Rose Petal Extract (Rosa gallica) Exerts Skin Whitening and Anti-Skin Wrinkle Effects

Matrix Metalloproteinases on Skin Photoaging

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is characterized by an imbalance between the generation and degradation of extracellular matrix molecules (ECM). Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are the primary enzymes responsible for ECM breakdown. Intrinsic and extrinsic stimuli can induce different MMPs. However, there is limited literature especially on the summary of skin MMPs and potential inhibitors.

OBJECTIVE

We aim to focus on the upregulation of MMP expression or activity in skin cells following exposure to UV radiation. We also would like to offer valuable insights into potential clinical applications of MMP inhibitors for mitigating skin aging.

METHODS

This article presents the summary of prior research, which involved an extensive literature search across diverse academic databases including Web of Science and PubMed.

RESULTS

Our findings offer a comprehensive insight into the effects of MMPs on skin aging after UV irradiation, including their substrate preferences and distinct roles in this process. Additionally, a comprehensive list of natural plant and animal extracts, proteins, polypeptides, amino acids, as well as natural and synthetic compounds that serve as inhibitors for MMPs is compiled.

CONCLUSION

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by environmental factors and MMPs. Research focuses on UV-induced skin damage and the formation of Advanced Glycosylation End Products (AGEs), leading to wrinkles and impaired functionality. Inhibiting MMPs is crucial for maintaining youthful skin. Natural sources of MMP inhibitor substances, such as extracts from plants and animals, offer a safer approach to obtain inhibitors through dietary supplements. Studying isolated active ingredients can contribute to developing targeted MMP inhibitors.

Comparative study on metabolite variations of two rose teas by plant metabolomics and revealing their skin-whitening candidates by spectrum-effect relationship analysis

INTRODUCTION

Rosa rugosa var. plena Rehd (CBR) and Rosa chinensis cv. "JinBian" (JBR) are two common species used in rose tea among different original species. CBR, the officially documented original plant of the rose species for food and medicinal purposes, is more costly than JBR. With increasing demand for different rose teas, it is meaningful to compare the chemical constituents for their quality control and reveal their skin-whitening components that will provide in-depth insights for the expansion of the rose tea industry.

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to reveal the chemical variances between CBR and JBR and determine their skin-whitening components.

METHODOLOGY

A strategy obtained by combining MS-based plant-metabolomics with spectrum-effect relationship analysis has been proposed for unveiling chemical differences between CBR and JBR and further exploring their potential skin-whitening components.

RESULTS

A total of 2030 metabolites were found that revealed considerable differences between CBR and JBR. The results of bioactivity assay demonstrated that JBR exhibited stronger tyrosinase inhibition activity than CBR. Six potential skin-whitening compounds (di-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, tri-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, spiraeoside, quinic acid, rugosin A, and 1,2,3,6-tetra-O-galloyl-glucose) were discovered as potential tyrosinase inhibitors, via spectrum-effect relationship analysis. This is the first time that di-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, tri-O-galloyl-HHDP-glucoside, rugosin A, and 1,2,3,6-tetra-O-galloyl-glucose have been reported with tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Additionally, molecular docking analysis was used to reveal the inhibition mechanism of these compounds toward tyrosinase.

CONCLUSION

The finding of this study will be of great importance for the quality control of the two types of rose teas, and the revealed active ingredients will provide in-depth insights for the expansion of the rose tea industry.

Chemical constituents and bioactivities of fermented rose (from Yunnan) extract

Natural plant extracts have gained significant attention in research due to their low toxicity, and potent antioxidant, and anti-aging properties. The present study investigated the phytochemical composition of a fermented rose extract (FRE), and evaluated its antioxidant, skin whitening, and anti-aging activities in vitro. The results showed that the FRE was rich in polyphenols and flavonoids. A total of 13 major compounds were identified by Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS), with astragalin as the primary component. In vitro, analysis of antioxidant activity showed that FRE effectively eliminated 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radicals and dose-dependent reduced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels. The FRE dose-dependent inhibited tyrosinase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase activity, reduced intracellular melanin synthesis, up-regulated the expression of collagen type I alpha 1 (COL1A1) and collagen type III alpha 1 (COL3A1), and down-regulated matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) expression. Additionally, treatment with FRE significantly downregulated the expression of mitogen-activated protein kinase 1 (MAPK1), suggesting that FRE may modulate MAPK signaling pathways for skin anti-aging.

Genotoxic and Anti-Genotoxic Potential of Hydrosols from Water-Steam Distillation of Oil-Bearing Roses Rosa centifolia L. and Rosa gallica L. from Bulgaria

Rosa centifolia L. and Rosa gallica L. (Rosaceae) are grown as raw materials for valuable essential oils and hydrosols. There are scarce data about the biological activities and the genoprotective potential of the hydrosols of these roses. The aim of the study was to provide information on their cytotoxic/genotoxic activity and anti-cytotoxic/anti-genotoxic capacity against mutagenic N-methyl-N'-nitro-N-nitrosoguanidine (MNNG). The evaluation was performed using classical tests for chromosomal aberrations and micronuclei in the higher plant Hordeum vulgare and human lymphocyte test systems. The experimental schemes included combined hydrosol and mutagen treatment. Both hydrosols (6, 14, 20%) had no cytotoxic effect on barley and showed low genotoxicity in both test systems as the injuries were enhanced to a lesser extent compared to the controls. Lymphocytes were more susceptible than H. vulgare. Under the conditions of combined treatment, it was found that the two hydrosols possessed good anti-cytotoxic and anti-genotoxic potential against MNNG. Both rose products exerted genoprotective potential to a similar extent, decreasing the frequencies of aberrations in chromosomes and micronuclei to a significant degree in both types of cells when non-toxic concentrations of hydrosols were applied before MNNG. This was performed both with and without any inter-treatment time. The observed cytoprotective/genoprotective potential suggests that these hydrosols are promising for further application in phytotherapy and medicine.

Skin-whitening effects of Spergularia marina by suppressing MITF translocation

Spergularia marina is a plant that grows in salty regions along the coastline and exerts radical-scavenging and anti-inflammatory effects. In this study, we investigated the skin-whitening effects of S. marina extract (SME) in B16F10 melanoma cells. SME was found to exert radical-scavenging effects. It suppressed α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity. We also assessed the melanin production signaling pathway to identify the inhibitory action mechanism of SME on melanogenesis. SME decreased the protein expression levels of tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase, which play important roles in melanogenesis. Furthermore, western blotting revealed that SME inhibited the nuclear translocation of melanocyte inducing transcription factor (MITF), which is a transcription factor for TRP-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase, suggesting that SME exerts its skin-whitening effect by inhibiting MITF nuclear translocation. Therefore, SME may potentially be used in skin-whitening medicines and cosmetics.

The formulation and in vitro evaluation of WS Biotin, a novel encapsulated form of D-Biotin with improved water solubility for hair and skin treatment applications

OBJECTIVE

To develop and evaluate the efficacy of WS Biotin, a novel water-soluble form of D-Biotin, for cosmetic use.

METHODS

A new encapsulated form of D-Biotin was developed with the purpose of improving the water solubility of biotin. This novel form of encapsulated biotin was characterized by its physicochemical properties: particle size, D-Biotin content and solubility in water. Also, proliferation and gene expression in vitro tests in cell culture were performed to evaluate its effectiveness in promoting hair growth, an ELISA test was conducted for hair keratinization and skin lightening property was tested by analysing the intracellular melanin content.

RESULTS

The developed WS Biotin microcapsules exhibit a particle size range of 2-30 μm with D-Biotin content of ~50% (w/w). The water solubility of WS Biotin was found to be 20-fold greater than free biotin. The obtained in vitro results indicated that WS Biotin enhances the expression of hair-related keratins in hair follicle keratinocytes, as well as the expression of hair growth-promoting genes in dermal papilla cells. Moreover, the melanin content in UVA-exposed epidermal melanocytes was reduced upon exposure to WS Biotin.

CONCLUSION

In this work, a novel form of encapsulated biotin, WS Biotin, was developed in order to improve the water solubility of free biotin and was found to be effective for cosmetic use in both hair and skin applications.

Beneficial medicinal effects and material applications of rose

Rose is a beautiful and fragrant plant with a variety of medicinal and substance uses. Various parts of rose such as fruits, flowers, leaves, and bark can be used in various product development, including cosmetics, food, pharmaceuticals, and engineering. The medical benefits of roses include the treatment of inflammation, diabetes, dysmenorrhea, depression, stress, seizures, and aging. Rose water is precious beauty water for skin care and has antibacterial effects on various microbiota. The surface of a rose petal exhibits a hierarchical structure comprising microscale papillae, with each papilla further featuring intricate nanofolds. With this structural feature, rose petals have high water contact angles together with antagonistic wetting properties. The hierarchical structures of rose petals were shown to have anti-reflection and light-harvesting abilities, which have the potential to be materials for various electronic products. Rose petals are an excellent biomimetic/bioinspired material that can be applied to the popular material graphene. This paper reviews the medical function and material application of roses. During the COVID-19 pandemic, medical materials or food shortages have become a global issue. Natural biomaterials could be a good alternative. Roses, with so many benefits, definitely deserve more exploration and promotion.

Investigation of Physicochemical Properties and Surface Morphology of Hydrogel Materials Incorporating Rosehip Extract

Hydrogel materials are used in many fields of science and industry. They are of particular importance in biomedical applications. In this work, hydrogels were obtained that could act as a dressing for wounds, at the same time being a carrier of substances with antioxidant activity. The discussed materials were obtained in the field of UV radiation. The correlation between the amount of photoinitiator used and the physicochemical properties and surface morphology of the obtained materials was investigated. In addition, the hydrogels have been incorporated with wild rose extract, which is characterized by antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. The analysis of the sorption capacity confirmed that the obtained material is able to absorb significant amounts of incubation fluids, which, in terms of application, will enable the absorption of exudate from the wound. The highest stability of materials was noted for hydrogels obtained with the use of intermediate amounts of photoinitiator, i.e., 50 µL and 70 µL. In the case of using 20 µL or 100 µL, the photopolymerization process did not proceed properly and the obtained material was characterized by a lack of homogeneity and high brittleness. With the increase in the amount of photoinitiator, an increase in the surface roughness of hydrogel materials was confirmed. In turn, spectroscopic analysis ruled out the degradation of materials in incubation fluids, indicating the potential for their use in biomedical applications.

Detailed Metabolic Characterization of Flowers and Hips of Rosa gallica L. Grown in Open Nature

Our research aimed to investigate the primary and secondary metabolites of rosehips and petals of R. gallica in comparison with R. subcanina. R. gallica was chosen because it is still unexplored in terms of various bioactive substances and is strongly present in Slovenia. Given that roses are generally very variable and unstudied, our research will contribute to greater transparency and knowledge of the bioactive composition of rosehips and petals. We found a strong positive correlation between the total content of phenolics and ascorbic acid, between the total content of organic acids and the total content of carotenoids, and between the total content of sugars and the total content of organic acids. Hips of R. gallica contained higher amounts of sugars, ascorbic acid, and carotenoids than R. subcanina. Based on the composition of phenolic compounds in the petals, it is possible to distinguish between the two species. Among all the phenolic compounds in the petals, both genotypes are richest in gallotannins, followed by flavonols. Among anthocyanins, cyanidin-3-glucoside was determined, the content of which was also higher in R. gallica. It can be concluded that the studied hips had an extremely low sugar content and, consequently, an extremely high organic acid content. The content of carotenoids in hips was in the lower range of the average content compared to data from the literature. By optimizing the harvesting time, we could obtain a higher content of carotenoids, which could potentially be used for industrial purposes. However, we found that the analyzed petals were a rich source of phenolic compounds, which benefit the human body and could be potentially used in the food and cosmetic industries.

Rosa gallica and its active compound, cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside, improve skin hydration via the GLK signaling pathway

Rosa gallica has been previously reported to display anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, and anti-skin wrinkle activities. However, the effect of Rosa gallica on skin hydration and its active components are largely unknown. Herein, we aimed to investigate the skin hydration effect of rose petal extract (RPE) in humans and elucidate the underlying molecular mechanism. A double-blinded clinical study was performed to investigate the effect of RPE on skin hydration. Stratum corneum moisture analysis demonstrated that RPE treatment significantly improved hydration levels in human skin. Furthermore, HAS2 and hyaluronic acid levels were notably increased by RPE in keratinocytes and 3D human skin equivalent model. By comparing the modulatory effect on HAS2 expression, cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside (CDG) was identified as the most potent compound in RPE likely responsible for skin hydration. The kinase activity of GLK, an upstream regulator of MAPK signaling, was increased by CDG in a dose-dependent manner. Importantly, silencing GLK reversed CDG-mediated HAS2 upregulation, further supporting the involvement of GLK in the CDG-mediated effects. Binding of CDG to GLK was confirmed by pull-down assay and computer modeling. These findings suggest that RPE and its active component CDG increases skin hydration by upregulating HAS2 expression through modulating the GLK-MAP2K-MAPK signaling pathway.

Plants as Modulators of Melanogenesis: Role of Extracts, Pure Compounds and Patented Compositions in Therapy of Pigmentation Disorders

The kingdom of plants as a "green biofabric" of valuable bioactive molecules has long been used in many ailments. Currently, extracts and pure compounds of plant origin are used to aid in pigmentation skin problems by influencing the process of melanogenesis. Melanin is a very important pigment that protects human skin against ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress. It is produced by a complex process called melanogenesis. However, disturbances in the melanogenesis mechanism may increase or decrease the level of melanin and generate essential skin problems, such as hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. Accordingly, inhibitors or activators of pigment formation are desirable for medical and cosmetic industry. Such properties may be exhibited by molecules of plant origin. Therefore, that literature review presents reports on plant extracts, pure compounds and compositions that may modulate melanin production in living organisms. The potential of plants in the therapy of pigmentation disorders has been highlighted.

Effects of tocotrienol on aging skin: A systematic review

The skin is the largest organ of the body that protects from mechanical, thermal, and physical injury. However, the function and appearance of skin visibly degenerates with age due to its frequent exposure to harmful effects of the environment, including ultraviolet irradiation and hazardous substances, in addition to the progression of oxidative stress in aging. These factors result in phenotypic changes in the skin, including wrinkling, pigmentation, reduced elasticity, and hydration during aging. Many natural antioxidant compounds have been studied extensively to reverse the signs of aging skin. Tocotrienols are a subfamily of vitamin E with potent antioxidant activity. Therefore, supplementation with vitamin E in the form of tocotrienol may efficiently protect skin from aging. In this review, the effects of tocotrienol on skin health, including pigmentation, moisture, and wrinkles during aging and UV exposure, were systematically evaluated based on a literature search of the PubMed and Scopus databases. The present data showed that tocotrienols protect the skin from inflammation, UV radiation and melanin accumulation. As the therapeutic value of tocotrienols grows, the potential of these vitamin E analogs to the skin requires further investigation.

The Modulation of Melanogenesis in B16 Cells Upon Treatment with Plant Extracts and Isolated Plant Compounds

Plants are a rich source of secondary metabolites that exhibit numerous desired properties. The compounds may influence the biology of melanocytes, pigment cells that produce melanin, by modulating numerous signaling pathways, including cAMP/PKA, MAPKs and PI3K/AKT. Its downstream target is microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, responsible for the expression of the tyrosinase enzyme, which plays a major role in melanogenesis. Therefore, this literature review aims to provide insights related to melanogenesis modulation mechanisms of plant extracts and isolated plant compounds in B16 cells. Database searches were conducted using online-based library search instruments from 2012 to 2022, such as NCBI-PubMed and Google Scholar. Upregulation or downregulation of signaling pathways by phytochemicals can influence skin hypo- and hyperpigmentation by changing the level of melanin production, which may pose a significant cosmetic issue. Therefore, plant extracts or isolated plant compounds may be used in the therapy of pigmentation disorders.

Umbilicaria esculenta Extract Exhibits Antiwrinkle Activity by Suppressing ErbB2 Phosphorylation

Umbilicaria esculenta (UE), an edible lichen, is widespread in northeast Asian countries, including China, Japan, and Korea. In the present study, we examined the antiwrinkle activity of UE. We observed that the UE extract (UEE) suppressed ultraviolet (UV)-induced matrix metalloprotein-1 (MMP-1) expression and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and human skin tissue. In addition, UEE reversed the UV-induced decrease in collagen in the human skin tissue. Excessive and chronic UV exposure is a key factor underlying skin wrinkle formation via MMP-1 expression. As treatment with UEE disrupted the UV-activated mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathway, we applied an antibody array to unveil the underlying mechanism of UEE. Interestingly, UEE treatment inhibited ErbB2 phosphorylation, but not epidermal growth factor receptor phosphorylation, a heterodimerization partner with ErbB2. Furthermore, UEE treatment enhanced UV-suppressed phosphatase activity via ROS suppression. Collectively, our findings indicate that UEE enhances ErbB2 dephosphorylation to suppress UV-induced MMP-1 expression.

By-product of Korean liquor fermented by Saccharomyces cerevisiae exhibits skin whitening activity

Herein, the skin whitening effect of the fermentation residue of Saccharomyces cerevisiae was investigated. The fermentation residue showed radical scavenging activity and attenuated tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, the fermentation residue of S. cerevisiae significantly suppressed melanin generation in B16F10 cells. Interestingly, the sample-containing formulation exhibited increased skin whitening activity compared with that by the control formulation in a clinical study. Notably, the endogenous tyrosinase expression was not altered by the fermentation residue of S. cerevisiae; however, the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase was inhibited. Furthermore, the sample did not change TRP1 and TRP2 expression in B16F10 cells. Thus, the fermentation residue of S. cerevisiae was assumed to directly suppress the tyrosinase enzyme. It was confirmed that the fermentation residue of S. cerevisiae was a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase. Taken together, the fermentation residue of S. cerevisiae could be a novel skin whitening agent originating from the traditional Korean liquor production process.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s10068-022-01062-7.

Inhibitory effect of Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract obtained through ultrasound-assisted extraction on melanoma cells

Although the immune enhancing effect of yeast has been widely reported, studies specifically investigating its effects on skin cancer are lacking. Therefore, this study aimed to develop a yeast extract capable of inhibiting melanoma cells using ultrasound technology, which can lyse the cell walls allowing subsequent rapid yeast extraction. To compare the extraction efficiency across different extraction methods, the total yield, as well as total glucan, α-glucan, and β-glucan yields were measured. Ultrasound-assisted extract of yeast (UAEY) was found to effectively inhibit melanoma cell growth and proliferation as well as the expression of cyclin D1 and c-myc, in vitro. Additionally, the extract reduced melanoma tumor volume and cyclin D1 levels in BALB/c nu/nu mice. The optimal extraction conditions were 0.2 M NaOH, 3 h, 70 °C, 20 kHz, and 800 W, resulting in an increased total extraction and β-glucan yields of 73.6% and 7.1%, respectively, compared with that achieved using a conventional chemical (0.5 M NaOH) extraction method. Taken together, the results of this study suggest that UAEY may represent an effective anti-skin cancer agent.

Inhibition of Solar UV-Induced Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 Expression by Non-Enzymatic Softening Cherry Blossom (Prunus yedoensis) Extract

Cherry blossom (Prunus yedoensis) petals are used as ingredients in many cosmetics. However, despite their use in numerous products, the exact function of cherry blossom petals in cosmetics is unclear. Therefore, we need evidence-based studies to support the labeling claims that are made in cherry blossom products in the cosmetics industry. We investigated the skin anti-aging potential of non-enzymatic softening cherry blossom extract (NES-CBE) in this study. The extract desalinated, to improve its quality such that it can be used as a functional material for the skin. The anti-wrinkle effect of NES-CBE was investigated on human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) under solar UV (sUV) light exposure. We found that NES-CBE reduced the sUV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression and modulated the transactivation of the activator protein (AP)-1. Furthermore, NES-CBE suppressed the phosphorylation of MEK1/2 and ERK proteins, indicating its regulation of sUV-induced MAPK signaling. Additionally, we observed NES-CBE reduced MMP-1 protein expression in a human skin equivalent model. Taken together, these results suggest that NES-CBE reduces sUV-induced MMP-1 protein expression through reducing AP-1 transactivation via regulation of the MEK1/2-ERK pathway.

Rosa platyacantha Schrenk from Kazakhstan-Natural Source of Bioactive Compounds with Cosmetic Significance

Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad spectrum of healing and cosmetic activities. Rosa platyacantha Schrenk is a wild-type species abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan. The phytochemical composition as well as the bioactivity of R. platyacantha extracts have not been fully investigated to date. In this study, various parts of R. platyacantha plant, collected in Almaty region, Kazakhstan, were used to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1–R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities, which are important for the potential cosmetic application of R. platyacantha. Extract R3, prepared from flower buds, showed the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Extract R3 showed also collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375, being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. Analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, revealed that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin, and their derivatives are more likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts.