Examining the differences in current regulatory processes for sunscreens and proposed safety assessment paradigm

Understudied and underestimated impacts of organic UV filters on terrestrial ecosystems

Organic UV filters (OUVFs) are vital components in various personal care products (PCPs) and commercial goods, with the annual consumption estimated at 10,000 tons. Consequently, the unavoidable use of OUVFs in PCPs and other unregulated commercial applications could present a considerable risk to human and environmental health. These chemical entities enter terrestrial ecosystems through wastewater discharge, agriculture, atmospheric deposition, and recreational activities. Compared to aqueous ecosystems, the effects of OUVFs on terrestrial environments should be more studied and potentially underestimated. The present review addresses the abovementioned gap by summarizing 189 studies conducted between 2006 and 2024, focusing on the analytical measures, occurrence, and ecotoxicological effects of OUVFs on terrestrial ecosystems. These studies underscore the harmful effects of certain OUVFs on the development, reproduction, and endocrine systems of terrestrial organisms, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive toxicological assessments to understand their impacts on non-target species in terrestrial ecosystems. Besides, by underscoring the ecological effects of OUVFs, this review aims to guide future research and inform regulatory measures to mitigate the risks posed by these widespread contaminants. Meanwhile, interdisciplinary research is essential, integrating environmental science, toxicology, ecology, and chemistry to tackle OUVF challenges in terrestrial ecosystems.

Sun protection, progress, myths, and inconsistencies (a proposal for the democratization of ISO 24443)

The concept of modern human sun protection is no more than one hundred years, but real development of it, including protection against UVA + UVB radiation (and more recently also the IR and blue light), has been no more than 30 years. One fundamental issue while formulating sunscreens is the photostability of the UV filters, which is particularly feeble for the UVA. The gold standard for the determination of sunscreen UVA protection "in vitro" is ISO 24443:2021. Still, interlaboratory results are not as consistent as expected. The Technical Committee for Cosmetics (ISO TC 217) has tried to standardize the method with precise specifications for the materials and equipment used. In particular, the standardization of UV exposure sources based on Xe arc lamps. This fact requires expensive equipment out of the reach of many laboratories to achieve adequate temperature control on the samples. In this paper, it will be shown that, within the experimental error, satisfactory results were achieved with a cheap commercial LED source irradiating only in the UVA spectra. Evidence is presented to conclude that other more relevant factors must be considered as the main cause of uncertainties.

Comparative sensory and instrumental analyses and principal components of commercial sunscreens

BACKGROUND

The initial contact of consumers when choosing sunscreens is through the trademark, packaging, perfume, and tactile feeling of the product, outlining the popular practice of sensory science.

AIMS

To describe the sensory and physical-mechanical profile of commercial sunscreens through sensory and instrumental analyses related to principal component analysis (PCA).

METHODS

Seven commercial sunscreens available on the Brazilian market and with a solar protection factor (SPF) of 30 were evaluated. Physical-mechanical profiling (rheological and textural analyses) was conducted by a trained panel, followed by sensory profile characterization and descriptive analysis. The results were assessed using the Spearman correlation coefficient and PCA.

RESULTS

The correlation or lack thereof of the instrumental parameters with most of the sensory aspects was demonstrated using the Spearman coefficient. PCA enabled us to identify the nature of the dissimilarities among the samples.

CONCLUSIONS

The obtained results highlight the importance of descriptive sensory analysis in the research and development of sunscreens, evidencing the significance of precisely informing the products' formulation in order to be chosen by the consumer.

Safety Threshold Considerations for Sunscreen Systemic Exposure: A Simulation Study

Sunscreens are regulated as over-the-counter drugs in the United States. Some sunscreen ingredients are absorbed into the systemic circulation, which raises concerns about the safety of these drugs. There is limited information on the systemic exposure for most sunscreen ingredients. This report estimates the systemic absorption of two sunscreen active ingredients, oxybenzone and enzacamene, by developing a pharmacokinetic model from published sunscreen absorption data and compares the results with safety thresholds proposed by the US Food and Drug Administration and in the literature. Our analysis indicates that systemic absorption can be substantial, and evaluation of the systemic exposure of sunscreen ingredients is warranted to better assess any long-term risks of use.

Roles of UVA radiation and DNA damage responses in melanoma pathogenesis

The growing incidence of melanoma is a serious public health issue that merits a thorough understanding of potential causative risk factors, which includes exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Though UVR has been classified as a complete carcinogen and has long been recognized for its ability to damage genomic DNA through both direct and indirect means, the precise mechanisms by which the UVA and UVB components of UVR contribute to the pathogenesis of melanoma have not been clearly defined. In this review, we therefore highlight recent studies that have addressed roles for UVA radiation in the generation of DNA damage and in modulating the subsequent cellular responses to DNA damage in melanocytes, which are the cell type that gives rise to melanoma. Recent research suggests that UVA not only contributes to the direct formation of DNA lesions but also impairs the removal of UV photoproducts from genomic DNA through oxidation and damage to DNA repair proteins. Moreover, the melanocyte microenvironment within the epidermis of the skin is also expected to impact melanomagenesis, and we therefore discuss several paracrine signaling pathways that have been shown to impact the DNA damage response in UV-irradiated melanocytes. Lastly, we examine how alterations to the immune microenvironment by UVA-associated DNA damage responses may contribute to melanoma development. Thus, there appear to be multiple avenues by which UVA may elevate the risk of melanoma. Protective strategies against excess exposure to UVA wavelengths of light therefore have the potential to decrease the incidence of melanoma. Environ. Mol. Mutagen. 59:438-460, 2018. © 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.