Stimulation of melanogenesis by glycyrrhizin in B16 melanoma cells

Vitiligo and Mental Health: Natural Compounds' Usefulness

Vitiligo is an autoimmune dermatosis frequently associated with other comorbidities, such as mental health disorders. It is unclear if vitiligo triggers mental disorders or if mental disorders trigger vitiligo, but each one affects and worsen the other, if present at the same time. Both mental health disorders and vitiligo present a multifactorial pathogenesis and often require prolonged periods of therapy, sometimes with poor results. Given the possible link of common pathogenetic factors and the need of integrated therapies, the aim of this review is to look at natural compounds as possible supplements for both conditions. The results yielded show a possible role of these supplements in ameliorating both conditions, thus helping these patients to achieve a better quality of life and reduce the need for prolonged therapies. The limitations regarding the relative lack of in vivo studies, and the increasing need to lighten the burden of these chronic diseases, suggests that it is mandatory to proceed with further trials.

Daphne odora Exerts Depigmenting Effects via Inhibiting CREB/MITF and Activating AKT/ERK-Signaling Pathways

Daphne odora, a blooming shrub, has been traditionally used for various medicinal purposes. However, information on its anti-melanogenic activity and dermal application is limited. In this study, the Daphne odora extract (DOE), with constituents including daphnetin, was used to investigate depigmenting activity and the underlying mechanism of Daphne odora. DOE inhibited in vitro and cellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner, and reduced the α-MSH-induced melanin biosynthesis to a control level. The protein expressions of melanin synthesis-related enzymes were also significantly reduced by DOE. Moreover, DOE decreased the phosphorylation of cAMP-response element binding proteins (CREBs) induced by α-MSH in B16F10 cells, while it activated phosphorylated extra-cellular signal-regulated kinases (ERKs) and protein kinase B (AKT) expression. These results suggest that DOE might inhibit the melanogenesis signaling pathways by activating ERK- and AKT-signaling pathways to regulate the expression of CREB and MITF and its downstream pathways. Therefore, DOE could potentially be developed as a depigmenting agent.

Dimethyl Itaconate Reduces α-MSH-Induced Pigmentation via Modulation of AKT and p38 MAPK Signaling Pathways in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells

Dimethyl itaconate (DMI) exhibits an anti-inflammatory effect. Activation of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) is implicated in the inhibition of melanogenesis. Therefore, DMI and itaconic acid (ITA), classified as NRF2 activators, have potential uses in hyperpigmentation reduction. The activity of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element-binding protein (CREB), an important transcription factor for MITF gene promoter, is regulated by glycogen synthase kinase 3β (GSK3β) and protein kinase A (PKA). Here, we investigated the inhibitory effect of ITA and DMI on alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced MITF expression and the modulatory role of protein kinase B (AKT) and GSK3β in melanogenesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. These cells were incubated with α-MSH alone or in combination with ITA or DMI. Proteins were visualized and quantified using immunoblotting and densitometry. Compared to ITA, DMI treatment exhibited a better inhibitory effect on the α-MSH-induced expression of melanogenic proteins such as MITF. Our data indicate that DMI exerts its anti-melanogenic effect via modulation of the p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) and AKT signaling pathways. In conclusion, DMI may be an effective therapeutic agent for both inflammation and hyperpigmentation.

Plant-Derived Compounds as Promising Therapeutics for Vitiligo

Vitiligo is the most common depigmenting disorder characterized by white patches in the skin. The pathogenetic origin of vitiligo revolves around autoimmune destruction of melanocytes in which, for instance, oxidative stress is responsible for melanocyte molecular, organelle dysfunction and melanocyte specific antigen exposure as well as melanocyte cell death and thus serves as an important contributor for vitiligo progression. In recent years, natural products have shown a wide range of pharmacological bioactivities against many skin diseases, and this review focuses on the effects and mechanisms of natural compounds against vitiligo models. It is showed that some natural compounds such as flavonoids, phenols, glycosides and coumarins have a protective role in melanocytes and thereby arrest the depigmentation, and, additionally, Nrf2/HO-1, MAPK, JAK/STAT, cAMP/PKA, and Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathways were reported to be implicated in these protective effects. This review discusses the great potential of plant derived natural products as anti-vitiligo agents, as well as the future directions to explore.

Preclinical Evidence for the Pharmacological Actions of Glycyrrhizic Acid: A Comprehensive Review

Glycyrrhiza glabra L. (Family: Fabaceae) is one of the important traditional medicinal plant used extensively in folk medicine. It is known for its ethnopharmacological value in curing a wide variety of ailments. Glycyrrhizin, an active compound of G. glabra, possesses anti-inflammatory activity due to which it is mostly used in traditional herbal medicine for the treatment and management of chronic diseases. The present review is focused extensively on the pharmacology, pharmacokinetics, toxicology, and potential effects of Glycyrrhizic Acid (GA). A thorough literature survey was conducted to identify various studies that reported on the GA on PubMed, Science Direct and Google Scholar.

Advances in Pharmacological Activities and Mechanisms of Glycyrrhizic Acid

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.) is widely regarded as an important medicinal plant and has been used for centuries in traditional medicine because of its therapeutic properties. Studies have shown that metabolites isolated from licorice have many pharmacological activities, such as antiinflammatory, anti-viral, participation in immune regulation, anti-tumor and other activities. This article gives an overview of the pharmacological activities and mechanisms of licorice metabolites and the adverse reactions that need attention. This review helps to further investigate the possibility of licorice as a potential drug for various diseases. It is hoped that this review can provide a relevant theoretical basis for relevant scholars' research and their own learning.

Synthesis, computational studies, tyrosinase inhibitory kinetics and antimelanogenic activity of hydroxy substituted 2-[(4-acetylphenyl)amino]-2-oxoethyl derivatives

The over expression of melanogenic enzymes like tyrosinase caused many hyperpigmentaion disorders. The present work describes the synthesis of hydroxy substituted 2-[(4-acetylphenyl)amino]-2-oxoethyl derivatives 3a-e and 5a-e as antimelanogenic agents. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of synthesized derivatives 3a-e and 5a-e was determined and it was found that derivative 5c possesses excellent activity with IC50 = 0.0089 µM compared to standard kojic acid (IC50 = 16.69 µM). The presence of hydroxyl groups at the ortho and the para position of cinnamic acid phenyl ring in compound 5c plays a vital role in tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The compound 5d also exhibited good activity (IC50 = 8.26 µM) compared to standard kojic acid. The enzyme inhibitory kinetics results showed that compound 5c is a competitive inhibitor while 5d is a mixed-type inhibitor. The mode of binding for compounds 5c and 5d with tyrosinase enzyme was also assessed and it was found that both derivatives irreversibly bind with target enzyme. The molecular docking and molecular dynamic simulation studies were also performed to find the position of attachment of synthesized compounds at tyrosinase enzyme (PDB ID 2Y9X). The results showed that all of the synthesized compounds bind well with the active binding sites and most potent derivative 5c formed stable complex with target protein. The cytotoxicity results showed that compound 5c is safe at a dose of 12 µg/mL against murine melanoma (B16F10) cells. The same dose of 5c was selected to determine antimelanogenic activity; the results showed that it produced antimelenogenic effects in murine melanoma (B16F10) cells. Based on our investigations, it was proposed that compound 5c may serve as a lead structure to design more potent antimelanogenic agents.

Pulsed Electromagnetic Fields Increase Pigmentation through the p-ERK/p-p38 Pathway in Zebrafish (Danio rerio)

Melanogenesis is a biological process resulting in the production of melanin pigment, which plays an important role in the prevention of sun-induced skin injury, and determines hair and skin color. So, a wide variety of approaches have been proposed to increase the synthesis of melanin. This study evaluated the effects of pulsed electromagnetic fields (PEMFs) on the pigmentation of zebrafish (Danio rerio) in vivo. We stimulated pigmentation in zebrafish by using specific frequencies and intensities of PEMFs. This study focuses on pigmentation using PEMFs, and finds that PEMFs, at an optimal intensity and frequency, upregulate pigmentation by the stimulated expression of tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), dopachrome tautomerase (DCT) through extracellular signal-regulated kinase(ERK) phosphorylation, and p38 phosphorylation signaling pathways in zebrafish. These results suggest that PEMFs, at an optimal intensity and frequency, are a useful tool in treating gray hair, with reduced melanin synthesis in the hair shaft or hypopigmentation-related skin disorders.

Prunus mume extract exerts antioxidant activities and suppressive effect of melanogenesis under the stimulation by alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone in B16-F10 melanoma cells

In the current study, we examined the antioxidant and skin-whitening properties of Prunus mume extract (PME). The ability of PME to scavenge 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals was investigated in vitro. At a concentration of 1000 μg/mL, PME neutralized >45% free radical activity. Cell viability assessment with the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay revealed that at concentrations <1500 μg/mL, PME does not exert cytotoxic effects on murine B16 melanoma (B16) cells. Morphological analysis disclosed that melanin production is inhibited in B16 cells treated with 250 nM α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and PME. We conclude that fruit extracts of P. mume exert a skin-whitening effect by inhibiting melanin production via regulation of melanogenesis-associated protein expression in melanocytes.

A simple and novel colorimetric assay for tyrosinase and inhibitor screening using 3,3',5,5'-tetramethylbenzidine as a chromogenic probe

A novel colorimetric method for the detection of tyrosinase (TYR) and its inhibitor by taking utilization of Ag⁺-3,3',5,5'-tetramethylbenzidine (TMB) detection system has been proposed. Ag⁺ could oxidize TMB to oxidized TMB (oxTMB) and induce a blue color solution corresponding to an absorption peak centered at 652nm. The addition of dopamine (DA) could cause the reduction of oxTMB which resulted in the fading of the blue color and a decrease of the absorbance at 652nm. However, in the presence of TYR, DA could be oxidized to dopaquinone, which inhibited the reduction of oxTMB by DA, resulting in a blue color recovery and an increase of the absorbance at 652nm. Based on this finding, we propose a method to quantitatively detect TYR activity with the help of UV-vis spectroscopy. The developed assay is highly sensitive with a low detection limit of 0.010U/mL. More importantly, this method is fairly simple and inexpensive without the use of complicated nanomaterials. In addition, it constructs a useful platform for TYR inhibitor screening.

Combination therapy of orally administered glycyrrhizin and UVB improved active-stage generalized vitiligo

Glycyrrhizin has been used clinically for several years due to its beneficial effect on immunoglobulin E (IgE)-induced allergic diseases, alopecia areata and psoriasis. In this study, glycyrrhizin, ultraviolet B light (UVB) or a combination of both were used to treat active-stage generalized vitiligo. One hundred and forty-four patients between the ages of 3 and 48 years were divided into three groups: group A received oral compound glycyrrhizin (OCG); group B received UVB applications twice weekly, and group C received OCG+UVB. Follow-ups were performed at 2, 4, and 6 months after the treatment was initiated. The Vitiligo Area Scoring Index (VASI) and the Vitiligo Disease Activity (VIDA) instrument were used to assess the affected body surface, at each follow-up. Results showed that 77.1, 75.0 and 87.5% in groups A, B and C, respectively, presented repigmentation of lesions. Responsiveness to therapy seemed to be associated with lesion location and patient compliance. Adverse events were limited and transient. This study showed that, although the three treatment protocols had positive results, OCG and UVB combination therapy was the most effective and led to improvement in disease stage from active to stable.

Rare ginsenoside Ia synthesized from F1 by cloning and overexpression of the UDP-glycosyltransferase gene from Bacillus subtilis: synthesis, characterization, and in vitro melanogenesis inhibition activity in BL6B16 cells

Background

Ginsenoside F1 has been described to possess skin-whitening effects on humans. We aimed to synthesize a new ginsenoside derivative from F1 and investigate its cytotoxicity and melanogenesis inhibitory activity in B16BL6 cells using recombinant glycosyltransferase enzyme. Glycosylation has the advantage of synthesizing rare chemical compounds from common compounds with great ease.

Methods

UDP-glycosyltransferase (BSGT1) gene from Bacillus subtilis was selected for cloning. The recombinant glycosyltransferase enzyme was purified, characterized, and utilized to enzymatically transform F1 into its derivative. The new product was characterized by NMR techniques and evaluated by MTT, melanin count, and tyrosinase inhibition assay.

Results

The new derivative was identified as (20S)-3β,6α,12β,20-tetrahydroxydammar-24-ene-20-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-3-O-β-D-glucopyranoside (ginsenoside Ia), which possesses an additional glucose linked into the C-3 position of substrate F1. Ia had been previously reported; however, no in vitro biological activity was further examined. This study focused on the mass production of arduous ginsenoside Ia from accessible F1 and its inhibitory effect of melanogenesis in B16BL6 cells. Ia showed greater inhibition of melanin and tyrosinase at 100 μmol/L than F1 and arbutin. These results suggested that Ia decreased cellular melanin synthesis in B16BL6 cells through downregulation of tyrosinase activity.

Conclusion

To our knowledge, this is the first study to report on the mass production of rare ginsenoside Ia from F1 using recombinant UDP-glycosyltransferase isolated from B. subtillis and its superior melanogenesis inhibitory activity in B16BL6 cells as compared to its precursor. In brief, ginsenoside Ia can be applied for further study in cosmetics.

Anti-photoageing and anti-melanogenesis activities of chrysin

CONTEXT

Melanin plays an important role in preventing skin photoageing by blocking ultraviolet B (UVB). However, East Asian women prefer light and fair skin, therefore they want to keep their skin from photoageing and at the same time reduce the melanin in their skin. Chrysin is a kind of natural flavonoid with luxurious biological activities, which has a very promising effect on achieving this goal.

OBJECTIVE

To elucidate the effects and mechanisms of chrysin on photoageing and melanogenesis.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) and B16 murine melanoma cells were incubated with chrysin (0-25 μM) for 48 h. Anti-photoageing activity was examined in HDF by assessment of synthesis/degradation of collagen I, antioxidative and antisenescent activities through ELISA and colorimetric method. Anti-melanogenesis activity was tested by assessment of melanin, tyrosinase (TYR), melanogenic proteins inhibition activities in B16 cells using colorimetric and ELISA method.

RESULTS

Chrysin increased collagen I secretion (50-121.54% at 6.25-25 μM) and chrysin showed anti-photoageing activity by decreasing the degradation of collagen I, repairing oxidation damage and reducing the rate of HDF senescence. Furthermore, chrysin exhibited inhibitory activities with 3.00-20.35% reduction of melanin content at 6.25-25 μM, and inhibited melanin synthesis through the inhibition of TYR activity and the suppression of melanogenic proteins (TYR, TYR-related protein-1/2 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor) expressions.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

Chrysin may have potential for developing a functional cosmetic agent because of its anti-photoageing and anti-melanogenesis activities.

Influence of plasma-activated compounds on melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity

Many organic chemists around the world synthesize medicinal compounds or extract multiple compounds from plants in order to increase the activity and quality of medicines. In this work, we synthesized new eugenol derivatives (ED) and then treated them with an N₂ feeding gas atmospheric pressure plasma jet (APPJ) to increase their utility. We studied the tyrosinase-inhibition activity (activity test) and structural changes (circular dichroism) of tyrosinase with ED and plasma activated eugenol derivatives (PAED) in a cell-free environment. Later, we used docking studies to determine the possible interaction sites of ED and PAED compounds with tyrosinase enzyme. Moreover, we studied the possible effect of ED and PAED on melanin synthesis and its mechanism in melanoma (B16F10) cells. Additionally, we investigated the structural changes that occurred in activated ED after plasma treatment using nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). Hence, this study provides a new perspective on PAED for the field of plasma medicine.

Glycyrrhiza glabra

Liquorice foliage

Hyperpigmentation mechanism of methyl 3,5-di-caffeoylquinate through activation of p38 and MITF induction of tyrosinase

Methyl 3,5-di-caffeoylquinate (3,5-diCQM) has been used for the treatment of various diseases in oriental medicine, but its effect on melanogenesis has not been reported yet. In this study, the molecular mechanism of 3,5-diCQM-induced melanogenesis was investigated. It was found that 3,5-diCQM induced synthesis of melanin pigments in murine B16F10 melanoma cells in a concentration-dependent manner. Treatment of cells with 3,5-diCQM for 48 h increased extracellular and intracellular melanin production and tyrosinase activity. The expressions of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and TRP2 were up-regulated in a dose-dependent manner 48 h after 3,5-diCQM treatment. Western blot analysis showed that 3,5-diCQM increased the phosphorylation of p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase and cAMP responsive element binding as well as the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. In addition, 3,5-diCQM-stimulated cAMP production, and 3,5-diCQM-induced tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis were attenuated by H89, a protein kinase A inhibitor. These results suggested that 3,5-diCQM-mediated activation of the p38 pathway may represent a novel approach for an effective therapy for vitiligo and hair graying.

rhCSF3 accelerates the proliferation of human melanocytes in culture through binding CSF3R and the expression of CSF3R transcripts

Melanogenic paracrine and autocrine cytokine networks have recently been discovered in vitro between melanocytes and other types of skin cells. Granulocyte colony-stimulating factor receptor (CSF3R) controls the survival, proliferation and differentiation of many kinds of cells, including neutrophils. To understand the function of CSF3R and recombinant human granulocyte colony-stimulating factor (rhCSF3) on melanocyte proliferation, this study compared the expression of CSF3R and the effects of rhCSF3 in primary human melanocytes, neutrophils and HEL 92.1.7 cells. The results show that CSF3R is localized in the cytoplasm and on cell membranes of melanocytes and neutrophils. The percentage of CSF3R(+) melanocytes was higher than CSF3R(+) HEL 92.1.7 cells, but was lower than CSF3R(+) neutrophils. Both CSF3R mRNA and CSF3R protein levels in melanocytes were higher than in HEL 92.1.7 cells, but were lower than in neutrophils. Treatment with rhCSF3 increased the proliferation of human melanocytes, but not their tyrosinase activity. Transcripts of CSF3R in human melanocytes, M14, A375 melanoma and A431 squamous cell carcinoma cells were also detected. Expression of the CSF3R V3 transcript was lower in melanocytes than in M14, A375 melanoma and A431 squamous cell carcinoma cells. In conclusion, rhCSF3 can promote melanocyte proliferation through CSF3R without affecting tyrosinase activity.

Triterpene glycosides with stimulatory activity on melanogenesis from the aerial parts of Weigela subsessilis

Three new triterpene glycosides (Lonicerosides K, L and M) and 11 known compounds were isolated from the aerial parts of Weigela subsessilis. Among the known isolated compounds, loniceroside A, sweroside, kaempferol-3-O-glucopyranoside 6″-(3-hydroxy-3-methylglutarate), kaempferol-3-O-acetylglucoside and grandifloroside were reported for the first time in a Weigela genus plant. Their chemical structures were identified using extensive spectroscopic analysis including two-dimensional (2D)-NMR experiments, HR-ESI-QTOF-MS and comparison with reported data. Among these compounds, lonicerosides A and L had potent melanogenesis stimulatory activity in murine B16F0 melanoma cells. The structural relationship of active compounds was discussed.

Mechanistic studies of anti-hyperpigmentary compounds: elucidating their inhibitory and regulatory actions

Searching for depigmenting agents from natural sources has become a new direction in the cosmetic industry as natural products are generally perceived as relatively safer. In our previous study, selected Chinese medicines traditionally used to treat hyperpigmentation were tested for anti-hyperpigmentary effects using a melan-a cell culture model. Among the tested chemical compounds, 4-ethylresorcinol, 4-ethylphenol and 1-tetradecanol were found to possess hypopigmentary effects. Western blot analysis, reverse transcriptase polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR), cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) assay, protein kinase A (PKA) activity assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay and lipid peroxidation inhibition assay were performed to reveal the underlying cellular and molecular mechanisms of the hypopigmentary effects. 4-Ethylresorcinol and 4-ethylphenol attenuated mRNA and protein expression of tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-2, and possessed antioxidative effect by inhibiting lipid peroxidation. 1-Tetradecanol was able to attenuate protein expression of tyrosinase. The hypopigmentary actions of 4-ethylresorcinol, 4-ethylphenol and 1-tetradecanol were associated with regulating downstream proteins along the PKA pathway. 4-Ethylresorcinol was more effective in inhibiting melanin synthesis when compared to 4-ethylphenol and 1-tetradecanol.

Whitening effect of Sophora flavescens extract

CONTEXT

Sophora flavescens Ait. (Leguminosae) has been proposed as a new whitening agent for cosmetics, because it has a strong ability to inhibit tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the formation of melanin.

OBJECTIVE

We conducted a study to determine whether ethanol extract of the roots of S. flavescens has the potential for use as a whitening cosmetic agent by investigating its underlying mechanisms of action.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

To elucidate the mechanism of action of S. flavescens extract, we used DNA microarray technology. We investigated the changes in the mRNA levels of genes associated with the formation and transport of melanosomes. We also identified the formation and transport of melanosomes with immunohistochemistry and immunofluorescence analyses. Finally, the skin-whitening effect in vivo of S. flavescens extract was analyzed on human skin.

RESULTS

We found that S. flavescens extract strongly inhibited tyrosinase activity (IC50, 10.4 μg/mL). Results also showed that key proteins involved in the formation and transport of melanosomes were dramatically downregulated at both mRNA and protein level in keratinocytes exposed to S. flavescens extract. In addition, a clinical trial of a cream containing 0.05% S. flavescens extract on human skin showed it had a significant effect on skin whitening by mechanical and visual evaluation (1.14-fold).

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

This study provides important clues toward understanding the effects of S. flavescens extract on the formation and transport of melanosomes. From these results, we suggest that naturally occurring S. flavescens extract might be useful as a new whitening agent in cosmetics.

Inhibitory effects of 5-chloroacetyl-2-piperidino-1,3-selenazole, a novel selenium-containing compound, on skin melanin biosynthesis

Objectives

Increased production and accumulation of melanin leads to many hyperpigmentation disorders such as melasma, freckles and geriatric pigment spots. Thus, there is a need for the development of depigmenting agents. Based on our previous reports, selenium derivatives as anti-melanogenic lead compounds could be very important. The aim of this study was to investigate the depigmenting effect of novel selenium-containing compounds.

Methods

The inhibitory effects of 5-chloroacetyl-2-piperidino-1,3-selenazole (CS1), a novel selenium-containing compound, on melanogenesis were investigated in B16F10 melanoma cells and cultured brownish guinea pig skin tissue with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone stimulation.

Key findings

We found that CS1 inhibited melanin production in B16F10 cells by suppressing tyrosinase activity and its protein expression. In addition, Western blotting analysis revealed that CS1 suppressed the expression of tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1 and TRP-2. Therefore, the depigmenting effect of CS1 might have been due to inhibition of tyrosinase activity and expression of melanogenic enzymes. Furthermore, CS1 had inhibitory effects on melanin biosynthesis of primary cultured skin of brownish guinea pig.

Conclusions

The results suggested that CS1 could be a useful candidate for the treatment of skin hyperpigmentation.

Lotus (Nelumbo nuficera) flower essential oil increased melanogenesis in normal human melanocytes

In this study, the essential oil from lotus flower extract, including petals and stamens, was assessed with regard to its effects on melanogenesis in human melanocytes. The lotus flower essential oil was shown to stimulate melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner. The lotus flower essential oil induced the expression of tyrosinase, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor M (MITF-M), and tyrosinase-related proten-2 (TRP-2) proteins, but not tyrosinase mRNA. Moreover, it increased the phosphorylation of ERK and cAMP response element binding protein (CREB). In order to verify the effective components of the lotus flower oil, its lipid composition was assessed. It was found to be comprised of palmitic acid methyl ester (22.66%), linoleic acid methyl ester (11.16%), palmitoleic acid methyl ester (7.55%) and linolenic acid methyl ester (5.16%). Among these components, palmitic acid methyl ester clearly induced melanogenesis as the result of increased tyrosinase expression, thereby indicating that it may play a role in the regulation of melanin content. Thus, our results indicate that lotus flower oil may prove useful in the development of gray hair prevention agents or tanning reagents.

Effect of xanthohumol on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells

Xanthohumol (XH), the principal prenylflavonoid of the hop plant (Humulus lupulus L.), dose-dependently inhibited isobutylmethylxanthine (IBMX)-induced melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells, with little cytotoxicity at the effective concentrations. Decreased melanin content was accompanied by reduced tyrosinase enzyme activity, protein and mRNA expression. The levels of tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2 mRNAs were decreased by XH. XH also inhibited alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone- or forskolin-induced increases in melanogenesis, suggesting an action on the cAMP-dependent melanogenic pathway. XH downregulated the protein and mRNA expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a master transcriptional regulator of key melanogenic enzymes. These results suggest that XH might act as a hypo-pigmenting agent through the downregulation of MITF in the cAMP-dependent melanogenic pathway.

Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate

Glycyrrhetinic Acid and its salts and esters and Glycyrrhizic Acid and its salts and esters are cosmetic ingredients that function as flavoring agents or skin-conditioning agents - miscellaneous or both. These chemicals may be isolated from licorice plants. Glycyrrhetinc Acid is described as at least 98% pure, with 0.6% 24-OH-Glycyrrhetinic Acid, not more than 20 mu g/g of heavy metals and not more than 2 mu g/g of arsenic. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate has been found to be at least 98% pure and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate has been found to be at least 95% pure. Glycyrrhetinic Acid is used in cosmetics at concentrations of up to 2%; Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, up to 1%; Glycyrrhizic Acid, up to 0.1%; Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, up to 5%; Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, up to 1%; and Potassium Glycyrretinate, up to 1%. Although Glycyrrhizic Acid is poorly absorbed by the intestinal tract, it may be hydrolyzed to Glycyrrhetinic Acid by a beta -glucuronidase produced by intestinal bacteria. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid bind to rat and human albumin, but do not absorb well into tissues. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid and metabolites are mostly excreted in the bile, with very little excreted in urine. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate was undetectable in the receptor chamber when tested for transepidermal permeation through pig skin. Glycyrrhizic Acid increased the dermal penetration of diclofenac sodium in rat skin. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate increased the intestinal absorption of calcitonin in rats. In humans, Glycyrrhetinic Acid potentiated the effects of hydrocortisone in the skin. Moderate chronic or high acute exposure to Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, and their metabolites have been demonstrated to cause transient systemic alterations, including increased potassium excretion, sodium and water retention, body weight gain, alkalosis, suppression of the renin-angiotensis-aldosterone system, hypertension, and muscular paralysis; possibly through inhibition of 11beta -hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase-2 (11beta -OHSD2) in the kidney. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and its derivatives block gap junction intracellular communication in a dose-dependent manner in animal and human cells, including epithelial cells, fibroblasts, osteoblasts, hepatocytes, and astrocytes; at high concentrations, it is cytotoxic. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid protect liver tissue from carbon tetrachloride. Glycyrrhizic Acid has been used to treat chronic hepatitis, inhibiting the penetration of the hepatitis A virus into hepatocytes. Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhizic Acid have anti-inflammatory effects in rats and mice. The acute intraperitoneal LD(50) for Glycyrrhetinic Acid in mice was 308 mg/kg and the oral LD(50) was > 610 mg/kg. The oral LD(50) in rats was reported to be 610 mg/kg. Higher LD(50) values were generally reported for salts. Little short-term, subchronic, or chronic toxicity was seen in rats given ammonium, dipotassium, or disodium salts of Glycyrrhizic Acid. Glycyrrhetinic Acid was not irritating to shaved rabbit skin, but was considered slightly irritating in an in vitro test. Glycyrrhetinic Acid inhibited the mutagenic activity of benzo[a]pyrene and inhibited tumor initiation and promotion by other agents in mice. Glycyrrhizic Acid inhibited tumor initiation by another agent, but did not prevent tumor promotion in mice. Glycyrrhizic Acid delayed mortality in mice injected with Erlich ascites tumor cells, but did not reduce the mortality rate. Ammonium Glycyrrhizate was not genotoxic in in vivo and in vitro cytogenetics assays, the dominant lethal assay, an Ames assay, and heritable translocation tests, except for possible increase in dominant lethal mutations in rats given 2000 mg/kg day(-1) in their diet. Disodium Glycyrrhizate was not carcinogenic in mice in a drinking water study at exposure levels up to 12.2 mg/kg day(-1) for 96 weeks. Glycyrrhizate salts produced no reproductive or developmental toxicity in rats, mice, golden hamsters, or Dutch-belted rabbits, except for a dose-dependent increase (at 238.8 and 679.9 mg/kg day(-1)) in sternebral variants in a study using rats. Sedation, hypnosis, hypothermia, and respiratory depression were seen in mice given 1250 mg/kg Glycyrrhetinic Acid intraperitoneally. Rats fed a powdered diet containing up to 4% Ammonium Glycyrrhizate had no treatment related effects in motor function tests, but active avoidance was facilitated at 4%, unaffected at 3%, and depressed at 2%. In a study of 39 healthy volunteers, a no effect level of 2 mg/kg/day was determined for Glycyrrhizic Acid given orally for 8 weeks. Clinical tests in seven normal individuals given oral Ammonium Glycyrrhizate at 6 g/day for 3 days revealed reduced renal and thermal sweat excretion of Na+ and K+, but carbohydrate and protein metabolism were not affected. Glycyrrhetinic Acid at concentrations up to 6% was not a skin irritant or a sensitizer in clinical tests. Neither Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, nor Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate at 5% were phototoxic agents or photosensitizers. Birth weight and maternal blood pressure were unrelated to the level of consumption of Glycyrrhizic Acid in 1049 Finnish women with infants, but babies whose mother consumed > 500 mg/wk were more likely to be born before 38 weeks. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel noted that the ingredients in this safety assessment are not plant extracts, powders, or juices, but rather are specific chemical species that may be isolated from the licorice plant. Because these chemicals may be isolated from plant sources, however, steps should be taken to assure that pesticide and toxic metal residues are below acceptable levels. The Panel advised the industry that total polychlorobiphenyl (PCB)/pesticide contamination should be limited to not more than 40 ppm, with not more than 10 ppm for any specific residue, and that toxic metal levels must not contain more than 3 mg/kg of arsenic (as As), not more than 0.002% heavy metals, and not more than 1 mg/kg of lead (as Pb). Although the Panel noted that Glycyrrhizic Acid is cytotoxic at high doses and ingestion can have physiological effects, there is little acute, short-term, subchronic, or chronic toxicity and it is expected that these ingredients would be poorly absorbed through the skin. These ingredients are not considered to be irritants, sensitizers, phototoxic agents, or photosensitizers at the current maximum concentration of use. Accordingly, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in the current practices of use and concentration. The Panel recognizes that certain ingredients in this group are reportedly used in a given product category, but the concentration of use is not available. For other ingredients in this group, information regarding use concentration for specific product categories is provided, but the number of such products is not known. In still other cases, an ingredient is not in current use, but may be used in the future. Although there are gaps in knowledge about product use, the overall information available on the types of products in which these ingredients are used and at what concentration indicate a pattern of use. Within this overall pattern of use, the Expert Panel considers all ingredients in this group to be safe.

Hypopigmenting agents: an updated review on biological, chemical and clinical aspects

An overview of agents causing hypopigmentation in human skin is presented. The review is organized to put forward groups of biological and chemical agents. Their mechanisms of action cover (i) tyrosinase inhibition, maturation and enhancement of its degradation; (ii) Mitf inhibition; (iii) downregulation of MC1R activity; (iv) interference with melanosome maturation and transfer; (v) melanocyte loss, desquamation and chemical peeling. Tyrosinase inhibition is the most common approach to achieve skin hypopigmentation as this enzyme catalyses the rate-limiting step of pigmentation. Despite the large number of tyrosinase inhibitors in vitro, only a few are able to induce effects in clinical trials. The gap between in-vitro and in-vivo studies suggests that innovative strategies are needed for validating their efficacy and safety. Successful treatments need the combination of two or more agents acting on different mechanisms to achieve a synergistic effect. In addition to tyrosinase inhibition, other parameters related to cytotoxicity, solubility, cutaneous absorption, penetration and stability of the agents should be considered. The screening test system is also very important as keratinocytes play an active role in modulating melanogenesis within melanocytes. Mammalian skin or at least keratinocytes/melanocytes co-cultures should be preferred rather than pure melanocyte cultures or soluble tyrosinase.

Stimulation of melanogenesis by scoparone in B16 melanoma cells

AIM

The effect of coumarin derivatives on melanogenesis was investigated in B16 murine melanoma cells.

METHODS

Melanin content and tyrosinase activity were analyzed spectrophotometrically. The expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) were measured either by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) or Western blot.

RESULTS

Among the coumarin derivatives studied, scoparone (6,7- dimethoxycoumarin) was the most potent; the 6- or 7-methoxy group was found to be essential for the stimulation of melanogenesis. The melanin content was greatly increased by scoparone in a dose-dependent manner; there was no cytotoxicity at the effective concentrations. Scoparone increased enzyme activity as well as protein and mRNA expression of tyrosinase. In addition, mRNA of TRP-1 and TRP-2 were also increased after treatment with scoparone. H-89, an inhibitor of protein kinase A (PKA), completely inhibited the scoparone-induced increase of melanogenesis and the tyrosinase protein.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that scoparone-induced stimulation of melanogenesis is likely to occur at the transcriptional level of melanogenesis-related enzymes through PKA signaling.

Glycyrrhizin induces melanogenesis by elevating a cAMP level in b16 melanoma cells

In mammalian melanocytes, melanin synthesis is controlled by tyrosinase, the critical enzyme in the melanogenic pathway. A recent report showed that the stimulation of melanogenesis by glycyrrhizin (GR) is because of an increased tyrosinase expression at mRNA and protein levels. But, the molecular events of melanogenesis induced by GR remain to be elucidated. In this study, using B16 melanoma cells, we showed that GR activated activator protein-1 (AP-1) and cyclic response filament "CRE" promoters, but not the nuclear factor-kappaB promoter. In addition, although GR stimulated mitogen-activated protein (MAP) kinase, p42/44(mapk), consistent with GR-induced AP-1 promoter activation, GR-induced melanogenesis was not blocked by PD98059, an MEK1 inhibitor, suggesting that MAPkinase induced by GR does not have a direct effect on the level of melanin content. But, GR-induced melanogenesis was inhibited by an inhibitor of protein kinase A (H-89). This result was further confirmed by the fact that GR induced the phosphorylation of CRE binding protein (CREB) and inhibition of glycogen synthase kinase 3beta phosphorylation as well as the production of cAMP, indicating that GR induces melanogenesis through cAMP signaling. In addition, the fact that GR-induced CRE activation was blocked by H-89 but GR-induced increase of cAMP production was not suggests that GR operates upstream of protein kinase A.

Synthesis of new glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) derivatives and their effects on tyrosinase activity

To synthesize glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) derivatives (3, 4, 5, 10, 13, 14, 15, and 16), we first removed the ketonic group in the C-11 position, and the carboxylic function at the C-30 position was kept intact, reduced to an alcohol, or transformed to an aldehyde corresponding derivatives 10 and 13. Glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) derivatives (3, 4, 5, 15, and 16) were coupled with 4-amino piperpyridine derivatives (12 and 14) and 4-fluorobenzyl bromide at C-30 carboxylic acid position of glycyrrhetinic acid. In subsequent tyrosinase assays, we found that GA derivatives 4, 5, and 16 were not active at early time points, but strongly inhibited tyrosinase activity at late time points. Of the GA derivatives examined, derivative 5 was most active, with an IC(50) value of 50 microM after 2 h reaction. IC(50) values of derivatives 4 and 16 were 120 and 170 microM, respectively. Further kinetic data indicated that these derivatives are slow-binding inhibitors of tyrosinase. The time-dependent inhibition was reversed when vitamin C or kojic acid was used, that is, both compounds showed active inhibition at early time points. These results suggest that GA derivatives are much more stable than vitamin C or kojic acid, although their intrinsic inhibitory potentials are relatively low. Higher stability and activity suggest that GA derivative 5 might be a useful candidate for skin whitening.