is clear, both in vitro and in formulation, little information exists on the potential impact that common preservative systems, in full formulation, have on the skin's resident microbiome. Dysbiosis of the skin's microbiome has been associated with a number of cosmetic conditions but there currently are no in vivo studies investigating the potential for preservative ingredients, when included in personal care formulations under normal use conditions, to impact the cutaneous microbiome. Here we present an analysis of four in vivo studies that examine the impact of different preservation systems in full formulation, in different products formats, with varying durations of application. This work demonstrates that despite the antimicrobial efficacy of the preservatives in vitro, the skin microbiome is not impacted by preservative containing products in vivo.
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Affiliation(s)
- Barry Murphy
- Unilever Research & Development, Port Sunlight, Bebington, Wirral, England, United Kingdom
| | - Michael Hoptroff
- Unilever Research & Development, Port Sunlight, Bebington, Wirral, England, United Kingdom
| | - David Arnold
- Unilever Research & Development, Port Sunlight, Bebington, Wirral, England, United Kingdom
| | - Richard Eccles
- Institute of Infection, Veterinary, and Ecological Sciences, University of Liverpool, Liverpool, England, United Kingdom
| | - Stuart Campbell-Lee
- Unilever Research & Development, Port Sunlight, Bebington, Wirral, England, United Kingdom
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3
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Matwiejczuk N, Galicka A, Brzóska MM. Review of the safety of application of cosmetic products containing parabens. J Appl Toxicol 2021; 40:176-210. [PMID: 31903662 DOI: 10.1002/jat.3917] [Citation(s) in RCA: 65] [Impact Index Per Article: 21.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/30/2019] [Accepted: 10/01/2019] [Indexed: 12/11/2022]
Abstract
Cosmetics are a source of lifetime exposure to various substances including parabens, being the most popular synthetic preservatives. Because the use of cosmetics shows an increasing trend and some adverse health outcomes of parabens present in these products have been reported, the present review focused on the safety of dermal application of these compounds. Special attention has been paid to the absorption of parabens and their retention in the human body in the intact form, as well as to their toxicological characteristics. Particular emphasis has been placed on the estrogenic potential of parabens. Based on the available published data of the concentrations of parabens in various kinds of cosmetics, the average ranges of systemic exposure dose (SED) for methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben have been calculated. Safety evaluations [margin of safety (MoS)] for these compounds, based on their aggregate exposure, have also been performed. Moreover, evidence for the negative impact of methylparaben on skin cells has been provided, and the main factors that may intensify dermal absorption of parabens and their impact on the skin have been described. Summarizing, the use of single cosmetics containing parabens should not pose a hazard for human health; however, using excessive quantities of cosmetic preparations containing these compounds may lead to the development of unfavorable health outcomes. Due to the real risk of estrogenic effects, as a result of exposure to parabens in cosmetics, simultaneous use of many cosmetic products containing these preservatives should be avoided.
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Affiliation(s)
- Natalia Matwiejczuk
- Department of Medical Chemistry, Medical University of Białystok, Bialystok, Poland
| | - Anna Galicka
- Department of Medical Chemistry, Medical University of Białystok, Bialystok, Poland
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4
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Nemes D, Kovács R, Nagy F, Tóth Z, Herczegh P, Borbás A, Kelemen V, Pfliegler WP, Rebenku I, Hajdu PB, Fehér P, Ujhelyi Z, Fenyvesi F, Váradi J, Vecsernyés M, Bácskay I. Comparative biocompatibility and antimicrobial studies of sorbic acid derivates. Eur J Pharm Sci 2020; 143:105162. [DOI: 10.1016/j.ejps.2019.105162] [Citation(s) in RCA: 17] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/15/2019] [Revised: 10/24/2019] [Accepted: 11/18/2019] [Indexed: 12/14/2022]
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Bilal M, Iqbal HMN. An insight into toxicity and human-health-related adverse consequences of cosmeceuticals - A review. THE SCIENCE OF THE TOTAL ENVIRONMENT 2019; 670:555-568. [PMID: 30909033 DOI: 10.1016/j.scitotenv.2019.03.261] [Citation(s) in RCA: 52] [Impact Index Per Article: 10.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/07/2019] [Revised: 02/27/2019] [Accepted: 03/17/2019] [Indexed: 02/05/2023]
Abstract
In recent years, the use of cosmeceutical-based personal care and beauty products has ever increased, around the world. Currently, an increasing number of compounds are being assimilated in the formulation of cosmetic products as preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, etc. to intensify the performance, quality, value, and lifespan of cosmetics. Nevertheless, many of these chemical additives pose toxic effects to the human body, exhibiting health risks from a mild hypersensitivity to life-threatening anaphylaxis or lethal intoxication. Therefore, the indiscriminate application of cosmeceuticals has recently become a mounting issue confronting public health. The present review focuses on exposure to a large variety of toxic substances used in cosmetic formulations such as 1,4-dioxane formaldehyde, paraformaldehyde, benzalkonium chloride, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, trace heavy metals, parabens derivatives, phthalates, isothiazolinone derivatives (methylchloroiso-thiazolinone, and methylisothiazolinone), methyldibromo glutaronitrile, and phenoxy-ethanol. The biological risks related to these substances that they can pose to human health in terms of cytotoxicity, genotoxicity, mutagenicity, neurotoxicity oestrogenicity or others are also discussed. Researchers from academia, consultancy firms, governmental organizations, and cosmetic companies should carry out further progress to keep updating the consumers regarding the dark-sides, and health-related harmful apprehensions of cosmetics. In addition, the industry-motivated initiatives to abate environmental impact through green, sustainable and eco-friendly product development grasp significant perspective.
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Affiliation(s)
- Muhammad Bilal
- School of Life Science and Food Engineering, Huaiyin Institute of Technology, Huaian 223003, China.
| | - Hafiz M N Iqbal
- Tecnologico de Monterrey, School of Engineering and Sciences, Campus Monterrey, Ave. Eugenio Garza Sada 2501, Monterrey, N.L. CP 64849, Mexico.
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6
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Xu H, Ma S, Liu Q, Huang L, Wu P, Liu X, Huang Y, Wang X, Xu H, Lou K, Wang W. A naphthalimide-aminal-based pH-sensitive fluorescent donor for lysosome-targeted formaldehyde release and fluorescence turn-on readout. Chem Commun (Camb) 2019; 55:7053-7056. [DOI: 10.1039/c9cc02481f] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/18/2022]
Abstract
NAP-FAD-1 is a pH-sensitive smart formaldehyde donor with fluorescence turn-on readout for facile tracking and quantification of formaldehyde release.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hang Xu
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Shengnan Ma
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Qianqian Liu
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Lixian Huang
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Peimin Wu
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Xiaolin Liu
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Yali Huang
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Xiaolei Wang
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Huan Xu
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Kaiyan Lou
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
| | - Wei Wang
- State Key Laboratory of Bioengineering Reactor
- Shanghai Key Laboratory of New Drug Design, and Shanghai Key Laboratory of Chemical Biology
- School of Pharmacy
- East China University of Science & Technology
- Shanghai 200237
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7
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Halla N, Fernandes IP, Heleno SA, Costa P, Boucherit-Otmani Z, Boucherit K, Rodrigues AE, Ferreira ICFR, Barreiro MF. Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies. Molecules 2018; 23:E1571. [PMID: 29958439 PMCID: PMC6099538 DOI: 10.3390/molecules23071571] [Citation(s) in RCA: 123] [Impact Index Per Article: 20.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/05/2018] [Revised: 06/24/2018] [Accepted: 06/26/2018] [Indexed: 12/17/2022] Open
Abstract
Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.
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Affiliation(s)
- Noureddine Halla
- Antibiotics Antifungal Laboratory, Physical Chemistry, Synthesis and Biological Activity (LAPSAB), Department of Biology, Faculty of Sciences, University of Tlemcen, BP 119, 13000 Tlemcen, Algeria.
- Laboratory of Biotoxicology, Pharmacognosy and Biological Recovery of Plants, Department of Biology, Faculty of Sciences, University of Moulay-Tahar, 20000 Saida, Algeria.
| | - Isabel P Fernandes
- Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal.
- Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering-Laboratory of Catalysis and Materials (LSRE-LCM), Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus Santa Apolónia, 5301-253 Bragança, Portugal.
| | - Sandrina A Heleno
- Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal.
- Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering-Laboratory of Catalysis and Materials (LSRE-LCM), Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus Santa Apolónia, 5301-253 Bragança, Portugal.
| | - Patrícia Costa
- Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering-Laboratory of Catalysis and Materials (LSRE-LCM), Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade do Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias s/n, 4200-465 Porto, Portugal.
| | - Zahia Boucherit-Otmani
- Antibiotics Antifungal Laboratory, Physical Chemistry, Synthesis and Biological Activity (LAPSAB), Department of Biology, Faculty of Sciences, University of Tlemcen, BP 119, 13000 Tlemcen, Algeria.
| | - Kebir Boucherit
- Antibiotics Antifungal Laboratory, Physical Chemistry, Synthesis and Biological Activity (LAPSAB), Department of Biology, Faculty of Sciences, University of Tlemcen, BP 119, 13000 Tlemcen, Algeria.
| | - Alírio E Rodrigues
- Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering-Laboratory of Catalysis and Materials (LSRE-LCM), Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade do Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias s/n, 4200-465 Porto, Portugal.
| | - Isabel C F R Ferreira
- Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal.
| | - Maria Filomena Barreiro
- Centro de Investigação de Montanha (CIMO), Instituto Politécnico de Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal.
- Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering-Laboratory of Catalysis and Materials (LSRE-LCM), Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus Santa Apolónia, 5301-253 Bragança, Portugal.
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Spindola DG, Hinsberger A, Antunes VMDS, Michelin LFG, Bincoletto C, Oliveira CR. In vitro cytotoxicity of chemical preservatives on human fibroblast cells. BRAZ J PHARM SCI 2018. [DOI: 10.1590/s2175-97902018000100031] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/16/2022] Open
Affiliation(s)
| | | | | | | | | | - Carlos Rocha Oliveira
- Universidade Anhembi Morumbi, Brazil; Instituto de Osmologia e Óleos Essenciais, Brasil; Universidade Federal de São Paulo, Brazil
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Abstract
The available toxicity data of benzalkonium chloride (BKC) clearly shows that it is toxic; however, the weight of evidence favors the view that at doses encountered in nasally and orally inhaled pharmaceutical preparations it is well tolerated. The adverse toxicological data predominantly come from in vitro and animal studies in which doses and exposure periods employed were excessive in relation to the clinical doses and their posology and, therefore, not directly applicable to the clinic. The conflict between the in vitro and animal data and the clinical experience can be reconciled by understanding some of the physicochemical properties of BKC, the nasal and respiratory tract microenvironments, the doses used, and the posology.
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Affiliation(s)
- Neil F Johnson
- Pharma Toxicology Safety Solutions LLC , Highland Park, Illinois
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de Carvalho CM, Menezes PFC, Letenski GC, Praes CEO, Feferman IHS, Lorencini M. In vitro induction of apoptosis, necrosis and genotoxicity by cosmetic preservatives: application of flow cytometry as a complementary analysis by NRU. Int J Cosmet Sci 2011; 34:176-82. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00698.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 19] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/26/2022]
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2-Amino-nonyl-6-methoxyl-tetralin muriate inhibits sterol C-14 reductase in the ergosterol biosynthetic pathway. Acta Pharmacol Sin 2009; 30:1709-16. [PMID: 19915585 DOI: 10.1038/aps.2009.157] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.9] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/31/2022] Open
Abstract
AIM To investigate the action mechanism of a novel chemical structural aminotetralin derivate, 2-Amino-Nonyl-6-Methoxyl-Tetralin Muriate (10b), against Candida albicans (C albicans) in the ergosterol biosynthetic pathway. METHODS Antifungal susceptibility test of 10b was carried out using broth microdilution method, the action mechanism of 10b against C albicans was investigated by GC-MS spectrometry and real-time RT-PCR assay, and cytotoxicity of 10b in vitro was assessed by MTS/PMS reduction assay. RESULTS 10b reduced the ergosterol content markedly, and the 50% ergosterol content inhibitory concentration (ECIC(50) value) was 0.08 microg/mL. Although the sterol composition of 10b-grown cells was completely identical with that of erg24 strain, the content of ergosta-8,14,22-trienol in 10b-grown cells was much higher than that in erg24 strain. Real-time RT-PCR assay revealed a global upregulation of sterol metabolism genes. In addition, the 50% inhibitory concentration (IC(50) value) of 10b was 11.30 microg/mL for murine embryonic fibroblasts and 35.70 microg/mL for human normal liver cells. CONCLUSION 10b possessed a mode of action different from that of azoles and morpholines, whose targets were sterol C-14 reductase (encoded by ERG24 gene) and sterol C-5 desaturase (encoded by ERG3) related enzyme. Although 10b seemed to reduce MTS/PMS reduction in a dose dependent manner, IC(50) value for mammalian cells was much higher than 50% minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC(50)) value for C albicans. This indicates that the formulation is preliminarily safe and warrants further study for possible human applications.
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