New Insight into the Photoprotection Mechanism of Plant Sunscreens: Adiabatic Relaxation Competing with Nonadiabatic Relaxation in the cis → trans Photoisomerization of Methyl Sinapate

Environmental implications and nanotechnological advances in octocrylene-enriched sunscreen formulations: A comprehensive review

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin aging, cancer, and other detrimental health effects. Sunscreens containing FDA-approved UV filters, like avobenzone, offer protection but suffer from photodegradation and potential phototoxicity. Encapsulation, antioxidants, and photostabilizers are strategies employed to combat these drawbacks. Octocrylene, an organic UV filter, utilizes nanotechnology to enhance sun protection factor (SPF). This review examines recent literature on octocrylene-enriched sunscreens, exploring the interplay between environmental impact, nanotechnological advancements, and clinical trial insights. A critical focus is placed on the environmental consequences of sunscreen use, particularly the potential hazards UV filters pose to marine ecosystems. Research in the Mediterranean Sea suggests bacterial sensitivity to these filters, raising concerns about their integration into the food chain. This review aims to guide researchers in developing effective strategies for photostabilization of UV filters. By combining encapsulation, photostabilizers, and antioxidants, researchers can potentially reduce phototoxic effects and contribute to developing more environmentally friendly sunscreens.

An expeditive and green chemo-enzymatic route to diester sinapoyl-l-malate analogues: sustainable bioinspired and biosourced UV filters and molecular heaters

Sinapoyl malate, naturally present in plants, has proved to be an exceptional UV filter and molecular heater for plants. Although there are nowadays industrially relevant sustainable synthetic routes to sinapoyl malate, its incorporation into certain cosmetic formulations, as well as its adsorption on plant leaves, is limited by its hydrophilicity. To overcome these obstacles, it is important to find a way to effectively control the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of sinapoyl malate to make it readily compatible with the cosmetic formulations and stick on the waxy cuticle of leaves. To this end, herein, we describe a highly regioselective chemo-enzymatic synthesis of sinapoyl malate analogues possessing fatty aliphatic chains of variable length, enabling the lipophilicity of the compounds to be modulated. The potential toxicity (i.e., mutagenicity, carcinogenicity, endocrine disruption, acute and repeated-dose toxicity), bioaccumulation, persistence and biodegradability potential of these new analogues were evaluated in silico, along with the study of their transient absorption spectroscopy, their photostability as well as their photodegradation products.

Understanding the Impact of Symmetrical Substitution on the Photodynamics of Sinapate Esters Using Gas-Phase Ultrafast Spectroscopy

Two model biomimetic systems, ethyl sinapate (ES) and its symmetrical analogue, diethyl 2-(4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene)malonate (or diethyl sinapate, DES), are stripped to their core fundamentals through gas-phase spectroscopy to understand the underlying photophysics of photothermal materials. Following photoexcitation to the optically bright S1(ππ*) state, DES is found to repopulate the electronic ground state over 3 orders of magnitude quicker than its nonsymmetrical counterpart, ES. Our XMS-CASPT2 calculations shed light on the experimental results, revealing crucial differences in the potential energy surfaces and conical intersection topography between ES and DES. From this work, a peaked conical intersection, seen for DES, shows vital importance for the nonradiative ground-state recovery of photothermal materials. This fundamental comparative study highlights the potential impact that symmetrical substitution can have on the photodynamics of sinapate esters, providing a blueprint for future advancement in photothermal technology.

Sinapate Esters Mediate UV-B-Induced Stomatal Closure by Regulating Nitric Oxide, Hydrogen Peroxide, and Malate Accumulation in Arabidopsis thaliana

Sinapate esters, which are induced in plants under ultraviolet-B (UV-B) irradiation, have important roles not only in the protection against UV-B irradiation but also in the regulation of stomatal closure. Here, we speculated that sinapate esters would function in the stomatal closure of Arabidopsis thaliana in response to UV-B. We measured the stomatal aperture size of the wild-type (WT) and bright trichomes 1 (brt1) and sinapoylglucose accumulator 1 (sng1) mutants under UV-B irradiation; the latter two mutants are deficient in the conversion of sinapic acid to sinapoylglucose (SG) and SG to sinapoylmalate (SM), respectively. Both the brt1 and sng1 plants showed smaller stomatal apertures than the WT under normal light and UV-B irradiation conditions. The accumulation of SM and malate were induced by UV-B irradiation in WT and brt1 plants but not in sng1 plants. Consistently, exogenous malate application reduced UV-B-induced stomatal closure in WT, brt1 and sng1 plants. Nonetheless, levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), nitric oxide (NO) and cytosolic Ca2+ were higher in guard cells of the sng1 mutant than in those of the WT under normal white light and UV-B irradiation, suggesting that disturbance of sinapate metabolism induced the accumulation of these signaling molecules that promote stomatal closure. Unexpectedly, exogenous sinapic acid application prevented stomatal closure of WT, brt1 and sng1 plants. In summary, we hypothesize that SG or other sinapate esters may promote the UV-B-induced malate accumulation and stomatal closure, whereas sinapic acid inhibits the ROS-NO pathway that regulates UV-B-induced cytosolic Ca2+ accumulation and stomatal closure.

Direct structural observation of ultrafast photoisomerization dynamics in sinapate esters

Sinapate esters have been extensively studied for their potential application in 'nature-inspired' photoprotection. There is general consensus that the relaxation mechanism of sinapate esters following photoexcitation with ultraviolet radiation is mediated by geometric isomerization. This has been largely inferred through indirect studies involving transient electronic absorption spectroscopy in conjunction with steady-state spectroscopies. However, to-date, there is no direct experimental evidence tracking the formation of the photoisomer in real-time. Using transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy, we report on the direct structural changes that occur upon photoexcitation, resulting in the photoisomer formation. Our mechanistic analysis predicts that, from the photoprepared ππ* state, internal conversion takes place through a conical intersection (CI) near the geometry of the initial isomer. Our calculations suggest that different CI topographies at relevant points on the seam of intersection may influence the isomerization yield. Altogether, we provide compelling evidence suggesting that a sinapate ester's geometric isomerization can be a more complex dynamical process than originally thought.

Elucidating the photoprotective properties of natural UV screening agents: ZEKE-PFI spectroscopy of methyl sinapate

As a prominent derivative of a natural sunscreen, methyl sinapate is an ideal candidate to provide fundamental insight into strategies on how to come to a rational design of artificial sunscreen filters with improved photoprotective properties. Here, static and time-resolved Zero Kinetic Energy-Pulsed Field Ionization (ZEKE-PFI) photoelectron spectroscopy has been used to study the spectroscopy and decay pathways of its electronically excited states. We find that different conformers are subject to distinct structural changes upon electronic excitation, and trace the structural changes that occur upon excitation back to the character of the LUMO. Ionization efficiency spectra in combination with pump-probe ZEKE-PFI spectra are consistent with the conclusion that the long-lived electronically excited state observed in the decay of the lowest excited singlet state is the lowest excited triplet state. Concurrently with providing information on the electronically excited states, the studies allow for a detailed characterization of the spectroscopic properties of the ground state of the radical ion, which is important in the context of the use of cinnamates in nature as antioxidants. Our studies determine the adiabatic ionization energies of the syn/cis, anti/cis and anti/trans conformers as 60 291.1 ± 0.5, 60 366.9 ± 0.5 and 60 503.9 ± 1.0 cm^-1, respectively, and provide accurate vibrational fequencies of low-frequency modes of the molecular ion in its electronic ground state. Finally, the studies emphasize the important role of vibrational and electronic autoionization processes that start to dominate the ionization dynamics in non-rigid molecules of the present size.

Substituent and Solvent Effects on the Photoisomerization of Cinnamate Derivatives: An XMS-CASPT2 Study

Cinnamate derivatives show a variety of photo-induced reactions. Among them is trans-cis photoisomerization, which may involve the nonradiative decay (NRD) process. The extended multistate complete active space second-order perturbation (XMS-CASPT2) method was used in this study as a suitable theory for treating multireference electronic nature, which was frequently manifested in the photoisomerization process. The minimum energy paths of the trans-cis photoisomerization process of cinnamate derivatives were determined, and the activation energies were estimated using the resulting intrinsic reaction coordinate (IRC) paths. Natural orbital analysis revealed that the transition state's (TS) electronic structure is zwitterionic-like, elucidating the solvent and substituent effect on the energy barrier of photoisomerization paths. Furthermore, it was found that the charge on the pyramidalized carbon atom at the TS structure was strongly correlated with the activation energy barrier for the cinnamate derivatives. Thus, it seemingly provided a physical picture of the photoisomerization of cinnamates and was a good descriptor potentially applicable to molecular design for controlling the rate constant of the photoisomerization reaction.

Unravelling the Photoprotection Properties of Garden Cress Sprout Extract

Plants, as with humans, require photoprotection against the potentially damaging effects of overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Previously, sinapoyl malate (SM) was identified as the photoprotective agent in thale cress. Here, we seek to identify the photoprotective agent in a similar plant, garden cress, which is currently used in the skincare product Detoxophane nc. To achieve this, we explore the photodynamics of both the garden cress sprout extract and Detoxophane nc with femtosecond transient electronic absorption spectroscopy. With the assistance of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, we determine that the main UV-absorbing compound in garden cress sprout extract is SM. Importantly, our studies reveal that the photoprotection properties of the SM in the garden cress sprout extract present in Detoxophane nc are not compromised by the formulation environment. The result suggests that Detoxophane nc containing the garden cress sprout extract may offer additional photoprotection to the end user in the form of a UV filter booster.

Mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry of unnatural bases and sunscreen molecules: insights from electronic structure calculations

Photophysics and photochemistry are basic subjects in the study of light-matter interactions and are ubiquitous in diverse fields such as biology, energy, materials, and environment. A full understanding of mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry underpins many recent advances and applications. This contribution first provides a short discussion on the theoretical calculation methods we have used in relevant studies, then we introduce our latest progress on the mechanistic photophysics and photochemistry of two classes of molecular systems, namely unnatural bases and sunscreens. For unnatural bases, we disclose the intrinsic driving forces for the ultrafast population to reactive triplet states, impacts of the position and degree of chalcogen substitutions, and the effects of complex environments. For sunscreen molecules, we reveal the photoprotection mechanisms that dissipate excess photon energy to the surroundings by ultrafast internal conversion to the ground state. Finally, relevant theoretical challenges and outlooks are discussed.

Effect of the Substituent Position on the Phase Behavior and Photoresponsive Dynamic Behavior of Mixed Systems of a Gemini Surfactant and trans-Methoxy Sodium Cinnamates

Mixed systems of the Gemini cationic surfactant trimethylene-1,3-bis (dodecyldimethylammonium bromide) (12-3-12·2Br^-) and the photosensitive additives trans-methoxy sodium cinnamates with different substituent positions (trans-ortho-methoxy cinnamate, trans-OMCA; trans-meta-methoxy cinnamate, trans-MMCA; and trans-para-methoxy cinnamate, trans-PMCA) were selected for investigating the effects of the substituting position of methoxy on the system phase diagram and UV light-responsive behavior of the wormlike micelles. The differences in phase behaviors of the selected systems were analyzed by calculating the potential distribution, molecular volume, and free energy of solvation of cinnamates and the binding energies between photosensitive additives and the surfactant. The photoresponsive behaviors of wormlike micelle solutions formed in the selected systems were studied by the rheological method and UV-vis and H nuclear magnetic resonance (¹H NMR) spectroscopy; the kinetics of photoisomerization of trans-OMCA, trans-MMCA, and trans-PMCA were studied by first-order derivative spectrophotometry. The results reveal that the methoxy substituent position has a great influence on the phase behavior and photosensitivity of the studied systems. In addition, the photoisomerization of the studied cinnamates follows the first-order opposite reaction laws; the different reaction rates play the decisive role in the photosensitivity of the wormlike micelles. This paper would afford a deeper understanding of the UV light-responsive mechanism at the molecular level and provide essential guidance in preparing smart materials with adjustable light sensitivity.

A post-HF approach to the sunscreen octyl methoxycinnamate

Octyl methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, OMC) is a commercial sunscreen known as octinoxate with excellent UVB filter properties. However, it is known to undergo a series of photodegradation processes that decrease its effectiveness as a UVB filter. In particular, the trans (E) form-which is considered so far as the most stable isomer-converts to the cis (Z) form under the effect of light. In this work, by using post-Hartree-Fock approaches [CCSD, CCSD(t), and CCSD + T(CCSD)] on ground state OMC geometries optimized at the MP2 level, we show that the cis and trans forms of the gas-phase OMC molecule have comparable stability. Test calculations on the same structures with a series of dispersion-corrected density functional theory-based approaches including the B2PLYP double hybrid predict the trans structures to be energetically favored, missing the subtle stabilization of cis-OMC. Our results suggest that the cis form is stabilized by intra-molecular dispersion interactions, leading to a folded more compact structure than the trans isomer.

Substitution effect on the nonradiative decay and trans → cis photoisomerization route: a guideline to develop efficient cinnamate-based sunscreens

Cinnamate derivatives are very useful as UV protectors in nature and as sunscreen reagents in daily life. They convert harmful UV energy to thermal energy through effective nonradiative decay (NRD) including trans → cis photoisomerization. However, the mechanism is not simple because different photoisomeirzation routes have been observed for different substituted cinnamates. Here, we theoretically examined the substitution effects at the phenyl ring of methylcinnamate (MC), a non-substituted cinnamate, on the electronic structure and the NRD route involving trans → cis isomerization based on time-dependent density functional theory. A systematic reaction pathway search using the single-component artificial force-induced reaction method shows that the very efficient photoisomerization route of MC can be essentially described as "1ππ* (trans) → 1nπ* → T1 (3ππ*) → S0 (trans or cis)". We found that for efficient 1ππ* (trans) → 1nπ* internal conversion (IC), MC should have the substituent at the appropriate position of the phenyl ring to stabilize the highest occupied π orbital. Substitution at the para position of MC slightly lowers the 1ππ* state energy and photoisomerization occurs via a slightly less efficient "1ππ* (trans) → 3nπ* → T1 (3ππ*) → S0 (trans or cis)" pathway. Substitution at the meta or ortho positions of MC significantly lowers the 1ππ* state energy so that the energy barrier of IC (1ππ* → 1nπ*) becomes very high. This substitution leads to a much longer 1ππ* state lifetime than that of MC and para-substituted MC, and a change in the dominant photoisomerization route to "1ππ* (trans) → C[double bond, length as m-dash]C bond twisting on 1ππ* → S0 (trans or cis)". As a whole, the "1ππ* → 1nπ*" IC observed in MC is the most important initial step for the rapid change of UV energy to thermal energy. We also found that the stabilization of the π orbital (i) minimizes the energy gap between 1ππ* and 1nπ* at the 1ππ* minimum and (ii) makes the 0-0 level of 1ππ* higher than 1nπ* as observed in MC. These MC-like relationships between the 1ππ* and 1nπ* energies should be ideal to maximize the "1ππ* → 1nπ*" IC rate constant according to Marcus theory.

Reinvestigating the Photoprotection Properties of a Mycosporine Amino Acid Motif

With the growing concern regarding commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters damaging the environment, there is an urgent need to discover new UV filters. A family of molecules called mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (referred to as MAAs collectively) are synthesized by cyanobacteria, fungi and algae and act as the natural UV filters for these organisms. Mycosporines are formed of a cyclohexenone core structure while mycosporine-like amino acids are formed of a cyclohexenimine core structure. To better understand the photoprotection properties of MAAs, we implement a bottom-up approach by first studying a simple analog of an MAA, 3-aminocyclohex-2-en-1-one (ACyO). Previous experimental studies on ACyO using transient electronic absorption spectroscopy (TEAS) suggest that upon photoexcitation, ACyO becomes trapped in the minimum of an S₁ state, which persists for extended time delays (>2.5 ns). However, these studies were unable to establish the extent of electronic ground state recovery of ACyO within 2.5 ns due to experimental constraints. In the present studies, we have implemented transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy (as well as complementary TEAS) with Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and density functional theory to establish the extent of electronic ground state recovery of ACyO within this time window. We show that by 1.8 ns, there is >75% electronic ground state recovery of ACyO, with the remaining percentage likely persisting in the electronic excited state. Long-term irradiation studies on ACyO have shown that a small percentage degrades after 2 h of irradiation, plausibly due to some of the aforementioned trapped ACyO going on to form a photoproduct. Collectively, these studies imply that a base building block of MAAs already displays characteristics of an effective UV filter.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Substitution Dependent Ultrafast Ultraviolet Energy Dissipation Mechanisms of Plant Sunscreens

An ultraviolet energy dissipation mechanism plays a critical role in the photoprotection effect of sunscreens. In this work, we discovered substitution dependent UV energy dissipation mechanisms of model plant sunscreen methyl sinapate (MS). We found that the initially populated V(ππ*) states of MS and p-OMeMS relax to the ground state nonradiatively along an ultrafast trans-cis photoisomerization in tens of picoseconds. However, for p-HMS, an internal conversion from V(ππ*) to a relative dark V'(ππ*) state occurs in less than 1 ps, leading to a branching of the excited-state relaxations. The V (ππ*) state still relaxes nonradiatively as in the case of MS and p-OMeMS. In contrast, the V'(ππ*) state decays to the ground state mainly by emitting photons, exhibiting a lifetime as long as 5 ns. It is the first time to definitely distinguish the dynamics between V(ππ*) and V'(ππ*) states in the study of sinapates and cinnamates. These results indicate the anticipation of the V'(ππ*) state should be avoided when designing sunscreens.