A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers

Nutritional Assessment, Body Composition, and Low Energy Availability in Sport Climbing Athletes of Different Genders and Categories: A Cross-Sectional Study

Climbing is an Olympic discipline in full development and multidisciplinary in nature, where the influences of body composition and nutritional status on performance have not yet been clarified despite the quest for a low weight in anti-gravity disciplines such as climbing. The present cross-sectional study aimed to conduct nutritional (3-day dietary diaries) and body composition (ISAK profile) assessments on sport climbing athletes by gender and climbing level during the months of February and March 2024. The t-test for independent samples and the Mann-Whitney U-test, as well as an ANOVA and the Kruskal-Wallis H-test, were used to compare the distributions of two or more groups, respectively, and Pearson's and Spearman's correlation coefficients were used to estimate the correlations between the different variables. The mean age of the 46 Spanish climbers (22 men and 24 women) was 30 years (SD: 9) with 7.66 years of experience (SD: 6.63). The mean somatotype of the athletes was classified as balanced mesomorph. Negative correlations were observed between fat mass variables and climbing level (p < 0.010), and positive correlations were observed with forearm circumference (p < 0.050). The mean energy availability (EA) was 33.01 kcal-kg FFM-1d-1 (SD: 9.02), with 55.6% of athletes having a suboptimal EA status and 35.6% having low energy availability (LEA). The carbohydrate and protein intakes were below the recommendations in 57.8% and 31.1% of athletes, respectively. There were deficient intakes of all micronutrients except phosphorus in males. These findings suggest that climbing athletes are at a high risk of developing low energy availability states and concomitant problems. Optimal nutritional monitoring may be advisable in this type of athlete to try to reduce the risk of LEA.

Sport climbing performance determinants and functional testing methods: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Sport climbing is becoming incredibly popular both in the general population and among athletes. No consensus exists regarding evidence-based sport-specific performance evaluation; therefore, this systematic review is aimed at analyzing determinants of sport climbing performance and evaluation methods by comparing climbers of different levels.

METHODS

PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science were searched up to December 20, 2022. Studies providing the self-reported climbing ability associated with different functional outcomes in groups of climbers of contiguous performance levels were eligible.

RESULTS

74 studies were finally included. Various methods have been proposed to evaluate determinants of sport climbing performance. Climbing-specific assessments were able to discriminate climbers of different levels when compared to general functional tests. Test validity resulted high for climbing-specific cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power; similarly, reliability was good except for cardiorespiratory endurance. Climbing-specific flexibility assessment resulted in high reliability but moderate validity, whereas balance showed low validity. Considerable conflicting evidence was found regarding anthropometric characteristics.

CONCLUSION

The present analysis identified cardiorespiratory endurance as well as muscular-strength, -endurance, and -power as determinants of sport climbing performance. In contrast, balance, flexibility, and anthropometric characteristics seem to count less. This review also proposes an evidence-based Functional Sport Climbing test battery for assessing performance determinants, which includes tests that have been identified to be valid, reliable, and feasible. While athletes and coaches should rely on evidence-based and standardized evaluation methods, researchers may design specific large-scale trials as a resource for providing additional, homogenous, and comparable data to improve scientific evidence and professionalism in this popular sport discipline.

Efficacy of soothing cream gel in the range of motion and chronic pain at the shoulder and elbow: protocol of a double-blinded, randomised, placebo-controlled trial

INTRODUCTION

Upper limb problems have a significant impact on the global population leading to pain and restricted joint mobility, ultimately impacting their quality of life. Traditional treatments, such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs and corticosteroids, often come with undesirable side effects, prompting patients to seek alternative therapies. In this trial, we hypothesise that soothing cream gel (SCG) will improve range of motion and chronic pain in the shoulder and elbow. The objective of this trial is to evaluate the efficacy of SCG in improving the range of motion and chronic pain in the shoulder and elbow.

METHODS AND ANALYSIS

A double-blinded, randomised, placebo-controlled trial is conducted to compare the effects of SCG and placebo gel. SCG contains Vitis vinifera essence, Melaleuca viridiflora essential oil, etc, and is manufactured according to Good Manufacturing Practice standards. The placebo gel will be processed with similar appearance, texture and scent but will lack active ingredients. 70 participants with upper limb problems will be recruited from four study sites, including clinical centres and a sport department at the Chinese University of Hong Kong (CUHK). Participants will be randomly assigned to either treatment group or placebo group for 2 weeks. Primary outcome will be the range of motion in the upper limb, assessed by a goniometer, to measure active flexion and abduction for the shoulder, and active flexion and extension for the elbow. The primary efficacy analyses will be based on the full analysis set following the intention-to-treat principle.

ETHICS AND DISSEMINATION

The trial has obtained approval from the joint CUHK-New Territories East Cluster (CRE-2023.142), and the patient enrolment commenced in July 2023. Written informed consent will be obtained from all participants prior to participation. Study results will be disseminated through publication in peer-reviewed journals and presentations at conference.

TRIAL REGISTRATION NUMBER

NCT05799391.

Assessing the Impact of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation-Based Fingerboard Training versus Conventional Fingerboard Training on Finger Flexor Endurance in Intermediate to Advanced Sports Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Study

Competitive climbers engage in highly structured training regimens to achieve peak performance levels, with efficient time management as a critical aspect. Neuromuscular electrical stimulation (NMES) training can close the gap between time-efficient conditioning training and achieving optimal prerequisites for peak climbing-specific performances. Therefore, we examined potential neuromuscular adaptations resulting from the NMFES intervention by analyzing the efficacy of twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard (hang board) training compared with thrice-weekly conventional fingerboard training over 7 training weeks in enhancing climbing-specific endurance among intermediate to advanced climbers. Participants were randomly divided into the NMES and control groups. Eighteen participants completed the study (14 male, 4 female; mean age: 25.7 ± 5.3 years; mean climbing experience: 6.4 ± 3.4 years). Endurance was assessed by measuring the maximal time athletes could support their body weight (hanging to exhaustion) on a 20 mm-deep ledge at three intervals: pre-, in-between- (after 4 weeks of training), and post-training (after 7 weeks of training). The findings revealed that despite the lower training volume in the NMES group, no significant differences were observed between the NMES and control groups in climbing-specific endurance. Both groups exhibited notable improvements in endurance, particularly after the in-between test. Consequently, a twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard training regimen demonstrated non-inferiority to a thrice-weekly conventional training routine. Incorporating NMES into fingerboard workouts could offer time-saving benefits.

The Connection Between Resistance Training, Climbing Performance, and Injury Prevention

BACKGROUND

Climbing is an intricate sport composed of various disciplines, holds, styles, distances between holds, and levels of difficulty. In highly skilled climbers the potential for further strength-specific adaptations to increase performance may be marginal in elite climbers. With an eye on the upcoming 2024 Paris Olympics, more climbers are trying to maximize performance and improve training strategies. The relationships between muscular strength and climbing performance, as well as the role of strength in injury prevention, remain to be fully elucidated. This narrative review seeks to discuss the current literature regarding the effect of resistance training in improving maximal strength, muscle hypertrophy, muscular power, and local muscular endurance on climbing performance, and as a strategy to prevent injuries.

MAIN BODY

Since sport climbing requires exerting forces against gravity to maintain grip and move the body along the route, it is generally accepted that a climber`s absolute and relative muscular strength are important for climbing performance. Performance characteristics of forearm flexor muscles (hang-time on ledge, force output, rate of force development, and oxidative capacity) discriminate between climbing performance level, climbing styles, and between climbers and non-climbers. Strength of the hand and wrist flexors, shoulders and upper limbs has gained much attention in the scientific literature, and it has been suggested that both general and specific strength training should be part of a climber`s training program. Furthermore, the ability to generate sub-maximal force in different work-rest ratios has proved useful, in examining finger flexor endurance capacity while trying to mimic real-world climbing demands. Importantly, fingers and shoulders are the most frequent injury locations in climbing. Due to the high mechanical stress and load on the finger flexors, fingerboard and campus board training should be limited in lower-graded climbers. Coaches should address, acknowledge, and screen for amenorrhea and disordered eating in climbers.

CONCLUSION

Structured low-volume high-resistance training, twice per week hanging from small ledges or a fingerboard, is a feasible approach for climbers. The current injury prevention training aims to increase the level of performance through building tolerance to performance-relevant load exposure and promoting this approach in the climbing field.

Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers.

METHODS

A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape.

RESULTS

The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms.

CONCLUSION

Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC.

Change in grip strength, hang time, and knot tying speed after 24 hours of endurance rock climbing

Background

Non-professional climbers are increasingly attempting long routes in a single day. Many suffer injury or rely on search and rescue teams when they become too fatigued to finish. Predicting fatigue is difficult, and existing studies have only studied climbers over durations less than an hour, while many outdoor multipitch climbs require more than an hour of climbing.

Objectives

To determine how strength, endurance, and dexterity reflect fatigue after 24 h of continuous climbing.

Methods

Volunteer competitors completed measurements of grip strength, static hang time to failure, and time to tie a figure-eight follow-through knot. Measurements were taken during the registration period before the competition and again within an hour after the competition ended. Measurements were compared using the paired t-test. Subgroup analysis was applied to competitors by division. Linear regression was applied to determine the relationship between vertical feet climbed and the number of routes climbed during the competition on each metric.

Results

Thirty-six total climbers (average age 29.4 years old) completed pre- and post-competition measurements. After 24 h of climbing (n = 36), mean grip strength decreased by 14.3-15 lbs or 14.7%-15.1% (p < 0.001) and static hang time decreased by 54.2 s or 71.2% (p < 0.001). There was no significant change in time to tie a figure-eight-follow-through knot. Grip strength and hang time decreases were significant in climbers with outdoor redpoints of 5.10a and above. Hang time decreased by 5.4 s per 1,000 vertical feet climbed (p = 0.044).

Conclusion

Climbers can expect to experience a 14.7%-15.1% decrease in grip strength and 71.2% decrease in static hang time after 24 h of continuous climbing. These changes may make it difficult to climb consistently over a long objective, and climbers can use these measures at home to train for longer climbing routes. Future studies on shorter climbing intervals can help determine rates of decline in performance measures.

Functional and morphological changes in shoulder girdle muscles after repeated climbing exercise

This study aimed to investigate the acute effect of repeated climbing actions on functional and morphological measures of the shoulder girdle. Fifteen male indoor climbers participated in this study. All the climbers declared route level 6a+, as the best climbing grade (French climbing grade scale). Functional (range of motion - ROM and muscle strength), and morphological measurements (muscle/tendon stiffness and thickness) after a repeated climbing exercise protocol were analysed. The ROM and muscle strength showed significant decreases from baseline to Immediate-Post (IA) as well as significant increases from IA to 1 h-Post for all movements (p ≤ .001 for all). Muscle stiffness showed significant increases from baseline to IA after as well as significant decreases from IA to 1 h-Post for all muscles (p ≤ .001 for all). However, the thickness showed significant increases from baseline to IA for supraspinatus tendon and muscle thickness and occupation ratio (p ≤ .001 for all), while a significant decrease was observed in acromiohumeral distance (p ≤ .001). Significant decreases from IA to 1 h-Post were found for muscles/tendons and occupation ratio (p ≤ .001 for all), while a significant increase for AHD (p ≤ .001). Our data demonstrated acute alterations in tendon thickness due to acute signs of implement symptom in climbers.

Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing

The study modelled the influence of anthropometric components, climbing-specific power, strength and endurance parameters, flexibility, coordination, and motor planning skills on competitive climbing performance in speed, bouldering, and lead climbing. Sixty-one competitive climbers (26 women [18.1 ± 1.9y], 35 men [21.4 ± 6.1y]) participated. PCA and MRA were used for statistical analyses. Significant predictors for speed climbing performance (R2 = 44% and 35%) were lower (ß = .43 and .47) and upper body power and strength (ß = .40 and .37) for women and men, respectively. For women's bouldering performance (R2 = 39%), they were hip flexibility (ß = .42) and upper body power and strength (ß = .37), for the men's (R2 = 53%) lower (ß = .41) and upper body power (ß = .41) and body fat (ß = .37). For women's lead climbing (R2 = 58%) upper body power and strength (ß = .59) and finger endurance (ß = .48) predict performance, for the men's (R2 = 58%) lower (ß = .36) and upper body power (ß = .28), body fat (ß = .27) and motor planning skills (ß = .27). The multivariate models provide a framework for scientifically grounded climbing training by emphasizing the role of specific performance components.

Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review

Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.

Stiffness and thickness of the upper trapezius muscle increase after repeated climbing bouts in male climbers

Background

Indoor climbing involves overloading the shoulder girdle, including the rotator cuff and upper trapezius muscles. This on the field study aimed to investigate the effects of repeated climbing bouts on morphological and mechanical measures of the upper trapezius muscle.

Materials and Methods

Fifteen experienced male climbers participated in the study. Rate of perceived exertion (RPE), blood lactate concentration ([La^-]_b), and stiffness and thickness over four points of the upper trapezius were assessed before and after a repeated climbing exercise. The procedure for the climbing exercise consisted of five climbs for a total time of 5-minutes per climb, followed by a 5-minute rest.

Results

The analysis showed an increase from baseline to after the 3rd climb (p ≤ 0.01) for RPE and after the 5th climb for [La^-]_b (p ≤ 0.001). Muscle stiffness and thickness increased at all points (1-2-3-4) after the 5th climb (p ≤ 0.01). We found spatial heterogeneity in muscle stiffness and thickness; muscle stiffness was the highest at Point 4 (p ≤ 0.01), while muscle thickness reached the highest values at points 1-2 (both p ≤ 0.01). Moreover, the analysis between the dominant and non-dominant shoulder showed greater stiffness after the 1^st climb at Point 1 (p = 0.004) and after the 5^th climb at Point 4 (p ≤ 0.001).

Conclusions

For muscle thickness, the analysis showed significant changes in time and location between the dominant and the non-dominant shoulder. Bilateral increases in upper trapezius muscle stiffness and thickness, with simultaneous increases in RPE and blood lactate in response to consecutive climbs eliciting fatigue.

Predicting handgrip power of young adult population among major ethnic groups of Sabah: a multivariate analysis

Background

Handgrip power is an essential indicator of health, vital for grasping or gripping sports, and crucial for providing information related to work capacity. The present study investigated any linear relationship of handgrip power with hand anthropometric variables (hand length, handbreadth, middle finger length, second inter-crease length of the middle finger, and hand span), gender, and ethnicity in young adults of Sabah.

Methods

In this cross-sectional study (from January 2020 to December 2021), the adult Sabahan population (18-25 years) was stratified into four ethnicities (KadazanDusun, Bajau, Malay, and Chinese) and was further stratified as males and females. Then, 46 subjects were randomly selected from each gender, and the ethnic group met the intended sample size. The hand dimensions were measured using a digital calliper, and the handgrip power was measured using a portable dynamometer. The relationship between the response variable and explanatory variables was analyzed at first through simple linear regression and then multiple linear regression. R², adjusted R², and standard errors of the estimates were used to compare different models. Statistical analyses were performed using IBM SPSS Statistics 27 and StatCrunch.

Results

The study found a linear relationship between gender, height, hand length, handbreadth, hand span, middle finger length, and second inter-crease length of both hands with the corresponding hand’s grip power. The highest percentage (68% and 67%) of handgrip variability was demonstrated by the model predicting handgrip power for right-handed subjects, followed by the general models without stratifying based on hand dominance which was able to explain 63% and 64% of the variability of handgrip power. The study proposes the models for predicted right (RHGP) and left handgrip power (LHGP) of 18 to 25 years old adults from major ethnic groups of Sabah RHGP = − 18.972 − 8.704 Gender + 7.043 Right hand breadth and LHGP = − 11.621 − 9.389 Gender + 5.861 Left hand breadth respectively.

Conclusion

The predicted handgrip power would be a key to selecting a better player or a better worker or assessing the prognosis of a disease or the wellbeing of a person. The study can be further expanded to all ethnicities and ages of people of Sabah or even Malaysia.

The Origin, Application and Mechanism of Therapeutic Climbing: A Narrative Review

As an innovative exercise therapy, therapeutic climbing (TC) has attracted more attention than ever before in recent years. In this review of the related studies on TC, the authors explore its origin and development; summarize its therapeutic effect in treating depression, low back pain and other diseases; and further analyze its underlying mechanism. According to the literature, TC was primarily applied in the field of orthopedics and then was gradually used in neurology, psychiatry and psychology. It provides a new means for the treatment of depression, lower back pain, multiple sclerosis and other diseases. There are two potential mechanisms: physiological and psychological. In the future, exercise effects, adverse effects and exercise prescriptions of TC should be explored with large samples and high-quality randomized controlled trials.

Validity and Reliability of a Commercial Force Sensor for the Measurement of Upper Body Strength in Sport Climbing

Recreational and professional climbing is gaining popularity. Thus, valid and reliable infield strength monitoring and testing devices are required. This study aims at assessing the validity as well as within- and between-day reliability of two climbing-specific hanging positions for assessing the maximum force with a new force measurement device. Therefore, 25 experienced male (n = 16) and female (n = 9) climbers (age: 25.5 ± 4.2 years, height: 176.0 ± 9.9 cm, weight: 69.7 ± 14.5 kg, body composition: 11.8 ± 5.7% body fat, climbing level: 17.5 ± 3.9 International Rock Climbing Research Association scale) were randomly tested with climbing-specific hang board strength tests (one-handed rung pulling and one-handed bent arm lock-off at 90°). The Tindeq, a load cell-based sensor for assessing different force-related variables, was employed together with a force plate (Kistler Quattro Jump) during both conditions. Data analysis revealed excellent validity for assessment with Tindeq: The intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC) was 0.99 (both positions), while the standard error of the measurement (SEM), coefficient of variation (CV), and limits of agreement (LoA) showed low values. Within day reliability for the assessment with Tindeq was excellent: rung pulling showed an ICC of 0.90 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98; between-day reliability was excellent as well: rung pulling indicated an ICC of 0.95 and arm lock-off an ICC of 0.98. Other reliability indicators such as SEM, CV, and LoA were low. The Tindeq progressor can be applied for the cross-sectional and longitudinal climbing strength assessment as this device can detect training-induced changes reliably.

Analysis of Competition and Training Videos of Speed Climbing Athletes Using Feature and Human Body Keypoint Detection Algorithms

Compared to 25 years ago, the climbing sport itself has changed dramatically. From a rock climbing modification to a separation in three independent disciplines, the requirements to athletes and trainers increased rapidly. To ensure continuous improvement of the sport itself, the usage of measurement and sensor technology is unavoidable. Especially in the field of the discipline speed climbing, which will be performed as a single discipline at the Olympic Games 2024 in Paris, the current state of the art of movement analysis only consists of video analysis and the benefit of the experience of trainers. Therefore, this paper presents a novel method, which supports trainers and athletes and enables analysis of motion sequences and techniques. Prerecorded video footage is combined with existing feature and human body keypoint detection algorithms and standardized boundary conditions. Therefore, several image processing steps are necessary to convert the recorded movement of different speed climbing athletes to significant parameters for detailed analysis. By studying climbing trials of professional athletes and the used techniques in different sections of the speed climbing wall, the aim among others is to get comparable results and detect mistakes. As a conclusion, the presented method enables powerful analysis of speed climbing training and competition and serves with the aid of a user-friendly designed interface as a support for trainers and athletes for the evaluation of motion sequences.

Relative Contributions of Handgrip and Individual Finger Strength on Climbing Performance in a Bouldering Competition

PURPOSE

To determine the relative contributions of handgrip and individual finger strength for the prediction of climbing performance in a bouldering competition. A secondary aim was to examine the influence of body size, bouldering experience, and training habits.

METHODS

Sixty-seven boulderers (mean [SD], age = 21.1 [4.0] y; body mass = 69.5 [9.8] kg) volunteered for this study. Data collection occurred immediately before an indoor bouldering competition and involved the assessment of handgrip and individual finger maximal force production using an electronic handheld dynamometer. The bouldering competition consisted of 70 routes graded V0 to V8, with higher point values awarded for completing more difficult routes. Stepwise multiple regression analysis was used to examine the relative contributions of handgrip and individual finger strengths, body mass, height, bouldering experience, and bouldering frequency to the prediction of performance scores in the competition.

RESULTS

Ring finger pinch strength, bouldering experience, and bouldering frequency significantly (P < .05) contributed to the model (R2 = .373), whereas body mass; height; full handgrip strength, as well as index, middle, and little finger pinch strengths did not. The β weights showed that ring finger pinch strength (β = .430) was the most significant contributor, followed by bouldering experience (β = .331) and bouldering frequency (β = .244).

CONCLUSIONS

The current findings indicated that trainable factors contributed to the prediction of bouldering performance. These results suggest greater bouldering frequency and experience likely contribute to greater isolated individual finger strength, thereby optimizing preparation for the diverse handholds in competitive rock climbing.

Is COL1A1 Gene rs1107946 Polymorphism Associated with Sport Climbing Status and Flexibility?

The purpose of this study was to compare the frequency of COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism between sport climbers and controls from three ethnic groups (Japanese, Polish, and Russian) and investigate the effect of the COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism on the age-related decrease in flexibility in the general population. Study I consisted of 1929 healthy people (controls) and 218 climbers, including Japanese, Polish, and Russian participants. The results of the meta-analysis showed that the frequency of the AC genotype was higher in climbers than in the controls (p = 0.03). Study II involved 1093 healthy Japanese individuals (435 men and 658 women). Flexibility was assessed using a sit-and-reach test. There was a tendency towards association between sit-and-reach and the COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism (genotype: p = 0.034; dominant: p = 0.435; recessive: p = 0.035; over-dominant: p = 0.026). In addition, there was a higher negative correlation between sit-and-reach and age in the AA + CC genotype than in the AC genotype (AA + CC: r = −0.216, p < 0.001; AC: r = −0.089, p = 0.04; interaction p = 0.037). However, none of these results survived correction for multiple testing. Further studies are warranted to investigate the association between the COL1A1 gene variation and exercise-related phenotypes.

The influence of skill and task complexity on perception of nested affordances

This study investigated how skill level and task complexity influence the calibration of perception–action and particularly how close an individual acts relative to his or her maximal action capabilities. Complexity was manipulated between two (Touch, Grasp) and more than two (Removing, Moving Up) nested affordance conditions. For all conditions, we examined whether advanced climbers had greater maximal action capabilities than intermediate climbers or whether they better scaled their action (i.e., acted nearer to their maximal action capabilities) or both. Eleven intermediate and 11 advanced male climbers were first asked to estimate the maximum distance that they could reach a climbing hold. The hold was moved along a slide and fixed once requested by the participant; subsequently, the distance to the starting hold was measured. After each estimation, the participant was required to execute the climbing action. After four estimation-action trials in each of the four conditions, the maximal action capability (i.e., actual maximal reaching distance) was determined. Advanced climbers demonstrated greater actual maximal reaching distances than intermediate climbers for all conditions, but they only estimated greater maximal reaching distances for the more complex conditions, which featured more than two nested affordances. When estimated maximal reaching distances were scaled to actual maximal reaching distances, advanced climbers did not differ from intermediate climbers for any condition, and there were no differences between conditions. Our findings indicate that expertise was a function of greater action capabilities, but not due to the accuracy of calibration.

MBboard: Validity and Reliability of a New Tool Developed to Evaluate Specific Strength in Rock Climbers

In the present study, we analysed the validity and reliability of a new tool designed to assist the measurement of maximal upper-limb strength in rock climbers in a specific way, named MBboard. The MBboard consists of an artificial small climbing hold affixed to a wooden board, which is connected to any cable-motion strength equipment to determine the maximum dynamic strength (MBboard-1RM). Ten male rock climbers (Rock Climbing Group, RCG = 10) and ten physically active men (Control Group, CG = 10) performed, on three separate occasions, a familiarization session with procedures adopted during MBboard-1RM testing and two experimental trials (i.e., test and retest) to determine the construct validity and reliability of the MBboard during unilateral seated cable row exercise. In the first trial, the electromyographic activity (EMG) was recorded from the flexor digitorum superficialis. The self-reported climbing ability was also recorded. The RCG had superior performance (i.e. 37.5%) and EMG activity (i.e. 51%) in MBboard-1RM testing when compared with the CG (p < 0.05). There was a significant correlation between the MBboard-1RM results and climbing ability (r > 0.72, p < 0.05). Intraclass correlation coefficient analysis revealed good reliability within trials (ICC > 0.79, p < 0.05). These findings suggest that the MBboard is a valid and reliable tool to assess rock climbing-specific maximal strength. The validity of MBboard-1RM appears to be related to the finger flexor muscles activation, probably reflecting the specific adaptations resulting from long-term practice of this sport discipline.

Effects of Two vs. Four Weekly Campus Board Training Sessions on Bouldering Performance and Climbing-Specific Tests in Advanced and Elite Climbers

This study examined the effects of two or four weekly campus board training sessions among highly accomplished lead climbers. Sixteen advanced-to-elite climbers were randomly allocated to two (TG2), or four weekly campus board training sessions (TG4), or a control group (CG). All groups continued their normal climbing routines. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal isometric pull-up strength using a shallow rung and a large hold (jug), and maximal reach and moves to failure. Rate of force development (RFD; absolute and 100ms) was calculated in the rung condition. TG4 improved maximal force in the jug condition (effect size (ES) = 0.40, p = 0.043), and absolute RFD more than CG (ES = 2.92, p = 0.025), whereas TG2 improved bouldering performance (ES = 2.59, p = 0.016) and maximal moves to failure on the campus board more than CG (ES = 1.65, p = 0.008). No differences between the training groups were found (p = 0.107-1.000). When merging the training groups, the training improved strength in the rung condition (ES = 0.87, p = 0.002), bouldering performance (ES = 2.37, p = 0.006), maximal reach (ES = 1.66, p = 0.006) and moves to failure (ES = 1.43, p = 0.040) more than CG. In conclusion, a five-week campus board training-block is sufficient for improving climbing-specific attributes among advanced-to-elite climbers. Sessions should be divided over four days to improve RFD or divided over two days to improve bouldering performance, compared to regular climbing training.

The Case for Retiring Flexibility as a Major Component of Physical Fitness

Flexibility refers to the intrinsic properties of body tissues that determine maximal joint range of motion without causing injury. For many years, flexibility has been classified by the American College of Sports Medicine as a major component of physical fitness. The notion flexibility is important for fitness has also led to the idea static stretching should be prescribed to improve flexibility. The current paper proposes flexibility be retired as a major component of physical fitness, and consequently, stretching be de-emphasized as a standard component of exercise prescriptions for most populations. First, I show flexibility has little predictive or concurrent validity with health and performance outcomes (e.g., mortality, falls, occupational performance) in apparently healthy individuals, particularly when viewed in light of the other major components of fitness (i.e., body composition, cardiovascular endurance, muscle endurance, muscle strength). Second, I explain that if flexibility requires improvement, this does not necessitate a prescription of stretching in most populations. Flexibility can be maintained or improved by exercise modalities that cause more robust health benefits than stretching (e.g., resistance training). Retirement of flexibility as a major component of physical fitness will simplify fitness batteries; save time and resources dedicated to flexibility instruction, measurement, and evaluation; and prevent erroneous conclusions about fitness status when interpreting flexibility scores. De-emphasis of stretching in exercise prescriptions will ensure stretching does not negatively impact other exercise and does not take away from time that could be allocated to training activities that have more robust health and performance benefits.

The Physical Parameters of Tactical Climbing and Performance Characteristics of Naval Special Warfare Operators

ABSTRACT

Wood, DE and Swain, DP. The physical parameters of tactical climbing and performance characteristics of naval special warfare operators. J Strength Cond Res 35(4): 949-954, 2021-Vertical elevation may be critical for advantage to Special Operation Forces and require strength, power, endurance, and technique. This study sought to (a) study differences in physical capacities of Naval Special Warfare lead climbers from nonlead climbers, (b) compare anthropometrics of lead climbers from nonlead climbers, and (c) catalogue the types and weights of the various climbing systems to assess total system weight to the lead climber's body mass. Climbing surveys were collected and retrospective physical capacity data from 15 SEa, Air and Land lead climbers (age: 31.2 ± 5.1 years; height: 181.4 ± 6.4 cm; mass: 89.4 ± 10.0 kg; body fat: 14.1 ± 3.7%) were compared against previously reported data of 305 nonlead climbers (age: 28.8 ± 5.2 years; height: 177.6 ± 12.0 cm; mass: 85.8 ± 9.7 kg; body fat: 17.3 ± 4.7%). Lead climbers had significantly less body fat percentage (p = 0.017). Lead climbers also performed significantly better on the pro-agility test (p = 0.017) and deadlift (p = 0.002). The total mass reported for the climbing equipment for each tactical scenario was up to 4.9 kg for urban climbing, up to 13.7 kg for alpine climbing, and up to 8.0 kg for maritime climbing. With a typical combat load of 21.4 kg, adding an alpine climbing load exceeds one-third of the lead climbers' own body mass. Strength and conditioning programming for this population should take into consideration the total system weight for testing and training purposes and should also consider climbing-specific strength testing and training to optimize climbing capability.

Upper body rate of force development and maximal strength discriminates performance levels in sport climbing

The aim of this study was to assess and compare the maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced and elite climbers using several different methods for calculating RFD. Fifty-seven male climbers (17 intermediate, 25 advanced, and 15 elite) performed isometric pull-ups on a climbing-specific hold while the RFD was calculated using several absolute (50, 100, 150, 200, and 250 ms from onset of force) and relative time periods (25, 50, 75, 95, and 100% of time to peak force). The maximal force was higher among elite climbers compared to advanced (ES = 1.78, p < 0.001) and intermediate climbers (ES = 1.77, p < 0.001), while no difference was observed between intermediate and advanced climbers (P = 0.898). The elite group also showed higher RFD than the other two groups at all relative time periods (ES = 1.02-1.58, p < 0.001-0.002), whereas the absolute time periods only revealed differences between the elite vs. the other groups at 50, 100 and 150 ms from the onset of force (ES = 0.72-0.84, p = 0.032-0.040). No differences in RFD were observed between the intermediate and advanced groups at any time period (p = 0.942-1.000). Maximal force and RFD, especially calculated using the longer periods of the force curve, may be used to distinguish elite climbers from advanced and intermediate climbers. The authors suggest using relative rather than absolute time periods when analyzing the RFD of climbers.

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes-A Cross-Sectional Study

In recent years, climbing sports is on the rise making its Olympic debut in 2021. Physiological traits of professional rock climbers have been intensively studied, while recreational indoor climbers are less investigated, especially regarding grip strength and upper extremity proportions. In this cross-sectional study, we aimed to understand what discerns the recreational climber from disparate recreational athletes. Therefore, we analyzed 50 recreational climbing (30.3 ± 12.7 years, 1.76 ± 0.09 m and 67.0 ± 14.0 kg) and 50 non-climbing athletes (26.4 ± 9.1 years, 1.78 ± 0.09 m and 73.2 ± 12.6 kg) to detect differences in their finger grip strength of seven different pinches. In addition, the upper extremity proportions were measured. Even in recreational climbers, almost all analyzed grips were stronger compared to other athletes (p < 0.05 in all but non-dominant fist, small to moderate effect sizes). Only the grip strength of the whole non-dominant hand was not significantly different (p = 0.17). Interestingly, differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand appeared to be larger in the non-climbing (all p < 0.05, all but one with small effect size) compared to the climbing cohort (pinch I/IV and pinch I/II+III+IV not different and mostly trivial). Circumference measurements showed that 10 cm below the lateral epicondyle, climbers exhibited significantly greater perimeter compared to non-climbing athletes (p < 0.05, small effect size). Our results show that recreational climbers have higher measured grip strength, but less profound differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand.

Acute Hamstring Muscle Tears in Climbers-Current Rehabilitation Concepts

Acute hamstring injuries are often caused by the heel hook technique. This technique is unique to climbing and causes injury to muscular and inert tissues of the posterior thigh. The heel hook is used by climbers during strenuous ascent on overhanging walls and when crossing difficult terrain. The technique reduces the amount of upper body strength required during strenuous climbing because the climber's center of mass is retained within the base of support. The heel hook is stressful collectively for the hamstring muscle group and musculotendinous junction. Depending on injury severity, both conservative and surgical methods exist for the management of hamstring injuries. Contemporary approaches to rehabilitation primarily advocate the use of eccentric muscle strengthening strategies because of high rates of elongation stress associated with sprinting and team sports. However, there is reason to doubt whether this alone is sufficient to rehabilitate the climbing athlete in light of the high degree of concentric muscle strength required in the heel hook maneuver. This review examines the contemporary rehabilitation and strength and conditioning literature in relation to the management of acute hamstring musculotendinous injuries for the climbing athlete. The review provides a comprehensive approach for the rehabilitation and athletic preparation of the climbing athlete from the initial injury to full return to sports participation.

Association between MCT1 T1470A polymorphism and climbing status in Polish and Japanese climbers

Sport climbing will become an official event at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics; it is a popular wilderness sport among athletes and amateurs. Our previous study suggested that the T1470A polymorphism (rs1049434) of the monocarboxylate transporter 1 (MCT1) gene is associated with athletic performance and physiological phenotypes. The purpose of this study was to investigate the frequency of MCT1 T1470A polymorphism in Polish and Japanese climbers using a case-control study. Our sample consisted of 226 climbers (Japanese: n = 100, 64 male and 36 female; Polish: n = 126, 97 male and 29 female) and 1028 non-athletic controls (Japanese, n = 407; Polish = 621) who were genotyped for the MCT1 T1470A polymorphism (rs1049434) using the TaqMan SNP genotyping assay or restriction enzyme. The frequency of the TT genotype and T allele was significantly higher in climbers than in controls among the Polish subjects (genotype: p = 0.030, allele: p = 0.010); however, there were no significant differences in the genotype and allelic frequencies between the Japanese climbers and controls (genotype: p = 0.968; allele: p = 0.803). Our results suggested that the frequency of the T allele (TT+TA genotype) in the MCT1 T1470A polymorphism is over-represented in Polish climbers but not in Japanese climbers. In addition, the frequency of the T allele and TT genotype in Polish lead climbers is higher than that in controls.

Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers

Despite climbing's popularity and an increasing number of female participants, there are limited anthropometric and performance data for this population. This study compares the characteristics of 55 experienced female climbers, divided into three categories (lower [ADV-L] and higher advanced [ADV-H] and elite [ELT]) based on self-reported ability. Data on climbing experience, body dimensions, body composition, flexibility, lower and upper-body power and finger strength were assessed. ELT climbers differed significantly from the ADV groups in age (Mean Difference [MD] = 8.8-9.8 yrs; despite smaller differences in years climbing MD = 1.6-2.4 yrs), greater climbing and hours training per week (MD = 3.0-3.7 h & MD = 0.9-1.6 h, respectively), and greater upper-body power (MD = 12.9-16.6 cm) and finger strength (MD = 51.6-65.4 N). Linear regression analysis showed finger strength and upper body power to be associated with ability, particularly when adjusting for descriptive and anthropometric variables (finger strength R² = 53% and 45%; upper-body power R² = 60% and 39% for boulder and sport, respectively). The findings support the importance of finger strength and upper-body power; changes in female anthropometric data over the last decade provide insight into the changing nature of the sport.

Importance and Diagnosis of Flexibility Preparation of Male Sport Climbers

The objective of the study was to verify the relationships between sport skill levels and to identify the tests that accurately diagnose flexibility of sport climbers. This study examined 60 competitive advanced–higher elite male 7b–9a redpoint (RP) climbers. The athletes performed commonly used flexibility tests (stand-and-reach, straddle sit, straddle stand) and climbing-specific flexibility tests. Significant correlations were found between sport skill levels for the straddle stand test (r = −0.48) and the straddle sit test (r = −0.41). No significant correlations were observed between climbing-specific flexibility tests and sports skill level of climbers. Hip abduction evaluated using the straddle sit and straddle stand tests were significantly correlated with sports skill level and thus can be approached as a tool to diagnose flexibility of climbers. Flexibility is very specific and difficult to diagnose in climbing, but it should be developed.

Physical and Physiological Determinants of Rock Climbing

PURPOSE

Rock climbing performance relies on many characteristics. Herein, the authors identified the physical and physiological determinants of peak performance in rock climbing across the range from lower grade to elite.

METHODS

Forty four male and 33 female climbers with onsight maximal climbing grades 5a-8a and 5a-7b+, respectively, were tested for physical, physiological, and psychological characteristics (independent variables) that were correlated and modeled by multiple regression and principal component analysis to identify the determinants of rock climbing ability.

RESULTS

In males, 23 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .773-.340), including shoulder endurance, hand and finger strength, shoulder power endurance, hip flexibility, lower-arm grip strength, shoulder power, upper-arm strength, core-body endurance, upper-body aerobic endurance, hamstrings and lower-back flexibility, aerobic endurance, and open-hand finger strength. In females, 10 of 47 variables correlated with climbing ability (P < .05, Pearson correlation coefficients .742-.482): shoulder endurance and power, lower-arm grip strength, balance, aerobic endurance, and arm span. Principal component analysis and univariate multiple regression identified the main explanatory variables. In both sexes, shoulder power and endurance measured as maximum pull-ups, average arm crank power, and bent-arm hang, emerged as the main determinants (P < .01; adjusted R2 = .77 in males and .62 in females). In males, finger pincer (P = .07) and grip strength also had trends (P = .09) toward significant effects. Finally, in test-of-principle training studies, they trained to increase main determinants 42% to 67%; this improved climbing ability 2 to 3 grades.

CONCLUSIONS

Shoulder power and endurance majorly determines maximal climbing. Finger, hand, and arm strength, core-body endurance, aerobic endurance, flexibility, and balance are important secondary determinants.

Comparison of climbing-specific strength and endurance between lead and boulder climbers

Albeit differences in climbing-specific strength of the forearms have been demonstrated between lead and boulder climbers, little is known about the potential differences in force and power output of the upper body pulling-apparatus between disciplines. The aim of this study was to compare the climbing-specific upper-body strength and finger flexor endurance between lead and boulder climbers, as well as to examine the relative utilization of force when testing on a ledge hold compared to a jug hold. Sixteen boulder climbers (red-point climbing grade 17.9 ± 3.3) and fifteen lead climbers (red-point climbing grade 20.5 ± 3.5) performing on an advanced level volunteered for the study. Peak force, average force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during an isometric pull-up, average velocity in dynamic pull-up, and finger flexor endurance in an intermittent test to fatigue. The isometric pull-up was performed on a ledge hold (high finger strength requirements) and on a jug hold (very low finger strength requirements). Boulder climbers demonstrated a higher maximal and explosive strength in all strength and power measurements (26.2–52.9%, ES = 0.90–1.12, p = 0.006–0.023), whereas the finger flexor endurance test showed no significant difference between the groups (p = 0.088). Both groups were able to utilize 57–69% of peak force, average force and RFD in the ledge condition compared to the jug condition, but the relative utilization was not different between the groups (p = 0.290–0.996). In conclusion, boulder climbers were stronger and more explosive compared to lead climbers, whereas no differences in finger flexor endurance were observed. Performing climbing-specific tests on a smaller hold appears to limit the force and power output equally between the two groups.

Factors Related to Average Concentric Velocity of Four Barbell Exercises at Various Loads

Fahs, CA, Blumkaitis, JC, and Rossow, LM. Factors related to average concentric velocity of four barbell exercises at various loads. J Strength Cond Res 33(3): 597-605, 2019-The resistance exercise load is the primarily determinant of the average concentric velocity (ACV) during a repetition. It is unknown whether individual factors such as training experience or anthropometrics also influence the ACV. Previous research has shown the ACV during the 1 repetition maximum (1RM) varies between exercises, but it is not clear whether ACV is different between exercises at various percentages of the 1RM. This information could provide practical guidelines for trainees using ACV to select training loads. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to determine whether training age, current training frequency, limb length, height, and relative strength are related to ACV at loads between 35 and 100% of the 1RM for the squat, bench press, deadlift, and overhead press. A secondary purpose was to compare the ACV values between the 4 lifts at each relative load. Fifty-one (18 women and 33 men) completed 2 testing sessions in which the squat, bench press, deadlift, and overhead press ACV were measured during a modified 1RM protocol. Average concentric velocity values were significantly different among the 4 lifts (p < 0.05) at all relative loads between 35 and 100% 1RM except for 55% 1RM (p = 0.112). Generally, compared at the same relative loads, the overhead press exhibited the greatest ACV followed by the squat, bench press, and deadlift (in order). In addition, relative strength level was inversely related to ACV at maximal loads (≥95% 1RM) for the squat, bench press, and deadlift while height was positively related to ACV at moderate loads (55% 1RM) for all lifts (p < 0.05). These results suggest that the load-velocity profile is unique for each of these exercises, and that velocity ranges used for exercise prescription should be specific to the exercise. A trainee's relative strength and height may be a primary influence on the ACV.

Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review

Background

The number of athletes engaged in climbing sports has risen. Specific physical and psychological skills are required. The objective of this review was to determine factors for high climbing performance. We evaluated physiological, biomechanical and psychological characteristics that simplify the ascent. We also assessed training and recovery strategies.

Methods

Medline (Pubmed), Cochrane Library and Google scholar up to September 2018.

Results

A low skinfold thickness, body fat and large forearm volume were anthropometric traits in successful climbers. Well-trained forearm flexors with high aerobic capacities lead to an efficient style. Hand grip strength and endurance, postural stability and optimized kinematic motions were favourable. Elite climbers had long finger and bent-arm hang times. Psychologically, an “iceberg profile” was typical. Constant training with fingerboard and dynamic eccentric-concentric training helped to push the “red-point grade”.

Conclusion

Hand, forearm strength and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. An efficient climbing style with perpetual focus and accuracy, high speed and low exhaustion due to adaption to repeated isometric exercise is helpful in the ascent, while low body fat and a large bone-to-tip pulp make it easier. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors, which should be followed by active recovery.

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Physiological parameters of high climbing performance are forearm flexor strength and a good strength-to-weight ratio.

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An efficient climbing style is based on perpetual focus, accuracy and a high postural stability.

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With constant training, especially isometric exercise, followed by active recovery, climbing red-point grade can be improved.

A Brief Review of Handgrip Strength and Sport Performance

Cronin, J, Lawton, T, Harris, N, Kilding, A, and McMaster, DT. A brief review of handgrip strength and sport performance. J Strength Cond Res 31(11): 3187-3217, 2017-Tests of handgrip strength (HGS) and handgrip force (HGF) are commonly used across a number of sporting populations. Measures of HGS and HGF have also been used by practitioners and researchers to evaluate links with sports performance. This article first evaluates the validity and reliability of various handgrip dynamometers (HGD) and HGF sensors, providing recommendations for procedures to ensure that precise and reliable data are collected as part of an athlete's testing battery. Second, the differences in HGS between elite and subelite athletes and the relationships between HGS, HGF, and sports performance are discussed.

Analysis of Tests Evaluating Sport Climbers' Strength and Isometric Endurance

The present study was designed to determine which types of specific tests provide an effective evaluation of strength and endurance in highly trained competitive sport climbers. The research process consisted of three basic components: the measurement of selected somatic characteristics of the climbers, the assessment of their physical conditioning, and a search for correlations between the anthropometric and “conditioning” variables on the one hand, and climber’s performance on the other. The sample of subjects consisted of 14 experienced volunteer climbers capable of handling 7a- 8a+/b on-sight rock climbing grades. The strongest correlations (Spearman’s rank) were found between climber’s competence and the relative results of the finger strength test (r = 0.7); much lower, but still statistically significant coefficients were found between the level of competence and the results of the muscle endurance tests (r = 0.53 – 0.57). Climbers aspiring to attain an elite level must have strong finger and forearm muscles, but most of all, they must be capable of releasing their potential during specific motor capability tests engaging these parts of the body. The forearm muscles of elite climbers must also be very resistant to fatigue. Since highly trained athletes vary only slightly in body mass, this variable does not have a major effect on their performance during strength and endurance tests.

Gender difference in handgrip strength of Italian children aged 9 to 10 years

Background

Handgrip strength is an index of nutritional status which correlates to morbidity and mortality in young. It differs in adults and adolescents between gender. However, it is no clear whether a difference exists also in children aged 9 to 10 years, and which are the factors influencing it. Furthermore, data of Handgrip strength of Italian schoolchildren are lacking. Aim of this study was to provide Handgrip strength value from a sample of healthy Italian schoolchildren aged 9 to 10 years and to determine which factors affect grip strength at this age.

Methods

We enrolled 137 children (boys n =66; girls n = 71) who underwent a body mass index and Handgrip strength measurement. Handgrip strength was assessed by an hydraulic hand dynamometer.

Results

The mean handgrip strength value was 13.8 ± 4.0 for girls and 15.2 ± 3.0 kg for boys (p = 0.04) thus, we found a significant difference between gender. We have not found a significant differences in anthropometric parameters between gender. In the univariate analysis Handgrip strength was associated with age, BMI, height, weight and gender (p < 0.001 for age, p < 0.001 for BMI, p < 0.001 for height, p < 0.001 for weight and p < 0.04 for gender). The Multivariate linear regression analysis showed that age, BMI and gender were all correlated to grip force.

Conclusion

We found a significant difference in grip strength between healthy Italian schoolchildren aged 9 to 10 years. This parameter seems to be primarily influenced by gender. Our investigation is important since currently data regarding the reference values of HGS for Italian children are lacking.

Comparative analysis of trunk muscle activities in climbing of during upright climbing at different inclination angles

[Purpose] This study was performed to provide evidence for the therapeutic exercise approach through a compative analysis of muscle activities according to climbing wall inclination. [Subjects and Methods] Twentyfour healthy adult subjects without climbing experience performed static exercises at a therapeutic climbing at with various inclination angles (0°, 10°, 20°), and the activities of the trunk muscles (rectus abdominis, obliquus externus abdominis, obliquus internus abdominis, erector spinae) were measured using surface electromyography (EMG) for 7 seconds. [Results] Significant differences were found between the inclination angles of 10° and 0°, as well as 20° in the rectus abdominis, obliquus internus abdominis, right obliquus externus abdominis, and right erector spinae. [Conclusion] Based on measurements of trunk muscle activity in a static climbing standing position at different angles, significant changes in muscle activity appear to be induced at 10 degrees. Therefore, the results appear to provide clinically relevant evidence.

Effects of a therapeutic climbing program on muscle activation and SF-36 scores of patients with lower back pain

[Purpose] This study examined the effects of lumbar stability exercises on chronic lower back pain by using a therapeutic climbing program on lumbar muscle activity and function. [Subjects and Methods] Thirty adult subjects with chronic back pain participated. The subjects were assigned to 2 exercise groups, namely the lumbar stabilization (Mat Ex) and therapeutic climbing exercise groups (TC Ex). Each group trained for 30 minutes, 3 times a week for 4 weeks. The Short-form 36-item Questionnaire (SF-36) was administered and the surface electromyographic (sEMG) activities of the lumbar muscles were measured. [Results] Both therapy groups showed significant increases in the SF-36 score, and the increase was greater in the TC Ex group. Significant increases in the sEMG activities of the lumbar muscles were found in both groups. The increases in the sEMG activities of the rectus abdominis and internal and external oblique muscles of the abdomen were greater in the TC Ex group than in the Mat Ex group. [Conclusion] These findings demonstrate that TC Ex, which is similar to normal lumbar stabilization exercise, is effective at activating and improving the function of the lumbar muscles. These results suggest that TC Ex has a positive impact on the stabilization of the lumbar region.

Reference values for toe grip strength among Japanese adults aged 20 to 79 years: a cross-sectional study

Background

No standardised method has been adopted for measuring toe-grip strength (TGS), and no reference values have been established for evaluating it. The present study investigated age-related changes in TGS and the association of TGS with various descriptive characteristics.

Methods

TGS was measured in both feet of 1842 community-dwelling individuals aged 20–79 years using a toe-grip dynamometer. The participants were classified by decade into six age groups: 20–29, 30–39, 40–49, 50–59, 60–69, and 70–79 years. Correlations for TGS between the dominant and non-dominant sides were analysed according to decade and sex using Pearson’s correlation coefficient. The mean TGS and TGS-to-weight ratio (TGS/Wt%) were compared between sexes by each decade and among all decades by sex using two-way analysis of variance with post-hoc tests. To assess relationships between mean TGS and various descriptive characteristics, we determined Pearson’s correlation coefficient by sex and performed a stepwise multiple-regression analysis. Significance was set at 5%.

Results

Correlations for TGS between the dominant and non-dominant sides were significant in all decades by sex, ranging from 0.73 for men in their 70s to 0.91 for women in their 50s. Mean TGS and TGS/Wt% significantly differed between the sexes in all decades and in all decades except the 40s, respectively. In men, the mean TGS and TGS/Wt% significantly decreased with aging after the 50s and 60s, respectively. In women, both the mean TGS and TGS/Wt% significantly decreased between the 40s and 50s and between the 60s and 70s. TGS significantly correlated with age, height, and weight in both sexes. The stepwise multiple-regression analysis revealed TGS was significantly associated with sex, age, height, and weight (adjusted R² = 0.31).

Conclusions

TGS was closely correlated between the dominant and non-dominant sides. TGS and TGS/Wt were significantly reduced with aging after the 50s in men and significantly reduced between the 40s and 50s and between the 60s and 70s in women. Age, sex, height, and weight accounted for only 30.8% of the variance in TGS. Therefore, other factors (e.g. toe flexibility, structural characteristics) should be considered for improving the accuracy of predicting TGS.

Relations between BMI, Body Mass and Height, and Sports Competence among Participants of the 2010 Winter Olympic Games: Does Sport Metabolic Demand Differentiate?

This study characterizes the athletes participating in the 2010 Winter Olympic Games in terms of body height, body mass and BMI. The studied sample consisted of athletes in the top 20 places of each of 14 sports disciplines (1460 cases). Data on the athletes' age, height, body mass, and sports specialization were obtained from the Olympic Games' official website and from the International Ski Federation. The sampled athletes were grouped according to the predominant type of energy metabolism during competition. The anaerobic-glycolytic disciplines, such as cross-country sprint, figure skating, short track, and speed skating (500,1000 and 1500 m), were found to have the youngest female athletes: 25.0 yr. ( SD = 4.7). In the endurance sports (aerobic and aerobic-anaerobic), the female athletes were the oldest, being respectively 28.6 yr. ( SD = 4.9) and 28.1 yr. ( SD = 4.5) old. In the speed disciplines (anaerobic-alactic), the female athletes were the tallest ( M = 172 cm; SD = 8.3). The male athletes in the anaerobic-alactic sports were the tallest ( M = 181.8 cm, SD = 6.7) and those in the anaerobic-glycolytic sports were the shortest ( M = 179.2 cm, SD = 6.7). The large differences in body mass among the groups of athletes, which appear to be related to the predominant type of metabolism during competition, show that this parameter is partly correlated with the level of sports competence, but only in disciplines where the athletes need larger muscle mass. The largest average values of BMI were found for males and females in the anaerobic-alactic group.

Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers

Climbing performance relies to a great extent on the performance of the finger flexor muscles. Only a few studies investigated this performance in top class climbers and only one study compared gender-specific differences. This study investigated the climbing-specific finger flexor strength and endurance and related muscular oxygenation in 12 elite female and male climbers and 12 non-climbers. After the assessment of maximum voluntary finger flexor contraction (MVC), two isometric finger flexor endurance tests were performed at 40% MVC until exhaustion. A continuous isometric test was followed by an intermittent isometric test (10 s contraction, 3 s rest). Changes in oxygenation of finger flexor muscles were recorded using near infrared spectroscopy. MVC and strength-to-weight ratio were greater in climbers than non-climbers (P = 0.003; P < 0.001) and greater in men than women (P < 0.001; P = 0.002). Time to task failure for the intermittent test and the force-time integrals for the continuous and the intermittent test were also significantly greater in climbers (P = 0.030; P = 0.027; P = 0.005). During the intermittent test, re-oxygenation of the working muscles was faster in climbers (P < 0.05) without gender-specific differences. Close correlations were demonstrated between the best on-sight climbing performance and strength-to-weight ratio (r (2) = 0.946, P < 0.001) only in female climbers. The superior intermittent finger flexor endurance of climbers over non-climbers may be explained by the faster re-oxygenation of the finger flexor muscles during the short rest phases.

Somatic profile of competitive sport climbers

Since rock climbing grows in popularity, the number of the respective scientific reports increases. However, those concerning anthropometric profile of elite climbers are scarce and inconsistent, thus the aim of the study was to describe the anthropometric characteristics of competitive sport climbers. Male rock climbers (n = 21) aged 17 – 29 years took part in the study; their climbing ability ranged from 6b to 8c in the French scale. Body height, body mass, arm span, length and girths of both extremities, shoulder and pelvis widths, as well as thickness of 5 skinfolds were determined. From these, body mass index (BMI), body fat content and selected anthropometric indices were calculated. Data collected for climbers were compared with those of untrained students (n = 165) of Warsaw Technical University. Although no between-group differences were found for body height, body mass, BMI or body fat content, the climbers exhibited significantly (p<0.001) lower pelvis-to-shoulder ratio, longer lower extremities (p<0.05), and greater arm length and arm span (p<0.001) compared to untrained students. The results of this study do not support the view that climbers are small in stature and of low body mass. It seems that the core of the issue is not in body size but rather in specific body proportions and this may be of great importance in selecting subjects to competitive sport climbing.

The effect of hand dimensions, hand shape and some anthropometric characteristics on handgrip strength in male grip athletes and non-athletes

It has been suggested that athletes with longer fingers and larger hand surfaces enjoy stronger grip power. Therefore, some researchers have examined a number of factors and anthropometric variables that explain this issue. To our knowledge, the data is scarce. Thus, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of hand dimensions, hand shape and some anthropometric characteristics on handgrip strength in male grip athletes and non-athletes. 80 subjects aged between 19 and 29 participated in this study in two groups including: national and collegian grip athletes (n=40), and non-athletes (n=40). Body height and mass were measured to calculate body mass index. The shape of the dominant hand was drawn on a piece of paper with a thin marker so that finger spans, finger lengths, and perimeters of the hand could be measured. The hand shape was estimated as the ratio of the hand width to hand length. Handgrip strength was measured in the dominant and non-dominant hand using a standard dynamometer. Descriptive statistics were used for each variable and independent t test was used to analyze the differences between the two groups. The Pearson correlation coefficient test was used to evaluate the correlation between studied variables. Also, to predict important variables in handgrip strength, the linear trend was assessed using a linear regression analysis. There was a significant difference between the two groups in absolute handgrip strength (p<0.001) and handgrip/height ratio (p<0.001). The indices of body height, body mass, lean body mass and body fat content (p<0.001) were significantly greater in grip athletes. All hand variables except FS1-4 (p>0.05) were significantly different between the groups (p<0.001). After controlling body mass all hand anthropometric characteristics except thumb length (r=0.240, p= 0.135), hand shape (r=-0.029, p=0.858), middle finger length (r=0.305, p=0.056) and forearm circumference (r=0.162, p=0.319) significantly correlated with handgrip strength in grip athletes, but not in non-athletes, except for forearm circumference (r=0.406, p=0.010). The results showed that handgrip strength and some of the hand dimensions may be different in athletes who have handgrip movements with an object or opponent in comparison to non-athletes. Also, there was a significant positive correlation between handgrip strength and most of the hand dimensions in grip athletes. Therefore, these can be used in talent identification in handgrip-related sports and in clinical settings as well.