Kinetics of moisturizing and firming effects of cosmetic formulations

Marine collagen: Unveiling the blue resource-extraction techniques and multifaceted applications

Marine organisms such as fish and shellfish are composed of compounds with properties and characteristics that have been proven useful in a variety of sectors such as cosmetics, healthcare (wound healing), food industries, and tissue engineering. Collagen extraction from fish waste as a "blue resource" has attracted research attention over the past decade. Around 75 % of fish waste contains a high concentration of collagen. This has driven research in the conversion of these low-cost by-products into valuable products. Collagen extracted by acidic or/and enzymatic methods is gaining a lot of attention today due to its low cost and high yield. Fermentation and enzymatic hydrolysis stand out as one of the most environmentally sustainable and ecologically friendly methods for collagen extraction. Because of its great biocompatibility, excellent bioactivity, and low antigenicity, marine collagen is receiving more attention. Furthermore, collagen-derived peptides may exhibit interesting antioxidant activity, potent antihypertensive activity, and antimicrobial activity against different strains of bacteria. This review focuses on the advancements in extraction and detection methods of marine collagen, both from a technological and legislative standpoint, in addition to exploring its diverse range of application domains.

In Vivo Skin Hydrating Efficacy of Fish Collagen from Greenland Halibut as a High-Value Active Ingredient for Cosmetic Applications

The industrial processing of fish for food purposes also generates a considerable number of by-products such as viscera, bones, scales, and skin. From a value-added perspective, fish by-products can act also as raw materials, especially because of their collagen content (particularly in fish skin). Interestingly, the potential of marine collagen for cosmetic applications is enormous and, remarkably, the extraction of this protein from fish skins has been established for different species. Using this approach, we investigated the integration of marine collagen (COLRp_I) extracted from the skin of the Greenland halibut as an active ingredient in a cosmetic hydrogel formulation. In this study, extracts of marine collagen at concentrations up to 10 mg/mL showed a non-cytotoxic effect when cultured with fibroblast cells for 3 days. In addition, marine collagen extract, when incorporated into a cosmetic hydrogel formulation, met criterion A of ISO 11930:2019 regarding the efficacy of the preservative system (challenge test). In addition, the cosmetic formulations based on marine collagen at dosages of 0.1, 0.25 and 0.5% were tested in a clinical study on the skin of the forearms of 23 healthy volunteers, showing a sightly hydration effect, suggesting its potential for beauty applications. Moreover, this work illustrates that the circular economy concept applied to the fish processing industry can represent important benefits, at innovation, environmental and economic levels.

Potential Cosmetic Active Ingredients Derived from Marine By-Products

The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics.

Heterologous expression, fermentation strategies and molecular modification of collagen for versatile applications

Collagen is a kind of high macromolecular protein with unique tissue distribution and distinctive functions in the body. At present, most collagen products are extracted from the tissues and organs of mammals or marine fish. However, this method exhibits several disadvantages, including low efficiency and serious waste generation, which makes it difficult to meet the current market demand. With the rapid development of synthetic biology and the deepening of high-density fermentation technology, the collagen preparation by biosynthesis strategy emerges as the times require. Co-expression with the proline hydroxylase gene can solve the problem of non-hydroxylated collagen, but the yield may be affected. Therefore, improving the expression through molecular modification and dynamic regulation of synthesis is an entry point for future research. Due to the defects in certain properties of the natural collagen, modification of properties would be benefit for meeting the requirements of practical application. In this paper, in-depth investigations on recombinant expression, fermentation, and modification studies of collagen are conducted. Also, it summarizes the research progress of collagen in food, medicine, and beauty industry in recent years. Furthermore, the future development trend and application prospect of collagen are discussed, which would provide guidance for its preparation and application.

Seaweed-Based Molecules and Their Potential Biological Activities: An Eco-Sustainable Cosmetics

Amongst the countless marine organisms, seaweeds are considered as one of the richest sources of biologically active ingredients having powerful biological activities. Seaweeds or marine macroalgae are macroscopic multicellular eukaryotic photosynthetic organisms and have the potential to produce a large number of valuable compounds, such as proteins, carbohydrates, fatty acids, amino acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, etc. Since it is a prominent source of bioactive constituents, it finds diversified industrial applications viz food and dairy, pharmaceuticals, medicinal, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, etc. Moreover, seaweed-based cosmetic products are risen up in their demands by the consumers, as they see them as a promising alternative to synthetic cosmetics. Normally it contains purified biologically active compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweed ingredients that are useful in cosmeceuticals are known to be effective alternatives with significant benefits. Many seaweeds' species demonstrated skin beneficial activities, such as antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, antiaging, photoprotection, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer and antioxidant properties, as well as certain antimicrobial activities, such as antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral activities. This review presents applications of bioactive molecules derived from marine algae as a potential substitute for its current applications in the cosmetic industry. The biological activities of carbohydrates, proteins, phenolic compounds and pigments are discussed as safe sources of ingredients for the consumer and cosmetic industry.

Bioactive substances and potentiality of marine microalgae

Microalgae is one of the most important components in the aquatic ecosystem, and they are increasingly used in food and medicine production for human consumption due to their rapid growth cycle and survival ability in the harsh environment. Now, the exploration of microalgae has been gradually deepening, mainly focused on the field of nutrition, medicine, and cosmetics. A great deal of studies has shown that microalgae have a variety of functions in regulating the body health and preventing disease, such as nitrogen fixation, antitumor, antivirus, antioxidation, anti-inflammatory, and antithrombotic. Furthermore, microalgae can synthesize various high-valued bioactive substances, such as proteins, lipids, polysaccharides, and pigments. In this paper, we have briefly reviewed the research progress of main bioactive components in microalgae, proteins, lipids, polysaccharides, pigments, and other nutrients included, as well as their present application situation. This paper can provide the guidance for research and development of industrial production of microalgae.

From Waste to Product: Circular Economy Applications from Sea Urchin

The classic linear economy model based on extraction, processing, production and waste no longer seems to be functional in a world where natural resources are starting to run out. For these reasons, the aim of this study is to analyse the transition from a linear system to the circular economy, providing an example of reuse of sea urchin waste for the creation of new eco-sustainable products. From a comprehensive literature review, it is provided a framework of all the properties deriving from marine collagen and other inedible parts of the sea urchin. Thanks to its characteristics, marine collagen is a valid support for production of biomedical devices, dermal implants, cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. To make their core business effective, companies should not consider only the financial perspectives but also the social and environmental aspects. Therefore, this work aims at analysing these three frameworks using the Triple-Layered Business Model Canvas, which is a useful tool to support the creative exploration of sustainable and innovative business models. The reuse of sea urchin waste is a clear example of how a circular economy model can be adopted for companies to be successful. Through this virtuous model, they can be projected towards a green economy based on a more eco-sustainable vision.

Enigmatic Microalgae from Aeroterrestrial and Extreme Habitats in Cosmetics: The Potential of the Untapped Natural Sources

With the increasing demand for natural and safe products in cosmetics, algae with their diverse and valuable bioactive compounds are gaining vital importance. Until now, cosmetics have focused mainly on the use of freshwater and marine algae. However, algae are not restricted to aquatic habitats. They are found in essentially every type of aeroterrestrial and extreme environment on the Earth. There, they have to cope with harsh ecological conditions and have developed special strategies to thrive in these inimical habitats. Although not thoroughly studied, their adaptations include protective biochemical compounds which can find their application or are already used in the field of cosmetics. With proper cultivation techniques, algae from these habitats can provide novel sources of high-value functional products for the cosmetics industry, which have the advantage of being obtained in eco-friendly and cost-effective processes. However, it has to be considered that a few aeroterrestrial and extremophilic algae can be toxin producers, and in order to ensure conformity to the safe quality standards, all new ingredients must be properly tested. The aim of the present review is to unveil the hidden and underestimated potential of the enigmatic algae of aeroterrestrial and extreme habitats for the rapidly developing modern cosmetic industries.

Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation

Antioxidants are molecules that delay or inhibit the oxidation of other molecules. Its use significantly increased in recent years in the diet of people. Natural antioxidants are replacing the use of synthetic antioxidant ingredients due to their safety, nutritional, and therapeutic values. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is a popular ingredient considered to be an antioxidant. This low molecular weight protein has been widely utilized due to its excellent biocompatibility, easy biodegradability, and weak antigenicity. It is a safe cosmetic biomaterial with good moisturizing properties on the skin. The antioxidant properties of HC are conditioned to the size of the molecule: the lower the molecular weight of peptides, the greater the ability to donate an electron or hydrogen to stabilize radicals. The antioxidant capacity of HC is mostly due to the presence of hydrophobic amino acids in the peptide. The exact mechanism of peptides acting as antioxidants is not clearly known but some aromatic amino acids and histidine are reported to play an important role in the antioxidant activity. Oral ingestion of HC increases the levels of collagen-derived peptides in the blood torrent and improves the skin properties such as elasticity, skin moisture, and transepidermal water loss. Additionally, daily intakes of HC protect the skin against UV melasma, enhances the fibroblast production and extracellular matrix of the skin. HC has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin. It reduces the effects of skin aging (dryness, laxity, and wrinkles). The use of HC as a principal ingredient in safe formulations for skin protection was reviewed and compared when it is used by topical and/or oral administration.

Beneficial Effects of Marine Algae-Derived Carbohydrates for Skin Health

Marine algae are considered to be an abundant sources of bioactive compounds with cosmeceutical potential. Recently, a great deal of interest has focused on the health-promoting effects of marine bioactive compounds. Carbohydrates are the major and abundant constituent of marine algae and have been utilized in cosmetic formulations, as moisturizing and thickening agents for example. In addition, marine carbohydrates have been suggested as promising bioactive biomaterials for their various properties beneficial to skin, including antioxidant, anti-melanogenic and skin anti-aging properties. Therefore, marine algae carbohydrates have potential skin health benefits for value-added cosmeceutical applications. The present review focuses on the various biological capacities and potential skin health benefits of bioactive marine carbohydrates.

Physicochemical Properties and Biocompatibility Evaluation of Collagen from the Skin of Giant Croaker (Nibea japonica)

Collagen and collagen peptides are widely used as cosmetic ingredients. In the present study, acid-solubilized collagen (ASC) and pepsin-solubilized collagen (PSC) were extracted from giant croaker (Nibea japonica) skin. The proline hydroxylation rates of ASC and PSC were 38.1% and 39.3%. The denaturation temperatures (T_d) were approximately 34.5 °C for both ASC and PSC. The results of sodium dodecyl sulfate-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE) and fourier transform infrared spetroscopy (FTIR) demonstrated that ASC and PSC were mainly type I collagen. Furthermore, As, Pb and Hg contents in the extracted collagen were lower than the national standards of China. In addition, collagen had good moisture absorption and retention properties when compared to glycerol. The collagen was also not cytotoxic to NIH-3T3 fibroblast cells, indicating that Nibea japonica skin collagen can be utilized in cosmetic applications.

Applications for Marine Resources in Cosmetics

Marine resources represent an interesting source of active ingredients for the cosmetics industry. Algae (macro and micro) are rich in proteins, amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins (A, B, and C) and oligo-elements such as copper, iron and zinc. All those active principles play roles in hydration, firming, slimming, shine and protection. Marine organisms inhabit a wide spectrum of habitats. Photo-protective compounds can be obtained from organisms subjected to strong light radiation, such as in tropical systems or in shallow water. In the same way, molecules with antioxidant potential can be obtained from microorganisms inhabiting extreme systems such as hydrothermal vents. For example, marine bacteria collected around deep-sea hydrothermal vents produce complex and innovative polysaccharides in the laboratory which are useful in cosmetics. There are many properties that will be put forward by the cosmetic industries.

Marine Fish Proteins and Peptides for Cosmeceuticals: A Review

Marine fish provide a rich source of bioactive compounds such as proteins and peptides. The bioactive proteins and peptides derived from marine fish have gained enormous interest in nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical industries due to their broad spectrum of bioactivities, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-aging activities. Recently, the development of cosmeceuticals using marine fish-derived proteins and peptides obtained from chemical or enzymatical hydrolysis of fish processing by-products has increased rapidly owing to their activities in antioxidation and tissue regeneration. Marine fish-derived collagen has been utilized for the development of cosmeceutical products due to its abilities in skin repair and tissue regeneration. Marine fish-derived peptides have also been utilized for various cosmeceutical applications due to their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and matrix metalloproteinase inhibitory activities. In addition, marine fish-derived proteins and hydrolysates demonstrated efficient anti-photoaging activity. The present review highlights and presents an overview of the current status of the isolation and applications of marine fish-derived proteins and peptides. This review also demonstrates that marine fish-derived proteins and peptides have high potential for biocompatible and effective cosmeceuticals.

Botanicals With Dermatologic Properties Derived From First Nations Healing: Part 2-Plants and Algae

INTRODUCTION

Plants and algae have played a central role in the treatment of skin conditions in both traditional First Nations healing and in modern dermatology. The objective of this study was to examine the evidence supporting the dermatological use of seaweed, witch hazel, bearberry, and mayapple.

METHODS

Four plants and algae used in traditional First Nations treatments of skin disease were selected based on expert recommendations. Several databases were searched to identify relevant citations without language restrictions.

RESULTS

Seaweed has potential clinical use in the treatment of acne and wrinkles and may be incorporated into biofunctional textiles. Witch hazel is an effective and well-tolerated treatment of inflammation and diaper dermatitis. Bearberry leaves contain arbutin, a skin-lightening agent that is an alternative for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Mayapple contains podophyllotoxin, a treatment for condyloma accuminata, molluscum contagiosum, and recalcitrant palmoplantar warts.

DISCUSSION

Common plants and algae are replete with bioactive agents that may have beneficial effects on the skin. Further research will open the door to new and innovative products in the future. Limitations of this study include that the scope of our study is limited to 4 plants and algae, a small sample of the breadth of plants used by First Nations for dermatological treatments.

Marine origin collagens and its potential applications

Collagens are the most abundant high molecular weight proteins in both invertebrate and vertebrate organisms, including mammals, and possess mainly a structural role, existing different types according with their specific organization in distinct tissues. From this, they have been elected as one of the key biological materials in tissue regeneration approaches. Also, industry is constantly searching for new natural sources of collagen and upgraded methodologies for their production. The most common sources are from bovine and porcine origin, but other ways are making their route, such as recombinant production, but also extraction from marine organisms like fish. Different organisms have been proposed and explored for collagen extraction, allowing the sustainable production of different types of collagens, with properties depending on the kind of organism (and their natural environment) and extraction methodology. Such variety of collagen properties has been further investigated in different ways to render a wide range of applications. The present review aims to shed some light on the contribution of marine collagens for the scientific and technological development of this sector, stressing the opportunities and challenges that they are and most probably will be facing to assume a role as an alternative source for industrial exploitation.

The skin landscape in diabetes mellitus. Focus on dermocosmetic management

Background

Some relationships are established between diabetes mellitus (DM) and a series of cutaneous disorders. Specific dermatoses are markers for undiagnosed DM. Other disorders represent supervening complications in an already treated DM patient.

Objective

To review the information about dermocosmetic care products and their appropriate use in the management and prevention of dermatoses related to DM.

Method

The peer-reviewed literature and empiric findings are covered. Owing to the limited clinical evidence available for the use of dermocosmetics, a review of the routine practices and common therapies in DM-related dermatoses was conducted.

Results

Some DM-related dermatoses (acanthosis nigricans, pigmented purpuric dermatosis) are markers of macrovascular complications. The same disorders and some others (xerosis, Dupuytren’s disease) have been found to be more frequently associated with microangiopathy. Other skin diseases (alopecia areata, vitiligo) were found to be markers of autoimmunity, particularly in type 1 DM. Unsurprisingly, using dermocosmetics and appropriate skin care has shown objective improvements of some DM-related dermatoses, such effects improve the quality of life. The most common skin manifestations of DM fall along continuum between “dry skin,” xerosis, and acquired ichthyosis, occurring predominately on the shins and feet. Dermocosmetic products improve the feeling of well-being for DM patients.