Fluctuations in equine cutaneous pH and transepidermal water loss with time of day and ambient conditions

Cutaneous pH and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) are commonly utilized measures in dermatological research as they provide information concerning barrier function. The importance of dermal health has become more evident in recent years. Accordingly, the aim of this work was to identify natural fluctuations in the biophysical parameters of healthy equine skin. Cutaneous pH and TEWL was collected on nine mares at 6:00 AM, 12:00 PM, and 6:00 PM daily for five days on the nose, withers, girth area, mid-back, and base of tail. Ambient temperature and humidity were measured at each collection. Statistical analysis was completed using SAS On Demand. Tests included repeated measures, ANOVA, and regression analysis. Mean cutaneous pH significantly differed by day (P = 0.0052) and time (P = 0.0073) but was unaffected by anatomical location (P = 0.2841). Interestingly, cutaneous pH had a significant interaction of day and location (P = 0.0004). Mean TEWL measures significantly differed by day (P < 0.0001), time (P < 0.0001), and anatomical location (P = 0.0231). Interaction of day and time had a significant effect on TEWL (P < 0.0001) and also resulted in a three-way interaction of day, time, and location (P = 0.0167). There were no significant associations of pH with temperature and humidity. All measures of TEWL across all locations were significantly correlated with temperature and humidity (P < 0.0001). Cutaneous pH and TEWL measures are affected by environmental conditions which should be considered in future models and work using dermal characteristics of horses.

Evaluation of Antioxidant Activity and Treatment of Eczema by Berberine Hydrochloride-Loaded Liposomes-in-Gel

In this paper, berberine hydrochloride-loaded liposomes-in-gel were designed and developed to investigate their antioxidant properties and therapeutic effects on the eczema model of the mouse. Berberine hydrochloride-liposomes (BBH-L) as the nanoparticles were prepared by the thin-film hydration method and then dispersed BBH-L evenly in the gel matrix to prepare the berberine hydrochloride liposomes-gel (BBH-L-Gel) by the natural swelling method. Their antioxidant capacity was investigated by the free radical scavenging ability on 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and H2O2 and the inhibition of lipid peroxides malondialdehyde (MDA). An eczema model was established, and the efficacy of the eczema treatment was preliminarily evaluated using ear swelling, the spleen index, and pathological sections as indicators. The results indicate that the entrapment efficiency of BBH-L prepared by the thin-film hydration method was 78.56% ± 0.7%, with a particle size of 155.4 ± 9.3 nm. For BBH-L-Gel, the viscosity and pH were 18.16 ± 6.34 m Pas and 7.32 ± 0.08, respectively. The cumulative release in the unit area of the in vitro transdermal study was 85.01 ± 4.53 μg/cm2. BBH-L-Gel had a good scavenging capacity on DPPH and H2O2, and it could effectively inhibit the production of hepatic lipid peroxides MDA in the concentration range of 0.4-2.0 mg/mL. The topical application of BBH-L-Gel could effectively alleviate eczema symptoms and reduce oxidative stress injury in mice. This study demonstrates that BBH-L-Gel has good skin permeability, excellent sustained release, and antioxidant capabilities. They can effectively alleviate the itching, inflammation, and allergic symptoms caused by eczema, providing a new strategy for clinical applications in eczema treatment.

Gelled Liquid Crystal Nanocarriers for Improved Antioxidant Activity of Resveratrol

As many natural origin antioxidants, resveratrol is characterized by non-suitable physicochemical properties for its topical application. To allow its benefits to manifest on human skin, resveratrol has been entrapped within liquid crystal nanocarriers (LCNs) made up of glyceryl monooleate, a penetration enhancer, and DSPE-PEG 750. The nanosystems have been more deeply characterized by using dynamic light scattering and Turbiscan Lab® Expert optical analyzer, and they have been tested in vitro on NCTC 2544. The improved antioxidant activity of entrapped resveratrol was evaluated on keratinocyte cells as a function of its concentration. Finally, to really propose the resveratrol-loaded LCNs for topical use, the systems were gelled by using two different gelling agents, poloxamer P407 and carboxymethyl cellulose, to improve the contact time between skin and formulation. The rheological features of obtained gels were evaluated using two important methods (microrheology at rest and dynamic rheology), before testing their safety profile on human healthy volunteers. The obtained results showed the ability of LCNs to improve antioxidant activity of RSV and the gelled LCNs showed good rheological profiles. In conclusion, the results confirmed the potentiality of gelled resveratrol-loaded nanosystems for skin disease, mainly related to their antioxidant effects.

Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin

BACKGROUND

Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.

RESULTS

The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

A comparison of canine decontamination cleansers: Implications for water use, dermal pH, and contaminant reduction

Environmental contamination is commonly experienced by working canines deployed in the field. Unfortunately, data regarding safety and efficacy of cleansers recommended for decontamination is lacking. Client-owned canines recruited from the community (n = 43) were randomly assigned to one of four treatment groups: povidone-iodine scrub [60mL Betadine® 7.5% povidone-iodine surgical scrub (Avrio Health L.P, Stamford, CT)], chlorhexidine scrub [60 mL Nolvasan® 2% chlorohexidine surgical scrub (Zoetis, Kalamazoo, MI)], dish detergent [60mL Dawn® dish detergent (Proctor & Gamble, Cincinnati, OH)], or water alone (control). A visual score assessing removal of a fluorescent marker (GloGerm, Moab, UT) applied between the shoulder blades was used to rate effectiveness of decontamination. Cleanser effect on canine dermal barrier function was determined by measuring pre- and post-decontamination dermal pH and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). Analysis of visual scores was performed using PROC FREQ and Chi Square. Significance was set a priori at 0.05 for all tests. Efficacy of fluorescent marker removal was significantly affected by cleanser (P<0.0001). Dermal pH was also highly affected by cleanser (P < 0.0001). In contrast, TEWL was unchanged across cleansers (P = 0.2686). Common veterinary cleansers utilized for canine decontamination demonstrate similarity in effectiveness for removal of a simulated contaminant and negative impact on dermal barrier function.

Recent Advances in Nanomaterials for Dermal and Transdermal Applications

The stratum corneum, the most superficial layer of the skin, protects the body against environmental hazards and presents a highly selective barrier for the passage of drugs and cosmetic products deeper into the skin and across the skin. Nanomaterials can effectively increase the permeation of active molecules across the stratum corneum and enable their penetration into deeper skin layers, often by interacting with the skin and creating the distinct sites with elevated local concentration, acting as reservoirs. The flux of the molecules from these reservoirs can be either limited to the underlying skin layers (for topical drug and cosmeceutical delivery) or extended across all the sublayers of the epidermis to the blood vessels of the dermis (for transdermal delivery). The type of the nanocarrier and the physicochemical nature of the active substance are among the factors that determine the final skin permeation pattern and the stability of the penetrant in the cutaneous environment. The most widely employed types of nanomaterials for dermal and transdermal applications include solid lipid nanoparticles, nanovesicular carriers, microemulsions, nanoemulsions, and polymeric nanoparticles. The recent advances in the area of nanomaterial-assisted dermal and transdermal delivery are highlighted in this review.

Effect of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin in fluid and semi-solid submicron emulsions on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application

Objective

The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effect of hydroxypropyl‐β‐cyclodextrin (HP‐β‐CD) in cosmetic submicron emulsions and submicron emulsion gels on physiological skin parameters during regular application in a clinical set‐up.

Methods

Formulation morphology was investigated using cryo‐transmission electron microscopy. Stability of the employed formulations was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy, measurement of pH and rheological properties. Effect on physiological skin parameters was evaluated during regular application over four weeks in a parallel group study (n = 15, healthy forearm skin) with a Corneometer, Sebumeter, skin‐pH‐Meter, Aquaflux and an Epsilon sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor urea and NMF levels.

Results

Both submicron emulsions and gels showed satisfying storage stability irrespective of cyclodextrin incorporation. No statistically significant effects on skin barrier function and any of the observed parameters were obtained, indicating good skin tolerability of all tested formulations.

Conclusion

Results suggest good skin tolerability of the developed cosmetic submicron emulsions and gels with HP‐β‐CD.

Topical Delivery of Meloxicam using Liposome and Microemulsion Formulation Approaches

The aim of this study is to develop, characterize and compare conventional liposome, deformable liposome (transfersome) and microemulsion formulations as potential topical delivery systems for meloxicam. Liposomes were characterized in terms of vesicle size, zeta potential and entrapment efficiency. For microemulsions, particle size, electrical conductivity and viscosity studies were performed to assess the structure of the investigated systems. An ex vivo skin permeation study has been conducted to compare these formulations. The dermal and transdermal delivery of meloxicam using these formulations can be a promising alternative to conventional oral delivery of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) with enhanced local and systemic onset of action and reduced side effects.

The effect of vehicle on skin absorption of Mg2+ and Ca2+ from thermal spring water

OBJECTIVE

Thermal spring waters (TSW) are commonly used as active ingredients in cosmetics. Their biological activities directly depend on the ionic composition of the spring. However, in order to exhibit beneficial properties, the minerals need to reach viable skin layers. The present study addresses the incorporation of marketed TSW in model cosmetic formulations and the impact of the formulation on skin absorption of magnesium and calcium ions that are known to improve skin barrier function.

METHODS

Marketed TSW was introduced into five formulations. Liposomes were prepared using saturated or unsaturated phospholipids mixed with cholesterol by the thin layer evaporation technique. Emulsions water-in-oil (W/O), oil-in-water (O/W) or double: water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) were prepared by high-shear mixing. Skin absorption of Mg²⁺ and Ca²⁺ from those formulations was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells under infinite dose condition and under occlusion of the apparatus.

RESULTS

Mg²⁺ and Ca²⁺ penetrate skin samples from TSW. Encapsulating TSW into double emulsion (TSW/O/W) increased skin absorption of both cations of interest and kept the Ca²⁺ /Mg²⁺ ratio equal to that of TSW in each skin layer. The dermal absorption of Mg²⁺ from the double emulsion departs from both single emulsions. Application of liposome suspension improved the skin absorption of Ca²⁺ while keeping constant that of Mg²⁺ , leading to unbalanced Ca²⁺ /Mg²⁺ ratio inside skin.

CONCLUSION

The beneficial effects of TSW are not only due to their action on the skin surface. Their active components, especially Ca²⁺ and Mg²⁺ cations, reach viable skin layers in a formulation-dependent manner. The distribution of ions inside skin depends on the type of formulation.

Stability, antioxidant activity, in vivo safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non-ionic emulsifier-CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin.

METHODS

Organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids-FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity-AA (using DPPH test) during 180 days. In vivo study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24 h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH after 28 days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7 days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Investigated cosmetic cream-CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico-chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25 ± 0.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. In vivo investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14 days ΔEC was 18.52 ± 11.51 and after 28 days of applications 16.52 ± 9.36) during 28 day-study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7 days ΔMI was -31.40 ± 16.50).

CONCLUSION

Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and/or treatment of oxidative stress-related skin changes and/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin. RÉSUMÉ: OBJECTIF Le but de l'étude était la caractérisation in vitro et in vivo d'une crème cosmétique contenant 6 % d'extrait normalisé de pomme sauvage, stabilisée par un émulsifiant non ionique conventionnel-CEW, afin de déterminer l'influence des émulsifiants (conventionnels vs biodégradables) sur les caractéristiques des crèmes et les effets sur la peau. MÉTHODES: Des analyses organoleptiques et physico-chimiques (pH et conductivité électrique) ont été effectuées, la détermination de la teneur en acides de fruits et en acides gras polyinsaturés (par CLHP), et l'estimation de sa teneur en activité antioxydante (AA) (à l'aide du test DPPH) pendant 180 jours. L'étude in vivo comprenait les examens suivants : dépistage du profil d'innocuité (après application de crèmes sous occlusion pendant 24 h sur la peau humaine); potentiel d'hydratation de la peau, perte d'eau transépidermique (PETE), pH de la peau après 28 jours d'application de la crème et efficacité de l'hypopigmentation après 7 jours d'application de la crème sur une hyperpigmentation de la peau induite artificiellement. RÉSULTATS: La crème cosmétique-CEW étudiée a montré des caractéristiques organoleptiques, physico-chimiques, une stabilité, une teneur en AG (0,13 %) et en AA (19,25 ± 0,67 % RSC) satisfaisantes après préparation, qui sont demeurées inchangées au cours de la période de l'étude. L'étude in vivo a révélé l'absence d'irritation cutanée après l'application de CEW sous occlusion. Une augmentation de l'hydratation de la peau (après 14 jours de DEC était de 18,52 ± 11,51 et après 28 jours d'applications de 16,52 ± 9,36) pendant l'étude de 28 jours, avec une PETE et des valeurs de pH cutané inchangées, a été démontrée. Une diminution de l'indice de mélanine a été mise en évidence également (après 7 jours, ΔMI était de 31,40 ± 16,50).

CONCLUSION

La crème cosmétique stabilisée par un émulsifiant conventionnel a montré un meilleur potentiel antioxydant et des effets d'hydratation et d'hypopigmentation plus faibles par rapport à la crème de même composition mais stabilisée par des émulsifiants biodégradables. D'après les données précédentes, la crème cosmétique étudiée pourrait être considérée comme un produit cosmétique moderne, stable, sûr et efficace dans la prévention et/ou le traitement des changements et/ou dommages cutanés liés au stress oxydatif, pour l'hydratation de la peau sèche, voire irritée, ainsi que pour éclaircir la peau hyperpigmentée.

Topical application of highly concentrated water-in-oil emulsions: Physiological skin parameters and skin penetration in vivo - A pilot study

Important aspects in the development of new dermal drug delivery systems are the formulations' physicochemical properties and stability. Moreover, their influence on skin physiology and their penetration performance in vivo are of crucial interest. We have recently developed novel concentrated water-in-oil emulsions based on a non-ionic silicone surfactant; the present study deals with the effect of these formulations on physiological skin parameters of healthy volunteers after repeated application. Variations in skin condition and barrier integrity were investigated using classical biophysical and spectroscopic techniques. After four weeks of continuous treatment, no signs of skin irritation could be observed. Both tested emulsions had a positive effect on skin properties despite their relatively high water content and low lipid content. In vivo tape stripping studies revealed penetrated amounts of the incorporated model drug fluorescein sodium of almost 50% of the applied dose, with a superior performance of emulsions with isopropyl myristate when compared to liquid paraffin. In summary, our study confirmed the suitability of the developed W/O emulsions for pharmaceutic and cosmetic applications.

Standardized extract of wild apple fruit in alkyl-polyglucoside-based cosmetic cream - estimation of stability, safety, antioxidant activity and efficiency

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of wild apple fruit water extract, containing 3.5% of alpha-hydroxyacids-AHAs and polyphenolic compounds, stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers.

METHODS

In vitro characterization of cream included organoleptic and physico-chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis, antioxidant activity-AA estimation (using DPPH test) during 180 days of storage at 22±2°C and determination of cosmetic active substances content-AHAs (using HPLC analysis). In vivo estimation of skin irritation potential after creams application under occlusion during 24h was investigated employing the biophysical methods on 12 healthy volunteers; hydration efficiency, transepidermal water loss-TEWL, skin pH, erythema-EI and melanin index-MI on 10 healthy volunteers after 28 days of cream application and bleaching efficiency on 10 healthy volunteers after 7 days of cream application after artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Investigated cosmetic cream was pale beige color, odorless, semi-solid consistency and homogeneous, with pH values of 6.53±0.14, electrical conductivity above 50 μS/cm and AA of 24.96%RSC after preparation and these characteristics were stable during investigated period. In vivo measurements revealed absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion, which was part of it's safety profile. Increase of skin hydration after 14 days of cream application was 17.28±12.23 and after 28 days 21.19±7.59. In addition, in performed experiment TEWL and skin pH values during cream application remained unchanged. Cream application after artificial hyperpigmentation induced decrease of MI (∆MI after 7 days was -45.30±18.55) CONCLUSION: Formulated cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit water extract and stabilized by biodegradable alkyl-polyglucoside emulsifiers demonstrated good stability, acceptable level of in vitro antioxidant activity, absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion and positive effects of cream on human skin after application (hydrating and bleaching effects). All mentioned properties make the cream suitable for possible usage as cosmetic product for preventing the skin damages caused by oxidative stress, for moisturizing the dry skin and bleaching of skin hyperpigmentation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Atopic Dermatitis-like Graft-versus-host Disease and Lichen Planus-like Graft-versus-host Disease: Alterations in Skin Barrier Function and Related Molecules

Background:

Graft-versus-host disease (GVHD) is a common complication of hematopoietic stem cell transplantation. Skin barrier disruption could induce thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) expression, and the expression of TSLP was increased in lesions of atopic dermatitis (AD)-like GVHD and lichen planus (LP)-like GVHD. This study attempted to investigate the skin barrier function of AD-like GVHD and LP-like GVHD and possible mechanisms.

Methods:

Eighteen AD-like GVHD patients, 12 LP-like GVHD patients, and 14 healthy volunteers were enrolled in this study. Skin biopsy was done in five AD-like GVHD patients, eight LP-like GVHD patients, and eight healthy volunteers. The intensity of pruritus was assessed by visual analog scale itch score and detailed pruritus score. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured using Tewameter^® TM 300. Immunohistochemistry was used to observe the expression of loricrin, involucrin, LL37, and human β-defensins 2 (hBD2) in skin lesions. Western blot analysis was used for analyzing the protein levels of loricrin and involucrin in skin lesions. Real-time polymerase chain reaction was performed to assess the mRNA levels of LL37 and hBD2 in skin lesions.

Results:

Pruritus score was higher in patients with AD-like GVHD (11.33 ± 5.35) than that of patients with LP-like GVHD (2.58 ± 3.09, P < 0.001). Compared with healthy controls (HCs, 4.52 ± 1.24 g·m⁻²·h⁻¹), TEWL was increased in AD-like GVHD (26.72 ± 9.02 g·m⁻²·h⁻¹, P < 0.001) and LP-like GVHD patients (18.78 ± 4.57 g·m⁻²·h⁻¹, P < 0.001), and expressions of loricrin and involucrin were also increased in skin lesions of AD-like GVHD and LP-like GVHD patients (all P < 0.05). LL37 mRNA expression was decreased in lesions of AD-like GVHD and LP-like GVHD patients (P = 0.005 and P = 0.008, vs. HCs, respectively). hBD2 mRNA expression was increased in skin lesions of AD-like GVHD and LP-like GVHD patients (P = 0.002 and P < 0.001, vs. HCs, respectively).

Conclusions:

Skin barrier dysfunction is present in AD-like GVHD and LP-like GVHD. The immunoreactions, but not the congenital defect, are considered to be the primary cause of skin barrier impairment in AD-like GVHD and LP-like GVHD.

In vivo efficacy and properties of semisolid formulations containing panthenol

BACKGROUND

Panthenol is an active substance used in dermatology to protect the health of the skin, to treat defects in the morphology of the stratum corneum. In cosmetology, hydrating, softening, and barrier function of panthenol are utilized. Detailed studies evaluating the efficacy of panthenol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical semisolid formulations and establishing its optimum concentration are needed.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate whether an addition of 5-13 wt% panthenol in o/w and w/o emulsions increases hydration and supports the barrier properties of the skin. Rheological properties and sensory analysis of prepared formulations are supplemented.

METHODS

Noninvasive instrumental methods in vivo were used. The hydration and barrier effect of semisolid formulations on the skin were observed for 48 hour; testing was conducted on 40 women. The effect was compared with formulations without any content of panthenol. The rheological and organoleptic properties of the formulations were evaluated.

RESULTS

After applying either form of the formulations containing 7-11 wt% of panthenol hydration of the skin increased, transepidermal water loss decreased. pH of the skin shifted toward neutral after application of tested formulations. The rheological properties of the formulations were influenced by the type of vehicle, the amount of panthenol, and temperature. Sensory evaluation of both semisolid forms revealed statistically significant differences in o/w formulations with regard to spreadability.

CONCLUSIONS

The presence of panthenol in an o/w and w/o semisolid formulations significantly enhances skin barrier repair and hydration of the stratum corneum. Better vehicle for the active substance as regards hydration proved o/w formulations.

Effects of cosmetics on the skin microbiome of facial cheeks with different hydration levels

Basic cosmetics was used by volunteers belonging to high (HHG) and low (LHG) hydration groups for 4 weeks, and bacterial communities and biophysical parameters in facial skin were analyzed. Hydration level increases and transepidermal water loss and roughness decreases were observed in both groups after cosmetic use. Bacterial diversity was greater in LHG than HHG, and increased after cosmetic use in both groups. Bray–Curtis dissimilarities that were higher in LHG than HHG increased in HHG after cosmetic use, whereas they decreased in LHG. The phyla Actinobacteria, Proteobacteria, Firmicutes, and Bacteroidetes and the genera Propionibacterium, Ralstonia, Burkholderia, Staphylococcus, Corynebacterium, Cupriavidus, and Pelomonas were identified as common groups and they were not significantly different between LHG and HHG except for Propionibacterium that was more abundant in HHG. After cosmetic use, Propionibacterium, Staphylococcus, and Corynebacterium decreased, whereas Ralstonia, not a core genus, increased, as did KEGG categories of lipid metabolism and xenobiotics biodegradation and metabolism, suggesting that Ralstonia in skin may have the ability to metabolize cosmetics components. Bacterial communities after cosmetic use were different from those in both LHG and HHG before the cosmetic use, indicating that bacterial communities in LHG were not shifted to resemble those in HHG by cosmetics use.

Understanding the effects of topography on skin moisturization measurement via two-dimensional capacitance imaging

OBJECTIVE

Methods which assess skin moisturization based on changes in its electrical properties are widely used in both cosmetic and medical research industries. However, the devices themselves often give results which are significantly different to each other. Recently two-dimensional imaging moisturization systems have become commercially available, which have the capability to provide a more detailed assessment of what is contributing to measured skin moisturization. Presented here is a new in vitro method for preparing textured model test substrates for use with these devices, and results of their use to provide a clearer insight into the devices operation.

METHODS

A variety of different textured model test substrates were measured using a commercially available skin moisturization measurement device, the Epsilon. The response of the Epsilon was also tested against conventional skin moisturization devices.

RESULTS

Surface morphology of model test substrates was found to have a significant influence on the measurement of its electrical properties with both the conventional and two-dimensional skin moisturization measurement devices. Through modification of the areas of the image being assessed for the two-dimensional moisturization mapping device, the parts of the model test substrate in contact with the device were indentified and analysed separately to areas not in contact with the sensor. This provided a more robust assessment of the electrical properties of substrate itself, rather than being influenced by texture like the conventional skin moisturization measurement devices.

CONCLUSIONS

While the two-dimensional moisturization mapping systems can be used like a conventional electrical skin measurement device giving a simple overall reading of skin moisturization for the test area, their true value over existing electrical measures comes from its ability to isolate the skin itself from areas which are not in contact with the sensor.

Co-encapsulation of paclitaxel and C6 ceramide in tributyrin-containing nanocarriers improve co-localization in the skin and potentiate cytotoxic effects in 2D and 3D models

Considering that tumor development is generally multifactorial, therapy with a combination of agents capable of potentiating cytotoxic effects is promising. In this study, we co-encapsulated C6 ceramide (0.35%) and paclitaxel (0.50%) in micro and nanoemulsions containing tributyrin (a butyric acid pro-drug included for potentiation of cytotoxicity), and compared their ability to co-localize the drugs in viable skin layers. The nanoemulsion delivered 2- and 2.4-fold more paclitaxel into viable skin layers of porcine skin in vitro at 4 and 8h post-application than the microemulsion, and 1.9-fold more C6 ceramide at 8h. The drugs were co-localized mainly in the epidermis, suggesting the nanoemulsion ability for a targeted delivery. Based on this result, the nanoemulsion was selected for evaluation of the nanocarrier-mediated cytotoxicity against cells in culture (2D model) and histological changes in a 3D melanoma model. Encapsulation of the drugs individually decreased the concentration necessary to reduce melanoma cells viability to 50% (EC₅₀) by approximately 4- (paclitaxel) and 13-fold (ceramide), demonstrating an improved nanoemulsion-mediated drug delivery. Co-encapsulation of paclitaxel and ceramide further decreased EC₅₀ by 2.5-4.5-fold, and calculation of the combination index indicated a synergistic effect. Nanoemulsion topical administration on 3D bioengineered melanoma models for 48h promoted marked epidermis destruction, with only few cells remaining in this layer. This result demonstrates the efficacy of the nanoemulsion, but also suggests non-selective cytotoxic effects, which highlights the importance of localizing the drugs within cutaneous layers where the lesions develop to avoid adverse effects.

Potential of Non-aqueous Microemulsions to Improve the Delivery of Lipophilic Drugs to the Skin

In this study, non-aqueous microemulsions were developed because of the challenges associated with finding pharmaceutically acceptable solvents for topical delivery of drugs sparingly soluble in water. The formulation irritation potential and ability to modulate the penetration of lipophilic compounds (progesterone, α-tocopherol, and lycopene) of interest for topical treatment/prevention of skin disorders were evaluated and compared to solutions and aqueous microemulsions of similar composition. The microemulsions (ME) were developed with BRIJ, vitamin E-TPGS, and ethanol as surfactant-co-surfactant blend and tributyrin, isopropyl myristate, and oleic acid as oil phase. As polar phase, propylene glycol (MEPG) or water (MEW) was used (26% w/w). The microemulsions were isotropic and based on viscosity and conductivity assessment, bicontinuous. Compared to drug solutions in lipophilic vehicles, MEPG improved drug delivery into viable skin layers by 2.5-38-fold; the magnitude of penetration enhancement mediated by MEPG into viable skin increased with drug lipophilicity, even though the absolute amount of drug delivered decreased. Delivery of progesterone and tocopherol, but not lycopene (the most lipophilic compound), increased up to 2.5-fold with MEW, and higher amounts of these two drugs were released from MEW (2-2.5-fold). Both microemulsions were considered safe for topical application, but MEPG-mediated decrease in the viability of reconstructed epidermis was more pronounced, suggesting its higher potential for irritation. We conclude that MEPG is a safe and suitable nanocarrier to deliver a variety of lipophilic drugs into viable skin layers, but the use of MEW might be more advantageous for drugs in the lower range of lipophilicity.

Understanding effects of topical ingredients on electrical measurement of skin hydration

OBJECTIVE

Methods that assess skin hydration based on changes in its electrical properties are widely used in both cosmetic and medical research. However, the devices themselves often give results which are significantly different to each other. Although some work has previously been carried out to try and understand what these devices are actually reading, it was based on a technique for measuring the devices' responses to filter discs impregnated with different liquids, which could in itself be influencing the measurements. Presented here is a new method for measuring the devices' direct responses to different materials and solutions which removes any other confounding effects, thereby providing a clearer insight into their operation.

METHODS

The responses of a variety of different liquids and solutions were measured using the Corneometer^® and Skicon^® . A new method is presented, based on the use of a custom-designed PTFE block to hold the liquids, allowing their measurement without using a filter paper. This method was developed and tested against the existing filter paper-based approach.

RESULTS

Differences were observed in results between filter paper- and PTFE block-based approach, indicating that the filter paper itself is capable of influencing the measurements and as such is not to be recommended for assessing how different liquids impact on results from the devices. A positive correlation was observed between Corneometer^® and Skicon^® readings for certain solutions and under certain conditions. A large influence of salt concentration was noted for the Skicon^® device with no or minimal impact from the actual water itself, humectants and emollients. Salts, emollients, water and humectants were observed to have an effect on Corneometer^® readings.

CONCLUSIONS

Both the Corneometer^® and Skicon^® were influenced to different extents by chemicals other than water and therefore cannot be seen purely as measures of skin 'hydration'. Although there is strong evidence that the devices do correlate with expert assessment of skin dryness, the level of water in the skin is only part of the story when it comes to understanding the benefits of topical moisturizing products applied to the skin. An alternative approach would be to consider skin 'moisturization' as a property which is influenced by water, salts and other materials such as humectants and emollients, which is more consistent with how the stratum corneum itself helps to maintain its plasticity and flexibility. In the work presented here, the Corneometer^® was more suited to providing a measurement which reflects the impact of multiple different components.

The research about microscopic structure of emulsion membrane in O/W emulsion by NMR and its influence to emulsion stability

PURPOSE

This paper discussed the influence of microstructure of emulsion membrane on O/W emulsion stability.

METHODS

O/W emulsions were emulsified with equal dosage of egg yolk lecithin and increasing dosage of co-emulsifier (oleic acid or HS15). The average particle size and centrifugal stability constant of emulsion, as well as interfacial tension between oil and water phase were determined. The microstructure of emulsion membrane had been studied by (1)H/(13)C NMR, meanwhile the emulsion droplets were visually presented with TEM and IFM.

RESULTS

With increasing dosage of co-emulsifier, emulsions showed two stable states, under which the signal intensity of characteristic group (orient to lipophilic core) of egg yolk lecithin disappeared in NMR of emulsions, but that (orient to aqueous phase) of co-emulsifiers only had some reduction at the second stable state. At the two stable states, the emulsion membranes were neater in TEM and emulsion droplets were rounder in IFM. Furthermore, the average particle size of emulsions at the second stable state was bigger than that at the first stable state.

CONCLUSIONS

Egg yolk lecithin and co-emulsifier respectively arranged into monolayer and bilayer emulsion membrane at the two stable states. The microstructure of emulsion membrane was related to the stability of emulsion.