Update on photoprotection

Toxicokinetics of 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) and its seven metabolites in humans after controlled single dermal exposure to EHS

The chemical UV filter 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) is used in various personal-care products. The dermal and oral metabolism of EHS have already been targeted by different studies. However, toxicokinetic data after a single dermal exposure to EHS was missing. In our study, three volunteers were dermally exposed to a commercial EHS-containing sunscreen for 9 h with an application dose of 2 mg sunscreen per cm2 body surface area. The exposure was performed indoors, and sunscreen was applied on about 75% of the total skin area. Complete urine voids were collected over 72 h and eight blood samples were drawn from each subject. Urine samples were analyzed for EHS and seven known metabolites (5OH-EHS, 4OH-EHS, 2OH-EHS, 6OH-EHS, 4oxo-EHS, 5oxo-EHS, and 5cx-EPS) by online-SPE UPLC MS/MS. The peaks of urinary elimination occurred 10-11 h after application. The elimination half-lives (Phase 1) were between 6.6 and 9.7 h. The dominant urinary biomarkers were EHS itself, followed by 5OH-EHS, 5cx-EPS, 5oxo-EHS, and 4OH-EHS. 2OH-EHS, 6OH-EHS, and 4oxo-EHS were detected only in minor amounts. An enhanced analysis of conjugation species revealed marginal amounts of unconjugated metabolites and up to 40% share of sulfate conjugates for 5OH-EHS, 5oxo-EHS, and 5cx-EPS. The results demonstrated a delayed systemic resorption of EHS via the dermal route. Despite an extensive metabolism, the parent compound occurred as main urinary parameter. The delayed dermal resorption as well as the slow elimination of EHS indicate an accumulation up to toxicological relevant doses during daily repeated dermal application to large skin areas.

Comprehensive assessment of the UV-filter 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and its phase I/II metabolites in urine by extended enzymatic hydrolysis and on-line SPE LC-MS/MS

2-ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS) is used as a UV filter in personal-care products, such as sunscreen, to prevent skin damage through UV radiation. The application of EHS-containing products leads to systemic EHS absorption, metabolization and excretion. To measure EHS and its corresponding metabolite levels in urine, a comprehensive analytical procedure based on an extended enzymatic hydrolysis, on-line-SPE, and UPLC-MS/MS was developed. The method covers a large profile of seven metabolites (including isomeric structures) as well as EHS itself in a run time only of 18 min. Easy sample preparation, consisting of a 2-h hydrolysis step, followed by on-line enrichment and purification, add to the efficiency of the method. An update, compared to a previous method for the determination of EHS and metabolites in urine, is that, during hydrolysis, both glucuronide and sulfate conjugates are considered. The method was furthermore applied to urine samples after a real-life exposure scenario to EHS-containing sunscreen. The method is highly sensitive with limits of detection ranging from 6 to 65 ng/L. Moreover, it is characterized by good precision data, accuracy, and robustness to matrix influences. Application of the method to urine samples following dermal exposure to an EHS-containing sunscreen revealed EHS as the main biomarker after dermal exposure, followed by the major biomarkers 5OH-EHS, 5cx-EPS, 4OH-EHS and 5oxo-EHS. The expansion and optimization of this method decisively contributes to the research on the dermal metabolism of EHS and can be applied in exposure studies and for human biomonitoring.

Ultraviolet Resistance of Microorganisms Isolated from Uranium-Rich Minerals from Perus, Brazil

The district of Perus, located in the city of São Paulo, Brazil, is renowned for its weathered granitic-pegmatitic masses, which harbor a significant number of uraniferous minerals that contribute to ionizing radiation levels up to 20 times higher than the background levels. In this study, aseptically collected mineral samples from the area were utilized to isolate 15 microorganisms, which were subjected to pre-screening tests involving UV-C and UV-B radiation. The microorganisms that exhibited the highest resistance to ultraviolet (UV) radiation were selected for the construction of survival curves for UV-C, broad-band UV-B, and solar simulation resistance testing. Subsequently, the four strains that demonstrated superior survival capabilities under UV radiation exposure were chosen for 16S rRNA gene sequencing. Among these, Nocardioides sp. O4R and Nocardioides sp. MA2R demonstrated the most promising outcomes in the UV radiation resistance assessments, showcasing comparable performance to the well-established radioresistant model organism Deinococcus radiodurans. These findings underscore the potential of naturally occurring high-radiation environments as valuable resources for the investigation of UV-resistant microorganisms. Astrobiology 24, 783-794.

Elucidating the Mechanism of Copper-Induced Photoluminescence Quenching in 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-Sulfonic Acid

To explore the possible impact of 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA) on the function of a sunscreen, in this work we investigate the binding of copper metal ions (Cu2+) to PBSA. Due to the existence of an intrinsic interaction phenomenon between Cu2+ ions and PBSA molecules, the photoluminescence (PL) quenching arises owing to the charge transfer from PBSA to Cu2+ ions. The mechanism of fluorescence quenching is probed experimentally following excitation at 306 nm by evaluating various quenching parameters with the help of the Stern-Volmer plot. Through the assessment of the values of the Stern-Volmer constant (K SV = 45.2 M - 1 ) and bimolecular quenching rate constant (k q = 0.77 × 10 10 M - 1 . s - 1 ), it is deduced that the dynamic mode of PL quenching is operative between PBSA and Cu2+ ions. We evaluate the number of binding sites (n = 1) that advocate the presence of a single binding site in PBSA for Cu2+ ions. The numerical value of standard Gibbs free energy change,Δ G o ~ -27.485 kJ.mol-1 implies the spontaneous binding between Cu2+ ions and PBSA molecules. The results obtained give an insight into the mechanism of metal-induced PL quenching of water soluble PBSA sunscreen.

The CNC-family transcription factor Nrf3 coordinates the melanogenesis cascade through macropinocytosis and autophagy regulation

Melanin is a pigment produced from the amino acid L-tyrosine in melanosomes. The CNC-family transcription factor Nrf3 is expressed in the basal layer of the epidermis, where melanocytes reside, but its melanogenic function is unclear. Here, we show that Nrf3 regulates macropinocytosis and autophagy to coordinate melanogenesis cascade. In response to an exogenous inducer of melanin production, forskolin, Nrf3 upregulates the core melanogenic gene circuit, which includes Mitf, Tyr, Tyrp1, Pmel, and Oca2. Furthermore, Nrf3 induces the gene expression of Cln3, an autophagosome-related factor, for melanin precursor uptake by macropinocytosis. Ulk2 and Gabarapl2 are also identified as Nrf3-target autophagosome-related genes for melanosome formation. In parallel, Nrf3 prompts autolysosomal melanosome degradation for melanocyte survival. An endogenous melanogenic inducer αMSH also activates Nrf3-mediated melanin production, whereas it is suppressed by an HIV-1 protease inhibitor, nelfinavir. These findings indicate the significant role of Nrf3 in the melanogenesis and the anti-melanogenic potential of nelfinavir.

Environmental impacts due to the use of sunscreen products: a mini-review

Sunscreen use has increased in recent years, as sunscreen products minimize the damaging effects of solar radiation. Active ingredients called ultraviolet (UV) filters or UV agents, either organic or inorganic, responsible for defending skin tissue against harmful UV rays, are incorporated in sunscreen formulations. UV agents have a serious impact on many members of bio communities, and they are transferred to the environment either directly or indirectly. Many organic UV filters are found to be accumulated in marine environments because of high values of the octanol/water partition coefficient. However, due to the fact that UV agents are not stable in water, unwanted by-products may be formed. Experimental studies or field observations have shown that organic UV filters tend to bioaccumulate in various aquatic animals, such as corals, algae, arthropods, mollusks, echinoderms, marine vertebrates. This review was conducted in order to understand the effects of UV agents on both the environment and marine biota. In vivo and in vitro studies of UV filters show a wide range of adverse effects on the environment and exposed organisms. Coral bleaching receives considerable attention, but the scientific data identify potential toxicities of endocrine, neurologic, neoplastic and developmental pathways. However, more controlled environmental studies and long-term human use data are limited. Several jurisdictions have prohibited specific UV filters, but this does not adequately address the dichotomy of the benefits of photoprotection vs lack of eco-friendly, safe, and approved alternatives.

Prospecting In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties of Rosmarinic Acid in a Sunscreen System Developed by QbD Containing Octyl p-Methoxycinnamate and Bemotrizinol

Progressively growing diagnoses of skin cancer trigger public health concerns about excessive sun exposure, awareness of the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, and the proper use of sunscreens. Studies show that bioactive molecules, such as rosmarinic acid (RA), may potentiate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of topical formulations. This research presents the application of the concepts of quality by design (QbD) to evaluate the critical parameters of quality and the development of an optimized cosmetic formulation with RA by means of an understanding of product design space. Samples were developed using design of experiments (DoE) and they were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity and photoprotective efficacy, as well as for photostability through artificial irradiation. We were able to achieve the RA performance regarding antioxidant and SPF properties through in vitro experiments. We obtained the equations for predicting the in vitro antioxidant activity and SPF. Considering our sunscreen system, developed with octyl p-methoxycinnamate and bemotrizinol, the presence of RA increased its antioxidant capacity; however, the in vitro SPF was reduced when both UV filters were used. The development of multifunctional sunscreens is of utmost importance; moreover, there is a need for the rational development of formulations that ensure representative statistical tests of the effects and interactions among the components of a formulation on the desired critical quality attributes, including efficacy.

In Vitro Assessment of Sunscreen Efficacy Using Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy on Synthetic Skin

Although there are several methods for assessing the sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreen products, there is no standard and reliable in vitro method. Each test entails limitations and drawbacks. Therefore, this study aimed to assess the employability of FTIR as an alternative and quick method to evaluate the efficacy of various sunscreen formulations, their concentrations, and the timing of their application. Infrared radiation has longer wavelengths than ultraviolet, penetrates deeply into the skin, and hence enables the understanding of sunscreens' ability to block the transmission of radiation. The FTIR transmission using synthetic skin to study the effect of sunscreen agents (oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide (TiO₂), and zinc oxide (ZnO)) was conducted in the range 450-4000cm^-1. Comparison studies were made at the peak of 805cm^-1. After 2 h of sunscreen application, using the maximum concentrations, the FTIR peak at wavenumber 805cm^-1 demonstrated a significant reduction of transmission from 96.55 to 60.09%, 57.59%, 32.02%, and 37.1% for oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, TiO₂, and ZnO respectively (P<0.05). A significant reduction in transmission was observed (P<0.05) with increasing sunscreen concentrations after 2 h of application. Nevertheless, the upper limit of concentration showed no appreciable change from the middle level of concentration, and hence it is cost-effective to employ the middle concentration. Inorganic sunscreens showed a higher protection level than organic. Fixed-dose combinations of sunscreens showed an enhanced effect yet were not synergistic. In conclusion, the use of FTIR spectroscopy with synthetic skin is a quick and user-friendly technique that enables the assessment of the efficacy of sunscreen formulations.

Experimental and Computational Analysis of Para-Hydroxy Methylcinnamate following Photoexcitation

Para-hydroxy methylcinnamate is part of the cinnamate family of molecules. Experimental and computational studies have suggested conflicting non-radiative decay routes after photoexcitation to its S₁(ππ*) state. One non-radiative decay route involves intersystem crossing mediated by an optically dark singlet state, whilst the other involves direct intersystem crossing to a triplet state. Furthermore, irrespective of the decay mechanism, the lifetime of the initially populated S₁(ππ*) state is yet to be accurately measured. In this study, we use time-resolved ion-yield and photoelectron spectroscopies to precisely determine the S₁(ππ*) lifetime for the s-cis conformer of para-hydroxy methylcinnamate, combined with time-dependent density functional theory to determine the major non-radiative decay route. We find the S₁(ππ*) state lifetime of s-cis para-hydroxy methylcinnamate to be ∼2.5 picoseconds, and the major non-radiative decay route to follow the [¹ππ*→¹nπ*→³ππ*→S₀] pathway. These results also concur with previous photodynamical studies on structurally similar molecules, such as para-coumaric acid and methylcinnamate.

Calcium-Based Biomineralization: A Smart Approach for the Design of Novel Multifunctional Hybrid Materials

Biomineralization consists of a complex cascade of phenomena generating hybrid nano-structured materials based on organic (e.g., polymer) and inorganic (e.g., hydroxyapatite) components. Biomineralization is a biomimetic process useful to produce highly biomimetic and biocompatible materials resembling natural hard tissues such as bones and teeth. In detail, biomimetic materials, composed of hydroxyapatite nanoparticles (HA) nucleated on an organic matrix, show extremely versatile chemical compositions and physical properties, which can be controlled to address specific challenges. Indeed, different parameters, including (i) the partial substitution of mimetic doping ions within the HA lattice, (ii) the use of different organic matrices, and (iii) the choice of cross-linking processes, can be finely tuned. In the present review, we mainly focused on calcium biomineralization. Besides regenerative medicine, these multifunctional materials have been largely exploited for other applications including 3D printable materials and in vitro three-dimensional (3D) models for cancer studies and for drug testing. Additionally, biomineralized multifunctional nano-particles can be involved in applications ranging from nanomedicine as fully bioresorbable drug delivery systems to the development of innovative and eco-sustainable UV physical filters for skin protection from solar radiations.

Selected Extracts from High Mountain Plants as Potential Sunscreens with Antioxidant Capacity

The photoprotective and antioxidant activities of extracts of six species of plants collected in a high mountain ecosystem at 3150 m.a.s.l. were evaluated. In vitro photoprotection according to UVA-UVB absorption spectrum, Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF), (critical wavelength) λ_c and UVA/UVB Ratio were assessed. Also, the antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH radical assay and the inhibition of lipid peroxidation in methyl linoleate (MeLo). Total anthocyanins content (TAC) and total polyphenolic content (TPC) were evaluated. Among the extracts evaluated, the extract of B. antioquensis, an endemic plant of Colombia, showed a significant photoprotection against UVA-UVB range, with SPF values of 15 ± 2 and UVAPF of 7 ± 1, λ_c : 378, UVA/UVB Ratio: 0.78. Furthermore, this extract presented an excellent antioxidant activity, with EC₅₀ of 0.17 ± 0.04 g of dry extract/mmol DPPH, a value of TPC of 464 ± 9 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g dry extract and significant inhibition of MeLo peroxidation. The results suggest that the extract of B. antioquensis has the best quality to be a source of new UV filters, with a broad spectrum of protection and antioxidant properties.

Analysis of immediate use of sunscreen after microneedling

INTRODUCTION

Microneedling promotes skin microlesions that lead to an inflammatory process, increasing cell proliferation, cell metabolism, and synthesis of collagen and elastin, therefore restoring skin integrity.

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to investigate the differences between the physical and the physical-chemical sunscreen application after microneedling, assessed through histological analysis.

METHOD

This was a two-phase study. The first phase investigated the physical and physical-chemical sunscreen penetration mixed with India ink through histological analysis. The sunscreens were applied after the microleakage in vivo on the skin of a volunteer who underwent abdominoplasty 24 hours after the procedure. Histological analyses were carried out using optical and electron microscopy. The second phase analysed the skin reactions with the use of physical sunscreen after different microneedling treatments. The sample consisted of 30 volunteers distributed into three groups: G1 received the "Roller" microneedling, G2 received pen micropuncture treatment, and G3 received the fractional radiofrequency treatment.

RESULTS

The histological analyses of the first phase indicated that the physical-chemical protection sunscreen penetrated more deeply, and pigment was found among the collagen fibres and the dermal fibroblast cytoplasm in comparison to the physical protection sunscreen, which had the pigment confined exclusively in the superficial epidermis layer. The second phase results demonstrated that the use of the physical protection sunscreen after the different microneedling techniques showed no adverse reactions such as itching, pain or soreness, and the hyperaemia.

CONCLUSION

The proposed intervention showed that the use of physical protection sunscreen after different microneedling procedures is safe.

Unplanned absorption of sunscreen ingredients: Impact of formulation and evaluation methods

Permeation of sunscreens agents reduces its effectiveness and safety, leading to systemic circulation and causing unknown adverse effects. In order to maintain the sunscreen efficacy and safety, the filters must stay on the skin surface, with minimum penetration through dermis. Even facing the possibility of filters permeation, the use of sunscreen is important to avoid skin damage as erythema, free-radicals formation, skin ageing and skin cancer, caused by ultraviolet radiation. Aiming potential side effects caused by topical absorption of sunscreens, studies are carried to improve formulation characteristics and stability, reduce skin permeation and evaluate sun protections factor (SPF). Current assays to detect the permeation of sunscreens involve in vivo or in vitro studies, to simulate physiological conditions of use. The aim of this review is to revisit sunscreen skin permeation data over the last decade and the factors that can enhance skin permeation or improve the sunscreen efficacy.

In vitro metabolism of sunscreen compounds by liquid chromatography/high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry

RATIONALE

Exposure to UV light can induce adverse effects on human health, such as photo-aging, immunosuppression, and cancer. Sunscreens are used to prevent the absorption of UV rays, but certain UV-filtering compounds have been shown to disrupt endocrine systems or act as carcinogens. To assess the effects of the exposure to such compounds, it is important to study the pathways by which they are biotransformed in the body.

METHODS

Liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution tandem mass spectrometry (LC/HRMS/MS) was employed to evaluate the oxidative metabolism and, specifically, the formation of reactive metabolites of six active ingredients commonly used in sunscreen formulations: oxybenzone, avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, octocrylene, and octinoxate. In vitro incubations were performed with human and rat liver microsomes in the presence of β-nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate and glutathione. An LC/HRMS/MS method was developed to identify metabolites employing a biphenyl reversed-phase column for separating parent molecules, metabolites, and glutathione (GSH) adducts.

RESULTS

Each tested compound resulted in the formation of several metabolites, including at least one GSH adduct. Compounds containing ester groups were hydrolyzed, and some metabolites of the free acid forms were also detected. High-resolution MS/MS data was crucial for the structural elucidation of metabolites and GSH adducts. Fragmentation pathways were proposed for all parent compounds, as well as each described metabolite and adduct.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of this study will help better understand the metabolism and detoxification pathways of these xenobiotics.

Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate

Homosalate has been found to exhibit favourable photophysics for inclusion in sunscreens, using a combination of spectroscopic and computational approaches.

Recent Trends of Sunscreen Cosmetic: An Update Review

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been demonstrated to cause skin disorders, including sunburn and relative symptoms of prolonged exposure. It has been reported that sunscreens have beneficial effects in reducing the incidence of skin disorders (sunburn, skin aging, and immunosuppression) through their ability to absorb, reflect, and scatter UV. Many commercial products have recently been manufactured from not only usual organic and inorganic UV filters, but also hybrid and botanical ingredients using typical formulations (emulsion, gel, aerosol, and stick). Particularly, these products have been supplemented with several preeminent properties to protect against the negative effects of not only UVB, but also UVA. However, the use of sunscreen has faced many challenges, including inducing photoallergic dermatitis, environment pollution, and deficiency of vitamin D production. Therefore, consumers should efficiently apply suitable products to improve sun protection. as well as to avoid the side effects of sunscreen.

Evaluation of In Vitro Solar Protection Factor (SPF), Antioxidant Activity, and Cell Viability of Mixed Vegetable Extracts from Dirmophandra mollis Benth, Ginkgo biloba L., Ruta graveolens L., and Vitis vinífera L

The aim of this study was to validate a HPLC method for the assay of flavonoids in extracts obtained from natural sources, i.e., from Dirmophandra mollis Benth, Ginkgo biloba L., Ruta graveolens L., and Vitis vinífera L. The potential sun protecting effect, antioxidant activity, and cell viability of the extracts were also determined. Individual extracts (obtained from each individual species) and a mixed extract (containing the four extracts) were analyzed by the validated HPLC method for the identification of flavonoids and quantification of rutin and quercetin. An in vitro cell viability study was carried out using the neutral red method. The in vitro sun protection factor was determined by spectral transmittance and in vitro antioxidant efficacy was evaluated against DPPH, ABTS, and AAPH radicals. The HPLC method used for the identification and quantification of flavonoids in extracts exhibited linearity, precision, accuracy, and robustness. Detection and quantification limits were, respectively, 2.881 ± 0.9 μg·mL^-1 and 0.864 ± 0.9 μg·mL^-1 for quercetin, and 30.09 ± 1 μg·mL^-1 and 9.027 ± 1.1 μg·mL^-1 for rutin. All extracts did not affect cell viability at the evaluated concentration range and exhibited a sun protection effect and antioxidant activity. Among the evaluated extracts, Ginkgo biloba L. and the mixed extract depicted the most expressive antioxidant activity. The mixed extract exhibited sunscreen protection against ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) and a critical wavelength of 372.7 ± 0.1. Our results translate the enhanced flavonoids' composition of the mixed extract, which may be a potential alternative over sunscreens and antioxidants in pharmaceutic/cosmetic formulations.

Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 °C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 μg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 μg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 μg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 μg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

Development and validation of an instrument to assess the knowledge of general practitioners and pediatricians about photoprotection and solar radiation

BACKGROUND

The knowledge of general practitioners about photoprotection is unknown.

OBJECTIVES

To develop and validate an instrument to evaluate the knowledge of general practitioners and pediatricians about photoprotection, gauging the knowledge of these professionals.

METHODS

The study followed the steps: (1) Literature identification and item elaboration related to the theme; (2) Content validation; (3) Apparent validation; (4) Construct validation: internal consistency analysis and discriminatory analysis; (5) Reliability analysis. In Step 4, the instrument was applied to 217 general practitioners and pediatricians who worked in the host city of the study; the scores were compared with dermatologists scores.

RESULTS

The final instrument had 41 items and showed satisfactory internal consistency (Cronbach's alpha=0.780), satisfactory reproducibility and good test-retest reliability (good-to-excellent kappa statistic in more than 60% of items). The discriminatory analysis registered a mean score of 54.1 points for dermatologists and 31.1 points for generalists and pediatricians, from a total of 82 possible points, representing a statistically significant difference (p<0.001). Generalists and pediatricians demonstrated an understanding of the relationship between excessive sun exposure and skin cancer, but they revealed lack of technical information necessary for their professional practice.

STUDY LIMITATIONS

The instrument evaluates only knowledge, without evaluating the conduct of the participants.

CONCLUSION

The results show that the instrument has good internal consistency and good reproducibility. It could be useful in the identification of general practitioners and pediatricians knowledge gaps on the subject, for the subsequent development of training and educational strategies.

In vitro solar protection factor, antioxidant activity, and stability of a topical formulation containing Benitaka grape (Vitis vinifera L.) peel extract

A flavonoid enriched extract (FE) was obtained from grape peels, and in vitro SPF, antioxidant activity, and effects on cell viability of this extract were tested with the intent to develop a cosmetic product. A formulation was developed with the FE, and the stability of this mixture was evaluated in terms of pH, density, viscosity, and SPF (90-days). FE showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes and an in vitro SPF of 18.56 (UV-spectrophotometry). Further, FE showed a UVA protection factor of 3.17 ± 0.2, a critical wavelength of 318.0 ± 0.1 and a UVA/UVB of 0.9. Antioxidant activity assays resulted in 92.08% and 86.85% of activity against DPPH and ABTS (IC₅₀ = 296.90 ± 1.2 µg/mL and 643.13 ± 0.9 µg/mL), respectively. Finally, SPF of formulation with FE was 12.45. Results from the in vitro SPF and product stability tests (especially storage under refrigeration), indicate that FE is a promising compound for use as an innovative sunscreen formulation.

Photoprotection: extending lessons learned from studying natural sunscreens to the design of artificial sunscreen constituents

Evolution has ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protection mechanisms against the potentially harmful effects of incident ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Tanning is one such mechanism in humans, but tanning only occurs post-exposure to UVR. Hence, there is ever growing use of commercial sunscreens to pre-empt overexposure to UVR. Key requirements for any chemical filter molecule used in such a photoprotective capacity include a large absorption cross-section in the UV-A and UV-B spectral regions and the availability of one or more mechanisms whereby the absorbed photon energy can be dissipated without loss of the molecular integrity of the chemical filter. Here we summarise recent experimental (mostly ultrafast pump-probe spectroscopy studies) and computational progress towards unravelling various excited state decay mechanisms that afford the necessary photostability in chemical filters found in nature and those used in commercial sunscreens. We also outline ways in which a better understanding of the photophysics and photochemistry of sunscreen molecules selected by nature could aid the design of new and improved commercial sunscreen formulations.

Assessment of the general quality of sunscreen products available in Palestine and method verification of the sun protection factor using Food and Drug Administration guidelines

BACKGROUND

Sunlight exposure affects all skin types causing skin tanning, burns or even skin cancer. Sunscreens were invented to prevent these outcomes by scattering or absorbing the UV light.

AIMS

This study aimed to verify the effectiveness of Mansur method in SPF measurement and to find out how much reliable the labeled sun protection factor (SPF) value for the products that are imported to Palestine knowing that they are considered as cosmetics and they don't undergo tests by the Ministry Of Health (MOH).

MATERIALS

In this research, sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for 16 commercially available sunscreen products using Mansur equation which was also validated; moreover sunscreen classification, product phase determination and pH measurement were also done.

RESULTS

Sun protection factor values were mostly 50, 43.75% of the analyzed samples were close to the labeled SPF, 31.25% were under the labeled value, and 25% SPF value above the labeled value. All samples exhibited a pH close to skin pH. 62% of them were found to be O/W. Cosmetic companies and importers should focus on pediatric sunscreens, since only 12.5% are pediatric sunscreens.

CONCLUSIONS

Ministry Of Health should ask prove about the quality of an SPF value of sunscreens for final registration of these products. More instructions should be available on the label regarding the proper use especially, if they are not water proof.

Microencapsulated sunblock nanoparticles based on zeolitic imidazole frameworks for safe and effective UV protection

Microencapsulation of UV filters into ZIFs could improve UV photoprotection and minimize the deleterious effects of UV filter transdermal absorption.

Stability Study of Sunscreens with Free and Encapsulated UV Filters Contained in Plastic Packaging

Sunscreens play a fundamental role in skin cancer prevention and in protection against photo-aging. UV filters are often photo-unstable, especially in relation to their vehicles and, being lipophilic substances, they are able to interact with plastic packaging. Finally, UV filter stability can be significantly affected by the routine use of the product at high temperatures. This work aims to study the stability of sunscreen formulations in polyethylene packaging. Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and octocrylene, both in a free form and as encapsulated filters were chosen as UV filters. Stability evaluations were performed both in the packaging and on the formulations. Moreover, a further two non-destructive techniques, near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and a multiple light scattering technique, were also used to evaluate the stability of the formulation. Results demonstrated clearly that all of the pack underwent significant changes in its elastic/plastic behavior and in external color after solar irradiation. From the evaluation of the extractable profile of untreated and treated packaging material an absorption of 2-phenoxyethanol and octocrylene were shown. In conclusion, the results highlighted clearly that a reduction of the UV filter in the formulation packed in high-density polyethylene/low-density polyethylene (HDPE/LDPE) material can occur over time, reducing the protective effect of the product when applied to the skin.

A Perspective on the Ultrafast Photochemistry of Solution-Phase Sunscreen Molecules

Sunscreens are one of the most common ways of providing on-demand additional photoprotection to the skin. Ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy has recently proven to be an invaluable tool in understanding how the components of commercial sunscreen products display efficient photoprotection. Important examples of how this technique has unravelled the photodynamics of common components are given in this Perspective, and some of the remaining unanswered questions are discussed.

Noninvasive Facial Rejuvenation. Part 1: Patient-Directed

A proper knowledge of noninvasive facial rejuvenation is integral to the practice of a cosmetic surgeon. Noninvasive facial rejuvenation can be divided into patient- versus physician-directed modalities. Patient-directed facial rejuvenation combines the use of facial products such as sunscreen, moisturizers, retinoids, α-hydroxy acids, and various antioxidants to both maintain youthful skin and rejuvenate damaged skin. Physicians may recommend and often prescribe certain products, but the patients are in control of this type of facial rejuvenation. On the other hand, physician-directed facial rejuvenation entails modalities that require direct physician involvement, such as neuromodulators, filler injections, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. With the successful integration of each of these modalities, a complete facial regimen can be established and patient satisfaction can be maximized. This article is the first in a three-part series describing noninvasive facial rejuvenation. The authors focus on patient-directed facial rejuvenation. It is important, however, to emphasize that even in a patient-directed modality, a physician's involvement through education and guidance is integral to its success.

Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens

Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.

Preparation of rutile TiO2@avobenzone composites for the further enhancement of sunscreen performance

It is well known that organic avobenzone and inorganic TiO₂ are applied to shield UVA and UVB, respectively.

Rutin increases critical wavelength of systems containing a single UV filter and with good skin compatibility

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is responsible for sunburns, skin cancer, photoaging, and the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The awareness on preventing these deleterious effects made the use of anti-UVB formulations an important part of population habits; however, despite the availability of several antioxidants capable of ROS scavenging, the pharmaceutical market lacks products associating UV filters with natural compounds of proven efficacy. Here, we investigated the effect of rutin, a flavonoid with antioxidant activity, associated with UVB filters in dermocosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Formulations were assessed through its antioxidant activity, in vitro photoprotective effectiveness, photostability, and in vivo skin tolerance (hydration, transepidermal water loss, and erythema).

RESULTS

Samples containing rutin were compatible with the human skin and presented a pronounced antioxidant potential, with scavenging activity values 75% higher than the ones containing only UVB filters. Although rutin could not prevent the sunscreens photodegradation post-irradiation, the bioactive compound significantly increased the formulations critical wavelengths, showing a photoprotective gain, especially in the UVA range.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the absorption in the UVA range, coupled with ROS scavenging potential, proved the positive effect of rutin applied to anti-UVB formulations, making this bioactive compound a promising candidate for photoprotection improvement.

Brazilian consensus on photoprotection

Brazil is a country of continental dimensions with a large heterogeneity of climates and massive mixing of the population. Almost the entire national territory is located between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn, and the Earth axial tilt to the south certainly makes Brazil one of the countries of the world with greater extent of land in proximity to the sun. The Brazilian coastline, where most of its population lives, is more than 8,500 km long. Due to geographic characteristics and cultural trends, Brazilians are among the peoples with the highest annual exposure to the sun. Epidemiological data show a continuing increase in the incidence of non-melanoma and melanoma skin cancers. Photoprotection can be understood as a set of measures aimed at reducing sun exposure and at preventing the development of acute and chronic actinic damage. Due to the peculiarities of Brazilian territory and culture, it would not be advisable to replicate the concepts of photoprotection from other developed countries, places with completely different climates and populations. Thus the Brazilian Society of Dermatology has developed the Brazilian Consensus on Photoprotection, the first official document on photoprotection developed in Brazil for Brazilians, with recommendations on matters involving photoprotection.

Photoexcited triplet states of UV-B absorbers: ethylhexyl triazone and diethylhexylbutamido triazone

The lowest excited triplet state of a UV-B absorber with extremely high molecular extinction, ethylhexyl triazone, can be assigned to a locally excited³ππ* state within a chromophore,p-(N-methylamino)benzoic acid.

Optical and electron paramagnetic resonance studies of the excited triplet states of UV-B absorbers: 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate

UV-B absorbers, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and homomenthyl salicylate, show a photoinduced phosphorescence enhancement, which originates from the photoinduced intermolecular hydrogen-bond formation.

Study of the transformation of two salicylates used in personal care products in chlorinated water

Disinfection of swimming pool water is essential to inactivate pathogenic microorganisms. However chlorine based disinfectants, the most commonly used, are known to lead to the formation of disinfection by-products (DBPs), some of which have been associated with adverse health effects. Precursors of DBPs include the organic matter present in the water used to fill the swimming pool, human body fluids and personal care products (PCPs) used by swimmers and bathers. The increased use, in the last years, of PCPs lead to an increased concern about the fate of PCPs in swimming pool waters and potential health risks of formed DBPs. In this study, the chemical transformations of two salicylates, benzyl salicylate (BzS) and phenyl salicylate (PS), incorporated in several PCPs, in chlorinated water were investigated. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV-diode-array detection (HPLC-UV-DAD) was used to follow the reaction kinetics and HPLC with mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) was used to tentatively identify the major transformation by-products. Under the experimental conditions used in this work both salicylates reacted with chlorine following pseudo-first order kinetics: rate constant k = (0.0038 ± 0.0002) min(-1) and half-life t1/2 = (182 ± 10) min for BzS and rate constant k = (0.0088 ± 0.0005) min(-1) and half-life t1/2 = (79 ± 4) min for PS (mean ± standard deviation). The reactions of the two salicylates in chlorinated water led to the formation of DBPs that were tentatively identified as mono- and dichloro- substituted compounds. Most probably they result from an electrophilic substitution of one or two hydrogen atoms in the phenolic ring of both salicylates by one or two chlorine atoms.