Caffeine at High Altitude: Java at Base Camp

Altitude illnesses

Millions of people visit high-altitude regions annually and more than 80 million live permanently above 2,500 m. Acute high-altitude exposure can trigger high-altitude illnesses (HAIs), including acute mountain sickness (AMS), high-altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) and high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE). Chronic mountain sickness (CMS) can affect high-altitude resident populations worldwide. The prevalence of acute HAIs varies according to acclimatization status, rate of ascent and individual susceptibility. AMS, characterized by headache, nausea, dizziness and fatigue, is usually benign and self-limiting, and has been linked to hypoxia-induced cerebral blood volume increases, inflammation and related trigeminovascular system activation. Disruption of the blood-brain barrier leads to HACE, characterized by altered mental status and ataxia, and increased pulmonary capillary pressure, and related stress failure induces HAPE, characterized by dyspnoea, cough and exercise intolerance. Both conditions are progressive and life-threatening, requiring immediate medical intervention. Treatment includes supplemental oxygen and descent with appropriate pharmacological therapy. Preventive measures include slow ascent, pre-acclimatization and, in some instances, medications. CMS is characterized by excessive erythrocytosis and related clinical symptoms. In severe CMS, temporary or permanent relocation to low altitude is recommended. Future research should focus on more objective diagnostic tools to enable prompt treatment, improved identification of individual susceptibilities and effective acclimatization and prevention options.

Caffeine has a dual influence on NMDA receptor-mediated glutamatergic transmission at the hippocampus

Caffeine, a stimulant largely consumed around the world, is a non-selective adenosine receptor antagonist, and therefore caffeine actions at synapses usually, but not always, mirror those of adenosine. Importantly, different adenosine receptors with opposing regulatory actions co-exist at synapses. Through both inhibitory and excitatory high-affinity receptors (A₁R and A₂R, respectively), adenosine affects NMDA receptor (NMDAR) function at the hippocampus, but surprisingly, there is a lack of knowledge on the effects of caffeine upon this ionotropic glutamatergic receptor deeply involved in both positive (plasticity) and negative (excitotoxicity) synaptic actions. We thus aimed to elucidate the effects of caffeine upon NMDAR-mediated excitatory post-synaptic currents (NMDAR-EPSCs), and its implications upon neuronal Ca²⁺ homeostasis. We found that caffeine (30-200 μM) facilitates NMDAR-EPSCs on pyramidal CA1 neurons from Balbc/ByJ male mice, an action mimicked, as well as occluded, by 1,3-dipropyl-cyclopentylxantine (DPCPX, 50 nM), thus likely mediated by blockade of inhibitory A₁Rs. This action of caffeine cannot be attributed to a pre-synaptic facilitation of transmission because caffeine even increased paired-pulse facilitation of NMDA-EPSCs, indicative of an inhibition of neurotransmitter release. Adenosine A_2ARs are involved in this likely pre-synaptic action since the effect of caffeine was mimicked by the A_2AR antagonist, SCH58261 (50 nM). Furthermore, caffeine increased the frequency of Ca²⁺ transients in neuronal cell culture, an action mimicked by the A₁R antagonist, DPCPX, and prevented by NMDAR blockade with AP5 (50 μM). Altogether, these results show for the first time an influence of caffeine on NMDA receptor activity at the hippocampus, with impact in neuronal Ca²⁺ homeostasis.

Travel medicine, coca and cocaine: demystifying and rehabilitating Erythroxylum - a comprehensive review

Few travel health measures are as controversial as the use of coca leaves at high altitude; yet, there appears widespread ignorance among health professionals and the general public about coca, its origins as well as its interesting and often flamboyant history. Equally, the cultural and traditional significance to Andean people is not recognised. The coca leaves contain many alkaloids, one of which, cocaine, has gained notoriety as a narcotic, leading to the mistaken idea that coca equals cocaine. This article contrasts coca with cocaine in an attempt to explain the differences but also the reasons for this widespread misconception. By its very nature, there may never be scientific ‘proof’ that coca leaves do or do not work for travellers at altitude, but at least a solid knowledge of coca, and how it differs from cocaine, provides a platform for informed opinions and appropriate critical views on the current confusing and contradictory legal situation.

Acute high-altitude sickness

At any point 1–5 days following ascent to altitudes ≥2500 m, individuals are at risk of developing one of three forms of acute altitude illness: acute mountain sickness, a syndrome of nonspecific symptoms including headache, lassitude, dizziness and nausea; high-altitude cerebral oedema, a potentially fatal illness characterised by ataxia, decreased consciousness and characteristic changes on magnetic resonance imaging; and high-altitude pulmonary oedema, a noncardiogenic form of pulmonary oedema resulting from excessive hypoxic pulmonary vasoconstriction which can be fatal if not recognised and treated promptly. This review provides detailed information about each of these important clinical entities. After reviewing the clinical features, epidemiology and current understanding of the pathophysiology of each disorder, we describe the current pharmacological and nonpharmacological approaches to the prevention and treatment of these diseases.

Lack of acclimatisation is the main risk factor for acute altitude illness; descent is the optimal treatmenthttp://ow.ly/45d2305JyZ0

AltitudeOmics: Red Blood Cell Metabolic Adaptation to High Altitude Hypoxia

Red blood cells (RBCs) are key players in systemic oxygen transport. RBCs respond to in vitro hypoxia through the so-called oxygen-dependent metabolic regulation, which involves the competitive binding of deoxyhemoglobin and glycolytic enzymes to the N-terminal cytosolic domain of band 3. This mechanism promotes the accumulation of 2,3-DPG, stabilizing the deoxygenated state of hemoglobin, and cytosol acidification, triggering oxygen off-loading through the Bohr effect. Despite in vitro studies, in vivo adaptations to hypoxia have not yet been completely elucidated. Within the framework of the AltitudeOmics study, erythrocytes were collected from 21 healthy volunteers at sea level, after exposure to high altitude (5260 m) for 1, 7, and 16 days, and following reascent after 7 days at 1525 m. UHPLC-MS metabolomics results were correlated to physiological and athletic performance parameters. Immediate metabolic adaptations were noted as early as a few hours from ascending to >5000 m, and maintained for 16 days at high altitude. Consistent with the mechanisms elucidated in vitro, hypoxia promoted glycolysis and deregulated the pentose phosphate pathway, as well purine catabolism, glutathione homeostasis, arginine/nitric oxide, and sulfur/H₂S metabolism. Metabolic adaptations were preserved 1 week after descent, consistently with improved physical performances in comparison to the first ascendance, suggesting a mechanism of metabolic memory.

Drug Use and Misuse in the Mountains: A UIAA MedCom Consensus Guide for Medical Professionals

Donegani, Enrico, Peter Paal, Thomas Küpper, Urs Hefti, Buddha Basnyat, Anna Carceller, Pierre Bouzat, Rianne van der Spek, and David Hillebrandt. Drug use and misuse in the mountains: a UIAA MedCom consensus guide for medical professionals. High Alt Med Biol. 17:157-184, 2016.-Aims: The aim of this review is to inform mountaineers about drugs commonly used in mountains. For many years, drugs have been used to enhance performance in mountaineering. It is the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation-Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme) Medcom's duty to protect mountaineers from possible harm caused by uninformed drug use. The UIAA Medcom assessed relevant articles in scientific literature and peer-reviewed studies, trials, observational studies, and case series to provide information for physicians on drugs commonly used in the mountain environment. Recommendations were graded according to criteria set by the American College of Chest Physicians.

RESULTS

Prophylactic, therapeutic, and recreational uses of drugs relevant to mountaineering are presented with an assessment of their risks and benefits.

CONCLUSIONS

If using drugs not regulated by the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA), individuals have to determine their own personal standards for enjoyment, challenge, acceptable risk, and ethics. No system of drug testing could ever, or should ever, be policed for recreational climbers. Sponsored climbers or those who climb for status need to carefully consider both the medical and ethical implications if using drugs to aid performance. In some countries (e.g., Switzerland and Germany), administrative systems for mountaineering or medication control dictate a specific stance, but for most recreational mountaineers, any rules would be unenforceable and have to be a personal decision, but should take into account the current best evidence for risk, benefit, and sporting ethics.

High twin resemblance for sensitivity to hypoxia

PURPOSE

Physiological responses to hypoxia vary between individuals, and genetic factors are conceivably involved. Using a monozygotic twin design, we investigated the role of genetic factors in physiological responses to acute hypoxia.

METHODS

Thirteen pairs of monozygotic twin brothers participated in two experimental sessions in a normobaric hypoxic facility with a 2-wk interval. In one session, fraction of inspired O2 (FiO2) was gradually reduced to 10.7% (approximately 5300 m altitude) over 5 h. During the next 3 h at 10.7%, FiO2 subjects performed a 20-min submaximal exercise bout (EXSUB, 1.2 W·kg) and a maximal incremental exercise test (EXMAX). An identical control experiment was done in normoxia. Cardiorespiratory measurements were continuously performed, and 8-h urine output was collected.

RESULTS

Compared with normoxia, hypoxia decreased (P < 0.05) arterial O2 saturation (%SpO2) at rest (-22%) and during exercise (-28%). Furthermore, V˙O2max (-39%), HRmax (HR, -8%), maximal pulmonary ventilation (V˙Emax, -11%), and urinary norepinephrine excretion (-31%) were reduced (P < 0.05) whereas HR at rest (25%) and during EXSUB (16%) and V˙E at rest (38%) and during EXSUB (70%) were increased (P < 0.05). However, hypoxia-induced changes (Δ) were not randomly distributed between subjects. Between-pair variance was substantially larger than within-pair variance (P < 0.05) for Δ%SpO2 at rest (approximately threefold) and during exercise (approximately fourfold), ΔV˙O2max (approximately fourfold), ΔHR during exercise (approximately seven- to eightfold), hypoxic ventilatory response (approximately sixfold), and Δ urinary norepinephrine output (approximately threefold). Incidence of acute mountain sickness (AMS) also yielded significant twin similarity (P < 0.05). AMS subjects showed approximately 50% greater drop in urinary norepinephrine and lower hypoxic ventilator response than AMS individuals.

CONCLUSIONS

Our data suggest that genetic factors regulate cardiorespiratory responses, exercise tolerance, and pathogenesis of AMS symptoms in acute severe hypoxia. Hypoxia-induced sympathetic downregulation was associated with AMS.

Cerebral volumetric changes induced by prolonged hypoxic exposure and whole-body exercise

The present study assessed the isolated and synergetic effects of hypoxic exposure and prolonged exercise on cerebral volume and subedema and symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS). Twelve healthy males performed three semirandomized blinded 11-hour sessions with (1) an inspiratory oxygen fraction (FiO2) of 12% and 4-hour cycling, (2) FiO2=21% and 4-hour cycling, and (3) FiO2=8.5% to 12% at rest (matching arterial oxygen saturation measured during the first hypoxic session). Volumetric, apparent diffusion coefficient (ADC), and arterial spin labelling 3T magnetic resonance imaging sequences were performed after 30 minutes and 10 hours in each session. Thirty minutes of hypoxia at rest induced a significant increase in white-matter volume (+0.8±1.0% compared with normoxia) that was exacerbated after 10 hours of hypoxia at rest (+1.5±1.1%) or with cycling (+1.6±1.1%). Total brain parenchyma volume increased significantly after 10 hours of hypoxia with cycling only (+1.3±1.1%). Apparent diffusion coefficient was significantly reduced after 10 hours of hypoxia at rest or with cycling. No significant change in cerebral blood flow was observed. These results demonstrate changes in white-matter volume as early as after 30 minutes of hypoxia that worsen after 10 hours, probably due to cytotoxic edema. Exercise accentuates the effect of hypoxia by increasing total brain volume. These changes do not however correlate with AMS symptoms.

Acute mountain sickness is not repeatable across two 12-hour normobaric hypoxia exposures

OBJECTIVE

The purposes of this experiment were to determine the repeatability of acute mountain sickness (AMS), AMS symptoms, and physiological responses across 2 identical hypoxic exposures.

METHODS

Subjects (n = 25) spent 3 nights at simulated altitude in a normobaric hypoxia chamber: twice at a partial pressure of inspired oxygen (PIO2) of 90mmHg (4000 m equivalent; "hypoxia") and once at a PIO2 of 132 mmHg (1000 m equivalent; "sham") with 14 or more days between exposures. The following variables were measured at hours 0 and 12 of each exposure: AMS severity (ie, Lake Louise score [LLS]), AMS incidence (LLS ≥3), heart rate, oxygen saturation, blood pressure, and the fraction of exhaled nitric oxide. Oxygen saturation and heart rate were also measured while subjects slept.

RESULTS

The incidence of AMS was not statistically different between the 2 exposures (84% vs 56%, P > .05), but the severity of AMS (ie, LLS) was significantly lower on the second hypoxic exposure (mean [SD], 3.1 [1.8]) relative to the first hypoxic exposure (4.8 [2.3]; P < .001). Headache was the only AMS symptom to have a significantly greater severity on both hypoxic exposures (relative to the sham exposure, P < .05). Physiological variables were moderately to strongly repeatable (intraclass correlation range 0.39 to 0.86) but were not associated with AMS susceptibility (P > .05).

CONCLUSIONS

The LLS was not repeatable across 2 identical hypoxic exposures. Increased familiarity with the environment (not acclimation) could explain the reduced AMS severity on the second hypoxic exposure. Headache was the most reliable AMS symptom.

The effect of hypoxemia and exercise on acute mountain sickness symptoms

Performing exercise during the first hours of hypoxic exposure is thought to exacerbate acute mountain sickness (AMS), but whether this is due to increased hypoxemia or other mechanisms associated with exercise remains unclear. In 12 healthy men, AMS symptoms were assessed during three 11-h experimental sessions: 1) in Hypoxia-exercise, inspiratory O(2) fraction (Fi(O(2))) was 0.12, and subjects performed 4-h cycling at 45% Fi(O(2))-specific maximal power output from the 4th to the 8th hour; 2) in Hypoxia-rest, Fi(O(2)) was continuously adjusted to match the same arterial oxygen saturation as in Hypoxia-exercise, and subjects remained at rest; and 3) in Normoxia-exercise, Fi(O(2)) was 0.21, and subjects cycled as in Hypoxia-exercise at 45% Fi(O(2))-specific maximal power output. AMS scores did not differ significantly between Hypoxia-exercise and Hypoxia-rest, while they were significantly lower in Normoxia-exercise (Lake Louise score: 5.5 ± 2.1, 4.4 ± 2.4, and 2.3 ± 1.5, and cerebral Environmental Symptom Questionnaire: 1.2 ± 0.7, 1.0 ± 1.0, and 0.3 ± 0.4, in Hypoxia-exercise, Hypoxia-rest, and Normoxia-exercise, respectively; P < 0.01). Headache scored by visual analog scale was higher in Hypoxia-exercise and Hypoxia-rest compared with Normoxia-exercise (36 ± 22, 35 ± 25, and 5 ± 6, P < 0.001), while the perception of fatigue was higher in Hypoxia-exercise compared with Hypoxia-rest (60 ± 24, 32 ± 22, and 46 ± 23, in Hypoxia-exercise, Hypoxia-rest, and Normoxia-exercise, respectively; P < 0.01). Despite significant physiological stress during hypoxic exercise and some AMS symptoms induced by normoxic cycling at similar relative workload, exercise does not significantly worsen AMS severity during the first hours of hypoxic exposure at a given arterial oxygen desaturation. Hypoxemia per se appears, therefore, to be the main mechanism underlying AMS, whether or not exercise is performed.