Hair Colors: Classification, Chemistry and a Review of Chromatographic and Electrophoretic Methods for Analysis

Chiral dual-emission composite material fluorescein/CCQDs @ZIF-8 for highly efficient recognition of phenylenediamine isomers and their oxidized product

As a new type of fluorescent nanomaterial, chiral carbon quantum dots (CCQDs) have the advantages of wide source, good water solubility and high chemical stability, and have been widely used in drug detection, bioimaging and chemical sensing. In this work, a chiral dual-emission hybrid material fluorescein/CCQDs@ZIF-8 (1) was synthesized by in-situ encapsulation strategy. Luminescence emission position of CCQDs and fluorescein are almost unchanged after the encapsulation into ZIF-8. The luminescent emissions of CCQDs and fluorescein can be observed to be located at 430 nm and 513 nm, respectively. When 1 is soaked in pure water, ethanol, dimethylsulfoxide, DMF, DMA and targeted substances solution for 24 h, 1 can maintain its structural stability. Photo-luminescent (PL) studies show that 1 can discriminate p-phenylenediamine (PPD) from m-phenylenediamine (MPD) and o-phenylenediamine (OPD), which can detect the presence of PPD with high sensitivity and selectivity (ratiomeric fluorescent probe with K_BH: 1.85 × 10³ M^-1 and detection limit: 8.51 μM). Further, 1 also effectively distinguish the oxidized product of these phenylenediamine(PD) isomers. 1 can be used as a "turn-off" fluorescent probe to detect oxidized product of PPD (ratiomeric fluorescent probe with K_SV: 6.82 × 10² M^-1 and detection limit: 0.112 mM) and a "turn-on" fluorescent probe to detect oxidized product of MPD (ratiomeric fluorescent probe: K_BH: 1.65 × 10³ M^-1 and detection limit: 35.03 μM) and oxidized product of OPD (ratiomeric fluorescent probe: K_BH: 2.40 × 10⁶ M^-1 and detection limit: 0.105 μM). Further, for the convenience of practical application, 1 can be developed as fluorescence ink and be prepared into a mixed matrix membrane. When the target substances are gradually added to the membrane, significant luminescence change with obvious color change can be observed.

Assessment of the compounds formed by oxidative reaction between p-toluenediamine and p-aminophenol in hair dyeing processes: Detection, mutagenic and toxicological properties

Previous studies have demonstrated the presence of precursors and coupling agents in wastewater from hair dyeing processes. The complex reaction involved in the oxidation of these compounds can generate extremely hazardous sub-products, leading to an increase in the mutagenicity and toxicity of wastewater. Without proper treatment, this highly toxic wastewater may find its way into the drinking water treatment plant. The present work aimed to investigate the main products generated after the oxidation reaction involving p-toluenediamine (PTD) and p-aminophenol (PAP) - precursors that widely used in the composition of commercial permanent hair dyes, under experimental conditions close to the routine hair dyeing process (in the presence and absence of hydrogen peroxide in ammoniacal medium), using spectroscopic techniques. The study also investigated the mutagenicity and toxicity of the products formed in the hairdressing wash water and conducted detection analysis to determine the presence of the precursors and Bandrowski's Base Derivative (BBD) in samples of wastewater, surface and drinking water using HPLC-DAD and linear voltammetry techniques. Based on this investigation, we identified several PTD and PAP self-oxidation products and eleven sub-products derived from the reaction between PTD and PAP. Assays conducted using Salmonella typhimurium YG1041, with and without activation-induced rat liver metabolism (S9), indicated mutagenicity of the reaction products in concentrations above 10.0 μg μL^-1. The concentrations of PTD, PAP, and several reactions and oxidation products of these precursors were detected in wastewater and water samples.

Assessment of p-aminophenol oxidation by simulating the process of hair dyeing and occurrence in hair salon wastewater and drinking water from treatment plant

This work reports the study of oxidation reaction of p-aminophenol (PAP) in ammoniacal medium in dissolved atmospheric oxygen and hydrogen peroxide, simulating the process of hair dyeing with permanent dyes. The products formed, which included semi-quinoneimine radical, quinoneimine, dimers, trimers and tetramers, were identified by mass spectrometry, infrared spectroscopy, UV-vis spectrophotometry, and nuclear magnetic resonance of hydrogen. The process was found to involve an autoxidation mechanism. The mutagenicity of the products was carried out by Salmonella Typhimurium YG1041 assay, and the results indicated no mutagenic properties. The presence of PAP and its oxidative products in samples of wastewater collected from hairdressing salon effluent (WW), raw river water (RRW), and water inlet and outlet of drinking water treatment plant (DWTP) was analyzed by HPLC-DAD. PAP was detected in the collected samples of WW, water samples from DWTP (before and after treatment), at concentrations of 2.1 ± 0.5 mg L^-1, 1.9 ± 0.3 × 10^-3 mg L^-1 and 1.3 ± 0.2 × 10^-3 mg L^-1, respectively. The reaction products, including dimers, trimers and tetramers were identified only in the WW sample; this shows that both the precursor in the sample and its derivatives were released into the wastewater.

Assessment of the autoxidation mechanism of p-toluenediamine by air and hydrogen peroxide and determination of mutagenic environmental contaminant in beauty salon effluent

The present work investigated the autoxidation reaction of p-toluenediamine (PTD) - a precursor - widely used in permanent hair dyeing formulation, under experimental conditions close to the hair dyeing process (oxygen and/or peroxide in ammoniacal medium), by chromatographic and spectroscopic techniques. In additional, evaluated the mutagenicity of the PTD oxidation products and the presence of PTD and this products in wastewater from beauty salon, as well as in surface water and drinking water using HPLC coupled to a diode array detector and linear scan voltammetry. Through this study, it was possible the identification of semi-quinonediimine, quinonediimine, dimers (derived from toluenediamine), and trimer radical identified as Bandrowski's Base derivative (BBD) formed during autoxidation of PTD. Salmonella Typhimurium YG1041 assay with and without metabolic activation induced rat-liver (S9) indicated mutagenic activity for BBD. Levels of PTD were determined by the standard addition method in samples collected from the wastewater of a beauty salon, as well as from the water before and after treatment in a drinking water treatment plant (DWTP) reached concentrations of 2.08 ± 0.21, 2.36 ± 0.10 × 10^-3, and 1.77 ± 0.13 × 10^-3 mg L^-1, respectively. In addition, linear sweep voltammetry was used to monitor the BBD found at the concentration of 1.59 ± 0.35 mg L^-1 in wastewater collected from the beauty salon.

Ultrasound-enhanced hair dye application for natural dyeing formulations

Advances made in recent years have allowed the application of colorants obtained from natural sources into textile dyeing. The use of ultrasound in the dyeing method is reported to increase dye uptake and decrease dyeing times. The aim of this work is to further extend the knowledge of natural hair dyes considering the use of ultrasound in the dyeing method with commercially available herbal dyes and using goat hair as a model for human hair. Optimal ultrasonic parameters were selected by considering the effects of sonication times (5, 10 and 15 min), frequencies (44, 400 and 1000 kHz) and total dyeing times (30, 60 and 120 min) in the morphology of the dyed hair and the colour intensity. Damage to the hair surface was evaluated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images, differences in colour of the dyed hair was obtained by ImageJ analysis and quantification of dye uptake was determined by UV-visible spectroscopy. The evidence from this study suggests an increase in goat hair coloration with the use of ultrasonic energy. Optimal dyeing conditions in consideration of colouration efficacy without hair damage were identified as sonication at 400 kHz for 10 min with a total dyeing time of 60 min.

Allergens of permanent hair dyes induces epidermal damage, skin barrier loss and IL-1 α increase in epidermal in vitro model

Allergic and irritant skin reactions caused by topical exposure to permanent hair dyes are a common problem. For regulatory and ethnical purposes, it is required to perform chemical safety assessment following the replacement, reduction, and refinement of animal testing (3Rs). Permanent hair dyes are formed by a mixture of ingredients that vary from low to extreme skin sensitizing potency and that inter-react to form unknown by-products. Because of the complex reaction, this cytotoxic mechanism has not yet been elucidated and is the subject of this study. Here, we topically exposed p-phenylenediamine (PPD), Resorcinol (RES), Hydrogen Peroxide (H₂O₂) alone or as a mixture to RhE and evaluated parameters related to skin irritation such as epidermal viability, keratinocytes damage, barrier loss and IL-1 α. Our data indicates that ingredients tested alone did not lead to an increase of cytotoxic parameters related to skin irritation. However, when the mixture of PPD/H₂O₂/RES and PPD/H₂O₂ was applied to the RhE, some of the parameters such as morphological changes including the presence of apoptotic cells, barrier loss and increased IL- 1 α release were observed. The results indicate that the mixture of ingredients used in permanent hair dyes have an irritant effect in RhE while the ingredients alone not.

The oxidation of p-phenylenediamine, an ingredient used for permanent hair dyeing purposes, leads to the formation of hydroxyl radicals: Oxidative stress and DNA damage in human immortalized keratinocytes

The hair-dyeing ingredient, p-phenylenediamine (PPD), was previously reported to be mutagenic, possibly by inducing oxidative stress. However, the exact mechanism of PPD in inducing oxidative stress upon skin exposure during hair-dyeing in human keratinocytes remains unknown. The aim of our studies was therefore to investigate the toxicity of PPD and its by-products in human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) after auto-oxidation and after reaction with hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). We found that the PPD half maximal effective cytotoxic concentration (EC50) to HaCaT is 39.37 and 35.63 μg/mL after 24 and 48 h, respectively, without addition of H2O2 to induce oxidation. When PPD (10 or 100 μg/mL) is combined with 10.5 μg/mL of H2O2, intracellular ROS production by HaCaT after 1 h was significantly increased and enhanced levels of DNA damage were observed after 4 h of exposure. After 24 h incubations, 20 μg/mL of PPD increased the level of DNA oxidation in HaCaT. Also, we found that the in vitro reaction between PPD and H2O2, even below the maximum allowance by cosmetic industries, released hydroxyl radicals which can damage DNA. Taken together, we conclude that PPD alone and when combined with H2O2 increases the formation of reactive oxygen species in human keratinocytes, leading to oxidative stress and subsequent DNA damage. These alterations suggest that the mechanism by which PPD exposure, alone or combined with H2O2, damages keratinocytes by the formation of the high reactive HO∙ radicals.

Cytotoxic and genotoxic effects of two hair dyes used in the formulation of black color

According to the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), some hair dyes are considered mutagenic and carcinogenic in in vitro assays and exposed human populations. Epidemiological studies indicate that hairdressers occupationally exposed to hair dyes have a higher risk of developing bladder cancer. In Brazil, 26% of the adults use hair dye. In this study, we investigated the toxic effects of two hair dyes, Basic Red 51 (BR51) and Basic Brown 17 (BB17), which are temporary dyes of the azo group (R-N=N-R'), used in the composition of the black hair dye. To this end, MTT and trypan blue assays (cytotoxicity), comet and micronucleus assay (genotoxicity) were applied, with HepG2 cells. For cytotoxic assessment, dyes were tested in serial dilutions, being the highest concentrations those used in the commercial formula for hair dyes. For genotoxic assessment concentrations were selected according to cell viability. Results showed that both dyes induced significant cytotoxic and genotoxic effects in the cells, in concentrations much lower than those used in the commercial formula. Genotoxic effects could be related to the azo structure present in the composition of the dyes, which is known as mutagenic and carcinogenic. These results point to the hazard of the hair dye exposure to human health.