Molecular analysis of elastic properties of the stratum corneum by solid-state 13C-nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy

Cryogenic probe technology enables multidimensional solid-state NMR of the stratum corneum without isotope labeling

Solid-state NMR has great potential for investigating molecular structure, dynamics, and organization of the stratum corneum, the outer 10-20 μm of the skin, but is hampered by the unfeasibility of isotope labelling as generally required to reach sufficient signal-to-noise ratio for the more informative multidimensional NMR techniques. In this preliminary study of pig stratum corneum at 35 °C and water-free conditions, we demonstrate that cryogenic probe technology offers sufficient signal boost to observe previously undetectable minor resonances that can be uniquely assigned to fluid cholesterol, ceramides, and triacylglycerols, as well as enables 1H-1H spin diffusion monitored by 2D 1H-13C HETCOR to estimate 1-100 nm distances between specific atomic sites on proteins and lipids. The new capabilities open up for future multidimensional solid-state NMR studies to answer long-standing questions about partitioning of additives, such as pharmaceutically active substances, between solid and liquid domains within the protein and lipid phases in the stratum corneum and the lipids of the sebum.

Delivery of small hydrophilic molecules across the stratum corneum: Identification of model systems and parameters to study topical delivery of free amino acids

Free amino acids (FAAs) constitute the largest component (∼40 %) of the so-called natural moisturizing factors of the skin. Their level declines in dry skin conditions and one strategy to overcome this problem may involve the topical delivery of FAAs through appropriate strategy. The objective of the present study was therefore to identify alternative skin models and study the corneocyte-water partition coefficients (KCOR/W) and permeation coefficient (KP) of 18 FAAs. The KCOR/W was studied using standard protocols and the permeation studies were conducted using Franz diffusion cell. The results indicate that the FAAs have high partitioning behavior to the corneocytes. The KCOR/W values of the human COR and that of pig ear skin were better correlated with each other than that of keratin isolated from chicken feathers. The presence of lipid in the stratum corneum (SC), initial concentration of the FAAs, and permeation enhancers affect the KCOR/W. The FAAs have low permeation into the SC which suggests the need for permeation enhancers in designing dosage form containing these compounds. Even though the investigated mathematical models show good prediction of the Kp values, better prediction could be obtained by considering factors such as the possible entrapment of the FAAs by the CORs.

Topically Applied Therapies for the Treatment of Skin Disease: Past, Present, and Future

The purpose of this review is to summarize essential biological, pharmaceutical, and clinical aspects in the field of topically applied medicines that may help scientists when trying to develop new topical medicines. After a brief history of topical drug delivery, a review of the structure and function of the skin and routes of drug absorption and their limitations is provided. The most prevalent diseases and current topical treatment approaches are then detailed, the organization of which reflects the key disease categories of autoimmune and inflammatory diseases, microbial infections, skin cancers, and genetic skin diseases. The complexity of topical product development through to large-scale manufacturing along with recommended risk mitigation approaches are then highlighted. As such topical treatments are applied externally, patient preferences along with the challenges they invoke are then described, and finally the future of this field of drug delivery is discussed, with an emphasis on areas that are more likely to yield significant improvements over the topical medicines in current use or would expand the range of medicines and diseases treatable by this route of administration. SIGNIFICANCE STATEMENT: This review of the key aspects of the skin and its associated diseases and current treatments along with the intricacies of topical formulation development should be helpful in making judicious decisions about the development of new or improved topical medicines. These aspects include the choices of the active ingredients, formulations, the target patient population's preferences, limitations, and the future with regard to new skin diseases and topical medicine approaches.

Soap or alcohol-based products? The effect of hand hygiene on skin characteristics during the COVID-19 pandemic

BACKGROUND

Different strategies for hand skin hygiene have been used to prevent the spread of SARS-CoV-2. However, frequent hand sanitization has been associated with skin damage. The present study aimed to evaluate hand hygiene habits during the COVID-19 pandemic and the effect of the repetitive use of soap or alcohol-based products on skin characteristics.

METHODS

We conducted a survey regards hand hygiene habits acquired during the COVID-19 pandemic. Also, we performed cutometry in a cohort of individuals who cleansed their volar forearms every 30 min, during 4 h, using soap or alcohol-based products.

RESULTS

We received 138 responses from people with medium-high educational level who reported a 2.5-time increase in the frequency of hand cleansing (p < 0.0001) that resulted in skin damage. An in vivo analysis of skin moisture and elasticity was also performed among 19 health workers and students. In general, skin moisture decreased with every cleansing, mainly after 2 h of washing with soap (p < 0.01), while skin elasticity only reduced after 4 h of treatment (p < 0.05). Alcohol-based solution or alcohol-based gel (70% ethanol, both) did not affect skin moisture or elasticity during testing.

CONCLUSION

It is known that the excessive use of soap or alcohol-based products causes dermatological issues. The present study demonstrates that non-medicated soap significantly affects skin moisture and elasticity, probably because the soap removes the hydrolipidic protective barrier, favoring transepidermal water loss, where the lack of the appropriate stratum corneum hydration also affects skin elasticity, mainly associated with changes in epidermal structure.

Skin Microbiome, Metabolome and Skin Phenome, from the Perspectives of Skin as an Ecosystem

Skin is a complex ecosystem colonized by millions of microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, and viruses. Skin microbiota is believed to exert critical functions in maintaining host skin health. Profiling the structure of skin microbial community is the first step to overview the ecosystem. However, the community composition is highly individualized and extremely complex. To explore the fundamental factors driving the complexity of the ecosystem, namely the selection pressures, we review the present studies on skin microbiome from the perspectives of ecology. This review summarizes the following: (1) the composition of substances/nutrients in the cutaneous ecological environment that are derived from the host and the environment, highlighting their proposed function on skin microbiota; (2) the features of dominant skin commensals to occupy ecological niches, through self-adaptation and microbe-microbe interactions; (3) how skin microbes, by their structures or bioactive molecules, reshape host skin phenotypes, including skin immunity, maintenance of skin physiology such as pH and hydration, ultraviolet (UV) protection, odor production, and wound healing. This review aims to re-examine the host-microbe interactions from the ecological perspectives and hopefully to give new inspiration to this field.

The use of urea for skin barrier correction

The review summarizes information about the main causes and pathogenesis of xerosis cutis as one of the conditions indicating a violation of the epidermal barrier. Xerosis cutis is a clinical sign of a decrease in the amount and/or quality of lipids and/or hydrophilic substances in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The modern approach to the treatment of dermatoses accompanied by violations of the epidermal barrier includes basic moisturizers. Urea not only moisturizes the skin. It is involved in the regulation of barrier function and antimicrobial protection. It is a low-molecular regulator of protein synthesis in keratinocytes, such as filaggrin, loricrin, involucrin and transglutaminase 1, cathelicidin, beta-defensin-2, water and urea carrier proteins into the cell, as well as proteins that promote the synthesis of intercellular matrix lipids. The main dermatotropic pharmacological effects of urea (hydration of the epidermis, strengthening of the barrier function of the skin, keratolytic effect, increased penetration of drugs into the skin) have been used in dermatological practice for many years. External agents with urea are used to treat skin diseases accompanied by dryness and excessive keratinization, to correct the deformation of nail plates of various genesis, to facilitate the local penetration of medicines. The use of topical UrocrEM5, UrocrEM10, Uroderm ointments containing 5%, 10% and 30% urea, respectively, is effective and safe.

Development and Validation of a Simple, Selective, and Accurate Reversed-Phase Liquid Chromatographic Method with Diode Array Detection (RP-HPLC/DAD) for the Simultaneous Analysis of 18 Free Amino Acids in Topical Formulations

Even though there are reported methods for the quantification of free amino acids (FAAs) in biological products, no work has been done on the analysis of these substances in formulations. Moreover, further research is required as the reported methods do not fulfill analytical method requirements. The objective of this study was, therefore, to develop and validate a rapid, reliable, and appropriate RP-HPLC/DAD method for the simultaneous determination of 18 FAAs (l-Ala, l-Arg, l-Asn, l-Asp, l-Gln, l-Glu, l-Gly, l-His, l-Ile, l-Lue, l-Lys, l-Met, l-Orn, l-Phe, l-Pro, l-Ser, l-Thr, and l-Val) in topical formulations. After appropriate method development, the technique was validated for selectivity, linearity and range, limit of detection, limit of quantification, precision, and accuracy. The samples were derivatized with 9-fluorenylmethyl chloroformate (Fmoc-Cl). Chromatographic separation was performed on InfinityLab Poroshell 120 E.C 18 (3 × 50) mm, 2.7 μm column at 25 °C. The mobile phase consisting of water and acetonitrile adjusted to appropriate pH was pumped in gradient mode at a flow rate of 0.7 mL/min. Ten microliters were injected and analyte detection was conducted using a DAD. The results indicate that the method was selective for these FAAs. It was linear over the concentration range of 5–80 µM with a correlation coefficient greater than 0.995. Moreover, it was sensitive, precise, accurate, and robust. All the reported drawbacks of RP-HPLC-based analysis of FAAs were resolved, and hence, this new method can be considered appropriate for the analysis of these FAAs in topical formulations.

Mechanisms and Implications of Bacterial Invasion across the Human Skin Barrier

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with a deficiency of skin lipids, increased populations of Staphylococcus aureus in the microbiome, and structural defects in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, as it is unclear whether observed changes are the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. Previous studies have shown that S. aureus is capable of permeating across isolated human SC tissue when lipids are depleted to levels consistent with AD conditions. In this study, we expand upon this discovery to determine the mechanisms and implications of bacterial penetration into the SC barrier. Specifically, we establish if bacteria are permeating intercellularly or employing a combination of both inter- and intracellular travel. The mechanical implications of bacterial invasion, lipid depletion, and media immersion are also evaluated using a newly developed, physiologically relevant, temperature-controlled drip chamber. Results reveal for the first time that S. aureus can be internalized by corneocytes, indicating transcellular movement through the tissue during permeation, consistent with previous theoretical models. S. aureus also degrades the mechanical integrity of human SC, particularly when the tissue is partially depleted of lipids. These observed mechanical changes are likely the cause of broken or ruptured tissue seen as exudative lesions in AD flares. This work further highlights the necessity of lipids in skin microbial barrier function.

IMPORTANCE Millions of people suffer from the chronic inflammatory skin disease atopic dermatitis (AD), whose symptoms are associated with a deficiency of skin lipids that exhibit antimicrobial functions and increased populations of the opportunistic pathogen Staphylococcus aureus. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, and it remains unclear if these observed changes are merely the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. In this article, we demonstrate the necessity of skin lipids in preventing S. aureus from penetrating the outermost barrier of human skin, thereby causing a degradation in tissue integrity. This bacterial permeation into the viable epidermis could act as an inflammatory trigger of the disease. When coupled with delipidated AD tissue conditions, bacterial permeation can also explain increased tissue fragility, potentially causing lesion formation in AD patients that results in further enhancing bacterial permeability across the stratum corneum and the development of chronic conditions.

The effects of glycols on molecular mobility, structure, and permeability in stratum corneum

The skin provides an attractive alternative to the conventional drug administration routes. Still, it comes with challenges as the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), provides an efficient barrier against permeation of most compounds. One way to overcome the skin barrier is to apply chemical permeation enhancers, which can modify the SC structure. In this paper, we investigated the molecular effect of three different types of glycols in SC: dipropylene glycol (diPG), propylene glycol (PG), and butylene glycol (BG). The aim is to understand how these molecules influence the molecular mobility and structure of the SC components, and to relate the molecular effects to the efficiency of these molecules as permeation enhancers. We used complementary experimental techniques, including natural abundance ¹³C NMR spectroscopy and wide-angle X-ray diffraction to characterize the molecular consequences of these compounds at different doses in SC at 97% RH humidity and 32 °C. In addition, we study the permeation enhancing effects of the same glycols in comparable conditions using Raman spectroscopy. Based on the results from NMR, we conclude that all three glycols cause increased mobility in SC lipids, and that the addition of glycols has an effect on the keratin filaments in similar manner as Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The highest mobility of both lipids and amino acids can be reached with BG, which is followed by PG. It is also shown that one reaches an apparent saturation level for all three chemicals in SC, after which increased addition of the compound does not lead to further increase in the mobility of SC lipids or protein components. The examination with Raman mapping show that BG and PG give a significant permeation enhancement as compared to SC without any added glycol at corresponding conditions. Finally, we observe a non-monotonic response in permeation enhancement with respect to the concentration of glycols, where the highest concentration does not give the highest permeation. This is explained by the dehydration effects at highest glycol concentrations. In summary, we find a good correlation between the molecular effects of glycols on the SC lipid and protein mobility, and macroscopic permeation enhances of the same molecules.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.

Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.

Free amino acid contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species: a search for alternative natural free amino acid sources for cosmeceutical applications

Free amino acids (FAAs), the major constituents of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), are very important for maintaining the moisture balance of human skin and their deficiency results in dry skin conditions. There is a great interest in the identification and use of nature-based sources of these molecules for such cosmeceutical applications. The objective of the present study was, therefore, to investigate the FAA contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species; and select the best sources so as to use them for the stated purpose. About 59 different plant species and oyster mushroom were included in the study and the concentrations of 27 FAAs were analyzed. Each sample was collected, lyophilized, extracted using aqueous solvent, derivatized with Fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl chloride (Fmoc-Cl) prior to solid-phase extraction and quantified using Liquid Chromatography Electrospray Ionization Tandem Mass Spectrometric (LC-ESI-MS/MS) system. All the 27 FAAs were detected in most of the samples. The dominant FAAs that are part of the NMF were found at sufficiently high concentration in the mushroom and some of the plants. This indicates that FAAs that could be included in the preparations for the management of dry skin condition can be obtained from a single natural resource and the use of these resources for the specified purpose have both economic and therapeutic advantage in addition to fulfilling customer needs.

Corneocytes: Relationship between Structural and Biomechanical Properties

BACKGROUND

Skin is the interface between an organism and the external environment, and hence the stratum corneum (SC) is the first to withstand mechanical insults that, in certain conditions, may lead to integrity loss and the development of pressure ulcers. The SC comprises corneocytes, which are vital elements to its barrier function. These cells are differentiated dead keratinocytes, without organelles, composed of a cornified envelope and a keratin-filled interior, and connected by corneodesmosomes (CDs).

SUMMARY

The current review focusses on the relationship between the morphological, structural, and topographical features of corneocytes and their mechanical properties, to understand how they assist the SC in maintaining skin integrity and in responding to mechanical insults. Key Messages: Corneocytes create distinct regions in the SC: the inner SC is characterized by immature cells with a fragile cornified envelope and a uniform distribution of CDs; the upper SC has resilient cornified envelopes and a honeycomb distribution of CDs, with a greater surface area and a smaller thickness than cells from the inner layer. The literature indicates that this upward maturation process is one of the most important steps in the mechanical resistance and barrier function of the SC. The morphology of these cells is dependent on the body site: the surface area in non-exposed skin is about 1,000-1,200 μm2, while for exposed skin, for example, the cheek and forehead, is about 700-800 μm2. Corneocytes are stiff cells compared to other cellular types, for example, the Young's modulus of muscle and fibroblast cells is typically a few kPa, while that of corneocytes is reported to be about hundreds of MPa. Moreover, these skin cells have 2 distinct mechanical regions: the cornified envelope (100-250 MPa) and the keratin matrix (250-500 MPa).

Fourier transform infrared absorption (FTIR) on dry stratum corneum, corneocyte-lipid interfaces: experimental and vibrational spectroscopy calculations

Many questions concerning the biophysical and physiological properties of skin are still open. Skin aging, permeability, dermal absorption, hydration, and drug transdermal delivery, are few examples of processes with unveiled underlying mechanisms. In this work, it is presented a comparison between Fourier transform infrared absorption (FTIR) of dry stratum corneum and stratum corneum under lipase action supported by first-principles density functional vibrational calculations. The molecular structure of stratum corneum was modeled by an archetype of its hygroscopic proteic portion inside the corneocytes, the natural moisturizing factor, coupled to glycerol molecules which represent the lipid fraction of stratum corneum. Vibrational spectra were calculated and compared to experimental data obtained on the animal model of stratum corneum. The experimental results indicated prominent spectral differences between dry and lipase-treated stratum corneum. Principal components analysis and hyerarchical clustering indicated that 1200, 1650, and 1695 cm^-1 bands are the most influential on the discrimination. It is noticed that bands in the fingerprint region (800-1800 cm^-1) were correctly assigned. Moreover, the calculations revealed the existence of two coupled vibration between the hydroxyl group of lipid and methylene (1120 and 1160 cm^-1), which are of special interest since they probe the lipid-amino acid coupling. The model was also able to predict the shear modulus of dry stratum corneum in excellent agreement with the reported values from the literature. Other physical/chemical properties could be calculated exploring the chemical accuracy and molecular resolution of this model. Research in dermatology, cosmetology, and biomedical engineering in the specific topics of drug delivery and/or mechanical properties of skin are examples of fields that would potentially take advantage of this approach.

Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

OBJECTIVE

Polyols are moisturizers used in cosmetics. Using X-ray diffraction, we studied the moisturizingmechanism of polyol solutions in the stratum corneum (SC). We examined whether glycerol disrupts the ordered hydrocarbon chain packing structure in isolated SC, as previously proposed in an SC lipid model.

METHODS

The SC samples were prepared by treatment with water and aqueous solutions of glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol. To examine the differences in the water-retention efficiency of polyols, using a solution cell, we performed dynamic X-ray diffraction to analyse the structural changes that occurred during water removal from the hydrated samples by a stream of dry nitrogen gas. We focused on two structures, the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure in the intercellular lipids and the soft keratin in the corneocytes where most of the water is stored.

RESULTS

The spacing formed by the soft keratin in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of water and diglycerol solution decreased rapidly by water removal. In contrast, it decreased gradually in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of glycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, indicating that the glycerol-containing solutions maintained the hydrated state of the corneocytes for longer. Furthermore, the characteristic change of the spacing in the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure over time was observed during the drying process. The hydrated state was maintained longer, in water, followed by glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, in increasing order. This is the first study to report such characteristic properties that could be indicators of the capacity of the SC to regulate water.

CONCLUSION

The dynamic X-ray diffraction experiment on the structure of the soft keratin and the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure during the drying of the hydrated SC provides an insight into the moisturizing mechanism of the polyol solutions in the SC. The results show that the glycerol/diglycerol solution functions as an effective SC moisturizer at the molecular level. Further, it was confirmed that the behaviour of glycerol in the isolated SC varies from that proposed in the SC lipid model, wherein glycerol was proposed to prevent the formation of a regular hydrocarbon chain packing structure.

Effects of lactic acid on the flexibility of the stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

Lactic acid increases the flexibility of the stratum corneum by linking directly to keratin without water. However, another study reported the involvement of water. This study aimed to clarify how lactic acid contributes to the flexibility of the stratum corneum (SC) of the face.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A tactile sensor was used to measure the change in shared frequency (Δf) in the cheeks of 88 women of various ages. Amounts of water and lactic acid in the SC were measured during all four seasons, and correlations with Δf evaluated.

RESULTS

Lactic acid and water levels in the SC were not correlated in any season. In the younger subjects only, the lactic acid content correlated with Δf in spring (when at its highest level in the SC), whereas the water content correlated with Δf in summer and autumn (when the water content was high).

CONCLUSIONS

The overall lack of correlations between lactic acid and water content across all ages and seasons suggested that each contributes independently to the flexibility of the SC and that lactic acid softens the SC without water.

Amino acids disrupt calcium-dependent adhesion of stratum corneum

In the stratum corneum, the intercellular junction made up of cadherin proteins provides the structural integrity of the framework. Ca2+ ions are known to play a key role in maintaining this junction. In this study, we hypothesized that Ca2+ chelation in stratum corneum will weaken the bond of the tissue and consequently promote exfoliation. Amino acids, ubiquitously existing as metabolites and building blocks of the body, have the molecular property to chelate Ca2+ ions. In the current study, we verified the Ca2+ chelating property of amino acids and demonstrated that amino acids can interfere with the interaction of cadherins, separate stratum corneum into pieces, and thereby stimulate the exfoliation process of skin. These results validate the importance of Ca2+ ion in the skin exfoliation process. Importantly, our findings indicate that amino acids may be efficiently used for improving skin conditions.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.

Decrease of superficial serine and lactate in the stratum corneum due to repetitive frictional trauma

BACKGROUND

Repetitive frictional trauma can be induced in daily and occupational activities, such as daily ablutions with washcloths. The influence of frictional trauma on the skin barrier function, especially in the perspective of the components of stratum corneum (SC), has not yet been studied in detail. Raman spectroscopy is a noninvasive optical technique based on inelastic light scattering that is capable of measuring several components in the skin. In this study, we used Raman spectroscopy to investigate the change in natural moisturizing factor (NMF) components in the SC following repetitive physical friction.

METHODS

Six healthy volunteers, who were included in the study after obtaining an informed consent, performed repetitive washing with soap using nylon towels on the forearm twice a day for 2 weeks and used Raman spectroscopy to investigate the change in NMF components in the SC.

RESULTS

Compared with the control, which was washed with soap at the same frequency on the opposite forearm, a significant increase in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a decrease in NMF, serine, and total lactate, responsible for maintenance the SC hydration and structuring and maintaining the epidermal barrier function, in the SC were found.

CONCLUSIONS

Increased TEWL and decreased NMF are considered as an etiology of atopic dermatitis (AD); therefore, our findings provide evidence that daily activities with repetitive frictional trauma may be related to the predisposition of AD.

Coffee polyphenols extracted from green coffee beans improve skin properties and microcirculatory function

Coffee polyphenols (CPPs), including chlorogenic acid, exert various physiological activities. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of CPPs on skin properties and microcirculatory function in humans. In this double-blind, placebo-controlled study, 49 female subjects with mildly xerotic skin received either a test beverage containing CPPs (270 mg/100 mL/day) or a placebo beverage for 8 weeks. The ingestion of CPPs significantly lowered the clinical scores for skin dryness, decreased transepidermal water loss, skin surface pH, and increased stratum corneum hydration and the responsiveness of skin blood flow during local warming. Moreover, the amounts of free fatty acids and lactic acid in the stratum corneum significantly increased after the ingestion of CPPs. These results suggest that an 8-week intake of CPPs improve skin permeability barrier function and hydration, with a concomitant improvement in microcirculatory function, leading to efficacy in the alleviation of mildly xerotic skin.

Sex-related chemical differences in keratin from fingernail plates: a solid-state carbon-13 NMR study

The carbon-13 solid-state NMR reveals chemical differences in fingernail keratin between young, healthy males and females.

Design, synthesis and characterization of linear unnatural amino acids for skin moisturization

OBJECTIVES

This work aimed to design, synthesize and characterize replacement natural moisturizing factor (NMF) composed of modified hygroscopic linear amino acids to pre-empt or repair skin barrier dysfunction.

METHODS

Following synthesis and characterization, thermo-gravimetric analysis and quantum mechanics molecular modelling quantified and depicted water binding to the new compounds. Deliquescence relative humidity demonstrated the water-scavenging ability of the compounds, whereas snake skin moisturizing studies showed they increased water uptake into snake skin.

RESULTS

From thermal analysis, N-hydroxyglycine showed greatest water-holding capacity followed by N-hydroxyserine, l-homoserine and α-hydroxyglycine; coupled with quantum mechanics molecular modelling, between 8 and 12 molecules of water could associate with each molecule of either N-hydroxyglycine, N-hydroxyserine or l-homoserine. All of our modified amino acids were efficacious and induced similar or greater water uptake compared with the established moisturizing compounds hyaluronic acid, glycerine and urea in snake skin. Incorporated at 10% in Oilatum, N-hydroxyserine induced >200% greater moisture uptake into dry snake skin compared to treatment with water alone, with efficacy related to the molecule structure and ability to bind to 12 water molecules. Oilatum cream spiked with all our unnatural amino acid hydrotropes increased water uptake into snake skin compared with Oilatum alone. The compound series was designed to elucidate some structure - efficacy relationships. Amino acid chirality did not affect the water-holding capacity but did affect uptake into skin. Compounds with high melting points and bond energies tended to decrease water-holding capacity. With isosteric replacement, the more electronegative atoms gave greater water-holding capacities.

CONCLUSIONS

This work demonstrates the potential of unnatural amino acid hydrotropes as skin moisturizers and has developed some predictive 'rules' for further design and refinement of chemical structures.

Effect of monoglycerides and fatty acids on a ceramide bilayer

Monoglycerides and unsaturated fatty acids, naturally present in trace amounts in the stratum corneum (top layer of skin) lipid matrix, are commonly used in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and health care formulations. However, a detailed molecular understanding of how the oil additives get incorporated into the skin lipids from topical application and, once incorporated, how they affect the properties and integrity of the lipid matrix remains unexplored. Using ceramide 2 bilayers as skin lipid surrogates, we use a series of molecular dynamics simulations with six different natural oil ingredients at multiple concentrations to investigate the effect of the oils on the properties and stability of the bilayers. The six oils: monoolein, monostearin, monoelaidin, oleic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid - all having the same length of the alkyl chain, C18, but a varying degree of saturation, allow us to systematically address the effect of unsaturation in the additives. Our results show that at low oil concentration (∼5%) the mixed bilayers containing any of the oils and ceramide 2 (CER2) become more rigid than pure CER2 bilayers due to more efficient lipid packing. Better packing also results in the formation of larger numbers of hydrogen bonds between the lipids, which occurs at the expense of the hydrogen bonds between lipids and water. The mixed bilayers with saturated or trans-unsaturated oils remain stable over the whole range of oil concentration. In contrast, the presence of the oils with at least one cis-double bond leads to bilayer instability and complete loss of bilayer structure at the oil content of about 50-65%. Two cis-double bonds in the lipid tail induce bilayer disruption at even lower concentration (∼30%). The mixed bilayers remain in the gel phase (without melting to a fluid phase) until the phase transition to a non-bilayer phase occurs. We also demonstrate that the stability of the bilayer strongly correlates with the order parameter of the lipid tails.

Methods for preclinical assessment of antipruritic agents and itch mechanisms independent of mast-cell histamine

Itch is a sensation that provokes a desire to scratch. Mast-cell histamine was thought to be a key itch mediator. However, histamine and mast-cell degranulation were reported not to elicit scratching in animals. It was difficult to investigate the pathophysiology of itching and to evaluate the antipruritic efficacy of chemical agents in the early 1990 s. We showed that hind-paw scratching and biting were elicited by stimulation with pruritogenic agents in mice. Those results demonstrated for the first time that cutaneous itching could be evaluated behaviorally in animals. We established various animal models of pathological itch of the skin (dry skin, mosquito allergy, surfactant-induced pruritus, and herpes zoster) and mucus membranes (pollen allergy). Mast-cell histamine did not play a key role in itching in any animal model examined except for the pollen allergy model. Histamine is not an exclusive itch mediator of mast cells; tryptase and leukotriene B4 released from mast cells also act as itch mediators. Epidermal keratinocytes release several itch mediators, such as leukotriene B4, sphingosylphosphorylcholine, thromboxane A2, nociceptin, nitric oxide, and histamine, which may play important roles in pathological itching. Appropriate animal models of pathological itching are needed for pharmacological evaluation of the antipruritic efficacy of chemical agents.

Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin processing enzymes, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte phenotypes and plasmin activities in non-sun-exposed and sun-exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities

BACKGROUND

Knowledge of the ethnic differences and effects of photodamage on the relative amounts of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) together with filaggrin processing enzymes in facial stratum corneum is limited. Our aim was to characterize the activities of calpain-1 (C-1), bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and the levels of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) as a marker for total NMF levels and to relate them to plasmin activities and corneocyte maturation.

METHODS

Enzyme activities, PCA levels and corneocyte maturation were determined from facial tape strippings of photoexposed cheek and photoprotected post-auricular areas (PA) of healthy Caucasian (C), Black African (BA) and albino African (AA) female subjects living in South Africa.

RESULTS

PCA concentration levels were of the order AA > BA > C subjects, and the highest activities of BH were present in the AA subjects. BH activities were greater on the photoexposed sites for the BA and C subjects, but they were only numerically elevated in the AA subjects. Photoprotected sites had an increase in C-1 activity in pigmented groups (C and BA), whereas in the AA subjects, the opposite was measured. Plasmin activities were greater on the cheek compared with the PA site for the AA and C subjects, but the activity was low in the BA subjects. In both test sites, the AA, but not the BA and C subjects, had smaller, parakeratotic and less mature corneocytes.

CONCLUSION

Variation in PCA levels has been found for different ethnic groups in this study (AA > BA > C subjects). The values in the AA subjects are surprising as one might expect that the lack of pigmentation, and thereby increased photodamage, might lead to lower levels. Increased BH, but not C-1 activity, was observed in the AA subjects indicating that BH is associated with PCA production to a greater extent. Surprisingly, corneocyte maturation is still impaired with elevated PCA levels in AA subjects. The higher levels of plasmin and BH activities on the cheeks, especially for AA and C subjects, suggest that they can be used as markers for epidermal photodamage.

Understanding age-induced alterations to the biomechanical barrier function of human stratum corneum

BACKGROUND

The appearance and function of human skin are dramatically altered with aging, resulting in higher rates of severe xerosis and other skin complaints. The outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), is responsible for the biomechanical barrier function of skin and is also adversely transformed with age. With age the keratin filaments within the corneocytes are prone to crosslinking, the amount of intercellular lipids decreases resulting in fewer lipid bilayers, and the rate of corneocyte turnover decreases.

OBJECTIVES

The effect of these structural changes on the mechanical properties of the SC has not been determined. Here we determine how several aspects of the SC's mechanical properties are dramatically degraded with age.

METHODS

We performed a range of biomechanical experiments, including micro-tension, bulge, double cantilever beam, and substrate curvature testing on abdominal stratum corneum from cadaveric female donors ranging in age from 29 to 93 years old.

RESULTS

We found that the SC stiffens with age, indicating that the keratin fibers stiffen, similarly to collagen fibers in the dermis. The cellular cohesion also increases with age, a result of the altered intercellular lipid structure. The kinetics of water movement through the SC is also decreased.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that the combination of structural and mechanical property changes that occur with age are quite significant and may contribute to the prevalence of skin disorders among the elderly.

Complete Structure of an Epithelial Keratin Dimer: Implications for Intermediate Filament Assembly

Keratins are cytoskeletal proteins that hierarchically arrange into filaments, starting with the dimer sub-unit. They are integral to the structural support of cells, in skin, hair and nails. In skin, keratin is thought to play a critical role in conferring the barrier properties and elasticity of skin. In general, the keratin dimer is broadly described by a tri-domain structure: a head, a central rod and a tail. As yet, no atomistic-scale picture of the entire dimer structure exists; this information is pivotal for establishing molecular-level connections between structure and function in intermediate filament proteins. The roles of the head and tail domains in facilitating keratin filament assembly and function remain as open questions. To address these, we report results of molecular dynamics simulations of the entire epithelial human K1/K10 keratin dimer. Our findings comprise: (1) the first three-dimensional structural models of the complete dimer unit, comprising of the head, rod and tail domains; (2) new insights into the chirality of the rod-domain twist gained from analysis of the full domain structure; (3) evidence for tri-subdomain partitioning in the head and tail domains; and, (4) identification of the residue characteristics that mediate non-covalent contact between the chains in the dimer. Our findings are immediately applicable to other epithelial keratins, such as K8/K18 and K5/K14, and to intermediate filament proteins in general.

NMR spectroscopy reveals the presence and association of lipids and keratin in adhesive gecko setae

Lipid and protein aggregates are one of the fundamental materials of biological systems. Examples include cell membranes, insect cuticle, vertebrate epidermis, feathers, hair and adhesive structures known as ‘setae’ on gecko toes. Until recently gecko setae were assumed to be composed entirely of keratin, but analysis of footprints left behind by geckos walking on surfaces revealed that setae include various kinds of lipids. However, the arrangement and molecular-level behavior of lipids and keratin in the setae is still not known. In the present study we demonstrate, for the first time, the use of Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) spectroscopy techniques to confirm the presence of lipids and investigate their association with keratin in ‘pristine' sheds, or natural molts of the adhesive toe pad and non-adhesive regions of the skin. Analysis was also carried on the sheds after they were ‘delipidized’ to remove surface lipids. Our results show a distribution of similar lipids in both the skin and toe shed but with different dynamics at a molecular level. The present study can help us understand the gecko system both biologically and for design of synthetic adhesives, but the findings may be relevant to the characteristics of lipid-protein interactions in other biological systems.

The relationship between water loss, mechanical stress, and molecular structure of human stratum corneum ex vivo

Proper hydration of the stratum corneum (SC) is important for maintaining skin's vital functions. Water loss causes development of drying stresses, which can be perceived as 'tightness', and plays an important role in dry skin damage processes. However, molecular structure modifications arising from water loss and the subsequent development of stress has not been established. We investigated the drying stress mechanism by studying, ex vivo, the behaviors of the SC components during water desorption from initially fully hydrated samples using Raman spectroscopy. Simultaneously, we measure the SC mechanical stress with a substrate curvature instrument. Very good correlations of water loss to the mechanical stress of the stratum corneum were obtained, and the latter was found to depend mainly on the unbound water fraction. In addition to that, the water loss is accompanied with an increase of lipids matrix compactness characterized by lower chain freedom, while protein structure showed an increase in amount of α-helices, a decline in α-sheets, and an increase in folding in the tertiary structure of keratin. The drying process of SC involves a complex interplay of water binding, molecular modifications, and mechanical stress. This article provides a better understanding of the molecular mechanism associated to SC mechanics.

Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels or caspase-14 expression in the corneocytes of lesional skin correlates with clinical severity, skin barrier function and lesional inflammation in atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Dry skin in atopic dermatitis (AD) mainly results from barrier impairment due to deficiency of ceramide and natural moisturizing factors including pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) in stratum corneum (SC). Caspase-14 cleaves filaggrin monomers to free amino acids and their derivatives such as PCA, contributing natural moisturizing factors. Cytokines in the corneocytes represent cutaneous inflammation severity of AD patients.

OBJECT

To analyze the correlations of PCA, caspase-14 and cytokines in corneocytes with clinical severity, barrier function and skin inflammation, those were quantitated.

METHODS

A total of 73 persons were enrolled: 21 patients with mild AD, 21 with moderate-to-severe AD, 13 with X-linked ichthyosis (XLI) as a negative control for filaggrin gene (FLG) mutation, and 18 healthy controls. Skin barrier functions such as basal transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum (SC) hydration and skin surface pH were measured. To collect corneocytes, stripping with D-squame discs was done on lesional and non-lesional skin. And then PCA was isolated from D-squame discs and quantitated by LC-MS/MS. Cytokine assays were performed.

RESULTS

The quantity of PCA and caspase-14 was decreased in inflammatory lesions compared to non-lesion in AD patients. And the amounts of PCA and caspase-14 in the lesion of AD patients correlated with clinical severity as determined by eczema area and severity index score and the skin barrier functions. Also, the expressions of TNF-α and IL-13 inversely correlated with PCA quantity.

CONCLUSION

The quantity of PCA or caspase-14 in the corneocytes of the lesional skin of AD patients reflects the clinical severity, skin barrier function and the degree of lesional inflammation.

Self-consistent field theory for the interactions between keratin intermediate filaments

Background

Keratins are important structural proteins found in skin, hair and nails. Keratin Intermediate Filaments are major components of corneocytes, nonviable horny cells of the Stratum Corneum, the outermost layer of skin. It is considered that interactions between unstructured domains of Keratin Intermediate Filaments are the key factor in maintaining the elasticity of the skin.

Results

We have developed a model for the interactions between keratin intermediate filaments based on self-consistent field theory. The intermediate filaments are represented by charged surfaces, and the disordered terminal domains of the keratins are represented by charged heteropolymers grafted to these surfaces. We estimate the system is close to a charge compensation point where the heteropolymer grafting density is matched to the surface charge density. Using a protein model with amino acid resolution for the terminal domains, we find that the terminal chains can mediate a weak attraction between the keratin surfaces. The origin of the attraction is a combination of bridging and electrostatics. The attraction disappears when the system moves away from the charge compensation point, or when excess small ions and/or NMF-representing free amino acids are added.

Conclusions

These results are in concordance with experimental observations, and support the idea that the interaction between keratin filaments, and ultimately in part the elastic properties of the keratin-containing tissue, is controlled by a combination of the physico-chemical properties of the disordered terminal domains and the composition of the medium in the inter-filament region.

Characterization of stratum corneum molecular dynamics by natural-abundance ¹³C solid-state NMR

Despite the enormous potential for pharmaceutical applications, there is still a lack of understanding of the molecular details that can contribute to increased permeability of the stratum corneum (SC). To investigate the influence of hydration and heating on the SC, we record the natural-abundance (13)C signal of SC using polarization transfer solid-state NMR methods. Resonance lines from all major SC components are assigned. Comparison of the signal intensities obtained with the INEPT and CP pulse sequences gives information on the molecular dynamics of SC components. The majority of the lipids are rigid at 32°C, and those lipids co-exist with a small pool of mobile lipids. The ratio between mobile and rigid lipids increases with hydration. An abrupt change of keratin filament dynamics occurs at RH = 80-85%, from completely rigid to a structure with rigid backbone and mobile protruding terminals. Heating has a strong effect on the lipid mobility, but only a weak influence on the keratin filaments. The results provide novel molecular insight into how the SC constituents are affected by hydration and heating, and improve the understanding of enhanced SC permeability, which is associated with elevated temperatures and SC hydration.

Filaggrin - revisited

Profilaggrin (proFLG) and its processing products are critical to the health and appearance of skin. The recent identification of loss-of-function filaggrin (FLG) mutations as a predisposing factor in ichthyosis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis has lead to a resurgent interest in this enigmatic protein. Here, we review the literature on the structure and many functions of proFLG, from its role as a filament-aggregating protein and a source of natural moisturizing factor (NMF), to the more recent discoveries of its role in epidermal barrier formation and its more speculative functions as an antimicrobial and sunscreen. Finally, we discuss the relationship of proFLG with dry skin, the influence of moisturizers on NMF generation and speculate on next generation of FLG research.

Solar UV radiation reduces the barrier function of human skin

The ubiquitous presence of solar UV radiation in human life is essential for vitamin D production but also leads to skin photoaging, damage, and malignancies. Photoaging and skin cancer have been extensively studied, but the effects of UV on the critical mechanical barrier function of the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), are not understood. The SC is the first line of defense against environmental exposures like solar UV radiation, and its effects on UV targets within the SC and subsequent alterations in the mechanical properties and related barrier function are unclear. Alteration of the SC's mechanical properties can lead to severe macroscopic skin damage such as chapping and cracking and associated inflammation, infection, scarring, and abnormal desquamation. Here, we show that UV exposure has dramatic effects on cell cohesion and mechanical integrity that are related to its effects on the SC's intercellular components, including intercellular lipids and corneodesmosomes. We found that, although the keratin-controlled stiffness remained surprisingly constant with UV exposure, the intercellular strength, strain, and cohesion decreased markedly. We further show that solar UV radiation poses a double threat to skin by both increasing the biomechanical driving force for damage while simultaneously decreasing the skin's natural ability to resist, compromising the critical barrier function of the skin.

Effect of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function

A daily moisturizing routine is a vital part of the management of patients with atopic dermatitis and other dry skin conditions. The composition of the moisturizer determines whether the treatment strengthens or deteriorates the skin barrier function, which may have consequences for the outcome of the dermatitis. One might expect that a patient's impaired skin barrier function should improve in association with a reduction in the clinical signs of dryness. Despite visible relief of the dryness symptoms, however, the abnormal transepidermal water loss has been reported to remain high, or even to increase under certain regimens, whereas other moisturizers improve skin barrier function. Differing outcomes have also been reported in healthy skin: some moisturizers produce deterioration in skin barrier function and others improve the skin. Possible targets for barrier-influencing moisturizing creams include the intercellular lipid bilayers, where the fraction of lipids forming a fluid phase might be changed due to compositional or organizational changes. Other targets are the projected size of the corneocytes or the thickness of the stratum corneum. Moisturizers with barrier-improving properties may delay relapse of dermatitis in patients with atopic dermatitis. In a worst-case scenario, treatment with moisturizing creams could increase the risks of dermatitis and asthma.

Decreased lactate and potassium levels in natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum of mild atopic dermatitis patients are involved with the reduced hydration state

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) shows dry skin. Water-soluble, low molecular weight components, collectively known as natural moisturizing factor (NMF), play an important role in maintaining the stratum corneum (SC) hydration. Previous studies focused on reduced levels of free amino acids (FAAs) in NMF from AD skin. It remains unknown, however, whether other NMF components are also altered in AD.

OBJECTIVE

To characterize the levels of various NMF components in the SC of healthy subjects and in mild AD adult patients.

METHODS

NMF components were extracted from three sequential tape-stripped SC samples obtained from the volar forearm. NMF components which were decreased in AD skin were topically applied to examine their contribution to SC moisturization in AD skin.

RESULTS

We found that although FAAs levels were not remarkably reduced, levels of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), lactate, urea, sodium and potassium were significantly decreased in NMF from mild AD skin. Among those components, only the topical application of potassium lactate effectively increased skin surface hydration indicating that reductions of lactate and potassium influence dry skin in mild AD patients. Unlike the distribution of filaggrin-derived FAAs and PCA, lactate, urea, potassium and sodium were abundant in the surface layer of the SC compared with the inner layer of the SC. Such findings strongly suggest that those components are supplied from outside the SC, i.e. they originate from sweat.

CONCLUSION

The reduced levels of sweat-derived NMF components in mild AD patients suggests that impaired sweat function might in part result in the SC dryness.

Analyzing and mapping sweat metabolomics by high-resolution NMR spectroscopy

The content of human sweat is studied by high-resolution NMR, and the majority of organic components most often found in sweat of conditionally healthy people are identified. Original and simple tools are designed for sweat sampling from different areas of human body. The minimal surface area needed for sampling is in the range of 50–100 cm². On all the surface parts of the human body examined in this work, the main constituents forming a sweat metabolic profile are lactate, glycerol, pyruvate, and serine. The only exception is the sole of the foot (planta pedis), where trace amounts of glycerol are found. An attempt is made to explain the presence of specified metabolites and their possible origin.

Caspase-14 is required for filaggrin degradation to natural moisturizing factors in the skin

Caspase-14 is a protease that is mainly expressed in suprabasal epidermal layers and activated during keratinocyte cornification. Caspase-14-deficient mice display reduced epidermal barrier function and increased sensitivity to UVB radiation. In these mice, profilaggrin, a protein with a pivotal role in skin barrier function, is processed correctly to its functional filaggrin (FLG) repeat unit, but proteolytic FLG fragments accumulate in the epidermis. In wild-type stratum corneum, FLG is degraded into free amino acids, some of which contribute to generation of the natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) that maintain epidermal hydration. We found that caspase-14 cleaves the FLG repeat unit and identified two caspase-14 cleavage sites. These results indicate that accumulation of FLG fragments in caspase-14(-/-) mice is due to a defect in the terminal FLG degradation pathway. Consequently, we show that the defective FLG degradation in caspase-14-deficient skin results in substantial reduction in the amount of NMFs, such as urocanic acid and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. Taken together, we identified caspase-14 as a crucial protease in FLG catabolism.

Neonatal skin maturation--vernix caseosa and free amino acids

Neonatal skin hydration decreases rapidly postnatally and then increases, indicating adaptive changes in stratum corneum water handling properties. Transition from high to low humidity at birth may initiate filaggrin proteolysis to free amino acids. Neonatal skin with vernix caseosa retained is more hydrated than skin with vernix removed. This study examines the potential roles of free amino acids and vernix in postnatal adaptation of infant stratum corneum in vivo. Specifically, the ontogeny of free amino acid generation in neonatal stratum corneum and the role of vernix caseosa in postnatal adaptation were examined using high performance liquid chromatography. Free amino acids were quantified for infant skin samples collected at (i) birth and 1 month and (ii) birth and 24 hours after vernix caseosa retention or removal and compared to neonatal foreskin, vernix caseosa, and adult stratum corneum using t-tests, analysis of variance, or univariate procedures. Free amino acids were extremely low at birth, significantly higher 1 month later but lower than in adults. Vernix caseosa retention led to significantly higher free amino acids 24 hours after birth compared to infants with vernix caseosa removed, and it paralleled the higher stratum corneum hydration of vernix caseosa-retained skin. Vernix caseosa contained free amino acids, with glutamic acid and histidine levels higher than in infants. Free amino acids in vernix caseosa-retained skin appear to originate from vernix caseosa. Free amino acids were lower in neonatal foreskin than adult forearm stratum corneum. Arginine was higher than citrulline at birth, but levels were comparable in older infants. The free amino acid increase at 1 month may be initiated by the humidity transition at birth and supports results in animals. The findings have implications for infant skin care practices.

Drying stress and damage processes in human stratum corneum

SYNOPSIS

The drying stresses that develop in stratum corneum (SC) are crucial for its mechanical and biophysical function, its cosmetic feel and appearance, and play a central role in processes of dry skin damage. However, quantitative methods to characterize these stresses are lacking and little understanding exists regarding the effects of drying environment, chemical exposures and moisturizing treatments. We describe the application of a substrate curvature technique adapted for biological tissue to accurately characterize SC drying stresses as a function of time following environmental pre-conditioning and chemical treatment in a range of drying environments. SC stresses were observed to increase to stress levels of up to approximately 3 MPa over periods of 8 h depending on pretreatment and drying environment. A unique relationship between the SC stress and water in the drying environment was established. The effect of glycerol on lowering SC stresses and damaging surfactants on elevating SC stresses were quantified. Extensions of the method to continuous monitoring of SC stresses in response to changes in environmental moisture content and temperature are reported. Finally, a biomechanics framework to account for the SC drying stress as a mechanical driving force for dry skin damage is presented.