The use of non-animal alternatives in the safety evaluations of cosmetics ingredients by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)

In vitro Safety Assessment of Extracts and Compounds From Plants as Sunscreen Ingredients

This work investigated the safety of extracts obtained from plants growing in Colombia, which have previously shown UV-filter/antigenotoxic properties. The compounds in plant extracts obtained by the supercritical fluid (CO2) extraction method were identified using gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC/MS) analysis. Cytotoxicity measured as cytotoxic concentration 50% (CC50) and genotoxicity of the plant extracts and some compounds were studied in human fibroblasts using the trypan blue exclusion assay and the Comet assay, respectively. The extracts from Pipper eriopodon and Salvia aratocensis species and the compound trans-β-caryophyllene were clearly cytotoxic to human fibroblasts. Conversely, Achyrocline satureioides, Chromolaena pellia, and Lippia origanoides extracts were relatively less cytotoxic with CC50 values of 173, 184, and 89 μg/mL, respectively. The C. pellia and L. origanoides extracts produced some degree of DNA breaks at cytotoxic concentrations. The cytotoxicity of the studied compounds was as follows, with lower CC50 values representing the most cytotoxic compounds: resveratrol (91 μM) > pinocembrin (144 μM) > quercetin (222 μM) > titanium dioxide (704 μM). Quercetin was unique among the compounds assayed in being genotoxic to human fibroblasts. Our work indicates that phytochemicals can be cytotoxic and genotoxic, demonstrating the need to establish safe concentrations of these extracts for their potential use in cosmetics.

New approaches build upon historical studies in dermal toxicology

These are my personal reflections on the history of approaches to understanding dermal toxicology brought together for the Paton Prize Award. This is not a comprehensive account of all publications from in vivo studies in humans to development of in vitro and in silico approaches but highlghts important progress. I will consider what is needed now to influence approaches to understanding dermal exposure with the current development and use of NAMs (new approach methodologies).

Development of Guar Gum Hydrogel Containing Sesamol-Loaded Nanocapsules Designed for Irritant Contact Dermatitis Treatment Induced by Croton Oil Application

Irritant contact dermatitis is usually treated with corticosteroids, which cause expressive adverse effects. Sesamol is a phenolic compound with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. This study was designed to evaluate a hydrogel containing sesamol-loaded ethylcellulose nanocapsules for the treatment of irritant contact dermatitis. The nanocapsules presented a size in the nanometric range, a negative zeta potential, a sesamol content close to the theoretical value (1 mg/mL), and a 65% encapsulation efficiency. Nanoencapsulation protected sesamol against UVC-induced degradation and increased the scavenging activity assessed by ABTS and DPPH radicals. The hydrogels were prepared by thickening the nanocapsule suspensions with guar gum (2.5%). The hydrogels maintained the nanometric size of the nanocapsules and a sesamol content of approximately 1 mg/g. The HET-CAM assay classified the hydrogels as nonirritating. The in vitro release of the hydrogel containing sesamol in the nanoencapsulated form demonstrated an initial burst effect followed by a prolonged sesamol release and a lower skin permeation in comparison with the hydrogel containing free sesamol. In addition, it exhibited the best anti-inflammatory effect in the irritant contact dermatitis model induced by croton oil, reducing ear edema and inflammatory cells infiltration, similar to dexamethasone (positive control). Therefore, the hydrogel containing sesamol in the nanoencapsulated form seemed to have a therapeutic potential in treating irritant contact dermatitis.

Ex vivo model of human skin (hOSEC) for assessing the dermatokinetics of the anti-melanoma drug Dacarbazine

Alternative models to replace animals in experimental studies remain a challenge in testing the effectiveness of dermatologic and cosmetic drugs. We proposed a model of human organotypic skin explant culture (hOSEC) to assess the profile of cutaneous drug skin distribution, adopting dacarbazine as a model, and respective new methodologies for dermatokinetic analysis. The viability tests were evaluated in primary keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and skin by MTT and TTC assays, respectively. Then, dacarbazine was applied to the culture medium, and the hOSEC method was applied to verify the dynamics of skin distribution of dacarbazine and determine its dermatokinetic profile. The results of cell and tissue viability showed that both were considered viable. The dermatokinetic results indicated that dacarbazine can be absorbed through the skin, reaching a concentration of 36.36 µg/mL (18,18%) of the initial dose (200 µg/mL) after 12 h in culture. Histological data showed that the skin maintained its structure throughout the tested time that the hOSEC method was applied. No apoptotic cells were observed in the epidermal and dermal layers. No visible changes in the dermo-epidermal junction and no inflammatory processes with the recruitment of defense cells were observed. Hence, these findings suggest that the hOSEC concept as an alternative ex vivo model for assessing the dynamics of skin distribution of drugs, such as dacarbazine, and determining their respective dermatokinetic profiles.

Development of a nanotechnological-based hydrogel containing a novel benzofuroazepine compound in association with vitamin E: An in vitro biological safety and photoprotective hydrogel

This study aimed to evaluate the potential DNA photoprotection of nano-based hydrogels containing a novel benzofuroazepine molecule. Photoprotective property of three benzofuroazepine derivative compounds was assessed by determining a UV light absorptive profile. Nanocapsule suspensions (Eudragit® RS 100 as polymeric wall and medium-chain triglyceride or vitamin E as oil core) containing the benzofuroazepine compound that had the best UV spectral absorption were developed and physicochemically characterized. Photostability assay, bioadhesive property as well as preliminary toxicity parameters (HET-CAM and Artemia salina lethality assays) for free or nanoencapsulated forms were assessed. Among the molecules, the UV absorbance spectrum of free MBBA showed a broad and high intensity absorbance at UVB and UVA ranges. MBBA-nanocapsule suspensions had nanometric and homogeneous size distribution, bioadhesiveness property, and increased the UV light scattering in comparison to the free compound. Besides, all formulations triggered no irritative responses and the nanoencapsulation mitigated the toxic effect to Artemia salina observed to free MBBA. Following, hydrogels were prepared by thickening nanocapsule suspensions with gellan gum and their DNA photoprotection properties were determined by the exposure of DNA samples to the UVB and UVA radiation. Hydrogels showed acid pH values, compound content close to the theoretical value (3 mg/g), particle size in nanometric range, and spreadability profile suitable for cutaneous application. All MBBA hydrogels were effective against photoproducts formation induced by UVB and UVA radiation. In conclusion, these data show the identification of a compound with promising UV absorptive potential and the preparation of a final nano-based hydrogel for cutaneous application.

A comparison of the in vitro permeation of 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid in human skin and in a living skin equivalent (LabSkin™)

OBJECTIVES

The safety assessment of personal care products often entails determining dermal absorption of their ingredients. Such experiments are typically performed in human or animal skin in vitro; however, ethical and safety considerations are associated with obtaining these tissues. Several human skin equivalent models (HSEs) have been developed as alternatives to human tissue. The barrier function of such models however, is normally less developed than human skin. Here, we examine the permeability of the HSE LabSkin^TM to a model compound, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) compared with human skin.

METHODS

Skin uptake and permeation of EA was investigated in vitro using heat-separated human epidermis and LabSkin^TM . Finite dose (5 μL cm^-2 ) Franz-diffusion studies were conducted using 2 % (w/w) EA in a ternary solvent mixture comprising propylene glycol (PG), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML), and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These excipients are commonly used in cosmetic products and they have been reported to promote permeation of EA in a different model, namely porcine skin.

RESULTS

Permeation of EA through LabSkin^TM was evident from 2 h; however, EA permeation in human skin was not detected until 5 h. Similar amounts of EA permeated through the two membranes at time points 8, 10, 12 and 24 h (p > 0.05). The cumulative amounts of EA delivered through LabSkin^TM at 24 h were 41.3 ± 2.0 µg cm^-2 , corresponding to 55.1 ± 1.8 % of the applied dose. Similar amounts permeated across human skin, 49.4 ± 4.1 µg cm^-2 , accounting for 58.0 ± 4.2 % of the dose applied (p > 0.05).

CONCLUSION

The permeation of EA in LabSkin^TM compared well with results for human epidermis in terms of the permeation profiles and the cumulative amounts of EA that permeated. The data suggest that the skin barrier of the two models was similar with regard to their overall permeability to the hydrophilic active EA. The findings are promising for the use of LabSkin^TM as a surrogate for human skin in permeability testing. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and robustness of LabSkin^TM for delivery of other actives that span a range of physicochemical properties.

Agrochemicals with estrogenic endocrine disrupting properties: Lessons Learned?

Many agrochemicals have endocrine disrupting properties. A subset of these chemicals is characterized as "estrogenic". In this review, we describe several distinct ways that chemicals used in crop production can affect estrogen signaling. Using three agrochemicals as examples (DDT, endosulfan, and atrazine), we illustrate how screening tests such as the US EPA's EDSP Tier 1 assays can be used as a first-pass approach to evaluate agrochemicals for endocrine activity. We then apply the "Key Characteristics" approach to illustrate how chemicals like DDT can be evaluated, together with the World Health Organization's definition of an endocrine disruptor, to identify data gaps. We conclude by describing important issues that must be addressed in the evaluation and regulation of hormonally active agrochemicals including mixture effects, efforts to reduce vertebrate animal use, chemical prioritization, and improvements in hazard, exposure, and risk assessments.

Comparison of the potential mechanisms for hepatotoxicity of p-dialkoxy chlorobenzenes in rat primary hepatocytes for read-across

Read-across based on only structural similarity is considered to have a risk of error in chemical risk assessment. Under these circumstances, considering biological similarity based on adverse outcome pathways using in vitro omics technologies is expected to enhance the accuracy and robustness of conclusions in read-across. However, due to a lack of practical case studies, key considerations and use of these technologies for data gap filling are not well discussed. Here we extracted and compared the potential mechanisms for hepatotoxicity for structural analogs of p-dialkoxy chlorobenzenes including 1,4-dichloro-2,5-dimethoxybenzene (DDMB), 2,5-dichloro-1,4-diethoxybenzene (DDEB), 2-chloro-1,4-dimethoxybenzene (CDMB), and 1-chloro-2,5-diethoxybenzene (CDEB) using in vitro omics technologies for read-across. To reveal the potential mechanisms for hepatotoxicity, we conducted microarray analysis with rat primary hepatocytes. The results showed that three (DDMB, DDEB, CDEB) of the four chemicals affected similar biological pathways such as peroxisome proliferation, oxidative stress, and mitochondrial dysfunction. Furthermore, these biological pathways are consistent with in vivo hepatotoxicity in the source chemical, DDMB. In contrast, CDMB did not affect a specific toxicological pathway. Taken together, these data show the potential mechanisms for hepatotoxicity for three chemicals (DDMB, DDEB, CDEB) and provide novel insights into grouping chemicals using in vitro toxicogenomics for read-across.

Desonide nanoencapsulation with açai oil as oil core: Physicochemical characterization, photostability study and in vitro phototoxicity evaluation

This study aimed to develop Eudragit® RL 100 nanocapsules loaded with desonide (DES) using açai oil (AO) or medium chain triglycerides (MCT) as oil core. Pre-formulation study showed that AO and MCT are suitable for nanocapsules preparation. The nanocapsules prepared with AO and MCT presented mean particle size around 165 and 131 nm, respectively; polydispersity index values <0.20, positive zeta potential values, drug content close to the theoretical value (0.25 mg mL^-1), and DES encapsulation efficiency around 81%, regardless of the oil core (AO or MCT). Considering the photoinstability reported to DES, photodegradation studies were performed. The UV-A (365 nm) and UV-C (254 nm) photodegradation studies revealed less DES degradation when associated to the nanocapsules containing AO in comparison to those with MCT. The in vitro release study showed a biphasic release profile for both nanocapsule suspensions: an initial burst effect followed by a prolonged DES release. In addition, the formulations were considered non-phototoxic at 0.5 mg mL^-1 when tested on 3 T3 murine fibroblasts and HaCaT human keratinocytes using the MTT and NRU viability assays. The irritant potential of the prepared nanocapsules and DES in free form were evaluated by HET-CAM method. All formulations were classified as slightly irritant, including the non-associate DES. In conclusion, the nanocapsule formulations developed in this study may be promising for therapeutic applications.

Comparative evaluation of the hepatotoxicity, phototoxicity and photosensitizing potential of dronedarone hydrochloride and its cyclodextrin-based inclusion complexes

In this study, the hepatotoxicity, phototoxicity and photosensitizing potential of free dronedarone (DRO) and its inclusion complexes with β-cyclodextrin (β-CD) and 2-hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD), prepared by different methods, were investigated by using in vitro cell-based approaches. The results of the 3T3 NRU phototoxicity assay showed that free DRO and the CD-based inclusion complexes did not present any substantial phototoxic potential. The photosensitizing potential was assessed by using THP-1 cells and IL-8 as a biomarker, and the experimental data confirmed that both the free drug and the inclusion complexes are likely to cause skin photosensitization, as they were able to induce IL-8 release after irradiation. Nevertheless, the inclusion complexes obtained by kneading followed by spray-drying induced a lower IL-8 release and also presented a smaller stimulation index in comparison with free DRO, suggesting a reduction in the photosensitizing potential. Finally, the free drug and inclusion complexes were also tested for hepatotoxicity using HepG2 cells. Even though lower IC50 values were found for the inclusion complexes prepared by kneading followed by spray-drying, there was no significant difference, indicating that the complexation of dronedarone did not induce hepatotoxicity. Overall, the obtained data confirmed that the inclusion complexes prepared by kneading followed by spray-drying, especially those based on HP-β-CD, appeared to be the most promising formulations and, therefore, could be encouragingly explored in the development of novel pharmaceutical dosage forms containing DRO, presumably with reduced side effects and improved safety profile.

Skin toxicology and 3Rs-Current challenges for public health protection

Driven by the fast paced development of complex test systems in vitro, mass spectrometry and omics, we finally have the tools to unravel the molecular events that underlie toxicological adversity. Yet, timely regulatory adaptation of these new tools continues to pose major challenges even for organs readily accessible such as skin. The reasons for this encompass a need for conservatism as well as the need of tests to serve an existing regulatory framework rather than to produce scientific knowledge. It is important to be aware of this in order to align regulatory skin toxicity with the 3R principles more readily. While most chemical safety testing is still based on animal data, regulatory frameworks have seen a strong push towards non-animal approaches. The endpoints corrosion, irritation, sensitisation, absorption and phototoxicity, for example, can now be covered in vitro with the corresponding test guidelines (TGs) being made available by the OECD. However, in vitro approaches tend to be more reductionist. Hence, a combination of several tests is usually preferable to achieve satisfying predictivity. Moreover, the test systems and their combined use need to be standardised and are therefore subject not only to validation but also to the ongoing development of so-called integrated approaches to testing and assessment (IATAs). Concomitantly, skin models are being refined to deliver the complexity required for increased applicability and predictivity. Given the importance of regulatory applicability for 3R-derived approaches to have a long-lasting impact, this review examines the state of regulatory implementation and perspectives, respectively.

A novel research model for evaluating sunscreen protection in the UV-A1

The use of a broad spectrum sunscreen is considered one of the main and most popular measures for preventing the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on the skin. In this study we have developed a novel in vitro method to assess sunscreens efficacy to protect calcineurin enzyme activity, a skin cell marker. The photoprotective efficacy of sunscreen products was assessed by measuring the UV-A1 radiation-induced depletion of calcineurin (Cn) enzyme activity in primary neonatal human dermal fibroblast (HDFn) cell lysates. After exposure to 24J/cm² UV-A1 radiation, the sunscreens containing larger amounts of UV-A1 filters (brand B), the astaxanthin (UV-A1 absorber) and the Tinosorb® M (UV-A1 absorber) were capable of preventing loss of Cn activity when compared to the sunscreens formulations of brand A (low concentration of UV-A1 filters), with the Garcinia brasiliensis extract (UV-B absorber) and with the unprotected cell lysate and exposed to irradiation (Irradiated Control - IC). The Cn activity assay is a reproducible, accurate and selective technique for evaluating the effectiveness of sunscreens against the effects of UV-A1 radiation. The developed method showed that calcineurin activity have the potential to act as a biological indicator of UV-A1 radiation-induced damages in skin and the assay might be used to assess the efficacy of sunscreens agents and plant extracts prior to in vivo tests.

Alternative Methods to Animal Testing for the Safety Evaluation of Cosmetic Ingredients: An Overview

The safety of cosmetics sold in Europe is based on the safety evaluation of each individual ingredient conducted by those responsible for putting the product on the market. However, those substances for which some concern exists with respect to human health (e.g., colorants, preservatives, UV-filters, nanomaterials) are evaluated at the European Commission level by a scientific committee, currently called the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). According to the Cosmetics Regulation (European Commission, 2009), it is prohibited in the European Union (EU) to market cosmetic products and ingredients that have been tested on animals. However, the results of studies performed before the ban continue to be accepted. In the current study, we evaluated the use of in vitro methods in the dossiers submitted to the SCCS in the period between 2013 and 2016 based on the published reports issued by the scientific committee, which provides a scientific opinion on these dossiers. The results of this evaluation were compared with those of an evaluation conducted four years previously. We found that, despite a slight increase in the number of studies performed in vitro, the majority of studies submitted to the SCCS is still done principally in vivo and correspond to studies performed before the ban.

Demethyleugenol β-Glucopyranoside Isolated from Agastache rugosa Decreases Melanin Synthesis via Down-regulation of MITF and SOX9

Agastache rugosa (Fisch. & C. A. Mey.) Kuntze has been well-known for its antioxidative properties. This study investigated the anti-melanogenesis effect of demethyleugenol β-d-glucopyranoside (1) from A. rugosa by studying molecular regulation of melanogenesis in melan-a mouse melanocytes and normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEMs) and in in vivo models. The SRY (sex-determining region on the Y chromosome)-related high-mobility group (HMG) box 9 (SOX9), one of the critical factors that affect skin pigmentation, is up-regulated. Interestingly, 1 down-regulated the expression of SOX9 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Reduction of these two transcription factors resulted in a decrease in melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase. As a result, 1 significantly inhibited melanin synthesis in melan-a mouse melanocytes and NHEMs. In addition, the anti-melanogenic effect of 1 was confirmed in zebrafish and reconstructed skin tissue models. In conclusion, 1, as a potent SOX9 regulator, ameliorates skin pigmentation.

Phototoxicity: Its Mechanism and Animal Alternative Test Methods

The skin exposure to solar irradiation and photoreactive xenobiotics may produce abnormal skin reaction, phototoxicity. Phototoxicity is an acute light-induced response, which occurs when photoreacive chemicals are activated by solar lights and transformed into products cytotoxic against the skin cells. Multifarious symptoms of phototoxicity are identified, skin irritation, erythema, pruritis, and edema that are similar to those of the exaggerated sunburn. Diverse organic chemicals, especially drugs, are known to induce phototoxicity, which is probably from the common possession of UV-absorbing benzene or heterocyclic rings in their molecular structures. Both UVB (290~320 nm) and UVA (320~400 nm) are responsible for the manifestation of phototoxicity. Absorption of photons and absorbed energy (hv) by photoactive chemicals results in molecular changes or generates reactive oxygen species and depending on the way how endogenous molecules are affected by phototoxicants, mechanisms of phototoxcity is categorized into two modes of action: Direct when unstable species from excited state directly react with the endogenous molecules, and indirect when endogeneous molecules react with secondary photoproducts. In order to identify phototoxic potential of a chemical, various test methods have been introduced. Focus is given to animal alternative test methods, i.e., in vitro, and in chemico assays as well as in vivo. 3T3 neutral red uptake assay, erythrocyte photohemolysis test, and phototoxicity test using human 3-dimensional (3D) epidermis model are examples of in vitro assays. In chemico methods evaluate the generation of reactive oxygen species or DNA strand break activity employing plasmid for chemicals, or drugs with phototoxic potential.