A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen

Anti-wrinkle efficacy of standardized phenolic acids polymer extract (PAPE) from propolis: Implications for antiaging and skin health

BACKGROUND

The increasing quest for effective and safe antiaging skincare solutions has led to a surge in the exploration of natural compounds such as phenolic acids. Despite the proven efficacy of traditional antiaging ingredients like retinol, their associated side effects have necessitated the search for alternatives.

AIMS

This study aimed to assess the anti-wrinkle efficacy of a standardized phenolic acids polymer extract (PAPE) from propolis, employing both in vitro and clinical methodologies to explore its suitability as a novel antiaging skincare ingredient for sensitive and nonsensitive skin types.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The study comprised of evaluating PAPE effects on key skin health biomarkers in dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes. A double-blind, randomized clinical trial involving female participants aged 30-70 years assessed the wrinkle-reducing effectiveness of face creams formulated with two concentrations of PAPE (1.5% and 3%) over a 28-day period.

RESULTS

In vitro studies indicated that PAPE could modulate inflammation and tissue remodeling biomarkers. The clinical trial demonstrated that applying PAPE-enriched cream resulted in significant wrinkle reduction, with 25% and 34% improvements for the 1.5% and 3% PAPE formulations, respectively. Subjective feedback from participants further validated the antiaging efficacy and overall satisfaction with the product.

CONCLUSION

Incorporating PAPE offers a compelling antiaging solution, significantly reducing wrinkle depth with a favorable safety profile. The study substantiates PAPE's potential as an effective and safe alternative to conventional antiaging ingredients, aligning with the cosmetic industry's shift toward natural, evidence-based formulations.

Beneficial Effects of Multi-Micronutrient Supplementation with Collagen Peptides on Global Wrinkles, Skin Elasticity and Appearance in Healthy Female Subjects

INTRODUCTION

With ageing, collagen production slows down, leading to wrinkle appearance and loss of elasticity. Replenishing key structural molecules through oral supplementation is a promising strategy that complements the topical delivery of cosmetic products and creates a holistic skincare regimen. The present study assessed the effectiveness of a food supplement with collagen peptides, vitamins and minerals in improving the quality of the skin and general wellbeing of healthy women.

METHODS

This was an open-label study of 135 women aged between 45 and 65 years. A 3-month treatment phase followed a 4-week washout phase, with visits scheduled at baseline and after each month of treatment. Subjects received three tablets of Richelet Skin Renewal daily. The primary outcome was change from baseline to month 3 in global wrinkles score by expert grader analysis. Secondary outcomes included changes in skin elasticity and other skin attributes, product assessment via self-perception questionnaires and total antioxidant status.

RESULTS

A total of 116 subjects completed the study. The mean global wrinkles score indicated a statistically significant decrease from 5.9 at baseline to 5.0 at month 3 (p < 0.0001), with 83.6% of subjects showing an improvement; significant changes were reported at all intermediate visits. The increase in skin elasticity was also statistically significant (R2 score 0.74 at month 3; p < 0.0001). All subjects (100%) demonstrated significant improvements in skin texture, skin tone evenness, skin radiance and overall skin quality at the month 3 visit.

CONCLUSIONS

The study product achieved statistically significant, noticeable effects on global wrinkles, skin elasticity and a range of skin attributes after 3 months of use in healthy women. These results strengthen the evidence for supplementation of collagen peptides and other micronutrients as an effective component of anti-ageing skincare.

A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients

Background

Due to the periorbital region's high susceptibility to damage from external factors, along with its tendency to demonstrate early signs of aging, periorbital skin is a common target for antiaging therapy.

Objective

This review aims to evaluate the efficacy of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams, particularly focusing on their impact on periorbital skin concerns.

Methods

A comprehensive review of the literature on active ingredients in eye creams, including retinoids, vitamins C and E, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and niacinamide, was conducted. Clinical studies assessing the efficacy of these ingredients in addressing periorbital concerns were examined.

Results

Studies demonstrate the potential of these ingredients to improve various aspects of periorbital skin, including hydration, elasticity, collagen synthesis, and reduction of inflammatory mediators. Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and caffeine show promise in addressing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while peptides and hyaluronic acid aid in collagen production and hydration. Niacinamide and ceramides offer benefits in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the skin barrier function.

Limitations

The lack of clinical trials specifically targeting eye cream formulations and periorbital skin is a notable limitation. Furthermore, the variability in study designs, sample sizes, and concentrations of active ingredients across studies complicates direct comparisons.

Conclusion

The reviewed studies highlight the potential of active ingredients in eye creams to address various periorbital concerns. Further research, particularly large-scale clinical trials focusing on eye cream formulations and their efficacy on periorbital skin, is warranted to establish their significance and comparability with other dermatologic products.

Clinical and histologic findings after use of a novel combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream in the treatment of photo-aged skin

BACKGROUND

Neck skin is thinner and has a more delicate dermal layer than facial skin. The studied product was specifically formulated for the neck combining a hydrating delivery system with a trifunctional corrective technology composed of 0.2% pure retinol, 2.5% tripeptide concentrate, and 5.0% glaucine complex to help improvement in signs of aging.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate cosmetic and histologic changes 3 months after treatment using immunostains for Type I collagen, Type III collagen, and glycosaminoglycan (GAGS). In addition, overall clinical improvement in photoaged skin was measured by both Griffith's photonumeric photoaging scale, photographic improvement, and questionnaires.

METHODS

This study was an open-label, blinded clinical trial evaluating a combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream in the treatment of photo-aged skin. The study enrolled a total of 20 healthy male or female subjects, who applied the product for 3 months to their face and neck.

RESULTS

Clinical as well histologic changes were consistent with improvement in all 20 subjects.

CONCLUSION

Use of a combined retinol, tripeptide, and glaucine containing cream led to both clinical and histologic improvement of phototoaging.

Improvement of urban eye skin in Chinese female by supramolecular retinol plus acmella oleracea extract-containing product

BACKGROUND

Studies on the anti-wrinkle effects of retinol have been widely reported, but there are few reports on the infraorbital dark circles reducing effects.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the efficiency and tolerance of one novel formulation containing supramolecular retinol plus acmella oleracea extract in Chinese urban eye skin.

METHODS

Thirty-three women with dark circles and visible fine wrinkles around the eyes, aged 20-45 years, were enrolled and instructed to use the formula for 6 weeks. Instrumental measures and subject assessment were obtained at baseline and at 3-week intervals.

RESULTS

After 6 weeks, Mexameter MX18 results demonstrated a statistically significant 13.8% decrease in MI (melanin index) value, and Colorimeter CL400 results demonstrated a statistically significant 0.5% increase in L* (lightness) value, which proved the efficacy of reducing dark circles. Primos-Lite data showed that the wrinkles parameters of Ra, the wrinkle area %, and number of the wrinkles under the eyes and crow's feet revealed significant reduction to varying degrees. Cutometer results showed that R2 value increased significantly by 13.0%, indicating the benefits of firmer skin. In addition, subject assessment revealed that at the end of 6 weeks, the eye skin was noticeably improved.

CONCLUSIONS

By clinical evaluation and subject assessment, the novel formulation containing supramolecular retinol plus acmella oleracea extract can effectively diminish the collective signs of stressed urban eye skin for Chinese female in terms of dark circles, fine wrinkles, and sagging skin with good tolerance.

Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation

Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD+ family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD+ pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD+ pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.

Nanostructured lipid carriers enhances the safety profile of tretinoin: in vitro and healthy human volunteers' studies

Aim: To enhance the tretinoin (TRE) safety profile through the encapsulation in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC). Materials & methods: NLC-TRE was developed using a 2³ experimental factorial design, characterized (HPLC, dynamic light scattering, differential scanning calorimetry, x-ray diffraction analysis, transmission electron microscopy, cryo-transmission electron microscopy) and evaluated by in vitro studies and in healthy volunteers. Results: The NLC-TRE presented spherical structures, average particle size of 130 nm, zeta potential of 24 mV and encapsulation efficiency of 98%. The NLC-TRE protected TRE against oxidation (p < 0.0001) and promoted epidermal targeting (p < 0.0001) compared with the marketed product, both 0.05% TRE. The in vitro assay on reconstructed human epidermis and the measurement of transepidermal water loss in healthy volunteers demonstrated an enhanced safety profile in comparison to the marketed product (p < 0.0002). Conclusion: The NLC-TRE enhances the epidermal targeting and safety profile of TRE, representing a potential safer alternative for the topical treatment of skin disorders using TRE.

Enhanced retinoid response by a combination of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate with niacinamide and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models

OBJECTIVES

Retinoids have been used for decades as efficacious topical agents to treat photoaged skin. The purpose of our present research is to evaluate whether the activity of the vitamin A ester retinyl propionate (RP) can be enhanced by niacinamide (Nam) and a flavonoid containing Ceratonia siliqua (CS) fruit extract in retinoid responsive in vitro models.

METHODS

Retinyl propionate was tested alone and in combination with Nam and CS in an RARα reporter cell line for promoter activation and compared to trans-retinoic acid (tRA) activation. These treatments were also tested in keratinocytes for gene expression profiling by qPCR using a panel of 40 retinoid responsive genes.

RESULTS

tRA or RP elicited RARα reporter activation in a dose-dependent manner. The combination of 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam had a 56% and 95% signal increase compared to RP, respectively. The addition of 1% CS to 0.5 μM or 2 μM RP with 10 mM Nam elicited a further increase of 114% and 156%, respectively, over RP and Nam combinations. All retinoids elicited an increase in expression of 40 retinoid sensitive genes over control levels. Of the 40 genes, 27 were enhanced by either 0.1 μM RP or 0.5 μM RP with 10 mM Nam and 1% CS. Nam or CS had very modest activity in both models.

CONCLUSION

The combination of RP with Nam and CS showed a higher retinoid response than RP in two separate retinoid responsive in vitro models. We hypothesize Nam and CS enhances RP activity by modulating metabolism to tRA via increasing NAD⁺ pools and inhibiting reduction of retinal (RAL) back to retinol, respectively. The findings provide evidence that this combination may have enhanced efficacy for treating the appearance of photoaged skin.

The vitamin A ester retinyl propionate has a unique metabolic profile and higher retinoid-related bioactivity over retinol and retinyl palmitate in human skin models

Human skin is exposed daily to environmental stressors, which cause acute damage and inflammation. Over time, this leads to morphological and visual appearance changes associated with premature ageing. Topical vitamin A derivatives such as retinol (ROL), retinyl palmitate (RPalm) and retinyl propionate (RP) have been used to reverse these changes and improve the appearance of skin. This study investigated a stoichiometric comparison of these retinoids using in vitro and ex vivo skin models. Skin biopsies were treated topically to compare skin penetration and metabolism. Treated keratinocytes were evaluated for transcriptomics profiling and hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis and treated 3D epidermal skin equivalents were stained for epidermal thickness, Ki67 and filaggrin. A retinoic acid receptor-alpha (RARα) reporter cell line was used to compare retinoid activation levels. Results from ex vivo skin found that RP and ROL have higher penetration levels compared with RPalm. RP is metabolized primarily into ROL in the viable epidermis and dermis whereas ROL is esterified into RPalm and metabolized into the inactive retinoid 14-hydroxy-4,14-retro-retinol (14-HRR). RP treatment yielded higher RARα activation and HA synthesis levels than ROL whereas RPalm had a null effect. In keratinocytes, RP and ROL stimulated similar gene expression patterns and pathway theme profiles. In conclusion, RP and ROL show a similar response directionality whereas RPalm response was inconsistent. Additionally, RP has a consistently higher magnitude of response compared with ROL or RPalm.

Skin Recovery After Discontinuation of Long-Term Moisturizer Application: A Split-Face Comparison Pilot Study

Introduction

Facial moisturizers are commonly used by healthy women and increasingly men of all age groups. This study aimed to investigate the effects of moisturizer discontinuation and the subsequent evolution of symptoms.

Methods

Two prospective observational split-face comparison pilot studies were performed in Switzerland and enrolled (I) 20 healthy women aged 17–25 years in winter and (II) 36 female subjects 15–20 and 40–55 years of age in summer. Moisturizers were stopped on the investigational half of the face. On the control side, the usual skin care regimen was continued. Daily subjective (I/II) and objective (I) skin assessments for the occurrence of typical symptoms of dry skin (dryness, itching, scales, redness, wrinkles) were collected.

Results

In the winter study (cohort I) in both the subjective and objective assessment, all skin changes increased significantly within 1 day after discontinuation. On day 7, dryness (p < 0.001), itching (p < 0.025), redness (p < 0.001) and scales (p < 0.049) were significantly different in the subjective assessment and redness (p < 0.004) and scales (p < 0.001) in the objective assessment. Skin dryness reverted to baseline levels after 6 days in the objective assessment and 10 days in the subjective assessment. The control side’s condition was reached after 6 days. In the summer study (II), only among the 15–20-year-olds was dryness significantly higher on the intervention side from day 1 (p < 0.028) to day 14 (p < 0.009). Their recovery time was 11 days until dryness intensity scores comparable to baseline were reached, and 21 days until the control side’s values were matched. Over a 7-day period, the overall mean dryness score was significantly different between the interventional and control sides for both young and old participants.

Conclusions

Both healthy young and aging female subjects react with typical symptoms of temporary dryness to a sudden stop of a previous long-term moisturizer treatment but regain normal levels quickly without continuation of moisturizers. The skin recovery time for skin dehydration is 1–3 weeks in young female subjects with varying intensities depending on the season.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (10.1007/s13555-020-00453-0) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Development of Polymeric Micelles of Oleanolic Acid and Evaluation of Their Clinical Efficacy

Oleanolic acid has been used only as a subsidiary agent in cosmetic products. The aim of the study is to show the effect of oleanolic acid as an active ingredient for the alleviation of wrinkles in humans and to develop a polymeric micelle formulation that enables poorly soluble oleanolic acid to be used as a main ingredient in cosmetic products for reducing wrinkles. The solubility of oleanolic acid was evaluated in solubilizers, surfactants, and polymers. The particle sizes and shapes of polymeric micelles containing oleanolic acid were evaluated by electrophoretic light scattering spectrophotometer and scanning electron cryomicroscopy. Encapsulation efficiency and skin permeation were measured by HPLC. Stability of the polymeric micelles stored at 40 °C for 3 months was evaluated by visual observation, particle size measurement, and oleanolic acid content measurement. Polymeric micelles in final product ampoule form were applied around the eyes of 23 female subjects for 8 weeks. Five skin parameters were evaluated by optical profilometry every 4 weeks for 8 weeks. In addition, professionals made visual observations of the skin and a human skin irritation study was conducted. Polymeric micelles of oleanolic acid with a particle size of less than 100 nm were prepared using Capryol 90® and poloxamer. The skin permeation rate of the oleanolic acid in the polymeric micelles was higher than that in the other solutions made of oleanolic acid dispersed in 2 different surfactants. No significant changes in particle size, color, or oleanolic acid content were observed, and the polymeric micelles stored at 40 °C for 3 months did not undergo phase separation. After 8 weeks of application, skin irritation had not developed and all five parameters evaluated by optical profilometry as well as the visual evaluation scores were significantly improved. This study showed that the polymeric micelles of oleanolic acid prepared in this study were stable and effective at alleviating wrinkles in humans as the principal active ingredient. Based on these findings, it is expected that polymeric micelles of oleanolic acid can be widely used in cosmetic applications.

Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine

BACKGROUND

The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product.

AIMS

In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one.

METHODS

Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream).

RESULTS

Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles.

CONCLUSION

These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics

Skin, being one of the vital organs and a protective barrier needs to be pampered and taken care of from early childhood. It is the most visible and the widest exposed organ and by far reflects the general health condition and the aging process in humans. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to this complex biological process of skin aging. In recent times, skin health and its beauty is perceived as an indicator of one’s health which has resulted in an increasing demand for anti-aging products. Exposure to UV radiation is considered to be one of the factors responsible for aging termed as photoaging. In this review, we have discussed the various factors which may accelerate the process of skin aging. Various approaches and strategies to delay the process of skin aging have been emphasized upon. The patents filed in the area of anti-aging and sunscreen products have also been reviewed to gain an insight into the new formulations which have been developed as an anti-aging product. There has been a tremendous rise in the cosmetic and cosmeceuticals market with products having a dual activity of anti-aging and sun protection. Research is constantly on the rise to ensure the safety of these products. Alternatives to the current topical application of sunscreen are being considered to overcome the drawback of reapplication of the sunscreen often which can be a boon to the cosmeceutical market.

Retinoids: Literature Review and Suggested Algorithm for Use Prior to Facial Resurfacing Procedures

Vitamin A-containing products have been used topically since the early 1940s to treat various skin conditions. To date, there are four generations of retinoids, a family of Vitamin A-containing compounds. Tretinoin, all-trans-retinoic acid, is a first-generation, naturally occurring, retinoid. It is available, commercially, as a gel or cream. The authors conducted a complete review of all studies, clinical- and basic science-based studies, within the literature involving tretinoin treatment recommendations for impending facial procedures. The literature currently lacks definitive recommendations for the use of tretinoin-containing products prior to undergoing facial procedures. Tretinoin pretreatment regimens vary greatly in terms of the strength of retinoid used, the length of the pre-procedure treatment, and the ideal time to stop treatment before the procedure. Based on the current literature and personal experience, the authors set forth a set of guidelines for the use of tretinoin prior to various facial procedures.

Nanostructured lipid carriers for the topical delivery of tretinoin

Cosmetic skin care products currently in the market demonstrate an increasing trend toward antiaging products. Selection of the right formulation approach is the key to successful consumer acceptance. Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) for dermal application can render added benefits to the formulation. Tretinoin a derivative of vitamin A, is a retinoid with anti-aging and anti-acne potential. The present study was aimed at formulating NLCs of tretinoin for reducing the skin irritation potential, increasing the drug loading capacity and prolonging the duration of action. The NLCs were optimized using the response surface methodology based on the particle size. Preliminary study, suggested the use of stearic acid, oleic acid, Tween 80 and Span 60 as solid lipid, liquid lipid and surfactants respectively formed a stable dispersion. NLCs of tretinoin were prepared by hot melt microemulsion and hot melt probe sonication methods. The properties of the optimized NLCs such as morphology, size, Zeta potential, stability and in vitro drug release were investigated. Tretinoin loaded NLCs in carbopol gel showed a sustained release pattern with isopropyl alcohol as the receptor fluid compared to the marketed gel using Franz diffusion cells. Eight prepared gel formulations tested were found to follow the Higuchi model of drug release. Stability studies indicated that the formulations stored at refrigeration and room temperature showed no noticeable differences in the drug content and release profiles in vitro, after a period of 4 weeks. In vivo skin irritation test on male Wister rats indicated no irritation or erythema after application of the NLCs loaded gel repeated for a period of 7 days compared to the application of marketed tretinoin gel which showed irritation and slight erythema within 3 days. The results showed that the irritation potential of tretinoin was reduced, the drug loading was increased and the drug release was prolonged by the incorporation into the NLCs.

Skin Care

Aging skin is among the most common patient concerns in a facial plastic surgery practice. Ultraviolet (UV)-induced damage expedites the pace of intrinsic aging, resulting in many of the visible signs of aging, such as rough skin texture, pigmentation irregularities, fine and deep wrinkling, and inelasticity. Primary prevention of UV and environmental damage with proper skin care and the use of sunscreen are critical. There is great interest in topically applied products to reverse or delay the visible signs of photoaging. We discuss the most common topically applied agents for photoaging, reviewing their mechanisms and supporting evidence.

The science of dermocosmetics and its role in dermatology

Our increased knowledge of normal skin physiology has ushered in a subtle revolution in cosmetic science. Originally designed as preparations to enhance personal appearance by direct application on to the skin, cosmetics have now taken on a new role in dermatology, through the support of the management of many skin disorders. This evolving role of cosmetics in skin care is primarily due to scientific and technological advancements that have changed our understanding of normal skin physiology and how cosmetics modify its appearance both physically and biologically. The vast array of techniques currently available to investigate skin responsivity to multiple stimuli has brought about a new era in cosmetic and dermocosmetic development based on a robust understanding of skin physiology and its varied responses to commonly encountered environmental insults. Most cosmetic research is undertaken on reconstructed skin models crucial in dermatological research, given the strict ban imposed by the European Union on animal testing. In addition, the design and conduct of trials evaluating cosmetics now follow rules comparable to those used in the development and evaluation of pharmaceutical products. Cosmetic research should now aim to ensure all trials adhere to strictly reproducible and scientifically sound methodologies. The objective of this review is to provide an overview of the multidisciplinary scientific approach used in formulating dermocosmetics, and to examine the major advances in dermocosmetic development and assessment, the safety and regulatory guidelines governing their production and the exciting future outlook for these dermocosmetic processes following good practice rules.

Photodamage: treatments and topicals for facial skin

This article provides an overview of current therapies for photodamaged facial skin and their efficacy, with particular focus on studies that use the objective, quantitative evaluation methods discussed in the previous article. The role of topically applied agents including prescription drugs and cosmetics is discussed. From this information, a schema for the relative effectiveness of therapeutic modalities in reducing perceived age is presented. This information assists the facial plastic surgeon in evaluating patient expectations and selecting the most effective program.

Risk assessment of excess drug and sunscreen absorption via skin with ablative fractional laser resurfacing : optimization of the applied dose for postoperative care

The ablative fractional laser is a new modality used for surgical resurfacing. It is expected that laser treatment can generally deliver drugs into and across the skin, which is toxicologically relevant. The aim of this study was to establish skin absorption characteristics of antibiotics, sunscreens, and macromolecules via laser-treated skin and during postoperative periods. Nude mice were employed as the animal model. The skin received a single irradiation of a fractional CO2 laser, using fluences of 4-10 mJ with spot densities of 100-400 spots/cm(2). In vitro skin permeation using Franz cells was performed. Levels of skin water loss and erythema were evaluated, and histological examinations with staining by hematoxylin and eosin, cyclooxygenase-2, and claudin-1 were carried out. Significant signs of erythema, edema, and scaling of the skin treated with the fractional laser were evident. Inflammatory infiltration and a reduction in tight junctions were also observed. Laser treatment at 6 mJ increased tetracycline and tretinoin fluxes by 70- and 9-fold, respectively. A higher fluence resulted in a greater tetracycline flux, but lower skin deposition. On the other hand, tretinoin skin deposition increased following an increase in the laser fluence. The fractional laser exhibited a negligible effect on modulating oxybenzone absorption. Dextrans with molecular weights of 4 and 10 kDa showed increased fluxes from 0.05 to 11.05 and 38.54 μg/cm(2)/h, respectively. The optimized drug dose for skin treated with the fractional laser was 1/70-1/60 of the regular dose. The skin histology and drug absorption had recovered to a normal status within 2-3 days. Our findings provide the first report on risk assessment of excessive skin absorption after fractional laser resurfacing.

Four methods of evaluation of facial erythema and pigment treated with intense pulsed light or cream

AIM

To evaluate methods of evaluation of patients with mild to moderate facial pigmentation or erythema and compare clinical and photographic grading with instrumental evaluation.

METHODS

Of the 24 female subjects treated, 12 were treated with intense pulsed light (IPL) and 12 were treated with daily cream program. Evaluations before and at 16 weeks consisted of: 1. Clinical examination and severity grading by a dermatologist without knowledge of treatment given. 2. Standardised photographs were evaluated by two other dermatologists without knowledge of treatment given. 3. A computer controlled photographic skin analysis systems was used to grade severity of erythema and pigmentation. 4. Subjects were asked to assess their response at the end of a 16-week period, that is, subject self-evaluation.

RESULTS

On clinical evaluation of IPL subjects, 12 showed improvement. Of the cream subjects, 11 showed improvement. There was correlation between dermatologist facial examination and the instrumental method. Overall the different assessments showed a slightly greater trend for improvement with IPL treatments for erythema and pigmentation, but no statistical differences were found between the treatments using Student's t-test and Anova analysis of comparative improvement.

Randomized controlled study of a cosmetic treatment for mild acne

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic products are not tested with the same rigour as medical treatments, but recent high-quality studies have shown significant reductions in changes of skin ageing with use of cosmetic antiageing products.

AIM

To test whether a cosmetic 'anti-spot' two-step treatment containing a complex of seaweed-derived oligosaccharide and zinc would produce a significant improvement in mild acne.

METHODS

A double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of this treatment was performed for 8 weeks on 60 age-matched participants with mild acne. They were divided into two groups: 30 participants were treated with vehicle control and 30 with the active treatment containing a seaweed-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone.

RESULTS

After 8 weeks, both groups had a reduction in comedones, papules and pustules, and this was significantly greater in the active than control group at 2, 4 and 8 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

Cosmetic products may offer some benefit for mild acne and still meet the requirements of the European Cosmetic Directive. In particular, the seaweed-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone used in this study produced a significant reduction in acne vs. a control treatment. Cosmetic companies should conduct blinded controlled trials of their product's efficacy and publish the results.

Anti-aging efficacy of topical formulations containing niosomes entrapped with rice bran bioactive compounds

CONTEXT

Rice [Oryza sativa L. (Gramineae)] bran is a rich source of phytochemicals. Its oil also contains several bioactive components that exhibit antioxidative properties such as ferulic acid (F), γ-oryzanol (O), and phytic acid (P) which can be a new source of cosmetic raw materials.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the anti-aging effects of the gel and cream containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The semi-purified rice bran extracts containing F, O, and P which indicated the growth stimulation of human fibroblasts and the inhibition of MMP-2 by sulforhodamine B and gelatin zymography, respectively, were entrapped in niosomes by supercritical carbon dioxide fluid (scCO(2)) and incorporated in gel and cream formulations. The skin hydration, elasticity, thickness and roughness, and pigmentation in human volunteers after treated with these gel and creams were investigated by corneometer, cutometer, visiometer, and mexameter, respectively.

RESULTS

Gel and cream containing the semi-purified rice bran extracts entrapped in niosomes gave no sign of erythema and edema detected within 72 h on the shaved rabbit skin by the closed patch test investigated by mexameter and visual observation, respectively. These formulations also demonstrated higher hydration enhancement and improvement of skin lightening, thickness, roughness, and elasticity on the skin of 30 human volunteers within the 28-day treatment not more than 9, 27, 7, 3, and 3 times, respectively.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS

The formulations containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds gave superior clinical anti-aging activity which can be applied as a novel skin product.

Raman spectroscopic analysis of the carotenoid concentration in egg yolks depending on the feeding and housing conditions of the laying hens

Resonance Raman spectroscopic measurements are suited to analyze the concentration of carotenoid antioxidants in biological samples. Previously, it has been shown that the carotenoid concentration of nutritional egg yolks has a direct influence on the carotenoid content of human skin in vivo. In the present study, resonance Raman spectroscopy was used to analyze the carotenoid concentration in the yolks of hen eggs, which were housed in battery cages or alternatively on free-range grassland. The egg yolks of hens, which had access to grassland, contained approximately double the amount of carotenoid concentration than the egg yolks of hens housed in battery cages (p < 0.001). The kinetics of the carotenoid concentration in the egg yolks, depending on fodder, housing and weather conditions, were investigated.

Topically applied KTTKS: a review

Skin ageing is an irreversible process that is caused by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The possibility of arresting or delaying skin ageing represents a large research area and has a big potential in the cosmetics sector. Recently, the polypeptide lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (KTTKS) has attracted a lot of attention and it features in numerous up-market cosmetic products where it has become erroneously associated with the term 'pentapeptide'. In this study, we review in detail KTTKS and its major derivatives, in terms of the limited information in the literature and an appraisal of its physicochemical and theoretical skin permeation properties. There appears to be a sound in vitro basis for its action on fibroblasts due to its stimulatory effect on extracellular matrix synthesis, where the stimulatory effect of KTTKS is specific to collagen types I and III and fibronectin expression. However, there is a surprising absence of in vitro skin penetration data in the literature, and there are relatively few clinical studies using these materials.

Topical retinoids in the management of photodamaged skin: from theory to evidence-based practical approach

Skin, being exposed directly to the environment, represents a unique model for demonstrating the synergistic effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the ageing process. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is the major factor among exogenous stressors responsible for premature skin ageing. The problem of skin ageing has captured public attention and has an important social impact. Different therapeutic approaches have been developed to treat cutaneous ageing and to diminish or prevent the negative effects of UVR. Topical retinoids represent an important and powerful class of molecules in the dermatologist's hands for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Since their introduction more than 20 years ago, topical retinoids have shown beneficial efficacy and good safety profiles in the management of photodamaged skin, and as therapeutic anti-ageing agents. This review provides a brief retrospective of the development of topical retinoids in the treatment of photodamaged skin, elucidates their mechanism of action, delineates their use and addresses clinical, pharmaceutical and regulatory issues in connection with their intended use.

Update on cosmeceuticals

As youth and perception of beauty are considered to be of great importance, an increasing number of new cosmeceuticals have been developed in recent years. This article will briefly present the problems of distinguishing cosmetics, cosmeceuticals or drugs and describe important new developments in raw materials, carrier systems and ingredients from the dermatological point of view. Especially active ingredients against skin-aging, here in particular antioxidants and cell regulators, are reviewed. Important parameters for the quality of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are evidence-based in-vivo and in-vitro efficacy as well as scientifically proven wanted and unwanted effects.