In vitro cytotoxicity and phototoxicity study of cosmetics colorants

Intracellular Trafficking of Cationic Carbon Dots in Cancer Cell Lines MCF-7 and HeLa—Time Lapse Microscopy, Concentration-Dependent Uptake, Viability, DNA Damage, and Cell Cycle Profile

Fluorescent carbon dots (CDs) are potential tools for the labeling of cells with many advantages such as photostability, multicolor emission, small size, rapid uptake, biocompatibility, and easy preparation. Affinity towards organelles can be influenced by the surface properties of CDs which affect the interaction with the cell and cytoplasmic distribution. Organelle targeting by carbon dots is promising for anticancer treatment; thus, intracellular trafficking and cytotoxicity of cationic CDs was investigated. Based on our previous study, we used quaternized carbon dots (QCDs) for treatment and monitoring the behavior of two human cancer cell MCF-7 and HeLa lines. We found similarities between human cancer cells and mouse fibroblasts in the case of QCDs uptake. Time lapse microscopy of QCDs-labeled MCF-7 cells showed that cells are dying during the first two hours, faster at lower doses than at higher ones. QCDs at a concentration of 100 µg/mL entered into the nucleus before cellular death; however, at a dose of 200 µg/mL, blebbing of the cellular membrane occurred, with a subsequent penetration of QCDs into the nuclear area. In the case of HeLa cells, the dose-depended effect did not happen; however, the labeled cells were also dying in mitosis and genotoxicity occurred nearly at all doses. Moreover, contrasted intracellular compartments, probably mitochondria, were obvious after 24 h incubation with 100 µg/mL of QCDs. The levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) slightly increased after 24 h, depending on the concentration, thus the genotoxicity was likely evoked by the nanomaterial. A decrease in viability did not reach IC 50 as the DNA damage was probably partly repaired in the prolonged G0/G1 phase of the cell cycle. Thus, the defects in the G2/M phase may have allowed a damaged cell to enter mitosis and undergo apoptosis. The anticancer effect in both cell lines was manifested mainly through genotoxicity.

Effects of Carissa carandas Linn. Fruit, Pulp, Leaf, and Seed on Oxidation, Inflammation, Tyrosinase, Matrix Metalloproteinase, Elastase, and Hyaluronidase Inhibition

In this study, the potential of Carissa carandas Linn. as a natural anti-aging, antioxidant, and skin whitening agent was studied. Various parts of C. carandas, including fruit, leaf, seed, and pulp were sequentially extracted by maceration using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and ethanol, respectively. High-performance liquid chromatography, Folin–Ciocalteu, and Dowd method were used to investigate their chemical compositions. The inhibitory activities of oxidation process, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were analyzed. Cytotoxicity was determined by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide assay in a human epidermal keratinocyte line (HaCaT). The results exhibited that ethyl acetate could extract the most ursolic acid from C. carandas, while ethanol could extract the most phenolics and flavonoids. The leaf extract had the highest content of ursolic acid, phenolics, and flavonoids. The leaf extracted with ethyl acetate (AL) had the highest ursolic acid content (411.8 mg/g extract) and inhibited MMP-1, NF-kappa B, and tyrosinase activity the most. Ursolic acid has been proposed as a key component in these biological activities. Although several C. carandas extracts are beneficial to human skin, AL has been proposed for use in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals due to its superior anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, and whitening properties.

Self-Targeting of Carbon Dots into the Cell Nucleus: Diverse Mechanisms of Toxicity in NIH/3T3 and L929 Cells

It is important to understand the nanomaterials intracellular trafficking and distribution and investigate their targeting into the nuclear area in the living cells. In our previous study, we firstly observed penetration of nonmodified positively charged carbon dots decorated with quaternary ammonium groups (QCDs) into the nucleus of mouse NIH/3T3 fibroblasts. Thus, in this work, we focused on deeper study of QCDs distribution inside two healthy mouse NIH/3T3 and L929 cell lines by fluorescence microspectroscopy and performed a comprehensive cytotoxic and DNA damage measurements. Real-time penetration of QCDs across the plasma cell membrane was recorded, concentration dependent uptake was determined and endocytic pathways were characterized. We found out that the QCDs concentration of 200 µg/mL is close to saturation and subsequently, NIH/3T3 had a different cell cycle profile, however, no significant changes in viability (not even in the case with QCDs in the nuclei) and DNA damage. In the case of L929, the presence of QCDs in the nucleus evoked a cellular death. Intranuclear environment of NIH/3T3 cells affected fluorescent properties of QCDs and evoked fluorescence blue shifts. Studying the intracellular interactions with CDs is essential for development of future applications such as DNA sensing, because CDs as DNA probes have not yet been developed.

Size-Selected Graphene Oxide Loaded with Photosensitizer (TMPyP) for Targeting Photodynamic Therapy In Vitro

Targeted therapies of various diseases are nowadays widely studied in many biomedical fields. Photodynamic therapy (PDT) represents a modern treatment of cancer using a locally activated light. TMPyP is an efficient synthetic water-soluble photosensitizer (PS), yet with poor absorption in the visible and the red regions. In this work, we prepared size-selected and colloidally stable graphene oxide (GO) that is appropriate for biomedical use. Thanks to the negative surface charge of GO, TMPyP was easily linked in order to create conjugates of GO/TMPyP by electrostatic force. Due to the strong ionic interactions, charge transfers between GO and TMPyP occur, as comprehensively investigated by steady-state and time-resolved fluorescence spectroscopy. Biocompatibility and an in vitro effect of GO/TMPyP were confirmed by a battery of in vitro tests including MTT, comet assay, reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, and monitoring the cellular uptake. PDT efficiency of GO/TMPyP was tested using 414 and 740 nm photoexcitation. Our newly prepared nanotherapeutics showed a higher PDT effect than in free TMPyP, and is promising for targeted therapy using clinically favorable conditions.

Prospective of Monascus Pigments as an Additive to Commercial Sunscreens

Red and yellow pigments from Monascus purpureus (NMCC-PF01) were evaluated to enhance sun protection factor (SPF) of commercial sunscreens and Aloe vera extract. The extracted Monascus pigments contain rubropunctamine (red pigment) and the mixture of monascin and ankaflavin (yellow pigment) as major components. Antioxidant activity and in-vitro safety of the pigments were assessed by ferric reduction potential and DPPH radical scavenging assays, human keratinocytes (HaCaT), and erythrocytes (RBCs) cytotoxicity assay, respectively. In results, SPF of commercial sunscreens showed an increase of 36.5% with red pigment compared to the 13% increase by yellow pigment. The in-vitro studies showed 67.6% ferric reducing potential and 27% DPPH radical scavenging activity, neither cytotoxic effect against human keratinocytes nor haemolytic activity. These results confirmed the safe nature of the Monascus pigments; however, in-vivo studies merit further research. In conclusion, screened pigments from Monascus purpureus may act as potential candidates to increase SPF of commercial sunscreen naturally.

Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules

The present research relates to a fusion protein comprising a chromogenic blue ultramarine protein (UM) bound to a keratin-based peptide (KP). The KP-UM fusion protein explores UM chromogenic nature together with KP affinity towards hair. For the first time a fusion protein with a chromogenic nature is explored as a hair coloring agent. The KP-UM protein colored overbleached hair, being the color dependent on the formulation polarity. The protein was able to bind to the hair cuticle and even to penetrate throughout the hair fibre. Molecular dynamics studies demonstrated that the interaction between the KP-UM protein and the hair was mediated by the KP sequence. All the formulations recovered the mechanical properties of overbleached hair and KP-UM proved to be safe when tested in human keratinocytes. Although based on a chromogenic non-fluorescent protein, the KP-UM protein presented a photoswitch phenomenon, changing from chromogenic to fluorescent depending on the wavelength selected for excitation. KP-UM protein shows the potential to be incorporated in new eco-friendly cosmetic formulations for hair coloration, decreasing the use of traditional dyes and reducing its environmental impact.

Incorporation of Cró thermal water in a dermocosmetic formulation: cytotoxicity effects, characterization and stability studies and efficacy evaluation

OBJECTIVE

Development of cosmetic formulations to provide a controlled release of hydrophilic active compounds from mineral medicinal waters constitutes an attractive challenge. The objective of this study was the development and the characterization of a dermocosmetic gel formulation with Cró thermal water, from Beira Interior of Portugal, as a major functional ingredient.

METHODS

Concentrations of mineral chemical elements of Cró thermal water were previously determined by inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometry or mass spectrometry and cytotoxicity assays using thermal water were carried out on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) cells. Then, the Cró thermal water was included (more than 90%) in a developed gel formulation that was characterized through rheological and texture analysis and submitted to stability assays during 30 days. The effects on the skin volunteers, namely skin pH, the degree of hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin relief, were evaluated through non-invasive biometric techniques. A gel formulation including purified water was used as a control.

RESULTS

Cró thermal water is rich on several chemical elements in particular sodium, silica, potassium and calcium besides some trace elements, with important functions for the skin. NHDF cells adhered and proliferated in the presence of thermal water confirming the biocompatibility of the major component of the gel formulation. The developed gel formulation based on thermal water resulted in an improvement of textural parameters, comparing with the purified water-based one. Significant improvements in the cutaneous biometric parameters (degree of hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin relief) of volunteers were also registered for the gel formulation containing thermal water.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrated for the first time the potential benefits of Cró thermal water in a gel formulation to be used in cosmetic and dermatological applications.

Phototoxicity Evaluation of Hair Cleansing Conditioners

Photoactivation of cosmetic products and/or their ingredients may be associated with adverse skin reactions. Concerns have been raised regarding potential adverse health effects associated with the use of WEN by Chaz Dean (WCD) hair-cleansing conditioners, including alleged symptoms of redness, burning sensation, and irritation. The objective of this study was to use a validated phototoxicity test to evaluate the phototoxic potential of WCD hair-cleansing conditioners, and to demonstrate this assay’s applicability to personal care and cosmetic products. Balb/c 3T3 mouse fibroblast cells were exposed to the test articles for one hour. Following the incubation, one set of treated 3T3 cells were irradiated with 5 J/cm2 Solar Simulated Light (SSL), while a duplicate set of treated 3T3 cells were kept in the dark. After UV irradiation, cell viability was determined by neutral red uptake. The difference in cell viability between the SSL exposed and non-exposed 3T3 cells were used to determine the phototoxic potential of the test articles. Under the conditions tested, WCD hair-cleansing conditioners were not phototoxic, while the positive control was significantly phototoxic. Taken together, these results demonstrate that that the use of WCD hair-cleansing conditioners would not be expected to cause phototoxicity in consumers.

Radioprotective properties of food colorant sodium copper chlorophyllin on human peripheral blood cells in vitro

Sodium copper chlorophyllin (CHL) is a food colorant that exhibits many beneficial properties, including potential for use in radiotherapy. Nevertheless, genotoxicity studies investigating radioprotective properties against γ-radiation on human cells are rather scarce. The aim of this study was to assess the cytotoxicity, genotoxicity and induction of malondialdehyde formation on CHL pre-treated whole blood cells after an absorbed dose of 5 Gy γ-radiation. Irradiated whole blood cells pre-treated with 100, 500, and 1000 μg/mL CHL showed less DNA-strand breaks (10.92 ± 0.74%, 10.69 ± 0.68%, and 8.81 ± 0.69%, respectively) than untreated irradiated cells (12.58 ± 0.88%). At the same time, the level of malondialdehyde was lower in CHL pre-treated samples with 100, 500, and 1000 μg/mL CHL (14.11 ± 0.43, 16.35 ± 2.82, and 13.08 ± 1.03 μmol/L, respectively) compared to untreated irradiated samples (24.11 ± 0.25 μmol/L). Regarding cytotoxicity, no changes were observed in the samples tested. Another important finding is that CHL had no cyto/genotoxic properties toward human blood cells. Taken together, since CHL had no cyto/genotoxic effects and showed good radioprotective properties in human blood cells, further studies should be conducted in order to find its possible application in radiotherapy.

Synthesis and antimetastatic activity evaluation of cinnamic acid derivatives containing 1,2,3-triazolic portions

It is herein described the preparation and evaluation of antimetastatic activity of twenty-six cinnamic acid derivatives containing 1,2,3-triazolic portions. The compounds were prepared using as the key step the Copper(I)-catalyzed azide (A)-alkyne (A) cycloaddition (C) (CuAAC reaction), also known as click reaction, between alkynylated cinnamic acid derivatives and different benzyl azides. The reactions were carried in CH₂Cl₂/H₂O (1:1 v/v) at room temperature, and the triazole derivatives were obtained in yields ranging from 73%99%. Reaction times varied from 5 to 40 min. The identity of the synthesized compounds was confirmed by IR and NMR (¹H and ¹³C) spectroscopic techniques. They were then submitted to in vitro bioassays to investigate how they act over metastatic behavior of murine melanoma. The most potent compound, namely 3-(1-benzyl-1H-1,2,3-triazol-4-yl)propyl cinnamate (9a), showed significant antimetastatic and antiproliferative activities against B16-F10 cells. In addition, gelatin zymography and molecular docking analyses pointed to the fact that this compound has potential to interact with matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) and MMP-2, which are directly involved in melanoma progression. Therefore, these findings suggest that cinnamic acid derivatives containing 1,2,3-triazolic portions may have potential for development of novel candidates for controlling malignant metastatic melanoma.

Sugar and mineral enriched fraction from olive mill wastewater for promising cosmeceutical application: characterization, in vitro and in vivo studies

Nowadays, agro-food by-products represent a potential low-cost source of biologically active ingredients which have been paid significant attention as nutraceuticals, medicine, food and cosmetics. In a previous study we evaluated the total sugars, metals and polyphenols of olive mill wastewater (OMWW) from a Cerasuola olive cultivar. In the present work we selectively recovered a sugar and mineral enriched fraction (SMEF) from Cerasuola OMWW by a green adsorption/desorption process. The SMEF was mainly found to be composed of monosaccharides and potassium by HPLC-ELSD and ICP-MS. The in vitro cytotoxicity on human fibroblasts, at different concentrations of the fraction, was investigated by MTT and comet assays. In addition, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, apoptosis and cell morphological changes were examined. The physical stability of a formulation containing the SMEF (1% w/w) and its in vivo skin effects were also assessed.Our results highlighted that the SMEF showed a toxic effect at higher concentrations (i.e. cell viability reduction, DNA fragmentation and morphological alterations) well correlated with high ROS levels. Conversely, at low concentrations (0.5% and 1% w/w), no significant changes were observed. For the first time, through stability studies and in vivo tests, we also demonstrated that the SMEF formulation is stable and safe for topical application, since skin hydration improvement without negative effects was observed after 7 days of its use. Therefore, the SMEF has great potential to be used for cosmeceutical applications.

Ethyl linoleate inhibits α-MSH-induced melanogenesis through Akt/GSK3β/β-catenin signal pathway

Ethyl linoleate is an unsaturated fatty acid used in many cosmetics for its various attributes, such as antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties and clinically proven to be an effective anti-acne agent. In this study, we investigated the effect of ethyl linoleate on the melanogenesis and the mechanism underlying its action on melanogenesis in B16F10 murine melanoma cells. Our results revealed that ethyl linoleate significantly inhibited melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in α-MSH-induced B16F10 cells, but it did not directly inhibit activity of mushroom tyrosinase. Ethyl linoleate inhibited the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP1) in governing melanin pigment synthesis. We observed that ethyl linoleate inhibited phosphorylation of Akt and glycogen synthase kinase 3β (GSK3β) and reduced the level of β-catenin, suggesting that ethyl linoleate inhibits melanogenesis through Akt/GSK3β/β-catenin signal pathway. Therefore, we propose that ethyl linoleate may be useful as a safe whitening agent in cosmetic and a potential therapeutic agent for reducing skin hyperpigmentation in clinics.

Adverse Phototoxic Effect of Essential Plant Oils on NIH 3T3 Cell Line after UV Light Exposure

AIM

Natural or artificial substances have become an inseparable part of our lives. It is questionable whether adequate testing has been performed in order to ensure these substances do not pose a serious health risk. The principal aim of our research was to clarify the potential risk of adding essential oils to food, beverages and cosmetic products.

METHODS

The toxicity of substances frequently employed in cosmetics, aromatherapy and food industry (bergamot oil, Litsea cubeba oil, orange oil, citral) were investigated using cell line NIH3T3 (mouse fibroblasts) with/without UV irradiation. The MTT assay was used to estimate the cell viability. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) which are products of a number of natural cellular processes such as oxygen metabolism and inflammation were measured to determine the extent of cellular stress. DNA damage caused by strand breaks was examined by comet assay.

RESULTS

MTT test determined EC50 values for all tested substances, varying from 0.0023% v/v for bergamot oil to 0.018% v/v for citral. ROS production measurement showed that UV radiation induces oxidative stress to the cell resulting in higher ROS production compared to the control and non-irradiated samples. Comet assay revealed that both groups (UV, without UV) exert irreversible DNA damage resulting in a cell death.

CONCLUSIONS

Our findings suggest that even low concentrations (lower than 0.0464% v/v) of orange oil can be considered as phototoxic (PIF value 8.2) and probably phototoxic for bergamot oil (PIF value 4.6). We also found significant changes in the cell viability, the ROS production and the DNA after the cells were exposed to the tested chemicals. Even though these substances are widely used as antioxidants it should be noted that they present a risk factor and their use in cosmetic and food products should be minimized.

Health Risk Assessment of Heavy Metals in Traditional Cosmetics Sold in Tunisian Local Markets

This study was undertaken in order to determine heavy metal contents in twelve (n = 12) henna brands and eleven (n = 11) kohl products. An analytical test was performed for Pb, Cd, Cu, and Zn in henna and kohl products using atomic absorption spectrophotometery. The overall mean concentrations of heavy metals in henna varied between 1.2 and 8.9 μg g⁻¹ for Pb; 0.8 and 18.6 μg g⁻¹ for Cd; 0.5 μg g⁻¹ and 3.3 μg g⁻¹ for Cu; and 3.7 μg g⁻¹ and 90.0 μg g⁻¹ for Zn. As for kohl products, Pb concentrations ranged between 51.1 μg g⁻¹ and 4839.5 μg g⁻¹, Cd concentrations ranged between 1.0 μg g⁻¹ and 158.6 μg g⁻¹, Cu concentrations ranged between 2.5 μg g⁻¹ and 162.5 μg g⁻¹, and Zn concentrations ranged between 0.7 μg g⁻¹ and 185.0 μg g⁻¹. The results of our study revealed that Pb, Cd, Cu, and Zn contents in investigated samples were high, making from the prolonged use of such products a potential threat to human health. Therefore, major quality controls are recommended in order to enforce acceptable limits of potential contaminants in cosmetics and good manufacturing practice.

Preliminary safety assessment of C-8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters

OBJECTIVES

Most of the cosmetic compounds with preservative properties available in the market pose some risks concerning safety, such as the possibility of causing sensitization. Due to the fact that there are few options, the proper development of new molecules with this purpose is needed. Xylitol is a natural sugar, and the antimicrobial properties of xylitol-derived compounds have already been described in the literature. C-8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters may be useful for the development of skincare products. As an initial screen for safety of chemicals, the combination of in silico methods and in vitro testing can aid in prioritizing resources in toxicological investigations while reducing the ethical and monetary costs that are related to animal and human testing. This study was designed to evaluate the safety of C-8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters regarding carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, skin and eye irritation/corrosion and sensitization through alternative methods.

METHODS

For the initial safety assessment, quantitative structure-activity relationship methodology was used. The prediction of the parameters carcinogenicity/mutagenicity, skin and eye irritation/corrosion and sensitization was generated from the chemical structure. The analysis also comprised physical-chemical properties, Cramer rules, threshold of toxicological concern and Michael reaction. In silico results of candidate molecules were compared to 19 compounds with preservative properties that are available in the market. Additionally, in vitro tests (Ames test for mutagenicity, cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests and hen's egg test--chorioallantoic membrane for irritation) were performed to complement the evaluation.

RESULTS

In silico evaluation of both molecules presented no structural alerts related to eye and skin irritation, corrosion and sensitization, but some alerts for micronucleus and carcinogenicity were detected. However, by comparison, C-8 xylitol monoester, xylitol phosphate esters showed similar or better results than the compounds available in the market. Concerning experimental data, phototoxicity and mutagenicity results were negative. As expected for compounds with preservative activity, xylitol-derived substances presented positive result in cytotoxicity test. In hen's egg test, both molecules were irritants.

CONCLUSION

Our results suggested that xylitol-derived compounds appear to be suitable candidates for preservative systems in cosmetics.

In vitro cytotoxicity analysis of doxorubicin-loaded/superparamagnetic iron oxide colloidal nanoassemblies on MCF7 and NIH3T3 cell lines

One of the promising strategies for improvement of cancer treatment is based on magnetic drug delivery systems, thus avoiding side effects of standard chemotherapies. Superparamagnetic iron oxide (SPIO) nanoparticles have ideal properties to become a targeted magnetic drug delivery contrast probes, named theranostics. We worked with SPIO condensed colloidal nanocrystal clusters (MagAlg) prepared through a new soft biomineralization route in the presence of alginate as the polymeric shell and loaded with doxorubicin (DOX). The aim of this work was to study the in vitro cytotoxicity of these new MagAlg-DOX systems on mouse fibroblast and breast carcinoma cell lines. For proper analysis and understanding of cell behavior after administration of MagAlg-DOX compared with free DOX, a complex set of in vitro tests, including production of reactive oxygen species, comet assay, cell cycle determination, gene expression, and cellular uptake, were utilized. It was found that the cytotoxic effect of MagAlg-DOX system is delayed compared to free DOX in both cell lines. This was attributed to the different mechanism of internalization of DOX and MagAlg-DOX into the cells, together with the fact that the drug is strongly bound on the drug nanocarriers. We discovered that nanoparticles can attenuate or even inhibit the effect of DOX, particularly in the tumor MCF7 cell line. This is a first comprehensive study on the cytotoxic effect of DOX-loaded SPIO compared with free DOX on healthy and cancer cell lines, as well as on the induced changes in gene expression.