Use of vegetable oils in dermatology: an overview

Spectroscopic evaluation of sesame and mustard oils treated with Murchana method

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in traditional medicinal practices such as Ayurveda, which emphasizes the use of natural ingredients for various therapeutic purposes. Vegetable oils are an integral part of our diet and have several applications in the cosmetics and healthcare industries. These oils have also been prescribed in ancient Ayurveda texts to treat various health problems. Ayurveda prescribes a processing technique called 'Murchana' to improve the therapeutic nature of the oils. Spectroscopic techniques have been used for quality assessment in many fields. High sensitivity and a low detection rate make spectroscopy a formidable analytical technique. This study focusses on the spectroscopic analysis of sesame and mustard oils prepared using the ayurvedic processing method 'Murchana'. Spectroscopic analysis techniques including UV-Vis absorbance spectroscopy, fluorescence spectroscopy, and FTIR spectroscopy were employed to study the oils. Origin software was used to plot graphs of the spectra. The results indicated that the murchana process may reduce the components of the oil responsible for its oxidation, thereby increasing the shelf life of the oils. However, further investigations, including other spectroscopy and chromatography techniques, will prove beneficial in ascertaining the effects of the murchana process on vegetable oils. The study's findings also suggest that spectroscopic techniques can be used to supplement chemical techniques to investigate the characteristics of vegetable oils.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

Mercury Exposure from the Consumption of Dietary Supplements Containing Vegetable, Cod Liver, and Shark Liver Oils

Vegetable and fish oils constitute a significant part of all dietary supplements. Due to increasing environmental pollution, the raw materials used for their production may be contaminated with toxic substances, including metals. The aim of the present study was to determine the mercury (Hg) content in vegetable oils, shark liver oils, and cod liver oils. The tests conducted were to help determine the level of mercury contamination of the tested preparations and the related potential threat to human health. The amount of Hg in the tested dietary supplements was compared, and the amount of the metal consumed at various times of use was determined. A total of 36 preparations of dietary supplements available on the Polish market were used for the study. The method of atomic absorption spectrometry using the amalgamation technique was used for the determinations (AMA 254, Altec, Czech Republic). Among the sample of all of the tested preparations, the Hg concentration ranged from 0.023 to 0.427 µg/kg, with an average of 0.165 µg/kg. Differences in Hg content in the various tested preparations (shark liver oil, cod liver oil, and vegetable oils) were statistically significant. The average concentration of Hg in the vegetable oils (0.218 µg/kg) was more than twice that of the cod liver oils (0.106 µg/kg) and shark liver oils (0.065 µg/kg). In none of the tested preparations did the amount of Hg exceed the acceptable standard for dietary supplements (0.10 mg/kg). The analysis showed that the Hg content in vegetable oils, shark liver oils, and fish oils from the Polish market is at a low level, guaranteeing the safety of their use, and as such, they do not pose a threat to health.

Influence of Vegetable Oils on In Vitro Performance of Lutein-Loaded Lipid Carriers for Skin Delivery: Nanostructured Lipid Carriers vs. Nanoemulsions

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) were prepared from solid lipid (glyceryl monostearate, GMS) and vegetable oils, including palm oil (PO), rice bran oil (RBO) or virgin coconut oil (VCO), at different ratios (95:5, 90:10 and 80:20), while nanoemulsions (NE) were prepared with sole vegetable oils. After production, the particle size of the lutein-free NLC and NE was found to be between 100 and 150 nm and increased after loading with lutein. An increase in oil loading in NLC reduced the particle size and resulted in a less ordered lipid matrix and an increase in % entrapment efficiency. From the stability study, it was observed that the types of oils and oil content in the lipid matrix had an impact on the chemical stability of lutein. Regarding the release study, lutein-loaded NE showed higher release than lutein-loaded NLC. Both NLC and NE prepared from VCO exhibited higher release than those prepared from PO and RBO, respectively (p < 0.05). In contrast, among the formulations of NLC and NE, both lutein-loaded NLC and NE prepared from RBO showed the highest permeation through the human epidermis due to the skin enhancement effect of RBO. Based on all the results, the lipid nanocarriers composed of RBO could effectively enhance the chemical stability of lutein and promote drug penetration into the skin.

A Review Of Indigenous Therapies For Hair And Scalp Disorders In Nigeria

Hair and scalp disorders are common among individuals of African descent and constitute a significant proportion of dermatological conditions in them. Recently, there has been an increasing demand for natural products globally especially for hair grooming and treatment of hair disorders. These naturally occurring products are accessible and affordable, perceived to be less toxic and contribute to wellness in an individual. Reports of possible complications from commercial hair products has also led to an increase in the demand for natural products in Nigeria. Indigenous therapies for hair and scalp disorders in Nigeria include physical modalities, natural products and chemicals. These therapies include the use of herbs, bark of trees, fruits, and oils which can be administered orally, topically or deposited intralesionally either through incisions, scarification marks or demabrasion. There are currently very few studies supporting their efficacy and safety, hence the rationale for their use are mostly anecdotal and their mode of administration unregulated. Some of the topical products in use are clearly harmful such as engine oil and kerosene used for the treatment of folliculitis keloidalis nuchae and head lice respectively and should be discouraged as they are caustic, inflammable and systemic absorption could occur leading to complications. Randomized controlled trials are needed to verify the claims from use of these natural products and determine the appropriate dosage for use. This review discusses the various medicinal plants, chemical agents and physical modalities used for different hair and scalp disorders in Nigeria. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Skin occlusive performance: sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations

BACKGROUND

The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

AIM

This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential.

METHOD

The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 minutes, 2 and 6 hours of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent.

RESULTS

The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

CONCLUSION

Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 minutes post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

Formula Development of Red Palm (Elaeis guineensis) Fruit Extract Loaded with Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Containing Creams and Its Anti-Aging Efficacy in Healthy Volunteers

Palm fruits (Elaeis guineensis) comprise antioxidants that can be used as skin care agents. This study developed a cosmeceutical cream containing E. guineensis extract, loaded with solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), and assessed its efficacy on female volunteers. The E. guineensis extract exhibited a good antioxidant activity with high levels of vitamin E, β-carotene, and palmitic acid. Day and night creams containing E. guineensis fruit extract, loaded with SLNs, were formulated and exhibited acceptable physical characteristics and good stability. Subsequently, their clinical efficacy and safety were evaluated on female volunteers. Both creams were non-irritating and had good cutaneous compatibility. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity, melanin index, and skin texture were measured before and 30 min after the first application, as well as after 7, 14, and 30 days of daily application. A satisfactory survey was implemented using a questionnaire, and volunteer satisfaction scores were high for the product’s performance. Overall, the results showed that skin hydration, TEWL, cutaneous elasticity, and melanin index were improved, compared to the baseline data, after 30 days. Thus, the formulated facial day and night creams made the skin moist, reduced wrinkles, increased elasticity, and cleared the skin to the consumers’ satisfaction.

African oils in dermatology

Plant and seed oils have been used for centuries and possibly millennia in Nigeria and Africa for the maintenance of healthy skin and the traditional treatment of skin disorders. In recent times, some of these oils have regained popularity due to their availability and affordability coupled with concerns about the side effects of commercially processed skin care products. This is to assess the chemical properties, current knowledge, source of procurement, indications for topical use, benefits, and possible adverse effects of six plant oils and one animal fat commonly used in Nigeria. This is a literature review and interview with traditional healers and alternative health practitioners to document the traditional, medical, cosmetics, and other usage of oils for skin and scalp care in the African context. Literature review was done on the biochemical and pharmacological properties of each of the seven oils. Searches were made from PubMed, African Journal online, Medline, and Google scholar. Medical subject heading terms used in the search include shea butter, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, soy oil, Baobab oil, and python oil. Plant and seed oils used locally in Nigeria and other African countries for skin care and treatment have several benefits due to the constituents of the plant oils (free fatty acids, triglycerides, ceramides, phospholipids, vitamins and antioxidants) which have been shown to promote healthy skin barrier function, wound healing and have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. They are however not without adverse effects, which may be mainly due to processing and storage hygiene. Further studies are required on these oils in view of their potential in the development of novel skincare products and dermatological therapies.

Techno-biofunctionality of mangostin extract-loaded virgin coconut oil nanoemulsion and nanoemulgel

Techno-biofunctional characteristics of nanoemulsion and (nano)emulgel loaded with mangostin extracts were elucidated. Crude mangostins from mangosteen peels recovered by virgin coconut oil (VCO), mixed VCO and propylene glycol (PG), and pure PG were used. The extracts were loaded in the dispersed phase in the presence of mixed surfactants (Tween20/Span20) with a varying hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) from 10.2 to 15.1. Results showed that globular and uniformly distributed droplets of the nanoemulsion were observed. The small particle sizes (typically 18-62 nm) with the zeta potential of -39 to -54.5 mV were obtained when mixed emulsifiers with HLB values of 12.6 and 15.1 were employed. With HLB values of 12.6 and 15.1, nanoemulsions loaded with mangostin extracts prepared with mixed VCO-PG and pure PG-based extracts showed approximately a 2 to 3-fold lower droplet size diameter when compared with the VCO-based extract. For the stability test, all nanoemulsions were stable over three freeze-thaw cycles with some changes in pH, zeta potential, and droplet size. The DPPH● scavenging activity, H2O2 scavenging activity, reducing power and antibacterial activities (E. coli and S. aureus) of the nanoemulsions were greater than their corresponding bulk extracts. Nanoemulgels produced by embedding the nanoemulsions in a hydrogel matrix was homogeneous and creamy yellow-white in appearance. The nanoemulgels had a higher mangostin release (87-92%) than their normal emulgels (74-78%). Therefore, this study presented the feasibility of nanoemulsions and nanoemulgels loaded with mangostin extracts as a promising delivery system for bioactive polyphenol in food supplements, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics.

Olive oil in pharmacological and cosmetic traditions

Among the numerous natural substances used in medical remedies, oil certainly plays an important role and, over the centuries, there have been many functions and properties attributed to it. We present the processes that have seen it as protagonist in the pharmacological field and in the cosmetic field.

Fatty acid composition of vegetable oil blend and in vitro effects of pharmacotherapeutical skin care applications

Vegetable oils have been used for a plethora of health benefits by their incorporation in foods, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products, especially those intended for skin care. This study aimed to investigate the cutaneous benefits of a vegetable oil blend (VOB) formulation and its fatty acid composition. The anti-inflammatory activity was studied in macrophages of RAW 264.7 cells by investigating the release of nitric oxide (NO), superoxide anion generation (O₂^-), tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and interleukin 6 (IL-6). ABTS cation radical scavenging capacity assay, ferric reducing antioxidant potential (FRAP), 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and NO free radical scavenging assays were used to evaluate the antioxidant activity. VOB was tested for its ability to stimulate fibroblast proliferation and migration using the scratch assay, and antibacterial activity by the microdilution test. The fatty acid profile of a freshly prepared VOB formulation was determined by gas chromatography before and after accelerated stability testing. Chemical composition of VOB revealed the presence of oleic acid (C18:1n-9; 63.3%), linoleic acid (C18:2n-6; 4.7%), and linolenic acid (C18:3n-6; 5.1%) as major mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids. No changes in the organoleptic characteristics and fatty acid composition were observed after the accelerated stability test. VOB 100 µg/mL reduced the healing time by increasing the total number of cells in the wounded area by 43.0±5.1% compared to the negative control group. VOB also suppressed the pro-inflammatory TNF-α and IL-6 cytokines, and NO and O₂^- production in lipopolysaccharide-stimulated macrophage cells. In conclusion, the VOB formulation contributed to the improvement of current therapeutic strategies for cutaneous applications in skin care.

Anti-aging Effects of Select Botanicals: Scientific Evidence and Current Trends

As skin ages, there is a decline in physiologic function. These changes are induced by both intrinsic (chronologic) and extrinsic (predominately UV-induced) factors. Botanicals offer potential benefits to combat some of the signs of aging. Here, we review select botanicals and the scientific evidence behind their anti-aging claims. Botanicals may offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-protective, and other effects. A multitude of botanicals are listed as ingredients in popular cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, but only a select few are discussed here. These were chosen based on the availability of scientific data, personal interest of the authors, and perceived “popularity” of current cosmetic and cosmeceutical products. The botanicals reviewed here include argan oil, coconut oil, crocin, feverfew, green tea, marigold, pomegranate, and soy.

Adjuvant treatment of chronic plaque psoriasis in adults by a herbal combination: Open German trial and review of the literature

Psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory skin disease affecting up to 6% of the World population. Skin care is the basic approach to restore epidermal barrier function, provide symptomatic relief, and ensure remission-free periods. We performed an open trial using herbal complex Soratinex® (also known as Dr Michaels®) in adult patients with mild-to-moderate chronic plaque psoriasis without further improvement to previous treatments in the last 6 weeks. The products Cleansing Gel, Scalp & Body Ointment, and Skin Conditioner were applied twice daily for 8 weeks. All patients achieved a Psoriasis Area and Severity Index (PASI) 50 response, 94.4% achieved a PASI 75, 66.7% achieved PASI 90, and 22.2% achieved a PASI 100. In week 8, 94.4% of patients were satisfied or very satisfied with the treatment that was well tolerated. We performed a literature review on published trials in children and adults suffering from psoriasis. Herbal complex Soratinex® achieved a PASI 50 or more in about 50-90% of patients. It ensures prolonged relapse-free periods and improves the quality of life. Adverse events are mild and seen in a minority of patients only. In conclusion, herbal complex allows safe and effective self-treatment of patients with psoriasis and improves patient's autonomy.