Redirecting drug repositioning to discover innovative cosmeceuticals

Components analysis of San-Bai decoction, and its pharmacodynamics and mechanism on preventing and treating melasma

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

San-Bai Decoction (SBD) is a classic whitening prescription originally recorded in the 'Introduction to Medicine' of the Ming Dynasty. SBD has been known for invigorating Qi and blood, promoting spleen and stomach, whitening skin, and fading melasma. However, its pharmacodynamic material basis and specific mechanism remain unclear.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The aim of this study is to clarify the pharmacodynamic material basis of SBD and its mechanism of removing melasma.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The positive and negative ion mass spectrum data of SBD extract were collected by UHPLC-Q-Exactive Orbitrap MS/MS, imported into Compound Discoverer (CD) 3.1 software, matched through the online database, and manually checked. Finally, the in vitro chemical components of SBD were classified. Similarly, the mass spectrum data of SBD in the serum of normal rats and melasma model rats were also analyzed by CD 3.1 software. The in vitro identified Compound file of SBD was imported into the Expected Compounds and the Generate Expected Compounds project was selected. The SBD compounds were then chosen under the Compound Section. All phase I and II reaction types related to SBD components were selected, and the metabolic platform of CD 3.1 software was utilized to process the results and obtain possible metabolites. The metabolites were scored and products with high scores were subsequently screened. According to literature comparison, the final metabolites of SBD in both normal rats and melasma model rats were determined and comprehensively analyzed. The Melasma model rats were constructed through intramuscular injection of progesterone and ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) irradiation. The preventing and treating effect of SBD on melasma were evaluated by regulating inflammation, epidermal collagen content, and oxidative stress. Additionally, the effect of SBD on the Phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/Protein kinase B (Akt)/Glycogen synthase kinase 3β (GSK3β) pathway was investigated through Western blot (WB) to explore its underlying mechanism on whitening and removing melasma efficacy.

RESULTS

Ultimately, 94 components were identified in SBD, including 41 flavonoids, 27 organic acids, and 9 glycosides, 3 terpenoids, 2 amides, 2 aldehydes, 1 phenylpropanoid and 9 other compounds. In the blood of normal rat group, a total of 24 prototype components and 61 metabolites were identified. Similarly, there were19 prototype components and 44 metabolites identified from the blood of melasma model rats. Pharmacodynamic experiment results indicated that SBD effectively reduced the incidence of melasma, prevent the loss of epidermal collagen, and elevate the activity of superoxide dismutase and decrease the malondialdehyde content in both liver and skin. Interestingly, the WB results demonstrated that SBD effectively activated PI3K/Akt/GSK3β pathway, and down-regulated the expression of melanin-related proteins.

CONCLUSIONS

For the first time, the components of SBD extracts, and its prototype components and metabolites in the blood of normal rats and melasma model rats were successfully identified by high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry with CD software. Additionally, the differences of in vivo components of SBD between normal rats and melasma model rats were analyzed. The preventive and therapeutic effect of SBD on melasma was verified in the melasma model rats induced by progesterone and UVB irradiation, and its mechanism was related to activating PI3K/Akt/GSK3β pathway and downregulating the expression of melanin-related proteins. These results provide an experimental foundation for further research on the pharmacodynamic substance basis and pharmacodynamic mechanism of SBD, as well as developing new anti-melasma formula with SBD.

Drug repurposing for regenerative medicine and cosmetics: Scientific, technological and economic issues

Regenerative medicine and cosmetics are currently two outstanding fields for drug discovery. Although many pharmaceutical products for regenerative medicine and cosmetics have received approval by official agencies, several challenges are still needed to overcome, especially financial and time issues. As a result, drug repositioning, which is the usage of previously approved drugs for new treatment, stands out as a promising approach to tackle these problems. Recently, increasing scientific evidence is collected to demonstrate the applicability of this novel method in the field of regenerative medicine and cosmetics. Experts in drug development have also taken advantage of novel technologies to discover new candidates for repositioning purposes following computational approach, one of two main approaches of drug repositioning. Therefore, numerous repurposed candidates have obtained approval to enter the market and have witnessed financial success such as minoxidil and fingolimod. The benefits of drug repositioning are undeniable for regenerative medicine and cosmetics. However, some aspects still need to be carefully considered regarding this method including actual effectiveness during clinical trials, patent regulations, data integration and analysis, publicly unavailable databases as well as environmental concerns and more effort are required to overcome these obstacles.

Outlier analysis for accelerating clinical discovery: An augmented intelligence framework and a systematic review

Clinical discoveries largely depend on dedicated clinicians and scientists to identify and pursue unique and unusual clinical encounters with patients and communicate these through case reports and case series. This process has remained essentially unchanged throughout the history of modern medicine. However, these traditional methods are inefficient, especially considering the modern-day availability of health-related data and the sophistication of computer processing. Outlier analysis has been used in various fields to uncover unique observations, including fraud detection in finance and quality control in manufacturing. We propose that clinical discovery can be formulated as an outlier problem within an augmented intelligence framework to be implemented on any health-related data. Such an augmented intelligence approach would accelerate the identification and pursuit of clinical discoveries, advancing our medical knowledge and uncovering new therapies and management approaches. We define clinical discoveries as contextual outliers measured through an information-based approach and with a novelty-based root cause. Our augmented intelligence framework has five steps: define a patient population with a desired clinical outcome, build a predictive model, identify outliers through appropriate measures, investigate outliers through domain content experts, and generate scientific hypotheses. Recognizing that the field of obstetrics can particularly benefit from this approach, as it is traditionally neglected in commercial research, we conducted a systematic review to explore how outlier analysis is implemented in obstetric research. We identified two obstetrics-related studies that assessed outliers at an aggregate level for purposes outside of clinical discovery. Our findings indicate that using outlier analysis in clinical research in obstetrics and clinical research, in general, requires further development.

Advances in the treatment of autosomal recessive congenital ichthyosis, a look towards the repositioning of drugs

Autosomal recessive congenital ichthyoses (ARCI) are a skin pathology due to genetic causes characterized by a variable degree of desquamation, accompanied by erythema. The degree of symptoms is variable, different altered genes are involved, and the symptoms drastically affect patients' quality of life. Topical treatments are a first-choice strategy due to their ease of application and cost; however, enteral administration of retinoids offers greater efficacy, although with certain limitations. Despite the treatment alternatives, ARCI will persist throughout life, disabling people. Therefore, the search for new treatments always remains necessary. Especially repositioning drugs could be a short-term alternative to new affordable treatments for patients. Taking advantage of extensive knowledge of known drugs or biologics could ensure more accessible and possibly lower-cost treatments. This review briefly and concisely addresses possible repositioning strategies with drugs and biologics for ichthyosis.

The Protective Role of Oleuropein Aglycone against Pesticide-Induced Toxicity in a Human Keratinocytes Cell Model

The extensive use of agricultural pesticides to improve crop quality and yield significantly increased the risk to the public of exposure to small but repeated doses of pesticides over time through various routes, including skin, by increasing the risk of disease outbreaks. Although much work was conducted to reduce the use of pesticides in agriculture, little attention was paid to prevention, which could reduce the toxicity of pesticide exposure by reducing its impact on human health. Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), a major component of the Mediterranean diet, exerts numerous health-promoting properties, many of which are attributed to oleuropein aglycone (OleA), the deglycosylated form of oleuropein, which is the main polyphenolic component of EVOO. In this work, three pesticides with different physicochemical and biological properties, namely oxadiazon (OXA), imidacloprid (IMID), and glyphosate (GLYPHO), were compared in terms of metabolic activity, mitochondrial function and epigenetic modulation in an in vitro cellular model of human HaCaT keratinocytes to mimic the pathway of dermal exposure. The potential protective effect of OleA against pesticide-induced cellular toxicity was then evaluated in a cell pre-treatment condition. This study showed that sub-lethal doses of OXA and IMID reduced the metabolic activity and mitochondrial functionality of HaCaT cells by inducing oxidative stress and altering intracellular calcium flux and caused epigenetic modification by reducing histone acetylation H3 and H4. GLYPHO, on the other hand, showed no evidence of cellular toxicity at the doses tested. Pretreatment of cells with OleA was able to protect cells from the damaging effects of the pesticides OXA and IMID by maintaining metabolic activity and mitochondrial function at a controlled level and preventing acetylation reduction, particularly of histone H3. In conclusion, the bioactive properties of OleA reported here could be of great pharmaceutical and health interest, as they could be further studied to design new formulations for the prevention of toxicity from exposure to pesticide use.

Heat-Killed Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 7469 Improved UVB-Induced Photoaging Via Antiwrinkle and Antimelanogenesis Impacts

Exposure of ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is the main factor from the environment to cause skin photoaging. Lactobacillus rhamnosus ATCC 7469, is a probiotic strain with a good track record for enhancing human health. The present study conducted the impacts of heat-killed L. rhamnosus ATCC 7469 (RL) on photoaging in vitro using mouse skin fibroblast (MSF) cells and human epidermal melanocytes (HEM) exposed to UVB. The results showed that (1) RL-protected UVB-induced cytotoxicity relating to absorb UVB and reduce DNA damage. (2) RL exerted the antiwrinkle impact involved in two aspects. Firstly, RL downregulated MMP-1, 2, 3 expressions associating with MAPK signaling, resulting in the increased the protein expression of COL1A1, further booting type I collagen abundant thereby promoting the antiwrinkle impact in MSF cells. Secondly, RL reduced ROS content, further decreasing oxidative damage relating to Nrf2/Sirt3/SOD2 signaling, thereby promoting the antiwrinkle impact in MSF cells. (3) RL suppressed tyrosinase and TYRP-2 activity and/or levels associating with PKA/CREB/MITF signaling, thereby promoting antimelanogenesis impact in HEM cells. In conclusion, our findings suggest that RL could reduce photoaging caused by UVB via antiwrinkle and antimelanogenesis properties and may be a potential antiphotoaging beneficial component, which is applied in the cosmetic industry.

Comparison between the Astaxanthin Release Profile of Mesoporous Bioactive Glass Nanoparticles (MBGNs) and Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBV)/MBGN Composite Microspheres

In recent years, composite biomaterials have attracted attention for drug delivery applications due to the possibility of combining desired properties of their components. However, some functional characteristics, such as their drug release efficiency and likely side effects, are still unexplored. In this regard, controlled tuning of the drug release kinetic via the precise design of a composite particle system is still of high importance for many biomedical applications. This objective can be properly fulfilled through the combination of different biomaterials with unequal release rates, such as mesoporous bioactive glass nanoparticles (MBGN) and poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBV) microspheres. In this work, MBGNs and PHBV-MBGN microspheres, both loaded with Astaxanthin (ASX), were synthesised and compared in terms of ASX release kinetic, ASX entrapment efficiency, and cell viability. Moreover, the correlation of the release kinetic to phytotherapeutic efficiency and side effects was established. Interestingly, there were significant differences between the ASX release kinetic of the developed systems, and cell viability differed accordingly after 72 h. Both particle carriers effectively delivered ASX, though the composite microspheres exhibited a more prolonged release profile with sustained cytocompatibility. The release behaviour could be fine-tuned by adjusting the MBGN content in the composite particles. Comparatively, the composite particles induced a different release effect, implying their potential for sustained drug delivery applications.

Antiphotoaging Effect of AGEs Blocker™ in UVB-Irradiated Cells and Skh:HR-1 Hairless Mice

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major cause of photoaging. It involves extrinsic aging, wrinkle formation, and skin dehydration, and leads to excessive production of active oxygen that adversely affects the skin. Here, we investigated the antiphotoaging effect of AGEs Blocker^TM (AB), which comprises Korean mint aerial part and fig and goji berry fruits. Compared to its individual components, AB was more potent at increasing the expression of collagen and hyaluronic acid and decreasing MMP-1 expression in UVB-irradiated Hs68 fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. In Skh:HR-1 hairless mice exposed to 60 mJ/cm² UVB for 12 weeks, oral administration of 20 or 200 mg/kg/day AB restored skin moisture by improving UVB-induced erythema, skin moisture, and transepidermal water loss, and alleviated photoaging by improving UVB-induced elasticity and wrinkles. Moreover, AB upregulated the mRNA levels of hyaluronic acid synthase and collagen-related Col1a1, Col3a1, and Col4a1 genes, increasing hyaluronic acid and collagen expression, respectively. AB inhibited UVB-induced MAPK and AP-1 (c-fos) activation, resulting in significantly downregulated expression of MMP-1 and -9, which are responsible for collagen degradation. AB also stimulated the expression and activity of antioxidative enzymes and reduced lipid peroxidation. Thus, AB is a potential preventive and therapeutic agent for photoaging.

Acenocoumarol, an Anticoagulant Drug, Prevents Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

Hyperpigmentation can occur in abnormal skin conditions such as melanomas, as well as in conditions including melasma, freckles, age spots, seborrheic keratosis, and café-au-lait spots (flat brown spots). Thus, there is an increasing need for the development of depigmenting agents. We aimed to repurpose an anticoagulant drug as an effective ingredient against hyperpigmentation and apply cosmeceutical agents. In the present study, the anti-melanogenic effects of two anticoagulant drugs, acenocoumarol and warfarin, were investigated. The results showed that both acenocoumarol and warfarin did not cause any cytotoxicity and resulted in a significant reduction in intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells. Additionally, acenocoumarol inhibits the expression of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2, suppressing melanin synthesis through a cAMP-dependent, protein kinase (PKA)-dependent downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a master transcription factor in melanogenesis. Furthermore, anti-melanogenic effects were exerted by acenocoumarol through downregulation of the p38 and JNK signaling pathway and upregulation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and phosphatidylinositol 3 kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt)/glycogen synthesis kinase-3β (GSK-3β) cascades. In addition, the β-catenin content in the cell cytoplasm and nucleus was increased by acenocoumarol through a reduction in the phosphorylated β-catenin (p-β-catenin content). Finally, we tested the potential of acenocoumarol for topical applications by conducting primary human skin irritation tests. Acenocoumarol did not induce any adverse reactions during these tests. Based on the results, it can be concluded that acenocoumarol regulates melanogenesis through various signaling pathways such as PKA, MAPKs, PI3K/Akt/GSK-3β, and β-catenin. These findings suggest that acenocoumarol has the potential to be repurposed as a drug for treating hyperpigmentation symptoms and could provide new insights into the development of therapeutic approaches for hyperpigmentation disorders.

The Skin-Whitening and Antioxidant Effects of Protocatechuic Acid (PCA) Derivatives in Melanoma and Fibroblast Cell Lines

The skin is the most voluminous organ of the human body and is exposed to the outer environment. Such exposed skin suffers from the effects of various intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. Skin aging is characterized by features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and skin pigmentation. Skin pigmentation occurs in skin aging and is caused by hyper-melanogenesis and oxidative stress. Protocatechuic acid (PCA) is a natural secondary metabolite from a plant-based source widely used as a cosmetic ingredient. We chemically designed and synthesized PCA derivatives conjugated with alkyl esters to develop effective chemicals that have skin-whitening and antioxidant effects and enhance the pharmacological activities of PCA. We identified that melanin biosynthesis in B16 melanoma cells treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) is decreased by PCA derivatives. We also found that PCA derivatives effectively have antioxidant effects in HS68 fibroblast cells. In this study, we suggest that our PCA derivatives are potent ingredients for developing cosmetics with skin-whitening and antioxidant effects.

Protopanaxadiol-Enriched Rice Extracts Suppressed Oxidative and Melanogenic Activities in Melan-a Cells

Concerns about hyperpigmentation and skin appearance have led to increasing research into the prevention and altering of skin pigmentation. Natural compounds may be of interest in the search for skin-lightening actives. Protopanaxadiol (PPD), a gut microbiome-induced ginseng metabolite, has been reported to have anti-melanogenic effects. This study aimed to evaluate the antioxidative and anti-melanogenic effects of PPD-enriched rice seed extracts on melan-a cells. The antioxidant and cytotoxicity activities of the extracts were investigated in melan-a cells before measuring their responses to melanogenic activities. The extracts significantly enhanced the antioxidant potency compared with normal rice seed extract. PPD-enriched rice seed extracts (i) significantly downregulated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, which led to a reduction in tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 and -2, (ii) decrease in the cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content, (iii) reduction in the number of melanin-containing cells, (iv) promotion of melanogenesis downregulators, phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2 and protein kinase B, and (v) downregulation of the phosphorylated p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase and melanin synthesis. These results indicate the feasibility of PPD-enriched rice seed extracts as a novel agent for suppressing melanogenesis and controlling hyperpigmentation.

Development of Verapamil Hydrochloride-loaded Biopolymer-based Composite Electrospun Nanofibrous Mats: In vivo Evaluation of Enhanced Burn Wound Healing without Scar Formation

Introduction

Researchers aim for new heights in wound healing to produce wound dressings with unique features. Natural, synthetic, biodegradable, and biocompatible polymers especially in the nanoscale are being employed to support and provide efficient wound management. Economical and environmentally friendly sustainable wound management alternatives are becoming an urgent issue to meet future needs. Nanofibrous mats possess unique properties for ideal wound healing. They mimic the physical structure of the natural extracellular matrix (ECM), promote hemostasis, and gas permeation. Their interconnected nanoporosity prevents wound dehydration and microbial infiltration.

Purpose

To prepare and evaluate a novel verapamil HCl-loaded environmentally friendly composite, with biopolymer-based electrospun nanofibers suitable for application as wound dressings providing adequate wound healing with no scar formation.

Methods

Composite nanofibers were prepared by electrospinning of a blend of the natural biocompatible polymers, sodium alginate (SA) or zein (Z) together with polyvinyl alcohol (PVA). Composite nanofibers were characterized in terms of morphology, diameter, drug entrapment efficiency, and release. In vivo study of the therapeutic efficacy of verapamil HCl-loaded nanofibers on a Sprague Dawley rat model with dermal burn wound was investigated in terms of percent wound closure, and presence of scars.

Results

Combining PVA with SA or Z improved the electrospinnability and properties of the developed nanofibers. Verapamil HCl-loaded composite nanofibers showed good pharmaceutical attributes favorable for wound healing including, fiber diameter ∼150 nm, high entrapment efficiency (∼80-100%) and biphasic controlled drug release for 24 h. In vivo study demonstrated promising potentials for wound healing without scaring.

Conclusion

The developed nanofibrous mats combined the beneficial properties of the biopolymers and verapamil HCl to provide an increased functionality by exploiting the unique advantages of nanofibers in wound healing at a small dose proved to be insufficient in case of the conventional dosage form.

Heat-Killed Lacticaseibacillus paracasei Ameliorated UVB-Induced Oxidative Damage and Photoaging and Its Underlying Mechanisms

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is a major environmental causative factor of skin oxidative damage and photoaging. Lacticaseibacillus paracasei is a well-known probiotic strain that can regulate skin health. The present study investigated the effects of heat-killed Lacticaseibacillus paracasei (PL) on UVB linked oxidative damage and photoaging in skin cells (Normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) cells and B16F10 murine melanoma cells). Results demonstrated that: (1) PL prevented UVB-induced cytotoxicity relating to decreased DNA damage in NHDF and B16F10 cells; (2) PL alleviated UVB-induced oxidative damage through increasing GSH content, as well as antioxidant enzyme activities and mRNA levels (except MnSOD activity and mRNA levels as well as CAT mRNA level) relating to the activation of Sirt1/PGC-1α/Nrf2 signaling in NHDF cells; (3) PL attenuated UVB-induced photoaging was noticed with a decrease in the percentage of SA-β-gal positive cells in NHDF cells model. Moreover, PL attenuated UVB-induced photoaging through exerting an anti-wrinkling effect by enhancing the type I collagen level relating to the inhibition (JNK, p38)/(c-Fos, c-Jun) of signaling in NHDF cells, and exerting an anti-melanogenic effect by suppressing tyrosinase and TYRP-1 activity and/or expressions relating to the inhibition of PKA/CREB/MITF signaling in B16F10 cells. In conclusion, PL could ameliorate UVB-induced oxidative damage and photoaging. Therefore, PL may be a potential antioxidant and anti-photoaging active ingredient for the cosmetic industry.

Anti-Melanogenesis and Photoprotective Effects of Ecklonia maxima Extract Containing Dieckol and Eckmaxol

Seaweeds are potential ingredients in the cosmeceutical industry. Our previous study demonstrates that the phlorotannin-enriched extract of Ecklonia maxima (EME-EA) containing dieckol and eckmaxol possesses strong anti-inflammatory activity and suggests the cosmeceutical potential of EME-EA. In order to evaluate the cosmeceutical potential of EME-EA, the anti-melanogenesis and photoprotective effects of EME-EA were investigated in this study. EME-EA remarkably inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and melanogenesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, EME-EA significantly suppressed UVB-induced HaCaT cell death that was consistent with inhibition of apoptosis and reduction in scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species. Furthermore, EME-EA significantly inhibited collagen degradation and matrix metalloproteinases expression in UVB-irradiated HDF cells in a concentration-dependent manner. These results indicate that EME-EA possesses strong anti-melanogenesis and photoprotective activities and suggest EME-EA is an ideal ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Nicotinamide Mononucleotide and Coenzyme Q10 Protects Fibroblast Senescence Induced by Particulate Matter Preconditioned Mast Cells

Particulate matter (PM) pollutants impose a certain degree of destruction and toxicity to the skin. Mast cells in the skin dermis could be activated by PMs that diffuse across the blood vessel after being inhaled. Mast cell degranulation in the dermis provides a kind of inflammatory insult to local fibroblasts. In this study, we evaluated human dermal fibroblast responses to conditioned medium from KU812 cells primed with PM. We found that PM promoted the production of proinflammatory cytokines in mast cells and that the cell secretome induced reactive oxygen species and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species production in dermal fibroblasts. Nicotinamide mononucleotide or coenzyme Q10 alleviated the generation of excessive ROS and mitochondrial ROS induced by the conditioned medium from PM-activated KU812 cells. PM-conditioned medium treatment increased the NF-κB expression in dermal fibroblasts, whereas NMN or Q10 inhibited p65 upregulation by PM. The reduced sirtuin 1 (SIRT 1) and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related Factor 2 (Nrf2) expression induced by PM-conditioned medium was reversed by NMN or Q10 in HDFs. Moreover, NMN or Q10 attenuated the expression of senescent β-galactosidase induced by PM-conditioned KU812 cell medium. These findings suggest that NMN or Q10 ameliorates PM-induced inflammation by improving the cellular oxidative status, suppressing proinflammatory NF-κB, and promoting the levels of the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory regulators Nrf2 and SIRT1 in HDFs. The present observations help to understand the factors that affect HDFs in the dermal microenvironment and the therapeutic role of NMN and Q10 as suppressors of skin aging.

Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Spiramycin in LPS-Activated RAW 264.7 Macrophages

Drug repurposing is a simple concept with a long history, and is a paradigm shift that can significantly reduce the costs and accelerate the process of bringing a new small-molecule drug into clinical practice. We attempted to uncover a new application of spiramycin, an old medication that was classically prescribed for toxoplasmosis and various other soft-tissue infections; specifically, we initiated a study on the anti-inflammatory capacity of spiramycin. For this purpose, we used murine macrophage RAW 264.7 as a model for this experiment and investigated the anti-inflammatory effects of spiramycin by inhibiting the production of pro-inflammatory mediators and cytokines. In the present study, we demonstrated that spiramycin significantly decreased nitric oxide (NO), interleukin (IL)-1β, and IL-6 levels in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells. Spiramycin also inhibited the expression of NO synthase (iNOS), potentially explaining the spiramycin-induced decrease in NO production. In addition, spiramycin inhibited the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs); extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and c-Jun N terminal kinase (JNK) as well as the inactivation and subsequent nuclear translocation of nuclear factor κB (NF-κB). This indicated that spiramycin attenuates macrophages’ secretion of IL-6, IL-1β, and NO, inducing iNOS expression via the inhibition of the NF-κB and MAPK signaling pathways. Finally, we tested the potential application of spiramycin as a topical material by human skin primary irritation tests. It was performed on the normal skin (upper back) of 31 volunteers to determine whether 100 μM and μM of spiramycin had irritation or sensitization potential. In these assays, spiramycin did not induce any adverse reactions. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that spiramycin can effectively attenuate the activation of macrophages, suggesting that spiramycin could be a potential candidate for drug repositioning as a topical anti-inflammatory agent.

Effects of Sphingomyelin-Containing Milk Phospholipids on Skin Hydration in UVB-Exposed Hairless Mice

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by ultraviolet (UV) exposure cause skin barrier dysfunction, which leads to dry skin. In this study, the skin moisturizing effect of sphingomyelin-containing milk phospholipids in UV-induced hairless mice was evaluated. Hairless mice were irradiated with UVB for eight weeks, and milk phospholipids (50, 100, and 150 mg/kg) were administered daily. Milk phospholipids suppressed UV-induced increase in erythema and skin thickness, decreased transepidermal water loss, and increased skin moisture. Milk phospholipids increased the expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and aquaporin3 (AQP3), which are skin moisture-related factors. Additionally, hyaluronic acid (HA) content in the skin tissue was maintained by regulating the expression of HA synthesis- and degradation-related enzymes. Milk phospholipids alleviated UV-induced decrease in the expression of the antioxidant enzymes superoxidase dismutase1 and 2, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase1. Moreover, ROS levels were reduced by regulating heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), an ROS regulator, through milk phospholipid-mediated activation of nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2). Collectively, sphingomyelin-containing milk phospholipids contributed to moisturizing the skin by maintaining HA content and reducing ROS levels in UVB-irradiated hairless mice, thereby, minimizing damage to the skin barrier caused by photoaging.

Reconstructing the epidermal proteolytic cascades in health and disease

The epidermis is the outer stratified epithelium of the skin, forming the physical barrier that is indispensable for homeostasis. Epidermal proteolysis, mainly but not exclusively executed by kallikrein-related peptidases (KLKs), is tightly regulated to ensure maintenance of physiological skin renewal and an intact skin barrier. Perturbation of epidermal proteolytic networks is implicated in a wide array of rare and common skin pathologies of diverse genetic backgrounds. Recent studies of monogenic human skin diseases and newly developed animal models have revealed new mechanisms of regulation of proteolytic pathways in epidermal physiology and in disease states. These new data have challenged some accepted views, for example the role of matriptase in epidermal desquamation, which turned out to be restricted to mouse skin. The significance of PAR2 signaling in skin inflammation should also be reconsidered in the face of recent findings. Cumulatively, recent studies necessitate a sophisticated redefinition of the proteolytic and signaling pathways that operate in human skin. We elaborate how epidermal proteolysis is finely regulated at multiple levels, and in a spatial manner that was not taken into consideration so far, in which specific proteases are confined to distinct epidermal sublayers. Of interest, transglutaminases have emerged as regulators of epidermal proteolysis and desquamation by spatially fixing endogenous protease inhibitors, constituting regulatory factors that were not recognized before. Furthermore, new evidence suggests a link between proteolysis and lipid metabolism. By synthesis of established notions and recent discoveries, we provide an up-to-date critical parathesis of current knowledge and the extended complexity of proteolysis regulation and signaling pathways in skin. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Novel Antioxidant Peptides from Crassostrea Hongkongensis Improve Photo-Oxidation in UV-Induced HaCaT Cells

Enzymatic hydrolysates from Oysters (OAH) display multiple biological activities. Previously, a 3~5 KDa oyster ultrafiltration component (OUP) showed a high property of preventing skin oxidation. Subsequently, we identified specific peptides with such activity. OUP was fractionated stepwise by Sephadex-G25 and RP-HPLC, and active fractions were screened using UV-irradiated HaCaT cells. The most active fractions (OP5-3) were analyzed by LC-MS/MS and a total of 17 peptides were identified. Results from mass spectrometry showed that OP5-3 consisted of peptides with a molecular weight range of 841.51–1786.92 Da. Six of these peptides were synthesized for validating the activity of resisting skin oxidation in the same cell model. All six peptides showed varying degrees of antioxidant activity, while pretreatment of HaCaT cells with AIVAEVNEAAK alleviated UV cytotoxicity, inhibited metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) expression, and showed the highest activity to resist UV-induced skin photo-oxidation among these peptides. In addition, results from molecular docking analysis of MMP-1 with AIVAEVNEAAK showed that AIVAEVNEAAK suppresses its enzymatic activity by directly interacting with MMP-1 and thus exhibit anti-photoaging activity.

Genetic and Epigenetic Aspects of Skin Collagen Fiber Turnover and Functioning

One of the most important functions of the skin, i.e., protection from mechanical damage, is ensured by collagen fibers and their interaction with other elements in the extracellular matrix. Collagen fiber turnover is a complex multi-stage process. At each stage, a disruption may occur, leading to a decrease in the mechanical properties of the connective tissue. Clinically, collagen formation disorders manifest themselves as increased flabbiness and looseness of the skin and as early signs of facial aging. In addition to the clinical picture, it is important for cosmetologists and dermatologists to understand the etiology and pathogenesis of collagenopathies. In our review, we summarized and systematized the available information concerning the role of genetic and epigenetic factors in skin collagen fiber turnover. Furthermore, we focused on the functions of different types of collagens present in the skin. Understanding the etiology of impaired collagen formation can allow doctors to prescribe pathogenetically based treatments, achieve the most effective results, and minimize adverse reactions.

Echinochrome A Protects against Ultraviolet B-induced Photoaging by Lowering Collagen Degradation and Inflammatory Cell Infiltration in Hairless Mice

Echinochrome A (Ech A, 7-ethyl-2,3,5,6,8-pentahydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) has been known to exhibit anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. However, no study has been carried out on the efficacy of Ech A against skin photoaging; this process is largely mediated by oxidative stress. Six-week-old male SKH-1 hairless mice (n = 36) were divided into five groups. Except for a group that were not treated (n = 4), all mice underwent ultraviolet-B (UVB) exposure for 8 weeks while applying phosphate-buffered saline or Ech A through intraperitoneal injection. UVB impaired skin barrier function, showing increased transepidermal water loss and decreased stratum corneum hydration. UVB induced dermal collagen degeneration and mast cell infiltration. Ech A injection was found to significantly lower transepidermal water loss while attenuating tissue inflammatory changes and collagen degeneration compared to the control. Furthermore, Ech A was found to decrease the relative expression of matrix metalloproteinase, tryptase, and chymase. Taken together, these results suggest that Ech A protects against UVB-induced photoaging in both functional and histologic aspects, causing a lowering of collagen degradation and inflammatory cell infiltration.

Astaxanthin Delivery Systems for Skin Application: A Review

Astaxanthin (AST) is a biomolecule known for its powerful antioxidant effect, which is considered of great importance in biochemical research and has great potential for application in cosmetics, as well as food products that are beneficial to human health and medicines. Unfortunately, its poor solubility in water, chemical instability, and low oral bioavailability make its applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical field a major challenge for the development of new products. To favor the search for alternatives to enhance and make possible the use of AST in formulations, this article aimed to review the scientific data on its application in delivery systems. The search was made in databases without time restriction, using keywords such as astaxanthin, delivery systems, skin, cosmetic, topical, and dermal. All delivery systems found, such as liposomes, particulate systems, inclusion complexes, emulsions, and films, presented peculiar advantages able to enhance AST properties, among which are stability, antioxidant potential, biological activities, and drug release. This survey showed that further studies are needed for the industrial development of new AST-containing cosmetics and topical formulations.

Generation of a quenched phosphonate activity-based probe for labelling the active KLK7 protease

Kallikrein 7 (KLK7) is a chymotrypsin-like serine protease with established roles in skin diseases like the rare Netherton syndrome, an overdesquamating and inflammatory condition, but also common atopic dermatitis, and a potential drug target for these and possibly other diseases. Nevertheless, tools to determine the active KLK7 enzyme are not available. Here, a mixed alkyl aryl phosphonate quenched activity-based probe that detects the active KLK7 was developed and evaluated in vitro. This KLK7-qABP can potentially be used to monitor KLK7 activity in vivo.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

From Sea to Skin: Is There a Future for Natural Photoprotectants?

In the last few decades, the thinning of the ozone layer due to increased atmospheric pollution has exacerbated the negative effects of excessive exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR), and skin cancer has become a major public health concern. In order to prevent skin damage, public health advice mainly focuses on the use of sunscreens, along with wearing protective clothing and avoiding sun exposure during peak hours. Sunscreens present on the market are topical formulations that contain a number of different synthetic, organic, and inorganic UVR filters with different absorbance profiles, which, when combined, provide broad UVR spectrum protection. However, increased evidence suggests that some of these compounds cause subtle damage to marine ecosystems. One alternative may be the use of natural products that are produced in a wide range of marine species and are mainly thought to act as a defense against UVR-mediated damage. However, their potential for human photoprotection is largely under-investigated. In this review, attention has been placed on the molecular strategies adopted by marine organisms to counteract UVR-induced negative effects and we provide a broad portrayal of the recent literature concerning marine-derived natural products having potential as natural sunscreens/photoprotectants for human skin. Their chemical structure, UVR absorption properties, and their pleiotropic role as bioactive molecules are discussed. Most studies strongly suggest that these natural products could be promising for use in biocompatible sunscreens and may represent an alternative eco-friendly approach to protect humans against UV-induced skin damage.

Effects of Eggshell Membrane on Keratinocyte Differentiation and Skin Aging In Vitro and In Vivo

Skin aging is one of the hallmarks of the aging process that causes physiological and morphological changes. Recently, several nutritional studies were conducted to delay or suppress the aging process. This study investigated whether nutritional supplementation of the eggshell membrane (ESM) has a beneficial effect on maintaining skin health and improving the skin aging process in vitro using neonatal normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK-Neo) and in vivo using interleukin-10 knockout (IL-10 KO) mice. In NHEK-Neo cells, 1 mg/mL of enzymatically hydrolyzed ESM (eESM) upregulated the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers, including keratin 1, filaggrin and involucrin, and changed the keratinocyte morphology. In IL-10 KO mice, oral supplementation of 8% powdered-ESM (pESM) upregulated the expression of growth factors, including transforming growth factor β1, platelet-derived growth factor-β and connective tissue growth factor, and suppressed skin thinning. Furthermore, voltage-gated calcium channel, transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V members were upregulated by eESM treatment in NHEK-Neo cells and pESM supplementation in IL-10 KO mice. Collectively, these data suggest that ESM has an important role in improving skin health and aging, possibly via upregulating calcium signaling.

The Anti-Ageing and Whitening Potential of a Cosmetic Serum Containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid

Skin ageing has many manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Extrinsic and intrinsic factors, especially solar ultraviolet light (UVB), contribute to skin ageing; its main features are brown spots, alterations in melanin pigmentation, and a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid linked to oxidative stress. Several studies showed that topical products containing ingredients with antioxidant activity can reduce oxidative damage; to provide a maximum anti-ageing effect to the skin, topical products can combine various ingredients. C-SHOT SERUM contains a combination of two molecules with a proven anti-ageing activity: a high percentage (30%) of a more stable vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, and lactic acid (1%). The product showed a high biocompatibility, assessed through an MTT assay on keratinocytes and on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE, SkinEthic); the anti-ageing activity was demonstrated on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes by a statistically significant increase in collagen production and a reduction of a UVB-induced DNA damage marker (γ-H2AX histone), indicating DNA protection. Moreover, a depigmenting activity, shown by a highly significant decrease in melanin content on treated Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), was assessed. According to the data of our study, the tested product contrasts the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the physiological decline of the skin.