The stratum corneum: the rampart of the mammalian body

Unlocking the role of herbal cosmeceutical in anti-ageing and skin ageing associated diseases

The process of skin ageing is a natural biological phenomenon characterised by the emergence of wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin, and dryness over time. The increasing significance of skin in physical attractiveness has heightened skincare concerns. Anti-ageing cosmetics play a pivotal role in nurturing the skin, enhancing its quality, and promoting overall health. Today, cosmetics have evolved beyond mere aesthetics and are now integral to individual wellness. The contemporary quest for perpetual youth has intensified, prompting a deeper exploration into the skin ageing process. This comprehensive exploration delves into various elements involved in skin ageing, encompassing cells such as stem and endothelial cells, blood vessels, soft tissues, and signalling pathways. The molecular basis of skin ageing, including biochemical factors like reactive oxygen species, damaged DNA, free radicals, ions, and proteins (mRNA), is scrutinised alongside relevant animal models. The article critically analyzes the outcomes of utilising herbal components, emphasising their advantageous anti-ageing properties. The factors contributing to skin ageing, mechanistic perspectives, management approaches involving herbal cosmeceutical, and associated complications (especially cardiovascular diseases, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, etc.) are succinctly addressed. In addition, the manuscript further summarises the recent patented innovations and toxicity of the herbal cosmeceuticals for anti-ageing and ageing associated disorders. Despite progress, further research is imperative to unlock the full potential of herbal components as anti-ageing agents.

Enhancement of Exfoliating Effects through the Novel Cosmetic Ingredient Mandelic acid_Carnitine Ion-Pairing Complex

PURPOSE

This study aimed to develop a novel exfoliating material with high efficacy and low irritation by synthesizing the Mandelic acid_Carnitine ion pairing complex (M_C complex) and evaluating its exfoliating properties. Additionally, the study assessed the skin improvement effects of the M_C complex through clinical evaluations.

METHODS

The M_C complex was synthesized in a 1:1 molar ratio of Mandelic acid and Carnitine. Structural characterization was performed using dynamic light scattering and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. Exfoliating efficacy was evaluated on porcine skin, and clinical assessments were conducted on human subjects to measure various skin improvement parameters.

RESULTS

The formation of the M_C complex was confirmed through particle size analysis, zeta-potential measurements, and FT-IR spectroscopy. The M_C complex demonstrated superior exfoliating efficacy compared to Mandelic acid alone, especially at pH 4.5. Clinical evaluations showed significant improvements in blackheads, whiteheads, pore volume, depth, density, count, and affected area, as well as skin texture. No adverse reactions were observed.

CONCLUSION

The M_C complex exhibits high exfoliating efficacy and minimal irritation, making it a promising cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health. These findings support its potential as a low-irritation exfoliating material under mildly acidic conditions, contributing to overall skin health enhancement.

Comprehensive transcriptional analysis of early dorsal skin development in pigs

Porcine skin is similar to human skin in physiology, anatomy and histology and is often used as a model animal for human skin research. There are few studies on the transcriptome aspects of pig skin during the embryonic period. In this study, RNA sequencing was performed on the dorsal skin of Chenghua sows at embryonic day 56 (E56), embryonic day 76 (E76), embryonic day 105 (E105), and 3 days after birth (D3) to explore RNA changes in pig dorsal skin at four ages. A number of skin-related differential genes were identified by intercomparison between RNAs at four time points, and KEGG functional analysis showed that these differential genes were mainly enriched in metabolic and developmental, immune, and disease pathways, and the pathways enriched in GO analysis were highly overlapping. Collagen is an important part of the skin, with type I collagen making up the largest portion. In this study, collagen type I alpha 1 (COL1A1) and collagen type I alpha 2 (COL1A2) were significantly upregulated at four time points. In addition, lncRNA-miRNA-mRNA and miRNA-circRNA coexpression networks were constructed. The data obtained may help to explain age-related changes in transcriptional patterns during skin development and provide further references for understanding human skin development at the molecular level.

Lespedeza maximowiczii flower absolute promotes skin epithelization, barrier properties, and moisturization-related beneficial responses in human keratinocytes

Lespedeza maximowiczii (LM), a member of the legume family, has tyrosinase inhibitory and estrogenic activities. However, its effects on skin-related biological activities remain unclear. Therefore, the present study aimed to explore the effects of LM flower absolute (LMFAb) on skin-related biological events, especially skin re-epithelization, barrier and moisturizing-related keratinocyte (HaCaT cell) responses. In this study, LMFAb was isolated from LM flowers via solvent extraction and its chemical composition analysis was performed using gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. 5-bromo-2'-deoxyuridine incorporation, Boyden chamber, sprout outgrowth, enzyme-linked immunosorbent, and Western blot assay were used to analyze the biological effects of LMFAb on HaCaT cells (a human epidermal keratinocyte cell line). Twelve components were identified in LMFAb. LMFAb promoted cell proliferation, migration, and sprout outgrowth in HaCaT cells. The absolute enhanced the activations of MAPKs (ERK1/2, JNK, and p38), PI3K and AKT proteins in HaCaT cells and elevated collagen type I and IV levels in HaCaT cell conditioned medium. In addition, LMFAb induced an increase in the expression levels of epidermal barrier proteins (filaggrin and involucrin) in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, LMFAb increased hyaluronan (HA) production and expression of HA synthases (HAS-1, HAS-2, and HAS-3) but decreased HYBID (HA binding protein involved in HA depolymerization) level in HaCaT cells. These findings demonstrate that LMFAb might promote skin re-epithelization, barrier and moisturizing-related beneficial responses in keratinocytes. This study suggests that LMFAb should be considered a potential starting material for the development of cosmetic or pharmaceutical agents that restore the functions of damaged skin.

Novel Therapeutic Hybrid Systems Using Hydrogels and Nanotechnology: A Focus on Nanoemulgels for the Treatment of Skin Diseases

Topical and transdermal drug delivery are advantageous administration routes, especially when treating diseases and conditions with a skin etiology. Nevertheless, conventional dosage forms often lead to low therapeutic efficacy, safety issues, and patient noncompliance. To tackle these issues, novel topical and transdermal platforms involving nanotechnology have been developed. This review focuses on the latest advances regarding the development of nanoemulgels for skin application, encapsulating a wide variety of molecules, including already marketed drugs (miconazole, ketoconazole, fusidic acid, imiquimod, meloxicam), repurposed marketed drugs (atorvastatin, omeprazole, leflunomide), natural-derived compounds (eucalyptol, naringenin, thymoquinone, curcumin, chrysin, brucine, capsaicin), and other synthetic molecules (ebselen, tocotrienols, retinyl palmitate), for wound healing, skin and skin appendage infections, skin inflammatory diseases, skin cancer, neuropathy, or anti-aging purposes. Developed formulations revealed adequate droplet size, PDI, viscosity, spreadability, pH, stability, drug release, and drug permeation and/or retention capacity, having more advantageous characteristics than current marketed formulations. In vitro and/or in vivo studies established the safety and efficacy of the developed formulations, confirming their therapeutic potential, and making them promising platforms for the replacement of current therapies, or as possible adjuvant treatments, which might someday effectively reach the market to help fight highly incident skin or systemic diseases and conditions.

A review of sebum in mammals in relation to skin diseases, skin function, and the skin microbiome

Diseases vary among and within species but the causes of this variation can be unclear. Immune responses are an important driver of disease variation, but mechanisms on how the body resists pathogen establishment before activation of immune responses are understudied. Skin surfaces of mammals are the first line of defense against abiotic stressors and pathogens, and skin attributes such as pH, microbiomes, and lipids influence disease outcomes. Sebaceous glands produce sebum composed of multiple types of lipids with species-specific compositions. Sebum affects skin barrier function by contributing to minimizing water loss, supporting thermoregulation, protecting against pathogens, and preventing UV-induced damage. Sebum also affects skin microbiome composition both via its antimicrobial properties, and by providing potential nutrient sources. Intra- and interspecific variation in sebum composition influences skin disease outcomes in humans and domestic mammal species but is not well-characterized in wildlife. We synthesized knowledge on sebum function in mammals in relation to skin diseases and the skin microbiome. We found that sebum composition was described for only 29 live, wild mammalian species. Sebum is important in dermatophilosis, various forms of dermatitis, demodicosis, and potentially white-nose syndrome. Sebum composition likely affects disease susceptibility, as lipid components can have antimicrobial functions against specific pathogens. It is unclear why sebum composition is species-specific, but both phylogeny and environmental effects may drive differences. Our review illustrates the role of mammal sebum function and influence on skin microbes in the context of skin diseases, providing a baseline for future studies to elucidate mechanisms of disease resistance beyond immune responses.

A review of cutaneous hypersensitivity reactions in dogs: A diagnostician's guide to allergy

Allergic dermatoses are common in people and domestic animals. Resultant lesions are routinely biopsied and submitted for histological examination to confirm a diagnosis or rule out diseases with overlapping or atypical clinical features. Diagnostic pathologists and clinicians are often faced with the difficult task of determining whether an allergic reaction pattern is present on both the microscopic and macroscopic levels and correlating histopathologic findings with clinical and historical data to achieve a precise clinical diagnosis. The bulk of the current veterinary literature on allergic dermatoses focuses on atopic dermatitis in dogs, distantly followed by cats, horses, and other animals. The objectives of this review are to demonstrate the key histopathologic and clinical diagnostic features of the various allergy-mediated reaction patterns, and to provide diagnosticians with a practical guide for clinicopathological correlations. Current concepts in the pathophysiology of immediate hypersensitivity reactions, with a focus on atopic dermatitis, are discussed. Points of potential histopathologic overlap between the "classic" allergic reaction pattern and less common inflammatory, predominately eosinophilic, conditions that may mimic this pattern will be discussed with the goal of highlighting the critical need for collaboration between pathologists and clinicians in furthering patient care.

Stratum corneum lipid and cytokine biomarkers at age 2 months predict the future onset of atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Atopic dermatitis (AD) commonly occurs in children and can progress into severe phenotypes or atopic march, causing significant impairment in quality of life. It is important to find early biomarkers of future onset of AD before any clinical manifestations.

OBJECTIVE

We sought to find early predictors of future onset of AD in skin stratum corneum (SC).

METHODS

Skin tape strips were collected from the forearm of newborns (n = 111) with and without family history of atopic diseases at the age of 2 months before any signs of clinical AD. Children were clinically monitored until they reached age 2 years to ensure the presence or absence of AD. Skin tape strips were subjected to lipidomic analyses by the liquid chromatography electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry and cytokine determination by Meso Scale Discovery U-Plex assay.

RESULTS

Overall, 22 of 74 (29.7%) and 5 of 37 (13.5%) infants developed AD in the risk group and the control group, respectively. In the SC of future AD children, protein-bound ceramides were decreased (P < .001), whereas unsaturated sphingomyelin species (P < .0001) and "short-chain" nonhydroxy fatty acid sphingosine and alpha-hydroxy fatty acid sphingosine ceramides were elevated (P < .01 and .05, respectively) as compared with healthy children. Thymic stromal lymphopoietin and IL-13 levels were increased in the SC of future AD subjects (by 74.5% and 78.3%, P = .0022 and P < .0001, respectively). Multivariable logistic regression analysis revealed strong AD predicting power of the combination of family history, type 2 cytokines, and dysregulated lipids, with an odds ratio reaching 54.0 (95% CI, 9.2-317.5).

CONCLUSIONS

Noninvasive skin tape strip analysis at age 2 months can identify asymptomatic children at risk of future AD development with a high probability.

Dysregulated ceramide metabolism in mouse progressive dermatitis resulting from constitutive activation of Jak1

Coordinated lipid metabolism contributes to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating skin barrier formation, immune reactions, thermogenesis, and perception. Several reports have documented the changes in lipid composition in dermatitis, including in atopic dermatitis (AD); however, the specific mechanism by which these lipid profiles are altered during AD pathogenesis remains unknown. Here, we performed untargeted and targeted lipidomic analyses of an AD-like dermatitis model resulting from constitutive activation of Janus kinase 1 (Spade mice) to capture the comprehensive lipidome profile during dermatitis onset and progression. We successfully annotated over 700 skin lipids, including glycerophospholipids, ceramides, neutral lipids, and fatty acids, many of which were found to be present at significantly changed levels after dermatitis onset, as determined by the pruritus and erythema. Among them, we found the levels of ceramides composed of nonhydroxy fatty acid and dihydrosphingosine containing very long-chain (C22 or more) fatty acids were significantly downregulated before AD onset. Furthermore, in vitro enzyme assays using the skin of Spade mice demonstrated the enhancement of ceramide desaturation. Finally, we revealed topical application of ceramides composed of nonhydroxy fatty acid and dihydrosphingosine before AD onset effectively ameliorated the progression of AD symptoms in Spade mice. Our results suggest that the disruption in epidermal ceramide composition is caused by boosting ceramide desaturation in the initiation phase of AD, which regulates AD pathogenesis.

Human Tissue Kallikreins-Related Peptidases Are Targets for the Treatment of Skin Desquamation Diseases

Human tissue Kallikrein-related peptidases (hKLKs) are serine proteases distributed in several tissues that are involved in several biological processes. In skin, many are responsible for skin desquamation in the Stratum Corneum (SC) of the epidermis, specially hKLK5, hKLK7, hKLK6, hKLK8, and hKLK14. In SC, hKLKs cleave proteins of corneodesmosomes, an important structure responsible to maintain corneocytes attached. As part of skin desquamation, hKLKs are also involved in skin diseases with abnormal desquamation and inflammation, such as Atopic Dermatitis (AD), psoriasis, and the rare disease Netherton Syndrome (NS). Many studies point to hKLK overexpression or overactive in skin diseases, and they are also part of the natural skin inflammation process, through the PAR2 cleavage pathway. Therefore, the control of hKLK activity may offer successful treatments for skin diseases, improving the quality of life in patients. Diseases like AD, Psoriasis, and NS have an impact on social life, causing pain, itchy and mental disorders. In this review, we address the molecular mechanisms of skin desquamation, emphasizing the roles of human tissue Kallikrein-related peptidases, and the promising therapies targeting the inhibition of hKLKs.

Detection of testosterone microdosing in healthy females

The ready detectability of synthetic androgens by mass spectrometry (MS)-based antidoping tests has reoriented androgen doping to using testosterone (T), which must be distinguished from its endogenous counterpart making detection of exogenous T harder. We investigated urine and serum steroid and hematological profiling individually and combined to determine the optimal detection model for T administration in women. Twelve healthy females provided six paired blood and urine samples over 2 weeks prior to treatment consisting of 12.5-mg T in a topical transdermal gel applied daily for 7 days. Paired blood and urine samples were then obtained at the end of treatment and Days 1, 2, 4, 7, and 14 days later. Compliance with treatment and sampling was high, and no adverse effects were reported. T treatment significantly increased serum and urine T, serum dihydrotestosterone (DHT), urine 5α-androstane-3α,17β-diol (5α-diol) epitestosterone (E), and urine T/E ratio with a brief window of detection (2-4 days) as well as total and immature (medium and high fluorescence) reticulocytes that remained elevated over the full 14 posttreatment days. Carbon isotope ratio MS and the OFF score and Abnormal Blood Profile score (ABPS) were not discriminatory. The optimal multivariate model to identify T exposure combined serum T, urine T/E ratio with three hematological variables (% high fluorescence reticulocytes, mean corpuscular hemoglobin, and volume) with the five variables providing 93% correct classification (4% false positive, 10% false negatives). Hence, combining select serum and urine steroid MS variables with reticulocyte measures can achieve a high but imperfect detection of T administration to healthy females.

Effects of age, sex, and breed on the composition of free extractable ceramides in the stratum corneum of healthy dogs

Ceramide (CER), an important component of the extracellular lamellar lipids in the stratum corneum (SC), plays a critical role in maintaining the cutaneous barrier function. This study aimed to determine whether the quantity of free extractable SC CERs in dogs was affected by the age, sex, or breed. Fifty-eight dogs from the breeds Shiba Inu, beagle, miniature dachshund, shih tzu, and golden retriever, without any history of skin problems, were enrolled in this study. Lipid extracts from the SC were subjected to high-performance thin-layer chromatography to quantify the free extractable CERs. There were weak negative correlations between the age and the amount of free extractable CERs, CER [NP] (non-hydroxy fatty acids linked to phytosphingosines), CER [AS/NH] (α-hydroxy fatty acids linked to sphingosines/non-hydroxy fatty acids linked to 6-hydroxysphingosines), and CER [AP] (α-hydroxy fatty acids and phytosphingosines). There were no significant sex- or breed-related differences in the amounts of free extractable SC CERs in the dogs. These findings imply that aging causes a decline in the amount of free extractable SC CERs in dogs, similar to that observed in humans. The sex or breed of the dogs investigated in this study did not influence the amount of free extractable SC CERs.

Lycoperoside H, a Tomato Seed Saponin, Improves Epidermal Dehydration by Increasing Ceramide in the Stratum Corneum and Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Effect

Tomatoes are widely consumed, however, studies on tomato seeds are limited. In this study, we isolated 11 compounds including saponins and flavonol glycosides from tomato seeds and evaluated their effects on epidermal hydration. Among the isolated compounds, tomato seed saponins (10 µM) significantly increased the mRNA expression of proteins related to epidermal hydration, including filaggrin, involucrin, and enzymes for ceramide synthesis, by 1.32- to 1.91-fold compared with the control in HaCaT cells. Tomato seed saponins (10 µM) also decreased transepidermal water loss by 7 to 13 g/m²·h in the reconstructed human epidermal keratinization (RHEK) models. Quantitative analysis of the ceramide content in the stratum corneum (SC) revealed that lycoperoside H (1–10 µM) is a promising candidate to stimulate ceramide synthesis via the upregulation of ceramide synthase-3, glucosylceramide synthase, and β-glucocerebrosidase, which led to an increase in the total SC ceramides (approximately 1.5-fold) in concert with ceramide (NP) (approximately 2-fold) in the RHEK models. Evaluation of the anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects of lycoperoside H demonstrated that lycoperoside H is suggested to act as a partial agonist of the glucocorticoid receptor and exhibits anti-inflammatory effects (10 mg/kg in animal test). These findings indicate that lycoperoside H can improve epidermal dehydration and suppress inflammation by increasing SC ceramide and steroidal anti-inflammatory activity.

Preliminary evaluation of two bathing methods for the management of Malassezia overgrowth in dogs with atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Antifungal shampoos are widely used for canine Malassezia dermatitis. Few studies have evaluated effective bathing methods for atopic dogs with Malassezia overgrowth.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the efficacy of an emollient bathing product (AFLOAT VET) and 2% miconazole/2% chlorhexidine shampoo (2% MIC/CHX) in atopic dogs, and to evaluate the influence on skin barrier function of both products in healthy dogs.

ANIMALS

Sixteen atopic dogs with secondary Malassezia overgrowth and 11 healthy dogs.

METHODS AND MATERIALS

This study was a randomized, single-blinded trial. The dogs were randomly treated with either emollient bathing or 2% MIC/CHX, twice weekly for four weeks. Clinical assessment used the Canine Atopic Dermatitis Extent and Severity Index, 4^th iteration (CADESI-04), pruritus Visual Analog Scale (pVAS), and cytological evaluation of yeast numbers at Day (D)0, D14 and D28. Skin barrier function was determined by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after a single bathing procedure with each product in the healthy dogs.

RESULTS

The pVAS scores and yeast counts were significantly reduced on D28 compared with D0 in both groups (P < 0.05). CADESI-04 was significantly decreased on D28 in the emollient bathing group (P = 0.003). There were no significant differences in each endpoint score between the groups. In healthy dogs, TEWL was significantly increased after bathing in both groups (P < 0.01).

CONCLUSION

An emollient bathing product can be effective for Malassezia overgrowth in dogs with atopic dermatitis. Bathing with shampoo products might affect skin barrier function even when using an emollient product.

Grainyhead-like transcription factors: guardians of the skin barrier

There has been selective pressure to maintain a skin barrier since terrestrial animals evolved 360 million years ago. These animals acquired an unique integumentary system with a keratinized, stratified, squamous epithelium surface barrier. The barrier protects against dehydration and entry of microbes and toxins. The skin barrier centres on the stratum corneum layer of the epidermis and consists of cornified envelopes cemented by the intercorneocyte lipid matrix. Multiple components of the barrier undergo cross-linking by transglutaminase (TGM) enzymes, while keratins provide additional mechanical strength. Cellular tight junctions also are crucial for barrier integrity. The grainyhead-like (GRHL) transcription factors regulate the formation and maintenance of the integument in diverse species. GRHL3 is essential for formation of the skin barrier during embryonic development, whereas GRHL1 maintains the skin barrier postnatally. This is achieved by transactivation of Tgm1 and Tgm5, respectively. In addition to its barrier function, GRHL3 plays key roles in wound repair and as an epidermal tumour suppressor. In its former role, GRHL3 activates the planar cell polarity signalling pathway to mediate wound healing by providing directional migration cues. In squamous epithelium, GRHL3 regulates the balance between proliferation and differentiation, and its loss induces squamous cell carcinoma (SCC). In the skin, this is mediated through increased expression of MIR21, which reduces the expression levels of GRHL3 and its direct target, PTEN, leading to activation of the PI3K-AKT signalling pathway. These data position the GRHL family as master regulators of epidermal homeostasis across a vast gulf of evolutionary history.

Update on canine filaggrin: a review

Human filaggrin (FLG) plays a key role in epidermal barrier function, and loss-of-function mutations of its gene are primarily responsible for the development of human atopic dermatitis (AD). FLG expression is also reduced in the epidermis of atopic patients, due to the transcriptional effect of Th2 type cytokines. Canine atopic dermatitis (CAD) is a prevalent skin disease that shares many clinical and pathogenic features with its human homologue. The aim of this review is discuss current knowledge on canine filaggrin (Flg) in both healthy and atopic dogs, as compared to the human protein. Although the molecular structures of the two proteins, as deduced from the sequences of their gene, are different, their sites of expression and their proteolytic processing in the normal epidermis are similar. Concerning the expression of Flg in CAD, conflicting results have been published at the mRNA level and little accurate information is available at the protein level. It derives from a large precursor, named profilaggrin (proFLG), formed by several FLG units and stored in keratohyalin granules of the stratum granulosum. Canine and human proFLG sequences display little amino acid similarity (33% as shown using the Basic Local Alignment Search Tool (BLAST)) except at the level of the S100 homologous part of the N-terminus (75%). Genetic studies in the dog are at an early stage and are limited by the variety of breeds and the small number of cases included. Many questions remain unanswered about the involvement of Flg in CAD pathogenesis.

Going, Toll-like receptors in skin inflammation and inflammatory diseases

The Indian Ayurvedic physicians knew the concept of inflammation dating back to 1500 BC. The continuous progress in the immunology of inflammation has explained its undiscovered mechanisms. For example, the discovery of Toll-like receptor 4 (TLR4) in humans (1997) has revolutionized the field of infection biology and innate immunity. The laboratory mice have shown twelve TLRs and express TLR10 (CD290) as a disrupted pseudogene, and humans have ten functional TLRs. Now, it is well established that TLRs play a significant role in different infectious and inflammatory diseases. Skin inflammation and other associated inflammatory diseases, including atopic dermatitis (AD), acne vulgaris, and psoriasis, along with many skin cancers are major health problems all over the world. The continuous development in the immunopathogenesis of inflammatory skin diseases has opened the window of opportunity for TLRs in studying their role. Hence, the manuscript explores the role of different TLRs in the pathogenesis of skin inflammation and associated inflammatory diseases. The article starts with the concept of inflammation, its origin, and the impact of TLRs discovery on infection and inflammation biology. The subsequent section describes the burden of skin-associated inflammatory diseases worldwide and the effect of the geographical habitat of people affecting it. The third section explains skin as an immune organ and explains the expression of different TLRs on different skin cells, including keratinocytes, Langerhans cells (LCs), skin fibroblasts, and melanocytes. The fourth section describes the impact of TLRs on these cells in different skin-inflammatory conditions, including acne vulgaris, AD, psoriasis, and skin cancers. The article also discusses the use of different TLR-based therapeutic approaches as specific to these inflammatory skin diseases.

Overall renewal of skin lipids with Vetiver extract for a complete anti-ageing strategy

OBJECTIVE

Skin lipids are essential in every compartment of the skin where they play a key role in various biological functions. Interestingly, their role is central in the maintenance of hydration which is related to skin barrier function and in the skin structure through adipose tissue. It is well described today that skin lipids are affected by ageing giving skin sagging, wrinkles and dryness. Thereby, developing cosmetic actives able to reactivate skin lipids would be an efficient ant-ageing strategy. Due to the strong commitment of our scientists to innovate responsibly and create value, they designed a high value active ingredient named here as Vetiver extract, using a ground-breaking upcycling approach. We evidenced that this unique extract was able to reactivate globally the skin lipids production, bringing skin hydration and plumping effect for mature skin.

METHOD

In order to demonstrate the global renewal of lipids, we evaluated the lipids synthesis on cutaneous cells that produce lipids such as keratinocytes, sebocytes and adipocytes then on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We evaluated the expression of proteins involved in ceramides transport and barrier cornification. We then evaluated hydration and sebaceous parameters on a panel of mature volunteers.

RESULTS

We firstly demonstrated that Vetiver extract induced sebum production from human sebocytes cells lines but also improved its quality as observed by the production of specific antimicrobial lipids. Secondly, we demonstrated that Vetiver extract was able to restore skin barrier with the increase of skin lipids neosynthesis on Reconstructed Human Epidermis and skin explants. We also evidenced that Vetiver extract stimulated the lipids transport and epidermal cornification. Finally, Vetiver extract showed a significant effect on adipogenesis and maturation of adipocytes at in vitro and ex vivo models. We confirmed all these activities by showing that Vetiver extract improved sebum production and brought hydration through an increase of lipids content and their conformation. Vetiver extract induced an improvement of skin fatigue and a plumping effect by acting deeply on adipose tissue.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, we developed an active ingredient able to bring anti-ageing effect for mature skin by a global increase of skin lipids.

Comparative profiling and comprehensive quantification of stratum corneum ceramides in humans and mice by LC/MS/MS

Ceramides are the predominant lipids in the stratum corneum (SC) and are crucial components for normal skin barrier function. Although the composition of various ceramide classes in the human SC has been reported, that in mice is still unknown, despite mice being widely used as animal models of skin barrier function. Here, we performed LC/MS/MS analyses using recently available ceramide class standards to measure 25 classes of free ceramides and 5 classes of protein-bound ceramides from human and mouse SC. Phytosphingosine- and 6-hydroxy sphingosine-type ceramides, which both contain an additional hydroxyl group, were abundant in the human SC (35% and 45% of total ceramides, respectively). In contrast, in mice, phytosph-ingosine- and 6-hydroxy sphingosine-type ceramides were present at ∼1% and undetectable levels, respectively, and sphingosine-type ceramides accounted for ∼90%. In humans, ceramides containing α-hydroxy FA were abundant, whereas ceramides containing β-hydroxy or ω-hydroxy FA were abundant in mice. The hydroxylated β-carbon in β-hydroxy ceramides was in the (R) configuration. Genetic knockout of β-hydroxy acyl-CoA dehydratases in HAP1 cells increased β-hydroxy ceramide levels, suggesting that β-hydroxy acyl-CoA, an FA-elongation cycle intermediate in the ER, is a substrate for β-hydroxy ceramide synthesis. We anticipate that our methods and findings will help to elucidate the role of each ceramide class in skin barrier formation and in the pathogenesis of skin disorders.

Abnormal keratinocyte differentiation in the nasal planum of Labrador Retrievers with hereditary nasal parakeratosis (HNPK)

Hereditary nasal parakeratosis (HNPK) is an inherited disorder described in Labrador Retrievers and Greyhounds. It has been associated with breed-specific variants in the SUV39H2 gene encoding a histone 3 methyltransferase involved in epigenetic silencing. Formalin-fixed biopsies of the nasal planum of Labrador Retrievers were screened by immunofluorescence microscopy for the presence and distribution of epidermal proliferation and differentiation markers. Gene expression of these markers was further analysed using RNA sequencing (RNA-seq) and ultrastructural epidermal differences were investigated by electron microscopy. Differentiation of the nasal planum in the basal and suprabasal epidermal layers of HNPK-affected dogs (n = 6) was similar compared to control dogs (n = 6). In the upper epidermal layers, clear modifications were noticed. Loricrin protein was absent in HNPK-affected nasal planum sections in contrast to sections of the same location of control dogs. However, loricrin was present in the epidermis of paw pads and abdominal skin from HNPK dogs and healthy control dogs. The patterns of keratins K1, K10 and K14, were not markedly altered in the nasal planum of HNPK-affected dogs while the expression of the terminal differentiation marker involucrin appeared less regular. Based on RNA-seq, LOR and IVL expression levels were significantly decreased, while KRT1, KRT10 and KRT14 levels were up-regulated (log2fold-changes of 2.67, 3.19 and 1.71, respectively) in HNPK-affected nasal planum (n = 3) compared to control dogs (n = 3). Electron microscopical analysis revealed structural alterations in keratinocytes and stratum corneum, and disrupted keratinocyte adhesions and distended intercellular spaces in lesional samples (n = 3) compared to a sample of a healthy control dog (n = 1). Our findings demonstrate aberrant keratinocyte terminal differentiation of the nasal planum of HNPK-affected Labrador Retrievers and provide insights into biological consequences of this inactive SUV39H2 gene variant.

Establishment and characterization of proliferating primary cultures of equine epidermal keratinocytes

Skin-derived tissue cultures are a useful model to study molecular mechanisms of skin renewal and pathogenesis of dermal diseases. Horses often suffer from skin diseases, skin trauma and problems with proper wound healing, which could be improved by in vitro grown keratinocyte grafts. Herein we describe establishment and characterization of equine skin-derived primary cell cultures, using enzymatic and explant methods. The established cell lines of primary equine keratinocytes (peK) maintained high proliferative capacity for over five passages and expressed different epithelial/keratinocyte-specific markers. Characterization of the primary culture was performed in parallel with localization studies of the markers in the skin histological sections, using commercially available antibodies. Relative expression of typical differentiation stage-specific markers was determined in the established cell lines, using RT-qPCR. Basal (proliferating) keratinocytes were the predominant cell type in the established cell lines, but low expression of post-mitotic keratinocyte markers was also detected. Differences in marker expression were observed neither between the peK originating from two different animals nor between the peK established with two different methods (enzymatically or by explanting). The described methods in combination with the suggested characterization and differentiation markers are suitable for establishment of proliferating peK and evaluation of their differentiation status.

Pharmacotherapy: Its impact on morphofunctional characteristics of the epidermal barrier

Various pharmaceuticals used for topical and systemic therapy are capable of exerting significant impact on morphological and physiological characteristics of human epidermis, as well as its barrier properties. This may affect the course of dermatologic diseases and the efficacy of their treatment. In this literature review, the author analyzes the impact of various pharmaceutical classes on the morphofunctional characteristics of the epidermal barrier and formulates recommendations for skin disease treatment.

The putative C-type lectin Schlaff ensures epidermal barrier compactness in Drosophila

The stability of extracellular matrices is in general ensured by cross-linking of its components. Previously, we had shown that the integrity of the layered Drosophila cuticle relies on the presence of a covalent cuticular dityrosine network. Production and composition of this structure remained unstudied. In this work, we present our analyses of the schlaff (slf) gene coding for a putative C-type lectin that is needed for the adhesion between the horizontal cuticle layers. The Slf protein mainly localizes between the two layers called epicuticle and procuticle that separate from each other when the function of Slf is reduced or eliminated paralleling the phenotype of a cuticle with reduced extracellular dityrosine. Localisation of the dityrosinylated protein Resilin to the epicuticle-procuticle interface suggests that the dityrosine network mediates the adhesion of the epicuticle to the procuticle. Ultimately, compromised Slf function is associated with massive water loss. In summary, we propose that Slf is implied in the stabilisation of a dityrosine layer especially between the epicuticle and the procuticle that in turn constitutes an outward barrier against uncontrolled water flow.

Oral Intake of Collagen Peptide Attenuates Ultraviolet B Irradiation-Induced Skin Dehydration In Vivo by Regulating Hyaluronic Acid Synthesis

Collagen peptide (CP) has beneficial effects on functions of the skin, such as skin barrier function and skin elasticity, in vivo. However, there are few studies investigating the mechanism underlying the potential effects of CP in skin epidermal moisturization after ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation. In this study, we examined whether orally-administered CP affects the loss of skin hydration induced by UVB irradiation in hairless mice. SKH-1 hairless mice were orally administered CP at two doses (500 and 1000 mg/kg) for nine weeks, and the dorsal skin was exposed to UVB. The potential effects of CP were evaluated by measuring the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, wrinkle formation, and hyaluronic acid expression in the dorsal mice skin. We found that oral administration of CP increased skin hydration and decreased wrinkle formation compared to the UVB-irradiated group. Treatment of CP increased the mRNA and protein expression of hyaluronic acid synthases (HAS-1 and -2) concomitant with an increased hyaluronic acid production in skin tissue. The expression of hyaluronidase (HYAL-1 and 2) mRNA was downregulated in the CP-treated group. In addition, the protein expression of skin-hydrating factors, filaggrin and involucrin, was upregulated via oral administration of CP. In summary, these results show that oral administration of CP increases hyaluronic acid levels, which decreases during UVB photoaging. Therefore, we suggest that CP can be used as a nutricosmetic ingredient with potential effects on UVB-induced skin dehydration and moisture loss in addition to wrinkle formation.

Advances in addressing full-thickness skin defects: a review of dermal and epidermal substitutes

full-thickness skin defects remain a reconstructive challenge. Novel regenerative modalities can aid in addressing these defects. A literature review of currently available dermal and epidermal regenerates was performed. The mechanism and application for each skin substitute was analyzed to provide a guide for these modalities. Available epidermal substitutes include autografts and allografts and may be cultured or noncultured. Dermal regenerate templates exist in biologic and synthetic varieties that differ in the source animal and processing. Epidermal and dermal skin substitutes are promising adjunctive tools for addressing certain soft tissue defects and have improved outcomes in reconstructive procedures. The following article provides a comprehensive review of the biologic materials available and the types of complex wounds amenable to their use.

The ABC transporter Snu and the extracellular protein Snsl cooperate in the formation of the lipid-based inward and outward barrier in the skin of Drosophila

Lipids in extracellular matrices (ECM) contribute to barrier function and stability of epithelial tissues such as the pulmonary alveoli and the skin. In insects, skin waterproofness depends on the outermost layer of the extracellular cuticle termed envelope that contains cuticulin, an unidentified water-repellent complex molecule composed of proteins, lipids and catecholamines. Based on live-imaging analyses of fruit fly larvae, we find that initially envelope units are assembled within putative vesicles harbouring the ABC transporter Snu and the extracellular protein Snsl. In a second step, the content of these vesicles is distributed to cuticular lipid-transporting nanotubes named pore canals and to the cuticle surface in dependence of Snu function. Consistently, the surface of snu and snsl mutant larvae is depleted from lipids and cuticulin. By consequence, these animals suffer uncontrolled water loss and penetration of xenobiotics. Our data allude to a two-step model of envelope i.e. barrier formation. The proposed mechanism in principle parallels the events occurring during differentiation of the lipid-based ECM by keratinocytes in the vertebrate skin suggesting establishment of analogous mechanisms of skin barrier formation in vertebrates and invertebrates.

Fragility of epidermis in newborns, children and adolescents

Within their first days of life, newborns' skin undergoes various adaptation processes needed to accommodate the transition from the wet uterine environment to the dry atmosphere. The skin of newborns and infants is considered as a physiological fragile skin, a skin with lower resistance to aggressions. Fragile skin is divided into four categories up to its origin: physiological fragile skin (age, location), pathological fragile skin (acute and chronic), circumstantial fragile skin (due to environmental extrinsic factors or intrinsic factors such as stress) and iatrogenic fragile skin. Extensive research of the past 10 years have proven evidence that at birth albeit showing a nearly perfect appearance, newborn skin is structurally and functionally immature compared to adult skin undergoing a physiological maturation process after birth at least throughout the first year of life. This article is an overview of all known data about fragility of epidermis in 'fragile populations': newborns, children and adolescents. It includes the recent pathological, pathophysiological and clinical data about fragility of epidermis in various dermatological diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, acne, rosacea, contact dermatitis, irritative dermatitis and focus on UV protection.

Intradermal Delivery of Antigens Enhances Specific IgG and Diminishes IgE Production: Potential Use for Vaccination and Allergy Immunotherapy

Skin is protected by a tough but flexible multilayered barrier and is a front line for immune responses against invading particles. For many years now, skin has been a tissue where certain vaccines are injected for the prevention of infectious disease, however, the detailed mechanisms of the skin immune response are not yet well understood. Using thin and small injection needles, we carefully injected OVA into a restricted region of mouse skin, i.e., intradermal (ID), and examined the antibody response in comparison with subcutaneous (SC) injection or epicutaneous patch administration of OVA. Epicutaneous patches induced a high IgE response against OVA, but IgG production was low. High IgG production was induced by both ID and SC injection, moreover, ID injection induced higher IgG production without any adjutants. Furthermore, OVA-specific IgE production was diminished by ID injection. We found that ID injection could efficiently stimulate skin resident DCs, drive Th1-biased conditions and diminish IgE production. The ID injection response was regulated by Langerin+ dermal DCs, because OVA was taken up mainly by these cells and, after transiently deleting them, the IgE response was no longer diminished and IgG1 production was enhanced. We also tested whether ID injection might be an effective allergy treatment by attempting to inhibit ongoing IgE production in mice with experimentally induced high serum IgE levels. Multiple ID injections of OVA were shown to prevent elevation of serum OVA-specific IgE after repeated allergen challenge. In contrast, SC OVA injection could only transiently inhibit the OVA-specific IgE production. These findings indicated that ID injection results in higher induction of antigen-specific IgG, and thus may be useful for vaccine delivery with little or no adjuvant components. Moreover, the observed diminishment of IgE and induction of Th1-biased immune responses suggest that ID may be a useful injection route for allergy immunotherapy.

Expressions of isopeptide bonds and corneodesmosin in middle ear cholesteatoma

OBJECTIVE

Isopeptide bonds form cross-links between constituent proteins in the horny layer of the epidermis. Corneodesmosin (CDSN) is a major component of corneodesmosomes, which bind corneocytes together. Both play important roles in maintaining epidermal barrier functions. In the present study, we investigated the expressions of isopeptide bonds, CDSN, and related enzymes in middle ear cholesteatoma in comparison with the skin.

DESIGN

Prospective case series of patients with middle ear cholesteatoma.

SETTING

Tertiary medical institute.

PARTICIPANTS

Cholesteatoma and normal postauricular skin were collected from patients with acquired middle ear cholesteatoma during tympanomastoidectomy.

MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES

Expression of e-(g-glutamyl)lysine isopeptide bonds was examined by immunohistochemistry; Expressions of transglutaminase (TGase)1, TGase2, TGase3, and TGase5 by immunohistochemistry and quantitative RT-PCR (qRT-PCR); expression of CDSN by immunohistochemistry, qRT-PCR, and Western blot; and expressions of tissue kallikrein-related peptidase (KLK)5, KLK7, KLK14, and serine peptidase inhibitor Kazal type 5 (SPINK5) by qRT-PCR.

RESULTS

TGase2 was higher (P=0.0046) and TGase5 was lower (P=0.0008) in cholesteatoma than in the postauricular skin. Immunoreactivity for isopeptide bonds was localized in the granular and horny layers, and was not different between the two tissues. Immunoreactivity for CDSN was localized in the granular layer, and was lower in cholesteatoma than in the skin (P=0.0090). Western blot and qRT-PCR confirmed that the expression of CDSN was lower in cholesteatoma than in the skin. Expressions of KLK5, KLK7, KLK14, or SPINK5 were not different between the two tissues.

CONCLUSIONS

These results indicate that the production of CDSN is likely to be suppressed in cholesteatoma, which would account, at least in part, for the mechanical fragility and increased permeability of the cholesteatoma epithelium.

The Camel Rhinarium: A Study Revealing the Presence of the Nasal Plane in Dromedary Camel (Camelus dromedarius), with Special Reference to Its Epidermal Structure

The aim of this study was to prove that the nasal plane (Planum nasale) present in camel (Camelus dromedarius). Furthermore, it was the first description of the gross and primary microscopic anatomy as well as the epidermal ultrastructure of the camel nasal plane. Grossly, the camel rhinarium was formed of the glabrous grayish-black skin that extended to cover the philtrum and the medial nasal angles. It was composed of two perinasal parts and an inter-labial part. A shallow groove was passed across its middle. A dermatoglyphic pattern of epidermal ridges with primary and secondary fissures in between was revealed by scanning electron microscopy. The nasal plane was very small in relation to the camel head size. In general, the morphological appearance of the camel rhinarium was greatly similar to that of the proboscis-bearing mammals. The basic histological structure as well as the epidermal ultrastructure of the camel nasal plane was observed to resemble very closely the common type. Few differences were found, including indistinct or absent hypodermal layer, thinner stratum corneum and some basal cells have unusual sinuous bases.

Effects of sphingolipid extracts on the morphological structure and lipid profile in an in vitro model of canine skin

Ceramides (CER) are essential sphingolipids of the stratum corneum (SC) that play an important role in maintaining cutaneous barrier function. Skin barrier defects occur in both human beings and dogs affected with atopic dermatitis, and have been associated with decreased CER concentrations and morphological alterations in the SC. The aim of the present study was to investigate the changes induced by three different sphingolipid extracts (SPE-1, SPE-2 and SPE-3) on the morphological structure and lipid composition of canine skin, using an in vitro model, whereby keratinocytes were seeded onto fibroblast-embedded collagen type I matrix at the air-liquid interface. Cell cultures were supplemented with SPE-1, SPE-2, SPE-3 or vehicle (control) for 14 days. The relative concentrations of lipids were determined by ultra-performance liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. The ultrastructural morphology of samples was examined by transmission electron microscopy. SPE-1 induced significant elevation in total CERs, CER[NS], CER[NDS], CER[NP], CER[AS], CER[AP], CER[EOS] and CER[EOP] subclasses, whereas SPE-2 induced a significant elevation in total CER, CER[AP] and CER[EOS] compared with control conditions. Ultrastructural analysis revealed an increase in lamellar-lipid structures in the SC of SPE-1-treated samples. The findings demonstrated that SPE-1 stimulates production of CERs, as shown by changes in lipid composition and ultrastructural morphology. Thus, SPE-1 contributes to the formation of a well-organised SC and represents a potential therapeutic target for improving skin barrier function in atopic dermatitis.

Producing human ceramide-NS by metabolic engineering using yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Ceramide is one of the most important intercellular components responsible for the barrier and moisture retention functions of the skin. Because of the risks involved with using products of animal origin and the low productivity of plants, the availability of ceramides is currently limited. In this study, we successfully developed a system that produces sphingosine-containing human ceramide-NS in the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae by eliminating the genes for yeast sphingolipid hydroxylases (encoded by SUR2 and SCS7) and introducing the gene for a human sphingolipid desaturase (encoded by DES1). The inactivation of the ceramidase gene YDC1, overexpression of the inositol phosphosphingolipid phospholipase C gene ISC1, and endoplasmic reticulum localization of the DES1 gene product resulted in enhanced production of ceramide-NS. The engineered yeast strains can serve as hosts not only for providing a sustainable source of ceramide-NS but also for developing further systems to produce sphingosine-containing sphingolipids.

A fermented barley and soybean formula enhances skin hydration

Skin hydration is one of the primary aims of beauty and anti-aging treatments. Barley (Hordeum vulgare) and soybean (Glycine max) are major food crops, but can also be used as ingredients for the maintenance of skin health. We developed a natural product-based skin treatment using a barley and soybean formula (BS) incorporating yeast fermentation, and evaluated its skin hydration effects as a dietary supplement in a clinical study. Participants ingested a placebo- (n = 33) or BS- (3 g/day) containing drink (n = 32) for 8 weeks. A significant increase in hydration in the BS group as compared to the placebo group was observed on the faces of subjects after 4 and 8 weeks, and on the forearm after 4 weeks. Decreases in stratum corneum (SC) thickness were also observed on the face and forearm. BS enhanced hyaluronan (HA) and skin barrier function in vitro and reduced Hyal2 expression in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF). BS also recovered ultraviolet (UV) B-induced downregulation of HA in HaCaT cells. These results suggest that BS has promising potential for development as a health functional food to enhance skin health.

Is "milk crust" a transient form of golden retriever ichthyosis?

BACKGROUND

A recessive inherited form of lamellar ichthyosis is well recognized in golden retrievers. In this breed, young puppies demonstrate a self-limiting scaling disorder which is commonly recognized by breeders, who use the term "milk crust" to describe this syndrome.

HYPOTHESIS/OBJECTIVES

To determine whether "milk crust" is a new keratinization disorder or a self-limiting form of golden retriever ichthyosis.

ANIMALS

A total of 179 golden retriever dogs (21 dams and 158 puppies) were examined.

METHODS

Dermatological examination and assessment of the patatin-like phospholipase-1 (PNPLA1) genotype by PCR testing of buccal mucosal swabs. Skin biopsies from one affected puppy were evaluated for histopathological abnormalities.

RESULTS

Forty-five of 158 (28%) puppies exhibited scaling at 8 weeks of age; 113 of 158 (72%) were dermatologically normal. Of 144 analysed samples, 40 of 144 (28%) puppies demonstrated a homozygous mutation of the PNPLA1 genotype [of which, 36 of 40 (90%) had signs of scaling], 77 of 144 (53%) demonstrated a heterozygous mutation and 27 of 144 (19%) were a normal wild-type. In six of 17 (35%) dams, a homozygous mutation of the PNPLA1 genotype was found, eight of 17 (47%) demonstrated a heterozygous mutation and three of 17 (18%) were normal wild-type. Dams with a homozygous mutation were clinically unaffected. A 1 year follow-up revealed that 23 of 28 (82%) puppies affected with this syndrome failed to develop typical signs of ichthyosis. In five of 28 (18%) dogs there was persistence of mild scaling.

CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL IMPORTANCE

We hypothesize that the clinical syndrome termed "milk crust" could represent a transient form of golden retriever ichthyosis. Remission is not fully linked to PNPLA1 genotype, suggesting that unknown factors may contribute to the clinical disease.

Canine epidermal lipid sampling by skin scrub revealed variations between different body sites and normal and atopic dogs

BACKGROUND

Previously, we evaluated a minimally invasive epidermal lipid sampling method called skin scrub, which achieved reproducible and comparable results to skin scraping. The present study aimed at investigating regional variations in canine epidermal lipid composition using the skin scrub technique and its suitability for collecting skin lipids in dogs suffering from certain skin diseases. Eight different body sites (5 highly and 3 lowly predisposed for atopic lesions) were sampled by skin scrub in 8 control dogs with normal skin. Additionally, lesional and non-lesional skin was sampled from 12 atopic dogs and 4 dogs with other skin diseases by skin scrub. Lipid fractions were separated by high performance thin layer chromatography and analysed densitometrically.

RESULTS

No significant differences in total lipid content were found among the body sites tested in the control dogs. However, the pinna, lip and caudal back contained significantly lower concentrations of ceramides, whereas the palmar metacarpus and the axillary region contained significantly higher amounts of ceramides and cholesterol than most other body sites. The amount of total lipids and ceramides including all ceramide classes were significantly lower in both lesional and non-lesional skin of atopic dogs compared to normal skin, with the reduction being more pronounced in lesional skin. The sampling by skin scrub was relatively painless and caused only slight erythema at the sampled areas but no oedema. Histological examinations of skin biopsies at 2 skin scrubbed areas revealed a potential lipid extraction from the transition zone between stratum corneum and granulosum.

CONCLUSIONS

The present study revealed regional variations in the epidermal lipid and ceramide composition in dogs without skin abnormalities but no connection between lipid composition and predilection sites for canine atopic dermatitis lesions. The skin scrub technique proved to be a practicable sampling method for canine epidermal lipids, revealed satisfying results regarding alterations of skin lipid composition in canine atopic dermatitis and might be suitable for epidermal lipid investigations of further canine skin diseases. Although the ceramide composition should be unaffected by the deeper lipid sampling of skin scrub compared to other sampling methods, further studies are required to determine methodological differences.

Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

The decisive role of the epidermis in maintaining body homeostasis prompted studies to evaluate the changes in epidermal structure and functionality over the lifetime. This development, along with the identification of molecular mechanisms of epidermal signaling, maintenance, and differentiation, points to a need for new therapeutic alternatives to treat and prevent skin aging. In addition to recovering age- and sun-compromised functions, proper treatment of the epidermis has important esthetic implications. This study reviews active ingredients capable of counteracting symptoms of epidermal aging, organized according to the regulation of specific age-affected epidermal functions: (1) several compounds, other than retinoids and derivatives, act on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, supporting the protective barrier against mechanical and chemical insults; (2) natural lipidic compounds, as well as glycerol and urea, are described as agents for maintaining water-ion balance; (3) regulation of immunological pathogen defense can be reinforced by natural extracts and compounds, such as resveratrol; and (4) antioxidant exogenous sources enriched with flavonoids and vitamin C, for example, improve solar radiation protection and epidermal antioxidant activity. The main objective is to provide a functional classification of active ingredients as regulatory elements of epidermal homeostasis, with potential cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.