Fragrance compound geraniol forms contact allergens on air exposure. Identification and quantification of oxidation products and effect on skin sensitization

Stability study of Nepeta cataria iridoids analyzed by LC/MS

INTRODUCTION

Catnip (Nepeta cataria, L.) has well-documented applications in arthropod repellency because of its bioactive iridoids. Long-term stability of nepetalactones and other iridoids in N. cataria are needed to develop as effective pest repellents.

OBJECTIVES

The present work intends to measure iridoid concentration over time in biomass, plant extracts, and extract solution while identifying degradative byproducts under different storage conditions.

METHODOLOGY

Samples of desiccated biomass, ethanol extract, and extract in ethanol solution were stored in ambient light or darkness. Through UHPLC-QTOF/MS or UHPLC-QQQ/MS, the concentration of Z,E-nepetalactone, E,Z-nepetalactone, nepetalic acid, and dihydronepetalactone were examined over 2 years and statistically analyzed for determination of best storage practices. Degradation kinetics were applied to each analyte using graphical estimation. With targeted formula searching, degradative byproducts were identified and quantified.

RESULTS

Light exposure caused significant decreases in E,Z-nepetalactone concentration in all sample types, while having no effect on Z,E-nepetalactone as it decayed more rapidly. Extract samples lost nepetalactone content faster than biomass or extract solution. Dihydronepetalactone levels were low, but never declined over 2 years. Nepetalic acid increased over some periods, depending on sample type, indicating a relationship between the acid and nepetalactone. Four degradative byproducts-nepetonic acid, dehydronepetalactone, an anhydride, and an ethanolic ester-were identified, with variable responses to light exposure.

CONCLUSIONS

Protecting catnip products from light is necessary to preserve nepetalactones, and a discernable difference in nepetalactone isomer stability was discovered. Identifying Nepeta chemotypes rich in dihydronepetalactone may provide more resilient botanicals as starting materials for processing.

Fragrance Contact Allergy - A Review Focusing on Patch Testing

Fragrance materials are widely used in various types of products in daily life and many of them can be contact sensitizers. Contact allergy to fragrances has been reported to be common worldwide. Unlike other groups of contact allergens such as metals and preservatives, fragrance materials in consumer products can be present as single fragrance chemicals or in the form of mixtures known as natural complex substances. Due to the complexity of the fragrance materials and the high number of fragrance substances known to cause contact sensitization, selecting suitable materials for patch testing is challenging. Emerging fragrance markers have been additionally introduced in different baseline series for screening to enhance the rate of fragrance contact allergy detection. Moreover, there have been continual updates on basic knowledge, clinical perspectives, sources of exposure, and regulations on the use of fragrance materials. Avoiding pitfalls while performing patch testing with fragrance test materials is also crucial and should not be overlooked. Therefore, this review aims to update knowledge to provide a high-quality holistic approach to fragrance contact allergy diagnosis and management.

Protein Haptenation and Its Role in Allergy

Humans are exposed to numerous electrophilic chemicals either as medicines, in the workplace, in nature, or through use of many common cosmetic and household products. Covalent modification of human proteins by such chemicals, or protein haptenation, is a common occurrence in cells and may result in generation of antigenic species, leading to development of hypersensitivity reactions. Ranging in severity of symptoms from local cutaneous reactions and rhinitis to potentially life-threatening anaphylaxis and severe hypersensitivity reactions such as Stephen-Johnson syndrome (SJS) and toxic epidermal necrolysis (TEN), all these reactions have the same Molecular Initiating Event (MIE), i.e. haptenation. However, not all individuals who are exposed to electrophilic chemicals develop symptoms of hypersensitivity. In the present review, we examine common chemistry behind the haptenation reactions leading to formation of neoantigens. We explore simple reactions involving single molecule additions to a nucleophilic side chain of proteins and complex reactions involving multiple electrophilic centers on a single molecule or involving more than one electrophilic molecule as well as the generation of reactive molecules from the interaction with cellular detoxification mechanisms. Besides generation of antigenic species and enabling activation of the immune system, we explore additional events which result directly from the presence of electrophilic chemicals in cells, including activation of key defense mechanisms and immediate consequences of those reactions, and explore their potential effects. We discuss the factors that work in concert with haptenation leading to the development of hypersensitivity reactions and those that may act to prevent it from developing. We also review the potential harnessing of the specificity of haptenation in the design of potent covalent therapeutic inhibitors.

Contact allergy to oxidised geraniol may be over-represented in individuals with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen

BACKGROUND

Simultaneous overrepresentations of contact allergies and photocontact allergies are common in individuals with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen.

AIMS

To investigate whether contact allergy to oxidised (ox.) geraniol, geraniol, geranial, neral and citral is overrepresented in individuals with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen.

METHODS

The contact allergy rates to ox. geraniol, geraniol, geranial, neral and citral in routinely patch tested dermatitis patients were compared with the corresponding rates in individuals with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen.

RESULTS

Allergic patch test reactions were noted to ox. geraniol 11% (n = 39, 5.8%), ox. geraniol 6% (n = 12, 1.8%), geraniol 6% (n = 2, 0.3%), geranial (n = 18, 2.7%), neral (n = 7, 1.0%) and citral (n = 15, 2.2%). In those four patients who were diagnosed with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen during the test period, a significant overrepresentation (p = 0.020) of simultaneous contact allergy to ox. geraniol 11% was demonstrated. Overrepresentation of simultaneous contact allergy to various combinations of ox. geraniol, ox. limonene and ox. linalool was also noted in ketoprofen-photoallergic patients.

CONCLUSIONS

Contact allergy to ox. geraniol, geranial and citral is common in routinely tested dermatitis patients. There is an overrepresentation of simultaneous contact allergy to ox. geraniol, ox. limonene and ox. linalool in patients with photocontact allergy to ketoprofen.

Improving Drug Delivery on Candida Albicans Using Geraniol Nanoemulsion

Geraniol (GE) is a monoterpene alcohol with excellent antifungal activity. However, its low solubility and high volatility impair its use. Nanoemulsions (NE) are excellent delivery systems for poorly soluble and volatile drugs, achieving controlled release of the active ingredient. The aim of this study was to improve the delivery of geraniol (GE) incorporated in NE against Candida albicans in order to evaluate the antibiofilm effect and cytotoxicity. Nanoemulsion containing 10% oil phase (cholesterol) (w/w), 10% surfactant (mixture of soy phosphatidylcholine and Brij 58; 1:2) (w/w), and 80% aqueous phase (phosphate buffer) (w/w) was synthesized. Incorporation of GE was carried out by sonication and the final compounds were characterized by hydrodynamic diameter, polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential (ZP), in addition to evaluation of physicochemical stability after 6 months and 1 year. The GE-NE effect was evaluated on Candida albicans biofilms and cytotoxic effect was evaluated on immortalized normal oral cell line NOK-Si. The diameter of GE-NE was 232.3 ± 2.7 nm and PDI 0.155 with exhibited homogeneity and stability in solution. GE-NE showed antibiofilm activity at a concentration of 75 μg/mL with reduction of >6.0 log10, and no cytotoxicity against NOK-Si cells at concentrations below 150 μg/mL was observed. GE-NE proved to be a promising candidate for prevention and treatment of fungal diseases.

TFOS Lifestyle: Impact of cosmetics on the ocular surface

In this report the use of eye cosmetic products and procedures and how this represents a lifestyle challenge that may exacerbate or promote the development of ocular surface and adnexal disease is discussed. Multiple aspects of eye cosmetics are addressed, including their history and market value, psychological and social impacts, possible problems associated with cosmetic ingredients, products, and procedures, and regulations for eye cosmetic use. In addition, a systematic review that critically appraises randomized controlled trial evidence concerning the ocular effects of eyelash growth products is included. The findings of this systematic review highlight the evidence gaps and indicate future directions for research to focus on ocular surface outcomes associated with eyelash growth products.

Common fragrance chemicals activate dendritic cells in coculture with keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Fragrances are important contact allergens; however, investigation of their skin sensitization potency has been challenging in new approach methods (NAMs). Many fragrance chemicals are susceptible to autoxidation or can be metabolized by enzymes constitutively expressed in skin keratinocytes. Strong sensitizers can be formed in both of these processes. Further, keratinocytes can modulate the dendritic cell (DC) activation and maturation potential, a key event in the acquisition of contact allergy.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the 2D coculture model consisting of keratinocytes and DCs using different weak to moderate sensitizing fragrance chemicals. Further, to investigate fragrances and related oxidation products in the in vitro model and compare to in vivo data.

METHODS

Chemicals were tested in the coculture activation test (COCAT), consisting of HaCaT keratinocytes and THP-1 cells. THP-1 cell surface expression of costimulatory and adhesion molecules (CD86 and CD54) collected after 24 h incubation with the chemicals was analysed using flow cytometry.

RESULTS

Twenty-four molecules were tested positive, three were negative (n = 27). Four pairs were evaluated, with aldehydes showing a 6- to 13-fold stronger responses compared to their corresponding alcohols.

CONCLUSIONS

Results provide insight into the activation of DC in their natural environment of keratinocytes. α,β-Unsaturated alcohols were classified as weaker sensitizers compared to their corresponding aldehydes. In sum, testing of fragrances retrieved results in good agreement with in vivo data.

Application of direct peptide reactivity assay for assessing the skin sensitization potential of essential oils

Plant-derived products are frequently found as ingredients in cosmetics. However, the current data show non-neglectable skin sensitizing potential of these preparations suggesting an urgent need for data regarding their health safety profile. The aim of this study was to assess the skin sensitization potential of commercial essential oils by selected Lamiaceae species (Lavandula angustifolia, Melissa officinalis, Mentha longifolia, Thymus vulgaris, Salvia officinalis, and Rosmarinus officinalis) using a chemistry-based Direct Peptide Reactivity Assay (DPRA) in order to predict their potential allergic properties. In the DPRA assay, nucleophile-containing synthetic peptides (cysteine peptide and lysine peptide) were incubated with the test substance for 24 h. Depletion of the peptide in the reaction mixture was measured by high-pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) using UV detection and the average peptide depletion data for cysteine and lysine was then calculated. Menthae longifoliae aetheroleum showed no or minimal reactivity with 4.48% cysteine depletion, Rosmarini aetheroleum and Salviae aetheroleum showed low reactivity with the 12.79% and 15.34% of cysteine depletion, respectively, while the other analyzed essential oils showed moderate reactivity with the cysteine depletion between 23.21 and 48.43%. According to DPRA predictive analysis, only Menthae longifoliae aetheroleum can be classified as negative, while all other essential oils may be classified as positive, thus having the potential to cause skin sensitization.

What is the added value of patch testing with 30 fragrance allergens in addition to the European baseline series?

Background

Patch testing with the fragrance allergy markers in the European baseline series (EBS) does not identify all patients with fragrance allergy. Hydroperoxides of linalool and limonene have been shown to be useful allergens in detecting fragrance sensitization.

Objectives

To evaluate the added value of testing with 30 fragrance allergens in addition to the EBS.

Methods

All patients with suspected fragrance allergy who underwent patch testing at the Amsterdam University Medical Centers between November 2019 and January 2021 to the EBS and fragrance series were included.

Results

Of 323 patients tested, 162 (50.2%) were found to be fragrance sensitized. The most sensitizing single allergens were the hydroperoxides of linalool (1.0 and 0.5% pet.) and limonene (0.3 and 0.2% pet.). Testing with the hydroperoxides of linalool and limonene identified 62 fragrance‐sensitized patients (38.3%) who could not be detected by the common fragrance markers. Of all fragrance‐sensitized patients, 21 (13.0%) would have been missed when not testing with the fragrance series.

Conclusions

Patch testing with the fragrance series in addition to the EBS is valuable. To reduce the risk of false‐negative reactions, it is advisable to test the hydroperoxides of linalool and limonene.

Highlights

Of the 323 patients with suspected fragrance allergy, 162 (50.2%) were found to be fragrance sensitized.

Testing with the hydroperoxides of linalool and limonene identified 62 fragrance‐sensitized patients (38.3%) who could not be detected by the European baseline series (EBS) fragrance markers. When not tested with the fragrance series, 21 (13.0%) of the sensitized patients would have been missed.

Routinely performing patch testing with the fragrance series in addition to linalool and limonene hydroperoxide as part of the EBS is recommended.

Time trend of the exposure to geraniol in 24-h urine samples derived from the German Environmental Specimen Bank from 2004 to 2018

Geraniol (trans-3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadiene-1-ol) is an acyclic isoprenoid monoterpene with a widespread use as fragrance in consumer products, agrochemicals and pharmaceuticals. The class of terpene chemicals has been associated with varying sensitizing potencies. A recently developed sensitive LC- MS/MS method for the analysis of geraniol metabolites was further improved and validated for the two metabolites, 8-carboxygeraniol and Hildebrandt acid. The successfully validated method was applied to 250 urine samples derived from the Environmental Specimen Bank (ESB) collected between 2004 and 2018. Both metabolites of this allergen of special concern were quantified in all urine samples of this study. Correlation analysis revealed that 8-carboxygeraniol appears to be the sole specific biomarker in urine for geraniol exposure. Overall, the excreted amounts of 8-carboxygeraniol remained unchanged in urine samples collected from 2004 to 2018. However, a significantly higher 8-carboxygeraniol excretion per 24 h was observed in females compared to males across the sampling years from 2004 to 2012. This trend equalized in the years 2015 and 2018. We could demonstrate that 8-carboxygeraniol may be a suited biomarker for assessing the geraniol exposure in the general population. Regardless of the fact that additional, preferably population representative studies combining HBM and health examination were helpful to further elucidate the risks of a geraniol exposure, the current study adds important data for identifying time trends and body burden of geraniol in the environment and shows the ubiquitous exposure towards mixtures of sensitizing chemicals.

Selective C-H Allylic Oxygenation of Cycloalkenes and Terpenoids Photosensitized by [Cu(Xantphos)(neoc)]BF4

We present herein for the first time the use of the [Cu(Xantphos)(neoc)]BF₄ as a photocatalyst for the selective C-H allylic oxygenation of cycloalkenes into the corresponding allylic hydroperoxides or alcohols in the presence of molecular oxygen. The proposed methodology affords the products at good yields and has also been applied successfully to several bioactive terpenoids, such as geraniol, linalool, β-citronellol, and phytol. A mechanistic study involving also kinetic isotope effects (KIEs) supports the proposed singlet oxygen-mediated reaction. On the basis of the high chemoselectivity and yields and the fast and clean reaction processes observed, the present catalytic system, [Cu(Xantphos)(neoc)]BF₄, has also been applied to the synthesis, at a laboratory scale, of the cis-Rose oxide, a well-known perfumery ingredient used in rose and geranium perfumes.

Possible Use of Phytochemicals for Recovery from COVID-19-Induced Anosmia and Ageusia

The year 2020 became the year of the outbreak of coronavirus, SARS-CoV-2, which escalated into a worldwide pandemic and continued into 2021. One of the unique symptoms of the SARS-CoV-2 disease, COVID-19, is the loss of chemical senses, i.e., smell and taste. Smell training is one of the methods used in facilitating recovery of the olfactory sense, and it uses essential oils of lemon, rose, clove, and eucalyptus. These essential oils were not selected based on their chemical constituents. Although scientific studies have shown that they improve recovery, there may be better combinations for facilitating recovery. Many phytochemicals have bioactive properties with anti-inflammatory and anti-viral effects. In this review, we describe the chemical compounds with anti- inflammatory and anti-viral effects, and we list the plants that contain these chemical compounds. We expand the review from terpenes to the less volatile flavonoids in order to propose a combination of essential oils and diets that can be used to develop a new taste training method, as there has been no taste training so far. Finally, we discuss the possible use of these in clinical settings.

Patch testing with purified and oxidized citronellol

BACKGROUND

Citronellol is a commonly used fragrance terpene included in fragrance mix II. As with many other fragrance terpenes, citronellol is susceptible to autoxidation. Citronellol hydroperoxides are formed in large amounts and are the only oxidation products identified as sensitizers in oxidized citronellol.

AIM

To compare frequencies of contact allergy to purified and oxidized citronellol and to investigate the pattern of concomitant reactions to fragrance markers of the baseline series, oxidized linalool, and oxidized limonene.

METHODS

A total of 658 dermatitis patients were patch tested with purified and oxidized citronellol at 2.0%, 4.0%, 6.0%, and 1.0%, 2.0%, 4.0%, 6.0% petrolatum, respectively. The irritant properties of purified and oxidized citronellol were studied before patch testing.

RESULTS

Few irritant reactions were observed in the pretest. Purified citronellol detected positive reactions in 0.15%-0.31% of patients, while oxidized citronellol detected positive reactions in 0.61%-4.5%. Among patients reacting to oxidized citronellol, 34%-50% showed concomitant reactions to fragrance markers of the baseline series and 75%-91% to oxidized linalool or oxidized limonene.

CONCLUSION

Oxidized citronellol detects more cases of contact allergy than purified citronellol, and these cases are not all detected using fragrance mix II. Patch testing with oxidized citronellol will add to the tools in the diagnosis of fragrance allergy.

Loading, release profile and accelerated stability assessment of monoterpenes-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN)

Glycerol monostearate solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) were produced by hot high-pressure homogenization technique to load alpha-pinene, citral, geraniol or limonene. SLN were composed of 1 wt.% monoterpene, 4 wt.% of Imwitor^® 900K as a solid lipid and 2.5 wt.% of Poloxamer188 as a surfactant. Empty SLN consisted of 5 wt.% of Imwitor^® 900K and 2.5 wt.% of Poloxamer188. The mean particles size (Z-Ave) and polydispersity index (PDI) of SLN were analyzed by dynamic light scattering (DLS), while the zeta potential (ZP) of each formulation were measured by electrophoretic light scattering. LUMiSizer^® was applied to calculate the velocity distribution in the centrifugal field and instability index. Drug release profile from SLN was analyzed using Franz cell diffusion cells assayed by UV-Vis spectrophotometry, whereas the gas chromatography technique was applied to determine the encapsulation parameters of volatile monoterpenes. The matrix state, polymorphism and phase behavior of SLN were studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD, low and wide angles) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Selected monoterpenes were successfully loaded in glycerol monostearate SLN. A burst release profile within the first 15 min was observed for all formulations, being the modified release profile dependent on the type of monoterpene and on the encapsulation efficiency.

Blue light-triggered photochemistry and cytotoxicity of retinal

The chemical- and photo- toxicity of chromophore retinal on cells have long been debated. Although we recently showed that retinal and blue light exposure interrupt cellular signaling, a comprehensive study examining molecular underpinnings of this perturbation and its consequences to cellular fate is lacking. Here, we report molecular evidence for blue light excited-retinal induced oxidative damage of polyunsaturated lipid anchors in membrane-interacting signaling molecules and DNA damage in cells using live-cell imaging and in vitro experimentation. The incurred molecular damage irreversibly disrupted subcellular localization of these molecules, a crucial criterion for their signaling. We further show retinal accumulation in lipid-bilayers of cell membranes could enhance the lifetime of retinal in cells. Comparative response-signatures suggest that retinal triggers reactions upon photoexcitation similar to photodynamic therapy agents and generate reactive oxygen species in cells. Additionally, data also shows that exposing retinal-containing cells to sunlight induces substantial cytotoxicity. Collectively, our results explain a likely in vivo mechanism and reaction conditions under which bio-available retinal in physiological light conditions damages cells.

Influence of Technological Parameters on the Isomerization of Geraniol Using Sepiolite

Abstract

In the current study, the isomerization of geraniol over a natural sepiolite as a catalyst was investigated and optimized. Prior to application in the isomerization process, the physical and chemical properties of sepiolite were characterized using a battery of instrumental techniques, including XRD, nitrogen adsorption at 77 K, SEM, EDXRF, UV–Vis and FT-IR. Results indicated that geraniol isomerization is very complicated due to the large number of reactions taking place. The catalytic studies showed that the main reaction products were β-pinene, ocimenes, linalool, nerol, citrals, thunbergol and isocembrol; all chemical products with commercial applications. The quantity of each of these products depended on the temperature, catalyst content and reaction time employed in the isomerization process. During the current study, these parameters were varied in a step-wise approach over the ranges 80–150 °C (temperature), 5–15 wt% catalyst content and reaction time of 15–1440 min. As linalool is one of the most commercially important reaction products, the geraniol isomerization method was studied to identify conditions producing the highest selectivity for this compound. The most beneficial conditions for geraniol conversion and linalool formation were established as a temperature of 120 °C, catalyst content of 10 wt% and a reaction time of 3 h.

Graphic Abstract

Anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer activity of citral: Optimization of citral-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) using experimental factorial design and LUMiSizer®

Essential oils containing monoterpenes are widely used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetic products on account of their wide range of bioactive properties (including anti-cancer activity). Two monoterpenes (citral and geraniol) were firstly tested for their anti-inflammatory activity in a RAW 264.7 cell line, demonstrating citral to have enhanced capacity to inhibit NO production (ca. 84% for citral and 52% for geraniol at the lowest tested concentration of 5 µg/ml). As citral showed higher NO inhibitory activity than geraniol, to measure the level of cytotoxicity of citral, AlamarBlue reduction assay was run in two cell models (non-tumoral HaCaT and tumoral A431). Citral exhibited a strong cytotoxic effect in both cell lines, i.e. cell viability lower that 10% after 24 h exposure at 100 µg/ml of monoterpene. An optimized solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) formulation for citral was further developed by design of experiments (2² factorial design), followed by accelerated stability testing (LUMiSizer®). An optimal SLN composed of 1 wt% of citral, 4 wt% of lipid and 2.5 wt% surfactant were successfully produced by hot high pressure homogenization (hot HPH) showing a mean particle size (Z-Ave) of 97.7 nm and polydispersity index of 0.249. The produced formulations were analyzed in a high-end dispersion analyzer LUMiSizer® to characterize any demixing phenomena, demonstrating to be long-term stable at room temperature (25 °C), exhibiting very low instability indices (0.032 after production and 0.042 after one month of storage).

Tri-culture system for pro-hapten sensitizer identification and potency classification

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is an inflammatory disease that impacts 15-20% of the general population and accurate screening methods for chemical risk assessment are needed. However, most approaches poorly predict pre- and pro-hapten sensitizers, which require abiotic or metabolic conversion prior to inducing sensitization. We developed a tri-culture system comprised of MUTZ-3-derived Langerhans cells, HaCaT keratinocytes, and primary dermal fibroblasts to mimic the cellular and metabolic environments of skin sensitization. A panel of non-sensitizers and sensitizers was tested and the secretome was evaluated. A support vector machine (SVM) was used to identify the most predictive sensitization signature and classification trees identified statistical thresholds to predict sensitizer potency. The SVM computed 91% tri-culture prediction accuracy using the top 3 ranking biomarkers (IL-8, MIP-1β, and GM-CSF) and improved the detection of pre- and pro-haptens. This in vitro assay combined with in silico data analysis presents a promising approach and offers the possibility of multi-metric analysis for enhanced ACD sensitizer screening.

Role of geraniol against lead acetate-mediated hepatic damage and their interaction with liver carboxylesterase activity in rats

In this study, the effect of geraniol (50 mg/kg for 30 d), a natural antioxidant and repellent/antifeedant monoterpene, in a rat model of lead acetate-induced (500 ppm for 30 d) liver damage was evaluated. Hepatic malondialdehyde increased in the lead acetate group. Reduced glutathione unchanged, but glutathione S-transferase, glutathione reductase, as well as carboxylesterase activities decreased in geraniol, lead acetate and geraniol + lead acetate groups. 8-OhDG immunoreactivity, mononuclear cell infiltrations and hepatic lead concentration were lower in the geraniol + lead acetate group than the lead acetate group. Serum aspartate aminotransferase and alanine aminotransferase activities increased in the Pb acetate group. In conclusion, lead acetate causes oxidative and toxic damage in the liver and this effect can reduce with geraniol treatment. However, we first observed that lead acetate, as well as geraniol, can affect liver carboxylesterase activity.

Contact allergy to fragrances: current clinical and regulatory trends

. Several fragrances are important contact allergens. Compared to the immense multitude of more than 2,500 fragrances used in cosmetics, the spectrum of single substances and natural extracts used for patch testing appears limited, albeit comprising the supposedly most important contact allergens. The present review summarizes the most important results of the opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products from July 2012. Clinical results beyond abovementioned screening allergens, animal results in terms of the LLNA and structure activity considerations point to 100 single substances and extracts, respectively, which, in addition to those 26 already identified, must be considered contact allergens, and the presence of which should be declared in cosmetics. In case of the most commonly used fragrance terpenes limonene and linalool hydroperoxides resulting from autoxidation constitute the major allergens. These have become available as patch test material recently. Altogether 12 single substances have caused a (very) high number of published cases of sensitization. Thus their use concentration should be (further) reduced or, in case of hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC, e.g., Lyral®), use should be abandoned altogether. This is also recommended in case of oak moss and tree moss due to their content of the strong sensitizers atranol and chloroatranol. As generic maximum dose for the remaining 11 single substances 0.8 µg/cm2 are suggested, which corresponds, under conservative assumptions, a maximum concentration of 100 ppm in the finished product.

Selective Peptide-Mediated Enhanced Deposition of Polymer Fragrance Delivery Systems on Human Hair

The deposition of fragrance delivery systems onto human hair from a shampoo formulation is a challenging task, as the primary function of shampoo is to cleanse the hair by removing primarily hydrophobic moieties. In this work, to tackle this challenge, phage-display-identified peptides that can bind to human hair under shampooing conditions are first identified and subsequently used to enhance the deposition of model fragrance delivery systems. These delivery systems are based on either poly(N-(2-hydroxypropyl)methacrylamide) (PHPMA) copolymers as a representative for polymeric profragrances or polyurethane/polyurea-type core-shell microcapsules as a model physical fragrance carrier. The incorporation of a hair-binding peptide enhanced the deposition of PHPMA copolymers by a factor of 3.5-5.0 depending on the extent of peptide incorporation, whereas 10 wt % surface functionalization of microcapsules with the peptide led to a 20-fold increase in their deposition. In a final experiment, treatment of the hair samples under realistic application conditions with the peptide-functionalized microcapsules resulted in an increase in fragrance release from the hair surfaces.

Non-animal assessment of skin sensitization hazard: Is an integrated testing strategy needed, and if so what should be integrated?

There is an expectation that to meet regulatory requirements, and avoid or minimize animal testing, integrated approaches to testing and assessment will be needed that rely on assays representing key events (KEs) in the skin sensitization adverse outcome pathway. Three non-animal assays have been formally validated and regulatory adopted: the direct peptide reactivity assay (DPRA), the KeratinoSens™ assay and the human cell line activation test (h-CLAT). There have been many efforts to develop integrated approaches to testing and assessment with the "two out of three" approach attracting much attention. Here a set of 271 chemicals with mouse, human and non-animal sensitization test data was evaluated to compare the predictive performances of the three individual non-animal assays, their binary combinations and the "two out of three" approach in predicting skin sensitization potential. The most predictive approach was to use both the DPRA and h-CLAT as follows: (1) perform DPRA - if positive, classify as sensitizing, and (2) if negative, perform h-CLAT - a positive outcome denotes a sensitizer, a negative, a non-sensitizer. With this approach, 85% (local lymph node assay) and 93% (human) of non-sensitizer predictions were correct, whereas the "two out of three" approach had 69% (local lymph node assay) and 79% (human) of non-sensitizer predictions correct. The findings are consistent with the argument, supported by published quantitative mechanistic models that only the first KE needs to be modeled. All three assays model this KE to an extent. The value of using more than one assay depends on how the different assays compensate for each other's technical limitations. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Antibacterial Nerol Cinnamates from the Australian Plant Eremophila longifolia

Two new antimicrobial agents, neryl ferulate (1) and neryl p-coumarate (2), were identified using bioassay-guided isolation from the leaves of Eremophila longifolia, which is a medicinal plant used by some Australian Aboriginal communities. Although gradual autoxidation of the nerol subunit hindered the initial attempts to purify and characterize 1 and 2, it was found that the autoxidation could be stopped through storage under argon at -20 °C. Biological evaluation showed that neryl ferulate (1) had moderate activity against various Gram-positive bacteria, while neryl p-coumarate (2) was active only against Enterococcus faecium.

Comparative sensitizing potencies of fragrances, preservatives, and hair dyes

The local lymph node assay (LLNA) is used for assessing sensitizing potential in hazard identification and risk assessment for regulatory purposes. Sensitizing potency on the basis of the LLNA is categorized into extreme (EC3 value of ≤0.2%), strong (>0.2% to ≤2%), and moderate (>2%). To compare the sensitizing potencies of fragrance substances, preservatives, and hair dye substances, which are skin sensitizers that frequently come into contact with the skin of consumers and workers, LLNA results and EC3 values for 72 fragrance substances, 25 preservatives and 107 hair dye substances were obtained from two published compilations of LLNA data and opinions by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and its predecessors. The median EC3 values of fragrances (n = 61), preservatives (n = 19) and hair dyes (n = 59) were 5.9%, 0.9%, and 1.3%, respectively. The majority of sensitizing preservatives and hair dyes are thus strong or extreme sensitizers (EC3 value of ≤2%), and fragrances are mostly moderate sensitizers. Although fragrances are typically moderate sensitizers, they are among the most frequent causes of contact allergy. This indicates that factors other than potency need to be addressed more rigorously in risk assessment and risk management.

Protective effect of geraniol inhibits inflammatory response, oxidative stress and apoptosis in traumatic injury of the spinal cord through modulation of NF-κB and p38 MAPK

Geraniol is a type of monoterpenoid with a rose scent and a slightly sweet flavor. It is found in the volatile oil of various plants, and has anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects. The present study aimed to investigate the protective effect of geraniol in inhibiting the inflammatory response, oxidative stress and apoptosis in traumatic spinal cord injury (SCI), as well as to analyze the mechanism underlying its effect. Adult male Sprague-Dawley rats were induced to traumatic SCI through a surgical procedure and were defined as the SCI model group. SCI or normal rats were then administered 250 mg/kg/day geraniol for 4 weeks. The Basso, Beattie and Bresnahan (BBB) test and the spinal cord water content were used to analyze the effect of geraniol against traumatic SCI in rats. The inflammatory response, oxidative stress, and caspase-9 and -3 activities were measured using commercial ELISA kits. In addition, the associated mechanism was analyzed, using western blot analysis to determine the protein expression levels of nuclear factor (NF)-κB and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK). The results of the present study demonstrated that BBB scores were significantly increased and the spinal cord water content was significantly inhibited in SCI rats after 3 weeks of geraniol treatment. Furthermore, the inflammatory response, oxidative stress, and the caspase-9 and -3 activities were significantly suppressed upon treatment with geraniol. Finally, the mechanism of geraniol against traumatic SCI downregulated the NF-κB and p38 MAPK pathways in SCI rats. Therefore, the protective effect of geraniol is suggested to inhibit the inflammatory response, oxidative stress and apoptosis in traumatic SCI through the modulation of NF-κB and p38 MAPK.

Effect of cooking on aroma profile of red kidney beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) and correlation with sensory quality

Volatile aroma compounds of three varieties of red kidney beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) namely Kashmiri red, Sharmili and Chitra were extracted in raw state using solid-phase microextraction (SPME) and cooked state using simultaneous distillation extraction (SDE). During cooking a significant (p<0.05) reduction in the content of several aldehydes, alcohols and terpene hydrocarbons while an increase in content of various sulfurous compounds, terpene alcohols, ketones and pyrazines was noted. Descriptive sensory analysis showed that the maximum intensity of 'kidney bean', 'earthy' and 'smoky' odour was observed in Kashmiri red while Sharmili variety was characterised by 'sulfurous' odour. Correlation of volatile profile data with descriptive sensory analysis and odour activity values clearly established the role of compounds, such as methanethiol, diethyl sulfide, dimethyl disulfide, methional and dimethyl trisulfide, in contributing to 'cooked kidney bean' aroma, while dimethyl sulfoxide, dimethyl sulfone and ethyl methyl sulfone were responsible for 'sulfurous' aroma.

Characterization of radicals arising from oxidation of commercially-important essential oils

Inappropriate use of essential oils may entail risks to human health due to mutational events, carcinogenic effects, genetic damages and sensitizing effect caused by generation of reactive oxygen species. In order to detect radicals that are expected to form during their oxidation, we measured the electron spin resonance (ESR) spectra of a standard reaction mixture (I) containing 25 μM flavin mononucleotide, 0.018% several essential oils (or 0.015% geraniol), 1.9 M acetonitrile, 20 mM phosphate buffer (pH 7.4), 0.1 M α-(4-pyridyl-1-oxide)-N-tert-butylnitrone (4-POBN) and 1.0 mM FeSO4(NH4)2SO4 irradiated with 436 nm visible light (7.8 J/cm(2)). The ESR peak heights of the standard reaction mixture (I) of the essential oils increased in the following order: tea tree > palmarosa >geranium > clary sage > petitgrain > lavender > bergamot > frankincense > ravintsara > ylang ylang > lemongrass > niaouli > eucalyptus globulus > peppermint. The ESR peak height of the standard reaction mixture (I) of geraniol, a main component of palmarosa, was comparable to the one of palmarosa (97 ± 19% of palmarosa). Furthermore, high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)-ESR analyses of the standard reaction mixture (I) of palmarosa and geraniol gave the same peaks. The results suggest that the radicals formed in the standard reaction mixture (I) of palmarosa are derived from geraniol. HPLC-ESR-mass spectrometry analyses detected m/z 294 ions, 4-POBN/5-hydroxy-3-methyl-3-pentenyl radical adducts and m/z 320 ions, 4-POBN/C7O2H9 radical adducts in the standard reaction (I) of geraniol. The 5-hydroxy-3-methyl-3-pentenyl and C7O2H9 radicals may be implicated in the sensitizing effect of palmarosa.