Ageing significantly impacts the biomechanical function and structural composition of skin

Correlations of light scattering properties in human skin with the person's age assessed using a non-invasive technique

We analyze the influence of a person's age on the thicknesses and reduced scattering coefficients of the epidermis and dermis in visible part of the spectrum. Their values were assessed using a non-invasive technique which combines pulsed photothermal radiometry and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy with Monte Carlo modeling of light transport in a four-layer model of skin. The analysis is affected by the strong influences of the melanin content on the reduced scattering coefficient of the epidermis, a epi, and blood content in the case of dermis (a der). Separating their contributions reveals a significant decrease of a der with the person's age at an average rate of -0.25 mm-1 per decade, while the contribution of blood in the papillary dermis amounts to 1.0 mm-1%-1. Meanwhile, no influence of the person's age was found on a epi and the thicknesses of the epidermis or dermis.

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

The role of interface geometry and appendages on the mesoscale mechanics of the skin

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves various functions, including mechanical protection and mechanosensation. Yet, even though skin's biomechanics are attributed to two main layers-epidermis and dermis-computational models have often treated this tissue as a thin homogeneous material or, when considering multiple layers, have ignored the most prominent heterogeneities of skin seen at the mesoscale. Here, we create finite element models of representative volume elements (RVEs) of skin, including the three-dimensional variation of the interface between the epidermis and dermis as well as considering the presence of hair follicles. The sinusoidal interface, which approximates the anatomical features known as Rete ridges, does not affect the homogenized mechanical response of the RVE but contributes to stress concentration, particularly at the valleys of the Rete ridges. The stress profile is three-dimensional due to the skin's anisotropy, leading to high-stress bands connecting the valleys of the Rete ridges through one type of saddle point. The peaks of the Rete ridges and the other class of saddle points of the sinusoidal surface form a second set of low-stress bands under equi-biaxial loading. Another prominent feature of the heterogeneous stress pattern is a switch in the stress jump across the interface, which becomes lower with respect to the flat interface at increasing deformations. These features are seen in both tension and shear loading. The RVE with the hair follicle showed strains concentrating at the epidermis adjacent to the hair follicle, the epithelial tissue surrounding the hair right below the epidermis, and the bulb or base region of the hair follicle. The regions of strain concentration near the hair follicle in equi-biaxial and shear loading align with the presence of distinct mechanoreceptors in the skin, except for the bulb or base region. This study highlights the importance of skin heterogeneities, particularly its potential mechanophysiological role in the sense of touch and the prevention of skin delamination.

Antioxidants in Photoaging: From Molecular Insights to Clinical Applications

Photoaging (PA) is considered a silent disease affecting millions of people globally and is defined as skin damage due to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from the sun. Physiologically, the skin is in a state of renewal and synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix (ECM). However, exposure to UVR affects the production of the ECM, and the functioning and response of skin cells to UVR begins to change, thus expressing clinical and phenotypic characteristics of PA. The primary mechanisms involved in PA are direct damage to the DNA of skin cells, increases in oxidative stress, the activation of cell signaling pathways responsible for the loss of skin integrity, and cytotoxicity. The medical and scientific community has been researching new therapeutic tools that counteract PA, considering that the damage caused by UVR exceeds the antioxidant defense mechanisms of the skin. Thus, in recent years, certain nutraceuticals and phytochemicals have been found to exhibit potential antioxidant and photoprotective effects. Therefore, the main objective of this review is to elucidate the molecular bases of PA and the latest pharmaceutical industry findings on antioxidant treatment against the progression of PA.

Biomimetic human skin model patterned with rete ridges

Rete ridges consist of undulations between the epidermis and dermis that enhance the mechanical properties and biological function of human skin. However, most human skin models are fabricated with a flat interface between the epidermal and dermal layers. Here, we report a micro-stamping method for producing human skin models patterned with rete ridges of controlled geometry. To mitigate keratinocyte-induced matrix degradation, telocollagen-fibrin matrices with and without crosslinks enable these micropatterned features to persist during longitudinal culture. Our human skin model exhibits an epidermis that includes the following markers: cytokeratin 14, p63, and Ki67 in the basal layer, cytokeratin 10 in the suprabasal layer, and laminin and collagen IV in the basement membrane. We demonstrated that two keratinocyte cell lines, one from a neonatal donor and another from an adult diabetic donor, are compatible with this model. We tested this model using an irritation test and showed that the epidermis prevents rapid penetration of sodium dodecyl sulfate. Gene expression analysis revealed differences in keratinocytes obtained from the two donors as well as between 2D (control) and 3D culture conditions. Our human skin model may find potential application for drug and cosmetic testing, disease and wound healing modeling, and aging studies.

The Role of Interface Geometry and Appendages on the Mesoscale Mechanics of the Skin

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves various functions, including mechanical protection and mechanosensation. Yet, even though skin's biomechanics are attributed to two main layers - epidermis and dermis-computational models have often treated this tissue as a thin homogeneous material or, when considering multiple layers, have ignored the most prominent heterogeneities of skin seen at the mesoscale. Here we create finite element models of representative volume elements (RVEs) of skin, including the three-dimensional variation of the interface between the epidermis and dermis as well as considering the presence of hair follicles. The sinusoidal interface, which approximates the anatomical features known as Rete ridges, does not affect the homogenized mechanical response of the RVE but contributes to stress concentration, particularly at the valleys of the Rete ridges. The stress profile is three-dimensional due to the skin's anisotropy, leading to high-stress bands connecting the valleys of the Rete ridges through one type of saddle point. The peaks of the Rete ridges and the other class of saddle points of the sinusoidal surface form a second set of low-stress bands under equi-biaxial loading. Another prominent feature of the heterogeneous stress pattern is a switch in the stress jump across the interface, which becomes lower with respect to the flat interface at increasing deformations. These features are seen in both tension and shear loading. The RVE with the hair follicle showed strains concentrating at the epidermis adjacent to the hair follicle, the epithelial tissue surrounding the hair right below the epidermis, and the bulb or base region of the hair follicle. The regions of strain concentration near the hair follicle in equi-biaxial and shear loading align with the presence of distinct mechanoreceptors in the skin, except for the bulb or base region. This study highlights the importance of skin heterogeneities, particularly its potential mechanophysiological role in the sense of touch and the prevention of skin delamination.

Clinical validation of an elastin-derived trifunctional peptide for skin regeneration

Aging is associated with progressive skin fragility, characterized in part by extracellular matrix (ECM) fragmentation. This degradation produces matrikines which have an impact on ECM rremodeling. Our group previously designed and characterized a trifunctional peptide (TFP), constituted of i) an elastokine motif (VGVAPG)3, able to increase the expression of matrix constituent through the stimulation of the elastin-binding protein receptor, ii) a tripeptide inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity (GIL), and iii) a linker domain acting as a competitive substrate for urokinase (RVRL). TFP was shown to activate the production of matrix constituents while inhibiting Matrix MetalloProtease MMP-1 in vitro on fibroblasts and ex vivo on skin explants.

OBJECTIVE

In the present study, TFP properties were evaluated in a clinical assay.

METHODS

Twenty-two volunteers applied a TFP-based cream on one hemi-face and a placebo-based cream on the other hemi-face, twice a day during 28 days, before undergoing a surgical lifting. Cutometry and skin relief measurements were performed at days 0 and 28, and skin explants from lifting surgery were used for histological analyses.

RESULTS

Cutometry and skin relief measurements reveal TFP firming properties and wrinkle depth decrease in 28 days on TFP- as compared to placebo-treated hemi-faces. These results are confirmed by histological analyses showing an increase of the ratio between basal lamina and stratum corneum. Furthermore, immunostaining of collagen reveals a modification of the ratio between type I and III collagens.

CONCLUSION

The combined analysis of phenotypic and histologic parameters demonstrates a reorganization of the ECM towards a regenerative profile upon TFP treatment.

Mastering Midface Injections

Injectable filler is one of the most common cosmetic procedures performed annually. An aging face shows a characteristic loss of volume in the deep fat pads of the midface. The goal of midfacial rejuvenation with injectable filler is to restore lost volume, with the suborbicularis fat pad and deep medial cheek fat being the most critical areas. Filler can be instilled here with a cannula or needle with successful outcomes. However, this procedure is not without complications if proper technique and underlying anatomy are not respected.

Melatonin Promotes the Development of Secondary Hair Follicles in Adult Cashmere Goats by Activating the Keap1-Nrf2 Signaling Pathway and Inhibiting the Inflammatory Transcription Factors NFκB and AP-1

Exogenous melatonin (MT) has been used to promote the growth of secondary hair follicles and improve cashmere fiber quality, but the specific cellular-level mechanisms involved are unclear. This study was carried out to investigate the effect of MT on the development of secondary hair follicles and on cashmere fiber quality in cashmere goats. The results showed that MT improved secondary follicle numbers and function as well as enhanced cashmere fiber quality and yield. The MT-treated goat groups had high secondary-to-primary ratios (S:P) for hair follicles, greater in the elderly group (p < 0.05). Antioxidant capacities of secondary hair follicles improved fiber quality and yield in comparison with control groups (p < 0.05/0.01). Levels of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS, RNS) and malondialdehyde (MDA) were lowered (p < 0.05/0.01) by MT. There was significant upregulation of antioxidant genes (for SOD-3; GPX-1; NFE2L2) and the protein of nuclear factor (Nrf2), and downregulation of the Keap1 protein. There were significant differences in the expression of genes for secretory senescence-associated phenotype (SASP) cytokines (IL-1β, IL-6, MMP-9, MMP-27, CCL-21, CXCL-12, CXCL-14, TIMP-1,2,3) plus their protein of key transcription factors, nuclear factor kappa B (NFκB) and activator protein-1 (AP-1), in comparison with the controls. We concluded that MT could enhance antioxidant capacity and reduce ROS and RNS levels of secondary hair follicles through the Keap1-Nrf2 pathway in adult cashmere goats. Furthermore, MT reduced the expression of the SASP cytokines genes by inhibiting the protein of NFκB and AP-1 in the secondary hair follicles in older cashmere goats, thus delaying skin aging, improving follicle survival, and increasing the number of secondary hair follicles. Collectively, these effects of exogenous MT enhanced the quality and yield of cashmere fibers, especially at 5-7 years old.

Rete ridges: Morphogenesis, function, regulation, and reconstruction

Rete ridges (RRs) are distinct undulating microstructures at the junction of the dermis and epidermis in the skin of humans and certain animals. This structure is essential for enhancing the mechanical characteristics of skin and preserving homeostasis. With the development of tissue engineering and regenerative medicine, artificial skin grafts have made great progress in the field of skin healing. However, the restoration of RRs has been often disregarded or absent in artificial skin grafts, which potentially compromise the efficacy of tissue repair and regeneration. Therefore, this review collates recent research advances in understanding the structural features, function, morphogenesis, influencing factors, and reconstruction strategies pertaining to RRs. In addition, the preparation methods and limitations of tissue-engineered skin with RRs are discussed. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: The technology for the development of tissue-engineered skin (TES) is widely studied and reported; however, the preparation of TES containing rete ridges (RRs) is often ignored, with no literature reviews on the structural reconstruction of RRs. This review focuses on the progress pertaining to RRs and focuses on the reconstruction methods for RRs. In addition, it discusses the limitations of existing reconstruction methods. Therefore, this review could be a valuable reference for transferring TES with RR structure from the laboratory to clinical applications in skin repair.

Advances and Innovations of 3D Bioprinting Skin

Three-dimensional (3D) bioprinted skin equivalents are highlighted as the new gold standard for alternative models to animal testing, as well as full-thickness wound healing. In this review, we focus on the advances and innovations of 3D bioprinting skin for skin regeneration, within the last five years. After a brief introduction to skin anatomy, 3D bioprinting methods and the remarkable features of recent studies are classified as advances in materials, structures, and functions. We will discuss several ways to improve the clinical potential of 3D bioprinted skin, with state-of-the-art printing technology and novel biomaterials. After the breakthrough in the bottleneck of the current studies, highly developed skin can be fabricated, comprising stratified epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis with blood vessels, nerves, muscles, and skin appendages. We hope that this review will be priming water for future research and clinical applications, that will guide us to break new ground for the next generation of skin regeneration.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

Quantification of Microstructural Changes in the Dermis of Elderly Women Using Morphometric Indices of the Skin Surface

OBJECTIVE

The main objective of this study was the development of a non-invasive mathematical marker of the skin surface, the characteristic length, to predict the microstructure of the dermis. This marker, at the individual level, is intended to provide the biological age of the patient in the context of personalised medicine for the elderly.

STUDY DESIGN

To validate this hypothesis, a clinical study was conducted on 22 women over 60 years old from a population of osteoporotic subjects who sustained a femoral neck fracture: a morphological analysis of the skin surface was performed on the patient's forearm and quantitatively compared with microarchitectural parameters of the dermis.

MAJOR RESULTS

The Elastin-to-Collagen ratio measured on dermis samples ranged between 0.007 and 0.084, with a mean of 0.035 ± 0.02. The surface characteristic length ranged between 0.90 and 2.621, with a mean of 0.64 ± 0.51. A very strong correlation was found between this characteristic length and the Elastin-to-Collagen ratio (r = 0.92).

CONCLUSIONS

This study proposes an original diagnostic tool based on morphometric indices of the skin surface and shows a direct quantitative relationship with the dermis microarchitecture and its collagen and elastin content. The proposed method allows reliable and easy access to the intrinsic ageing of the dermis, which would be a strong biomarker in a personalised collagen treatment approach.

Long Hanging Structure of Collagen VII Connects the Elastic Fibers and the Basement Membrane in Young Skin Tissue

Aging leads to substantial structural changes in the skin. Elastic fibers maintain skin structure, but their degeneration and loss of function with age result in wrinkle formation and loss of skin elasticity. Oxytalan fiber, a type of elastic fiber, extends close to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) from the back of the dermis. Oxytalan fibers are abundant in the papillary layer and contribute to skin elasticity and texture. However, to accurately understand the mechanisms of skin elasticity, the interaction between elastic fibers and DEJ should be elucidated. Here, we investigated elastic fibers and DEJ and their structural alterations with aging. Several basement membrane proteins [collagen (COL) IV, COLVII, and laminin 332], fibrous tropoelastin, and fibrillin-1 in excised human skin tissue were observed using three-dimensional imaging. Age-related alterations in COLVII, elastic fibers, and fibrillin-1 were evaluated. We found that COLVII forms long hanging structures and is co-localized with fibrous tropoelastin in young skin but not aged skin. Fibrillin-1-rich regions were observed at the tips of elastin fibers in young skin tissue, but rarely in aged skin. This co-localization of elastic fiber and COLVII may maintain skin structure, thereby preventing wrinkling and sagging. COLVII is a potential therapeutic target for skin wrinkling.

Prevention of Ageing-The Role of Micro-Needling in Neck and Cleavage Rejuvenation: A Narrative Review

Although interest in aesthetic medicine is growing, the focus is often placed outside of the facial area, namely on the skin of the neck and cleavage. Exposure to the sun and muscle movements cause the prompt development of wrinkles that may appear there, even before they show up on the face. We conducted a literature review devoted to micro-needling to identify its role in anti-ageing treatments and to determine the gaps in current knowledge. A search in Medline identified 52 publications for neck and face micro-needling. Micro-needling is an anti-ageing procedure that involves making micro-punctures in the skin to induce skin remodelling by stimulating the fibroblasts responsible for collagen and elastin production. It can be applied to the skin of the face, neck, and cleavage. Two to four weeks should be allowed between repeated procedures to achieve an optimal effect. The increase in collagen and elastin in the skin can reach 400% after 6 months, with an increase in the thickness of the stratum granulosum occurring for up to 1 year. In conclusion, micro-needling can be considered an effective and safe aesthetic medicine procedure which is conducted at low costs due to its low invasiveness, low number of adverse reactions, and short recovery time. Little evidence identified in the literature suggests that this procedure requires further research.

3D printing of skin equivalents with hair follicle structures and epidermal-papillary-dermal layers using gelatin/hyaluronic acid hydrogels

Recent advances in three-dimensional (3D) bioprinting technologies enabled the fabrication of sophisticated live 3D tissue analogs. Although various hydrogel-based bioink has been reported, the development of advanced bioink materials that can reproduce the composition of native extracellular matrix (ECM) accurately and mimic the intrinsic property of laden cells is still challenging. In this work, 3D printed skin equivalents incorporating hair follicle structures and epidermal-papillary-dermal layers are fabricated with gelatin methacryloyl (GelMA)/hyaluronic acid (HA) MA (HAMA) hydrogel (GelMA/HAMA) bioink. The composition of collagen and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) of native skin was recapitulated by adjusting the combination of GelMA and HAMA. The GelMA/HAMA bioink was proven to have excellent viscoelastic and physicochemical properties, 3D printability, cytocompatibility, and functionality to maintain the hair inductive potency and facilitated spontaneous hair pore development. Overall, we suggest that the GelMA/HAMA hydrogels can be promising candidates as bioinks for the 3D printing of skin equivalents with epidermal-papillary-dermal multi-layers and hair follicle structures, and they might serve as a useful model in skin tissue engineering and regeneration.

Molecular Mechanisms of Changes in Homeostasis of the Dermal Extracellular Matrix: Both Involutional and Mediated by Ultraviolet Radiation

Skin aging is a multi-factorial process that affects nearly every aspect of skin biology and function. With age, an impairment of structures, quality characteristics, and functions of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) occurs in the skin, which leads to disrupted functioning of dermal fibroblasts (DFs), the main cells supporting morphofunctional organization of the skin. The DF functioning directly depends on the state of the surrounding collagen matrix (CM). The intact collagen matrix ensures proper adhesion and mechanical tension in DFs, which allows these cells to maintain collagen homeostasis while ECM correctly regulates cellular processes. When the integrity of CM is destroyed, mechanotransduction is disrupted, which is accompanied by impairment of DF functioning and destruction of collagen homeostasis, thereby contributing to the progression of aging processes in skin tissues. This article considers in detail the processes of skin aging and associated changes in the skin layers, as well as the mechanisms of these processes at the molecular level.

Standardizing Dimensionless Cutometer Parameters to Determine In Vivo Elasticity of Human Skin

Objective: Skin fibrosis places an enormous burden on patients and society, but disagreement exists over methods to quantify severity of skin scarring. A suction cutometer measures skin elasticity in vivo, but it has not been widely adopted because of inconsistency in data produced. We investigated variability of several dimensionless parameters generated by the cutometer to improve their precision and accuracy. Approach: Twenty adult human subjects underwent suction cutometer measurement of normal skin (NS) and fibrotic scars (FS). Using Mode 1, each subject underwent five trials with each trial containing four curves. R0/2/5/6/7 and Q1/2/3 data were collected. Analyses were performed on these calculated parameters. Results: R0/2/5/6/7 and Q1/2 parameters from curves 1 to 4 demonstrated significant differences, whereas these same parameters were not significantly different when only using curves 2-4. Individual analysis of all parameters between curve 1 and every subsequent curve was statistically significant for R0, R2, R5, R6, R7, Q1, and Q2. No differences were appreciated for parameter Q3. Comparison between NS and FS were significantly different for parameters R5, Q1, and Q3. Innovation: Our study is the first demonstration of accurate comparison between NS and FS using the dimensionless parameters of a suction cutometer. Conclusions: Measured parameters from the first curve of each trial were significantly different from subsequent curves for both NS and FS. Precision and reproducibility of data from dimensionless parameters can therefore be improved by removing the first curve. R5, Q1, and Q3 parameters differentiated NS as more elastic than FS.

Managing Skin Ageing as a Modifiable Disorder—The Clinical Application of Nourella® Dual Approach Comprising a Nano-Encapsulated Retinoid, Retilex-A® and a Skin Proteoglycan Replacement Therapy, Vercilex®

Skin ageing is a progressive, but modifiable, multi-factorial disorder that involves all the skin’s tissues. Due to its wide range of physiological and psychosocial complications, skin ageing requires rigorous clinical attention. In this review, we aim to encourage clinicians to consider skin ageing as a disorder and suggest a novel, dual approach to its clinical treatment. Topical retinoids and per-oral proteoglycans are promising, non-invasive, therapeutic modalities. To overcome the low bioavailability of conventional free retinoids, Nourella® cream with Retilex-A® (Pharma Medico, Aarhus, Denmark) was developed using a proprietary nano-encapsulation technology. The nano-encapsulation is a sophisticated ‘permeation/penetration enhancer’ that optimises topical drug delivery by increasing the surface availability and net absorption ratio. Treatment adherence is also improved by minimising skin irritation. Interventional evidence suggests the greater efficacy of Retilex-A® in improving skin thickness and elasticity compared with conventional free forms. It is also reported that the rejuvenating efficacy of Retilex-A® and tretinoin are comparable. Another skin anti-ageing approach is proteoglycan replacement therapy (PRT) with Vercilex®. Vercilex® in Nourella® tablet form has the potential to ameliorate proteoglycan dysmetabolism in aged skin by activating skin cells and improving collagen/elastin turnover. Replicated clinical trials evidenced that PRT can significantly enhance the density, elasticity and thickness of both intrinsically aged and photoaged skin. Evidently, Vercilex® and Retilex-A® share a range of bioactivities that underlie their synergistic activity, as observed in a clinical trial. Dual therapy with Nourella® tablets and cream produced greater effects on skin characteristics than monotherapy with each of the two treatments. In conclusion, Nourella® cream and tablets are safe and effective treatments for skin ageing; however, combining the two in a ‘dual skin rejuvenation system’ significantly improves treatment outcomes.

A newly developed and validated LC-MS/MS method for measuring 7-dehydrocholesterol (7DHC) concentration in human skin: a tool for vitamin D photobiology research

BACKGROUND

UVB absorption by 7-dehydrocholesterol (7DHC) in the skin triggers the production of vitamin D and its metabolites, which maintain calcium homeostasis. Detection and measurement of 7DHC in skin using modern liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) techniques have been lacking, yet there is need for such a technique to provide more information on 7DHC concentration and its UVB responses in human skin.

OBJECTIVES

To develop and validate a reliable method to measure 7DHC concentration in skin.

METHODS

Human skin punch biopsies of 5 mm diameter obtained through the Manchester Skin Health Biobank were utilised. 7DHC was extracted with ethyl acetate:methanol 1:1 (v/v) and derivatised using 4-phenyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione (PTAD), to allow for improved ionisation of 7DHC through Electrospray Ionisation Mass Spectrometry (ESI-MS). Solid supported liquid extraction (SLE) was also employed to allow the removal of larger lipids from 7DHC and minimise potential matrix effects.

RESULTS

The LC-MS/MS assay satisfied International Council for Harmonisation research standards for method validation. Calibration curve was linear with a typical r² of 0.997, coefficient of variation was 11.1% and 4.32% for inter-assay and intra-assay imprecision, respectively. Lower limit of quantification was 1.6 µg/g and upper limit of quantification was 100 µg/g, SLE recovery of 7DHC was on average 91.4%.

CONCLUSIONS

We have developed a robust, precise and accurate assay for the detection and quantification of 7DHC in small samples of human skin (0.2 cm² surface area). This novel method of extraction and quantification will be valuable to future vitamin D photobiology research.

Evaluation of elastin fibres in young and aged eyelids and abdominal skin using computational 3D structural analysis

Background

Aging‐related degeneration of elastic fibres causes skin wrinkles and loss of elasticity. A correlation has been reported between dermal elastic fibre degradation and wrinkles. However, the mechanism of wrinkle formation is complex and unclear. To establish methods for treating wrinkles, it is necessary to understand the aging‐related morphological alterations underlying elastin fibre degradation or disappearance.

Objectives

To image and analyse aging‐related three‐dimensional (3D) morphological alterations of elastic fibres in the eyelid and abdominal skin.

Methods

Excised human eyelid and abdominal skin tissues were examined. The structure of elastic fibres in the skin tissues was examined via nuclear, tropoelastin and fibrillin‐1 immunostaining. Then, 3D imaging was performed using a confocal laser microscope and tissue decolourization technology. Images were analysed using a computational method.

Results

The decolourization technology made it possible to image elastin fibres in 3D, and we devised a method for analyzing the elastin fibre structure using computational methods. It was quantitatively shown that the eyelid skin has a more complex fibrous structure than the abdomen, and the fibres became curved, shortened and thickened with age.

Conclusions

We provide a novel 3D analysis method for elastin fibres and report age‐related alterations in elastin fibre structure in the human eyelid and abdominal skin. This method contributes to the understanding of elastin fibre degeneration in more detail than conventional methods. Applying this 3D analysis method to skin tissues will contribute to a better understanding of age‐related changes in fibres and to the development of novel wrinkle treatments.

How good is the evidence that cellular senescence causes skin ageing?

Skin is the largest organ of the body with important protective functions, which become compromised with time due to both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing processes. Cellular senescence is the primary ageing process at cell level, associated with loss of proliferative capacity, mitochondrial dysfunction and significantly altered patterns of expression and secretion of bioactive molecules. Intervention experiments have proven cell senescence as a relevant cause of ageing in many organs. In case of skin, accumulation of senescence in all major compartments with ageing is well documented and might be responsible for most, if not all, the molecular changes observed during ageing. Incorporation of senescent cells into in-vitro skin models (specifically 3D full thickness models) recapitulates changes typically associated with skin ageing. However, crucial evidence is still missing. A beneficial effect of senescent cell ablation on skin ageing has so far only been shown following rather unspecific interventions or in transgenic mouse models. We conclude that evidence for cellular senescence as a relevant cause of intrinsic skin ageing is highly suggestive but not yet completely conclusive.

The Importance of Mimicking Dermal-Epidermal Junction for Skin Tissue Engineering: A Review

There is a distinct boundary between the dermis and epidermis in the human skin called the basement membrane, a dense collagen network that creates undulations of the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). The DEJ plays multiple roles in skin homeostasis and function, namely, enhancing the adhesion and physical interlock of the layers, creating niches for epidermal stem cells, regulating the cellular microenvironment, and providing a physical boundary layer between fibroblasts and keratinocytes. However, the primary role of the DEJ has been determined as skin integrity; there are still aspects of it that are poorly investigated. Tissue engineering (TE) has evolved promising skin regeneration strategies and already developed TE scaffolds for clinical use. However, the currently available skin TE equivalents neglect to replicate the DEJ anatomical structures. The emergent ability to produce increasingly complex scaffolds for skin TE will enable the development of closer physical and physiological mimics to natural skin; it also allows researchers to study the DEJ effect on cell function. Few studies have created patterned substrates that could mimic the human DEJ to explore their significance. Here, we first review the DEJ roles and then critically discuss the TE strategies to create the DEJ undulating structure and their effects. New approaches in this field could be instrumental for improving bioengineered skin substitutes, creating 3D engineered skin, identifying pathological mechanisms, and producing and screening drugs.

Remodeling the ECM: Implications for Metastasis and Tumor Dormancy

While most primary tumors can be effectively treated, therapeutics fail to efficiently eliminate metastases. Metastases arise from cancer cells that leave the primary tumor and seed distant sites. Recent studies have shown that cancer cells disseminate early during tumor progression and can remain dormant for years before they resume growth. In these metastatic organs, cancer cells reside in microenvironments where they interact with other cells, but also with the extracellular matrix (ECM). The ECM was long considered to be an inert, non-cellular component of tissues, providing their architecture. However, in recent years, a growing body of evidence has shown that the ECM is a key driver of cancer progression, and it can exert effects on tumor cells, regulating their metastatic fate. ECM remodeling and degradation is required for the early steps of the metastatic cascade: invasion, tumor intravasation, and extravasation. Similarly, ECM molecules have been shown to be important for metastatic outgrowth. However, the role of ECM molecules on tumor dormancy and their contribution to the dormancy-supportive niches is not well understood. In this perspective article, we will summarize the current knowledge of ECM and its role in tumor metastasis and dormancy. We will discuss how a better understanding of the individual components of the ECM niche and their roles mediating the dormant state of disseminated tumor cells (DTCs) will advance the development of new therapies to target dormant cells and prevent metastasis outgrowth.

Differences between perceived age and chronological age in women: A multi-ethnic and multi-centre study

Objective

Accuracy in assessing age from facial cues is important in social perception given reports of strong negative correlations between perceived age and assessments of health and attractiveness. In a multi‐ethnic and multi‐centre study, we previously documented similar patterns of female facial age assessments across ethnicities, influenced by gender and ethnicity of assessors.

Methods

Here we extend these findings by examining differences between estimated age from digital portraits and chronological age (Δ age) for 180 women from three age groups (20–34, 35–49, 50–66 years) and five ethnicities (36 images of each ethnicity, assessed for age on a continuous scale by 120 female and male raters of each ethnicity).

Results

Across ethnicities, Δ age was smallest in French assessors and largest in South African assessors. Numerically, French women were judged oldest and Chinese women youngest relative to chronological age. In younger women, Δ age was larger than in middle‐aged and older women. This effect was particularly evident when considering the interaction of women's age with assessor gender and ethnicity, independently and together, on Δ age.

Conclusion

Collectively, our findings suggest that accuracy in assessments of female age from digital portraits depends on the chronological age and ethnicity of the photographed women and the ethnicity and gender of the assessor. We discuss the findings concerning ethnic variation in skin pigmentation and visible signs of ageing and comment on implications for cosmetic science.

Niche stiffening compromises hair follicle stem cell potential during ageing by reducing bivalent promoter accessibility

Tissue turnover requires activation and lineage commitment of tissue-resident stem cells (SCs). These processes are impacted by ageing, but the mechanisms remain unclear. Here, we addressed the mechanisms of ageing in murine hair follicle SCs (HFSCs) and observed a widespread reduction in chromatin accessibility in aged HFSCs, particularly at key self-renewal and differentiation genes, characterized by bivalent promoters occupied by active and repressive chromatin marks. Consistent with this, aged HFSCs showed reduced ability to activate bivalent genes for efficient self-renewal and differentiation. These defects were niche dependent as the transplantation of aged HFSCs into young recipients or synthetic niches restored SC functions. Mechanistically, the aged HFSC niche displayed widespread alterations in extracellular matrix composition and mechanics, resulting in mechanical stress and concomitant transcriptional repression to silence promoters. As a consequence, increasing basement membrane stiffness recapitulated age-related SC changes. These data identify niche mechanics as a central regulator of chromatin state, which, when altered, leads to age-dependent SC exhaustion.

Herbal Extracts as Potential Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Inflammatory, and Whitening Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The aim of this research was to investigate and compare the antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities of 16 herbal extracts for topical application in cosmetic/cosmeceutical products. Herbal plant materials were extracted by infusion in boiled water for 15 min. The total phenolic content and total flavonoid content of each extract were investigated by the Folin-Ciocalteu and aluminum chloride methods, respectively. Antioxidant activities were investigated using 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and a ferric reducing antioxidant power assay. Anti-tyrosinase and anti-aging activities were investigated using an in vitro enzymatic-spectrophotometric method. Anti-inflammatory activities were investigated using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. The findings show that the Stevia rebaudiana extract has the most significant levels of both phenols and flavonoids (p<0.05). The S. rebaudiana, Rosa damascene, and Phyllanthus emblica extracts possessed the most significant antioxidant activities (p<0.05) and a promising whitening effect with moderate anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, the Echinacea purpurea extract possessed the most significant anti-collagenase (78.5±0.0 %), anti-elastase (69.0±1.4 %), and anti-hyaluronidase activity (64.2±0.3 %). The Morus alba extract possessed the most significant anti-inflammatory activity since it could inhibit the secretion of interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-α (p<0.05). Therefore, these herbal extracts have promising skin benefits and have potential for use as active ingredients in cosmetic/cosmeceutical products.

Validation of the elastic angle for quantitative and visible evaluation of skin elasticity in vivo

Background

Reduction in skin elasticity due to aging causes skin sagging and wrinkles. Although there are various objective and reliable techniques for measuring skin elasticity, it is difficult to obtain a visual representation of skin elasticity with them. Therefore, we developed a novel device, the Swing anglemeter, and analyzed its effectiveness for measuring skin elasticity of the cheek.

Materials and Methods

Forty‐five healthy Korean women (age, 23‐60 years) participated. The Swing anglemeter works by dropping a rubber ball on a subject's cheek, which draws a curve as it collides with the cheek. After recording the movement of the ball using the slow‐motion function on a mobile phone, we defined the maximum angle at which the ball bounces off the skin as the elastic angle, using frame‐by‐frame video analysis. Changes in the elastic angle were assessed according to age, and correlation with the Ballistometer^® results (Dia‐stron Ltd., Andover, UK) was analyzed for validation.

Results

Elastic angles differed significantly (P < .001) according to age. A negative correlation was found between the elastic angle and age (r = −.799, P < .001). Compared with the Ballistometer^® measurements, the elastic angle was negatively correlated with alpha (r = −.570, P < .001); it was positively correlated with the mean coefficient of restitution and area (r = .602, P < .001 and r = .535, P < .001, respectively).

Conclusion

The elastic angle is a useful parameter for reflecting skin elasticity, both quantitatively and visually. Our method can help subjects understand their skin elasticity status. Therefore, we expect the device will be utilized in various fields within the cosmetic industry.

Peptide location fingerprinting reveals modification-associated biomarker candidates of ageing in human tissue proteomes

Although dysfunctional protein homeostasis (proteostasis) is a key factor in many age-related diseases, the untargeted identification of structurally modified proteins remains challenging. Peptide location fingerprinting is a proteomic analysis technique capable of identifying structural modification-associated differences in mass spectrometry (MS) data sets of complex biological samples. A new webtool (Manchester Peptide Location Fingerprinter), applied to photoaged and intrinsically aged skin proteomes, can relatively quantify peptides and map statistically significant differences to regions within protein structures. New photoageing biomarker candidates were identified in multiple pathways including extracellular matrix organisation (collagens and proteoglycans), protein synthesis and folding (ribosomal proteins and TRiC complex subunits), cornification (keratins) and hemidesmosome assembly (plectin and integrin α6β4). Crucially, peptide location fingerprinting uniquely identified 120 protein biomarker candidates in the dermis and 71 in the epidermis which were modified as a consequence of photoageing but did not differ significantly in relative abundance (measured by MS1 ion intensity). By applying peptide location fingerprinting to published MS data sets, (identifying biomarker candidates including collagen V and versican in ageing tendon) we demonstrate the potential of the MPLF webtool for biomarker discovery.

Identification of skin aging biomarkers correlated with the biomechanical properties

BACKGROUND

Skin aging can be described as a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Various parameters for evaluating skin characteristics have been proposed. However, an accurate biomarker for skin aging and the relationship between biomarkers and biomechanical parameters of the skin is yet to be explored.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This study included 20 subjects by age. Skin aging was measured using non-invasive devices. Skin tissues were acquired through punch biopsy for immunohistochemistry and qRT-PCR of skin aging biomarkers, and analyzed correlation both, validated their use.

RESULTS

Biomechanical properties of skin aging decreased with age. Among the biomarkers previously reported, we found that the expression of Moesin, TXNDC5, RhoGDI, and RSU1 decreased, while that of Vimentin and FABP5 increased with age. Pearson correlation showed that the expression levels of TXNDC5, RhoGDI, RSU1, and Vimentin were significantly correlated with the results of non-invasive measurements. In addition, the expression of TXNDC5, RhoGDI, and RSU1 increased, while that of Vimentin decreased, in skin explants upon treatment with one of the anti-aging compounds, retinoic acid.

CONCLUSION

From this study, we identified practical molecular biomarkers of skin aging, TXNDC5, RhoGDI, RSU1, and Vimentin, which correlated with the skin biomechanical properties of skin aging.

Age-Related Changes in Female Scalp Dermal Sheath and Dermal Fibroblasts: How the Hair Follicle Environment Impacts Hair Aging

In women, aging leads to reduced hair density and thinner fibers and can result in female-pattern hair loss. However, the impact of the aging dermal environment on female scalp hair follicles remains unclear. In this study, we document in situ changes in 22 women (aged 19-81 years) and primary cultures of dermal fibroblast and dermal sheath cells. In situ, the papillary reticular boundary was indistinguishable in the young scalp but prominent in the scalp of those aged >40 years, accompanied by reduced podoplanin (PDPN) expression, increased versican expression, and changes in collagen organization. Hair follicles were shorter, not reaching the adipose layer. Hyaluronic acid synthase 2 was highly expressed, whereas matrix metalloproteinase 1 was elevated in the dermal papilla and dermal sheath in situ. Primary dermal fibroblast cultures confirmed that matrix metalloproteinase 1 mRNA, MMP1, increased with aging, whereas in dermal sheath cells, hyaluronic acid synthase 2, HAS2, and PDPN increased and α-smooth muscle actin αSMA mRNA decreased. Both exhibited increased cartilage oligomeric protein, COMP mRNA expression. Proteomics revealed an increase in dermal sheath proteins in the dermal fibroblast secretome with aging. In summary, aging female scalp shows striking structural and biological changes in the hair follicle environment that may impact hair growth.

The systemic influence of chronic smoking on skin structure and mechanical function

One of the major functions of human skin is to provide protection from the environment. Although we cannot entirely avoid, for example, sun exposure, it is likely that exposure to other environmental factors could affect cutaneous function. A number of studies have identified smoking as one such factor that leads to both facial wrinkle formation and a decline in skin function. In addition to the direct physical effects of tobacco smoke on skin, its inhalation has additional profound systemic effects for the smoker. The adverse effects on the respiratory and cardiovascular systems from smoking are well known. Central to the pathological changes associated with smoking is the elastic fibre, a key component of the extracellular matrices of lungs. In this study we examined the systemic effect of chronic smoking (>40 cigarettes/day; >5 years) on the histology of the cutaneous elastic fibre system, the nanostructure and mechanics of one of its key components, the fibrillin-rich microfibril, and the micromechanical stiffness of the dermis and epidermis. We show that photoprotected skin of chronic smokers exhibits significant remodelling of the elastic fibre network (both elastin and fibrillin-rich microfibrils) as compared to the skin of age- and sex-matched non-smokers. This remodelling is not associated with increased gelatinase activity (as identified by in situ zymography). Histological remodelling is accompanied by significant ultrastructural changes to extracted fibrillin-rich microfibrils. Finally, using scanning acoustic microscopy, we demonstrated that chronic smoking significantly increases the stiffness of both the dermis and the epidermis. Taken together, these data suggest an unappreciated systemic effect of chronic inhalation of tobacco smoke on the cutaneous elastic fibre network. Such changes may in part underlie the skin wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity associated with smoking. © 2020 The Authors. The Journal of Pathology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Pathological Society of Great Britain and Ireland.

Heterogeneity of fibrillin-rich microfibrils extracted from human skin of diverse ethnicity

The dermal elastic fibre network is the primary effector of skin elasticity, enabling it to extend and recoil many times over the lifetime of the individual. Fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) constitute integral components of the elastic fibre network, with their distribution showing differential deposition in the papillary dermis across individuals of diverse skin ethnicity. Despite these differential findings in histological presentation, it is not known if skin ethnicity influences FRM ultrastructure. FRMs are evolutionarily highly conserved from jellyfish to man and, regardless of tissue type or species, isolated FRMs have a characteristic 'beads-on-a-string' ultrastructural appearance, with an average inter-bead distance (or periodicity) of 56 nm. Here, skin biopsies were obtained from the photoprotected buttock of healthy volunteers (18-27 years; African: n = 5; European: n = 5), and FRMs were isolated from the superficial papillary dermis and deeper reticular dermis and imaged by atomic force microscopy. In the reticular dermis, there was no significant difference in FRM ultrastructure between European and African participants. In contrast, in the more superficial papillary dermis, inter-bead periodicity was significantly larger for FRMs extracted from European participants than from African participants by 2.20 nm (p < .001). We next assessed whether these differences in FRM ultrastructure were present during early postnatal development by characterizing FRMs from full-thickness neonatal foreskin. Analysis of FRM periodicity identified no significant difference between neonatal cohorts (p = .865). These data suggest that at birth, FRMs are developmentally invariant. However, in adults of diverse skin ethnicity, there is a deviation in ultrastructure for the papillary dermal FRMs that may be acquired during the passage of time from child to adulthood. Understanding the mechanism by which this difference in papillary dermal FRMs arises warrants further study.

Correlation analysis between advanced glycation end products detected noninvasively and skin aging factors

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the correlation between advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and skin elasticity or blood perfusion values in healthy people of different age groups and to evaluate the relationship between noninvasive detection of AGEs and age or skin aging.

METHODS

One hundred and two healthy people were enrolled and grouped into groups of 20 years old. Group I: 19-40 years old; Group II: 41-60 years old; Group III: 61-80 years old. Noninvasive techniques such as fluorescence spectroscopy and laser speckle flowmetry were used to detect AGEs levels, local skin perfusion value, and skin elasticity in skin tissue at all age groups.

RESULT

The AGEs in the skin increased with age, and the difference between the three age groups was statistically significant (P < .05).There was no significant difference in gender between AGEs (P > .05).There was no significant relationship between AGEs and skin elasticity or blood perfusion value in the Group I; there was a low correlation between AGEs and skin elasticity in the 41-60 years age group (r < .4, P < .05). The level of AGEs in the elderly over 60 years was significantly positively correlated with skin elasticity and blooding perfusion value (r > .4, P < .05).

CONCLUSION

There is a significant correlation between AGEs and age or skin aging indicators. As the age increasing, the level of AGEs increases obviously, which can be used as a potential noninvasive tool for detecting skin aging.

Proteomic fingerprints of damage in extracellular matrix assemblies

In contrast to the dynamic intracellular environment, structural extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins with half-lives measured in decades, are susceptible to accumulating damage. Whilst conventional approaches such as histology, immunohistochemistry and mass spectrometry are able to identify age- and disease-related changes in protein abundance or distribution, these techniques are poorly suited to characterising molecular damage. We have previously shown that mass spectrometry can detect tissue-specific differences in the proteolytic susceptibility of protein regions within fibrillin-1 and collagen VI alpha-3. Here, we present a novel proteomic approach to detect damage-induced “peptide fingerprints” within complex multi-component ECM assemblies (fibrillin and collagen VI microfibrils) following their exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) by broadband UVB or solar simulated radiation (SSR). These assemblies were chosen because, in chronically photoaged skin, fibrillin and collagen VI microfibril architectures are differentially susceptible to UVR. In this study, atomic force microscopy revealed that fibrillin microfibril ultrastructure was significantly altered by UVR exposure whereas the ultrastructure of collagen VI microfibrils was resistant. UVR-induced molecular damage was further characterised by proteolytic peptide generation with elastase followed by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Peptide mapping revealed that UVR exposure increased regional proteolytic susceptibility within the protein structures of fibrillin-1 and collagen VI alpha-3. This allowed the identification of UVR-induced molecular changes within these two key ECM assemblies. Additionally, similar changes were observed within protein regions of co-purifying, microfibril-associated receptors integrins αv and β1. This study demonstrates that LC-MS/MS mapping of peptides enables the characterisation of molecular post-translational damage (via direct irradiation and radiation-induced oxidative mechanisms) within a complex in vitro model system. This peptide fingerprinting approach reliably allows both the identification of UVR-induced molecular damage in and between proteins and the identification of specific protein domains with increased proteolytic susceptibility as a result of photo-denaturation. This has the potential to serve as a sensitive method of identifying accumulated molecular damage in vivo using conventional mass spectrometry data-sets.

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Mass spectrometry “peptide fingerprinting” can detect post-translational damage within extracellular matrix proteins.

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UVR-induced FBN1 and COL6A3 peptide fingerprints are reproducibly identified from purified microfibrils.

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Peptide mapping reveals increased regional susceptibilities to proteolysis in FBN1 and COL6A3 proteins.

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Regional changes are also observed in protein structures of microfibril-associated receptor integrins αv and β1.

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This “peptide fingerprinting” approach is applicable to conventional LC-MS/MS datasets.

EEMCO Guidance for the in vivo Assessment of Biomechanical Properties of the Human Skin and Its Annexes: Revisiting Instrumentation and Test Modes

Biomechanics of the skin is an important subject in skin research. It has been studied for many decades involving various technologies and methods to characterize and quantify mechanical properties of the skin under different in vivo conditions. The present EEMCO paper reviews the current rel-evant information, providing practical orientation to researchers dedicated to in vivo assessment of biomechanics of skin and its annexes. We discuss the available non-invasive instruments, including their principles and variables. A correspondence between the descriptors nomenclature proposed by Agache and the designation for the suction-based standard instruments is proposed. The addressed properties include skin softness/stiffness, firmness, elasticity, elastic and viscoelastic properties, extensibility, resilience, anisotropy, acoustical shock wave hardness, friction (in relation to topographic properties), thickness, fiber/stress mechanics (bending, cyclic, tensile, fatigue, or torsion), and hardness. We provide the relation of these properties to biomechanical descriptors and in some cases to SI units. Practical guidance for the proper use of these instruments, limitations, and possible interpretations are provided, while discussing the meaning of descriptive or "phenomenological" variables. For studies intended to quantify the effect of an intervention with regard to mechanical properties, we recommend a minimum of 30-40 participants, based on normal distribution of the data sets. Some important limitations are recognized, including the lack of standardization of procedures and calibration of instruments, which compromises the relevance and real nature of the descriptors/parameters obtained with these devices. The present work highlights an approach to a better practice and a science-supported biomechanical assessment of human skin, hair, and nails.

Mechanical stretching stimulates growth of the basal layer and rete ridges in the epidermis

We have developed four experimental models of mechanical stimulation applied to the back skin using tissue expansion (TE) procedure performed on minipigs. The technique is used by plastic surgeons for decades, to amend the congenital or accidental skin defects, though underlying changes in epidermis are not well understood. We found that the initial stretching increased proliferation of basal keratinocytes leading to elongation of the basal layer, and increased cellular density. The increased number of the rete ridges, suggests that they absorbed the impact of excessive proliferation, preserving layered organization of epidermis. We found β1 integrin to be a very sensitive responder to stimulation instigated by TE procedure, able to dynamically relocate to adjust the basal cell against external force. Repeated mechanical stimulation with a seven-day interval generated healthy tissue without detrimental effects. Given the similarities between the structure of the porcine and human epidermis, we speculate that a similar mechanism functions in human skin. A better understanding of the underlying process could help improve medical care and outcomes for patients undergoing surgical reconstruction.

Ageing significantly impacts the biomechanical function and structural composition of skin

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Here, using non-invasive cutometry and ballistometry, we explore the consequences of ageing on the biomechanical function of skin in otherwise healthy White Northern European volunteers. Intrinsic skin ageing caused biomechanical decline; skin loses both resilience (P < 0.01) and elasticity (P < 0.001), which is characterised histologically by modest effacement of rete ridges (P < 0.05) and disorganisation of papillary dermal elastic fibres. At photoexposed sites, biomechanical testing identified significant loss of biomechanical function-particularly in the aged cohort. Photoaged forearm displayed severe loss of resilience (P < 0.001) and elasticity (P < 0.001); furthermore with repetitive testing, fatigue (P < 0.001), hysteresis (P < 0.001) and viscous "creep" (P < 0.001) were exacerbated. Histologically, both young and aged forearm displayed flattening of rete ridges and disruption to the arrangement of elastic fibres. We conclude that maintenance of skin architecture is inherently associated with optimal biomechanical properties. Modest perturbations to skin architecture-as exemplified by intrinsic ageing-result in moderate functional decline. Chronic sun exposure causes fundamental changes to the clinical and histological appearance of skin, and these are reflected by an extreme alteration in biomechanical function.