The physical chemistry of the stratum corneum lipids

The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Skin Barrier Fine Tuning through Low-Temperature Lipid Chain Transition

The lipids in the mammalian stratum corneum (SC) adopt an unusually rigid arrangement to form a vital barrier preventing water loss and harmful environmental impacts. Just above the physiological temperature, a subset of barrier lipids undergoes a phase transition from a very tight orthorhombic to a looser hexagonal arrangement and vice versa. The purpose of this lipid transition in skin physiology is unknown. Permeability experiments on isolated human SC indicated that the transition affects the activation energy for a model compound that prefers lateral movement along lipid layers but not for water or a large polymer that would cross the SC through the pore pathway. The orthorhombic phase content of SC lipids, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, was also modulated by (de)hydration. Spontaneous rearrangement of human SC lipid monolayers into 10 nm higher multilamellar islets at 32-37 °C but not at room temperature was revealed by atomic force microscopy. Our findings add to our knowledge of fundamental skin physiology suggesting a fine temperature- and hydration-controlled switch from fluid lipids (required for lipid barrier assembly) to rigid and tightly packed lipids in the mature SC (necessary for the water and permeability barriers).

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.

RESULTS

Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin.

CONCLUSION

Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Baricitinib Lipid-Based Nanosystems as a Topical Alternative for Atopic Dermatitis Treatment

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic autoimmune inflammatory skin disorder which causes a significant clinical problem due to its prevalence. The ongoing treatment for AD is aimed at improving the patient's quality of life. Additionally, glucocorticoids or immunosuppressants are being used in systemic therapy. Baricitinib (BNB) is a reversible Janus-associated kinase (JAK)-inhibitor; JAK is an important kinase involved in different immune responses. We aimed at developing and evaluating new topical liposomal formulations loaded with BNB for the treatment of flare ups. Three liposomal formulations were elaborated using POPC (1-palmitoyl-2-oleoyl-glycero-3-phosphocholine), CHOL (Cholesterol) and CER (Ceramide) in different proportions: (i) POPC, (ii) POPC:CHOL (8:2, mol/mol) and (iii) POPC:CHOL:CER (3.6:2.4:4.0 mol/mol/mol). They were physiochemically characterized over time. In addition, an in vitro release study, ex vivo permeation and retention studies in altered human skin (AHS) were also performed. Histological analysis was used to study the tolerance of the formulations on the skin. Lastly, the HET-CAM test was also performed to evaluate the irritancy capacity of the formulations, and the modified Draize test was performed to evaluate the erythema and edema capacity of the formulations on the altered skin. All liposomes showed good physicochemical properties and were stable for at least one month. POPC:CHOL:CER had the highest flux and permeation, and the retention in the skin was equal to that of POPC:CHOL. The formulations exhibited no harmful or irritating effects, and the histological examination revealed no changes in structure. The three liposomes have shown promising results for the aim of the study.

Comparative analysis of intercellular lipid organization and composition between psoriatic and healthy stratum corneum

The lipid composition and organization of the stratum corneum (SC) in patients with psoriasis and healthy subjects were compared using X-ray diffraction, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and ultraperformance liquid chromatography, combined with time-of-flight mass spectrometry(UPLC-TOFMS). In healthy SC (HSC), SC lipids formed two lamellar phases (long and short periodicity phases). Hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing were observed in the lateral lipid organization at 30°C via X-ray diffraction. In HSC, the lamellar phases and the hydrocarbon-chain packing organizations changed with elevated temperatures and finally disappeared. In these behaviors, the high-temperature hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, which appeared above the orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, transformed to the liquid phase at about 90°C in HSC and at about 65°C in psoriatic SC (PSC). Therefore, PSC undergoes a structural transformation at a lower temperature than HSC. Disorder of the hydrocarbon-chain packing of SC lipids was also observed in PSC via FT-IR. In UPLC-TOFMS, free fatty acid (FFA) and ceramide (CER) compositions differed between patients with PSC and HSC. Specifically, the levels of ultra-long chain fatty acids containing CER and phytosphingosine-containing CER were decreased, while those of sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine-containing CER and unsaturated FFA were increased in PSC patients. Furthermore, FFA and CER carbon chain lengths decreased in patients with PSC. These results suggest that the alteration of SC lipid composition and the reduction of carbon chain lengths in PSC lowered the structural transformation temperature, thereby reducing barrier function.

Quantification methods comparing in vitro and in vivo percutaneous permeation by microneedles and passive diffusion

Microneedles (MNs) are needles with a tip diameter ranging from 10 to 100 um and a length ranging up to 1 mm. The first patent for drug delivery device for percutaneous administration filed by Alza corporation dates back to 1976 (Gerstel and Place, 1976), and in between 1989 and 2021 the filed patents for MNs are more than 4500 (Banks et al., 2010). These devices can potential overcome some drawbacks of traditional needles, such as the pain generated during insertion, requirement for trained personnel to manipulate syringes, and difficulty of performing injections in elderly and obese patients. MNs and MNs arrays are emerging as a convenient method to deliver compounds and extract blood without causing any pain. A promising application is the use of MNs as alternative solution to topical creams (TC) and transdermal patches (TP) for transdermal drug delivery. The external layer of human skin, the epidermis, offers a major barrier to transdermal drug delivery, thanks to the stratum corneum (SC). Exposed to the external environment, SC ultimately protects the human body from UV light radiation, heat, water loss, bacteria, fungi and viruses, and it is the barrier that controls diffusion rate for almost all compounds. TC and TP applications are limited by the skin permeability to lipophilic compounds and small molecules, and by the slow delivery rate of some compounds. MNs have been around for more than 35 year now, and it is a general opinion that MN increase delivery compared to passive diffusion, thanks to the feature of penetrating the SC and reaching the dermis. This review recollects the existing studies that compare MNs delivery of drugs with passive diffusion of the same drugs in alive organisms, giving an overview of what are the type of MNs, the chemical delivered and the methods employed to quantify drug delivery into skin and/or in the bloodstream. The final aim is to quantify the enhancement factor of MNs with respect to passive diffusion, and establish a possible standard on how tests can be performed in order to compare different data.

Lycopene, but not zeaxanthin, serves as a skeleton for the formation of an orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids within the lamellae in the stratum corneum: Molecular dynamics simulations of the hydrated ceramide NS bilayer model

Carotenoids play an important role in the protection of biomembranes against oxidative damage. Their function depends on the surroundings and the organization of the lipid membrane they are embedded in. Carotenoids are located parallel or perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The influence of carotenoids on the organization of the lipid bilayer in the stratum corneum has not been thoroughly considered. Here, the orientation of the exemplary cutaneous carotenoids lycopene and zeaxanthin in a hydrated ceramide NS24 bilayer model and the influence of carotenoids on the lateral organization of the lipid bilayer model were studied by means of molecular dynamics simulations for 32 °C and 37 °C. The results confirm that lycopene is located parallel and zeaxanthin perpendicular to the surface of the lipid bilayer. The lycopene-loaded lipid bilayer appeared to have a strong orthorhombic organization, while zeaxanthin-loaded and pure lipid bilayers were organized in a disordered hexagonal-like and liquid-like state, respectively. The effect is stronger at 32 °C compared to 37 °C based on p-values. Therefore, it was assumed that carotenoids without hydroxyl polar groups in their structure facilitate the formation of the orthorhombic organization of lipids, which provides the skin barrier function. It was shown that the distance between carotenoid atoms matched the distance between atoms in the lipids, indicating that parallel located carotenoids without hydroxyl groups serve as a skeleton for lipid membranes inside the lamellae. The obtained results provide reasonable prediction of the overall qualitative properties of lipid model systems and show the importance of parallel-oriented carotenoids in the development and maintenance of the skin barrier function.

The effect of PPAR isoform (de)activation on the lipid composition in full-thickness skin models

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). Although HSEs resemble NHS very closely, the barrier located in the stratum corneum (SC) is impaired. This is caused by an altered lipid composition in the SC of HSEs compared with NHS. One of the most pronounced changes in this lipid composition is a high level of monounsaturation. One key enzyme in this change is stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD1), which catalyses the monounsaturation of lipids. In order to normalize the lipid composition, we aimed to target a group of nuclear receptors that are important regulators in the lipid synthesis. This group of receptors are known as the peroxisome proliferating activating receptors (PPARs). By (de)activating each isoform (PPAR-α, PPAR-δ and PPAR-γ), the PPAR isoforms may have normalizing effects on the lipid composition. In addition, another PPAR-α agonist Wy14643 was included as this supplement demonstrated normalizing effects in the lipid composition in a more recent study. After PPAR (ant)agonists supplementation, the mRNA of downstream targets, lipid synthesis genes and lipid composition were investigated. The PPAR downstream targets were activated, indicating that the supplements reached the keratinocytes to trigger their effect. However, minimal impact was observed on the lipid composition after PPAR isoform (de) activation. Only the highest concentration Wy14643 resulted in strong, but negative effects on CER composition. Although the novel tested modifications did not result in an improvement, more insight is gained on the nuclear receptors PPARs and their effects on the lipid barrier in full-thickness skin models.

Moisturizing at a molecular level - The basis of Corneocare

BACKGROUND

This review covers the last 20 years of research we and our collaborators have conducted on ethnic differences in facial skin moisturization placed in historical context with previous research.

METHODS

We have focussed particularly on the biochemical and cellular gradients of the stratum corneum (SC) with the aim of discovering new skin moisturization and SC maturation mechanisms, identifying new technologies and/or providing conceptual innovations for ingredients that will improve our understanding and treatment of dry skin. Specifically, we discuss gradients for corneodesmosomes and proteases, corneocyte phenotype-inducing enzymes, filaggrin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and barrier lipids. These gradients are interdependent and influence greatly corneocyte maturation.

RESULTS

The interrelationship between corneodesmolysis and the covalent attachment of ω-hydroxy ceramides and ω-hydroxy fatty acids to the corneocyte protein envelope forming the corneocyte lipid envelope is especially relevant in our new understanding of mechanisms leading to dry skin. This process is initiated by a linoleoyl-ω-acyl ceramide transforming enzyme cascade including 12R lipoxygenase (12R-LOX), epidermal lipoxygenase-3 (eLOX3), epoxide hydrolase 3 (EPHX3), short-chain dehydrogenase/reductase family 9C member 7 (SDR9C7), ceramidase and transglutaminase 1.

CONCLUSION

Our research has opened the opportunity of using novel treatment systems for dry skin based on lipids, humectants, niacinamide and inhibitors of the plasminogen system. It is clear that skin moisturization is a more complex mechanism than simple skin hydration.

3D Molecular Imaging of Stratum Corneum by Mass Spectrometry Suggests Distinct Distribution of Cholesteryl Esters Compared to Other Skin Lipids

The crucial barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) depend critically on the design and integrity of its layered molecular structure. However, analysis methods capable of spatially resolved molecular characterization of the SC are scarce and fraught with severe limitations, e.g., regarding molecular specificity or spatial resolution. Here, we used 3D time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry to characterize the spatial distribution of skin lipids in corneocyte multilayer squams obtained by tape stripping. Depth profiles of specific skin lipids display an oscillatory behavior that is consistent with successive monitoring of individual lipid and corneocyte layers of the SC structure. Whereas the most common skin lipids, i.e., ceramides, C24:0 and C26:0 fatty acids and cholesteryl sulfate, are similarly organized, a distinct 3D distribution was observed for cholesteryl oleate, suggesting a different localization of cholesteryl esters compared to the lipid matrix separating the corneocyte layers. The possibility to monitor the composition and spatial distribution of endogenous lipids as well as active drug and cosmetic substances in individual lipid and corneocyte layers has the potential to provide important contributions to the basic understanding of barrier function and penetration in the SC.

Synchrotron-based infrared microspectroscopy of polymeric nanoparticles and skin: Unveiling molecular interactions to enhance permeation

The application of nanoparticles as permeation enhancers in skin drug delivery is a growing research field. However, the mechanisms of nanoparticles' interaction with the skin structure are still unknown. Fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles have demonstrated several physicochemical and biological advantages, among which is the enhancement of skin permeation. This study aims to elucidate permeation enhancement mechanisms using synchrotron-based Fourier Transform Infrared Microspectroscopy (SR-FTIRM) combined with multivariate analysis and in vitro skin permeation assay. Given the molecular weight influence on chitosan's properties, the nanoparticles-skin interactions were evaluated with nanoparticles produced using low- and medium-molecular-weight chitosan. Chemical maps and spectral analysis revealed that fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles induced changes in the lipids and protein regions. Inter-sample spectral differences were identified using principal component analysis. Low molecular weight fucoidan/ chitosan nanoparticles caused changes in the skin lipids' lateral packing and structure at the stratum corneum layer towards a less ordered state and higher fluidity, and no evidence was found on proteins structure. The opposite was revealed for medium molecular weight fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles, which induced changes in the secondary structure of keratin and altered lipid structure to an ordered and dense conformation. In vitro permeation assays with Franz diffusion cells correlate with the observed changes in the skin lipid and protein structure with enhanced skin permeation of a hydrophilic molecule incorporated within the fucoidan/chitosan nanoparticles. The findings of this study unveil molecular changes in the skin structure induced by the nanoparticles only possible with the application of the powerful and precise SR-FTIRM technique. This knowledge allows the design of nanoparticles towards an internalization pathway determining their fate within the skin structure.

ω-O-Acylceramides but not ω-hydroxy ceramides are required for healthy lamellar phase architecture of skin barrier lipids

Epidermal omega-O-acylceramides (ω-O-acylCers) are essential components of a competent skin barrier. These unusual sphingolipids with ultralong N-acyl chains contain linoleic acid esterified to the terminal hydroxyl of the N-acyl, the formation of which requires the transacylase activity of patatin-like phospholipase domain containing 1 (PNPLA1). In ichthyosis with dysfunctional PNPLA1, ω-O-acylCer levels are significantly decreased, and ω-hydroxylated Cers (ω-OHCers) accumulate. Here we explore the role of the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers in the assembly of the skin lipid barrier. Ultrastructural studies of skin samples from neonatal Pnpla1^+/+ and Pnpla1^-/- mice showed that the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers is essential for lamellar pairing in lamellar bodies, as well as for stratum corneum lipid assembly into the long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP). To further study the molecular details of ω-O-acylCer deficiency on skin barrier lipid assembly, we built in vitro lipid models composed of major stratum corneum lipid subclasses containing either ω-O-acylCer (healthy skin model), ω-OHCer (Pnpla1^-/- model), or combination of the two. X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies indicated that ω-OHCers could not substitute for ω-O-acylCers, although in favorable conditions, they form a medium lamellar phase with a 10.8 nm-repeat distance and permeability barrier properties similar to LPP. In the absence of ω-O-acylCers, skin lipids were prone to separation into two phases with diminished barrier properties. The models combining ω-OHCers with ω-O-acylCers indicated that accumulation of ω-OHCers does not prevent ω-O-acylCer-driven lamellar stacking. These data suggest that ω-O-acylCer supplementation may be a viable therapeutic option in patients with PNPLA1 deficiency.

Skin models for dermal exposure assessment of phthalates

Phthalates are a class of compounds that have found widespread use in industrial applications, in particular in the polymer, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. While ingestion, and to a lesser degree inhalation, have been considered as the major exposure routes, especially for higher molecular weight phthalates, dermal exposure is an important route for lower weight phthalates such as diethyl phthalate (DEP). Assessing the dermal permeability of such compounds is of great importance for evaluating the impact and toxicity of such compounds in humans. While human skin is still the best model for studying dermal permeation, availability, cost and ethical concerns may preclude or restrict its use. A range of alternative models has been developed over time to substitute for human skin, especially in the early phases of research. These include ex vivo animal skin, human reconstructed skin and artificial skin models. While the results obtained using such alternative models correlate to a lesser or greater degree with those from in vivo human studies, the use of such models is nevertheless vital in dermal permeation research. This review discusses the alternative skin models that are available, their use in phthalate permeation studies and possible new avenues of phthalate research using skin models that have not been used so far.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Interaction between SARS-CoV-2 spike glycoprotein and human skin models: a molecular dynamics study

The possibility of contamination of human skin by infectious virions plays an important role in indirect transmission of respiratory viruses but little is known about the fundamental physico-chemical aspects of the virus-skin interactions. In the case of coronaviruses, the interaction with surfaces (including the skin surface) is mediated by their large glycoprotein spikes that protrude from (and cover) the viral envelope. Here, we perform all atomic simulations between the SARS-CoV-2 spike glycoprotein and human skin models. We consider an "oily" skin covered by sebum and a "clean" skin exposing the stratum corneum. The simulations show that the spike tries to maximize the contacts with stratum corneum lipids, particularly ceramides, with substantial hydrogen bonding. In the case of "oily" skin, the spike is able to retain its structure, orientation and hydration over sebum with little interaction with sebum components. Comparison of these results with our previous simulations of the interaction of SARS-CoV-2 spike with hydrophilic and hydrophobic solid surfaces, suggests that the "soft" or "hard" nature of the surface plays an essential role in the interaction of the spike protein with materials.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

Multitargeted Approach for the Optimization of Morphogenesis and Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

In vitro skin tissue engineering is challenging due to the manifold differences between the in vivo and in vitro conditions. Yet, three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalents (HSEs) are able to mimic native human skin in many fundamental aspects. However, the epidermal lipid barrier formation, which is essential for the functionality of the skin barrier, remains compromised. Recently, HSEs with an improved lipid barrier formation were generated by (i) incorporating chitosan in the dermal collagen matrix, (ii) reducing the external oxygen level to 3%, and (iii) inhibiting the liver X receptor (LXR). In this study, we aimed to determine the synergic effects in full-thickness models (FTMs) with combinations of these factors as single-, double-, and triple-targeted optimization approaches. The collagen–chitosan FTM supplemented with the LXR inhibitor showed improved epidermal morphogenesis, an enhanced lipid composition, and a better lipid organization. Importantly, barrier functionality was improved in the corresponding approach. In conclusion, our leading optimization approach substantially improved the epidermal morphogenesis, barrier formation, and functionality in the FTM, which therefore better resembled native human skin.

Skin lipids in health and disease: A review

Our skin is the interface between us and our environment - a flexible barrier that has evolved for protection, immunity, regulation and sensation. Once regarded as inert, we now know that it is a dynamic environment. Skin lipids are crucial to the structure and function of skin. From deep in the hypodermis, through the ceramide-rich epidermis, to the lipids of the skin surface, there are a vast array of different lipids with important roles to play. This review firstly discusses the lipid composition of human skin and secondly, changes that have been found in skin lipid composition in different skin diseases. Further research into skin lipids facilitated by ever-improving methodologies will no doubt generate new knowledge, paving the way for diagnosis, prevention and treatment of skin disorders and diseases.

Improved organotypic skin model with reduced quantity of monounsaturated ceramides by inhibiting stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1

Full thickness models (FTM) are 3D in vitro skin cultures that resemble the native human skin (NHS) to a great extent. However, the barrier function of these skin models is reduced. The skin barrier is located in the stratum corneum (SC) and consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. In this matrix, deviations in the composition of the FTMs lipid matrix may contribute to the impaired skin barrier when compared to NHS. One of the most abundant changes in lipid composition is an increase in monounsaturated lipids for which stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1) is responsible. To improve the SC lipid composition, we reduced SCD-1 activity during the generation of the FTMs. These FTMs were subsequently assessed on all major aspects, including epidermal homeostasis, lipid composition, lipid organization, and barrier functionality. We demonstrate that SCD-1 inhibition was successful and resulted in FTMs that better mimic the lipid composition of FTMs to NHS by a significant reduction in monounsaturated lipids. In conclusion, this study demonstrates an effective approach to normalize SC monounsaturated lipid concentration and may be a valuable tool in further optimizing the FTMs in future studies.

Foray into Concepts of Design and Evaluation of Microemulsions as a Modern Approach for Topical Applications in Acne Pathology

With a fascinating complexity, governed by multiple physiological processes, the skin is considered a mantle with protective functions which during lifetime are frequently impaired, triggering dermatologic disorders. As one of the most prevalent dermatologic conditions worldwide, characterized by a complex pathogenesis and a high recurrence, acne can affect the patient's quality of life. Smart topical vehicles represent a good option in the treatment of a versatile skin condition. By surpassing the stratum corneum known for diffusional resistance, a superior topical bioavailability can be obtained at the affected place. In this direction, the literature study presents microemulsions as a part of a condensed group of modern formulations. Microemulsions are appreciated for their superior profile in matters of drug delivery, especially for challenging substances with hydrophilic or lipophilic structures. Formulated as transparent and thermodynamically stable systems, using simplified methods of preparation, microemulsions have a simple and clear appearance. Their unique structures can be explained as a function of the formulation parameters which were found to be the mainstay of a targeted therapy.

Unravelling effects of relative humidity on lipid barrier formation in human skin equivalents

Relative humidity (RH) levels vary continuously in vivo, although during in vitro generation of three-dimensional human skin equivalents (HSEs) these remain high (90-95%) to prevent evaporation of the cell-culture medium. However, skin functionality is directly influenced by environmental RH. As the barrier formation in HSEs is different, there is a need to better understand the role of cell-culture conditions during the generation of HSEs. In this study, we aim to investigate the effects of RH on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, two types of HSEs were developed at 90% or at 60% RH. Assessments were performed to determine epidermal morphogenesis by immunohistochemical analyses, ceramide composition by lipidomic analysis, and lipid organization by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray diffraction. We show that reduction of RH mainly affected the uppermost viable epidermal layers in the HSEs, including an enlargement of the granular cells and induction of epidermal cell activation. Neither the composition nor the organization of the lipids in the intercorneocyte space were substantially altered at reduced RH. In addition, lipid processing from glucosylceramides to ceramides was not affected by reduced RH in HSEs as shown by enzyme expression, enzyme activity, and substrate-to-product ratio. Our results demonstrate that RH directly influences epidermal morphogenesis, albeit the in vitro lipid barrier formation is comparable at 90% and 60% RH.

Characterization of human skin equivalents developed at body's core and surface temperatures

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are in vitro developed three‐dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) to a high extent. However, the epidermal lipid biosynthesis, barrier lipid composition, and organization are altered, leading to an elevated diffusion rate of therapeutic molecules. The altered lipid barrier formation in HSEs may be induced by standardized culture conditions, including a culture temperature of 37°C, which is dissimilar to skin surface temperature. Therefore, we aim to determine the influence of culture temperature during the generation of full thickness models (FTMs) on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation. For this purpose, FTMs were developed at conventional core temperature (37°C) or lower temperatures (35°C and 33°C) and evaluated over a time period of 4 weeks. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was analysed using advanced liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analysis. Our results show that SC layers accumulated at a similar rate irrespective of culture temperature. At reduced culture temperature, an increased epidermal thickness, a disorganization of the lower epidermal cell layers, a delayed early differentiation, and an enlargement of granular cells were detected. Interestingly, melanogenesis was reduced at lower temperature. The ceramide subclass profile, chain length distribution, and level of unsaturated ceramides were similar in FTMs generated at 37°C and 35°C but changed when generated at 33°C, reducing the resemblance to NHS. Herein, we report that culture temperature affects epidermal morphogenesis substantially and to a lesser extent the lipid barrier formation, highlighting the importance of optimized external parameters during reconstruction of skin.

Multiscale Simulations of Biological Membranes: The Challenge To Understand Biological Phenomena in a Living Substance

Biological membranes are tricky to investigate. They are complex in terms of molecular composition and structure, functional over a wide range of time scales, and characterized by nonequilibrium conditions. Because of all of these features, simulations are a great technique to study biomembrane behavior. A significant part of the functional processes in biological membranes takes place at the molecular level; thus computer simulations are the method of choice to explore how their properties emerge from specific molecular features and how the interplay among the numerous molecules gives rise to function over spatial and time scales larger than the molecular ones. In this review, we focus on this broad theme. We discuss the current state-of-the-art of biomembrane simulations that, until now, have largely focused on a rather narrow picture of the complexity of the membranes. Given this, we also discuss the challenges that we should unravel in the foreseeable future. Numerous features such as the actin-cytoskeleton network, the glycocalyx network, and nonequilibrium transport under ATP-driven conditions have so far received very little attention; however, the potential of simulations to solve them would be exceptionally high. A major milestone for this research would be that one day we could say that computer simulations genuinely research biological membranes, not just lipid bilayers.

State of the art in Stratum Corneum research: The biophysical properties of ceramides

This review is summarizing an important part of the state of the art in stratum corneum research. A complete overview on discoveries about the general biophysical and physicochemical properties of the known ceramide species' is provided. The ceramides are one of the three major components of the lipid matrix and mainly govern its properties and structure. They are shown to exhibit very little redundancy, despite the minor differences in their chemical structure. The results are discussed, compared to each other as well as the current base of knowledge. New interesting aspects and concepts are concluded or suggested. A novel interpretation of the 3-dimensional structure of the lipid matrix and its influence on the barrier function will be discussed. The most important conclusion is the presentation of a new and up to date theoretical model of the nanostructure of the short periodicity phase. The model suggests three perpendicular layers: The rigid head group region, the rigid chain region and, a liquid-like overlapping middle layer. The general principle of the skin barrier function is highlighted in regard to this structure and the ceramides biophysical and physicochemical properties. As a result of these considerations, the entropy vs. enthalpy principle is introduced, shedding light on the function as well as the effectiveness of the skin barrier. Additionally, general ideas to effectively overcome this barrier principle for dermal and transdermal delivery of actives or how to use it for specific targeting of the stratum corneum are proposed.

Frequency-dependent skin penetration depth of terahertz radiation determined by water sorption-desorption

A multilayered water-skin model is used to experimentally verify a new sensing method for determining the skin penetration depth of radiation with 0.1-0.9 terahertz (THz) frequencies. A water overlayer is dripped on a skin sample to form a multilayered structure for dynamically measuring the reflected THz-wave amplitude during water desorption. Skin penetration depths can be successfully derived by using the multilayered water-skin model and by considering the measured reflectivity, water dielectric constants, and effective thicknesses of the water overlayer on the skin sample. The maximum penetration depth is approximately 0.3 mm and is obtained with wave frequencies of 0.4-0.6 THz. This penetration depth encompasses the stratum corneum (SC) and part of the epidermis. The high penetration depth of 0.4-0.6 THz waves is also confirmed in the dried and damaged SC.

Skin microbiota-host interactions

The skin is a complex and dynamic ecosystem that is inhabited by bacteria, archaea, fungi and viruses. These microbes-collectively referred to as the skin microbiota-are fundamental to skin physiology and immunity. Interactions between skin microbes and the host can fall anywhere along the continuum between mutualism and pathogenicity. In this Review, we highlight how host-microbe interactions depend heavily on context, including the state of immune activation, host genetic predisposition, barrier status, microbe localization, and microbe-microbe interactions. We focus on how context shapes the complex dialogue between skin microbes and the host, and the consequences of this dialogue for health and disease.

Passive delivery of protein drugs through transdermal route

Skin is the largest external organ in the human body but its use for therapeutic purposes has been minimal. Stratum corneum residing on the uppermost layer of the skin provides a tough barrier to transport the drugs across the skin. Very small group of drugs sharing Lipinski properties, i.e. drugs having molecular weight not larger than 500 Da, having high lipophilicity and optimum polarity are fortunate enough to be used on skin therapeutics. But, at a time where modern therapeutics is slowly shifting from use of small molecular drugs towards the use of macromolecular therapeutic agents such as peptides, proteins and nucleotides in origin, skin therapeutics need to be evolved accordingly to cater the delivery of these agents. Physical technologies like iontophoresis, laser ablation, micro-needles and ultrasound, etc. have been introduced to enhance skin permeability. But their success is limited due to their complex working mechanisms and involvement of certain irreversible skin damage in some or other way. This review therefore explores the delivery strategies for transport of mainly peptide and protein drugs that do not involve any injuries (non-invasive) to the skin termed as passive delivery techniques. Chemical enhancers, nanocarriers, certain biological peptides and miscellaneous approaches like prodrugs are also thoroughly reviewed for their applications in protein delivery.

Evidence of hydrocarbon nanodrops in highly ordered stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of skin, dictates the rate of both water loss through the skin and absorption of exogenous molecules into the body. The crystalline organization of the lipids in the SC is believed to be a key feature associated with the very limited permeability of the skin. In this work, we characterized the organization of SC lipid models that include, as in native SC, cholesterol, a series of FFAs (saturated with C16-C24 chains), as well as a ceramide bearing an oleate chain-linked to a very long saturated acyl chain [N-melissoyl-oleoyloxy hexacosanoyl-D-erythro-sphingosine (Cer EOS)]. The latter is reported to be essential for the native SC lipid organization. Our ²H-NMR, infrared, and Raman spectroscopy data reveal that Cer EOS leads to the formation of highly disordered liquid domains in a solid/crystalline matrix. The lipid organization imposes steric constraint on Cer EOS oleate chains in such a way that these hydrocarbon nanodroplets remain in the liquid state down to -30°C. These findings modify the structural description of the SC substantially and propose a novel role of Cer EOS, as this lipid is a strong modulator of SC solid/liquid balance.

A depth-dependent profile of the lipid conformation and lateral packing order of the stratum corneum in vivo measured using Raman microscopy

The intercellular lipid structure of the stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in skin barrier function. A depth profile of the intercellular lipid conformation and the lipid lateral packing order were measured in vivo in the human SC using confocal Raman microscopy. The depth profiles of the 2880 cm(-1)/2850 cm(-1) peak ratio intensity, which represent the C-H stretching and lateral packing order of lipids, and the 1080 cm(-1)/(1130 cm(-1) + 1060 cm(-1)) peak ratio, which represents the C-C skeleton vibration and trans-gauche conformation order of lipids, were investigated. The influence of keratin on the lipid peaks at 2850 cm(-1) and 2880 cm(-1) was excluded by the developed mathematical algorithm. The results show that the trans-conformation and lateral packing order of the intercellular lipids reach their maximum value in the SC at 20-40% of its depth and then decrease towards the stratum granulosum. These results show that at a depth of 20-40% (normally corresponding to a depth of 4-8 μm) the SC exhibits the most ordered lipids and therefore the highest skin barrier function. The lateral packing of lipids is more disordered on the surface and in the deeper parts of the SC, which may be associated with a reduced skin barrier function.

Evaporation of Sunscreen Films: How the UV Protection Properties Change

We have investigated the evaporation of thin sunscreen films and how the light absorption and the derived sun protection factor (SPF) change. For films consisting of solutions of common UV filters in propylene glycol (PG) as solvent, we show how evaporation generally causes three effects. First, the film area can decrease by dewetting leading to a transient increase in the average film thickness. Second, the film thins by evaporative loss of the solvent. Third, precipitation of the UV filter occurs when solvent loss causes the solubility limit to be reached. These evaporation-induced changes cause the UV absorbance of the film to decrease with resultant loss of SPF over the time scale of the evaporation. We derive an approximate model which accounts semiquantitatively for the variation of SPF with evaporation. Experimental results for solutions of different UV filters on quartz, different skin mimicking substrates, films with added nanoparticles, films with an added polymer and films with fast-evaporating decane as solvent (instead of slow evaporating PG) are discussed and compared with model calculations. Addition of either nanoparticles or polymer suppress film dewetting. Overall, it is hoped that the understanding gained about the mechanisms whereby film evaporation affects the SPF will provide useful guidance for the formulation of more effective sunscreens.

Chain Length of Free Fatty Acids Influences the Phase Behavior of Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The skin, the largest organ of the human body, forms a flexible interface between our internal and external environment that protects our organism from exogenous compounds as well as excessive water loss. The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, is mainly responsible for the skin impermeability. The SC is formed by corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix, which is mostly constituted of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), organized in two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases. This arrangement of lipids is crucial to skin barrier function. The aim of this paper is to determine the impact of FFA chain length on the phase behavior of SC model lipid membranes using solid-state deuterium NMR and IR spectroscopy. We studied ternary mixtures of N-lignoceroyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (Cer24), cholesterol, and palmitic (FFA16) or lignoceric (FFA24) acid in an equimolar ratio. This proportion replicates the lipid composition found in the SC lipid matrix. Our studies revealed that the phase behavior of Cer24/FFA/Chol ternary mixtures is strongly affected by the length of the FFA. We found the formation of phase-separated crystalline lipid domains when using palmitic acid whereas the use of lignoceric acid results in a more homogeneous mixture. In addition, it was observed that mixtures with lignoceric acid form a gel phase, a very unusual feature for SC model mixtures.