Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair

Reinforcing chemically treated human hair with citric acid

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this work was to conduct a systematic study to evaluate the performance of citric acid (CA), an example of a commonly used organic acid in hair cosmetics, on different types of chemically treated hair and to better understand how CA works.

METHODS

Consumer-centric routines were used to prepare the chemically treated hair, namely high-lift bleached, middle-lift bleached, permanently coloured and a combination of permed and coloured hair. Hair was subsequently treated with CA and hair reinforcement was investigated by physical techniques: High Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry (HPDSC), Miniature Tensile Test (MTT), Cyclic Fatigue Tensile Test (CFTT) & Micro X-ray Diffraction (μXRD) as well as chemical analysis (elemental, amino acids).

RESULTS

CA treatment demonstrably enhances the structural integrity of chemically treated hair. DSC revealed increased crosslinking density of keratin-associated proteins (KAPs) in the hair cortex, evidenced by a 6.7% to 15.0% increase in denaturation temperature, varying with the specific chemical treatment. This improvement translates to enhanced mechanical properties, with tensile elastic modulus increasing by 7.5% to 23.5% and fatigue resistance (median cycles to break) improving by a remarkable 56% to 124%. Furthermore, CA treatment significantly reduced hair calcium levels by 21% to 42%. XRD analysis confirmed a reduction in the structure and quantity of crystallized calcium soaps following CA treatment. The observed performance improvements likely stem from a combination of mechanisms, including calcium chelation, the treatment's pH, and reinforcement of the non-covalent protein network. The precise interplay of these factors appears to be influenced by the type of pre-existing chemical treatment on the hair.

CONCLUSION

CA effectively reinforces hair damaged by various common chemical treatments. However, these findings highlight the complex relationship between hair damage, chemical treatment type, and the efficacy of reinforcement strategies. The observed dependence of CA's performance on the level of pre-existing damage underscores the need for further research into developing targeted actives for consumers with specific and severe hair damage profiles. This opens exciting avenues for innovation in hair care tailored to individual needs.

Anti-Graying Effects of External and Internal Treatments with Luteolin on Hair in Model Mice

Little is known about the anti-graying effects of antioxidants on hair. The anti-graying effects of three antioxidants (luteolin, hesperetin, and diosmetin) on hair were investigated according to the sequential processes of hair graying that were previously clarified in model mice [Ednrb(+/-);RET-mice]. External treatment with luteolin, but not that with hesperetin or diosmetin, alleviated hair graying in Ednrb(+/-);RET-mice. Internal treatment with luteolin also mitigated hair graying in the mice. Although both luteolin treatments had very limited effects on hair cycles, the treatments suppressed the increase in p16ink4a-positive cells in bulges [senescent keratinocyte stem cells (KSCs)]. Both of the treatments also suppressed decreases in the expression levels of endothelins in KSCs and their receptor (Ednrb) in melanocyte stem cells (MSCs) and alleviated hair graying in the mice. Luteolin is a special antioxidant with an anti-graying potency through improvement of age-related dysfunction in signaling between endothelins in KSCs and their receptor in MSCs. Luteolin for topical and oral use is commercially available to people in the form of supplements. Similar processes of hair graying in Ednrb(+/-);RET-mice and humans have been reported. These results are encouraging for the practical application of luteolin as a medicine with an anti-graying effect on hair in humans.

Recent Progress in Hair Science and Trichology

Hair is important to our appearance as well as to protect our heads. Human hair mainly consists of proteins (80-85%), melanin pigments (0-5%), water (10-13%), and lipids (1-6%). The physicochemical properties of hair have been studied for over 100 years. However, they are not yet thoroughly understood. In this review, recent progress and the latest findings are summarized from the following three perspectives: structural characteristics, delivery and distribution of active ingredients, and hair as a template. The structural characteristics of hair have been mainly investigated by microscopic and/or spectroscopic techniques such as atomic force microscopy integrated with infrared spectroscopy (AFM-IR) and rheological measurements. The distribution of active ingredients has been generally evaluated through techniques such as nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry (NanoSIMS). And finally, attempts to explore the potential of hair to be used as a substrate for flexible device fabrication will be introduced.

Enzymatic Crosslinking of Amino Acids Improves the Repair Effect of Keratin on Hair Fibre

Although keratin can effectively repair hair fibres and enhance their moisture content and flexibility, it has a relatively low affinity for hair. In this study, the effects of transglutaminase (TGase)-commonly used to catalyse crosslinking of proteins or amino acids-in crosslinking serine and hydrolysed wool keratin to repair damaged hair and protect healthy hair were studied. Treatment with a repair solution containing hydrolysed wool keratin, serine, and TGase improved the physical and chemical properties of damaged hair samples. The alkali solubility of damaged hair samples decreased by 50.53%, fracture stress increased from 1.031 to 1.806 N, and fracture strain increased from 9.51 to 19.88 mm. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and X-ray analysis showed that amide bonds increased in damaged hair samples treated with the repair solution and hair crystallinity increased. Differential scanning calorimetry showed that the repair solution improved the thermal stability of damaged hair. After five cycles of washing, the effects of the repair solution were still apparent in damaged hair samples. The enzymatic solution had stronger repair effects than general hair care products and reduced water loss rates in damaged hair samples; repaired hair samples were also softer and brighter. The repair solution was effective in protecting healthy hair samples against chemical damage. The materials used to prepare the repair solution are all bio-based, and treatment with this product is safer and longer lasting.

Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review

There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and "greener" hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community towards natural colorants that serve to replace their synthetic toxic counterparts. This review article encompasses the historical applications of a vast array of natural plant hair dyes and summarizes the possible coloration mechanisms (direct dyeing and mordant dyeing). Current information on phytochemicals (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) used for hair dyeing are summarized, including their botanical sources, color chemistry and biological/toxicological activities. A particular focus is given on research into new natural hair dye sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and applications, such as the synthetic biology approach for colorant production, encapsulation techniques for stabilization and the development of inorganic nanocarriers. In addition, innovative in vitro approaches for the toxicological assessments of natural hair dye cosmetics are highlighted.

Improving the Mechanical Properties of Damaged Hair Using Low-Molecular Weight Hyaluronate

Chemical treatments of hair such as dyeing, perming and bleaching could cause mechanical damage to the hair, which weakens the hair fibers and makes the hair break more easily. In this work, hyaluronate (HA) with different molecular weight (MW) was investigated for its effects on restoring the mechanical properties of damaged hair. It was found that low-MW HA (average MW~42 k) could significantly improve the mechanical properties, specifically the elastic modulus, of overbleached hair. The fluorescent-labeling experiments verified that the low-MW HA was able to penetrate into the cortex of the hair fiber, while high-MW HA was hindered. Fourier transform infrared spectrometry (FT-IR) results implied the formation of additional intermolecular hydrogen bonds in the HA-treated hair. Thermos gravimetric analysis (TGA) indicated that the HA-treated hair exhibited decreased content of loosely bonded water, and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) characterizations suggested stronger water bonding inside the HA-treated hair, which could alleviate the weakening effect of loosely bonded water on the hydrogen bond networks within keratin. Therefore, the improved elastic modulus and mechanical strength of the HA-treated hair could be attributed to the enhanced formation of hydrogen bond networks within keratin. This study illustrates the capability of low-MW HA in hair damage repair, implying an enormous potential for other moisturizers to be used in hair care products.

Comparing Hair Tensile Testing in the Wet and the Dry State: Possibilities and Limitations for Detecting Changes of Hair Properties due to Chemical and Physical Treatments

OBJECTIVES

This investigation focusses, first, on the question to which extent wet and dry tensile tests on human hair may be considered as leading to independent results. Second, we try to assess the sensitivities of wet and dry testing to detect changes of mechanical properties. Specifically we were interested in separating changes, which were induced by a combination of a chemical (oxidation/bleach) and a physical treatment (heat).

METHODS

The basis for our study are data for the tensile properties (wet and dry) of a set of untreated and bleached hair tresses, which were submitted to the same schedule of thermal treatments. As characteristic tensile parameters, we chose modulus (E), break extension (BE) and break stress (BS). First, parameters were analysed across treatments for the correlations between wet and dry data. Second, we applied two-factor Analysis of Variance to assess the effects of the factors and their potential interaction.

RESULTS

Correlations for the dry vs wet data show only a weak relationship for E, while coefficients of determination (R² ) are quite high for BE and BS. Two-factor ANOVA enables to quantify the various contributions to the Total Sum-of-Squares for all three parameters. We show that, the parameters respond quite differently to the chemical and the thermal treatments as well as to testing conditions (wet or dry). It is of interest to note that, the interaction between the chemical and the physical treatment is generally quite weak. For the interpretation of the results, we use the concept of the humidity-dependent as well as strain-induced glass transition of the amorphous matrix.

CONCLUSIONS

The independence hypothesis for dry and wet tensile measurements only applies for modulus. Overall, we consider modulus (wet) as the best tensile measure of fibre damage when assessing chemical and/or physical treatments. Under ambient conditions (dry), break stress is shown to be a feasible alternative measure.

Biotechnology of functional proteins and peptides for hair cosmetic formulations

Cosmetics procedures and products combined with environmental insults and daily routines induce irreversible changes in hair. As result of damage, the hair loses some of its properties like strength, elasticity, and smoothness. Recent studies revealed the positive effects of protein-based cosmetics in providing protection to hair. Additionally, these cosmetic products have also shown a great ability to modify hair fibers. We review the effect of protein-based cosmetic formulations on hair properties like color, scent, strength, shape, and volume, highlighting the potential of keratin-based particles and keratin-fusion proteins. In the future, incorporating multifunctional proteins and peptides in the development of alternative hair formulations will result in advanced, sustainable, ecofriendly cosmetic products with a great impact on the cosmetic industry.