Cosmeceutical Peptides

Evaluation of the anti-aging potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline in cosmetics

Acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline, a commercialized bio-active peptide, is widely used in anti-wrinkle formulations. Volunteer-based tests have demonstrated that topical application of products containing acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline significantly reduces the visibility of stretch marks. However, there is still a lack of research dedicated to systematically and holistically evaluating its cosmetic properties and elucidating its mechanisms of action. In this study, we assessed the cosmetic potential of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline using human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and mouse embryonic fibroblasts (3T3). Our findings reveal that acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline exhibits anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities in skin cells, particularly effective against the inflammatory markers cyclooxygenase-2 (COX2), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β) and interleukin-6 (IL-6), and the extent of inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production ranged from 95 % to 340 %. Moreover, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline specifically up-regulates Collagen IV and down-regulates matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP9), enhances the expression of skin barrier proteins transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) and filaggrin (FLG), thereby demonstrating its reparative capabilities. Additionally, acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline increases the expression of the water channel protein aquaporin 3 (AQP3), thus improving skin hydration function. These results substantiate the previously proclaimed cosmetic attributes of acetyl tripeptide-30 citrulline and support its efficacy as an anti-aging agent in dermatological applications.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Complications and Adverse Effects of Periocular Aesthetic Treatments

The popularity and variety of temporary and permanent periocular aesthetic treatments has increased over the past decade. Patients frequently present to eye clinics with ocular complications and side effects following these treatments, their severity ranging from ocular irritation from dry eyes to visual loss from vascular occlusion. A careful, thorough history is essential, as many patients may not associate aesthetic procedures with ocular complications, and some may be embarrassed to disclose this information. All ophthalmologists should understand the potential ocular sequelae of these treatments and be able to initiate treatment in sight-threatening cases. Wesummarises the current literature on ophthalmic complications of the most common periocular aesthetic treatments.

Physico-chemical characterization of formulations containing endomorphin-2 derivatives

In this study semisolid formulations containing AcYPFF (N-acetyl-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂) tetrapeptide were obtained and characterized in terms of rheology, stability by multiple light scattering and particle size distribution by laser diffraction. Additionally, the release studies of tetrapeptide from formulations obtained were performed. The influence of different factors such as semisolid and membrane type on tetrapeptide release rate was examined. The release experiments of tetrapeptide modified with palmitoyl group (PalmYPFF) were also carried out. The results proved that formulation type and its rheological properties strongly determined the permeation process of the tetrapeptide. The fastest release of tetrapeptide was observed from hydrogel that had the lowest viscosity. The kinetic data of tetrapeptide released from oil-in-water (o/w) and water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions prepared at elevated temperature showed good fit to the Higuchi equation, whereas when AcYPFF was released from oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion prepared with the addition of auto-emulsifier high linearity with Korsmeyer–Peppas model was observed. While when tetrapeptide was released from Hydrogel the most suitable model was the first-order kinetics. It was suggested that mechanism that led to the release of tetrapeptide from all formulations was non-Fickian diffusion transport. The presence of palmitoyl group changed the solubility of tetrapeptide both in formulation and receptor fluid and thus the release rate of active compound was modified.

An Artificial Neural Network Based Analysis of Factors Controlling Particle Size in a Virgin Coconut Oil-Based Nanoemulsion System Containing Copper Peptide

A predictive model of a virgin coconut oil (VCO) nanoemulsion system for the topical delivery of copper peptide (an anti-aging compound) was developed using an artificial neural network (ANN) to investigate the factors that influence particle size. Four independent variables including the amount of VCO, Tween 80: Pluronic F68 (T80:PF68), xanthan gum and water were the inputs whereas particle size was taken as the response for the trained network. Genetic algorithms (GA) were used to model the data which were divided into training sets, testing sets and validation sets. The model obtained indicated the high quality performance of the neural network and its capability to identify the critical composition factors for the VCO nanoemulsion. The main factor controlling the particle size was found out to be xanthan gum (28.56%) followed by T80:PF68 (26.9%), VCO (22.8%) and water (21.74%). The formulation containing copper peptide was then successfully prepared using optimum conditions and particle sizes of 120.7 nm were obtained. The final formulation exhibited a zeta potential lower than -25 mV and showed good physical stability towards centrifugation test, freeze-thaw cycle test and storage at temperature 25°C and 45°C.

The beneficial effects of honeybee-venom serum on facial wrinkles in humans

Facial wrinkles are an undesirable outcome caused by extrinsic photodamage and intrinsic aging processes. Currently, no effective strategies are known to prevent facial wrinkles. We assessed the beneficial effects of bee-venom serum on the clinical signs of aging skin. Our results show that bee-venom serum treatment clinically improved facial wrinkles by decreasing total wrinkle area, total wrinkle count, and average wrinkle depth. Therefore, bee-venom serum may be effective for the improvement of skin wrinkles.

Stem cells and aberrant signaling of molecular systems in skin aging

The skin is the body's largest organ and it is able to self-repair throughout an individual's life. With advanced age, skin is prone to degenerate in response to damage. Although cosmetic surgery has been widely adopted to rejuvinate skin, we are far from a clear understanding of the mechanisms responsible for skin aging. Recently, adult skin-resident stem/progenitor cells, growth arrest, senescence or apoptotic death and dysfunction caused by alterations in key signaling genes, such as Ras/Raf/MEK/ERK, PI3K/Akt-kinases, Wnt, p21 and p53, have been shown to play a vital role in skin regeneration. Simultaneously, enhanced telomere attrition, hormone exhaustion, oxidative stress, genetic events and ultraviolet radiation exposure that result in severe DNA damage, genomic instability and epigenetic mutations also contribute to skin aging. Therefore, cell replacement and targeting of the molecular systems found in skin hold great promise for controlling or even curing skin aging.

Tannase-converted green tea catechins and their anti-wrinkle activity in humans

BACKGROUND

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract with high antioxidant activity by tannase treatment. Increases in gallic acid (GA), (-)-epigallocatechin (EGC), and (-)-epicatechin (EC) were observed in the green tea extract after tannase treatment.

OBJECTIVES

This study was performed to investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of topical applications of green tea extract exhibiting high antioxidant activity after tannase treatment.

METHODS

Subjects, randomly divided into two groups, received the application of either tannase-converted green tea extract (TGE) or normal green tea extract (NGE) on their crow's feet for 8 weeks. The anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) self-assessment; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (R(a), R(z), and R(t) value) using skin replica and Skin-Visiometer SV 600.

RESULTS

The scavenging abilities of TGE against radicals were significantly higher compared to NGE. The evaluation of skin wrinkle index values after 8 weeks of treatment showed that reductions of R(a), R(z), and R(t) values in the TGE group were significantly greater than in the NGE group, which indicated that tannase treatment improved the anti-wrinkle effects of green tea extract. According to the overall ratings for wrinkle treatment by applying the formulations, most of the TGE group (63.60%) reported marked or moderate improvement in wrinkles compared with only 36.30% of the NGE group.

CONCLUSION

Tannase treatment can improve the antioxidant activity of green tea extract, conferring anti-wrinkle activities. These results suggest that TGE may have beneficial properties as an anti-wrinkle agent.

The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study

BACKGROUND

Argireline is a synthetic peptide that is patterned from the N-terminal end of the protein SNAP-25 and has been shown to reduce the degree of facial wrinkles. It is reported to inhibit vesicle docking by preventing formation of the ternary SNARE complex and by interfering in catecholamine release. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline has not been studied in Chinese subjects.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the study was to evaluate the safety and efficacy of argireline in the treatment of peri-orbital wrinkles in Chinese subjects.

METHODS

A total of 60 subjects received a randomized treatment of argireline or placebo in a ratio of 3:1. Argireline or placebo was applied to their peri-orbital wrinkles twice daily for 4 weeks, and then evaluations were made for the improvements in wrinkles. In the subjective evaluation, Daniell's classification and Seeman's standard were applied to make a global assessment of changes in the appearance of peri-orbital lines. In the objective evaluation, silicone replicas of the skin at the application area were made before and after the treatment, which were analyzed by a wrinkle-analysis apparatus.

RESULTS

In the subjective evaluation, the total anti-wrinkle efficacy in the argireline group was 48.9 %, compared with 0 % in the placebo group. In the objective evaluation, the parameters of roughness were all decreased in the argireline group (p < 0.01), while no decrease was obvious in the placebo group (p > 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

This study showed that argireline had a significant anti-wrinkle effect in Chinese subjects.

The anti-wrinkle efficacy of Argireline

BACKGROUND

Argireline, a synthetic peptide, which is patterned from the N-terminal end of the protein SNAP-25, can both reduce the degree of existing facial wrinkles and demonstrate effectively against their development. In our past studies, we found out that Argireline had a significant anti-wrinkle effect in Chinese subjects and that it was safe and well tolerated.

OBJECTIVE

To observe the effect of Argireline on histological changes in the skin in the aged mice induced by D-galactose.

METHODS

Argireline was applied to the aged mice twice daily for 6 weeks. The histological changes in skin tissue were evaluated using hematoxylin-eosin (HE) and picrosirius-polarization (PSP) stains. The amount of type I and of type III collagen fibers were also semi-quantitatively compared using software Image-ProPlus.

RESULTS

There was an improvement in the histological structure of skin tissue in the aged mice; the amount of type I collagen fibers increased (P < 0.01), while that of type III collagen fibers decreased (P < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

This study revealed that Argireline could improve the histological structure of skin tissue and rejuvenate the aging skin.

Synthesis of α-collagen fragments and research of their influence on the degree of hydration of a model of epidermis

INTRODUCTION

In recent years the interest into areas of science, such as cosmetology, dermatology, pharmacology or aesthetic medicine has increased significantly. Scientists are more frequently looking for ingredients that affect the skin's condition and slow down the aging process. Practically every year, the scientists discover a number of new chemical substances (both natural and synthetic) that can be potentially used to manufacture cosmetics.

AIM

To evaluate the influence of selected peptides derived from α-collagen fragments on the degree of hydration of a model of epidermis isolated from a pig.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The synthesis of selected cosmetic oligopeptides were performed manually, on the solid medium, using procedure of SPPS (solid phase peptide synthesis). Following components: aqua, carbomer, glycerine, phenonip, D-panthenol, dimethicone and triethanolamine were used to prepare a reference hydrogel masks. Both the number of components and the composition of hydrogels have been developed individually for the purposes of this research. For this study the skin from a domestic pig was used. The degree of the skin hydration was measured with the SKINTEST plus camera, which uses the latest semiconductor technology.

RESULTS

During the study the absorption of hydrogels with peptides was faster than that of the reference hydrogel mask. The combination of hydrophilic properties of the peptide with hydrophobic properties of Palm enabled receiving an amphiphilic structure. Such molecules are considered to be able to penetrate the corneum barrier with the greatest ease.

CONCLUSIONS

The results showed that the modified compounds have contributed to water retention in the cells, thereby increasing the degree of hydration of the biological material.

Determination of Hexapeptide ALA-ASP-LEU-LYS-PRO-THR by MALDI MS

The hexapeptide ALA-ASP-LEU-LYS-PRO-THR is currently widely used as an active ingredient in commercially available creams. Therefore, the proper analytical procedure to detect this compound is a very important issue. This paper presents the determination of the hexapeptide in solution and in cosmetic formulations by matrix assisted laser desorption ionisation mass spectrometry. We developed a procedure for the selective binding of the low molecular weight peptide by using a two-component matrix which enabled us to characterize the hexapeptide directly without any initial processing. Furthermore, the extensive computer simulations were carried out to assist in this analysis of the MS spectra.

Characterization of protein hydrolysates of cosmetic use by CE-MS

Protein hydrolysates have been used as active principles in cosmetic products conferring different properties to the final formulations, which are mostly controlled by the peptide size and its amino acid sequence. In this work, capillary electrophoresis coupled to mass spectrometry analyses were carried out in order to investigate such characteristics of protein hydrolysates. Samples of different origins (milk, soy and rice) were obtained from a local company, and were analyzed without a previous preparation step. The background electrolyte (BGE) and sheath liquid compositions were optimized for each sample. The best BGE composition (860 mmol/L formic acid--pH 1.8--in 70:30 v/v water/methanol hydro-organic solvent) was chosen based on the overall peak resolution whereas the best sheath liquid was selected based on increased sensitivity and presented different compositions to each sample (10.9-217 mmol/L formic acid in 75:25-25:75 v/v water/methanol hydro-organic solvent). Most of the putative peptides in the hydrolysate samples under investigation presented molecular masses of 1000 Da or less. De novo sequencing was carried out for some of the analytes, revealing the hydrophobicity/polarity of the peptides. Hence, the technique has proved to be an advantageous tool for the quality control of industrial protein hydrolysates.

Skin peptides: biological activity and therapeutic opportunities

The skin provides an effective barrier to the loss of body fluids and environmental assault. In addition to the physical barrier provided by the stratum corneum, the skin also contains a chemical barrier consisting of antimicrobial peptides (AMPs), which control microbial growth on the surface. These AMPs also have multiple roles as mediators of inflammation with effects on epithelial and inflammatory cells, influencing cell proliferation, wound healing, cytokine/chemokine production and chemotaxis. This review describes the range of peptides found in the skin, both constitutive and those induced in response to injury. The role these peptides play in normal skin function and in various skin conditions is described. A better understanding of their role in normal and skin disease may offer new strategies in skin disease, dermatology and as cosmeceuticals.

Cosmeceuticals

The aging population and a desire to maintain a youthful appearance have propelled the recent surge in the U.S. cosmeceuticals market. The rapidly growing number of products claiming to diminish fine lines and wrinkles, decrease redness, smooth texture, and fade discoloration has lead to much confusion and misinformation among dermatologists and consumers alike. Cosmeceuticals can be a useful adjunct to prescription medications and office procedures. Therefore, it behooves us as dermatologists to understand the science behind these products to better educate ourselves and our patients. We present an update of the following categories of cosmeceuticals: antioxidants, growth factors, peptides, anti-inflammatories/botanicals, polysaccharides, and pigment-lightening agents.