A comparison between interactions of triglyceride oil and mineral oil with proteins and their ability to reduce cleanser surfactant-induced irritation

Oxidative Stability and Protective Effect of the Mixture between Helianthus annuus L. and Oenothera biennis L. Oils on 3D Tissue Models of Skin Irritation and Phototoxicity

The present study was aimed to evaluate the oxidative stability as well as to assess the protective effect of the mixture of Helianthus annuus L. (HAO) and Oenothera biennis L. (OBO) oils on 3D tissue models of skin irritation and phototoxicity. The following methods were used: GS analysis (fatty acids composition), thiobarbituric acid-reactive substances assay (TBA) (lipid oxidation degree of tested samples), 3D EpiDerm models (skin irritation and phototoxicity). For HAO the detected saturated fatty acids (SFA) were palmitic acid (7.179%), stearic acid (3.586%), eicosanoic (0.138%) and docosanoic acid (0.548%) The monounsaturated acids (MUFA) were palmitoleic acid (0.158%) and oleic acid (28.249%) and the polyunsaturated acids (PUFA) were linoleic acid (59.941%) and linolenic acid (0.208%). For OBO the detected SFA were myristic acid (0.325%), pentadecylic acid (0.281%), palmitic (7.2%), stearic (2.88%), and arachidic acid (0.275%). Regarding MUFA, even a lower proportion (8.196%) was observed, predominantly being oleic acid, cis form (7.175%), oleic (n10) (0.558%) and 11-eicosenoic (0.210%) acids. The higher content was found for PUFA (82.247%), the most significant proportions being linoleic acid (72.093%), arachidonic acid (9.812%) and linolenic (0.233%). Obtained data indicate a good oxidative stability and biocompatibility of the mixture on the 3D EpiDerm models with no irritant and no phototoxic effects. Oenothera biennis L. oil may be an excellent natural choice in order to delay or prevent oxidative damage of Helianthus annuus L. oil.

Effect of New Surfactants on Biological Properties of Liquid Soaps

Liquid soaps are the basic cosmetics used to clean the skin of the hands. Frequent hand washing prevents viral contamination but may damage the skin’s hydro-lipid layer, leading to various types of irritation. Therefore, four liquid soap formulas were developed with three amphoteric surfactants: Cocamidopropyl Betaine (LS II), CocamidopropylHydroxysultaine (LS III), and newly synthesized Evening PrimroseaamidopropylSulfobetaine (LS IV). We evaluated the skin irritating potential (zein number, bovine albumin test) and cytotoxicity (AlamarBlue™, Cell viability, and Cell cycle assays) on HaCaT cell line. We observed lower values of the zein number and bovine albumin tests after adding soaps with surfactants (the highest differences in LS IV) compared to the base soap (LS I). However, LS I and LS II did not differ in cytotoxic assays. Therefore, adding LS III and LS IV seems potentially more dangerous to the cells. However, it should be noted that cells were continuously exposed to liquid soaps for more than 24 h, so its cytotoxic effects after dermal use in humans may be unnoticeable. Concluding, results suggest that the newly synthesized LS IV should improve the safety of liquid hand washing soaps.

Application of Levan-Rich Digestate Extract in the Production of Safe-to-Use and Functional Natural Body Wash Cosmetics

The study focused on the evaluation of the possibility of using a levan-rich digestate extract in the production of safe and functional body wash cosmetics. Model shower gels were designed and formulated on the basis of raw materials of natural origin. Prepared prototypes contained various extract concentrations (16.7; 33; 50%). A gel without extract was used as a reference. The samples were evaluated for their safety in use and functionality. The results showed that the use of high-concentration levan-rich digestate extract in a shower gel resulted in a significant reduction in the negative impact on the skin. For example, the zein value decreased by over 50% in relation to the preparation without the extract. An over 40% reduction in the emulsifying capacity of hydrophobic substances was also demonstrated, which reduces skin dryness after the washing process. However, the presence of the extract did not significantly affect the parameters related to functionality. Overall, it was indicated that levan-rich digestate extract can be successfully used as a valuable ingredient in natural cleansing cosmetics.

Evaluation of the Quality of Bath Cosmetics in Powder Form Depending on the Selection of Fillers

The aim of the study was to evaluate the effects of hydrophilic microcrystalline cellulose, hydrophobic talc and mixtures of cellulose and talc when used as fillers in powdered bath cosmetics. A number of model formulations were developed that contained fillers in different compositions. Prototypical formulations were prepared and evaluated for their functional properties and skin-drying effect. An increase in the concentration of talc was found to reduce the ability of the formulations to emulsify fatty soils and, consequently, decrease the skin-drying effect after washing. Another result of the study is that a high content of talc does not significantly impair the foaming ability, and the presence of talc improves the stability of generated foam.

Application of Newly Synthesized Sulfobetaine Based on Sweet Almond Oil in Bath Liquids for Sensitive Skin

Three formulations for bath liquids were developed, differing in the type of amphoteric surfactant applied. The formulations used Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidpropyl Hydroxide and newly synthesized sulfobetaine based on sweet almond oil (Oleicamidopropyl Sultaine). The molecular structure of the surfactant used in the manufactured formulations has a negatively charged sulfonate group and a positively charged quaternary nitrogen atom. Such molecular structures suggest that the functional properties of this substance are mild. Based on the research, it was found that the bath fluid containing the newly synthesized sulfobetaine based on sweet almond oil had the lowest zein number, the lowest pH increase of bovine albumin solution and the lowest ability to emulsify fatty dirt. This indicates a very low irritant effect of the tested bath liquid.

Structural Study of (Hydroxypropyl)Methyl Cellulose Microemulsion-Based Gels Used for Biocompatible Encapsulations

(Hydroxypropyl)methyl cellulose (HPMC) can be used to form gels integrating a w/o microemulsion. The formulation in which a microemulsion is mixed with a hydrated HPMC matrix has been successfully used as a carrier of biocompatible ingredients. However, little is known about the structure of these systems. To elucidate this, scanning electron microscopy was used to examine the morphology and the bulk of the microemulsion-based gels (MBGs) and small-angle X-ray scattering to clarify the structure and detect any residual reverse micelles after microemulsion incorporation in the gel. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy was applied using spin probes to investigate the polar and non-polar areas of the gel. Furthermore, the enzyme-labelling technique was followed to investigate the location of an enzyme in the matrix. A structural model for HPMC matrix is proposed according to which, although a w/o microemulsion is essential to form the final gel, no microemulsion droplets can be detected after incorporation in the gel. Channels are formed by the organic solvent (oil), which are coated by surfactant molecules and a water layer in which the enzyme can be hosted.

In vivo Raman spectroscopy study on the stimulation mechanism of surfactant

BACKGROUND

Surfactant is widely used in skin care products and cleansers, while it may cause physical discomfort. In this study, in vivo Raman spectroscopy was used to explore surfactant irritation mechanism on skin, which was not found in literature.

METHODS

Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was chosen to represent surfactant. Research on the negative effect of SDS was undertaken by scanning the two states of the skin (without and with the contact of SDS), respectively, on six volunteers, by means of Raman technique and skin magnifier.

RESULTS

The damage to the surface of normal skin by SDS was visible from the photographs taken by skin magnifier, and the apparent damage matched the damage that was happening underneath the skin elucidated by Raman spectra. Compared to the normal skin, the inter-cellular lipids (ICL) lateral packing order of the damaged skin was significantly reduced in 2-12 μm of skin depth (P < 0.05), deeper than 12 μm was not detected. The skin depth of 0-2 μm could not be determined due to strong interference of SDS. Significant change in the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin was not found.

Amphiphilic cationic polymers as effective substances improving the safety of use of body wash gels

Cationic surfactants have a wide range of applications in the cosmetic industry. The present study is an attempt to determine the effect of an amphiphilic cationic polymer - a cationic derivative of guar gum - on the safety of use of body wash cosmetics. Model body wash gels based on an anionic surfactant, containing 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% of the studied compound, were subjected to analyses in order to evaluate their skin irritation effect and the ability to solubilize model sebum. Cell culture studies were also carried out. In addition, the effect of the cationized guar gum derivative on the key quality parameters of body wash cosmetics (viscosity and foaming properties) was assessed. The analyses showed that the addition of the cationic guar gum derivative induced a significant increase in the safety of use of the model body wash gels without causing any impairment of the functional properties of the product.

Reduction of Irritation Potential Caused by Anionic Surfactants in the Use of Various Forms of Collagen Derived from Marine Sources in Cosmetics for Children

Surfactants, which are the basic ingredients in washing cosmetics, can cause skin irritation. In the case of washing cosmetics intended for children, it is necessary to select the composition in such a way as to ensure maximum reduction or even elimination of the irritant effect of the final product. The paper attempts to improve the safety of bath cosmetics for children by introducing: collagen amino acids (150 Da), hydrolysed collagen (12000 Da) and soluble collagen (300 000 Da). Zein value, bovine albumin, and human keratinocyte cell line studies have shown a significant decrease in the irritant potential of the compositions following the introduction of the proposed additives, which is more pronounced with the increase in the molecular weight of marine collagen. An important part of this work is a mechanism proposed by the authors, according to which the addition of the proposed additives can increase safety of the application of cosmetics for children.

Interactions between surfactants and the skin - Theory and practice

One of the primary causes of skin irritation is the use of body wash cosmetics and household chemicals, since they are in direct contact with the skin, and they are widely available and frequently used. The main ingredients of products of this type are surfactants, which may have diverse effects on the skin. The skin irritation potential of surfactants is determined by their chemical and physical properties resulting from their structure, and specific interactions with the skin. Surfactants are capable of interacting both with proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum. By penetrating through this layer, surfactants are also able to affect living cells in deeper regions of the skin. Further skin penetration may result in damage to cell membranes and structural components of keratinocytes, releasing proinflammatory mediators. By causing irreversible changes in cell structure, surfactants can often lead to their death. The paper presents a critical review of literature on the effects of surfactants on the skin. Aspects discussed in the paper include the skin irritation potential of surfactants, mechanisms underlying interactions between compounds of this type and the skin which have been proposed over the years, and verified methods of reducing the skin irritation potential of surfactant compounds. Basic research conducted in this field over many years translate into practical applications of surfactants in the cosmetic and household chemical industries. This aspect is also emphasized in the present study.

Improvement in the Safety of Use of Hand Dishwashing Liquids Through the Addition of Hydrophobic Plant Extracts

We investigated the effect of hydrophobic extract concentration on the safety of using hand dishwashing liquids (HDL). A series of formulations was prepared, differing in the concentration of the hydrophobic chamomile extract obtained in supercritical CO₂ conditions (from 0 to 0.7 %). We found that an increase in the concentration of the extract led to a decrease in the zein number, and reduced changes in the pH level of bovine serum albumin solution (i.e., two parameters determining the irritant activity of the formulations). It was also found that the additives reduced transepidermal water loss and improved the skin hydration level. Based on the findings of the study, a mechanism has been proposed, according to which hydrophobic plant extracts form aggregates in the volume phase of the washing bath. The surface of the aggregates is the adsorption area for surfactant monomers responsible for the irritant effect. Increasing the addition of the extract was shown to reduce the negative impact of the formulations on the skin of the hands, thus contributing to a greater safety of use of HDL.