Effects of anionic surfactants on the water permeability of a model stratum corneum lipid membrane

Effect of a low-mineralized thermal spring water on skin barrier mechanical properties using atomic force microscopy

The mineral content of thermal spring water (TSW) applied to the skin surface can directly influence the skin barrier. Indeed, our previous study showed that Avène TSW (ATSW), a low mineral content thermal spring water, protects the stratum corneum from dehydration compared to a mineral-rich TSW (MR-TSW) and maintains skin surface ultrastructure. While many TSWs have been recognized to have beneficial effects on skin, little is known about their localized and specific effects on skin barrier biomechanics at the nanometric scale. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of ATSW with a reference, MR-TSW, on the biomechanical barrier properties of the skin under homeostasis conditions using atomic force microscopy (AFM). AFM was used to obtain a precise nanomechanical mapping of the skin surface after three applications of both TSW. This provides specific information on the skin topographical profile and elasticity. The topographic profile of skin samples showed a specific compaction of the skin layers after application of MR-TSW, characterized by an increase of the total number of external skin layers, compared to non-treated samples. By contrast, ATSW did not modify the skin topographic profile. High-resolution force/volume acquisitions to capture the elastic modulus showed that it was directly correlated with skin rigidity. The elastic modulus strongly and significantly increased after MR-TSW application compared to non-treated skin. By contrast, applications of ATSW did not increase elastic modulus. These data demonstrate that applications of MR-TSW significantly modified skin barrier properties by increasing skin surface layer compaction and skin rigidity. By contrast, ATSW did not modify the topographical profile of skin explants nor induce mechanical stress at the level of the stratum corneum, indicating it does not disrupt the biophysical properties linked to skin surface integrity.

Allergies Come Clean: The Role of Detergents in Epithelial Barrier Dysfunction

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

The prevalence and incidence of allergic disease have been rising in Westernized countries since the twentieth century. Increasingly, evidence suggests that damage to the epithelium initiates and shapes innate and adaptive immune responses to external antigens. The objective of this review is to examine the role of detergents as a potential risk factor for developing allergic disease.

RECENT FINDINGS

Herein, we identify key sources of human detergent exposure. We summarize the evidence suggesting a possible role for detergents and related chemicals in initiating epithelial barrier dysfunction and allergic inflammation. We primarily focus on experimental models of atopic dermatitis, asthma, and eosinophilic esophagitis, which show compelling associations between allergic disease and detergent exposure. Mechanistic studies suggest that detergents disrupt epithelial barrier integrity through their effects on tight junction or adhesion molecules and promote inflammation through epithelial alarmin release. Environmental exposures that disrupt or damage the epithelium may account for the increasing rates of allergic disease in genetically susceptible individuals. Detergents and related chemical compounds represent possible modifiable risk factors for the development or exacerbation of atopy.

Modeling lipid layers of atopic skin and observation of changes in lipid layer properties with changes in ceramide content

BACKGROUND

Studies have shown that there is a high correlation between atopic dermatitis and decrease in ceramide content in the lipid bilayer of skin. Moreover, it has been shown that the reduction in ceramide content in the stratum corneum is unique to atopic dermatitis, indicating that there are particular structural differences between the lipid bilayers of normal and atopic skin.

AIM

This study aimed to compare the lipid bilayer of the atopic skin with that of the healthy skin and to establish a structural model of the lipid bilayer for atopy.

METHODS

Molecular dynamics simulations were performed using NAMD 2.8. Models of lipid bilayers of normal skin and atopic skin, and a model of lipid bilayer containing only ceramide were built with CHARMM-GUI. The thickness, area occupied per lipid, and alignment of lipids were compared among the three models. Potential mean force (PMF) of the sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) on lipid bilayers was calculated to predict the affinity between SLES and lipid bilayers.

RESULTS

Potential mean force calculations showed that the lipid bilayer of atopic skin was able to absorb the surfactant more easily than that of normal skin.

CONCLUSIONS

When the ceramide ratio is low, the thickness of lipid bilayer is reduced and its structure is weakened. Other structural differences between the lipid layers of normal and atopic skin included increased area per lipid and poor alignment of lipids. Further, the atopy lipid bilayer model was found to absorb more SLES than the normal skin lipid bilayer model.

Changes in Skin Barrier Function after Repeated Exposition to Phospholipid-Based Surfactants and Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate In Vivo and Corneocyte Surface Analysis by Atomic Force Microscopy

(1) Background: The aim of the study was to evaluate the effect of pure lecithins in comparison to a conventional surfactant on skin in vivo. (2) Methods: Physiological skin parameters were evaluated at the beginning and the end of the study (day 1 and day 4) (n = 8, healthy forearm skin) with an Aquaflux^®, skin-pH-Meter, Corneometer^® and an Epsilon^® sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor natural moisturizing factor, urea and water content of the participants' skin. Tape strips of treated skin sites were taken and the collected corneocytes were subjected to atomic force microscopy. Circular nano objects were counted, and dermal texture indices were determined. (3) Results: Transepidermal water loss was increased, and skin hydration was decreased after treatment with SDS and LPC80. Natural moisturizing factor and urea concentrations within the outermost 10 µm of the stratum corneum were lower than after treatment with S75 or water. Dermal texture indices of skin treated with SDS were higher than skin treated with water (control). (4) Conclusions: Results suggest very good (S75) or good (LPC80) skin-tolerability of lecithin-based surfactants in comparison to SDS and encourage further investigation.

Molecular Dynamics Simulations of Micelle Properties and Behaviors of Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate Penetrating Ceramide and Phospholipid Bilayers

Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations with the umbrella sampling (US) method were used to investigate the properties of micelles formed by sodium lauryl ether sulfate with two ether groups (SLE2S) and behaviors of corresponding surfactants transferring from micelles to ceramide and DMPC bilayer surfaces. Average micelle radii based on the Einstein-Smoluchowski and Stokes-Einstein relations showed excellent agreement with those measured by dynamic light scattering, while those obtained by evaluating the gyration radius or calculating the distance between the micelle sulfur atoms and center of mass overestimate the radii. As an SLE2S micelle was pulled down to the ceramide bilayer surface in a 400 ns constant-force steered MD (cf-SMD) simulation, the micelle was partially deformed on the bilayer surface, and several SLE2S surfactants easily were partitioned from the micelle into the ceramide bilayer. In contrast, a micelle was not deformed on the DMPC bilayer surface, and SLE2S surfactants were not transferred from the micelle to the DMPC bilayer. Potential of mean force (PMF) calculations revealed that the Gibbs free energy required for an SLE2S surfactant monomer to transfer from a micelle to bulk water can be compensated by decreased Gibbs free energy when an SLE2S monomer transfers into the ceramide bilayer from bulk water. In addition, micelle deformation on the ceramide bilayer surface can reduce the Gibbs free energy barrier required for a surfactant to escape the micelle and help the surfactant partition from the micelle into the ceramide bilayer. An SLE2S surfactant partitioning into the ceramide bilayer is attributed to hydrogen bonding and favorable interactions between the hydrophilic surfactant head and ceramide molecules, which are more dominant than the dehydration penalty during bilayer insertion. Such interactions between surfactant and lipid molecule heads are considerably reduced in DMPC bilayers owing to dielectric screening by water molecules deep inside the head/tail boundary between the DMPC bilayer. This computational work demonstrates the distinct behavior of SLE2S surfactant micelles on ceramide and DMPC bilayer surfaces in terms of variation in Gibbs free energy, which offers insight into designing surfactants used in transdermal drug delivery systems and cosmetics.

Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier

BACKGROUND

Daily skin washing routines can promote undesirable effects on skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix is crucial for skin barrier function. Skin cleansing products are mostly composed of surfactants: surface-active molecules that interact with skin lipids in several ways. The main aim of this work was to investigate the effect produced by surfactants on skin barrier permeability. Porcine skin is a well-accepted and readily available model of the human skin barrier. The effect of two cleansing formulations (based on different surfactant mixtures) on the barrier properties of mammalian skin were evaluated.

METHODS

Water sorption/desorption (DVS) experiments were used to measure skin permeability. Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and confocal Raman were useful to study SC lipid organization.

RESULTS

The results showed that while anionic surfactants (SLS) had a negative impact on the skin barrier, with a clear increase of alkyl chain disorder; cosurfactants present in the shampoo formulation diminished the detrimental effect of their primary ionic surfactant, inducing less modification on lipid intramolecular chain disorder.

CONCLUSIONS

The obtained results confirmed that the mild cleansing formulations studied had gentle interaction with skin. The capacity to discriminate between detergent systems was clearly established with both DVS and spectroscopy techniques.

Effect of Moisture on the Thermoresponsive Properties of Binary Mixtures of Monoglycerides for Triggerable Drug Delivery Systems

The crystallization behavior and temperature-dependent phase transition of monoglycerides have been utilized to develop thermal-sensitive drug delivery systems. The presence of excess water has been reported to influence the phase transition. The present study investigates the effect of moisture on the thermal behavior of binary blends of monoglycerides. Various compositions (0-100 wt%) of glyceryl monooleate (GMO) and glyceryl monostearate (GMS) were prepared by fusion method, and exposed to varying relative humidity (RH) levels (0-100%). The moisture uptakes, sorption isotherm, and the thermal behavior of GMO-GMS samples were analyzed using differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and X-ray diffraction (XRD). The in vitro nifedipine (NF) release was studied at 37 and 42°C. Samples of GMO-GMS (25:75, 50:50, and 75:25 wt%) stored at 97%RH at 25°C for 3 weeks increased in weight by 14.0, 14.7, and 15.8%, respectively. Despite such high moisture uptake, the GMO-GMS matrices maintained crystalline structure. The melting point (T _m) and heat of fusion (ΔH _f) of the samples were reduced as the amount of moisture in the matrices increased. However, the heat of fusion calculated on dry basis remained constant at 139.4 ± 1.25, 102.7 ± 1.14, and 46.7 ± 1.16 J/g for GMO-GMS 25:75, 50:50, and 75:25 wt%, respectively. The comparison of the XRD measurements of the dry samples with those containing 30% water confirmed the preserved crystalline arrangement in the matrices. This study indicates that despite the high moisture uptakes, the GMO-GMS matrices retained their crystalline properties and provided temperature-dependent drug release indicating the potential application for thermoresponsive local drug delivery systems.

Synthesis and Surface Properties of Anionic Vinylguaiacol Based Surfactants

By changing amino acid head group four biobased anionic surfactants were synthesized using 4-vinylguaiacol and methylbromo undecanoate. The synthesized surfactants were characterized by NMR and mass spectrometry analysis. The surface active properties such as surface tension, wetting power, foaming characteristic, emulsion stability, calcium tolerance were studied and compared with those of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Excellent emulsion stabilities and calcium tolerances were observed for the synthesized surfactants. These surfactants show a lower critical micelle concentration as compared to the conventional surfactants. The bulk micellization properties were studied using dynamic light scattering and fluorescence anisotropy technique. The antimicrobial and cytotoxicity studies were also carried out.

Neutron Scattering Studies of the Interplay of Amyloid β Peptide(1-40) and An Anionic Lipid 1,2-dimyristoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoglycerol

The interaction between lipid bilayers and Amyloid β peptide (Aβ) plays a critical role in proliferation of Alzheimer’s disease (AD). AD is expected to affect one in every 85 humans by 2050, and therefore, deciphering the interplay of Aβ and lipid bilayers at the molecular level is of profound importance. In this work, we applied an array of neutron scattering methods to study the structure and dynamics of Aβ(1–40) interacting 1,2-dimyristoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoglycerol (DMPG) bilayers. In the structural investigations of lipid bilayer’s response to Aβ binding, Small Angle Neutron Scattering and Neutron Membrane Diffraction revealed that the Aβ anchors firmly to the highly charged DMPG bilayers in the interfacial region between water and hydrocarbon chain, and it doesn’t penetrate deeply into the bilayer. This association mode is substantiated by the dynamics studies with high resolution Quasi-Elastic Neutron Scattering experiments, showing that the addition of Aβ mainly affects the slower lateral motion of lipid molecules, especially in the fluid phase, but not the faster internal motion. The results revealed that Aβ associates with the highly charged membrane in surface with limited impact on the structure, but the altered membrane dynamics could have more influence on other membrane processes.

Skin care in nursing: A critical discussion of nursing practice and research

Skin (self-)care is part of human life from birth until death. Today many different skin care practices, preferences, traditions and routines exist in parallel. In addition, preventive and therapeutic skin care is delivered in nursing and healthcare by formal and informal caregivers. The aim of this contribution is a critical discussion about skin care in the context of professional nursing practice. An explicit skin assessment using accurate diagnostic statements is needed for clinical decision making. Special attention should be paid on high risk skin areas, which may be either too dry or too moist. From a safety perspective the protection and maintenance of skin integrity should have the highest priority. Skin cleansing is the removal of unwanted substances from the skin surface. Despite cleansing efficacy soap, other surfactants and water will inevitably always result in the destruction of the skin barrier. Thousands of products are available to hydrate, moisturize, protect and restore skin properties dependent upon their formulation and the concentration of ingredients. These products intended to left in contact with skin exhibit several actions on and in the skin interfering with skin biology. Unwanted side effects include hyper-hydration and disorganization of lipid bilayers in the stratum corneum, a dysfunctional barrier, increased susceptibility to irritants and allergies, and increases of skin surface pH. Where the skin barrier is impaired appropriate interventions, e.g. apply lipophilic products in sufficient quantity to treat dry skin or protect the skin from exposure to irritants should be provided. A key statement of this contribution is: every skin care activity matters. Every time something is placed on the skin, a functional and structural response is provoked. This response can be either desired or undesired, beneficial or harmful. The choice of all skin care interventions in nursing and healthcare practice must be based on an accurate assessment of the skin and concomitant health conditions and on a clearly defined outcome. A standardized skin care and skin care product language is needed for researchers planning and conducting clinical trials, for reviewers doing systematic reviews and evidence-base summaries, for nurses and other healthcare workers to deliver evidence-based and safe skin care.

Preclinical and clinical characterization of the cutaneous bioavailability of the hydrophilic phase of a water-in-oil emulsion

BACKGROUND

Interactions between the stratum corneum and individual phases of an emulsion system depend on various factors, but primarily on the outer continuous phase of the system. While there is plenty of data on the lipophilic phase, only very little data exists on the actual penetration of the hydrophilic phase of water-in-oil emulsions into the stratum corneum.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

Against this background, two comparable water-in-oil emulsions were preclinically and clinically investigated on healthy as well as on artificially damaged skin with regard to interactions of the hydrophilic phase. In preclinical studies, following epicutaneous application on ex vivo skin, the distribution of the hydrophilic phase was quantified using fluorescence tests and analyzed according to anatomic layers. Additionally, a randomized, controlled, investigator-blinded study investigated the effects of the preparations on the barrier function of healthy and artificially damaged skin over time.

RESULTS

The results clearly show that water substitution using a water-in-oil emulsion can only partially be attained by the addition of hygroscopic substances (e. g. urea). These effects may primarily be explained by the occlusive properties of the lipophilic phase.

CONCLUSIONS

This, the use of water-in-oil emulsions may in particular be recommended for chronic barrier impairment, as long-lasting effects are not to be expected in acutely damaged skin.

Monitoring the distribution of surfactants in the stratum corneum by combined ATR-FTIR and tape-stripping experiments

Combined ATR-FTIR (attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared) spectroscopy and tape-stripping experiments in vitro on porcine ear skin were used to investigate the spatial distribution of different surfactants in the stratum corneum (SC). To reveal a possible connection between the size of the formed micelles and skin penetration, dynamic light-scattering measurements of the aqueous surfactant solutions were also taken. Compared to an alkyl polyglycoside and sucrose laurate, a deeper skin penetration of the anionic surfactants sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) und sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) could be related to a smaller size of the formed micelles. Beside the differences in spatial distribution, a link between the physical presence of anionic surfactants in the SC and a decrease of skin hydration was found. Furthermore, the incorporation of SDS and SLES into the SC, even after a brief, consumer-orientated washing procedure with commercially available hair shampoos, was confirmed.