The influence of hair lipids in ethnic hair properties

A systematic review on the lipid composition of human hair

Hair lipid composition varies by ethnic hair type and by hair layer. Lipids in the cuticle, cortex, and medulla of the hair shaft provide a protective barrier to environmental and chemical damage, prevent hair breakage and desorption, and affect the elastic and tensile properties of hair. The aim of this systematic review is to provide an overview of the lipid composition and ethnic differences of human hair, effects of external damage on lipid content and properties, and changes in hair lipid composition associated with disease states. PubMed/MEDLINE was searched up to March 2021 according to PRISMA guidelines for articles discussing the lipid content of human hair and effects of physical, chemical, or environmental damage, and disease. Fifty-nine articles investigating the lipid content of hair were included for review. Lipids affect fluid permeability, hydration, strength, and texture of ethnic hair fibers. Lipid loss is accelerated by hair-damaging treatments such as bleach, dye, perm, straightening, and surfactant use, and sun and aging processes, leading to dehydrated, breakable, disordered, and dull hair. Diseases including acne, alopecia, and breast, gastric, prostate, lung, and rectal cancers display elevated hair lipid levels. Lipids are vital in protection against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Further studies are needed to investigate the effects of lipids on the structural properties of ethnic hair, and changes in hair lipid composition with various dermatologic and systemic diseases.

Impact of hair type, hair sample weight, external hair exposures, and race on cumulative hair cortisol

The biomarker cortisol assesses the impact of biopsychosocial stressors that activate the stress response system. Hair has emerged as a valid and non-invasive means of gauging cumulative cortisol deposited over month-long periods of time. Established protocols for the extraction of hair cortisol are being validated and refined in humans, yet methodological information about hair characteristics on cortisol remains limited. In addition to external hair exposures (e.g. dye, time spent outside), we examined hair categorization or type (e.g. kinky, straight) by extending a hair typing methodology for scientific use that is currently popular among hair care professionals. We then examined the interaction between hair type and race on cortisol levels with a hair questionnaire. Three studies were pooled to investigate how sample weight, hair type, race, heat exposures, and hair treatments impacted cumulative hair cortisol concentrations. Study 1 consisted of Adult Kenyan Medical Workers (N = 44); Study 2 Mexican and Mexican Americans (N = 106); and Study 3 American Youth (N = 107). We found significantly higher cortisol in 5 mg of hair when compared to larger sample weights, and higher cortisol in those who spent more time outdoors. Cortisol concentrations differed between racial groups and varied by hair type; moreover, there were directional differences in cumulative cortisol from straighter to curlier hair types which depended on racial group. In addition to demonstrating the impact of relatively novel control factors like hair sample weight, outdoor exposure, and hair type, the present study illustrates the importance of disentangling hair type and race to understand variability in cumulative hair cortisol. These influences should be included in future studies that measure hair cortisol.

Lipid distribution on ethnic hairs by Fourier transform infrared synchrotron spectroscopy

BACKGROUND

A synchrotron-based Fourier transform infrared micro-spectrometer (μ-FTIR) allows the spatial determination of lipids across the different layers of ethnic hairs and differentiates between the lipid order arrangement and quantity.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The three ethnic fibers were delipidized, the lipid extracts were characterized, and the delipidized fibers were studied by dynamic vapor sorption experiments (DVS) and FTIR-synchrotron techniques.

RESULTS

The average spectra from the different hair regions exhibited the most intense CH₂ sym peaks on the medulla, followed by those from the cuticle and cortex for all hairs of different ethnicities. Differences in the lipid fraction of the three hair types have been observed, and they can explain some barrier properties. African virgin hair was demonstrated to have more lipids mainly in the medulla, which implies an important hydrophobicity with low hysteresis between absorption and desorption water vapor processes. In addition, these lipids are highly disordered, mainly in the cuticle, which can be related to its high water vapor diffusion. Asian and Caucasian virgin hairs presented a similar lipid order in all regions, with similar diffusion coefficients. Results indicate that the higher order of the lipid bilayer hinders water permeation kinetics in some way.

CONCLUSION

The differences in the presence and organization of the lipids in the different regions of the African hair can account for its differentiation with regards to moisturization and swelling from the other types of fibers.

Investigation of the interactions of cationic guar with human hair by electrokinetic analysis

Objective

Cationic guar is an important polysaccharide used as a hair conditioning agent in personal care products. In this article, we report streaming potential data demonstrating its behaviour as it interacts electrostatically with hair. Several cationic guar variants with different molecular weights (MWs) and charge densities (CDs) were examined.

Methods

All experiments were carried out with a custom‐designed streaming potential instrument so that in situ, real‐time data were monitored during the treatment of a hair plug with aqueous solutions of cationic guar and subsequent treatment with anionic surfactants—sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)—commonly found in contemporary shampoo formulations.

Results

The MW of the cationic guar variants plays an integral role in determining the thickness of the adsorbed polymer layer on the hair surface while CD influences the zeta potential. Data were also generated for the treatment of hair with a cationic flexible polymer (polyquaternium‐28) and cationic conditioning surfactant (behentrimonium chloride) to provide a frame of reference. The deposition behaviour on hair of high MW cationic guar variants is distinct from these conventional molecules in terms of its electrokinetic properties. We also examined the electrokinetic behaviour of cationic guar on hair types from different racial backgrounds. While the cationic guar treatment yielded similar results for the different hair types, anionic surfactant treatment resulted in quicker sorption and desorption from African, European 65% grey, and Mulatto hair as compared to Chinese, European dark brown, and Indian hair.

Conclusion

We introduce an in situ technique for measuring the dynamic sorption/desorption of charged molecules on the surface of human hair. Evaluation of a series of cationic guar species revealed varying behaviour depending on the MW and CD of the polysaccharide. Our data also demonstrate differences in the desorption properties of typical shampoo surfactants for hair from diverse racial backgrounds.

Demographic and psychosocial factors associated with hair cortisol concentrations in preschool children

BACKGROUND

Early life stress has enduring effects on physical and mental health. Hair cortisol concentrations (HCCs) reflect exposures to contextual stressors in early life, but are understudied in preschool children.

METHODS

Hair samples from children (N = 693) during clinic visits (CVs) scheduled at 1-4 years (CV1-CV4) were measured using validated assay methods for HCC.

RESULTS

HCCs were highest at CV1 and decreased at CV2-CV4, with no sex differences. Black children had higher HCC than White/other children; these differences persisted even after adjusting for socioeconomic factors. Bivariable analyses showed significant effects on HCC for Black race, with specific demographic and psychosocial factors at different ages. Multivariable analyses showed that higher HCC at CV1 were associated with Black race and male sex; at CV2 with Black race, lower maternal self-esteem, socioeconomic adversity, and the child's risk for developmental delay; at CV3 with Black race; at CV4 with maternal depression and the child's prior HCC values.

CONCLUSIONS

HCCs were higher in Black children than White/other races; differences were related to maternal factors, socioeconomic adversity, and the child's risk for developmental delay. Public health measures to reduce disparities between Blacks and other races must also consider the long-term effects of chronic stress in early life.

Asian Hair: A Review of Structures, Properties, and Distinctive Disorders

Asian hair is known for its straightness, dark pigmentation, and large diameter. The cuticle layer in Asians is thicker with more compact cuticle cells than that in Caucasians. Asian hair generally exhibits the strongest mechanical properties, and its cross-sectional area is determined greatly by genetic variations, particularly from the ectodysplasin A receptor gene. However, knowledge on Asian hair remains unclear with limited studies. This article aimed to review and summarize the characteristics and properties of Asian hair. It also aimed to discuss hair disorders including linear lupus panniculitis and pseudocyst of the scalp that occur distinctively in Asian populations.

The what, why and how of curly hair: a review

An attempt to understand and explain a peculiarity that was observed for curly fibres during experimentation revealed disparate literature reporting on several key issues. The phenotypical nature of curly fibres is only accurately understood within the larger scope of hair fibres, which are highly complex biological structures. A brief literature search produced thousands of research items. Besides the large amount of information on the topic, there was also great variability in research focus. From our review, it appeared that the complexity of hair biology, combined with the variety of research subtopics, often results in uncertainty when relating different aspects of investigation. During the literature investigation, we systematically categorized elements of curly hair research into three basic topics: essentially asking why fibres curl, what the curly fibre looks like and how the curly fibre behaves. These categories were subsequently formalized into a curvature fibre model that is composed of successive but distinctive tiers comprising the elements in curly hair research. The purpose of this paper is twofold: namely to present (i) a literature review that explores the different aspects of curly human scalp hair and (ii) the curvature fibre model as a systemized approach to investigating curly hair.

Prevention of lipid loss from hair by surface and internal modification

Surfactants during routine washing have a tremendous effect on lipid loss from hair. This study aims to understand the loss of lipids from hair upon contact with surfactants and develop a way to prevent the lipid loss. The change in lipid levels depends on the relative hydrophobicity of the lipid. We herein propose that the change in lipid levels can be protected by two modifications. In the case of fatty acids and cholesterol (group A), the concentration difference between virgin hair versus surface modified hair with highly charged polymer was 22 to 32% higher after washing with surfactants while the loss of squalene and wax esters (group B) in response to surfactants still occurred even after the surface modification. In the hair treated by internal modification with the carbodiimide reaction, 52.0 to 81.3% more lipids in group B were prevented than in the untreated hair. Finally, different types of lipids were successfully protected by surface and internal modifications from the surfactant treatment. This study will be the basis for understanding the mechanisms by which surfactants damage the lipid barrier of tissues including hair and for establishing strategies to defend the barrier.

Lipid loses and barrier function modifications of the brown-to-white hair transition

BACKGROUND

The main objective of this study was to determine the lipid profile of brown and white Caucasian hair fibres and the effects of lipids on the properties of fibres.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

To determine the structures of white and brown hair lipid bilayers, cross sections of fibres of both hair types were examined using synchrotron-based μ-FTIR mapping. Dynamic vapour sorption (DVS) analyses were also performed to determine the differences in the barrier function of both fibres.

RESULTS

Spatial identification of lipids showed that a great amount of lipids was present in the medulla of fibres of both hair types, but important differences were also observed between cuticles of the different fibres. The cuticle of a white hair fibre showed a significant decrease in its lipid content, but did not show differences in the lateral packing order with respect to the cuticle of a brown hair fibre. The cortex and medulla of the white hair fibre also exhibited a significant decrease in its lipid content but with a higher lateral packing order than brown hair. Using DVS analysis, it was found that the water dynamics of white hair fibres differed from those of brown hair fibres, showing a decrease in their total capacity to absorb water and an increase in the velocity of the exchange of water with the environment.

CONCLUSION

The results of both techniques demonstrated a high correlation between the characteristics of the lipids located in the cuticle and the water dynamics of the fibres.

Unique Hair Properties that Emerge from Combinations of Multiple Races

The fusion of ethnicity in human populations is becoming increasingly common, so the conventional definition of ethnicity is going to become deficient. The aim of this study was to investigate the hair properties which emerge from combinations of multiple races. Hair fibers collected from mixed-race subjects were investigated and classifications of hair shape as well as measurements of thickness, ellipticity and surface damage were carried out. The results show that hair shapes varied widely: straight hair and very curly hair often existed together on the heads of individuals with mixed ethnicity. Curly hair tended to be thicker than loose wavy hair. As for damage to the hair surface, the hairs of mixed-race subjects showed a very unique property in that they were much more severely damaged near the root (the proximal end) than the hairs of monoracial subjects. The hair shape (curly or loose wavy) was not related to the level of damage. The severe damage near the proximal end is thought to be caused by entanglement, due to the presence of various curl phases. This study reports the unique characteristics of hairs of subjects with mixed ethnicity, which have never been noted in the previous studies on subjects with a monoracial background.

External lipid function in ethnic hairs

OBJECTIVE

The main aim of this study is to characterize the external lipids of different ethnic hairs and to study the contribution of the exogenous lipids on their physicochemical properties.

METHODS

On the extraction procedure, sebaceous lipids from the exterior of the fiber are removed. The influence of those free lipids on the hair properties, such as contact angle, mechanical characteristics, and sorption of water, will be evaluated to determine permeation characteristics of the keratin fibers. Relationship with lipid order was also determined by infrared spectroscopy (IR).

RESULTS

Lipid extraction indicates the greatest amount of total lipids for African hair. Caucasian lipid extracts present the higher melting point and phase transition temperatures. This could be related to higher hydration and lower diffusion coefficient of the Caucasian fibers. A decrease in moisture was found in the lipid-extracted fibers. This diminution of the maximum water regain in all cases could be due to a higher water desorption. IR results indicate that Caucasian and moreover African native fibers present the most quantity of lipids, and the similar frequency of all fibers indicates a lamellar/orthorhombic order arrangement.

CONCLUSION

The hexane/tert-butanol extraction was demonstrated to modify not only cuticular but also cortex lipids. Exogenous lipid depletion in all fibers indicates a less water content and higher water desorption. However, lipid depleted Caucasian fibers presents an increase in the lipid order which could be related to the different saturation of the lipid extract and its improvement in breaking tenacity.

Systems Approach to Human Hair Fibers: Interdependence Between Physical, Mechanical, Biochemical and Geometric Properties of Natural Healthy Hair

Contextual interpretation of hair fiber data is often blind to the effects of the dynamic complexity between different fiber properties. This intrinsic complexity requires systems thinking to decipher hair fiber accurately. Hair research, studied by various disciplines, follows a reductionist research approach, where elements of interest are studied from a local context with a certain amount of detachment from other elements or contexts. Following a systems approach, the authors are currently developing a cross-disciplinary taxonomy to provide a holistic view of fiber constituents and their interactions within large-scale dynamics. Based on the development process, this paper presents a review that explores the associated features, interrelationships and interactive complexities between physical, mechanical, biochemical and geometric features of natural, healthy hair fibers. Through the review, the importance of an appropriate taxonomy for interpreting hair fiber data across different disciplines is revealed. The review also demonstrates how seemingly unrelated fiber constituents are indeed interdependent and that these interdependencies may affect the behavior of the fiber. Finally, the review highlights how a non-integrative approach may have a negative impact on the reliability of hair data interpretation.