Influence of facial skin ageing characteristics on the perceived age in a Russian female population

Facial Skin Aging Characteristics of the Old-Perceived Age in a 20-40 Years Old Chinese Female Population

Purpose

In the quest for a youthful appearance, women use a variety of anti- aging cosmetics. Defining skin problems is especially important for the selection of anti-aging solutions. However, the skin problems faced by Chinese women at different ages are different. This study aimed at Chinese women aged 20-40 years old and analyzed facial skin aging characteristics of those with old-perceived age.

Patients and Methods

The total of 400 standard facial photographs from Chinese female volunteers aged 20-40 was assessed by another 126 Chinese women. The facial areas and skin aging characteristics that influenced age estimation were collected at the same time. Skin aging characteristics, including wrinkles, skin tone, pigmentation and pores, were analyzed based on facial photographs. Groupings were made based on deviation of perceived age from chronological age, and skin aging characteristics among groups were compared.

Results

The perceived age of Chinese women aged 20-40 has a moderate correlation with chronological age. Women aged 20-30 generally had an old-perceived age. Deep skin tone was a prominent problem in this age group, with those who had the older-perceived age observed the darker and redder skin tone. Women aged 31-40 were perceived partly old but appeared with wrinkle aggravation, as well as deepening of redness, enlarged pores, and increased pigmentation at the mid-face. The perceived older women also had more visible frown lines and darker skin tone at the upper face.

Conclusion

The perceived age of Chinese women aged 20-40 tends to deviate from their chronological age. Women aged 20-30 with old-perceived age are associated with deep skin tone, even found darker and redder in older-perceived women group, while women aged 31-40 are associated with wrinkles and deterioration at mid-face area and upper-face problems drive more attention in older-perceived women group.

A cross-sectional epidemiological study conducted in Argentina to evaluate the impact of the exposome on skin aging

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a gradual cumulative process that may be accelerated by various exposome factors.

AIMS

To investigate associations between exposome factors and facial skin aging in 11 locations in Argentina.

PATIENTS/METHODS

An observational, cross-sectional study with assessments by exposome questionnaire, Glogau photoaging classification from I to IV, AI-based algorithm analysis of 7 skin aging signs, and SCINEXA score.

RESULTS

Of 1346 participants, most were women (82%), aged 31-50 years (62%), of skin phototype III (52%), and living in urban areas (94%). The Glogau skin age was higher than the chronological age for 28% of overall participants, 36% of men, and 45% of participants from Ciudad de Buenos Aires versus 12% from Jujuy (p < 0.001). Being male (OR = 1.59; 95% CI 1.18-2.13), exposed to agrochemicals (OR = 1.59: 95% CI 1.01-2.51), of lower socioeconomic levels (OR = 2.06; 95% CI 1.32-3.21) and doing outdoor physical activity (OR = 1.33; 95% CI 1.00-1.76) increased the risk for premature aging. Odds decreased with high daily intake of water (OR = 0.76; 95% CI 0.59-0.97), daily dermocosmetic use (moisturizers [OR = 0.72; 95% CI 0.55-0.94], cleansers [OR = 0.53; CI 95% 0.42-0.67], retinoids [OR = 0.61; 95% CI 0.39-0.95]), and antiaging treatments (OR = 0.74; 95% CI 0.57-0.97).

CONCLUSIONS

Some exposome factors increased the risk for premature skin aging (physical outdoor activity, exposure to agrochemicals), while others were protective factors (high water intake, antiaging treatments, use of dermocosmetics). Locations with higher pollution levels had more premature skin aging.

Aging Challenges. Perceived Age – a New Predictor of Longevity?

The ageing process is accompanied by the manifestation of many characteristics, so-called biomarkers, which can be quantified and used to assess a patient's health status. One of these signs is the progressive decline of a human's facial look, which is described by the concept of 'perceived age'. Facial aging is the most important parameter of perceived age. However, over the years, researchers have identified risk factors that affect the facial skin, including smoking, systematic consumption of alcoholic beverages, overweight or underweight, environmental conditions, and psychosocial determinants. The influence of psychological state on the appearance and life prognosis is shown. The authors presented data from the international literature on the study of perceived age. The frontiers of using perceived age as a biomarker of aging were Danish scientists who developed the main methodological approaches to determine this indicator. One such methodology used in population studies has been the clinical technique of assessing perceived age through photography. The review presents this methodology in detail, with its advantages and modifications. The authors conclude that the measurement of an individual's perceived age can serve not only as a prognostic indicator,  but also over time can become a   useful marker of the effectiveness of various treatments. Until now perceived age has hardly been studied in population studies, the authors presented data from the works of V.A.  Labunskaya, G.V.  Serikov,  T.A.  Shkurko who develop the direction related to psychology of perceived age  and in their studies use social-psychological approaches of appearance assessment.

Are estimates of faces' ages less accurate when they wear sunglasses or face masks and do these disguises make it harder to later recognise the faces when undisguised?

This study examined whether our ability to accurately estimate unfamiliar faces' ages declines when they are wearing sunglasses or surgical-style face masks and whether these disguises make it harder to later recognise those faces when undisguised. In theory, both disguises should harm age estimation accuracy and later face recognition as they occlude facial information that is used to determine a face's age and identity. To establish whether this is the case, we had participants estimate the age of unfamiliar faces that were pictured wearing no disguises, sunglasses, or face masks. The participants then completed a face recognition test where they had to distinguish between the previously seen faces and new faces. Importantly, none of faces wore disguises in this latter test. Participants' estimates of the undisguised faces' ages were inaccurate by a Median of 5.15 years. Their accuracy barely changed when the faces wore sunglasses but declined by a Median of 1.30 years when they wore face masks. Moreover, subsequent undisguised face recognition was less likely to occur when the faces previously wore sunglasses or face masks, with large effects observed. These findings demonstrate the relative importance of different facial areas when estimating faces' ages and later recognising them. They also have implications for policing as they suggest it may be harder for eyewitnesses to accurately estimate the age of criminals who wear face masks during offences, and it may be harder for them to later recognise criminals in line-ups if the criminals wear sunglasses or face masks during offences.

In elderly Caucasian women, younger facial perceived age correlates with better forearm skin microcirculation reactivity

BACKGROUND

Visual and molecular changes occurring upon aging are rather well characterized. Still, aging signs show great significant inter-individual variations, and little is known concerning the link between perceived age and cutaneous microcirculation.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

To investigate this point, we recruited Caucasian women in their mid-50's to mid-70's and subsampled women looking older or younger than their age. We studied their facial skin color, as well as their microvascular reactivity to local heating assessed in the forearm skin. We also used skin biopsies from some of these women for gene expression or immunohistochemical analysis.

RESULTS

Clinical and instrumental analysis of skin color revealed that subjects who look 5 years younger differ only by a higher glowing complexion. Our most striking result is that subjects looking 5 years younger than their age present a higher microcirculation reactivity in forearm skin. Transcriptome comparison of skin samples from women looking older or younger than their age revealed 123 annotated transcripts differentially expressed, among which MYL9 relates to microcirculation. MYL9 is downregulated in the group of women looking younger than their real age. Microscopy shows that the labeling of MYL9 and CD31 are altered and heterogeneous with age, as is the morphology of microvessels.

CONCLUSION

Therefore, assessing generalized vascular reactivity in non-photo-exposed skin to focus on the intrinsic aging allows subtle discrimination of perceived age within elderly healthy subjects.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on the perceived radiance/glow in differently aged women of six countries

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the impact of Facial radiance or Glow on the perception of age (PA) and to assess which facial signs most influence PA.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The faces of 1058 differently aged women (18-80 years) of six different ethnicities/countries (China, Japan, Korea, India, South Africa, and Brazil) were photographed under standard conditions. These allowed to focus on 20 different facial signs that were further graded by experts, using referential Atlases dedicated to facial aging. In each of the six countries, 100 local women were recruited as naïve panels to express their perceptions on Glow and Age on each full-face photograph (blind coded) of the local studied woman.

RESULTS

A decreased Glow/Radiance appears clearly associated with an increased perceived age in all studied subjects, especially among Chinese, Japanese, and South African women. With regard facial signs, Skin texture (Wrinkles of all kinds), Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation signs prevail in almost all women at the exception of South African women where Pigmentation signs and Cheek skin pores largely predominate in the perception of both Glow and PA. Pigmentation signs are of a very high weight among Chinese and Japanese women.

CONCLUSION

Despite some collective agreements, the present study shows some specificities within the women of the six ethnicities/countries. PA, a core index of antiaging strategies, goes along with facial Glow in almost all studied women. The duller the facial skin, the older it is perceived.

Defining Skin Quality: Clinical Relevance, Terminology, and Assessment

BACKGROUND

Flawless skin is one of the most universally desired features, and demand for improvements in skin quality is growing rapidly. Skin quality has been shown to substantially impact emotional health, quality of life, self-perception, and interactions with others. Although skin quality improvements are a common end point in studies of cosmeceuticals, they are rarely assessed in clinical studies of other aesthetic treatments and products. Descriptive terminology for skin quality parameters also varies considerably within the aesthetic field, relying on a range of redundant and occasionally contradictory descriptors. In short, skin quality has not been clearly defined.

OBJECTIVE

The goal of this review is to highlight the importance of skin quality to patients and physicians, explore known and unknown factors comprising skin quality, and provide clarity regarding terminology, descriptors, and evaluation tools for assessing skin quality.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A review of the literature on skin quality was performed without limitation on publication date. Relevant articles are presented.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

We propose a framework of attributes contributing to skin quality rooted in 3 fundamental categories-visible, mechanical, and topographical-with the aim to provide information to help guide clinicians and inform future clinical studies.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on perceived ages in differently aged women of five ethnic origins

BACKGROUND

New gratification assessments, after skincare routines or makeup products, could benefit from innovative methods that could predict the culturally based perceptions of age.

AIMS

To determine the facial signs that most influence the perception of age in women of five different ethnic ancestries, assessed by the same ethnical naïve panel.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The faces of 1351 women, differently aged (18-80 years), from five countries (China, France, India, Japan, and South Africa) were photographed under the same standardized conditions in the five countries. Fourteen to 24 facial signs (grouped under five clusters, ie, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheeks skin pores) were focused, and their respective severities were graded using referential Skin Aging Atlases by the same panel of 15 experts and dermatologists. Five naïve panels, all comprising 100 local women, allowed to collect the perceived age, assessed from blind-coded full-face photographs.

RESULTS

Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, their differences vary according to ethnicities, particularly among a large part of Indian and South African women, judged older by about 5 and 7 years, respectively. Results show that the clusters of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging are predominant factors taken into account in almost all ethnicities, albeit at various extents, reaching almost 100% in French women. Pigmentation disorders appear important secondary factors in Japanese, South African, and Indian women. Vascular disorders, of a difficult grading in darker skin tones, were found of some impact in Japanese and Chinese women. Cheek skin pores were of minor or nil weight in the attribution of age, at the exception of South African women. Regarding facial areas which drive aging perception, it seems the upper-half face has prevalence for Chinese and Japanese women whereas the lower-half face has major importance for South African women.

CONCLUSION

Facial traits are differently perceived as signs of aging according to un-separable ethnic ancestries and cultural factors.

Depiction of ethnic facial aging by forensic artists and preliminary assessment of the applicability of facial averages

Many characteristics of facial aging are common to all. The age of their onset and which characteristics tend to predominate varies among individuals depending on many factors including their genetic makeup, life experiences, environment in which they live, and the regional, ethnic, or socially perceived group to which they belong. Forensic artists are often asked to provide sketches, 2D or 3D digital renderings, or sculptures representative of how an individual may appear at an older age based on a provided photograph, victim or witness description, and/or cranial remains. The challenge escalates when the subject is a member of a regional, ethnic, or other socially perceived group to which the artist has had little or no exposure. We describe aspects of adult facial aging that are of particular relevance to the forensic artist, applicable software tools, and pertinent facial databases, especially those emphasizing non-white populations. We demonstrate that facial averaging offers two key advantages to the artistic portrayal of facial aging: first, the technique requires relatively small reference databases from groups that may present logistical challenges to collect and second, that a facial average provides a useful representation of the gestalt of the age and ethnicity cohort to which a subject belongs. The artist may use an average along with other available information such as photo reference books, eyewitness descriptions, photos of immediate family members, and cranial structure to guide production of a facial composite drawing, digital age progression, or sculpture of the subject in question.

Quantitative evaluation of rejuvenation treatment of nasolabial fold wrinkles by regression model and 3D photography

OBJECTIVE

With the application of 3D photography, our study aimed to quantify parameters of static nasolabial fold wrinkles and establish mathematic regression model between parameters of wrinkles and age, further to quantitatively evaluate the effect of rejuvenation treatment in terms of age.

METHODS

From October 2016 to May 2018, 433 Chinese female volunteers, aged 25-60 years old, were enrolled in this study. Antera 3D camera was used to collect four parameters of static nasolabial fold wrinkles on the left and right sides of the volunteers, including overall size, average depth (mm), average width (mm), and maximum depth (mm). For those presented a linear relationship with age, univariate linear regression fitting was performed, followed by residual analysis, goodness of fit test, and significance test.

RESULTS

The results of univariate linear regression fitting showed there was a clear linear relationship between the maximum depth, average depth, overall size of nasolabial fold wrinkles and age, and the regression equations were established. The significance test of regression coefficients showed P values were less than .0001.

CONCLUSIONS

With application of the regression model between parameters of nasolabial fold wrinkles and age, the effect of rejuvenation treatment can be quantitatively evaluated in terms of age, which has certain reference and promotion value.

How Old Do I Look? Exploring the Facial Cues of Age in a Tasked Eye-Tracking Study

Importance: This is the first eye-tracking study to use a tasked age estimation paradigm to explore the facial cues of age as seen by casual observers. Objectives: Determine where observers gaze on faces when tasked with estimating an individual's age. Design, Setting, and Participants: This was a prospective controlled experiment, which took place at an academic tertiary referral center. In total, 220 casual observers (80 untasked, 140 tasked) viewed frontal facial images of women while an infrared eye-tracking monitor recorded their eye movements and fixations in real time. Main Outcomes and Measures: Multivariate Hotelling's analysis followed by planned posthypothesis testing was used to compare fixation durations for predefined regions of interest, including the central triangle, upper face, midface, lower face, and neck between tasked and untasked observers. Results: A total of 80 observers (mean age 23.6 years, 53% female) successfully completed the first untasked eye-tracking experiment. A total of 140 observers (mean age 26.1 years, 60% female) successfully completed the second age estimation experiment. On multivariate analysis, there were significant differences in the distribution of attention between observers in the two experiments (T² = 99.70; F(5,2084) = 19.9012, p < 0.0001). On planned posthypothesis testing, observers attended significantly more to the lower third of the face (0.20 s, p < 0.0001, 95% confidence interval (CI) 0.14-0.27 s) and neck (0.05 s, p = 0.0074, 95% CI 0.01-0.08 s) and less to the upper third of the face (-0.27 s, p < 0.0001, 95% CI -0.40 to -0.14 s) when tasked. There was no significant difference in time spent on the whole face in the two experiments, suggesting that peripheral elements such as hair color or jewelry did not significantly influence gaze patterns. Conclusions and Relevance: Humans form judgments about others every day of their lives, and age perception colors their every interaction. To our knowledge, this study is the first to use eye tracking to investigate facial cues of age. The results showed that when tasked with estimating age, casual observer visual attention was shifted toward the lower face when compared with those who were untasked. These data inform our understanding of facial age perception and potential areas to target for facial rejuvenation. Level of Evidence: NA.

Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine

BACKGROUND

The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product.

AIMS

In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one.

METHODS

Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream).

RESULTS

Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles.

CONCLUSION

These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

DermaTOP Blue and Antera 3D as methods to assess cosmetic solutions targeting eyelid sagging

BACKGROUND

As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established. We investigate the use of the DermaTOP fringe projector and Antera 3D Camera to this end.

METHODS

Eyelid topographic measurements were collected on 20 female volunteers aged 50-75 years with the DermaTOP and Antera 3D. The DermaTOP and Antera 3D measurements were assessed for reproducibility and product effect detection capabilities.

RESULTS

The DermaTOP and Antera 3D successfully measured sagging feature volume, demonstrated reproducibility of measurement and furthermore were suitably sensitive to allow for detection of sagging feature volume reduction after a single application of aqueous tightening serum. DermaTOP parameters were found to moderately correlated with the Antera 3D parameters.

CONCLUSION

Both the DermaTOP and Antera 3D allow for quantitative measurement of eyelid sagging feature volume and in-turn permit evaluation of anti-ageing cosmetic preparations targeting the eyelid.

Efficacy of phototherapy to treat facial ageing when using a red versus an amber LED: a protocol for a randomised controlled trial

INTRODUCTION

The skin undergoes morphological and physiological changes with the advancing age of an individual. These changes may be caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that contribute to cellular ageing and consequent skin ageing. The term photoageing is used to characterise the ageing of the skin caused by solar radiation. Clinically, the skin becomes more flaccid, thicker and hyperpigmented, while there is an early appearance of wrinkles and other skin changes, such as skin cancer. Nowadays, there are numerous treatments for ageing skin, and one of them is with the use of phototherapy, which uses light-emitting diodes (LEDs). The objective of this study will be to evaluate the percentages of reduction in the volume of periocular wrinkles when treated with red and amber LEDs.

METHODS AND ANALYSIS

All of the participants will receive photobiomodulation to treat their periocular wrinkles. They will be using red and amber LEDs, with one colour being used on each hemiface. The facial side to be treated with each colour will be randomised. After an interval of 180 days, the participants will receive a cross-treatment. The primary variable of the study is the volume of periocular wrinkles (crow's feet), which will be measured by a VisioFace equipment. The secondary variables are elasticity (measured by Cutometer) and hydration (measured by Corneometer). Quality of life and self-assessment of the participants will be measured using the adapted Melasma Quality of Life scale - Brazilian Portuguese adaption (MelasQoL-BP) and Skindex-29 questionnaires. All of the variables will be measured before and after a group of 10 sessions.

ETHICS AND DISSEMINATION

This protocol was approved by the Research Ethics Committee of the Nove de Julho University (acceptance number: 2.550.732). This trial has been registered in the Registro Brasileiro de Ensaios Clínicos (Brazilian Clinical Trials Registry) (REBEC number: RBR-6YFCBM). This study is not recruiting yet.

TRIAL REGISTRATION NUMBER

RBR6YFCBM; Pre-results.

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness

OBJECTIVE

Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study.

METHOD

Two separate double-blind vehicle-controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness.

RESULTS

Twelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient.

CONCLUSION

In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing 'cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.