Skin-lightening products revisited

Systematic Review of Platelet-Rich Plasma in Medical and Surgical Specialties: Quality, Evaluation, Evidence, and Enforcement

Background: Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) is widely used in various medical and surgical specialties for its regenerative properties, including aesthetics (facial rejuvenation, hair restoration, and skin tightening) and orthopedics (treatment of tendinitis and osteoarthritis). However, the inconsistent literature on PRP's efficacy and safety leads to critical knowledge gaps. This systematic review evaluates quality control measures in PRP preparation and application and explores the regulatory environment governing its clinical use. Methods: Following PRISMA guidelines, a comprehensive search was conducted across multiple databases, including PubMed, EMBASE, and Web of Science, for studies published from January 2020 to April 2024. The review included randomized controlled trials (RCTs) involving human participants undergoing PRP treatment for aesthetic or regenerative purposes. Key parameters such as the PRP preparation methods, platelet concentration, and quality control measures were analyzed. The study protocol was registered with PROSPERO (ID: CRD42024557669). Results: Out of 75 RCTs involving 5726 patients, the review identified significant variability in PRP preparation methods and application techniques, including differences in centrifugation protocols and platelet concentration levels. A new evidence-based scoring system, the William-Eqram Scoring System for PRP Quality Reporting (WESS-PQR), was proposed to address these inconsistencies. Correlation analysis revealed a strong positive correlation (r = 0.79) between proper temperature control during preparation and PRP efficacy. Initial platelet count assessment showed a moderate positive correlation (r = 0.57) with efficacy. Conclusions: Standardized PRP preparation protocols and robust regulatory frameworks are urgently needed to ensure the safety and efficacy of PRP treatments. The proposed WESS-PQR scoring system can serve as a valuable tool for clinicians and researchers, promoting consistency and reliability in PRP applications.

Chemical Constituents from Streblus taxoides Wood with Their Antibacterial and Antityrosinase Activities Plus in Silico Study

Hyperpigmentation frequently occurs after inflammation from bacterial infection. Thus, the inhibition activity of tyrosinase, the key enzyme to catalyze the melanogenesis and/or inhibition of bacterial infection, could decrease melanin production. Hence, the potential inhibitors could be discovered from natural products. ω-Hydroxymoracin C (1), a new compound with two other 2-arylbenzofurans, i.e., moracin M (2) and moracin C (3), and two stilbenes, i.e., 3, 4, 3', 5'-tetrahydroxybibenzyl (4) and piceatannol (5), were isolated from the wood of Streblus taxoides. Compound 4 showed a strong inhibitory activity against tyrosinase enzyme with an IC₅₀ value of 35.65 µg/mL, followed by compound 2 with an IC₅₀ value of 47.34 µg/mL. Conversely, compound 1, 3 and 5 showed moderate activity, with IC₅₀ values of 109.64, 128.67 and 149.73 µg/mL, respectively. Moreover, compound 1 and 3 showed an antibacterial effect against some Staphylococcus spp. Thus, the isolated compounds exhibited potential antityrosine and antibacterial effects. Additionally, an in silico study was performed in order to predict theoretical molecular interactions between the obtained metabolites from S. taxoides and tyrosinase as an extended in vitro enzyme binding assay experiment.

The CNC-family transcription factor Nrf3 coordinates the melanogenesis cascade through macropinocytosis and autophagy regulation

Melanin is a pigment produced from the amino acid L-tyrosine in melanosomes. The CNC-family transcription factor Nrf3 is expressed in the basal layer of the epidermis, where melanocytes reside, but its melanogenic function is unclear. Here, we show that Nrf3 regulates macropinocytosis and autophagy to coordinate melanogenesis cascade. In response to an exogenous inducer of melanin production, forskolin, Nrf3 upregulates the core melanogenic gene circuit, which includes Mitf, Tyr, Tyrp1, Pmel, and Oca2. Furthermore, Nrf3 induces the gene expression of Cln3, an autophagosome-related factor, for melanin precursor uptake by macropinocytosis. Ulk2 and Gabarapl2 are also identified as Nrf3-target autophagosome-related genes for melanosome formation. In parallel, Nrf3 prompts autolysosomal melanosome degradation for melanocyte survival. An endogenous melanogenic inducer αMSH also activates Nrf3-mediated melanin production, whereas it is suppressed by an HIV-1 protease inhibitor, nelfinavir. These findings indicate the significant role of Nrf3 in the melanogenesis and the anti-melanogenic potential of nelfinavir.

Origanum syriacum Phytochemistry and Pharmacological Properties: A Comprehensive Review

Herbal medicine has been gaining special interest as an alternative choice of treatment for several diseases, being generally accessible, cost-effective and safe, with fewer side-effects compared to chemically synthesized medicines. Over 25% of drugs worldwide are derived from plants, and surveys have shown that, when available, herbal medicine is the preferred choice of treatment. Origanum syriacum (Lamiaceae) is a widely used medicinal plant in the Middle East, both as a home and a folk remedy, and in the food and beverage industry. Origanum syriacum contains numerous phytochemical compounds, including flavonoids, phenols, essential oils, and many others. Because of its bioactive compounds, O. syriacum possesses antioxidant, antimicrobial, and antiparasitic capacities. In addition, it can be beneficial in the treatment of various diseases such as cancer, neurodegenerative disorders, and peptic ulcers. In this review, the chemical compositions of different types of extracts and essential oils from this herb will first be specified. Then, the pharmacological uses of these extracts and essential oils in various contexts and diseases will be discussed, putting emphasis on their efficacy and safety. Finally, the cellular and molecular mechanisms of O. syriacum phytochemicals in disease treatment will be described as a basis for further investigation into the plant's pharmacological role.

Superior even skin tone and anti-ageing benefit of a combination of 4-hexylresorcinol and niacinamide

Objectives

To demonstrate the synergistic effect of 4‐hexylresorcinol (4‐HR) with niacinamide in boosting anti‐melanogenic efficacy in vitro and establish the in vivo efficacy and safety of the combination in a human trial.

Methods

Primary human epidermal melanocytes and 3D pigmented skin equivalents were treated with 4‐HR, niacinamide, and their combinations for their effect on pigmentation. This was followed by a randomized, double‐blind, split‐face clinical study in Chinese subjects, and effects on skin tone, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, and skin firmness were measured for a 12‐week study period.

Results

In vitro tyrosinase enzyme activity studies showed that 4‐HR is one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors. The combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide showed a synergistic reduction in melanin production in cultured melanocytes and lightened the 3D skin equivalent model. In vitro as well as in the human trial, the combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide showed significantly improved efficacy over niacinamide alone on hyperpigmentation spots as measured by L*, the visual appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in crow's feet and perioral area and skin firmness, with no product‐related adverse events.

Conclusions

A formulation containing a combination of 4‐HR and niacinamide delivered superior skin tone and anti‐ageing benefits significantly better than niacinamide alone with no adverse events. This study demonstrates that a product designed to affect multiple pathways of melanogenesis, inflammation, and ageing may provide an additional treatment option, beyond hydroquinone and retinoids, for hyperpigmentation and ageing.

Skin-Lightening Products: Consumer Preferences and Costs

Disorders of skin hyperpigmentation have an appreciable impact on quality of life, carrying social and cultural importance that influences widespread consumer demand for cosmetic lightening products. We sought to investigate product factors that may influence consumer preference when choosing an over-the-counter cream for skin-lightening purposes. The keyword "lightening cream" was searched in the "Beauty and Personal Care category" of online retailer Amazon.com. The top fifth percentile of products was determined by filtering the search results for a minimum of four out of five stars from customer reviews, and then further filtered by products with over 100 reviews. Number of reviews, rating, price per unit, vehicle, application instructions, ingredients, and review attributes were evaluated. Over 2,900 products were catalogued as "lightening cream" on Amazon.com. There were 40 products rated >4 stars and >100 reviews, constituting the top 1.34% of entries. Tocopheryl was present in 58% of the top 40 products, ascorbic acid in 40%, and niacinamide in 20%. Notably, 22.5% of the top 40 products contained no known skin-lightening ingredient. There was a moderate positive correlation (R2=0.378) between price and consumer rating, with kojic acid being the most expensive per ounce ($24.89) and salicylic acid being the most highly rated (4.54 stars; $15.00/oz). This study provides insight on the factors influencing the choice, preferences, and satisfaction of consumer that sought Amazon for the purchase of lightening products.

Effects of human collagen α-1 type I-derived proteins on collagen synthesis and elastin production in human dermal fibroblasts

Collagen type I is the most abundant form of collagen in human tissues, and is composed of two identical α-1 type I chains and an α-2 type I chain organized in a triple helical structure. A previous study has shown that human collagen α-2 type I (hCOL1A2) promotes collagen synthesis, wound healing, and elastin production in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). However, the biological effects of human collagen α-1 type I (hCOL1A1) on various skin properties have not been investigated. Here, we isolate and identify the hCOL1A1-collagen effective domain (CED) which promotes collagen type I synthesis. Recombinant hCOL1A1-CED effectively induces cell proliferation and collagen biosynthesis in HDFs, as well as increased cell migration and elastin production. Based on these results, hCOL1A1-CED may be explored further for its potential use as a preventative agent against skin aging.

Methoxy-Substituted Tyramine Derivatives Synthesis, Computational Studies and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Kinetics

Targeting tyrosinase for melanogenesis disorders is an established strategy. Hydroxyl-substituted benzoic and cinnamic acid scaffolds were incorporated into new chemotypes that displayed in vitro inhibitory effects against mushroom and human tyrosinase for the purpose of identifying anti-melanogenic ingredients. The most active compound 2-((4-methoxyphenethyl)amino)-2-oxoethyl (E)-3-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) acrylate (Ph9), inhibited mushroom tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ of 0.059 nM, while 2-((4-methoxyphenethyl)amino)-2-oxoethyl cinnamate (Ph6) had an IC₅₀ of 2.1 nM compared to the positive control, kojic acid IC₅₀ 16700 nM. Results of human tyrosinase inhibitory activity in A375 human melanoma cells showed that compound (Ph9) and Ph6 exhibited 94.6% and 92.2% inhibitory activity respectively while the positive control kojic acid showed 72.9% inhibition. Enzyme kinetics reflected a mixed type of inhibition for inhibitor Ph9 (K_i 0.093 nM) and non-competitive inhibition for Ph6 (K_i 2.3 nM) revealed from Lineweaver–Burk plots. In silico docking studies with mushroom tyrosinase (PDB ID:2Y9X) predicted possible binding modes in the catalytic site for these active compounds. Ph9 displayed no PAINS (pan-assay interference compounds) alerts. Our results showed that compound Ph9 is a potential candidate for further development of tyrosinase inhibitors.

The effects of the oral supplementation of L-Cystine associated with reduced L-Glutathione-GSH on human skin pigmentation: a randomized, double-blinded, benchmark- and placebo-controlled clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Glutathione has become a potential skin-lightening ingredient after the discovery of its anti-melanogenic properties. Various mechanisms of action have been considered to explain this property, one of them being the skewing of the melanin synthesis pathway toward the production of lighter pheomelanin instead of darker eumelanin, consequently producing a lightening effect.

AIMS

To evaluate the skin lightening and anti-dark spot effects of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione as compared to placebo and benchmark.

METHODS

Effects of this L-Cystine-L-Glutathione oral combination were investigated in a 12-week randomized, double-blind, parallel-group, benchmark- and placebo-controlled trial involving 124 Asian female subjects. Women were randomly allocated into 4 equal groups (500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione, 250 mg reduced L-Glutathione, 500 mg L-Cystine, or a placebo, daily). Skin color was measured at baseline, after 6 and 12 weeks by spectrophotometry. Size and color of facial dark spots were determined from digital photographs.

RESULTS

A significant skin lightening was observed after 12 weeks of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione. This combination also induced a significant reduction in the size of facial dark spots after 6 and 12 weeks. It is noteworthy that the observed effects were not only significantly better than those obtained with placebo, but also with L-Cystine alone or L-Glutathione alone.

CONCLUSION

The daily oral administration of 500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione during 12 weeks was a safe treatment to effectively lighten the skin and reduce the size of facial dark spots of Asian women.

Enzymatic decolorization of melanin by lignin peroxidase from Phanerochaete chrysosporium

Skin darkening results as a consequence of the accumulation of skin pigment melanin. To combat this, the amplitude of skin lightening agents are commercially available, most of which inhibit melanin synthesis. Decolorization of melanin is an alternative method of skin lightening. In this study, we show that lignin peroxidase (LiP), an extracellular enzyme purified from Phanerochaete chrysosporium NK-1 isolated from a forest soil can effectively degrade and decolorize melanin in vitro. Decolorization conditions including pH, temperature, incubation time, enzyme concentration, and mediator addition were investigated to optimize the reaction conditions. The results indicate that pH 3, 40 °C, 15 IU/ml, and 10 h incubation were the optimal conditions for the decolorization of the melanin. The use of the mediator, veratryl alcohol was also found effective to enhance the efficacy of the melanin decolonization, with up to 92% decolorization. The scanning electron microscopy results showed void spaces on the treated melanin granules as compared to the untreated sample, indicating the degradation of melanin. Changes in the fingerprint region of the melanin were observed. Between wavenumbers 1500–500 cm⁻¹, for example, the presence of new peaks in the treated melanin at 1513, 1464, and 1139 cm⁻¹ CH₂, CH₃ bend and C–O–C stretch represented structural changes. A new peak at 2144 cm⁻¹ (alkynyl C≡C stretch) was also detected in the decolorized melanin. The cytotoxicity study has shown that the treated melanin and LiP have low cytotoxic effects; however, the mediator of veratryl alcohol could result in high mortality which suggests that its use should be meticulously tested in formulating health and skincare products. The findings of the study suggest that LiP produced by Phanerochaete chrysosporium has the potential to be used in the medical and cosmetic industries, particularly for the development of biobased cosmetic whitening agents.

Human collagen alpha-2 type I stimulates collagen synthesis, wound healing, and elastin production in normal human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs)

Skin aging appears to be the result of overlapping intrinsic (including genetic and hormonal factors) and extrinsic (external environment including chronic light exposure, chemicals, and toxins) processes. These factors cause decreases in the synthesis of collagen type I and elastin in fibroblasts and increases in the melanin in melanocytes. Collagen Type I is the most abundant type of collagen and is a major structural protein in human body tissues. In previous studies, many products containing collagen derived from land and marine animals as well as other sources have been used for a wide range of purposes in cosmetics and food. However, to our knowledge, the effects of human collagen-derived peptides on improvements in skin condition have not been investigated. Here we isolate and identify the domain of a human COL1A2-derived protein which promotes fibroblast cell proliferation and collagen type I synthesis. This human COL 1A2-derived peptide enhances wound healing and elastin production. Finally, the human collagen alpha-2 type I-derived peptide (SMM) ameliorates collagen type I synthesis, cell proliferation, cell migration, and elastin synthesis, supporting a significant anti-wrinkle effect. Collectively, these results demonstrate that human collagen alpha-2 type I-derived peptides is practically accessible in both cosmetics and food, with the goal of improving skin condition.

A novel skin brightening topical technology

Background

Effective skin lightening remains an unmet need in over‐the‐counter formulations.

Aims

This research examined a topical facial formulation containing hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C, and 5% vitamin E in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle in skin explants for UVB photoprotective effects and clinical benefits.

Patients/Method

In vitro investigation examined 12 skin explants to assess the test product and vehicle. Six skin explants received 10 μL of the study product, and six skin explants received the 10 μL of the vehicle. After 96 hours, half the skin samples were exposed to 250 mJ/cm² of UVB radiation while the other half unexposed.

Clinically, 42 female subjects with normal or dry skin 35‐55 years with skin types I‐VI were enrolled possessing discoloration, uneven skin tone, and fine lines. The dermatologist investigator evaluated brightening, evenness, fine lines, wrinkles, and global appearance.

Results

Explants treated with the study product experienced no significant change in gene marker expression of pro‐collagen and pro‐inflammatory gene markers upon UVB exposure. In contrast, skin explants treated with the vehicle experienced significant decreases in pro‐collagen expression and significant increases in pro‐inflammatory gene marker expression. Clinically, the greatest improvement as compared to baseline was seen at week 12 (P < .001) with 45% improvement in brightening, 27% improvement in evenness, 25% improvement in lines, and 25% improvement in global facial appearance.

Conclusion

Hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C, and 5% vitamin E in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle are effective in decreasing UVB‐induced photodamage in skin explants while clinically producing skin brightness improvement.

Depigmentation and Anti-aging Treatment by Natural Molecules

Natural molecules are becoming more accepted choices as cosmetic agents, many products in the market today claim to include natural components. Plants include many substances that could be of a value in the whitening of the skin and working as anti-aging agents. A wide range of articles related to natural skin whitening and anti-aging agents have been reviewed. Many plant-derived and natural molecules have shown to affect melanin synthesis by different mechanisms, examples include Arbutin, Ramulus mori extract, Licorice extract, Glabridin, Liquiritin, Kojic acid, Methyl gentisate, Aloesin, Azelaic acid, Vitamin C, Thioctic acid, Soya bean extracts, Niacinamide, α and β-hydroxy acids, Lactic acid, Chamomile extract, and Ellagic acid. Some of the widely used natural anti-aging products as natural antioxidants, collagen, hyaluronic acid, and coenzyme Q can counteract the effects of reactive oxygen species in skin cells and have anti-aging properties on the skin. It was concluded that many natural products including antioxidants can prevent UV-induced skin damage and have whitening and anti-aging effects. It is very important to develop and stabilize appropriate methods for the evaluation of the whitening and anti-aging capacity of natural products and their exact mechanism of action to ensure real efficacy based on evidence-based studies. The attention should be oriented on the formulations and the development of an appropriate vehicle to ensure suitable absorption of these natural products in addition to evaluating the suitable concentration of these molecules required having the desired effects without causing harmful side effects.

Melanogenic Difference Consideration in Ethnic Skin Type: A Balance Approach Between Skin Brightening Applications and Beneficial Sun Exposure

Human skin demonstrates a striking variation in tone and color that is evident among multiple demographic populations. Such characteristics are determined predominantly by the expression of the genes controlling the quantity and quality of melanin, which can alter significantly due to the presence of small nucleotide polymorphism affecting various steps of the melanogenesis process and generally linked to the lighter skin phenotypes. Genetically determined, constitutive skin color is additionally complemented by the facultative melanogenesis and tanning responses; with high levels of melanin and melanogenic factors broadly recognized to have a protective effect against the UVR-induced molecular damage in darker skin. Long-term sun exposure, together with a genetic makeup responsible for the ability to tan or the activity of constitutive melanogenic factors, triggers defects in pigmentation across all ethnic skin types. However, sun exposure also has well documented beneficial effects that manifest at both skin homeostasis and the systemic level, such as synthesis of vitamin D, which is thought to be less efficient in the presence of high levels of melanin or potentially linked to the polymorphism in the genes responsible for skin darkening triggered by UVR. In this review, we discuss melanogenesis in a context of constitutive pigmentation, defined by gene polymorphism in ethnic skin types, and facultative pigmentation that is not only associated with the capacity to protect the skin against photo-damage but could also have an impact on vitamin D synthesis through gene polymorphism. Modulating the activities of melanogenic genes, with the focus on the markers specifically altered by polymorphism combined with differential requirements of sun exposure in ethnic skin types, could enhance the applications of already existing skin brightening factors and provide a novel approach toward improved skin tone and health in personalized skincare.

Hydroxyl substituted benzoic acid/cinnamic acid derivatives: Tyrosinase inhibitory kinetics, anti-melanogenic activity and molecular docking studies

The inhibition of tyrosinase is an established strategy for treating hyperpigmentation. Our previous findings demonstrated that cinnamic acid and benzoic acid scaffolds can be effective tyrosinase inhibitors with low toxicity. The hydroxyl substituted benzoic and cinnamic acid moieties of these precursors were incorporated into new chemotypes that displayed in vitro inhibitory effect against mushroom tyrosinase. The most active compound, (2-(3-methoxyphenoxy)-2-oxoethyl (E)-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl) acrylate) 6c, inhibited tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ of 5.7 µM, while (2-(3-methoxyphenoxy)-2-oxoethyl 2, 4-dihydroxybenzoate) 4d had an IC₅₀ of 23.8 µM. In comparison, the positive control, kojic acid showed tyrosinase inhibition with an IC₅₀ = 16.7 µM. Analysis of enzyme kinetics revealed that 6c and 4d displayed noncompetitive reversible inhibition of the second tyrosinase enzymatic reaction with K_i values of 11 µM and 130 µM respectively. In silico docking studies with mushroom tyrosinase (PDB ID 2Y9X) predicted possible binding modes in the catalytic site for these active compounds. The phenolic para-hydroxy group of the most active compound 6c is predicted to interact with the catalytic site Cu⁺⁺ ion. The methoxy part of this compound is predicted to form a hydrogen bond with Arg 268. Compound 6c had no observable toxic effects on cell morphology or cell viability at the highest tested concentration of 91.4 µM. When dosed at 91.4 µM onto B16F10 melanoma cells in vitro6c showed anti-melanogenic effects equivalent to kojic acid at 880 µM. 6c displayed no PAINS (pan-assay interference compounds) alerts. Our results show that compound 6c is a more potent tyrosinase inhibitor than kojic acid and is a candidate for further development. Our exposition of the details of the interactions between 6c and the catalytic pocket of tyrosinase provides a basis for rational design of additional potent inhibitors of tyrosinase, built on the cinnamic acid scaffold.

Phytochemical screening and antityrosinase activity of carvacrol, thymoquinone, and four essential oils of Lebanese plants

OBJECTIVE

In our study, we aim to explore the ability of four essential oils (EO) of Lebanese plants to inhibit the tyrosinase activity and to correlate their efficiency level to their phytochemical compositions.

METHODS

The EO have been extracted by hydrodistillation using a Clevenger apparatus and have been studied by GC-MS analysis. Active compounds of Origanum species were identified and antityrosinase activities of EO and active molecules (carvacrol and thymoquinone) have been tested in tubo.

RESULTS

Antityrosinase activities were obtained as follows: EO of Origanum syriacum (80.41% ± 2.00%), EO of Origanum ehrenbergii (45.33% ± 2.20%), EO of Salvia fruticosa (14.62% ± 2.30%), EO of Calamintha origanifolia (16.51% ± 5.80%), Carvacrol (56.55% ± 3.10%), and Thymoquinone (19.49% ± 1.50%).

CONCLUSION

Origanum essential oils resulted in the highest antityrosinase activity due to their high content in carvacrol. However, when present together with carvacrol, thymoquinone decreases the efficiency of carvacrol, which is the case of O. ehrenbergii essential oil. Thus, for improved antityrosinase activity, O. syriacum and O. ehrenbergii should be harvested during flowering stage where carvacrol is present at its highest dosage and thymoquinone at its lowest.

Dual functional bioactive-peptide, AIMP1-derived peptide (AdP), for anti-aging

BACKGROUND

Human skin aging is caused by several factors, such as UV irradiation, stress, hormone, and pollution. Wrinkle formation and skin pigmentation are representative features of skin aging. Although EGF and arbutin are used as anti-wrinkle and skin whitening agents, respectively, they have adverse effects on skin. When more cosmeceutical ingredients are added to cosmetic product, adverse effects are also accumulated. For these reasons, multifunctional and safe cosmetic ingredients are in demand. The aim of the present study is to investigate the novel anti-aging agents, AIMP1-derived peptide (AdP, INCI name: sh-oligopeptide-5/sh-oligopeptide SP) for cosmetic products.

METHODS

To assess the anti-wrinkle effect of AdP, collagen type I synthesis and fibroblast proliferation were determined on human fibroblasts. The anti-wrinkle effect of AdP was examined by ELISA and cell titer glo assay. To assess the whitening, melanin content and tyrosinase activity were determined on melanocytes. The whitening effect of AdP was examined by melanin measurement and enzyme activity assay. The safety of AdP was determined by cytotoxicity and immunogenicity, CCK-8 and TNF-α ELISA assay, respectively.

RESULTS

AdP treatment induced the collagen type I synthesis and fibroblast proliferation. Also, AdP treatment inhibited melanin synthesis by regulating tyrosinase activity. The anti-aging effect of AdP is more potent than EGF and albutin. AdP did not show adverse effects.

CONCLUSION

These results show that AdP can be dual functional and safe cosmeceutical agent to prevent skin aging.

Development of highly potent melanogenesis inhibitor by in vitro, in vivo and computational studies

The present work describes the synthesis of few hydroxylated amide derivatives as melanogenesis inhibitors. In vitro, in vivo and computational studies proved that compound 6d is a highly potent melanogenesis inhibitor compared to standard kojic acid. The title amides 4a–e and 6a–e were synthesized following simple reaction routes with excellent yields. Most of the synthesized compounds exhibited good mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity, but compound 6d showed excellent activity (IC₅₀ 0.15 µM) compared to standard kojic acid (IC₅₀ 16.69 µM). Lineweaver–Burk plots were used for the determination of kinetic mechanism, and it was found that compounds 4c and 6d showed non-competitive inhibition while 6a and 6b showed mixed-type inhibition. The kinetic mechanism further revealed that compound 6d formed irreversible complex with the target enzyme tyrosinase. The Ki values determined for compounds 4c, 6a, 6b and 6d are 0.188, 0.84, 2.20 and 0.217 µM respectively. Results of human tyrosinase inhibitory activity in A375 human melanoma cells showed that compound 6d exhibited 91.9% inhibi-tory activity at a concentration of 50 µg/mL. In vivo cytotoxicity evaluation of compound 6d in zebrafish embryos showed that it is non-toxic to zebrafish. Melanin depigmentation assay performed in zebrafish indicated that compound 6d possessed greater potential in decreasing melanin contents compared to kojic acid at the same concentration. Computational studies also supported the wet lab findings as compound 6d showed a highest binding affinity with the target protein (PDBID: 2Y9X) with a binding energy value of −7.90 kcal/mol. Molecular dynamic simulation studies also proved that amide 6d formed the most stable complex with tyrosinase. Based upon our in vitro, in vivo and computational studies, we propose that compound 6d is a promising candidate for the development of safe cosmetic agent.

Carvacrol derivatives as mushroom tyrosinase inhibitors; synthesis, kinetics mechanism and molecular docking studies

The present work describesthe development of highly potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor better than the standard kojic acid. Carvacrol derivatives 4a-f and 6a-d having substituted benzoic acid and cinnamic acidresidues were synthesized with the aim to possess potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity.The structures of the synthesized compounds were ascertained by their spectroscopic data (FTIR, ¹HNMR, ¹³CNMR and Mass Spectroscopy).Mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity of synthesized compounds was determined and it was found that one of the derivative 6c possess higher activity (IC₅₀ 0.0167μM) than standard kojic acid (IC₅₀ 16.69μM). The derivatives 4c and 6b also showed good tyrosinase inhibitory activity with (IC₅₀ 16.69μM) and (IC₅₀ 16.69μM) respectively.Lineweaver—Burk and Dixon plots were used for the determination of kinetic mechanism of the compounds 4c and 6b and 6c. The kinetic analysis revealed that compounds 4c and 6b showed mixed-type inhibition while 6c is a non-competitive inhibitor having Ki values19 μM, 10 μM, and 0.05 μMrespectively. The enzyme inhibitory kinetics further showed thatcompounds 6b and 6c formed irreversible enzyme inhibitor complex while 4c bind reversibly with mushroom tyrosinase.The docking studies showed that compound 6c have maximum binding affinity against mushroom tyrosinase (PDBID: 2Y9X) with binding energy value (-7.90 kcal/mol) as compared to others.The 2-hydroxy group in compound 6c interacts with amino acid HIS85 which is present in active binding site. The wet lab results are in good agreement with the dry lab findings.Based upon our investigation we may propose that the compound 6c is promising candidate for the development of safe cosmetic agent.

The depigmenting effect of natural resorcinol type polyphenols Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from the roots of morus australis

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Morus australis, one of the major Morus species growing in East Asia, is rich in phenolic compounds. The extract of M. australis has been used as skin whitening components for a long period. The action mechanisms of its principal constituents are still unclear. This study aims to evaluate the skin lightening effects of phenolic compounds extracted from the root of M. australis in different melanocyte systems and artificial skin models.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The depigmenting effect of resorcinol type polyphenols (RTPs) from the root extract of M. australis was evaluated in murine b16 and melan-a cell lines using a combined sulforhodamine B assay. Tyrosinase activity and the expression of melanogenesis proteins were evaluated for the mechanism study. The artificial skin model is used as a replacement of the animal test.

RESULTS

Only Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T were found to have significant depigmenting effects in both murine b16 and melan-a cell lines. Their depigmenting mechanisms are slightly different in the two cell systems. In b16 cells, Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T, together with the other two RTPs, induced post-transcriptional degradations of MITF without suppressing its mRNA expression, leading to significant decreases of TRP-1 and TRP-2 production. While in melan-a cells, the levels of tyrosinase families were suppressed via MITF downregulation at both transcription and translation level by RTPs, with Kuwanon O inducing the greatest suppression. Further evaluations in artificial skin model demonstrated the outstanding depigmenting effects of Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T.

CONCLUSIONS

Kuwanon O and Sanggenon T from M.australis root extract are two potential skin whitening ingredients. To screen resorcinol flavonone derivatives with an isoprenyl group in the Diels-Alder substituent might be an option for the search of potent hypopigmenting agents from plants.

Synthesis, kinetic mechanism and docking studies of vanillin derivatives as inhibitors of mushroom tyrosinase

The purpose of the present study was to discover the extent of contribution to antityrosinase activity by adding hydroxy substituted benzoic acid, cinnamic acid and piperazine residues to vanillin. The study showed the transformation of vanillin into esters as shown in (4a-4d), (6a-6b), and (8a-8b). In addition, the relationship between structures of these esters and their mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity was explored. The kinetics of inhibition on mushroom tyrosinase by these esters was also investigated. It was found that hydroxyl substituted benzoic acid derivatives were weak inhibitors; however hydroxy or chloro substituted cinnamic acid and piperazine substituted derivatives were able to induce significant tyrosinase inhibition. The mushroom tyrosinase (PDBID 2ZWE) was docked with synthesized vanillin derivatives and their calculated binding energies were compared with experimental IC50 values which provided positive correlation. The most potent derivative 2-(4-formyl-2-methoxyphenoxy)-2-oxoethyl (2E)-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (6a) possesses hydroxy substituted cinnamic acid scaffold having IC50 value 16.13 μM with binding energy of -7.2 kcal/mol. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of (6a) is comparable with standard kojic acid. Kinetic analysis indicated that compound 6a was mixed-type tyrosinase inhibitor with inhibition constant values Ki (13 μM) and Ki' (53 μM) and formed reversible enzyme inhibitor complex. The active vanillin analog (6a) was devoid of toxic effects as shown in cytotoxic studies.

Critical review of Ayurvedic Varṇya herbs and their tyrosinase inhibition effect

INTRODUCTION

The aspiration for light skin (fair complexion) is becoming pronounced in a greater number of people in the present times with natural products being more in demand than their synthetic counterparts. Research in the area of skin-lightening agents is an expanding field with the knowledge being updated regularly. In Ayurveda, varṇya, raktaprasādana, tvacya are few terms specifying skin lightening with respect to its modern counterpart i.e., Tyrosinase inhibition, the most commonly reported method of skin lightening.

AIM

The present review is undertaken for screening twenty herbs from Varṇya Mahākaṣāya, Lodhrādi varṇya gaṇa, Elādi varṇa prasādana gaṇa and few varṇya formulations to evaluate their probable modes of action through which the skin lightening is effected as per both Ayurveda and biomedical concepts.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Critical review of herbs to show varṇya property is compiled from various Ayurvedic texts as well as from multiple articles on the internet to justify their skin lightening property on the basis of data collected.

RESULT AND CONCLUSION

All the twenty herbs reviewed are found to act as varṇya directly (citation as varṇya) or indirectly (alleviation of pitta and rakta) as per Ayurveda and to interfere in melanogenesis pathway through tyrosinase inhibition as per biomedicine. This shows their potential to act as good skin whitening agents. Śuṇṭhi being a part of many varṇya formulations, is the only herb among all reviewed in the present study found to exhibit tyrosinase inhibition without any Ayurvedic citation of varṇya property.

Kinetic and in silico studies of novel hydroxy-based thymol analogues as inhibitors of mushroom tyrosinase

The present studies reports the synthesis of hydoxylated thymol analogues (4a-e) and (6a-c) as mushroom tyrosinase inhibitors. The title compounds were obtained in good yield and characterized by FTIR, (1)H NMR, (13)C NMR, Mass spectral data and X-ray crystallography in case of compound (6a). The inhibitory effects on mushroom tyrosinase and DPPH were evaluated and it was observed that 2-[5-methyl-2-(propan-2-yl)phenoxy]-2-oxoethyl (2E)-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate (6b) showed tyrosinase inhibitory activity (IC50 15.20 μM) comparable to kojic acid (IC50 16.69 μM) while 2-[5-methyl-2-(propan-2-yl)phenoxy]-2-oxoethyl 3,4-dihydroxybenzoate (4d) exhibited higher antioxidant potential (IC50 11.30 μM) than standard ascorbic acid (IC50 24.20 μM). The docking studies of synthesized thymol analogues was also performed against tyrosinase protein (PDBID 2ZMX) to compare the binding affinities with IC50 values. The predicted binding affinities are in good agreement with the IC50 values as compound (6b) showed highest binding affinity -7.1 kcal/mol. The kinetic mechanism analyzed by Lineweaver-Burk plots exhibited that compound (4d) and (6b) inhibit the enzyme by two different pathways displayed mixed-type inhibition. The inhibition constants Ki calculated from Dixon plots for compounds (4d) and (6b) are 34 μM and 25 μM respectively. It was also found from kinetic analysis that derivative (6b) formed reversible enzyme inhibitor complex. It is propose on the basis of our investigation that title compound (6b) may serve as lead structure for the design of more potent tyrosinase inhibitors.

Screening of Panamanian Plants for Cosmetic Properties, and HPLC-Based Identification of Constituents with Antioxidant and UV-B Protecting Activities

A library of 600 taxonomically diverse Panamanian plant extracts was screened for DPPH scavenging and UV-B protective activities, and the methanolic extracts of Mosquitoxylum jamaicense, Combretum cacoucia, and Casearia commersionia were submitted to HPLC-based activity profiling. The compounds located in the active time windows were isolated and identified as gallic acid derivatives and flavonoids. Gallic acid methyl ester (3) and digallic acid derivatives (2, 6) showed the highest DPPH scavenging activity (<10 μg/mL), while protocatechuic acid (7) and isoquercitrin (10) exhibited the highest UV-B protective properties.

Mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity of Aloe vera L. gel from different germplasms

In this study, lyophilized and methanolic extracts of aloe gel from different germplasms were evaluated for their potential to inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity. The results showed potent inhibitory effect of Aloe vera gel extracts on L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) oxidation catalyzed by tyrosinase in a dose-dependent manner. Significant differences in % inhibition of tyrosinase among the extraction methods and the germplasms were observed. The relative performance of the germplasms was evaluated with the help of posthoc multicomparison test. The methanolic extract was more effective than the lyophilized crude gel in all the germplasms. The inhibitory effect of the lyophilized gel and methanolic extract tested from five germplasms followed the order: RM > TN > S24 > OR > RJN. The germplasm RM showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition, and the maximum % inhibition noted was 26.04% and 41.18%, respectively for the lyophilized and methanolic extracts at 6 mg · mL(-1) concentration. Lineweaver-Burk plots of the different concentrations of L-DOPA in the absence and presence of lyophilized gel extract showed competitive inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase in all the germplasms. This study suggests that the germplasm RM could potentially be used for the isolation and identification of the effective tyrosinase inhibitory component, and ascertains the critical role of selecting the best source of germplasm for natural product isolation and characterization.

Poly-γ-glutamate from Bacillus subtilis inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis

Poly-γ-glutamate (γ-PGA) has been considered as one of the most promising biomaterials with a wide range of applications, but there has been no report that directly shows the anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenesis properties of γ-PGA. In the present study, we investigated the inhibitory effects of γ- PGA with low molecular weight (Mw; lγ-PGA) and high Mw (hγ-PGA) on mushroom tyrosinase and murine tyrosinase activities and on melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. First, we showed that both lγ-PGA and hγ-PGA could effectively inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activities including monophenolase and diphenolase activities in a dose-dependent manner. Second, both lγ-PGA and hγ-PGA showed strong anti-tyrosinase activity and anti-melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Third, both lγ-PGA and hγ-PGA inhibited forskolin-induced tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis by decreasing the levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species and nitric oxide while increasing the catalase activity in B16 cells. This is the first report on the anti-melanogenesis effect of γ-PGA, which suggests that γ-PGA could have a potential in the cosmetic skin whitening business, therapeutic applications and the food industry.

Spectrometric analysis of mercury content in 549 skin-lightening products: is mercury toxicity a hidden global health hazard?

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic skin lightening is practiced worldwide. Mercury is a well-documented melanotoxin added to some lightening products. However, mercury can cause many dermatologic, renal, and neurologic problems. The Food and Drug Administration limits the amount of mercury in cosmetic products to trace amounts, 1 ppm.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this study was to quantitatively evaluate a large international sample of lightening products for mercury content, focusing on products available to US consumers either online or in stores.

METHODS

A total of 549 skin-lightening products, manufactured in 32 countries, were purchased online in the United States, Taiwan, and Japan and in stores in the United States, China, Taiwan, Thailand, Japan, and Sri Lanka. Cosmetics were screened for mercury content above 200 ppm using a low-cost portable x-ray fluorescence spectrometer.

RESULTS

Of the 549 tested products, 6.0% (n = 33) contained mercury above 1000 ppm. In all, 45% of mercury-containing samples contained mercury in excess of 10,000 ppm. Of lightening products purchased in the United States, 3.3% were found to contain mercury in excess of 1000 ppm.

LIMITATIONS

Our study did not evaluate creams for other melanosuppressive ingredients. Only 1 sample of each product was tested.

CONCLUSION

Our study confirms the national and global presence of mercury in skin-lightening products.

Antityrosinase and antimicrobial activities from Thai medicinal plants

Various dermatological disorders and microbial skin infection can cause hyperpigmentation. Therefore, screenings for whitening and antimicrobial agents from Thai medicinal plants have been of research interest. Seventy-seven ethanol plant extracts were investigated for antityrosinase activity, eleven samples showed the tyrosinase inhibition more than 50 % were further preliminary screening for antimicrobial activity by agar disc diffusion and broth micro-dilution methods. Artocarpus integer (Thunb.) Merr. (Moraceae) root extract, which showed the potential of tyrosinase inhibition with 90.57 ± 2.93 % and antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, S. epidermidis, Propionibacterium acnes and Trichophyton mentagophytes with inhibition zone as 9.10 ± 0.00, 10.67 ± 0.09, 15.25 ± 0.05 and 6.60 ± 0.17 mm, respectively was selected for phytochemical investigation. Three pure compounds were isolated as artocarpin, cudraflavone C and artocarpanone. And artocarpanone exhibited anti-tyrosinase effect; artocarpin and cudraflavone C also showed the potential of antibacterial activity against S. aureus, S. epidermidis and P. acnes with MIC at 2, 4 and 2 μg/ml, respectively and MBC at 32 μg/ml for these bacteria. So, these pure compounds are interesting for further study in order to provide possibilities of new whitening and antibacterial development. This will be the first report of phytochemical investigation of A. integer root.

Tyrosinase modulation by five Rwandese herbal medicines traditionally used for skin treatment

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Traditional herbal medicines provide an interesting, largely unexplored source for the development of potential new drugs and skin-care cosmetics. Some herbal extracts are known to be inhibitors of melanin formation, sometimes more potent than the classical inhibitors, hydroquinone/arbutin or kojic acid, and are not associated with melanocytes cytotoxicity or mutagenicity. Such plants are used in traditional medicine in many countries, particularly in Africa, for skin lightening.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To evaluate in vitro the ability of Rwandese medicinal plants, traditionally used for the treatment of skin (discoloration and attenuation of discolored spots), to modulate pigmentation and tyrosinase activity.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Based on an ethnopharmacological survey, five herbs [Brillantaisia cicatricosa Lindau (Acanthaceae), Chenopodium ugandae (Aellen) Aellen (Chenopodiaceae), Dolichopentas longiflora Oliv. (Rubiaceae), Protea madiensis Oliv. (Proteaceae) and Sesamum angolense Welw. (Pedaliaceae)] were selected. Twenty-seven extracts, obtained by treating the herbs with increasing polarities solvents, were investigated for their effects on cell viability (MTT test) and on pigmentation: inhibition of the enzyme tyrosinase (colorimetry of reaction products, measurement of enzyme activity, TLC-autography; studies on crude cellular extracts obtained from normal melanocytes and on a mushroom tyrosinase) and measurement of melanogenesis by human melanoma cells.

RESULTS

None of the tested plant extracts were cytotoxic on tested human melanoma cell lines, except for Dolichopentas longiflora (IC50 of leaves n-hexane extract, 4μg/ml for MM028 and 4.5μg/ml for MM001; IC50 of roots ethyl acetate extract, 0.8μg/ml for MM028 and 3.9μg/ml for MM001). Almost all extracts inhibited melanogenesis in a melanoma whole cells overall pigmentation assay, a model reflecting the entire cycle of melanogenesis. All the Protea madiensis extracts quite strongly inhibited melanogenesis and, surprisingly, one of the Dolichopentas longiflora leaves extracts was found to increase melanogenesis. These results were confirmed by the modulation of pigmentation reactions by crude cellular extracts obtained from normal melanocytes; interestingly, one of the extracts (Dolichopentas longiflora ethyl acetate extract) is even more active (61% at 500μg/ml) than kojic acid (<3% at 142μg/ml and 68% at 1421μg/ml). In a mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay, data obtained on some extracts fairly agree with pigmentation inhibition measured on melanocytes proteins as, for example, the methanol extract of Protea madiensis. While a few others extract display discording data, this probably reflects either differences between human and mushroom tyrosinase, interference with melanocytes enzymes at later steps than tyrosinase or the simultaneous presence of compounds with conflicting activities in a given extract.

CONCLUSIONS

Ethnopharmacological data represent an efficient approach to discover active herbs. Some of the selected medicinal plants clearly show potent tyrosinase inhibitions while one extract significantly increases cell pigmentation; one extract contains potent growth melanocytes inhibitors.

Photoprotective and antioxidant effects of Rhubarb: inhibitory action on tyrosinase and tyrosine kinase activities and TNF-α, IL-1α and α-MSH production in human melanocytes

BACKGROUND

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes various forms of acute and chronic skin damage, including immunosuppression, inflammation, premature aging and photodamage. Furthermore, it induces the generation of reactive oxygen species, produces proinflammatory cytokines and melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) and increases tyrosinase activity. The aim of this study was to evaluate the potential photoprotective effects of Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract on human UV-stimulated melanocytes.

METHODS

The effects of Rheum rhaponticum rhizome extract on tyrosine kinase activity, and on interleukin-1α (IL-1α), tumour necrosis factor α (TNF-α), and α-MSH production in human epidermal melanocytes were evaluated under UV-stimulated and non-stimulated conditions. Antioxidant activity was evaluated by lipid peroxidation and 1,1-dyphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) assays, while anti-tyrosinase activity was evaluated by the mushroom tyrosinase method.

RESULTS

Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract showed in vitro antioxidant properties against lipid peroxidation, free radical scavenging and anti-tyrosinase activities, and inhibited the production of IL-1α, TNF-α, α-MSH, and tyrosine kinase activity in melanocytes subjected to UV radiation.

CONCLUSIONS

These results support the inclusion of Rheum rhaponticum L. rhizome extract into cosmetic, sunscreen and skin care products for the prevention or reduction of photodamage.

Plants from Brazilian Cerrado with potent tyrosinase inhibitory activity

The increased amount of melanin leads to skin disorders such as age spots, freckles, melasma and malignant melanoma. Tyrosinase is known to be the key enzyme in melanin production. Plants and their extracts are inexpensive and rich resources of active compounds that can be utilized to inhibit tyrosinase as well as can be used for the treatment of dermatological disorders associated with melanin hyperpigmentation. Using in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity assay, extracts from 13 plant species from Brazilian Cerrado were evaluated. The results showed that Pouteria torta and Eugenia dysenterica extracts presented potent in vitro tyrosinase inhibition compared to positive control kojic acid. Ethanol extract of Eugenia dysenterica leaves showed significant (p<0.05) tyrosinase inhibitory activity exhibiting the IC₅₀ value of 11.88 µg/mL, compared to kojic acid (IC₅₀ value of 13.14 µg/mL). Pouteria torta aqueous extract leaves also showed significant inhibitory activity with IC₅₀ value of 30.01 µg/mL. These results indicate that Pouteria torta and Eugenia dysenterica extracts and their isolated constituents are promising agents for skin-whitening or antimelanogenesis formulations.

The Inhibitory Effects of Representative Chalcones Contained in Angelica keiskei on Melanin Biosynthesis in B16 Melanoma Cells

In our effort to find new whitening agents, we evaluated the effects of representative chalcones [4-hydroxyderricin (1), xanthoangelol (2), xanthoangelol H (3), deoxyxanthoangelol H (4), and deoxydihydroxanthoangelol H (5)] contained in the stem of Angelica keiskei on tyrosinase and melanin formation in B16 melanoma cells. In addition, the antioxidant effects of these chalcones in ORAC and DPPH assays were also determined. Interestingly, all chalcones (1–5) inhibit melanin formation in B16 melanoma cells, with low cytotoxicity.

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: etiologic and therapeutic considerations

Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a reactive hypermelanosis and sequela of a variety of inflammatory skin conditions. PIH can have a negative impact on a patient's quality of life, particularly for darker-skinned patients. Studies show that dyschromias, including PIH, are one of the most common presenting complaints of darker-skinned racial ethnic groups when visiting a dermatologist. This is likely due to an increased production or deposition of melanin into the epidermis or dermis by labile melanocytes. A variety of endogenous or exogenous inflammatory conditions can culminate in PIH and typically most epidermal lesions will appear tan, brown, or dark brown while dermal hypermelanosis has a blue-gray discoloration. Depigmenting agents target different steps in the production of melanin, most commonly inhibiting tyrosinase. These agents include hydroquinone, azelaic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, and certain licorice (glycyrrhiza) extracts. Other agents include retinoids, mequinol, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), niacinamide, N-acetyl glucosamine, and soy, and these products depigment by different mechanisms. Certain procedures can also be effective in the treatment of PIH including chemical peeling and laser therapy. It is important to note that these same therapeutic modalities may also play a role in causing PIH. Lastly, those lesions that are not amenable to medical or surgical therapy may experience some improvement with cosmetic camouflage.

Artocarpus lakoocha heartwood extract as a novel cosmetic ingredient: evaluation of the in vitro anti-tyrosinase and in vivo skin whitening activities

The heartwood extract of Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb. was evaluated for the in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity and the in vivo melanin-reducing efficacy in human volunteers. The IC(50) of the extract and oxyresveratrol, its major active ingredient, against mushroom tyrosinase was determined to be 0.76 and 0.83 mug mL(-1), respectively. The extract dissolved in propylene glycol was subsequently tested in female volunteers using a parallel clinical trial with self-control (n = 20 per group). The first group received the 0.25% w/v A. lakoocha solution as the test solution, whereas the second and the third group, respectively, received 0.25% licorice extract and 3% kojic acid as the reference solutions in the same solvent. The subjects in each group twice daily applied the test (or reference) solution in one of her upper arm, whereas the remaining arm was treated with only propylene glycol (self-control) for 12 weeks. The melanin content of each application site was measured using Mexameter every week and calculated as % reduction in melanin content relative to the initial melanin value (% whitening). The value of % whitening was then compared between the product-treated and the propylene glycol-treated arms within the same subject using paired t-test (alpha = 0.05). The A. lakoocha extract was the most effective agent, giving the shortest onset of significant whitening effect after only 4 weeks of application (P < 0.05), followed by 3% kojic acid (6 weeks) and 0.25% licorice extract (10 weeks). The effect also increased with time with maximum whitening observed at week 12 for A. lakoocha extract. When the extract was formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, its whitening efficacy was further enhanced. Daily application of 0.1% w/w A. lakoocha lotion to the upper arms (n = 25) and cheeks (n = 15) of volunteers produced significant whitening over the lotion base after 2 and 3 weeks, respectively (P < 0.05). Thus, the preliminary study suggested that the heartwood extract of A. lakoocha may have a promising potential for use as an effective and economical skin-whitening agent.