Radical Protection by Sunscreens in the Infrared Spectral Range

Evidence of the protective effect of anti-pollution products against oxidative stress in skin ex vivo using EPR spectroscopy and autofluorescence measurements

The concentration of air pollution is gradually increasing every year so that daily skin exposure is unavoidable. Dietary supplements and topical formulations currently represent the protective strategies to guard against the effects of air pollution on the body and the skin. Unfortunately, there are not yet enough methods available to measure the effectiveness of anti-pollution products on skin. Here, we present two ex vivo methods for measuring the protective effect against air pollution of different cream formulations on the skin: Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and autofluorescence excited by 785 nm using a confocal Raman microspectrometer (CRM). Smoke from one cigarette was used as a model pollutant. EPR spectroscopy enables the direct measurement of free radicals in excised porcine skin after smoke exposure. The autofluorescence in the skin was measured ex vivo, which is an indicator of oxidative stress. Two antioxidants and a chelating agent in a base formulation and a commercial product containing an antioxidant mixture were investigated. The ex vivo studies show that the antioxidant epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) in the base cream formulation provided the best protection against oxidative stress from smoke exposure for both methods.

The effects of infrared radiation on the human skin

BACKGROUND

Infrared radiation (IR) is the portion of the electromagnetic spectrum between visible light (VL) and microwaves, with wavelengths between 700 nm and 1 mm. Humans are mainly exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation (UVR) and IR through the sun. Unlike UVR which is well known for its carcinogenic properties, the relationship between IR and skin health has not been as extensively studied; as such, we gather the available published evidence here to better elucidate this relationship.

METHODS

Several databases including Pubmed, Google Scholar, and Embase were searched for articles relating to infrared radiation and the skin. Articles were selected for their relevance and novelty.

RESULTS

Detrimental effects such as thermal burns, photocarcinogenesis, and photoaging have been reported, though evidence suggests that these may be due to the thermal effects produced secondary to IR exposure rather than the isolated effect of IR. There are currently no chemical or physical filters specifically available for protection against IR, and existing compounds are not known to have IR-filtering capacity. Interestingly, IR may have some photoprotective properties against the carcinogenic effects of UVR. Furthermore, IR has been used with encouraging results in skin rejuvenation, wound healing, and hair restoration when given at an appropriate therapeutic dose.

CONCLUSION

A better understanding of the current landscape of research surrounding IR can help illuminate its effects on the skin and highlight areas for further research. Here, we review relevant data on IR to assess its deleterious and beneficial effects on human skin, along with possible means for IR photoprotection.

Skin optical properties from 200 to 300 nm support far UV-C skin-safety in vivo

The growing threat of multi-drug resistant pathogens and airborne microbial diseases has highlighted the need to improve or develop novel disinfection methods for clinical environments. Conventional ultraviolet C (UV-C) lamps effectively inactivate microorganisms but are harmful to human skin and eyes upon exposure. The use of new 233 nm far UV-C LEDs as an antiseptic can overcome those limitations. In this research, the light penetration into the skin was elucidated for the UV-C region (<300 nm) by measuring the scattering and absorption of skin layers and inverse Monte Carlo simulation, and further confirmed by the first clinical pilot trial in which healthy volunteers were irradiated with a dose of 60 mJ/cm2 at 233 nm. The radiation is strongly absorbed in the stratum corneum, resulting in minimal skin damage without inducing inflammatory responses. The results suggest that 233 nm far UV-C light emitting diodes (LEDs) could effectively inactivate microorganisms, while being safe and soft for the skin.

Cosmetic Formulations with Melaleuca alternifolia Essential Oil for the Improvement of Photoaged Skin: A Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study

This aim of this study was to evaluate the penetration depth, antioxidant capacity and the clinical efficacy of Melaleuca alternifolia pure essential oil and in a nanoemulsion to prevent skin photoaging. For this, 2% of pure essential oil or 2% of this essential oil in a nanoemulsion were vehiculated in a formulation. The skin penetration was evaluated using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. The radical protection factor was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. For a clinical study, 40 male participants, aged 18-28 years, were enrolled, being divided into three groups: vehicle formulation, M. alternifolia pure essential oil and M. alternifolia Nanoemulsion. All the participants also received a sunscreen SPF 50 to use during the day. Before and after 90 days of study, skin hydrolipidics and morphological characteristics were performed by skin imaging and biophysical techniques. The nanoemulsion presented a lower antioxidant capacity and a higher penetration through the stratum corneum, reaching the viable epidermis, improving the stratum granulosum morphology. The groups presented an increase in the papillary depth, improving in the dermis echogenicity and the collagen fibers. Melaleuca alternifolia essential provides the potential to improve photoaged skin, being the application of nanoemulsion able to reach deeper skin layers.

Skin Care Product Rich in Antioxidants and Anti-Inflammatory Natural Compounds Reduces Itching and Inflammation in the Skin of Atopic Dermatitis Patients

The atopic dermatitis (AD) complex pathogenesis mechanism reveals marked changes of certain signaling factors as well as some morphological alterations in the epidermis. Reduced resilience against environmental factors and oxidative stress often makes the treatment with corticosteroids or tacrolismus ointments indispensable. In view of the correlation between oxidative stress and AD pathological factors, antioxidants can be incorporated into AD management strategies. This study investigates a curly kale, apple and green tea-containing natural extract rich in antioxidants for its effects on signaling inflammatory molecules and skin barrier enhancement in human epidermal keratinocytes- (NHEKs) based cell assays. Furthermore, the skin penetration on porcine ears was measured ex vivo using Raman micro spectroscopy. Finally, in a double-blind half-side, placebo-controlled clinical study, the effects of a formulation containing this extract were analyzed for the influence of lesion severity, epidermal barrier function, and pruritus in mild to moderately AD patients. Summarizing our results: The extract reduces expression of inflammatory cytokines in keratinocytes and increases barrier-related molecules. The verum formulation with a very high antioxidant capacity used in AD patients with mild to moderate lesions reduces itching, local SCORAD, and improves barrier function and the hydration of skin lesions.

The impacts of sun protection and skin care habits in the biophysical and morphological properties of young men skin

BACKGROUND

Previous studies have demonstrated that UVB radiation may cause changes in the epidermal permeability barrier and in the stratum corneum hydration. It is also well known that sun exposure causes erythema, skin cancer and other physiologic alterations. Furthermore, because of the cultural barrier, men usually apply less sunscreen.

AIMS

The objective of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic use and sun protection habits of young men, correlating their lifestyle with the biophysical and morphological skin characteristics, as well as to study how skin unprotected sun exposure can affect these features even in young people.

PATIENTS/METHODS

60 participants between 18 and 28 years old were divided into two groups: with photoprotection habits (PP habits) and without photoprotection habits (No PP habits). They were questioned about their sunscreen and cosmetic products use. The skin parameters were evaluated using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

60% of the participants did not apply sunscreen often and 80% did not consume other skin care products. No PP habits group presented an increase in the transepidermal water loss - TEWL and sebum level, as well as a reduction in the stratum corneum water content and dermis echogenicity. The skin characteristics evaluated in this study were correlated with the sun protection habits and skin care behavior showing that men face some sociocultural barrier to start the use of cosmetic products. Thus, it is important to consider this information for the dermatological clinical and development of cosmetic products for men's skin.

Wavelength, dose, skin type and skin model related radical formation in skin

The exposure to sun radiation is indispensable to our health; however, a long-term and high exposure could lead to cell damage, erythema, premature skin aging, and promotion of skin tumors. An underlying pathomechanism is the formation of free radicals which may induce oxidative stress at elevated concentrations. Different skin models, such as porcine-, murine-, human- ex vivo skin, reconstructed human skin (RHS) and human skin in vivo, were investigated during and after irradiation using X- and L-band EPR spectroscopy within different spectral regions (UVC to NIR). The amount of radical formation was quantified with the spin probe PCA and the radical types were measured ex vivo with the spin trap DMPO. The radiation dose influences the types of radicals formed in the skin. While reactive oxygen species (ROS) are always pronounced at low doses, there is an increase in lipid oxygen species (LOS) at high doses. Furthermore, the radical types arise independent from the irradiation wavelength, whereas the general amount of radical formation differs with the irradiation wavelength. Heat pre-stressed porcine skin already starts with higher LOS values. Thus, the radical type ratio might be an indicator of stress and the reversal of ROS/LOS constitutes the point where positive stress turns into negative stress.Compared to light skin types, darker types produce less radicals in the ultraviolet, similar amounts in the visible and higher ones in the infrared spectral region, rendering skin type-specific sun protection a necessity.

Eco-friendly sunscreen formulation based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin increases the antioxidant capacity and the light scattering activity in the visible light

Most modern sunscreens contain physical filters, which scatter the sunlight, increasing the photons' pathway in the upper stratum corneum. This effect can lead to a better efficacy of the UV filters and improve the diffuse reflection. However, the addition of nanosized inorganic UV filters reduces the antioxidant capacity of sunscreen formulations. Two cream formulations (F1, F2) which differ in the ingredient PEG75 Lanolin (F2), have been characterized for their radical protection factor (RPF) and their optical properties in vitro using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and UV/VIS spectrometry. The RPF for PEG-75 Lanolin was also determined. Furthermore, their radical protection properties were analyzed on porcine skin ex vivo after visible light irradiation by EPR. The structure of each formulation in the skin surface was determined by reflectance confocal microscopy in vivo. The addition of lanolin increased the reflectance and reduced the transmittance for visible light, improving the scattering drastically. Besides, the antioxidant capacity was also increased for F2, something unpublished until now. F1 presented a lower scattering provided by starches. The sunscreens showed high scattering properties and antioxidant capacity, especially for F2, which presented the lowest radical formation in the skin model. These results are consistent with the RPF measurements where F2 has a higher RPF value (193 ± 3 × 10¹⁴ radicals/mg) than F1 (155 ± 4 × 10¹⁴ radicals/mg) and for PEG-75 Lanolin (37 ± 1 × 10¹⁴ radicals/mg). The combination of starches and PEG-75 Lanolin is the first solution to provide both, light scattering and antioxidant capacity, in sunscreens.

Solvent Effects on Skin Penetration and Spatial Distribution of the Hydrophilic Nitroxide Spin Probe PCA Investigated by EPR

Oxidative stress occurs in extrinsic skin aging processes and diseases when the enhanced production of free radicals exceeds the homeostatic antioxidant capacity of the skin. The spin probe, 3-(carboxy)-2,2,5,5-tetramethylpyrrolidin-1-oxyl (PCA), is frequently used to study the cutaneous radical production by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. This approach requires delivering PCA into the skin, yet solvent effects on the skin penetration and spatial distribution of PCA have not been thoroughly investigated. Three solvents of ethanol, phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) and ethanol-PBS (1:1) were studied. For both human and porcine skin ex vivo, the amount of PCA in the stratum corneum (SC) was the lowest when using ethanol and very similar for PBS and ethanol-PBS. The highest amount of PCA in the viable skin layers was detected for ethanol-PBS, yet it only took up less than 5% of the total amount. The majority of PCA was localized in the SC, among which PCA with high mobility was predominantly distributed in the hydrophilic microenvironment of corneocytes and PCA with lower mobility was mainly in the less hydrophilic microenvironment of intercellular skin lipids. A higher ethanol concentration in the solvent could improve the distribution of PCA in the hydrophilic microenvironments of the SC. The results suggest that ethanol-PBS (1:1) is best-suited for delivering most PCA deep into the skin. This work enhances the understanding of solvent effects on the skin penetration and distribution of PCA and supports the utilization of PCA in studying cutaneous radical production.

Balance between Health Risks and Benefits for Outdoor Workers Exposed to Solar Radiation: An Overview on the Role of Near Infrared Radiation Alone and in Combination with Other Solar Spectral Bands

Near infrared or infrared A (IRA) accounts for over 40% of the solar spectrum (SS) and is able to reach subcutaneous tissue as well as the retina. Outdoor workers are occupationally exposed to solar radiation (SR), but the level of exposure may differ widely depending on the job performed, time spent outdoors, latitude, altitude, season, personal protection, etc. Until now, risk assessment and management for outdoor workers has focused on the prevention of both acute and long-term effects on the eye and the skin due to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) with little consideration of the other components of the SS (a possible exception is represented by visible radiation with reference to the eye). A growing body of evidence coming from in vitro studies indicates that IRA is involved in cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production and may interfere with the respiratory chain in the mitochondria. Moreover, it can modulate gene expression and some metabolic pathways. The biological action of IRA is only partly attributable to a thermal mechanism, should it be also involved in photochemical ones. The cellular and molecular pathways affected by IRA are partly similar and partly different with respect to those involved in the case of visible ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation. Consequently, the net effect of the SS is very difficult to predict at different levels of the biological organization, making more difficult the final balance of health risk and benefits (for the skin, eye, immune system, blood pressure, etc.) in a given exposure situation. Moreover, few in vivo studies and no epidemiological data are presently available in this regard. Investigating this topic may contribute to better defining the individual exposome. More practically, it is expected to bring benefits to the risk assessment and management for outdoor workers exposed to SS, contributing to: (1) better definition of the individual profiles of susceptibility, (2) more focused preventive and protective measures, (3) better implementation of the health surveillance and (4) a more effective information and training.

A novel in vivo test method for evaluating the infrared radiation protection provided by sunscreen products

BACKGROUND

Infrared radiation (IR) exposure generates reactive oxygen species and induces matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression in human skin. Moreover, while not as acute as ultraviolet radiation, repeated infrared irradiation can result in the photoaging of skin. Broad-spectrum sunscreens can protect skin from IR, but no human in vivo test methods for the evaluation of sunscreens' IR protection effect have been developed. We aimed to develop such a method.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We included 155 Korean subjects in our three-part clinical study. The IR reflectance of subjects' skin was measured using a benchtop model of an IR light source and a reflectance measuring probe. We measured the IR reflectance in relation to skin color and hydration level to set up our experimental conditions. We then calculated the infrared protection factors (IPFs) of cosmetic emulsions as the IR reflectance ratio between cosmetic sunscreen-applied skin and non-sunscreen-applied skin and assessed the relationship between IPFs and the amount of sunscreen ingredients. Finally, this method was validated using several commercial sunscreen cosmetics.

RESULTS

Skin color and hydration level did not influence the IR reflectance of subjects' skin. The IPFs of cosmetic sunscreens showed a positive correlation with the amount of inorganic sunscreen ingredients.

CONCLUSION

In this study, we developed a simple, fast, and ethically acceptable human in vivo test method for evaluating the IPFs of cosmetic sunscreens.

Application of an Easy-to-Perform High-Energy and Low-End Visible Light Transmittance Method and the Influence of Tinted Sunscreens on High-Energy/Low-End Visible Light Transmittance and Infrared Protection

BACKGROUND

About 50% of the sun's radiation arriving on earth is visible light (VIS). For a long time, its effects on human health have not been fully investigated. But recently, the influence of VIS has gained more attention, especially regarding skin physiology. Studies showed various effects, many of them harmful, comparable to UV radiation. As a result, there are now a few sunscreens commercially available which claim protection against VIS. The question of whether protection is necessary is still much discussed.

AIMS

The objective of this study was to develop an easy-to-perform high-energy visible (HEV) and low-end visible (LEV) light transmittance method to determine the direct VIS protection of sunscreens and other cosmetic samples. Furthermore, the influence of the brightness of the tested products on the HEV, LEV, and infrared A protection was investigated.

METHODS

An experimental setup consisting of a light source, a VIS-transmissible filter system, and a sensor unit was built to measure the direct VIS protection of sunscreens and other daily skin care products in two ranges of the VIS area. For a closer look, the brightness of the samples was evaluated by photometric assessment.

RESULTS/CONCLUSION

The experimental setup could be validated. It could be demonstrated for the first time that there is a strong positive linear correlation between transmittance and brightness of tinted sunscreen and daily skin care products with sunscreen properties in the HEV, LEV, and infrared A range. However, tinted samples worked best in the blue light region, and the higher the wavelength range, the lower the protection.

Sunscreen Application, Safety, and Sun Protection: The Evidence

Recently in Canada, there has been an effort to create consistent messaging about sun safety as there is a lack of up-to-date evidence-based guidelines regarding sun-protection measures. This review aimed to provide updated, evidence-based recommendations on sunscreen application, safety, and sun protection regarding the following topics for which there is clinical uncertainty: physical barriers, sunscreen properties, sunscreen application, and risk-benefit analysis.

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin - New perspectives and evaluation for claims support

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti-ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity-all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.

Novel Means for Photoprotection

Due to changes in human lifestyle (expanded sunbathing, the use of solaria, etc.) and, most importantly, increasing lifetime and thus higher cumulative exposure to solar radiation, skin aging and skin cancer have become major health issues. As a consequence effective photoprotection is of outmost importance to humans. In this regard a lot has been learned in the past about the cellular and molecular basis underlying ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced skin damage and, based on this knowledge, numerous skin protective approaches including organic and inorganic UV-filters, but also topically applicable antioxidants, DNA repair enzymes and compatible solutes as well as oral photoprotective strategies based on nutritional supplements have been developed. A new aspect is here that sun protection of human skin might even be possible after solar radiation-induced skin damage has occurred. A second, very important development was prompted by the discovery that also wavelengths beyond the UV spectrum can damage human skin. These include the blue light region of visible light (VIS) as well as the near infrared range (IRA) and corresponding sunprotection strategies have thus recently been or are still being developed. In this article we will provide a state of the art summary of these two novel developments and, at the end, we will also critically discuss strengths and weaknesses of the current attempts, which mainly focus on the prevention of skin damage by selected wavelengths but greatly ignore the possibility that wavelengths might interfere with each other. Such combined effects, however, need to be taken into account if photoprotection of human skin is intended to be global in nature.

The Use of Directional Reflectance Measurement for in vivo Assessment of Protective Properties of Cosmetics in the Infrared Radiation Range

Photoprotection of skin is now focused on UV radiation. The aim of this study was to evaluate in vivo cosmetic products in terms of protection against infrared radiation (IR) and propose a methodology for conducting such measurements. The directional reflectance (DR) of 12 UV filters, six care creams and two preparations containing fumed silica applied on the forearm of 36 volunteers was examined in six spectral bands for two angles of incidence. SOC-410 Directional Hemispherical Reflectometer was used to measure DR. There is very little change in DR for all spectral bands for both incident angles for both UV filters, care creams and preparations containing fumed silica. For example, for 15% of fumed silica in glycerin for the spectral band of 0.9-1.1 μm and the incident angle of 20°, skin DR prior to application was 0.543; 5 min after application was 0.533 and 30 min after application was 0.559. Both UV filters, care creams and fumed silica do not protect skin against IR. The proposed method of in vivo measurements is superior to in vitro studies which have been conducted so far because it takes into account both the refractive index at the tissue/air interface and the absorption of IR by adipose tissue.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.

Investigation of Model Sunscreen Formulations Comparing the Sun Protection Factor, the Universal Sun Protection Factor and the Radical Formation Ratio

In view of globally rising skin cancer rates and harmful effects exerted by sunlight throughout the ultraviolet, visible and infrared ranges, an objective, safe and comprehensive method for determining sunscreen efficacy is required in order to warrant safe sun exposure. In this study, the influence of characteristic active ingredients (chemical filters, physical filters and antioxidants) on different sunscreen indicators, including the universal sun protection factor and the radical formation ratio, was determined and compared to their influence on sun protection factor values. Spectroscopic universal sun protection factor measurements were conducted ex vivo by analyzing tape strips taken from human skin, and radical formation ratio determination was performed via electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy using porcine ear skin ex vivo. The sun protection factor determination was conducted according to ISO standards (ISO 24444:2010). It was shown that chemical filters provide a protective effect which was measurable by all methods examined (spectroscopy, electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy and erythema formation). Physical filters, when used as single active ingredients, increased protective values in universal sun protection factor and sun protection factor measurements but exhibited no significant effect on universal sun protection factor measurements when used in combination with chemical filters or antioxidants. Antioxidants were shown to increase sun protection factor values. Radical formation ratio values were shown to be influenced merely by chemical filters, leading to the conclusion that the universal sun protection factor is the most suitable efficacy indicator for the ultraviolet range.

Low to moderate doses of infrared A irradiation impair extracellular matrix homeostasis of the skin and contribute to skin photodamage

Human skin is daily exposed to sun rays, which include not only ultraviolet radiation, but also an important quantity of infrared (IR) radiation. In the past few years, many publications have underlined the negative impact of IR radiation on the human skin, particularly when the skin and/or the cells are exposed to high sun irradiance and significant doses of IR. In the present study, we demonstrate, in vitro on normal human fibroblasts, that even under low irradiance with single or very few repeated doses, infrared A irradiation (IRA) produces free radicals, triggers major changes in the expression of the type I collagen and elastin network, impairs the dermal-epidermal junction, upregulates several matrix metalloproteinases and has an impact on the expression of key genes of the extracellular matrix. We conclude that chronic or discretionary exposure to IRA could play a role that is more important than expected in premature skin aging.

Molecular action mechanisms of solar infrared radiation and heat on human skin

The generation of ROS underlies all solar infrared-affected therapeutic and pathological cutaneous effects. The signaling pathway NF-kB is responsible for the induced therapeutic effects, while the AP-1 for the pathological effects. The different signaling pathways of infrared-induced ROS and infrared-induced heat shock ROS were shown to act independently multiplying the influence on each other by increasing the doses of irradiation and/or increasing the temperature. The molecular action mechanisms of solar infrared radiation and heat on human skin are summarized and discussed in detail in the present paper. The critical doses are determined. Protection strategies against infrared-induced skin damage are proposed.

Radical protection in the visible and infrared by a hyperforin-rich cream--in vivo versus ex vivo methods

The formation of radicals plays an important role in the development of atopic eczema or barrier-disrupted skin. We evaluated the radical scavenging effect of a cream containing a Hypericum perforatum extract rich in hyperforin in a double-blind placebo-controlled study on 11 healthy volunteers. Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy was applied to determine radical formation during VIS/NIR irradiation of the inner forearm. The results were compared to ex vivo investigations on excised porcine ear skin after a single application of the creams. The non-treated skin was measured as control. The absolute values and the kinetics are not comparable for ex vivo and in vivo radical formation. Whereas in vivo, the radical production decreases with time, it remains stable ex vivo over the investigated timescale. Nevertheless, ex vivo methods could be developed to estimate the protection efficiency of creams. In vivo as well as ex vivo, the radical formation could be reduced by almost 80% when applying the hyperforin-rich cream onto the skin, whereas placebo resulted in about 60%. In vivo, a daylong protection effect could be validated after a 4-week application time of the cream indicating that a regular application is necessary to obtain the full effect.

Enhancement of skin radical scavenging activity and stratum corneum lipids after the application of a hyperforin-rich cream

Hyperforin is well-known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, anti-bacterial, and antioxidant properties. The application of a hyperforin-rich verum cream could strengthen the skin barrier function by reducing radical formation and stabilizing stratum corneum lipids. Here, it was investigated whether topical treatment with a hyperforin-rich cream increases the radical protection of the skin during VIS/NIR irradiation. Skin lipid profile was investigated applying HPTLC on skin lipid extracts. Furthermore, the absorption- and scattering coefficients, which influence radical formation, were determined. 11 volunteers were included in this study. After a single cream application, VIS/NIR-induced radical formation could be completely inhibited by both verum and placebo showing an immediate protection. After an application period of 4weeks, radical formation could be significantly reduced by 45% following placebo application and 78% after verum application showing a long-term protection. Furthermore, the skin lipids in both verum and placebo groups increased directly after a single cream application but only significantly for ceramide [AP], [NP1], and squalene. After long-term cream application, concentration of cholesterol and the ceramides increased, but no significance was observed. These results indicate that regular application of the hyperforin-rich cream can reduce radical formation and can stabilize skin lipids, which are responsible for the barrier function.

Dose-dependent vitamin C uptake and radical scavenging activity in human skin measured with in vivo electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy

Vitamin C is a potent radical scavenger and a physiological part of the antioxidant system in human skin. The aim of this study was to measure changes in the radical-scavenging activity of human skin in vivo due to supplementation with different doses of vitamin C and at different time points. Therefore, 33 volunteers were supplemented with vitamin C or placebo for 4 weeks. The skin radical-scavenging activity was measured with electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. After 4 weeks, the intake of 100 mg vitamin C/day resulted in a significant increase in the radical-scavenging activity by 22%. Intake of 180 mg/day even resulted in a significant increase of 37%. No changes were found in the placebo group. A part of the study population was additionally measured after 2 weeks: in this group radical scavenging had already reached maximal activity after 2 weeks. In conclusion, orally administered vitamin C increases the radical-scavenging activity of the skin. The effect occurs fast and is enhanced with higher doses of vitamin C.

Beyond UV radiation: a skin under challenge

Since ancient times, human beings have been trying to protect their skin against the adverse effects of the sun. From the first mineral sunscreens used by Egyptians, to the current more sophisticated ultraviolet (UVA/UVB) organic sunscreens, progress has been made in terms of sun protection and deeper knowledge of skin physiology has been acquired in the process. The solar spectrum is composed of radiations of various wavelengths having specific, as well as overlapping effects on skin. UVB is mainly responsible for sunburn and DNA dimer formation that can lead to mutation. UVA generates oxidative reactions affecting DNA, proteins and lipids, and is also immunosuppressive. Recently, visible light and infrared radiation (IR) have been associated with oxidative damage and IR has been additionally linked to adverse heat effects on skin. Numerous other extrinsic factors, related to environment and lifestyle, also affect the appearance of skin, precipitating ageing. New molecular mechanisms linking sun and environmental factors to skin ageing have been identified: IR affects mitochondrial integrity and specific heat receptors also mediate some of its effects, tryptophan is a chromophore for UVB, and the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) is activated by light and xenobiotics to alter skin physiology. Integrating all these new elements is changing the way we think about skin extrinsic ageing. Is UVA/UVB sunscreen protection still enough for our skin?

Impact of near-infrared radiation in dermatology

Sunlight that reaches the human skin contains solar energy composed of 6.8% ultraviolet (UV), 38.9% visible light and 54.3% infrared radiation. In addition to natural near-infrared (NIR), human skin is increasingly exposed to artificial NIR from medical devices and electrical appliances. Thus, we are exposed to tremendous amounts of NIR. Many studies have proven the effects of UV exposure on human skin and skin cancers but have not investigated well the effects of NIR exposure. Furthermore, many of the previous NIR studies have used NIR resources without a water filter or a contact cooling. With these resources, a substantial amount of NIR energy is absorbed in the superficial layers and only limited NIR energy can be delivered to deeper tissues. Thus, they could not sufficiently evaluate the effects of incident solar NIR. In order to simulate solar NIR that reaches the skin, a water filter is essential because solar NIR is filtered by atmospheric water. In reality, NIR increases the surface temperature and induces thermal effects so a contact cooling is needed to pursue the properties of NIR. I clarify that NIR can penetrate the skin and non-thermally affect the subcutaneous tissues, including muscle and bone marrow, using a NIR resource with a water filter and a cooling system. I would like to emphasize the biological effects of NIR which have both merits and demerits. Appropriate NIR irradiation induces dermal heating thermally and non-thermally induces collagen and elastin stimulation, which results in skin tightening. NIR also induces non-thermal DNA damage of mitotic cells, which may have the potential application for treating cancer. However, as continuous NIR exposure may induce photoaging and potentially photocarcinogenesis, we should consider the effect of, not only UV, but also NIR and the necessity for protection against solar NIR. Here, this paper introduces the new aspects of the biological effects of NIR radiation.

Encapsulated curcumin results in prolonged curcumin activity in vitro and radical scavenging activity ex vivo on skin after UVB-irradiation

The phytochemical curcumin possesses antioxidant activity; however, it becomes unstable after being exposed to light or heat or loses activity during storage. This is especially important when curcumin is applied to the skin within a cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulation, since sun exposure is unavoidable. This drawback can be directly addressed by encapsulation of curcumin in photo-stable nanospheres. Therefore, curcumin was encapsulated into nanoparticles consisting of ethyl cellulose and/or methyl cellulose. Nanoparticles were subjected to processing conditions commonly used in industry, for example, temperature and pressure and thus retained their morphology. Furthermore, sun exposure resulted in the protection of curcumin by nanoparticles, whereas non-encapsulated curcumin degraded completely. Determination of the radical protection factor resulted in similar antioxidant activity of encapsulated and non-encapsulated curcumin indicating that curcumin maintains its antioxidant activity. Application of lotions containing curcumin or curcumin nanoparticles to the skin and subsequent UVB-irradiation resulted in less radical formation compared to lotion application only. Moreover, radical formation was even less after nanoparticle application compared to free curcumin. Nanoencapsulation protects curcumin from photo degradation and can therefore prolong the antioxidant activity of curcumin.

In vivo photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effect of hyperforin is associated with high antioxidant activity in vitro and ex vivo

Hyperforin, a major constituent of St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum, HP), provides anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, and anti-bacterial properties. Previous studies have shown anti-oxidative properties of St. John's Wort extracts; however, its free radical scavenging activity in skin cells or skin has not been assessed in detail so far. Therefore, the free radical scavenging activity of hyperforin was tested in the H(2)DCFDA-assay in vitro in HaCaT keratinocytes irradiated with solar simulated radiation. Hyperforin (EC(50) 0.7 μM corresponding to 0.42 μg/ml) was much more effective compared to Trolox (EC(50) 12 μg/ml) and N-acetylcysteine (EC(50) 847 μg/ml) without showing phototoxicity. The radical protection factor of a cream containing 1.5%w/w of a hyperforin-rich HP extract was determined to be 200 × 10(14) radicals/mg, indicating a high radical scavenging activity. The cream was further applied ex vivo on porcine ear skin and significantly reduced radical formation after infrared irradiation. Finally, the UV-protective effect of the HP cream was tested on 20 volunteers in a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled study. HP cream significantly reduced UVB-induced erythema as opposed to the vehicle. Occlusive application of HP cream on non-irradiated test sites did not cause any skin irritation. Taken together, these results demonstrate that hyperforin is a powerful free radical scavenger.