Predicting skin penetration of actives from complex cosmetic formulations: an evaluation of inter formulation and inter active effects during formulation optimization for transdermal delivery

Human epidermal in vitro permeation test (IVPT) analyses of alcohols and steroids

This study examined a number of factors that can impact the outcomes of in vitro human epidermal permeation coefficients for aliphatic alcohols and steroids, including receptor phase composition and study conditions. We determined experimentally the solubilities and IVPT permeation of a homologous series of ¹⁴C labeled aliphatic alcohols (ethanol, propanol, pentanol, heptanol, octanol and decanol) in different receptor fluids as recommended by Organisation Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD). We used human epidermal membranes at 25°C and phosphate-buffered saline (PBS), 2% w/v bovine serum albumin (2%w/v BSA), 50% v/v ethanol and 0.1, 2 and 6% w/v Oleth-20 receptor phases. We also explored and confirmed the discrepancies between in vitro human epidermal permeability coefficients (k_p) and diffusion lag times for steroids from Scheuplein's group with our own work and that of others. The main reason for the observed differences is not clear but is likely to be multifactorial, including the effects of diffusion cell design, receptor phase solubility, unstirred receptor phase effects, epidermal membrane hydration, diffusion cell configuration, transport through appendageal pathways and steroid lipophilicity. We conclude with a summary of experimental conditions that should be considered in undertaking IVPT studies.

A Mathematical Approach Using Strat-M® to Predict the Percutaneous Absorption of Chemicals under Finite Dose Conditions

Estimation of the percutaneous absorption is essential for the safety assessment of cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical products. Currently, an artificial membrane, Strat-M^®, has been focused on as the tool which could obtain the permeation parameters close to the skin-derived values. Nevertheless, few practical methodologies using the permeation parameters for assessing percutaneous absorption under in-use conditions are available. In the present study, based on Fick's first law of diffusion, a novel mathematical model incorporating the permeation parameters as well as considering the water evaporation (T_eva) was constructed. Then, to evaluate the applicability domain of our model in the case where Strat-M^®-derived parameters were used, the permeation parameters were compared between the skin from edible porcine and Strat-M^®. Regarding chemicals (-0.2 ≤ Log K_ow ≤ 2.0), their permeation profiles were equivalent between Strat-M^® and porcine skin. Therefore, for these chemicals, the percutaneous absorption was calculated using our model with the permeation parameters obtained using Strat-M^® and the T_eva determined by measuring the solution weight. The calculated values revealed a good correlation to the values obtained using porcine skin in finite dose experiments, suggesting that our mathematical approach with Strat-M^® would be useful for the future safety assessment of cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical products.

The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare

The role of cosmetic products is rapidly evolving in our society, with their use increasingly seen as an essential contribution to personal wellness. This suggests the necessity of a detailed elucidation of the use of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics. The aim of the present work is to offer a critical and comprehensive review discussing the impact of exploiting nanomaterials in advanced cosmetic formulations, emphasizing the beneficial effects of their extensive use in next-generation products despite a persisting prejudice around the application of nanotechnology in cosmetics. The discussion here includes an interpretation of the data underlying generic information reported on the product labels of formulations already available in the marketplace, information that often lacks details identifying specific components of the product, especially when nanomaterials are employed. The emphasis of this review is mainly focused on skincare because it is believed to be the cosmetics market sector in which the impact of nanotechnology is being seen most significantly. To date, nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the performance of cosmetics in a number of different ways: 1) increasing both the entrapment efficiency and dermal penetration of the active ingredient, 2) controlling drug release, 3) enhancing physical stability, 4) improving moisturizing power, and 5) providing better UV protection. Specific attention is paid to the effect of nanoparticles contained in semisolid formulations on skin penetration issues. In light of the emerging concerns about nanoparticle toxicity, an entire section has been devoted to listing detailed examples of nanocosmetic products for which safety has been investigated.

Assessment of Finite and Infinite Dose In Vitro Experiments in Transdermal Drug Delivery

Penetration, usually with finite dosing, provides data about the total active amount in the skin and permeation, being the most used methodology, usually with infinite dosing, leads to data about pharmacokinetic parameters. The main objective of this work is to assess if results from permeation, most of them at finite dose, may be equivalent to those from penetration usually at infinite dose. The transdermal behavior of four drugs with different physicochemical properties (diclofenac sodium, ibuprofen, lidocaine, and caffeine) was studied using penetration/finite and kinetic permeation/infinite dose systems using vertical Franz diffusion cells to determine the relationships between permeation and penetration profiles. Good correlation of these two in vitro assays is difficult to find; the influence of their dosage and the proportion of different ionized/unionized compounds due to the pH of the skin layers was demonstrated. Finite and infinite dose regimens have different applications in transdermal delivery. Each approach presents its own advantages and challenges. Pharmaceutical industries are not always clear about the method and the dose to use to determine transdermal drug delivery. Being aware that this study presents results for four actives with different physicochemical properties, it can be concluded that the permeation/infinite results could not be always extrapolated to those of penetration/finite. Differences in hydrophilicity and ionization of drugs can significantly influence the lack of equivalence between the two methodologies. Further investigations in this field are still needed to study the correlation of the two methodologies and the main properties of the drugs that should be taken into account.

Prediction of skin permeation and concentration of rhododendrol applied as finite dose from complex cosmetic vehicles

Finite dose experiments represent clinical use wherein depletion of dose, evaporation of excipients, and gradual change in vehicle composition may occur. In the present study, we attempted a mathematical approach for predicting skin permeation and concentration of a cosmetic active, rhododendrol (RD), from complex vehicle-based formulations applied in finite dose. In vitro skin permeation and concentration studies of RD were conducted from formulations containing water and polyols with concentrations ranging from 10 to 100% under infinite and finite dose conditions using vertical Franz diffusion cells. Observed data for skin permeation and the viable epidermis and dermis (VED) concentration of RD were estimated by the differential equations under Fick's second law of diffusion together with water evaporation kinetics and changes in the partition coefficient from vehicles to the stratum corneum. As a result, a goodness-of-fit was observed allowing accurate estimation of skin permeation and VED concentration of RD. This mathematical approach could become a useful tool to estimate the skin permeation and concentration of actives from topical formulation applied in finite dose conditions likened in actual use.

Computer-based formulation design and optimization using Hansen solubility parameters to enhance the delivery of ibuprofen through the skin

Trial-and-error approach to formulation development is long and costly. With growing time and cost pressures in the pharmaceutical industry, the need for computer-based formulation design is greater than ever. In this project, emulgels were designed and optimized using Formulating for Efficacy™ (FFE) for the topical delivery of ibuprofen. FFE helped select penetration enhancers, design and optimize emulgels and simulate skin penetration studies. pH, viscosity, spreadability, droplet size and stability of emulgels were evaluated. Franz cell studies were performed to test in vitro drug release on regenerated cellulose membrane, drug permeation in vitro on Strat-M® membrane and ex vivo on porcine ear skin, a marketed ibuprofen gel served as control. Emulgels had skin compatible pH, viscosity and spreadability comparable to a marketed emulgel, were opaque and stable at 25 °C for 6 months. Oleyl alcohol (OA), combined with either dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) or diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (DGME) provided the highest permeation in 24 h in vitro, which was significantly higher than the marketed product (p < 0.01). OA + DGME significantly outperformed OA ex vivo (p < 0.05). The computer predictions, in vitro and ex vivo penetration results correlated well. FFE was a fast, valuable and reliable tool for aiding in topical product design for ibuprofen.

Mechanistic Evaluation of Hydration Effects on the Human Epidermal Permeation of Salicylate Esters

We sought to understand when and how hydration enhances the percutaneous absorption of salicylate esters. Human epidermal membrane fluxes and stratum corneum solubilities of neat and diluted solutions of three esters were determined under hydrated and dehydrated conditions. Hydration doubled the human epidermal flux seen for methyl and ethyl salicylate under dehydrated conditions and increased the flux of neat glycol salicylate 10-fold. Mechanistic analyses showed that this hydration-induced enhancement arises mainly from an increase in the stratum corneum diffusivity of the three esters. Further, we showed that unlike methyl and ethyl salicylate, glycol salicylate is hygroscopic and the ∼10-fold hydration-induced flux enhancement seen with neat glycol salicylate may be due to its ability to hydrate the stratum corneum to a greater extent. The hydration-induced enhancements in in vitro epidermal flux seen here for glycol and ethyl salicylate were similar to those reported for their percutaneous absorption rates in a comparable in vivo study, whilst somewhat higher enhancement was seen for methyl salicylate in vivo. This may be explained by a physiologically induced self enhancement of neat methyl salicylate absorption in vivo which is not applicable in vitro.

Topical therapies for skin cancer and actinic keratosis

The global incidence of skin cancer and actinic keratosis (AK) has increased dramatically in recent years. Although many tumours are treated with surgery or radiotherapy topical therapy has a place in the management of certain superficial skin neoplasms and AK. This review considers skin physiology, non-melanoma skin cancer (NMSC), the relationship between AK and skin cancer and drugs administered topically for these conditions. The dermal preparations for management of NMSC and AK are discussed in detail. Notably few studies have examined drug disposition in cancerous skin or in AK. Finally, recent novel approaches for targeting of drugs to skin neoplasms and AK are discussed.

Nanoparticles as multifunctional devices for the topical treatment of cutaneous leishmaniasis

INTRODUCTION

Cutaneous and mucocutaneous leishmaniasis are major tropical skin diseases. Topical treatment is currently limited to the least severe forms of cutaneous leishmaniasis (CL) without risk of dissemination. It is also recommended in combination with systemic therapy for more severe forms. Progresses in this modality of treatment are hindered by the heterogeneity of the disease and shortcomings in the clinical trials.

AREAS COVERED

This review overlooks three major modalities of topical therapies in use or under investigation against CL: chemotherapy, photodynamic therapy and immunotherapy; either with older compounds such as paramomycin or more recent nitric oxide donors, antimicrobial peptides or silver derivatives. The advantages and limitations of their administration with newer formulation strategies such as nanoparticles (NPs) are discussed.

EXPERT OPINION

The efficacy of a topical treatment against CL depends not only on the intrinsic antileishmanial activity of the drug but also on the amount of drug available in the dermis. NPs as sustained release systems and permeation enhancers could favour the creation of a drug reservoir in the dermis. Additionally, certain NPs have immunomodulatory properties or wound healing capabilities of benefit in CL treatment. Pending task is the selective delivery of active compounds to intracellular amastigotes, because even small NPs are unable to penetrate deeply into the skin to encounter infected macrophages (except in ulcerative lesions).

Concentration dependency in nicotine skin penetration flux from aqueous solutions reflects vehicle induced changes in nicotine stratum corneum retention

PURPOSE

This study sought to understand the mechanism by which the steady state flux of nicotine across the human skin from aqueous solutions is markedly decreased at higher nicotine concentrations.

METHODS

Nicotine's steady state flux through human epidermis and its amount in the stratum corneum for a range of aqueous nicotine solutions was determined using Franz diffusion cells, with the nicotine analysed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Nicotine's thermodynamic activity in the various solutions was estimated from its partial vapour pressure and stratum corneum hydration was determined using a corneometer. The amount of nicotine retained in the stratum corneum was estimated from the nicotine amount found in individual stratum corneum tape strips and a D-Squame determined weight for each strip.

RESULTS

The observed steady state flux of nicotine across human epidermis was found to show a parabolic dependence on nicotine concentration, with the flux proportional to its thermodynamic activity up to a concentration of 48% w/w. The nicotine retention in the stratum corneum showed a similar dependency on concentration whereas the diffusivity of nicotine in the stratum corneum appeared to be concentration independent. This retention, in turn, could be estimated from the extent of stratum corneum hydration and the nicotine concentration in the applied solution and volume of water in the skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Nonlinear dependency of nicotine skin flux on its concentration results from a dehydration induced decrease in its stratum corneum retention at higher concentration and not dehydration induced changes nicotine diffusivity in the stratum corneum.

Rapid determination of hexapeptides by hydrophilic interaction LC–MS/MS for in vitro skin-penetration studies

Background: A sensitive analytical method is needed for assessing penetration of topically applied peptides for in vitro skin-penetration studies. Results: A rapid hydrophilic interaction LC (HILIC)–MS/MS method for analyzing the polar peptides Ac-EEMQRR-amide and H2N-EEMQRR-amide in various skin layers and matrices has been developed and evaluated. The matrices included emulsion, receptor fluids, cotton-tipped applicators, stratum corneum tape strips, epidermis and dermis of the skin. Stable isotopically labeled analogues were used as internal standards to correct for recovery and matrix effects. A HILIC-SPE procedure was optimized to minimize significant ion suppression in the more complex matrices. Conclusion: This HILIC–MS/MS method is applicable to the determination of Ac-EEMQRR-amide and H2N-EEMQRR-amide in complex skin samples and other matrices generated during in vitro skin-penetration studies.