Skin hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: A review of clinical evidences

Development and evaluation of berberine-loaded bigel for the treatment of hyperpigmentation on B16F10 melanoma cell line

Aim: The aim of this study was to optimize, develop, characterize and evaluate a topical nanobigel (BG) formulation containing Berberine (BRB) that exhibits anti-melanogenic properties. Materials & methods: The Berberine-loaded bigel (BRB@BG) formulation was prepared by homogenously mixing the optimized hydrogel and oleogel. BRB@BG was characterized in vitro and cytotoxicity study was conducted to evaluate its effects on murine skin melanoma B16F10 cell lines. Results: The optimized BRB@BG exhibited uniform texture with nanometric size, desirable spreadability and extrudability, suitable for topical applications. Cytotoxicity studies revealed that BRB@BG had a lower IC50 value (4.84 μg/ml) on B16F10 cell lines compared with drug alone. Conclusion: In conclusion, the developed BRB@BG formulation showed good potential as safe and effective topical treatment for hyperpigmentation.

Semaxanib, a VEGF inhibitor, suppresses melanogenesis by modulating CRTC3 independently of VEGF signaling

BACKGROUND

Dysregulation of melanogenesis contributes to the development of skin hyperpigmentation diseases, which poses a treatment challenge. Following the establishment of CRTC3 screening methods to explore small molecules inhibiting melanogenesis for the topical treatment of hyperpigmentation diseases, we identified a candidate molecule, semaxanib.

OBJECTIVE

To explore the antimelanogenic effects of semaxanib, a vascular endothelial growth factor receptor (VEGFR) 2 inhibitor, for potential applications in hyperpigmentation management and to unravel the role of VEGF signaling in melanocyte biology by investigating mechanism of action of semaxanib.

METHODS

Mouse-derived spontaneously immortalized melanocytes, B16F10, and normal human primary epidermal melanocytes cells were treated with semaxanib, and cellular responses were assessed using cell viability assays and melanin content measurements. Molecular mechanisms were investigated using transcriptional activity assays, reverse-transcription polymerase chain reaction, and immunoblotting analysis. In vivo studies were conducted using an epidermis-humanized transgenic mouse model and ex vivo human skin tissues.

RESULTS

Semaxanib ameliorated melanin content in cultured melanocytes by downregulating the expression of melanogenesis-associated genes by suppressing the CRTC3/microphthalmia-associated transcription factors. Topical application of semaxanib reduced melanin accumulation in the ultraviolet B-stimulated ex vivo human epidermis and tail of K14-stem cell factor transgenic mice. Mechanistically, the antimelanogenic effect induced by semaxanib was associated with SIK2-CRTC3-MITF rather than VEGF signaling in melanocytes.

CONCLUSION

Semaxanib emerges as a promising candidate for the development of therapeutics for hyperpigmentation, potentially working independently of VEGF signaling in human melanocytes.

The effect of emulgel preparation on the stability of Kojic acid in the topical anti-hyperpigmentation products

BACKGROUND

The emulgel, a novel drug delivery system, merges emulsion and gel, offering advantages like enhanced stability, precise control over drug release kinetics, and increased drug absorption compared to emulsions alone. Kojic acid (KA) demonstrates potent inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, a crucial player in the melanin synthesis pathway.

AIMS

The main objective of this experimental study is to formulate KA within an emulgel framework and assess its stability under various environmental conditions.

METHODS

One percent of KA emulgel and 1% simple gel, serving as the control product, were supplemented with varying concentrations of sodium metabisulfite (SMBS) for its antioxidant properties. The formulations were segregated into four groups and subjected to diverse maintenance and stress conditions over a three-month period. Monthly evaluations of physicochemical alterations were conducted, initially employing digital photography, followed by the extraction of KA and subsequent quantification of its concentration through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

RESULTS

The best formulations for retaining KA among the prepared ones were the 0.25% SMBS KA emulgel and the 0.1% SMBS KA simple gel, capable of retaining 86% and 76% of the initial KA content under stress conditions, respectively (p < 0.0001).

CONCLUSIONS

Regarding to this study, ideal storage condition for KA emulgel and simple gel is in the refrigerator temperatures. Moreover, optimal SMBS concentrations for stability enhancement are 0.25% for emulgel and 0.1% for the simple gel. A significant statistical difference was observed between refrigerated emulgel and simple gel in the retention of KA in the presence of optimum concentration of antioxidants (p < 0.0001).

Fenchone and camphor: Main natural compounds from Lavandula stoechas L., expediting multiple in vitro biological activities

Lavandula stoechas, a Mediterranean plant, renowned in traditional medicine for its health benefits, is also arousing strong interest associated with its essential oils (EOs) with promising therapeutic properties. The aim of this study was to analyze the chemical composition of the plant, as well as to study its major activities, including antioxidant, anti-diabetic, dermatoprotective, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial effects, focusing on its major molecules. Using the GC-MS method, the main compounds identified in L. stoechas EO (LSEO) were fenchone (31.81 %) and camphor (29.60 %), followed by terpineol (13.14 %) and menthone (8.96 %). To assess their antioxidant activity, three in vitro methods were used (DPPH, FRAP, and ABTS). The results revealed that LSEO exhibited the best antiradical property (54 ± 62 μg/mL) according to the DPPH test, while fenchone demonstrated the highest antioxidant capacity (87 ± 92 μg/mL) in the FRAP test, and camphor displayed the highest antioxidant capacity (96 ± 32 μg/mL) in the ABTS test. However, these results were lower than those obtained by Trolox used as a reference. In addition, study also explored the anti-diabetic potential of LSEO and its major compounds by evaluating their inhibitory activity towards two digestive enzymes, α-glucosidase and α-amylase. Camphor (76.92 ± 2.43 μg/mL) and fenchone (69.03 ± 2.31 μg/mL) exhibited the best inhibitory activities for α-amylase and α-glucosidase assays, respectively. Interestingly, all elements of the study exerted activities superior to those of acarbose, regardless of the test performed. In contrast, the evaluation of the dermatoprotective potential was carried out in vitro by targeting two enzymes involved in cutaneous processes, tyrosinase and elastase. In this light, fenchone (53.14 ± 3.06 μg/mL) and camphor (48.39 ± 1.92 μg/mL) were the most active against tyrosinase and elastase, respectively. It should be noted that the effect of both molecules, as well as that of LSEO, ranged between 53.14 ± 3.06 and 97.45 ± 5.22 μg/mL, which was significantly lower than the standard, quercetin (IC50 of 246.90 ± 2 0.54 μg/mL) against tyrosinase. Furthermore, the anti-inflammatory potential of these elements has been studied by evaluating their ability to inhibit lipooxygenase (LOX), a class of enzymes involved in the inflammatory process in the human body. As a result, the LSEO demonstrated a remarkable effect with an IC50 of 6.34 ± 1.29 μg/mL, which was almost comparable to the standard, quercetin (IC50 = 3.93 ± 0.45 μg/mL). Concerning the antibacterial potential, we carried out a quantitative analysis of the various products tested, revealing a bactericidal activity of the LSEO against the strain L. monocytogenes ATCC 13932 at a minimum effective concentration (MIC = CMB = 0.25). Overall, LSEOs offer significant potential as a source of natural antioxidants, and antidiabetic and anti-inflammatory agents, as well as dermatoprotective and antibacterial compounds. Its major molecules, fenchone and camphor, showed promising activity in these areas of study, making it a valuable candidate for future research and development in the field of natural medicine.

Systematic Study of Resveratrol Nanoliposomes Transdermal Delivery System for Enhancing Anti-Aging and Skin-Brightening Efficacy

Due to the stratum corneum barrier, resveratrol is difficult to be absorbed transdermally, limiting its anti-aging and skin-brightening effects. Furthermore, there is a lack of systematic studies on the efficacy of resveratrol in human skin, especially in three-dimensional skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we encapsulated resveratrol into nanoliposomes using the high-pressure homogenization method to develop an efficient transdermal drug delivery system, and systematically evaluated its anti-aging and skin-brightening efficacy via cell line models, a three-dimensional skin model and human skin. The resveratrol nanoliposomes effectively improved the transdermal penetration and retention of resveratrol and enhanced cellular uptake. In addition, compared to free resveratrol, resveratrol nanoliposomes remarkably enhanced the skin-care effects by promoting the antioxidant capacity and collagen synthesis, inhibiting the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosine activity and melanin synthesis. Notably, human clinical trials proved the anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening effectiveness of resveratrol nanoliposomes. Three levels of systematic studies indicated that resveratrol nanoliposomes could be a promising transdermal drug delivery system to enhance the anti-aging and skin-brightening effects of resveratrol.

Synergistic Effect of DIBOA and Verbascoside from Acanthus mollis Leaf on Tyrosinase Inhibition

Overexpression of melanin contributes to darkening of plant and fruit tissues and skin hyperpigmentation, leading to melasma or age spots. Although melanin biosynthesis is complex and involves several steps, a single enzyme known as tyrosinase is key to regulating this process. The melanogenesis pathway is initiated by oxidation of the starting material l-tyrosine (or l-DOPA) to dopaquinone by tyrosinase; the resulting quinone then serves as a substrate for subsequent steps that eventually lead to production of melanin. Medicinal plants are considered a good source of tyrosinase inhibitors. This study investigated the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. mollis leaf extracts and their phytochemicals. Significant activity was verified in the ethanol extract -EEt (IC50 = 1.21 µg/mL). Additionally, a kinetic study showed that this tyrosinase inhibition occurs by DIBOA (2,4-dihydroxy-1,4-benzoxazin-3-one) and verbascoside contribution through a non-competitive reaction mechanism. A synergistic effect on tyrosinase inhibition was observed in the binary combination of the compounds. In conclusion, both EEt and a mixture of two of its phytochemicals can be effective tyrosinase inhibitors and can be used as a bleaching agent for cosmetic formulations in the future.

A New Xanthone Glycoside from Mangifera indica L.: Physicochemical Properties and In Vitro Anti-Skin Aging Activities

A new xanthone glycoside, 1,3,5,6-tetrahydroxyxanthone-C-4-β-d-glucopyranoside was isolated from the methanol extract of Mangifera indica leaves (Anacardiaceae) growing in Egypt. The structure was clarified by 1D and 2D-NMR spectroscopic data. The physicochemical properties of the compound such as lipophilicity, solubility, and formulation considerations were predicted via in silico ADMET technique using the SwissADME server. This technique provided Lipinski’s rule of five, such as GIT absorption, distribution, metabolism, and skin permeation. The in vitro inhibitory activities against aging-mediated enzymes such as collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were assessed. The compound exhibited remarkable anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, and anti-tyrosinase effects with IC₅₀ values of 1.06, 419.10, 1.65, and 0.48 µg/mL, respectively, compared to the positive control. The compound showed promising predicted aqueous solubility and reasonable skin penetration suggesting the suitability of the compound for topical formulation as an anti-aging agent for cosmetic preparations.

Efficacy and Safety of Oral Herbal Drugs Used as Adjunctive Therapy for Melasma: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomised Controlled Trials

Background

Melasma is an acquired disorder of facial pigmentation. Its etiology is multifactorial; thus, the management is usually challenging. As a complementary therapy, herbal drugs are often used in the management of melasma. This work was aimed to investigate the efficacy and safety of herbal drugs on melasma in female patients.

Methods

This study followed Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines. A comprehensive search was conducted, and all randomised controlled trials (RCTs) on the use of oral herbal drugs as complementary therapy for melasma in female patients were included. A meta-analysis was conducted according to the guidelines of the Cochrane Collaboration using Review Manager 5.4.

Results

Ten eligible trials, with 1015 female melasma patients, were included. All of the included RCTs had some concerns for risk of bias for different reasons, especially for that most of included trials were unblinded. Pooled data suggested phytotherapy plus routine therapy had significantly better efficacy on melasma than routine therapy, in terms of response rate (OR: 4.49, 95% CI: 3.25 to 6.20, p < 0.00001), reduction of skin lesion score (SMD: −0.56, 95% CI: −0.79 to −0.33, p < 0.00001), and improvement of serum E2 levels (SMD: −1.58, 95% CI: −2.62 to −0.55, p 0.003). In addition, there was no significant difference in the incidence of AEs between phytotherapy plus routine therapy and routine therapy (OR: 0.92, 95% CI: 0.53 to 1.58; p 0.76). Overall, herbal drugs used as an adjunct to routine therapy significantly enhanced the efficacy for the treatment of melasma but with a comparable safety profile.

Conclusion

These findings have implications for recommending herbal drugs as a viable complementary treatment option for melasma.

Biological insights and NMR metabolic profiling of different extracts of Spermacoce verticillata (L.) G. Mey

Spermacoce verticillata (L.) G. Mey. is commonly used in the folk medicine by various cultures to manage common diseases. Herein, the chemical and biological profiles of S. verticillata were studied in order to provide a comprehensive characterization of bioactive compounds and also to highlight the therapeutic properties. The in vitro antioxidant activity using free-radical scavenging, phosphomolybdenum, ferrous-ion chelating and reducing power assays, and the inhibitory activity against key enzymes such as acetylcholinesterase (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterase (BChE), tyrosinase, α-amylase and α-glucosidase of S. verticillata extracts (dichloromethane, ethyl acetate, methanol and water) were investigated. The highest total phenolic and flavonoid content were observed in the methanolic and aqueous extracts. Exhaustive 2DNMR investigation has revealed the presence of rutin, ursolic and oleanoic acids. The methanolic extract, followed by aqueous extract have showed remarkable free radical quenching and reducing ability, while the dichloromethane extract was the best source of metal chelators. The tested extracts showed notable inhibitory activity against cholinesterases (AChE: 1.63 - 4.99 mg GALAE/g extract and BChE: 12.40 - 15.48 mg GALAE/g extract) and tyrosinase (60.85 - 159.64 mg KAE/g extract). No inhibitory activity was displayed by ethyl acetate and aqueous extracts against BChE and tyrosinase, respectively. All the tested extracts showed modest α-amylase inhibitory activity, while only the ethyl acetate and aqueous extracts were potent against α-glycosidase. This study further validates the use of S. verticillata in the traditional medicine, while advocating for further investigation for phytomedicine development.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R. platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1–R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.

Low Molecular Weight Oligosaccharide from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer against UV-Mediated Apoptosis and Inhibits Tyrosinase Activity In Vitro and In Vivo

To find new anti-UV and whitening agents, 21 fractions isolated from three preparations of ginseng (white, red, and black ginseng) were screened, and their antioxidant effects on AAPH- or H₂O₂-induced damage were investigated. Furthermore, the protective effect against UV-mediated apoptosis and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the targeted fractions were evaluated in vitro and in a zebrafish model. Among all fractions, F10 from white ginseng was selected as having the strongest anti-UV and antimelanogenesis activities. This fraction exhibited excellent inhibitory effects on the pigmentation of zebrafish, which may be due to its potential tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Additionally, the chemical composition of F10 was evaluated by UPLC-MS and NMR instruments. The results indicated that F10 had a carbohydrate content of more than 76%, and the weight-average molecular weight was approximately 239 Da. Disaccharide sucrose was the main active compound in F10. These results suggest that F10 could be used as an ingredient for whitening cosmetics and regarded as an anti-UV filter in the future.

A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of α-arbutin

Cosmetic dermatology preparations such as bleaching agents are ingredients with skin-related biological activities for increasing and improving skin beauty. The possibility of controlling skin hyperpigmentation disorders is one of the most important research goals in cosmetic preparations. Recently, cosmetics containing herbal and botanical ingredients have attracted many interests for consumers of cosmetic products because these preparations are found safer than other preparations with synthetic components. However, high-quality trial studies in larger samples are needed to confirm safety and clinical efficacy of phytotherapeutic agents with high therapeutic index. Arbutin (p-hydroxyphenyl-β-d-glucopyranoside) is a bioactive hydrophilic polyphenol with two isomers including alpha-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-α-glucopyranoside) and β-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-β-glucopyranoside). It is used as a medicinal plant in phytopharmacy. Studies have shown that alpha-arbutin is 10 times more effective than natural arbutin. A comparison of IC50 values showed that α-arbutin (with concentration 2.0 mM) has a more potent inhibitory activity on human tyrosinase against natural arbutin (with higher concentration than 30 mM). A review of recent studies showed that arbutin could be beneficial in treatment of various diseases such as hyperpigmentation disorders, types of cancers, central nervous system disorders, osteoporosis, diabetes, etc. This study was designed to describe the therapeutic efficiencies of arbutin.

Efficacy of topical antioxidants in the skin hyperpigmentation control: A clinical study by reflectance confocal microscopy

BACKGROUND

Some in vitro studies have reported the potential of antioxidants for the reduction of melanogenesis. However, it is important to assess the clinical efficacy of these substances in reducing skin hyperpigmentation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations based on antioxidants using Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM).

METHODS

Thirty-two healthy females aged 39-55 years were enrolled and divided into four groups: Vehicle (V), V with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), V with Spirulina sp., and V with hydroxytyrosol-titrated olive extract. Imaging analyses by high-resolution methods and RCM were performed in the malar region of the face before and after a 42-day period of application of the studied formulations.

RESULTS

Reflectance confocal microscopy imaging analyses showed a significant reduction of number of hyperreflective pixels and basal layer brightness after 42 days of application of formulations containing the antioxidants compared to vehicle and baseline values, suggesting an improvement of the skin pigmentation pattern.

CONCLUSION

Reflectance confocal microscopy permitted the identification of skin hyperpigmentation and the assessment of the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations based on antioxidants in a noninvasive way. All formulations containing antioxidants significantly reduced skin hyperpigmentation after the period of application.

UP256 Inhibits Hyperpigmentation by Tyrosinase Expression/Dendrite Formation via Rho-Dependent Signaling and by Primary Cilium Formation in Melanocytes

Skin hyperpigmentation is generally characterized by increased synthesis and deposition of melanin in the skin. UP256, containing bakuchiol, is a well-known medication for acne vulgaris. Acne sometimes leaves dark spots on the skin, and we hypothesized that UP256 may be effective against hyperpigmentation-associated diseases. UP256 was treated for anti-melanogenesis and melanocyte dendrite formation in cultured normal human epidermal melanocytes as well as in the reconstituted skin and zebrafish models. Western blot analysis and glutathione S-transferase (GST)-pull down assays were used to evaluate the expression and interaction of enzymes related in melanin synthesis and transportation. The cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content assay revealed that UP256 decreased melanin synthesis by regulating the expression of proteins related on melanogenesis including tyrosinase, TRP-1 and -2, and SOX9. UP256 also decreased dendrite formation in melanocytes via regulating the Rac/Cdc42/α-PAK signaling proteins, without cytotoxic effects. UP256 also inhibited ciliogenesis-dependent melanogenesis in normal human epidermal melanocytes. Furthermore, UP256 suppressed melanin contents in the zebrafish and the 3D human skin tissue model. All things taken together, UP256 inhibits melanin synthesis, dendrite formation, and primary cilium formation leading to the inhibition of melanogenesis.

Rose Petal Extract (Rosa gallica) Exerts Skin Whitening and Anti-Skin Wrinkle Effects

We sought to investigate the effect of extracts from Rosa gallica petals (RPE) on skin whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. Tyrosinase activity was attenuated by RPE treatment, concomitant with the reduction of melanin accumulation in human B16F10 melanoma. Treatment of the facial skin of volunteers in a clinical trial with an RPE-containing formulation enhanced skin brightness (L* value) significantly. The underlying mechanism responsible was determined to be associated with mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) activation. In addition, RPE exhibited anti-wrinkle formation activity of human dermal fibroblasts by suppressing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 level. In vivo study, RPE also inhibited solar ultraviolet-stimulated MMP-1 level by c-Jun regulation. Overall, our findings indicate that RPE evokes skin whitening and anti-wrinkle formation activity by regulating intracellular signaling, supporting its utility as an ingredient for skin whitening and anti-wrinkle cosmetic products.

An Improved Nanoemulsion Formulation Containing Kojic Monooleate: Optimization, Characterization and In Vitro Studies

Tyrosinase inhibitors have become increasingly important targets for hyperpigmentation disease treatment. Kojic monooleate (KMO), synthesized from the esterification of kojic acid and oleic acid, has shown a better depigmenting effect than kojic acid. In this study, the process parameters include the speed of high shear, the time of high shear and the speed of the stirrer in the production of nanoemulsion containing KMO was optimized using Response Surface Methodology (RSM), as well as evaluated in terms of its physicochemical properties, safety and efficacy. The optimized condition for the formulation of KMO nanoemulsion was 8.04 min (time of high shear), 4905.42 rpm (speed of high shear), and 271.77 rpm (speed of stirrer), which resulted in a droplet size of 103.97 nm. An analysis of variance (ANOVA) showed that the fitness of the quadratic polynomial fit the experimental data with large F-values (148.79) and small p-values (p < 0.0001) and an insignificant lack of fit. The optimized nanoemulsion containing KMO with a pH value of 5.75, showed a high conductivity value (3.98 mS/cm), which indicated that the nanoemulsion containing KMO was identified as an oil-in-water type of nanoemulsion. The nanoemulsion remains stable (no phase separation) under a centrifugation test and displays accelerated stability during storage at 4, 25 and 45 °C over 90 days. The cytotoxicity assay showed that the optimized nanoemulsion was less toxic, with a 50% inhibition of cell viability (IC₅₀) > 500 μg/mL, and that it can inhibit 67.12% of tyrosinase activity. This study reveals that KMO is a promising candidate for the development of a safe cosmetic agent to prevent hyperpigmentation.

Fabrication of Carboxylmethyl Chitosan Nanocarrier via Self-Assembly for Efficient Delivery of Phenylethyl Resorcinol in B16 Cells

Micro-molecular drugs have special advantages to cope with challenging diseases, however their structure, physical and chemical properties, stability, and pharmacodynamics have more requirements for the way they are delivered into the body. Carrier-based drug delivery systems can circumvent many limited factors of drug delivery and increase their bioavailability. In this context, stable drug nanocarriers of alkaline amino acids (arginine, Arg) modified conjugated linoleic acid-carboxymethyl chitosan (CLA-CMCS) conjugate were developed, which could generate supramolecular micelles to effectively encapsulate the tyrosinase inhibitor phenylethyl resorcinol (PR). The resulting CCA-NPs were spherical nanoparticles with a mean size around 175 nm. The 3-(4,5-dimethyl-2-thiazolyl)-2,5-diphenyl-2-H-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay and cellular uptake investigation demonstrated that the CCA-NPs were non-cytotoxic and had excellent cell transport ability. In addition, these CCA-NPs were able to effectively deliver PR and inhibited melanin formation to reduce pigmentation by enhancing cellular uptake. In conclusion, our research indicated that nanocarriers based on self-assembly amphiphilic polymers constituted a promising and effective drug delivery system in hyperpigmentation targeting.

Structural and molecular modelling studies of antimelanogenic piper-amide TRPM1 antagonists

Piper-amides exhibit diverse biological activities, including antimelanogenic effects. In our previous studies, we identified a potent piper-amide derivative that inhibited melanogenesis via the TRPM1 calcium channel. Despite its potential as a therapeutic target, the three-dimensional structure of TRPM1 is still not available. Thus, structure-guided compound design and the discovery of novel inhibitors of melanogenesis have been limited. In the present study, a series of computational methods, including homology modelling, docking, molecular dynamics simulation and field-based pharmacophore modelling, were integrated to explore the structural features of natural piper-amide-like compounds related to the TRPM1 target. These studies suggested the binding mode and provided a 3D pharmacophore model of the ligands, which can be helpful in understanding the TRPM1-ligand interactions at the molecular level and in designing potent antagonists of TRPM1.

Anti-melanogenic and anti-oxidant activities of ethanol extract of Kummerowia striata: Kummerowia striata regulate anti-melanogenic activity through down-regulation of TRP-1, TRP-2 and MITF expression

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Ethanol extract of Kummerowia striata is a potent antioxidant.

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It inhibits melanin synthesis by downregulating tyrosinase and related proteins.

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It may be used in cosmetics for skin whitening and reducing wrinkles.

Kummerowia striata (K. striata) is used as a traditional medicine for inflammation-related therapy. To determine whether it has beneficial anti-melanogenic and anti-oxidant activities, we investigated the biological activities of the ethanol extract of Kummerowia striata (EKS) using a variety of in vitro and cell culture model systems. The anti-melanogenic activity was assessed in B16F10 melanoma cells in terms of melanin synthesis and in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The anti-oxidant assays were performed using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2ʹ-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS). EKS showed strong anti-oxidant activities in DPPH and ABTS assays. The mRNA transcription levels and protein expression levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, tyrosinase-related protein 2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor decreased in a dose-dependent manner with EKS treatment. Additionally, EKS did not affect cell viability at different concentrations used in this study, indicating that the mechanism of action of EKS-mediated inhibition of melanin synthesis does not involve cytotoxicity. Also, we confirmed that p-coumaric acid and quercetin are important compounds for anti-melanogenesis and antioxidant properties of EKS. Collectively, our findings demonstrate for the first time that EKS possesses anti-melanogenic and anti-oxidant activities. Further evaluation and development of EKS as a functional supplement or cosmetic may be useful for skin whitening and reducing wrinkles.

Understanding the role of extracts from sea buckthorn seed residues in anti-melanogenesis properties on B16F10 melanoma cells

The hydroalcoholic extract of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) seed residues (HYD-SBSR) is a potential skin whitening agent. To test this material as a potential skin whitening agent, we identified and quantified the main chemical constituents of HYD-SBSR by using ultra-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadruple time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-QTOF-MS/MS) and ultra-high performance liquid chromatography coupled with triple quadruple mass spectrometry (UPLC-QQQ-MS). The anti-melanogenesis properties of HYD-SBSR on B16F10 mouse melanoma cells were analysed and the mechanism was measured on both the transcriptional and translational levels. About 24 compounds were identified. Kaempferol and its derivatives were the main compounds with a concentration of about (2796.22 ± 31.55) μg per g DW. The following order among the detected compounds was observed: quercetin and its derivatives > isorhamnetin and its derivatives > procyanidins. HYD-SBSR has a strong antioxidant activity but with a slight cytotoxic effect on B16F10 when treated with 45.45 μg mL-1 and 4.55 μg mL-1 respectively, for 48 h. HYD-SBSR has been found to significantly decrease melanin content (P < 0.01) in 24 h, 48 h, and 72 h. Additionally, strong inhibitory extracellular tyrosinase activities and decreasing intracellular tyrosinase activities were also observed (P < 0.01). HYD-SBSR shows inhibitory effects on the expression of tyrosinase (TYR) and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and the secretion of TYR and TRP-1 proteins in cell lines. The protein levels of tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) showed no significant difference. HYD-SBSR may inhibit melanin synthesis by decreasing the tyrosinase activity and down-regulating the expression of TYR and TRP-1 which were probably induced by other transcriptional factors rather than MITF.