Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare

Facial Skincare Routine Adherence in the General Population

Introduction The COVID-19 pandemic sparked an interest in skincare with the closure of spas and salons. Skincare, one of TikTok's most popular dermatology-related hashtags, received hundreds of millions of views. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) shared facial cleansing recommendations; however,  how many people follow them is unclear. Studies have shown a good daily facial cleansing and moisturizing routine can increase microbiome diversity and skin hydration. This can be beneficial in conditions like psoriasis, eczema, and acne. Purpose The aim of the study is to assess how well people follow the AAD recommendations and evaluate any differences in this behavior by gender. Methods A 19-question survey was designed and administered utilizing Qualtrics. The questions included demographic information, facial cleansing practices, and motivation for skincare routine. The survey was distributed via Rowan Email and on various social media platforms (GroupMe, Instagram, etc.) to target the general population. The data was analyzed using SPSS. Results One hundred twenty-four responses were collected from 91 female-identifying and 33 male-identifying participants. There were statistically significant differences between genders for the use of non-alcoholic gentle cleanser (p<0.001), use of moisturizer after washing the face (p<0.001), washing the face after sweating (p<0.001), and using warm water (p=0.026). No statistically significant difference was seen for face washing occurrence between genders (p=0.098). Statistically significant differences were seen between genders for motivation: hygiene (p<0.001), beauty/anti-aging (p<0.001), and health (p=0.004).  Conclusion Individuals who identify as female may be more likely to adhere to AAD facial skincare recommendations. This could be a result of self-reported motivations such as hygiene, beauty, and health.

Evaluation test and analysis of a microneedle and iontophoresis based medical device "CELLADEEP Patch" in skin improvement on ex vivo human-derived skin tissue models

BACKGROUND

Microneedles are tiny needles, typically ranging from tens to hundreds of micrometers in length, used in various medical procedures and treatments. The tested medical device named "CELLADEEP Patch" a dissolvable microneedle therapy system (MTS), made of hyaluronic acid and collagen. And the iontophoresis technique is also applied in the system. The study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of the "CELLADEEP Patch" in skin improvement.

METHODS

Ex vivo human-derived skin tissue models were used in this study and they were divided into three different groups, namely, the Untreated Group, the Negative Control Group, and the Test Group respectively. The Untreated Group received no treatment measures, the Negative Control Group was exposed to ultraviolet B radiation (UVB) irradiation, and the Test Group was exposed to UVB irradiation and treated with "CELLADEEP Patch". Skin moisture content, transdermal water loss, and skin elasticity were evaluated by three clinical devices. Additionally, histological staining and related mRNA expression levels were also analyzed.

RESULTS

The results of skin moisture content, transdermal water loss, and skin elasticity evaluation consistently illustrated that the application of "CELLADEEP Patch" led to remarkable skin improvement. And the analysis of histological staining images also confirmed the effectiveness of the "CELLADEEP Patch", especially for increasing collagen density. Moreover, the upregulation of Collagen type 1 a (COL1A1) and hyaluronan synthase 3 mRNA expression and the decrease of Matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) and Interleukin-1 beta (IL-1β) mRNA expression reflected its wrinkle improvement, moisturizing and anti-inflammation function.

CONCLUSION

"CELLADEPP Patch", the MTS combined with the iontophoresis technique, exhibits its effectiveness in moisturizing, skin elasticity improvement, and anti-inflammatory function when applied to ex vivo human-derived skin tissue models in experiments. The study has contributed to the understanding of the "CELLADEPP Patch" and laid the foundation for subsequent animal experiments and clinical trials.

Beneficial Effects of Multi-Micronutrient Supplementation with Collagen Peptides on Global Wrinkles, Skin Elasticity and Appearance in Healthy Female Subjects

INTRODUCTION

With ageing, collagen production slows down, leading to wrinkle appearance and loss of elasticity. Replenishing key structural molecules through oral supplementation is a promising strategy that complements the topical delivery of cosmetic products and creates a holistic skincare regimen. The present study assessed the effectiveness of a food supplement with collagen peptides, vitamins and minerals in improving the quality of the skin and general wellbeing of healthy women.

METHODS

This was an open-label study of 135 women aged between 45 and 65 years. A 3-month treatment phase followed a 4-week washout phase, with visits scheduled at baseline and after each month of treatment. Subjects received three tablets of Richelet Skin Renewal daily. The primary outcome was change from baseline to month 3 in global wrinkles score by expert grader analysis. Secondary outcomes included changes in skin elasticity and other skin attributes, product assessment via self-perception questionnaires and total antioxidant status.

RESULTS

A total of 116 subjects completed the study. The mean global wrinkles score indicated a statistically significant decrease from 5.9 at baseline to 5.0 at month 3 (p < 0.0001), with 83.6% of subjects showing an improvement; significant changes were reported at all intermediate visits. The increase in skin elasticity was also statistically significant (R2 score 0.74 at month 3; p < 0.0001). All subjects (100%) demonstrated significant improvements in skin texture, skin tone evenness, skin radiance and overall skin quality at the month 3 visit.

CONCLUSIONS

The study product achieved statistically significant, noticeable effects on global wrinkles, skin elasticity and a range of skin attributes after 3 months of use in healthy women. These results strengthen the evidence for supplementation of collagen peptides and other micronutrients as an effective component of anti-ageing skincare.

Identification of Yellow Advanced Glycation End Products in Human Skin

Skin yellowness is a hallmark of dull or unhealthy skin, particularly among Asians. Previous research has indicated a link between skin glycation and skin yellowness. However, the specific glycated chemicals contributing to yellowish skin appearance have not been identified yet. Using HPLC-PDA-HRMS coupled with native and artificially glycated human epidermal explant skin, we identified intensely yellow colored glycated chromophores "(1R, 8aR) and (1S, 8aR)-4-(2-furyl)-7-[(2-furyl)-methylidene]-2-hydroxy-2H,7H,8AH-pyrano-[2,3-B]-pyran-3-one" (abbreviated as AGEY) from human skin samples for the first time. The abundance of AGEY was strongly correlated with skin yellowness in the multiple skin explant tissues. We further confirmed the presence of AGEY in cultured human keratinocytes and 3D reconstructed human epidermal (RHE) models. Additionally, we demonstrated that a combination of four cosmetic compounds with anti-glycation properties can inhibit the formation of AGEY and reduce yellowness in the RHE models. In conclusion, we have identified specific advanced glycation end products with an intense yellow color, namely AGEY, in human skin tissues for the first time. The series of study results highlighted the significant contribution of AGEY to the yellow appearance of the skin. Furthermore, we have identified a potential cosmetic solution to mitigate AGEY formation, leading to a reduction in yellowness in the in vitro RHE models.

The effects of Jawoongo soap on skin improvement

BACKGROUND

Jawoongo is used to treat and prevent skin issues such as dry and keratinization disorders, burns, trauma, pigmentation, scarring, and inflammatory skin conditions. In this study, the efficacy and safety of 0.47% Jawoongo extract-containing soap (JAUN-CS) were assessed in terms of skin improvement effects such as cleansing, moisturizing, sebum secretion management, and skin elasticity enhancement.

METHODS

Twenty healthy adult men and women aged 20-60 years old took part in the study. Before and after using JAUN-CS, the participants were divided into groups, and various skin improvement effects were measured utilizing machines such as the Corneometer, Tewameter TM 300, and Visioscan. A dermatologist analyzed the product's safety in accordance with Frosch & Kligman and the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) rules.

RESULTS

Using JAUN reduced the amount of base and point makeup by 25.7% and 76.7%, respectively. Also, JAUN showed a great facial exfoliation effect by removing the old and lifted skin keratins by 84.7% and 20.3%, respectively. Impurities in facial pores decreased by 58%, too. Furthermore, JAUN increased the moisture content of deep skin and skin surface by 3.5% and 74.0%, and skin elasticity by 2.8%. Skin tone, skin texture, skin radiance, and skin barrier all showed improvements of 3.3%, 20.0%, 15.0%, and 115.2%, respectively. Lastly, cleansing with JAUN successfully enhanced the condition of the youth triangle by 7.6%, while TEWL significantly decreased by 52.7%. Neither the JAUN nor the control group soap showed any adverse reactions, such as erythema or allergies, during the testing period.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study demonstrated that JAUN is safe for human use and has various skin-improving properties, making Jawoongo a promising natural material for the development of functional cosmetics in the future.

Exhausted Grape Seed Residues as a Valuable Source of Antioxidant Molecules for the Formulation of Biocompatible Cosmetic Scrubs

Grape seed of Obeidi, a white Lebanese autochthonous variety, was previously tested in different studies as a valuable source of bioactive molecules such as polyphenols, oils, and proteins by means of extraction procedures for the development of cosmetic and therapeutic products. However, an un-valorized, exhausted grape seed residue remains as "secondary waste" after the extraction processes. In this study, the exhausted seeds have been further exploited to produce cosmetic scrubs capable of releasing antioxidant molecules during the exfoliation process, in accordance with the principles of the circular economy and going toward a zero-waste process. The deep characterization of the exhausted seeds confirmed the presence of antioxidant phenolic molecules including gallic acid, catechins and protocatechuic acid (0.13, 0.126, and 0.089 mg/g of dry matter DM), and a high phenolic content (11.85 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g of dry matter (DM)). Moreover, these residues were shown to possess a sandy texture (Hausner ratio (HR): 1.154, Carr index (CI): 0.133, and angle of repose: 31.62 (°) degrees), similar to commercial natural exfoliants. In this respect, exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues were incorporated at increasing concentrations (0.5, 1, 1.5, and 2% w/w) in a cosmetic scrub, and stored for 5 weeks at 4, 25, and 50 °C for stability testing. All tested scrub formulations exhibited good spreadability with a spread diameter of 3.6-4.7 cm and excellent physical stability, as no phase separation or color change were observed after four cycles of heat shock at 4 and 50 °C. Finally, an in vivo skin irritation test showed that the scrub enriched with 1.5% of exhausted Obeidi grape seed residues was the most promising formulation, as it possessed a high amount of phenolic molecules (0.042 ± 0.001 mg GAE/mL of scrub) and good stability and could be safely applied to the skin with no irritation phenomena. Overall results underlined that exhausted grape seed residues can be transformed into promising systems for both physical and chemical exfoliation, thus confirming the importance of the effective exploitation of agro-industrial by-products for the development of high value cosmeceutics towards a more sustainable and zero-waste approach.

Glycolipid Biosurfactants in Skincare Applications: Challenges and Recommendations for Future Exploitation

The 21st century has seen a substantial increase in the industrial applications of glycolipid biosurfactant technology. The market value of the glycolipid class of molecules, sophorolipids, was estimated to be USD 409.84 million in 2021, with that of rhamnolipid molecules projected to reach USD 2.7 billion by 2026. In the skincare industry, sophorolipid and rhamnolipid biosurfactants have demonstrated the potential to offer a natural, sustainable, and skin-compatible alternative to synthetically derived surfactant compounds. However, there are still many barriers to the wide-scale market adoption of glycolipid technology. These barriers include low product yield (particularly for rhamnolipids) and potential pathogenicity of some native glycolipid-producing microorganisms. Additionally, the use of impure preparations and/or poorly characterised congeners as well as low-throughput methodologies in the safety and bioactivity assessment of sophorolipids and rhamnolipids challenges their increased utilisation in both academic research and skincare applications. This review considers the current trend towards the utilisation of sophorolipid and rhamnolipid biosurfactants as substitutes to synthetically derived surfactant molecules in skincare applications, the challenges associated with their application, and relevant solutions proposed by the biotechnology industry. In addition, we recommend experimental techniques/methodologies, which, if employed, could contribute significantly to increasing the acceptance of glycolipid biosurfactants for use in skincare applications while maintaining consistency in biosurfactant research outputs.

A Comparative Study on Adipose-Derived Mesenchymal Stem Cells Secretome Delivery Using Microneedling and Fractional CO2 Laser for Facial Skin Rejuvenation

Background

The efficacy of adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ADMSCs) secretome for skin aging has been established, yet no studies hitherto directly investigated the best administration method for such purpose.

Purpose

We aimed to compare microneedling (MN) versus fractional CO₂ laser (FL) as methods of delivery for ADMSCs secretome in the treatment of aging skin.

Patients and Methods

A single-blind, randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted on 30 Indonesian women (aged 35-59 years old) with signs of facial cutaneous senescence. Their initial aging status was assessed by dermoscopy photoaging scale (DPAS) and Janus-III measurement system. In the second and fourth weeks, all participants were treated with both MN and FL, followed by the application of a four-fold concentrated ADMSC secretome. The assignment of which side of the face received MN or FL was done by computer-based randomization. Skin parameters were reevaluated on the fourth and sixth weeks, along with patient satisfaction, level of comfort, preference for administration techniques, and also adverse events experienced during the study. Appropriate statistical analyses were subsequently performed at a significance level of 0.05.

Results

Significant improvements in total DPAS and wrinkles were found in the MN and FL groups at the end of the trial. In contrast, no statistical differences in all parameters were observed between groups in the fourth and sixth weeks. FL scored higher than MN for satisfaction and preference, but lower in terms of comfort. Pain, burning sensation, and itch were the side effects experienced by subjects upon treatment. Two patients had prolonged reddish skin succeeding FL treatment, which relieved with moisturizer application.

Conclusion

Both MN and FL yielded comparable results for improving several skin aging features. However, subjective preference for ADMSCs secretome administration method may differ when considering satisfaction, comfort, and possible adverse events.

The medieval skincare routine according to the formulations of Madgistra Trotula and the Medical School of Salerno and its reflection on cosmetology of the third millennium

BACKGROUND

Officinal plants, minerals, animal derivatives, and miscellaneous have always been used to treat and improve appearance despite the different aesthetic canons of a specific historical and cultural context.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this work was to make a critical comparison between medieval and modern dermocosmetics analyzing the works of Trotula de Ruggiero, a female doctor of the 11th century teaching and working inside the illustrious "Medical School of Salerno," who devoted particular attention to the promotion of female care, beauty, and well-being.

METHODS

We applied the historical-critical method analyzing the Latin text and the nglish translation of the standardized corpus of the main Trotula medieval manuscript De Ornatu Mulierum with a multidisciplinary scientific approach ranging from botany to pharmaceutical chemistry and technology, pharmacology and pathology.

RESULTS

We identified the medicinal plants, derivatives of animal origin and minerals used in the recipes of Trotula, highlighting their biological properties in the light of current scientific knowledge. A critical comparison between medieval and modern dermocosmetics is reported also taking into consideration the chemical, pharmaceutical, and technological literature.

CONCLUSION

Beyond the obvious changes in the paradigms of cosmetology and the different beauty canons of Middle Age with respect to modern times, our results emphasize the attention of Trotula to female care, beauty and well-being as well as the extraordinary combination of tradition and modernity in her work.

Characterisation of cytotoxicity and immunomodulatory effects of glycolipid biosurfactants on human keratinocytes

Skin irritation and allergic reactions associated with the use of skincare products formulated with synthetically derived surfactants such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) have encouraged the search for naturally derived and biocompatible alternatives. Glycolipid biosurfactants such as sophorolipids (SL) and rhamnolipids (RL) offer a potential alternative to SLES. However, most studies on the bioactive properties of microbial glycolipids were determined using their mixed congeners, resulting in significant inter-study variations. This study aims to compare the effects of highly purified SL (acidic and lactonic) and RL (mono-RL and di-RL) congeners and SLES on a spontaneously transformed human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells) to assess glycolipids' safety for potential skincare applications. Preparations of acidic SL congeners were 100% pure, lactonic SL were 100% pure, mono-RL were 96% pure, and di-RL were 97% pure. Cell viability using XTT assays, cell morphological analyses, and immunoassays revealed that microbial glycolipids have differing effects on HaCaT cells dependent on chemical structure. Compared with SLES, acidic SL and mono-RL have negligible effects on cell viability, cell morphology, and production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Furthermore, at non-inhibitory concentrations, di-RL significantly attenuated IL-8 production and CXCL8 expression while increasing IL-1RA production and IL1RN expression in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated HaCaT cells. Although further studies would be required, these results demonstrate that as potential innocuous and bioactive compounds, microbial glycolipids could provide a substitute to synthetic surfactants in skincare formulations and perform immunopharmacological roles in topical skin infections such as psoriasis. KEY POINTS: • Purified glycolipid congeners have differing effects on human keratinocytes. • Compared with SLES, acidic sophorolipids and mono-rhamnolipids have innocuous effects on keratinocytes. • Di-rhamnolipids and mono-rhamnolipids modulate cytokine production in lipopolysaccharide stimulated human keratinocytes.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

Peel-off Kefir Mask Arachi (Arachis hypogaea L.): Characterization and Antioxidant Activity

This study aims to determine the best formulation for the peel-off mask Arachi or peanut (Arachis hypogaea L). Arachis hypogaea kefir as an active ingredient is added with variations in the concentration of F1 (0.5%) and F2 (2%) (w/v). Organoleptic tests, homogeneity, dry time, and pH were carried out on the peel-off mask that had been made. Antioxidant test (DPPH methods) was performed on masks F1 and F2. The results showed that the peel-off mask of A. hypogaea kefir had the best antioxidant activity at a concentration of 2% (F2) kefir with an IC50 value of 1.865 ppm and was very active. The characteristics of the peel-off mask have good physical stability, proven by not experiencing a change in color, odor, being homogeneous, having good dispersion power, and having a dry time ranging from 10-23 minutes. The pH value of the peel-off mask preparation is 4.52, and it is appropriate with SNI and the pH balance of normal human skin. The peel-off mask of A. hypogaea kefir can be produced because has good physical stability and antioxidant activity.

Probing gels and emulsions using large-amplitude oscillatory shear and frictional studies with soft substrate skin surrogates

Water swellable crosslinked polymers are widely used in oil-in-water emulsions for the healthcare and cosmetic industries due to their thickening properties. In this study, we investigate the rheological and lubrication behavior of a microgel-forming polymer, a lightly-crosslinked hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acid (HMPAA), in an aqueous medium and in an emulsion. Hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, a class of phospholipids, is used as a surfactant in the emulsions composed of different oil content. Rheological behavior is probed both in the linear and non-linear regimes using small strain amplitude and large amplitude oscillatory shear (LAOS) experiments, respectively. We observe all systems to exhibit gel-like behavior with the elastic modulus (G') dominating and being frequency independent. Lissajous-Bowditch plots and nonlinear parameters obtained under large deformation show that the emulsions can resist greater deformations with smaller increase in the viscous dissipation when compared to a HMPAA gel. For tribology experiments, friction curves in a range of entrainment speeds are examined using substrates to mimic the skin surface (PDMS and Bioskin®). The role of polymer hydrophobicity on the different substrates are also explored by comparing the behavior of HMPAA to that of its hydrophilic analog, a polyacrylic acid highly crosslinked. We find the friction coefficient to be dependent on the hydrophobicity of the substrate and the polymer as well as the substrate roughness. These results taken together provide insights in the formulation of skincare products with efficient lubrication properties for different skin characteristics.

Microbial Biosurfactants in Cosmetic and Personal Skincare Pharmaceutical Formulations

Cosmetic and personal care products are globally used and often applied directly on the human skin. According to a recent survey in Europe, the market value of cosmetic and personal care products in Western Europe reached about 84 billion euros in 2018 and are predicted to increase by approximately 6% by the end of 2020. With these significant sums of money spent annually on cosmetic and personal care products, along with chemical surfactants being the main ingredient in a number of their formulations, of which many have been reported to have the potential to cause detrimental effects such as allergic reactions and skin irritations to the human skin; hence, the need for the replacement of chemical surfactants with other compounds that would have less or no negative effects on skin health. Biosurfactants (surfactants of biological origin) have exhibited great potential such as lower toxicity, skin compatibility, protection and surface moisturizing effects which are key components for an effective skincare routine. This review discusses the antimicrobial, skin surface moisturizing and low toxicity properties of glycolipid and lipopeptide biosurfactants which could make them suitable substitutes for chemical surfactants in current cosmetic and personal skincare pharmaceutical formulations. Finally, we discuss some challenges and possible solutions for biosurfactant applications.

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to determine the efficacy and safety of lactoferrin with vitamin E and zinc as an oral therapy for mild to moderate acne vulgaris

Lactoferrin is an iron-binding milk-derived protein that has shown antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects in vitro and in vivo. The objective of this study was to determine the efficacy and safety of lactoferrin, combined with vitamin E and zinc, for mild to moderate acne vulgaris. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 168 subjects aged 13-40 years old were randomly assigned to take either a capsule formulation containing lactoferrin with vitamin E and zinc or placebo twice a day for 3 months. The primary outcome measure was a reduction in the number of acne lesions compared to placebo. A total of 164 subjects completed the study per protocol. The lactoferrin group (n = 82) showed a significant median percent reduction in total lesions as early as 2 weeks (14.5%, P = 0.0120), with the maximum reduction occurring at week 10 (28.5%, P < 0.0001) compared to placebo group (n = 82). Maximum reduction in comedones (32.5%, P < 0.0001) and inflammatory lesions (44%, P < 0.0001) was also seen at week 10 compared to placebo. Sebum scores were improved by week 12. No adverse events were observed during the trial. A twice daily regimen of lactoferrin with vitamin E and zinc significantly reduced acne lesions in people with mild to moderate acne vulgaris.