Cannabis Roots: Therapeutic, Biotechnological and Environmental Aspects

Since the legalization of recreational cannabis in Canada in 2018, the number of licenses for this crop has increased significantly, resulting in an increase in waste generated. Nevertheless, cannabis roots were once used for their therapeutic properties, indicating that they could be valued today rather than dismissed. This review will focus on both traditional therapeutic aspects and potential use of roots in modern medicine while detailing the main studies on active phytomolecules found in cannabis roots. The environmental impact of cannabis cultivation and current knowledge of the root-associated microbiome are also presented as well as their potential applications in biotechnology and phytoremediation. Thus, several high added-value applications of cannabis roots resulting from scientific advances in recent years can be considered to remove them from discarded residues.

Simple phenylpropanoids: recent advances in biological activities, biosynthetic pathways, and microbial production

Covering: 2000 to 2023Simple phenylpropanoids are a large group of natural products with primary C6-C3 skeletons. They are not only important biomolecules for plant growth but also crucial chemicals for high-value industries, including fragrances, nutraceuticals, biomaterials, and pharmaceuticals. However, with the growing global demand for simple phenylpropanoids, direct plant extraction or chemical synthesis often struggles to meet current needs in terms of yield, titre, cost, and environmental impact. Benefiting from the rapid development of metabolic engineering and synthetic biology, microbial production of natural products from inexpensive and renewable sources provides a feasible solution for sustainable supply. This review outlines the biological activities of simple phenylpropanoids, compares their biosynthetic pathways in different species (plants, bacteria, and fungi), and summarises key research on the microbial production of simple phenylpropanoids over the last decade, with a focus on engineering strategies that seem to hold most potential for further development. Moreover, constructive solutions to the current challenges and future perspectives for industrial production of phenylpropanoids are presented.

In vitro evaluation of p-coumaric acid and naringin combination in human epidermoid carcinoma cell line (A431)

Cancer is considered most detrimental due to high mortality worldwide. Among them, skin cancers play a major part by affecting one in three cancer patients globally. About 2-3 million cancer cases were reported to be non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers, respectively. Although chemotherapeutic drugs act on cancer cells but results in long-lasting morbidities which affects one's quality of life and also works only in the initial stage of the cancer. Hence, an idea of traditional medicine to cure the disease efficiently with less side effects was pursued by the researchers. We have assessed the combination effect of p-coumaric acid and naringin in exerting anticancer activity using A431 (epidermoid carcinoma) cells. The MTT analysis of the combination on A431 cells showed the least IC50 concentration of 41 µg/ml which is effective than the standard drug imiquimod with IC50 concentration of 52 µg/ml. Further, flow cytometric analysis was carried out to identify the molecular mechanism behind the anticancer effects of the combination. The results revealed that the combination arrested the A431 cell cycle at S phase, induced apoptosis as indicated by more early and late apoptotic cells when compared with the control, and further altered reactive oxygen species (ROS) and mitochondrial membrane potential in A431 cells. Hence, the results suggest the potential anticancer effects of p-coumaric acid and naringin combination against the skin cancer (A431) cell line. The observed effects may be additive or synergistic effects in inducing ROS generation and apoptosis, and reducing the viability of A431 cells.

Identification of p-Coumaric Acid and Ethyl p-Coumarate as the Main Phenolic Components of Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) Roots

Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) contains a variety of secondary metabolites, including cannabinoids, such as psychoactive (-)-trans-Δ⁹-tetrahydrocannabinol. The present study was conducted to identify the major phenolic components contained in hemp root, which has been relatively under-researched compared to other parts of hemp. The aqueous ethanol extract of hemp roots was fractionated into methylene chloride (MC), ethyl acetate (EA), and water (WT) fractions, and high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-DAD) analysis was performed. The main ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing phenolic compound contained in the EA fraction was identified as p-coumaric acid by comparing the retention time and UV absorption spectrum with a standard. Silica gel column chromatography was performed to isolate a hydrophobic derivative of p-coumaric acid contained in the MC fraction. Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) analysis identified the isolated compound as ethyl p-coumarate. For comparative purposes, ethyl p-coumarate was also chemically synthesized by the esterification reaction of p-coumaric acid. The content of p-coumaric acid and ethyl p-coumarate in the total extract of hemp root was estimated to be 2.61 mg g-1 and 6.47 mg g-1, respectively, by HPLC-DAD analysis. These values correspond to 84 mg Kg-1 dry root and 216 mg Kg-1 dry root, respectively. In conclusion, this study identified p-coumaric acid and ethyl p-coumarate as the main phenolic compounds contained in the hemp roots.

New Approaches and advancement in drug development from phenolic p-coumaric acid

P-coumaric acid occurs as a common dietary polyphenol distributed in fruits, vegetables, and cereals in associated and free form. The toxicity profile of the drug is very low and it exhibits many pharmacological actions (antihypertensive, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, antimicrobial activity, antidiabetic, anticancer, and antioxidant effect). P-coumaric acid also acts as a free radical scavenger and inhibits various enzymes which generate free radicals. It is also used as the raw material for the preparation of preservatives, vanillin, sports foods, skin defense agents, and as a cross-linker for the formation of edible films and food gels. The current study is based upon biological effectiveness, molecular docking, SAR, sources of p-coumaric acid, and related derivatives.

Probiotic microbes: Are their anti-melanogenicity and longevity promoting activities closely linked through the major "pathogenic" kinase PAK1?

PAK1-deficient mutant of C. elegans lives 60% longer than the wild-type. Interestingly, PAK1-deficient mutant of melanocytes produces less melanin (only a half compared with the wild-type) in the presence of either serum (PDGF) or α-MSH (alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone). These observations indicate that the major "pathogenic" kinase PAK1 is responsible for both shortening the healthy lifespan, and PDGF/α-MSH-dependent melanogenesis. For screening of PAK1-blocking probiotic bacteria or their products, their anti-melanogenic as well as longevity promoting properties were examined. Recently it was found that C. elegans fed with Lactobacillus rhamnosus in Xinjiang cheese lives 40% longer than the worm fed with the standard E. coli. Interestingly, a Chinese traditional medicine called "ChiBai" fermented with the Lactobacillus rhamnosus also inhibited the α-MSH-induced melanogenesis, and this bacteria itself produces butyric acid that blocks the oncogenic HDAC (histone deacetylase)-PAK1 signaling pathway. These findings strongly suggest, if not proven, that anti-melanogenic activity of Lactobacillus and many other probiotic bacteria might serve as a reliable indicator for their longevity promoting activity. In this context, a popular Japanese Lactobacillus-fermented milk drink called "Calpis", developed a century ago, and recently proven to inhibit the melanogenesis by suppressing the PAK1-dependent tyrosinase gene expression, may potentially prolong our healthy lifespan.

Enhanced permeability and photoprotective potential of optimized p-coumaric acid-phospholipid complex loaded gel against UVA mediated oxidative stress

Photo-oxidative skin damage is mainly caused by the UV-A radiation of the sun. Synthetic sunscreens used to counter this acts mostly on the superficial skin layer and possess serious side effects. P-coumaric acid (PCA) is a UV-A protective plant phenolic having quick diffusion and distribution in superficial skin layers limiting its application as herbal sunscreen. The present study was designed to formulate an optimized phospholipid complex of PCA (PCAPC) through response surface methodology to enhance its skin permeation to deeper skin layers providing protection against photo-oxidative stress. PCAPC was characterized by FT-IR, DTA, PXRD, TEM, zeta potential etc. PCAPC was then incorporated into a gel formulation (PCAPC-GE) to facilitate its transdermal delivery. Physicochemical properties of the gel were assessed by pH, homogeneity, rheology, spreadability etc. In-vitro SPF and UVA-PF of the gel was evaluated and compared with conventional gel (PCA-GE). Ex-vivo skin permeation flux, permeability coefficient, skin deposition and dermatokinetic analysis were carried out to measure the rate and level of skin permeation. This was accompanied by in-vivo evaluation of PCAPC-GE and PCA-GE in the experimental rat model by measuring the various oxidative stress markers such as superoxide dismutase, catalase etc. PCAPC-GE provided high SPF and UVA-PF value compared to PCA-GE. The physicochemical parameters were suitable for transdermal application. PCAPC-GE enhanced the permeation rate of PCA by almost 6 fold compared to PCA-GE. Besides, a significant reduction of UV-A induced oxidative stress biomarkers were observed for PCAPC-GE. Thus, the PCAPC-GE may be an effective alternative of synthetic sunscreens due to its enhanced permeation and protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress.

Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Derivatives Formulations for Skin Damages and Disorders: A Review

Alterations of skin homeostasis are widely diffused in our everyday life both due to accidental injuries, such as wounds and burns, and physiological conditions, such as late-stage diabetes, dermatitis, or psoriasis. These events are locally characterized by an intense inflammatory response, a high generation of harmful free radicals, or an impairment in the immune response regulation, which can profoundly change the skin tissue' repair process, vulnerability, and functionality. Moreover, diabetes diffusion, antibiotic resistance, and abuse of aggressive soaps and disinfectants following the COVID-19 emergency could be causes for the future spreading of skin disorders. In the last years, hydroxycinnamic acids and derivatives have been investigated and applied in several research fields for their anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-bacterial activities. First, in this study, we give an overview of these natural molecules' current source and applications. Afterwards, we review their potential role as valid alternatives to the current therapies, supporting the management and rebalancing of skin disorders and diseases at different levels. Also, we will introduce the recent advances in the design of biomaterials loaded with these phenolic compounds, specifically suitable for skin disorders treatments. Lastly, we will suggest future perspectives for introducing hydroxycinnamic acids and derivatives in treating skin disorders.

Lightening Effect of Skin Lightening Cream Containing Piper betle L. Extract in Human Volunteers

Hyperpigmentation affects people globally with negative psychological impacts. Piper betle L. leaf (PBL) extract has many benefits including skin lightening which may reduce hyperpigmentation. The objective of this study was to develop an effective skin-lightening cream containing PBL with ideal characteristics. A formulation of base cream and PBL cream was prepared and characterized by centrifugation, particle size and zeta potential analysis, rheological profile studies and physical properties’ observation. In vivo studies on 30 human subjects tested the effects of base and PBL cream on skin-lightening, hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and elasticity through weekly tests 4 weeks in duration. Base and PBL creams had a non-Newtonian property with acceptable color, odor, texture, zeta potential, particle size and showed no phase separation. The in vivo study indicated a significant reduction in melanin content and an improvement in skin tone for PBL cream but not in base cream. TEWL and elasticity also showed significant reduction for both formulations, indicating a healthier skin barrier and supple skin with consistent use, although hydration fluctuated with no significant changes. The developed PBL cream showed significant results in the reduction in melanin content and improving skin tone, which shows the formulation can confer skin-lightening effect.

Tyramine-derived hydroxycinnamic acid amides in plant foods: sources, synthesis, health effects and potential applications in food industry

Tyramine-derived hydroxycinnamic acid amines (HCAAT) are naturally occurring group of secondary metabolites present in various plant genera, such as Allium, Cannabis, Lycium, Polyganotum and Solanum. It belongs to the neutral, water-insoluble compounds and plays a role in plant growth, development and defence mechanism. The past two decades have seen a shift in the study of HCAAT from its role in plants to its potent biological activities. This review highlights the sources, roles in plants, biosynthetic pathways, metabolic engineering and chemical synthesis of HCAAT. The biological properties of HCAAT remain the focus in this paper, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, anti-diabetic, anti-melanogenesis and neuroprotective properties. The effects of food processing and technology on HCAAT are also discussed. Given the current research gap, this review proposes future directions on the study of HCAAT, as well as its potential applications in food and pharmaceutical industry.

Up- or Downregulation of Melanin Synthesis Using Amino Acids, Peptides, and Their Analogs

Harmonious synthesis and distribution of melanin in the skin contribute to the expression of beauty and the maintenance of health. When skin pigmentary disorders occur because of internal or external factors or, when there is a need to artificially increase or reduce the pigmentation level of the skin for aesthetic or therapeutic purposes, various pharmacological therapies are applied but the results are not always satisfactory. Studies have been conducted to improve the efficacy and safety of these treatment strategies. In this review, we present the latest studies regarding peptides and related compounds that may be useful in artificially increasing or reducing skin melanin levels. Certain analogs of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH) and oligopeptides with the sequences derived from the hormone were shown to promote melanin synthesis in cells and in vivo models. Various amino acids, peptides, their analogs, and their hybrid compounds with other chemical moieties were shown to inhibit tyrosinase (TYR) catalytic activity or downregulate TYR gene expression. Certain peptides were shown to inhibit melanosome biogenesis or induce autophagy, leading to decreased pigmentation. In vivo and clinical evidence are available for some compounds, including [Nle⁴-_D-Phe⁷]-α-MSH, glutathione disulfide, and glycinamide hydrochloride. For many other compounds, additional studies are required to verify their efficacy and safety in vivo and in clinical trials. The accumulating information regarding pro- and antimelanogenic activity of peptides and related compounds will lead to the development of novel drugs for the treatment of skin pigmentary disorders.

Emerging Strategies to Protect the Skin from Ultraviolet Rays Using Plant-Derived Materials

Sunlight contains a significant amount of ultraviolet (UV) ray, which leads to various effects on homeostasis in the body. Defense strategies to protect from UV rays have been extensively studied, as sunburn, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis are caused by excessive UV exposure. The primary lines of defense against UV damage are melanin and trans-urocanic acid, which are distributed in the stratum corneum. UV rays that pass beyond these lines of defense can lead to oxidative damage. However, cells detect changes due to UV rays as early as possible and initiate cell signaling processes to prevent the occurrence of damage and repair the already occurred damage. Cosmetic and dermatology experts recommend using a sunscreen product to prevent UV-induced damage. A variety of strategies using antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents have also been developed to complement the skin's defenses against UV rays. Researchers have examined the use of plant-derived materials to alleviate the occurrence of skin aging, diseases, and cancer caused by UV rays. Furthermore, studies are also underway to determine how to promote melanin production to protect from UV-induced skin damage. This review provides discussion of the damage that occurs in the skin due to UV light and describes potential defense strategies using plant-derived materials. This review aims to assist researchers in understanding the current research in this area and to potentially plan future studies.

Synthesis and Biological Evaluation of the Anti-Melanogenesis Effect of Coumaric and Caffeic Acid-Conjugated Peptides in Human Melanocytes

Excessive pigmentation and reduced elasticity are the major skin problems that dermatologists and cosmetologists address. Compounds that inhibit melanin production might contribute to improving skin problems. In this study, we investigated whether coumaric acid- and caffeic acid-conjugated peptides might affect alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced melanin production, tyrosinase activity, and melanin synthesis-related gene expression in SK-MEL-2 human melanoma cells. Coumaric acid and caffeic acid showed no significant cytotoxicity, and they inhibited melanin production. In addition, coumaric acid- and caffeic acid-conjugated peptides suppressed tyrosinase activity more than arbutin, a known tyrosinase inhibitor. Quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) results also showed that both peptides inhibited the expression of melanin synthesis-related genes, TYR, TYRP1, TYRP2, and MITF. In particular, among the nine conjugated peptides tested, caffeic acid linked to a Gly-Gly-Gly linker and conjugated to the tripeptide, ARP, showed the greatest inhibition of gene expression in the qRT-PCR analysis. These results suggested that the inhibition of melanin exerted by coumaric acid- and caffeic acid-conjugated peptides might provide important information for the development of pigmentation-related skin diseases and cosmetic products.

The Role of Bioactive Compounds and other Metabolites from Mushrooms against Skin Disorders- A Systematic Review Assessing their Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Outcomes

Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented antiinflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anticollagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of Inflammatory Skin Diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin, and correct Hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

Phenylpropanoids and its derivatives: biological activities and its role in food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries

Phenylpropanoids and their derivatives are plant secondary metabolites widely present in fruits, vegetables, cereal grains, beverages, spices and herbs. They are known to have multifaceted effects which include antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, anticancer activities and as well as exhibits renoprotective, neuroprotective, cardioprotective and hepatoprotective effects. Owing to their antioxidant, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties, these compounds have wide application in the food (preservation, packaging films and edible coating), pharmaceutical, cosmetic and other industries such as textile (colorant), biofuel (antioxidant additive) and sensors (sensing biologically relevant molecules). Phenylpropanoids are present in commercially available dietary supplements and skin care products. In this review, we have presented the current knowledge on the biosynthesis, occurrence, biological activities of phenylpropanoids and their derivatives, along with the mechanism of action and their potential applications in various industries.

Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.

p-Coumaric Acid as An Active Ingredient in Cosmetics: A Review Focusing on its Antimelanogenic Effects

Controlling unwanted hyperpigmentation is a major challenge in dermatology and cosmetology, and safe and efficacious antimelanogenic agents are deemed useful for this purpose. p-Coumaric acid is a natural metabolite contained in many edible plants, and its antioxidant activities in reducing oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions have been demonstrated in various experimental models. p-Coumaric acid has the optimal structure to be a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase that catalyzes key reactions in the melanin biosynthetic pathway. Experimental evidence supports this notion as it was found to be a more potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, especially toward human enzymes, than other well-known tyrosinase inhibitors such as arbutin and kojic acid. p-Coumaric acid inhibited melanin synthesis in murine melanoma cells, human epidermal melanocytes, and reconstituted three-dimensional human skin models. Ex-vivo skin permeation experiments and in-vivo efficacy tests for p-coumaric acid confirmed its efficient transdermal delivery and functional efficacy in reducing erythema development and skin pigmentation due to ultraviolet radiation exposure. Human studies further supported its effectiveness in hypopigmentation and depigmentation. These findings suggest that p-coumaric acid has good potential to be used as a skin-lightening active ingredient in cosmetics. Future studies are needed to extensively examine its safety and efficacy and to develop an optimized cosmetic formulation for the best performance in skin lightening.

Luteolin 7-Sulfate Attenuates Melanin Synthesis through Inhibition of CREB- and MITF-Mediated Tyrosinase Expression

Antioxidants with antimelanogenic activity are potentially useful for the attenuation of skin hyperpigmentation disorders. In a previous study, luteolin 7-sulfate isolated from Phyllospadix iwatensis Makino, a marine plant, was shown to inhibit cellular melanin synthesis. The aim of the present study was to examine its action mechanism, focusing on the regulation of tyrosinase (TYR) expression in cells. Cell-based assay was undertaken using murine melanoma B16-F10 cells and primary human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs). Luteolin 7-sulfate showed lower toxicity compared to luteolin in B16-F10 cells. At the non-toxic concentration ranges, luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated melanin synthesis, stimulated by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone or forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate attenuated forskolin-induced microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and TYR expressions at the mRNA and protein levels in B16-F10 cells. It also attenuated the phosphorylation of cAMP-responsive element binding protein (CREB) stimulated by forskolin. Luteolin 7-sulfate also attenuated melanin synthesis in primary HEMs. This study demonstrates that luteolin 7-sulfate attenuates TYR gene expression through the intervention of a CREB- and MITF-mediated signaling pathway, leading to the decreased melanin synthesis.

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Inhibitors of Melanogenesis: An Updated Review

Melanins are pigment molecules that determine the skin, eye, and hair color of the human subject to its amount, quality, and distribution. Melanocytes synthesize melanin and provide epidermal protection from various stimuli, such as harmful ultraviolet radiation, through the complex process called melanogenesis. However, serious dermatological problems occur when there is excessive production of melanin in different parts of the human body. These include freckles, melasma, senile lentigo, pigmented acne scars, and cancer. Therefore, controlling the production of melanin is an important approach for the treatment of pigmentation related disorderes. In this Perspective, we focus on the inhibitors of melanogenesis that directly/indirectly target a key enzyme tyrosinase as well as its associated signaling pathways.

Spectrophotometric Characterization of the Action of Tyrosinase on p-Coumaric and Caffeic Acids: Characteristics of o-Caffeoquinone

New methods are proposed to determine the activity of tyrosinase on caffeic and p-coumaric acids. Because o-quinone from caffeic acid is unstable in its presence, it has been characterized through spectrophotometric measurements of the disappearance of coupled reducing agents, such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide reduced form. It has also been characterized by a chronometric method, measuring the time that a known concentration of ascorbic acid takes to be consumed. The activity on p-coumaric acid has been followed by measuring the formation of o-quinone of caffeic acid at the isosbestic point originated between caffeic acid and o-caffeoquinone and measuring the formation of o-quinone at 410 nm, which is stable in the presence of p-coumaric acid (both of them in the presence of catalytic amounts of caffeic acid, maintaining the ratio between p-coumaric acid and caffeic acid constant; R = 0.025). The k_cat value of tyrosinase obtained for caffeic acid was higher than that obtained for p-coumaric acid, while the affinity was higher for p-coumaric acid. These values agree with those obtained in docking studies involving these substrates and oxytyrosinase.

Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review

Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.

The Effect of Coumaric Acid on Ischemia-Reperfusion Injury of Sciatic Nerve in Rats

The aim of the study was to determine the effect of coumaric acid on sciatic nerve ischemia/reperfusion (SNI) injury in rats. The rats were randomly divided into four groups: control group (no medication or surgical procedure), SNI group, SNI + coumaric acid (CA) group, and SNI + methylprednisolone (MP) group. Ischemia was achieved by abdominal aorta clamping, and all animals were sacrificed 24 h after ischemia. Harvested sciatic nerve segments were investigated histopathologically and for tissue biochemistry. A significant decrease in MDA, an increase in NRF1 levels, and increase in SOD activity were observed in the groups which received coumaric acid and methylprednisolone when compared to the corresponding untreated group (p < 0.05). Ischemic fiber degeneration significantly reduced in the SNI + CA and SNI + MP groups, especially in the SNI + MP group, compared to the SNI group (p < 0.05). Beta amyloid protein expressions were significantly decreased in the SNI + CA group compared to the SNI group (p < 0.05). Our study revealed that coumaric acid treatment after ischemia/reperfusion in rat sciatic nerves reduced oxidative stress and axonal degeneration. Therefore, coumaric acid may play a role in the treatment of peripheral nerve injuries due to ischemia/reperfusion.

p-Coumaric acid and its conjugates: dietary sources, pharmacokinetic properties and biological activities

p-Coumaric acid (4-hydroxycinnamic acid) is a phenolic acid that has low toxicity in mice (LD50 = 2850 mg kg(-1) body weight), serves as a precursor of other phenolic compounds, and exists either in free or conjugated form in plants. Conjugates of p-coumaric acid have been extensively studied in recent years due to their bioactivities. In this review, the occurrence, bioavailability and bioaccessibility of p-coumaric acid and its conjugates with mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides, alkyl alcohols, organic acids, amine and lignin are discussed. Their biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-cancer, antimicrobial, antivirus, anti-inflammatory, antiplatelet aggregation, anxiolytic, antipyretic, analgesic, and anti-arthritis activities, and their mitigatory effects against diabetes, obesity, hyperlipaemia and gout are compared. Cumulative evidence from multiple studies indicates that conjugation of p-coumaric acid greatly strengthens its biological activities; however, the high biological activity but low absorption of its conjugates remains a puzzle. © 2015 Society of Chemical Industry.

The Neuroprotective Effect of Coumaric Acid on Spinal Cord Ischemia/Reperfusion Injury in Rats

The main causes of spinal cord ischemia are a variety of vascular pathologies causing acute arterial occlusions. We investigated neuroprotective effects of coumaric acid on spinal cord ischemia injury in rats. Rats were divided randomly into four groups of eight animals as follows: control, ischemia, ischemia + coumaric acid, and ischemia + methylprednisolone. In the control group, only a laparotomy was performed. In all other groups, the spinal cord ischemia was performed by the infrarenal aorta cross-clamping model. Levels of malondialdehyde and nuclear respiratory factor 1 were analyzed, as were the activity of superoxide dismutase. Histopathological and immunohistochemical evaluations were performed. Neurological evaluation was performed with the Tarlov scoring system. The ischemia + coumaric acid group was compared with the ischemia group, and a significant decrease in malondialdehyde and levels was observed. Nuclear respiratory factor 1 level and superoxide dismutase activity of the ischemia + coumaric acid group were significantly higher than in the ischemia group. In histopathological samples, the ischemia + coumaric acid group is compared with the ischemia group, and there was a significant increase in numbers of normal neurons. In immunohistochemical staining, hypoxia-inducible factor-1α and NF-kappa B immunopositive neurons were significantly decreased in the ischemia + coumaric acid group compared with that in the ischemia group. The neurological deficit scores of the ischemia + coumaric acid group were significantly higher than the ischemia group at 24 h. Our results revealed for the first time that coumaric acid exhibits meaningful neuroprotective activity following ischemia-reperfusion injury of the spinal cord.

p-Coumaric Acid Attenuates UVB-Induced Release of Stratifin from Keratinocytes and Indirectly Regulates Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 Release from Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced loss of dermal extracellular matrix is associated with skin photoaging. Recent studies demonstrated that keratinocyte-releasable stratifin (SFN) plays a critical role in skin collagen metabolism by inducing matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP1) expression in target fibroblasts. In the present study, we examined whether SFN released from UVB-irradiated epidermal keratinocytes increases MMP1 release from dermal fibroblasts, and whether these events are affected by p-coumaric acid (p-CA), a natural phenolic compound with UVB-shielding and antioxidant properties. HaCaT cells were exposed to UVB in the absence and presence of p-CA, and the conditioned medium was used to stimulate fibroblasts in medium transfer experiments. The cells and media were analyzed to determine the expressions/releases of SFN and MMP1. UVB exposure increased SFN release from keratinocytes into the medium. The conditioned medium of UVB-irradiated keratinocytes increased MMP1 release from fibroblasts. The depletion of SFN using a siRNA rendered the conditioned medium of UVB-irradiated keratinocytes ineffective at stimulating fibroblasts to release MMP1. p-CA mitigated UVB-induced SFN expression in keratinocytes, and attenuated the MMP1 release by fibroblasts in medium transfer experiments. In conclusion, the present study demonstrated that the use of UV absorbers such as p-CA would reduce UV-induced SFN-centered signaling events involved in skin photoaging.

A study of the human skin-whitening effects of resveratryl triacetate

Resveratrol has a variety of bioactivities that include its anti-melanogenic effects, but its use in cosmetics has been challenging partly because of its chemical instability. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a prodrug that can enhance stability. The purpose of this study was to examine the skin safety and whitening effects of RTA in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potentials of RTA and resveratrol were tested at 0.1 and 0.5 % on human subjects. Resveratrol at a concentration of 0.5 % induced weak skin irritation, whereas RTA did not induce any skin responses. The skin-whitening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.4 % RTA was evaluated in two different test models. In the artificial tanning model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the skin of the forearms of 22 human subjects after pigmentation induction by ultraviolet irradiation. Applying the test and the control products to the artificial tanning model for 8 weeks increased the individual topology angles (ITA°) by 17.06 and 13.81 %, respectively, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In the hyperpigmentation model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the faces of 21 human subjects. The averaged intensity of the hyperpigmented spots decreased by 2.67 % in the test group and 1.46 % in the control group, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). Therefore, RTA incorporated into cosmetic formulations can whiten human skin without inducing skin irritation.

Effects of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and their acetylated derivatives on cellular melanogenesis

Resveratrol and oxyresveratrol are naturally occurring phenolic compounds with various bioactivities, but their uses in cosmetics have been partly limited by their chemical instabilities. This study was performed to examine the anti-melanogenic effects of the acetylated derivatives from resveratrol and oxyresveratrol. Resveratrol and oxyresveratrol were chemically modified to triacetyl resveratrol and tetraacetyl oxyresveratrol, respectively. The acetylated compounds were less susceptible than the parent compounds to oxidative discoloration. The acetylated compounds inhibited the activities of tyrosinases less than parent compounds in vitro, but they were as effective at cellular melanogenesis inhibition, indicating bioconversion to parent compounds inside cells. Supporting this notion, the parent compounds were regenerated when the acetylated compounds were digested with cell lysates. Although resveratrol and triacetyl resveratrol inhibited tyrosinase activity less effectively than oxyresveratrol and tetraacetyl oxyresveratrol in vitro, they inhibited cellular melanogenesis more effectively. This discrepancy was explained by strong inhibition of tyrosinase expression by resveratrol and triacetyl resveratrol. Experiments using a reconstituted skin model indicated that resveratrol derivatives can affect melanin synthesis and cell viability to different extents. Collectively, this study suggests that acetylated derivatives of resveratrol have great potential as anti-melanogenic agents for cosmetic use in terms of efficacy, safety, and stability.

Effects of cosmetic formulations containing hydroxyacids on sun-exposed skin: current applications and future developments

This paper describes recent data on the effects of various skin formulations containing hydroxyacids (HAs) and related products on sun-exposed skin. The most frequently used classes of these products, such as α- and β-hydroxyacids, polyhydroxy acids, and bionic acids, are reviewed, and their application in cosmetic formulations is described. Special emphasis is devoted to the safety evaluation of these formulations, particularly on the effects of their prolonged use on sun-exposed skin. We also discuss the important contribution of cosmetic vehicles in these types of studies. Data on the effects of HAs on melanogenesis and tanning are also included. Up-to-date methods and techniques used in those explorations, as well as selected future developments in the cosmetic area, are presented.

Screening of plant extracts for human tyrosinase inhibiting effects

Screening for tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitors potentially useful for control of skin pigmentation has been hampered by the limited availability of human TYR. To overcome this hurdle, we have established human embryonic kidney (HEK293)-TYR cells that constitutively express human TYR. In the current study, we assayed human TYR inhibition activities of 50 plant extracts using the lysates of transformed HEK293-TYR cells. The strongest inhibition of human TYR was shown by the extract of Vaccinium bracteatum Thunberg, followed by the extract of Morus bombycis Koidzumi. The former extract did not inhibit mushroom TYR activity whereas significant inhibition was observed with the latter extract, demonstrating the importance of using human TYR in the screening for human TYR inhibitors. Upon liquid-liquid partitioning of the extract from V. bracteatum, the active constituents were enriched in the ethyl acetate fraction, and the subsequent preparatory thin-layer chromatography identified p-coumaric acid (PCA) as the main active constituent. The hypo-pigmentation of PCA was verified in the MelanoDerm™ Skin Model. This study demonstrates that transformed HEK293-TYR cells could expedite the discovery of human TYR-specific inhibitors from natural sources which might be useful in the control of skin pigmentation.

Comparison of the antimelanogenic effects of p-coumaric acid and its methyl ester and their skin permeabilities

BACKGROUND

p-Coumaric acid (PCA) inhibits human tyrosinase (TYR) activity and melanin synthesis in human epidermal melanocytes.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of the current study was to examine the potential of PCA and its hydrophobic derivative, methyl p-coumarate (MPC), as hypopigmenting agents for topical use.

METHODS

PCA and MPC were comparatively tested against in vitro human TYR enzyme activity and cellular melanin synthesis in human epidermal melanocytes. Permeation studies were undertaken using an artificial lipophilic membrane and an excised porcine skin. In vivo hypopigmenting efficacy was assessed on the skin of melanin-possessing hairless mice exposed to UVB.

RESULTS

Although PCA was a stronger inhibitor than MPC against TYR activity in vitro, the former inhibited cellular melanin synthesis less effectively than the latter. A non-cell based permeability assay indicated that PCA was practically impermeable through the lipophilic barrier while MPC was highly permeable. In contrast, an ex vivo skin permeation study demonstrated that topically applied PCA in the form of a cream can diffuse into the aqueous medium underneath the skin. No MPC was released from a MPC cream but PCA was released instead as a bio-converted product. Topical application of PCA cream attenuated the UVB-induced erythema formation and pigmentation in mice models, more effectively compared with MPC cream.

CONCLUSION

PCA may be useful as an active ingredient for topical applications for a hypopigmenting effect. MPC has potential as a hypopigmenting agent but requires rather invasive methods for its delivery to the target cells.