The effect of solvent extraction on the lipids of the stratum corneum in relation to observed immediate whitening of the skin

Solubility of Foreign Molecules in Stratum Corneum Brick and Mortar Structure

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC). One key aspect in predicting dermal drug delivery and in safety assessment of skin exposure to chemicals is the need to determine the amount of chemical that is taken up into the SC. We here present a strategy that allows for direct measures of the amount of various solid chemicals that can be dissolved in the SC in any environmental relative humidity (RH). A main advantage of the presented method is that it distinguishes between molecules that are dissolved within the SC and molecules that are not dissolved but might be present at, for example, the skin surface. In addition, the method allows for studies of uptake of hydrophobic chemicals without the need to use organic solvents. The strategy relies on the differences in the molecular properties of the added molecules in the dissolved and the excess states, employing detection methods that act as a dynamic filter to spot only one of the fractions, either the dissolved molecules or the excess solid molecules. By measuring the solubility in SC and delipidized SC at the same RHs, the same method can be used to estimate the distribution of the added chemical between the extracellular lipids and corneocytes at different hydration conditions. The solubility in porcine SC is shown to vary with hydration, which has implications for the molecular uptake and transport across the skin. The findings highlight the importance of assessing the chemical uptake at hydration conditions relevant to the specific applications. The methodology presented in this study can also be generalized to study the solubility and partitioning of chemicals in other heterogeneous materials with complex composition and structure.

Stratum Corneum Function: A Structural Study with Dynamic Synchrotron X-ray Diffraction Experiments

Studies on the effectiveness of substances such as drugs and cosmetics that act on the skin require structural evidence at the molecular level in the stratum corneum to clarify their interaction with intercellular lipid and soft keratin. For this purpose, when applying the substances to the stratum corneum X-ray diffraction experiment is one of the powerful tools. To detect minute structural changes in a stratum corneum sample, using a "solution cell", dynamic synchrotron X-ray diffraction measurements were performed when applying aqueous solution of the substances to the stratum corneum: (1) It was found that a surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate, significantly disrupted the long-period lamellar structure. (2) To study the effects of water, structural modifications of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin in corneocytes were measured as a function of time. At the initial water content of 15 wt%, the spacings of the short-period lamellar structure and the soft keratin increased toward those at the water content of 25 wt%, that is a key water content in the stratum corneum. (3) Nanoparticles composed of assembly of amphiphilic molecules are one of the leading pharmaceutical formulations. When the nanoparticles were applied, a new assembly of amphiphilic molecules originated from the nanoparticle appeared. This phenomenon suggests that the formation of the new assembly at the surface of skin is concerned with the release of the drug from the nanoparticles. (4) When ethanol was applied to the stratum corneum, only the liquid state in the intercellular lipid matrix was dissolved. After the removal of ethanol from this stratum corneum, the ordered hydrocarbon-chain packing structures appeared. From this fact we would propose that the liquid state region is the main pathway for hydrophobic drugs with a small molecular weight in connection with the so-called 500 Da rule. Here, not only the technique but also the background to these studies and the characteristic results obtained from these studies are explained.

Permeation-enhancing effects and mechanisms of borneol and menthol on ligustrazine: A multiscale study using in vitro and coarse-grained molecular dynamics simulation methods

Borneol (BO) and menthol (MEN) are two widely used natural permeation enhancers in the transdermal drug delivery system. In previous studies, their permeation enhancement effects and mechanisms of action on the hydrophobic drug osthole (logP = 3.8) and hydrophilic drug 5-fluorouracil (logP = -0.9) have been studied. In this study, ligustrazine (LTZ), whose logP is 1.3, was used as a model drug to provide a comprehensive understanding of the influence of its logP on the permeation-enhancing effects of BO and MEN. Both BO and MEN enhanced the permeation of LTZ through the skin stratum corneum, as determined using the modified Franz diffusion cell experiment. The enhancement mechanisms were illustrated by coarse-grained molecular dynamics simulations as follows: at low concentrations, the enhancing ratio of MEN was higher than that of BO because of the stronger perturbation effects of MEN on the lipid bilayer, making it looser and facilitating LTZ diffusion. However, at high concentrations, in addition to the diffusion mechanism, BO induced the formation of water channels to improve the permeation of LTZ; however, MEN had no significant effects through this mechanism. Their results were different from those found with osthole and 5-fluorouracil and have been discussed in this study.

A Possible Percutaneous Penetration Pathway That Should Be Considered

The intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum form structures composed of ordered phases with orthorhombic and hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing structures and, in addition, a structure composed of a disordered fluid phase. Although the fluid phase plays an important role in percutaneous penetration, little attention has been paid to it in the literature thus far. Recently, a method to estimate the proportion of the fluid phase within the lipids of the stratum corneum was proposed and it was shown to reach about 80%. However, since that study assumed uniform extraction of the intercellular lipids from the stratum corneum, the analysis might give rise to an overestimation of the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase. We developed a way to investigate the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase by treating with ethanol, into which the lipids in the fluid phase might be dominantly dissolved. From the experiment we pointed out the possibility that the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase reached more than 50% of the whole intercellular lipids. Therefore, the fluid-phase region in the intercellular lipid matrix should be taken into account when considering the percutaneous penetration mechanism.

Tracking solvents in the skin through atomically resolved measurements of molecular mobility in intact stratum corneum

Solvents are commonly used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and sanitary products and cleansers. The uptake of solvent into the skin may change the molecular organization of skin lipids and proteins, which may in turn alter the protective skin barrier function. We herein examine the molecular effects of 10 different solvents on the outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum (SC), using polarization transfer solid-state NMR on natural abundance ¹³C in intact SC. With this approach it is possible to characterize the molecular dynamics of solvent molecules when present inside intact SC and to simultaneously monitor the effects caused by the added solvent on SC lipids and protein components. All solvents investigated cause an increased fluidity of SC lipids, with the most prominent effects shown for the apolar hydrocarbon solvents and 2-propanol. However, no solvent other than water shows the ability to fluidize amino acids in the keratin filaments. The solvent molecules themselves show reduced molecular mobility when incorporated in the SC matrix. Changes in the molecular properties of the SC, and in particular alternation in the balance between solid and fluid SC components, may have significant influences on the macroscopic SC barrier properties as well as mechanical properties of the skin. Deepened understanding of molecular effects of foreign compounds in SC fluidity can therefore have strong impact on the development of skin products in pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and sanitary applications.

Effect of different alcohols on stratum corneum kallikrein 5 and phospholipase A2 together with epidermal keratinocytes and skin irritation

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this exploratory study was to investigate the effect of ethanol, isopropanol and n-propanol on stratum corneum (SC) enzymes and keratinocytes in vitro together with their effects on skin condition and function.

METHODS

Activities of kallikrein 5 (KLK5) and phospholipase A2 (PLA2) as well as keratinocyte metabolic activity, interleukin-1α (IL-1α) and tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) were measured in vitro in the presence and absence of the different alcohols. We also measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, visual dryness and visual redness on the volar forearms of 25 Caucasian women following application of the alcohols 20 and 100 times per day over a period of 14 days in a clinical study.

RESULTS

Reduced activities of KLK5 and PLA2 were observed in the presence of the alcohols. The greatest denaturing effect was always observed for n-propanol (P < 0.001), and in the case of PLA2, the effect of isopropanol was greater than ethanol (P < 0.001). Equally, ethanol had the mildest effects on keratinocyte metabolic activity and cytokine secretion (P < 0.001) and n-propanol always produced the most severe changes in normal and differentiated keratinocytes. These in vitro findings supported the clinical results where the major effects were on the induction of skin irritation (increased dropout rates) and ranked the intolerance of the different alcohols as follows: n-propanol > isopropanol > ethanol. At the high application frequencies, the effect of the different alcohols on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance was similar, but at the low application frequencies, n-propanol had a significant effect on TEWL and capacitance values (P < 0.05). Equally, n-propanol and isopropanol produced significantly more skin redness at the low application frequencies.

CONCLUSIONS

Clearly, isopropanol and n-propanol caused significant SC and keratinocyte perturbation in vitro together with damage to skin condition and function in vivo whereas ethanol did not. As a result, we show that ethanol-based sanitizers are better tolerated by skin, particularly in high-use settings, than other alcohols and should be the active ingredient of choice.

Effects of Concentrations on the Transdermal Permeation Enhancing Mechanisms of Borneol: A Coarse-Grained Molecular Dynamics Simulation on Mixed-Bilayer Membranes

Borneol is a natural permeation enhancer that is effective in drugs used in traditional clinical practices as well as in modern scientific research. However, its molecular mechanism is not fully understood. In this study, a mixed coarse-grained model of stratum corneum (SC) lipid bilayer comprised of Ceramide-N-sphingosine (CER NS) 24:0, cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFA) 24:0 (2:2:1) was used to examine the permeation enhancing mechanism of borneol on the model drug osthole. We found two different mechanisms that were dependent on concentrations levels of borneol. At low concentrations, the lipid system maintained a bilayer structure. The addition of borneol made the lipid bilayer loosen and improved drug permeation. The "pull" effect of borneol also improved drug permeation. However, for a strongly hydrophobic drug like osthole, the permeation enhancement of borneol was limited. When most borneol molecules permeated into bilayers and were located at the hydrophobic tail region, the spatial competition effect inhibited drug molecules from permeating deeper into the bilayer. At high concentrations, borneol led to the formation of water pores and long-lived reversed micelles. This improved the permeation of osthole and possibly other hydrophobic or hydrophilic drugs through the SC. Our simulation results were supported by Franz diffusion tests and transmission electron microscope (TEM) experiments.

Influence of artificial sebum on the dermal absorption of chemicals in excised human skin: A proof-of-concept study

In an initial diffusion cell study, the influence of artificial sebum on dermal penetration and intradermal reservoir of ethanol and toluene was investigated in comparison with the effects of a skin cream (o/w- and w/o-emulsion) and untreated (control) skin. Human skin was exposed to neat ethanol and toluene for 4h, respectively. During the experiments, the penetration of the compounds was assessed in the receptor fluid. The amounts of the test compounds in the skin were determined at the end of exposure. In the control experiments, 42% of the total resorbed ethanol amounts were found in the intradermal reservoir after 4h, whereas 82% of the toluene amounts were found in the skin compartments. The treatment with artificial sebum showed no significant differences in dermal absorption of both test compounds compared to control skin. In contrast, the treatment with skin cream increased the percutaneous penetration (p<0.001) and the intradermal reservoir of ethanol ~2-fold but not of toluene. In all exposure scenarios, a relevant intradermal reservoir was formed. The results indicate that sebum does not influence the percutaneous penetration and the intradermal reservoir of epidermally applied chemicals, whereas the application of skin creams may increase the dermal penetration of the compounds.

Sucralose, a synthetic organochlorine sweetener: overview of biological issues

Sucralose is a synthetic organochlorine sweetener (OC) that is a common ingredient in the world's food supply. Sucralose interacts with chemosensors in the alimentary tract that play a role in sweet taste sensation and hormone secretion. In rats, sucralose ingestion was shown to increase the expression of the efflux transporter P-glycoprotein (P-gp) and two cytochrome P-450 (CYP) isozymes in the intestine. P-gp and CYP are key components of the presystemic detoxification system involved in first-pass drug metabolism. The effect of sucralose on first-pass drug metabolism in humans, however, has not yet been determined. In rats, sucralose alters the microbial composition in the gastrointestinal tract (GIT), with relatively greater reduction in beneficial bacteria. Although early studies asserted that sucralose passes through the GIT unchanged, subsequent analysis suggested that some of the ingested sweetener is metabolized in the GIT, as indicated by multiple peaks found in thin-layer radiochromatographic profiles of methanolic fecal extracts after oral sucralose administration. The identity and safety profile of these putative sucralose metabolites are not known at this time. Sucralose and one of its hydrolysis products were found to be mutagenic at elevated concentrations in several testing methods. Cooking with sucralose at high temperatures was reported to generate chloropropanols, a potentially toxic class of compounds. Both human and rodent studies demonstrated that sucralose may alter glucose, insulin, and glucagon-like peptide 1 (GLP-1) levels. Taken together, these findings indicate that sucralose is not a biologically inert compound.

Vitamin E Delivery to Human Skin by a Rinse-Off Product: Penetration of α-Tocopherol versus Wash-Out Effects of Skin Surface Lipids

alpha-Tocopherol, the major biologically active form of vitamin E, represents a frequently added lipophilic compound of skin care products. Despite its emerging use in rinse-off formulations, little is known on its efficacy with respect to its deposition or its antioxidant potential in human skin. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the single use of an alpha-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product provides effective deposition of alpha-tocopherol on human stratum corneum. To test this, forearm skin of 13 volunteers was washed either with an alpha-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product (test product, TP) or with an alpha-tocopherol-free vehicle control (control product, CP) (contralateral arm) using a standardized wash protocol. Thereafter, skin surface lipids were extracted with pure ethanol after the wash procedure as well as after 24 h. Additionally, one group of volunteers was subjected to irradiation of their forearms with low-dose UVA (8 J/cm(2)) prior to lipid extraction. Skin lipid extracts were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography using electrochemical detection for vitamin E and UV detection for squalene (SQ) and squalene monohydroperoxide. The results of this in vivo study demonstrated that (1) while CP treatment lowers, TP treatment strongly increases alpha-tocopherol levels of skin barrier lipids; (2) increased vitamin E deposition levels were maintained for a period of at least 24 h, and (3) TP treatment significantly inhibited photooxidation of SQ. In conclusion, the use of alpha-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off products may help to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier by providing protection against photooxidative stress at the level of skin surface lipids.

Effect of a chemical mixture on dermal penetration of arsenic and nickel in male pig in vitro

The effect of a chemical mixture on the dermal penetration of arsenic or nickel was assessed by applying arsenic-73 or nickel-63 alone or with the chemical mixture to dermatomed male pig skin samples in flow-through diffusion cells. The chemical mixture consisted of chloroform, phenanthrene, and toluene for arsenic penetration studies and phenol, toluene, and trichloroethylene (TCE) for nickel studies. These are predominant chemicals found at hazardous waste sites. Arsenic and nickel bind to skin after dermal exposure. Total penetration of arsenic and nickel in the chemical mixture were significantly increased by 33% and 20% compared to arsenic and nickel alone, respectively. While more radioactivity penetrated skin with chemical treatment than metal alone, significantly less radioactivity was loosely adsorbed to skin and could be easily washed off from the skin surface with soap and water. The results of this study indicate that the potential health risk from dermal exposure to arsenic or nickel is enhanced if other chemicals are present.