Topical vitamins, minerals and botanical ingredients as modulators of environmental and chronological skin damage

A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients

Background

Due to the periorbital region's high susceptibility to damage from external factors, along with its tendency to demonstrate early signs of aging, periorbital skin is a common target for antiaging therapy.

Objective

This review aims to evaluate the efficacy of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams, particularly focusing on their impact on periorbital skin concerns.

Methods

A comprehensive review of the literature on active ingredients in eye creams, including retinoids, vitamins C and E, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and niacinamide, was conducted. Clinical studies assessing the efficacy of these ingredients in addressing periorbital concerns were examined.

Results

Studies demonstrate the potential of these ingredients to improve various aspects of periorbital skin, including hydration, elasticity, collagen synthesis, and reduction of inflammatory mediators. Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and caffeine show promise in addressing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while peptides and hyaluronic acid aid in collagen production and hydration. Niacinamide and ceramides offer benefits in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the skin barrier function.

Limitations

The lack of clinical trials specifically targeting eye cream formulations and periorbital skin is a notable limitation. Furthermore, the variability in study designs, sample sizes, and concentrations of active ingredients across studies complicates direct comparisons.

Conclusion

The reviewed studies highlight the potential of active ingredients in eye creams to address various periorbital concerns. Further research, particularly large-scale clinical trials focusing on eye cream formulations and their efficacy on periorbital skin, is warranted to establish their significance and comparability with other dermatologic products.

Carbomer Hydrogels with Microencapsulated α-Tocopherol: Focus on the Biocompatibility of the Microcapsules, Topical Application Attributes, and In Vitro Release Study

The microencapsulation of α-tocopherol based on the complex coacervation of low-molecular-weight chitosan (LMWC) and sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) without harmful crosslinkers can provide biocompatible carriers that protect it from photodegradation and air oxidation. In this study, the influence of the microcapsule wall composition on carrier performance, compatibility with a high-water-content vehicle for topical application, and release of α-tocopherol were investigated. Although the absence of aldehyde crosslinkers decreased the encapsulation efficiency of α-tocopherol (~70%), the variation in the LMWC/SLES mass ratio (2:1 or 1:1) had no significant effect on the moisture content and microcapsule size. The prepared microcapsule-loaded carbomer hydrogels were soft semisolids with pseudoplastic flow behavior. The integrity of microcapsules embedded in the hydrogel was confirmed by light microscopy. The microcapsules reduced the pH, apparent viscosity, and hysteresis area of the hydrogels, while increasing their spreading ability on a flat inert surface and dispersion rate in artificial sweat. The in vitro release of α-tocopherol from crosslinker-free microcapsule-loaded hydrogels was diffusion-controlled. The release profile was influenced by the LMWC/SLES mass ratio, apparent viscosity, type of synthetic membrane, and acceptor medium composition. Better data quality for the model-independent analysis was achieved when a cellulose nitrate membrane and ethyl alcohol 60% w/w as acceptor medium were used.

Ferulic acid - a novel topical agent in reducing signs of photoaging

INTRODUCTION

Continuous production of reactive oxygen species, induced by UV radiation, is one of the main mechanisms contributing to skin photoaging. Therefore, the use of novel superior antioxidants, which ferulic acid belongs to, is an innovative treatment option. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of 14% ferulic acid peel on skin hydration, topography, the level of melanin, and the severity of erythema, in people with skin photoaging symptoms.

METHODS

20 women aged 45 to 60, received 8 treatments of chemical peeling in 1-week intervals. Efficacy was measured using The Multi Probe Adapter (MPA) Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany). The measurements were taken before, 8, and 12 weeks after the first treatment. Additionally, the photo documentation was made with Fotomedicus (Elfo) and VISIA® Complexion Analysis System (Canfield Scientific, Inc.). Results The objective evaluation showed statistically significant improvement in all measured skin parameters (P<0,05). The best results of skin hydration and melanin level were observed right after the end of the series (P<0,001). The best improvement in erythema reduction was noted a month after the last treatment (P<0,0001). At the control, untreated point none of the probes showed statistically significant changes.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, a series of treatments with 14% ferulic acid peel has a significant bleaching, erythema-reducing, and moisturizing activity. The results achieved by apparatus, are reflected by photo documentation. The effects achieved during a series persist over time.

Plant-Derived Antioxidants: Significance in Skin Health and the Ageing Process

Natural substances have traditionally been used in skin care for centuries. There is now an ongoing search for new natural bioactives that not only promote skin health but also protect the skin against various harmful factors, including ultraviolet radiation and free radicals. Free radicals, by disrupting defence and restoration mechanisms, significantly contribute to skin damage and accelerate ageing. Natural compounds present in plants exhibit antioxidant properties and the ability to scavenge free radicals. The increased interest in plant chemistry is linked to the growing interest in plant materials as natural antioxidants. This review focuses on aromatic and medicinal plants as a source of antioxidant substances, such as polyphenols, tocopherols, carotenoids, ascorbic acid, and macromolecules (including polysaccharides and peptides) as well as components of essential oils, and their role in skin health and the ageing process.

In Vitro and Clinical Safety Assessment of the Multiple W/O/W Emulsion Based on the Active Ingredients from Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L

The multiple W/O/W emulsion supplemented with the extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L. was prepared in the study, its active compounds were determined by HPLC and its safety was evaluated in vitro by the means of reconstituted human skin model EpiDerm™ for the assessment of its irritation, phototoxicity and early skin inflammation effects and by the 48 h human skin patch test for its skin irritation and allergenic potential. The microbiological challenge test of W/O/W emulsion was performed to ensure its preservation efficiency. The results showed that the W/O/W emulsion loaded with self-preserving plant-based bio-actives had no irritant potential, was not phototoxic and did not provoke skin inflammation or sensitization and thus could be used as a safe base for cosmetic products. Furthermore, our results demonstrate that the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients of natural or organic origin could be easily performed using reconstructed human skin model EpiDerm™ similar to the well-defined chemicals used in the cosmetics industry.

Protective effect of a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts on UV-induced photoaging in mice

UV irradiation exposure may induce photoaging of the skin tissue. Various plant extracts have been recognized as effective protectants against UV-induced damage. Here, a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts was evaluated for its anti-photoaging effects as a potential nutraceutical product for skin health. Hexane extract of marigold and ethanolic extract of rosemary were prepared, and the formulated mixture was investigated. A UV-induced photoaged mouse model was prepared, and the protective effects of the extract mixture were compared with those of hyaluronic acid (positive control). Expression of various photoaging-related biomarkers such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), interleukins, tumor necrosis factor-alpha, procollagen type I, 8-hydroxy-deoxyguanosine, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, and catalase were determined. UV irradiation significantly enhanced the expression of these biomarkers through an inflammatory response, however, the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts exerted inhibitory effects and protected from UV-induced damage. Suppression of inflammatory response were the mechanisms underlying this protective function of the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts. Histological evaluation also supported these protective effects against photoaging.

Nature-based botanical facial oil oxidative stress protection

INTRODUCTION

UV-induced oxidative skin stress leads to cutaneous photoaging. The objective of these 2 studies was to evaluate a nature-based botanical facial oil for the ability to decrease UV-induced oxidative skin stress.

METHODS

22 females were enrolled in the UVA study, and 10 females were enrolled in the UVB study. Skin chemiluminescence induced by UVA exposure was measured at baseline and after 2 weeks of daily topical application of the nature-based facial oil was evaluated in study 1. In study 2, UVB-induced erythema was measured after 8 weeks of twice-daily topical application of the nature-based facial oil to a photoprotected site followed by skin biopsy to evaluate sunburn cell formation. In both studies, the treatment response was compared to the response on untreated skin.

RESULTS

The nature-based facial oil significantly reduced skin chemiluminescence following UVA exposure, demonstrating antioxidant activity. The nature-based facial oil also significantly reduced erythema formation following UVB exposure and resulted in reduced sunburn cell formation in 66.67% of subjects.

CONCLUSION

Topical nature-based facial oil can reduce UV-induced oxidative cutaneous damage.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Effects of a topical lotion containing aminophylline, caffeine, yohimbe, l-carnitine, and gotu kola on thigh circumference, skinfold thickness, and fat mass in sedentary females

Background and objective

Topical aminophylline, caffeine, yohimbe, l‐carnitine, and gotu kola (Centella asiatica) may aid in reducing body fat. Lipoxyderm™ contains these ingredients and was used to test if fat loss of the thigh, in conjunction with a low intensity exercise program and restricted calorie intake, was enhanced via the topical application of this lotion.

Methods

This was a double‐blind, placebo‐controlled, within‐group study that investigated the effects of Lipoxyderm™ on thigh fat mass, circumference, and skinfold thickness. Seven participants underwent pre/post‐exercise testing for weight, bilateral thigh circumference/skinfold thickness, and body composition/thigh fat mass assessment via dual‐energy X‐ray absorptiometry. Participants followed a hypocaloric diet, walked 150 minutes/wk, and were randomly assigned to apply a placebo to one leg and Lipoxyderm™ to their other leg for 28 days. Separate two‐way mixed factorial repeated measures ANOVAs were used to compare the effects of Lipoxyderm™ to the placebo on thigh circumference, skinfold thickness, and fat mass.

Results

A significant time x group interaction was found for thigh circumference (F_1,6 = 18.2, P = 0.005), skinfold thickness (F_1,6 = 14.6, P = 0.009), and fat mass (F_1,6 = 37.1, P = 0.001).

Conclusions

A twice‐daily topical application of Lipoxyderm™ for 28 days compared to a placebo combined with a walking program and a restricted caloric intake is more effective at reducing thigh circumference (1.2 vs 0.8 cm), thigh skinfold thickness (3.7 vs 2.0 mm), and thigh fat mass (100.0 g vs 57.3 g).

A comparison of the effect of certain inorganic salts on suppression acute skin irritation by human biometric assay: A randomized, double-blind clinical trial

Background:

Strontium, zinc, and potassium salts have been demonstrated to inhibit irritation and inflammation when applied topically. Particularly, strontium chloride (SC) and potassium nitrate (KN) are reported to reduce skin and tooth sensitivity. The aim of the present study was to compare the anti-irritant effects of four inorganic salts and assign the ingredient which can suppress skin irritation due to chemical or environmental exposure, more effectively. We compared the anti-inflammatory effects of SC, strontium nitrate (SN), KN, and zinc chloride (ZC).

Materials and Methods:

This double-blind trial was conducted on 32 healthy volunteers with sensitive skin. Irritation was induced by 24 h exposure with 1.0% sodium lauryl sulfate on arms. Treatments were applied by an ointment of SN, SC hexahydrate, KN, and ZC and their 1%, 3%, and 5% (w/v) concentrations were prepared. The dosage was twice daily for 6 days to the irritated areas. Skin reactions were evaluated instrumentally.

Results:

SC had a beneficial effect that was significant overall. All other treatments exert a protective effect in skin barrier function but not significantly. With the exception of ZC, all test substances improved skin hydration but the effect of SC was significant. In respect of colorimetric assessment, all treatments, excluding ZC, reduced erythema significantly compared with an untreated control 7 days after treatment start. There was no support for a dose-response effect.

Conclusion:

Analysis of the biometric measurements revealed that the strontium salts are best, not treating is worst, and there is little difference between the other treatments. Hence, the skin care products containing SC and SN may reduce the signs and symptoms of irritant contact dermatitis.

Cellular factories for coenzyme Q10 production

Coenzyme Q₁₀ (CoQ₁₀), a benzoquinone present in most organisms, plays an important role in the electron-transport chain, and its deficiency is associated with various neuropathies and muscular disorders. CoQ₁₀ is the only lipid-soluble antioxidant found in humans, and for this, it is gaining popularity in the cosmetic and healthcare industries. To meet the growing demand for CoQ₁₀, there has been considerable interest in ways to enhance its production, the most effective of which remains microbial fermentation. Previous attempts to increase CoQ₁₀ production to an industrial scale have thus far conformed to the strategies used in typical metabolic engineering endeavors. However, the emergence of new tools in the expanding field of synthetic biology has provided a suite of possibilities that extend beyond the traditional modes of metabolic engineering. In this review, we cover the various strategies currently undertaken to upscale CoQ₁₀ production, and discuss some of the potential novel areas for future research.

Lactoferrin and the lactoferrin-sophorolipids-assembly can be internalized by dermal fibroblasts and regulate gene expression

Lactoferrin (Lf) is an iron-binding multifunctional protein, mainly present in external secretions. Lf is known to penetrate skin and may thus exert its multiple functions in skin. Sophorolipids (SLs) are glycolipid biosurfactants, which have been shown to enhance absorption of commercial bovine Lf (CbLf) in model skin via forming an assembly with CbLf. In this study, uptake and post-internalization localization of bovine Lf (bLf), CbLf, and human Lf (hLf) with or without forming assemblies with SLs in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFn) were determined using ¹²⁵I-labeled Lfs and confocal microscopy, respectively. Our results show that all 3 Lfs were internalized by HDFn; although SLs did not significantly affect the uptake of Lfs, it changed Lf localization by accumulating Lfs in the perinuclear region. Furthermore, microarrays were used to investigate transcriptional profiling in HDFn in response to CbLf, SLs, or CbLf-SLs-assembly treatments. Transcriptome profiling indicates that CbLf may play roles in the protection of skin from oxidative stress, immunomodulatory activities, and enhancement of wound healing. The assembly had similar effects but dramatically modulated the transcription of some genes. SLs alone modified signaling pathways related to lipid metabolism, as well as synthesis of sex hormones and vitamins. Thus, CbLf may exert beneficial effects on skin, and these effects may be modulated by SLs.

Vitamin E in dermatology

Vitamin E is an important fat-soluble antioxidant and has been in use for more than 50 years in dermatology. It is an important ingredient in many cosmetic products. It protects the skin from various deleterious effects due to solar radiation by acting as a free-radical scavenger. Experimental studies suggest that vitamin E has antitumorigenic and photoprotective properties. There is a paucity of controlled clinical studies providing a rationale for well-defined dosages and clinical indications of vitamin E usage in dermatological practice. The aim of this article is to review the cosmetic as well as clinical implications of vitamin E in dermatology.

Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens

Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.

Evaluation of the clinical efficacy and safety of an eye counter pad containing caffeine and vitamin K in emulsified Emu oil base

BACKGROUND

People strive to maintain the best look and have a youthful appearance. The skin around the eye is an area without many oil glands and collagen in comparison to the body rest, so it is more prone to fine lines and dehydration, which makes it look dull. The aim of this research is to develop and evaluate in vivo efficacy of an anti-wrinkle and dark circle eye pad consisting of 3% w/w caffeine and 1% vitamin K in a convenient, healthy, and cosmeceutical base.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Pre-emulsions containing selected ingredients in a specified effective concentration were prepared. The selected formulation, based upon pharmaceutical parameters, was coated on a nonwoven fabric in an eye counter shape, and stored in a jar. Then in vivo trial was carried out for investigation of its anti-wrinkling efficacy on 11 healthy women. In a single blind trial, the sample pad was applied under the right eye and the placebo pad, consisting of water, was placed under the left eye simultaneously. The efficacy and safety of the formulation was evaluated visually and with a multi skin test MC 900 instrument.

RESULT

After four weeks, the skin around the right eye of all the subjects experienced a reduction in the depth of wrinkles and dark circles, and from a subjective point of view, the appearance and elasticity of the skin were improved.

CONCLUSIONS

The caffeine pad containing vitamin K in an Emu oil base shows an improvement in eye counter appearance with anti-dark circle capacity and as an emollient.

Efficacy evaluation of a multifunctional cosmetic formulation: the benefits of a combination of active antioxidant substances

This study presents the association of active antioxidants substances in a multifunctional cosmetic formulation with established efficacy against signs of aging. A multifunctional cosmetic formulation containing an association of UV filters and antioxidant substances (liposoluble vitamins A, C and E, Ginkgo biloba and Phorphyra umbilicalis extracts) was evaluated. This formulation was submitted to a clinical efficacy study using biophysics techniques and skin images analysis (digital photography imaging systems, 20 MHz ultrasound, and reflectance confocal microscopy). The volunteers applied the formulation containing the UV filters and antioxidant substances during the day and the formulation with antioxidant substances and without the UV filters at night, for 90 days. The formulation increased the hydration and protected the skin barrier function after a single application. At the long term assessment the formulation provided an improvement in skin barrier function and skin hydration to the deeper layers of the epidermis, leading to an improvement in skin appearance by reducing wrinkles and skin roughness. The multifunctional cosmetic formulation studied can be suggested to preventing signs of aging and improving skin conditions. In addition, this study presents the benefits of associating different active antioxidants substances in a single cosmetic formulation to prevent skin aging.

Tannase-converted green tea catechins and their anti-wrinkle activity in humans

BACKGROUND

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract with high antioxidant activity by tannase treatment. Increases in gallic acid (GA), (-)-epigallocatechin (EGC), and (-)-epicatechin (EC) were observed in the green tea extract after tannase treatment.

OBJECTIVES

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract exhibiting high antioxidant activity after tannase treatment.

METHODS

Subjects, randomly divided into two groups, received the application of either tannase-converted green tea extract (TGE) or normal green tea extract (NGE) on their crow's feet for 8 weeks. The anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) self-assessment; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (R(a), R(z), and R(t) value) using skin replica and Skin-Visiometer SV 600.

RESULTS

The scavenging abilities of TGE against radicals were significantly higher compared to NGE. The evaluation of skin wrinkle index values after 8 weeks of treatment showed that reductions of R(a), R(z), and R(t) values in the TGE group were significantly greater than in the NGE group, which indicated that tannase treatment improved the anti-wrinkle effects of green tea extract. According to the overall ratings for wrinkle treatment by applying the formulations, most of the TGE group (63.60%) reported marked or moderate improvement in wrinkles compared with only 36.30% of the NGE group.

CONCLUSION

Tannase treatment can improve the antioxidant activity of green tea extract, conferring anti-wrinkle activities. These results suggest that TGE may have beneficial properties as an anti-wrinkle agent.

Photoprotective Potential of Anthocyanins Isolated from Acanthopanax divaricatus Var. albeofructus Fruits against UV Irradiation in Human Dermal Fibroblast Cells

Ultraviolet (UV) A penetrates deeply into the skin and induces the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) causing damage to fibroblasts, which leads to aging of the skin. However, the body has developed an antioxidant defence system against the harmful effects of ROS. Enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) play critical roles on the removal of excess ROS in living organisms. In this study, the antioxidant activities of anthocyanins (cyanidin 3-galactoside and cyanidin 3-lathyroside) from Acanthopanax divaricatus var. albeofructus (ADA) fruits were investigated by xylenol orange, thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARS), and antioxidant enzyme assay. As a result, generation of H₂O₂ and lipid peroxide induced by UVA-irradiation in human dermal fibroblast (HDF-N) cells was reduced by treatment of anthocyanins. Also, augmented enzyme (SOD and CAT) activities were observed in UVA-irradiated cells when treated with anthocyanin. In conclusion, the results obtained show that anthocyanins from ADA fruits are potential candidates for the protection of fibroblast against the damaging effects of UVA irradiation. Furthermore, anthocyanin may be a good candidate for antioxidant agent development.

Standardized Clitoria ternatea leaf extract as hyaluronidase, elastase and matrix-metalloproteinase-1 inhibitor

Aim:

Plant Clitoria ternatea L. is claimed to possess a wide range of activities including antiinflammatory, local anesthetic and antidiabetic effect, etc. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the wound healing potential of standardized C. ternatea leaf extract in terms of different enzymatic models, which are mostly associated with skin wound.

Materials and Methods:

The methanol extract and fractions were screened for its hyaluronidase, elastase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibitory activity compared with standard oleanolic acid. The activity was rationalized through reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC) standardization of the extract and fractions with respect to its isolated biomarker taraxerol (yield 5.27% w/w).

Results:

The extract showed significant (P < 0.001) hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ 18.08 ± 0.46 μg/ ml) and MMP-1 (P < 0.05) inhibition, but the elastase inhibition was insignificant (IC₅₀ 42.68 ± 0.46 μg/ml). Among the fractions, ethyl acetate fraction showed significant (P < 0.001) inhibition of hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ 28.01 ± 0.48 μg/ml) and MMP-1 (P < 0.01). The HPLC analysis revealed that the extract and the ethyl acetate fraction are enriched with taraxerol (5.32% w/w and 4.55% w/w, respectively).

Conclusions:

The experiment validated the traditional uses of C. ternatea and may be recommended for use in the treatment of different types of skin wounds, where taraxerol may be a responsible biomarker.

Effects of topicals on the aging skin process

This article summarizes the antiaging properties of retinoids, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, and peptide topicals. The supporting evidence is taken from the literature and the primary author's research, consisting of previously published data and new results from ongoing projects.

Tackling the aging process with bio-molecules: a possible role for caloric restriction, food-derived nutrients, vitamins, amino acids, peptides, and minerals

Aging is a multifactorial process leading to general deterioration in many tissues and organs, accompanied by an increased incidence and severity of a wide variety of chronic, incurable, and often fatal diseases. A possibility of slowing down the aging process and improving the quality of life in old age by nutritional intervention has renewed the interest of the scientific world in anti-aging therapies. These include potential dietary interventions, adherence to nutrition, hormonal and cell-based therapies, genetic manipulations, and anti-aging supplements or nutrients. This review addresses strategies to slow the aging process by caloric restriction and the use of nutritional supplements.

Convenient Synthesis of a Novel Flavonoid with Extendedπ-System: Active Agent for UVA Protection

Flavonoid derivative with extended cinnamic acid moiety was synthesized using Baker-Venkataraman reaction. The compound shows interesting UV absorption properties which make it a good UVA absorber. A bathochromic shift of 18 nm was observed when the size of cinnamic acid segment was increased by one styrylogous extension.

Retinyl palmitate–loaded poly(lactide-co-glycolide) nanoparticles for the topical treatment of skin diseases

Nanoparticles were prepared with poly(lactide- co-glycolide), Pluronic F127, and phospholipids and loaded with retinyl palmitate. Morphology and physicochemical properties of these nanoparticles were determined by atomic force microscopy, light scattering, and zeta potential. The elasticity and deformability of the nanoparticles were correlated to Tg values measured by differential scanning calorimetry. The in vitro cytotoxicity and genotoxicity of the nanosystems were determined using 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide, cell membrane asymmetry, and Ames tests with BALB/3T3 mouse embryo fibroblasts and HaCaT human keratinocytes cell lines. The reactive oxygen species levels and cytokine production in response to the exposure of cells to these nanoparticles were investigated, as well as the penetration in human skin culture.

Delayed cutaneous wound healing in aged rats compared to younger ones

Delayed wound healing in elderly males is a complex process in which the factors responsible are not fully understood. This study investigated the hormonal, oxidative and angiogenic factors affecting wound healing in aged rats. Two groups consisting of eight healthy male Wistar Albino rats [young (30 ± 7 days) and aged (360 ± 30 days)], and a cutaneous incision wound healing model were used. Scar tissue samples from wounds on the 7th, 14th and 21st days of healing were evaluated for hydroxyproline and vascular endothelial growth factor content. Macrophage, lymphocyte, fibroblast and polymorphonuclear cell infiltration; collagen formation and vascularization were assessed by light and electron microscopy. The free oxygen radical content of the wounds was measured by a chemiluminescence method. Blood sample analysis showed that the hydroxyproline and total testosterone levels were significantly higher, and the oxygen radical content was significantly lower in young rats. Histopathological, immunohistochemical and ultrastructural evaluations revealed higher amounts of fibroblasts and collagen fibers, and more vascularization in young rats. These results are indicative of the delayed wound healing in aged rats. A combination of multiple factors including hormonal regulation, free oxygen radicals and impaired angiogenesis appears to be the cause of delayed cutaneous healing.

Stability and sensory assessment of emulsions containing propolis extract and/or tocopheryl acetate

The prevention of skin aging has been one of the main aims of cosmetic products. Propolis and tocopheryl acetate can be promising substances because of their antioxidant properties. In this study, propolis extract was obtained and associated with tocopheryl acetate in a cream formulation, which then underwent stability and sensory assessment. The formulation containing propolis extract and tocopheryl acetate proved to be stable in the preliminary stability study, demonstrating gradual darkening and slight pH decrease when subjected to 60ºC for 28 days, but showing stability on rheological study. In the sensory analysis, the formulation containing these two components was preferred by the product testers over the base cream and creams containing propolis extract or tocopheryl acetate alone. In conclusion, given the stability of the formulation and the preference of the product testers for this formulation, this association proved promising for use in cosmetic formulations.

Protective effect of structurally diverse grape procyanidin fractions against UV-induced cell damage and death

UV radiation leads to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). These molecules exert a variety of harmful effects by altering key cellular functions and may result in cell death. Several studies have demonstrated that human skin can be protected against UV radiation by using plant-derived antioxidants. Here we evaluated the in vitro capacity of several antioxidant polyphenolic fractions from grape, which differ in their degree of polymerization and percentage of galloylation, to protect HaCaT human keratinocytes against UV-induced oxidative damage. These fractions inhibited both basal and UVB- or UVA-induced intracellular ROS generation in this cell line. Consequently, the same fractions inhibited p38 and JNK1/2 activation induced by UVB or UVA radiation. The highest protective effect was for fractions rich in procyanidin oligomers and gallate esters. These encouraging in vitro results support further research and should be taken into consideration into the clinical pharmacology of plant-derived polyphenolic extracts as novel agents for skin photoprotection.

In vitro and in vivo permeation of vitamin E and vitamin E acetate from cosmetic formulations

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the ability of α-tocopherol acetate (TA) and α-tocopherol (T), widely used ingredients in cosmetics, to cross the epidermal barrier using the neonatal rat as a model.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The content of T and TA in four marketed products (A-D) and two experimental formulations (F1, F2) was investigated by HPLC. An in vitro permeation study was performed in neonatal rat epidermis using diffusion cells. In vivo permeation was studied in neonatal rats after repeated application of the products and analysis of T and TA in the stratum corneum/deeper skin layers.

RESULTS

Variable contents of TA were found in the marketed products (0.12-0.53%). No vitamin permeation was detected through the stratum corneum as in vitro biological barrier after 4 h. No detectable T and TA were seen in the in vivo permeation study in the epidermis. Variable degrees of drug penetration (4.3-12.6%) of the applied dose into the deeper skin layers were observed, depending on the formulation. In vivo application of TA-containing preparations did not result in any transformation of TA into T under the described experimental conditions.

CONCLUSION

TA and T exhibited variable skin penetration and TA did not transform into T under the experimental conditions. The data underscored the need for further studies to optimize such formulations to improve vitamin E transdermal permeation and eventually achieve the expected cosmetic/therapeutic outcome.

[Objective methods for analyzing outcomes in research studies on cosmetic dermatology]

Cosmetic dermatology is a field of medicine that is in constant development; therefore, the use of objective methods for validating the findings of scientific studies is crucial. The most commonly used techniques in the majority of these studies include histopathology, immunohistochemistry, morphometry, stereology, digital photography, biometry, optical profilometry and confocal microscopy. The objective of this review was to provide an update on the principal methods used as tools for analyzing outcomes and also to provide the dermatologist with means of sharpening his/her critical judgement with respect to the publications and presentations that use subjective evaluation methods.

Solar radiation induced skin damage: review of protective and preventive options

PURPOSE

Solar energy has a number of short- and long-term detrimental effects on skin that can result in several skin disorders. The aim of this review is to summarise current knowledge on endogenous systems within the skin for protection from solar radiation and present research findings to date, on the exogenous options for such skin photoprotection.

RESULTS

Endogenous systems for protection from solar radiation include melanin synthesis, epidermal thickening and an antioxidant network. Existing lesions are eliminated via repair mechanisms. Cells with irreparable damage undergo apoptosis. Excessive and chronic sun exposure however can overwhelm these mechanisms leading to photoaging and the development of cutaneous malignancies. Therefore exogenous means are a necessity. Exogenous protection includes sun avoidance, use of photoprotective clothing and sufficient application of broad-spectrum sunscreens as presently the best way to protect the skin. However other strategies that may enhance currently used means of protection are being investigated. These are often based on the endogenous protective response to solar light such as compounds that stimulate pigmentation, antioxidant enzymes, DNA repair enzymes, non-enzymatic antioxidants.

CONCLUSION

More research is needed to confirm the effectiveness of new alternatives to photoprotection such as use of DNA repair and antioxidant enzymes and plant polyphenols and to find an efficient way for their delivery to the skin. New approaches to the prevention of skin damage are important especially for specific groups of people such as (young) children, photosensitive people and patients on immunosuppressive therapy. Changes in public awareness on the subject too must be made.

The role of phytonutrients in skin health

Photodamage is known to occur in skin with exposure to sunlight, specifically ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Such damage includes inflammation, oxidative stress, breakdown of the extracellular matrix, and development of cancer in the skin. Sun exposure is considered to be one of the most important risk factors for both nonmelanoma and melanoma skin cancers. Many phytonutrients have shown promise as photoprotectants in clinical, animal and cell culture studies. In part, the actions of these phytonutrients are thought to be through their actions as antioxidants. In regard to skin health, phytonutrients of interest include vitamin E, certain flavonoids, and the carotenoids, β-carotene, lycopene and lutein.

Cosmeceuticals vitamins

The term cosmeceutical was created over 25 years ago to define products with active substances that cannot be considered cosmetics or drugs. Cosmeceuticals are increasingly popular, with sales representing one of the largest growing segments of the skin care market. These products are found in many forms, including vitamins, peptides, growth factors, and botanical extracts. Cosmeceuticals that contain topically applied vitamins have an increasing role in skin care.

Synthesis and application of a novel sunscreen-antioxidant

Background information on the inefficacy of sunscreens to provide free radical protection in skin, despite their usefulness in preventing sunburn/erythema, prompted us to synthesize a compound which would display in the same molecule both UV-absorbing and antioxidant capacities. For this purpose, the UVB absorber, 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (OMC) was combined with the piperidine nitroxide TEMPOL, which has antioxidant properties. The spectral properties of the new nitroxide-based sunscreen (MC-NO) as well as its efficacy to prevent photo-oxidative damage to lipids induced by UVA, natural sunlight and 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM), a photo-unstable sunscreen which generates free radicals upon UV radiation, was studied. The results obtained demonstrate that MC-NO: (a) absorbs in the UVB region even after UVA irradiation; (b) acts as free radical scavenger as demonstrated by EPR experiments; (c) strongly reduces both UVA-, sunlight- and BMDBM-induced lipid peroxidation in liposomes, measured as reduced TBARS levels; and (d) has comparable antioxidant activity to that of commonly used vitamin E and BHT in skin care formulations. These results suggest that the use of the novel sunscreen-antioxidant or of other nitroxide-based sunscreens in formulations aimed at reducing photoinduced skin damage may be envisaged.

Topical polyphenolic antioxidants reduce the adverse effects of intense pulsed light therapy

BACKGROUND

Intense pulsed light therapy (IPL) has been associated with erythema and increased lipid peroxidation. Polyphenolic antioxidants have been shown to decrease inflammation and reduce oxidative stress in irradiated skin.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether the topical application of polyphenolic antioxidants to IPL-treated skin reduced the adverse effects of IPL exposure.

METHODS

In a split-face study, 10 volunteers underwent three full-face IPL treatments (16 J/cm(2), 10 ms, 560 nm filter) spaced 3 weeks apart. A polyphenolic antioxidant solution was pneumatically applied to the left side of the face, beginning immediately before the first IPL treatment then weekly for six treatments. The lipid peroxide concentration, skin antioxidant level and skin moisture content were obtained before and after the study.

RESULTS

Skin treated with IPL alone contained a significantly higher concentration of lipid peroxides when compared to skin treated with IPL plus polyphenolic antioxidants (p<0.05). Skin treated with IPL alone contained a significantly lower level of polyphenolic antioxidants and had a significantly lower moisture content (p<0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

In this study, the concurrent pneumatic topical application of polyphenolic antioxidants reduced lipid peroxidation and skin dehydration in IPL-treated skin. Polyphenolic antioxidants may confer a protective effect on facial skin and enhance the effects of IPL therapy.

Comparison of epidermal morphologic response to commercial antiwrinkle agents in the hairless mouse

BACKGROUND

A large number of commercial antiwrinkle and antiaging compounds are available to consumers for rejuvenation of facial skin ravaged by age or solar radiation. Experimental data on the histological effects of these commercial products in laboratory models are sparse.

OBJECTIVES

To compare the efficacy of topical application of five commercially available antiaging compounds (retinoic acid, glycolic acid, vitamin C, estrogen, and soy) on the dorsal skin.

METHODS AND MATERIALS

The effects were examined using light microscopic analysis of the epidermis in the normal nonirradiated hairless mouse. The agents were applied daily to dorsal tattooed areas for 2 weeks before histological assessment; neighboring untreated surface areas were used as control. Morphometric measurements of total epidermal width, nuclear volume of keratinocytes in three layers, and index of proliferating cell nuclear antigen according to immunohistochemistry were obtained and statistically analyzed.

RESULTS

Significant histomorphometric effects were noticed with all five agents, but more pronounced changes were obtained with glycolic acid, estrogen, and retinoic acid product.

CONCLUSIONS

These baseline data will be useful for future studies on the effect of ultraviolet radiation to cause photoaging and reparative effects of similar agents in this animal. The information contained in the report may provide guidelines to consumers and clinicians.

Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide

Niacinamide is known to have effectiveness on sallowness, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots in aging skin. In this study, we have evaluated the anti-wrinkle effects of a new cosmetic containing niacinamide. A randomized, placebo-controlled, split face study was performed in 30 healthy Japanese females who had wrinkles in the eye areas. The tested cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide was applied on wrinkles of one side for 8 weeks, and a control cosmetic without niacinamide on another site. Anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) doctors' observation and photographs based on the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (Ra value) using skin replica. This cosmetic showed marked and moderate improvement in 64% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control site (P < 0.001). Wrinkle grades in the tested area significantly reduced more than pre-application (P < 0.001) and the control (P < 0.001). Reduction in Ra value on the tested area was more than pre-application (P < 0.01) and the control site (P < 0.05) with significant differences. Only one subject stopped the study with minimal irritation. These results indicated that the tested lotion was well tolerated and may be an optional preparation for the treatment of wrinkles in the eye areas.

Treatment options for sun-damaged skin

Sun-damaged skin is one of the most common complaints of patients presenting to a plastic surgery or dermatology practice. Baby boomers and many others who chose to sunbathe in their adolescent years previously thought little of the potential damaging effects on their skin and are now "paying the price" (P. Kurtzweil, 1998).