Comparison of skin calming effects of cosmetic products containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol or acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester on capsaicin-induced facial stinging in volunteers with sensitive skin

Developing Plant Exosomes as an Advanced Delivery System for Cosmetic Peptide

Peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, but due to their inherent instability and the barrier function of the skin's surface, they often have limited skin absorption and penetration, which can significantly hinder their skincare benefits. To address this, a novel technique called NanoGlow has been introduced for encapsulating peptide-based cosmetic raw materials into engineered nanosized plant-derived exosomes (pExo) to achieve the goal of a healthier and more radiant skin state. In this approach, pExo served as carriers for cosmetic peptides across the intact skin barrier, enhancing their biological effectiveness in skin beauty. The NanoGlow strategy combines chemical activation and physical proencapsulation, boasting a high success rate and straightforward and stable operation, making it suitable for large-scale production. Comprehensive analysis using in vitro cellular absorption and skin penetration models has demonstrated that the nanosized pExo carriers significantly improve peptide penetration into the skin compared to free peptides. Furthermore, in vivo tissue slice studies have shown that pExo carriers efficiently deliver acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the skin's dermis, surpassing the performance of free peptides. Cosmetic skincare effect analysis has also indicated that pExo-loaded cosmetic peptides deliver superior results. Therefore, the NanoGlow technique harnesses the natural size and properties of pExo to maximize the bioavailability of cosmetic peptides, holding great promise for developing advanced peptide delivery systems in both the cosmetic and medical drug industries.

A randomized, double-blind, controlled study evaluating the effects of two facial serums on skin aging

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a natural process that occurs because of oxidative stress. Facial skin aging is often concerning for individuals due to the exposure of the face.

OBJECTIVES

To assess and compare the effects of two anti-aging facial serums on the following characteristics associated with facial skin aging: fine lines/wrinkles, age spots, firmness, elasticity, texture, radiance, tone, lifting, clarity, and complexion.

METHODS

A 24-week, double-blind controlled study was conducted on 130 participants who were randomized into two groups: facial serum with Liposomal Blend and facial serum without Liposomal Blend. Clinical evaluations (Visual Analog Scale) and instrumental evaluations (Cutometer, SIAscope, and Clarity Pro image analysis) were performed at weeks 0 (baseline), 2, 4, 8, 12, and 24 to assess for changes in skin aging characteristics.

RESULTS

A total of 123 participants completed the study; participants that used the facial serum with Liposomal Blend had significantly greater improvements in skin aging characteristics compared to those that used the facial serum without Liposomal Blend. This study shows that Liposomal Blend is a vehicle with the ability to enhance the anti-aging properties of the ingredients within the facial serum by facilitating its delivery into the underlying layers of the skin. Higher concentration of ingredients at the site of action could potentially lead to greater damage repair and improvements in signs of facial skin aging.

CONCLUSION

By using Liposomal Blend, practitioners and pharmacists could potentially improve the delivery of the ingredients within their formulations into the skin, which may lead to increased treatment efficacy.

Functional validation of co-culture model of human keratinocytes and neuronal cell line for sensitive skin by using transient receptor potential channel vanilloid subfamily member 1 antagonist

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a subjective cutaneous hyper-reactivity that occurs in response to various innocuous stimuli. Keratinocytes have recently been shown to participate in sensory transduction by releasing many neuroactive molecules that bind to intra-epidermal free nerve endings and modulate nociception. In the literature, the characterization of these interactions has been based on the co-culture of keratinocyte and mammalian-origin neuronal cell lines. In this study, we established an in vitro model based on a co-culture of primary human keratinocytes and differentiated SH-SY5Y cells, a human neuronal cell line.

METHODS

Human epidermal keratinocytes and SH-SY5Y cells were monocultured and co-cultured. Changes in calcium influx, substance P, inflammatory cytokines, and neuropeptides between the monoculture and co-culture groups treated with capsaicin only and capsaicin with transient receptor potential channel vanilloid subfamily member 1 (TRPV1) antagonist, trans-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol (TTBC), together. In addition, the difference in stinging sensation was evaluated by applying it to the volunteers.

RESULTS

When SH-SY5Y cells were co-cultured with keratinocytes, they had no significant effect on axonal development. Substance P was also released after capsaicin treatment and reduced by TTBC under co-culture conditions. Moreover, the expression of inflammatory cytokines and neuropeptides was significantly increased in co-cultured keratinocytes compared to that under monoculture conditions. In addition, the stinging sensation was significantly induced after the application of capsaicin in vivo and was relieved after the application of the TRPV1 antagonist.

CONCLUSION

We demonstrated that the novel co-culture model is functionally valid through capsaicin and TRPV1 antagonist. We also confirmed that TTBC could be used for the treatment of sensitive skin through a co-culture model and in vivo tests. This co-culture model of keratinocytes and SH-SY5Y cells may be useful in vitro alternatives for studying the close communication between keratinocytes and neuronal cells and for screening therapeutic drugs for sensitive skin.

Soothing Effect of a Cosmetic Product on Skin Discomforts Induced by a Chemical Irritant (Capsaicin) and UV-Radiation, and after Mosquito Bites and Sunburn in a Real-World Setting

Irritated and itchy skin is a common skin condition. Consumers tend to opt for natural ingredients for irritated skin (e.g., after insect bites or sun exposure). We tested a cosmetic product with 94% of its ingredients being of natural origin, each with its beneficial properties, e.g., nourishing shea butter, cooling menthol, and soothing bisabolol. Skin discomfort was induced either by a chemical irritant (capsaicin) or UV radiation by a solar simulator. In this clinical, prospective, and controlled experimental study, we investigated the soothing effect of the tested product. We observed a soothing effect on the capsaicin-induced itching and stinging sensation with a statistically significant decrease in the discomfort sensations one minute after a single application. The tested product also showed a significant reduction in the UV-induced skin erythema (UVA+B exposure). In a real-world study, these results can be correlated with a decrease of itching and irritation after sunburn or after insect bites.

Matrikines as mediators of tissue remodelling

Extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins confer biomechanical properties, maintain cell phenotype and mediate tissue repair (via release of sequestered cytokines and proteases). In contrast to intracellular proteomes, where proteins are monitored and replaced over short time periods, many ECM proteins function for years (decades in humans) without replacement. The longevity of abundant ECM proteins, such as collagen I and elastin, leaves them vulnerable to damage accumulation and their host organs prone to chronic, age-related diseases. However, ECM protein fragmentation can potentially produce peptide cytokines (matrikines) which may exacerbate and/or ameliorate age- and disease-related ECM remodelling. In this review, we discuss ECM composition, function and degradation and highlight examples of endogenous matrikines. We then critically and comprehensively analyse published studies of matrix-derived peptides used as topical skin treatments, before considering the potential for improvements in the discovery and delivery of novel matrix-derived peptides to skin and internal organs. From this, we conclude that while the translational impact of matrix-derived peptide therapeutics is evident, the mechanisms of action of these peptides are poorly defined. Further, well-designed, multimodal studies are required.

Sensitive Skin Syndrome: A Low-Noise Small-Fiber Neuropathy Related to Environmental Factors?

Background and Objectives

Patients frequently complain of mild, transient, unpleasant skin sensations that cannot be diagnosed as common neuropathies. Dermatologists have termed these symptoms “sensitive skin syndrome.” This narrative review was performed for a better knowledge by other specialists.

Databases and Data Treatment

Publications on pain in sensitive skin syndrome were obtained from PubMed.

Results

There is a growing body of data supporting the concept that sensitive skin is a type of small-fiber neuropathy. The arguments are based on clinical data, a decrease in intra-epidermal nerve fiber density, quantitative sensory testing abnormalities and an association with irritable bowel syndrome and sensitive eyes. Sensitive skin is triggered by environmental factors. Sensitive skin is a frequent condition, with a lifetime prevalence of ~50% according to self-reports.

Conclusions

Mild levels of skin pain or itch are frequently experienced by patients, who rarely report them. There is a need for a better knowledge of sensitive skin because it can be the first level of small-fiber neuropathies.

Hybrid skin chips for toxicological evaluation of chemical drugs and cosmetic compounds

Development of drugs and cosmetics for topical application require safety tests in skin models. However, current skin models, such as skin cell sheets and artificial tissue-engineered skin, do not allow sophisticated toxicological evaluations (e.g., sensory irritation, hepatotoxicity). Animal models are prohibited worldwide for testing cosmetics. Therefore, reliable human skin models that recapitulate physiological events in skin tissue need to be established under in vitro settings. In this study, hybrid human skin models that enable delicate toxicological evaluations of drugs and cosmetic compounds are demonstrated. To recapitulate skin cornification, keratinocytes in the top layer of a vertical microfluidic chip were cultured at the air-liquid interface. For the skin-nerve hybrid model, differentiated neural stem cells in 3D collagen were positioned adjacent to and right below the skin layer. This model enables real-time quantitative skin sensitization analysis following chemical treatments by detecting alterations in neuronal activity in combination with a calcium imaging technique. For the skin-liver model, hepatic cells derived from pluripotent stem cells were cultured in 3D collagen distant from the skin layer. Potential hepatotoxicity of cutaneously applied chemicals in this model can be evaluated by quantification of glutathione and reactive oxygen species. Our study suggests that 3D hybrid skin chips would provide useful human skin models in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

OBJECTIVE

Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.

METHODS

A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.

CONCLUSION

This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms of discomfort when exposed to environmental factors. Peptides are used in cosmetics for sensitive skin and stand out as active ingredients for their ability to interact with skin cells by multiple mechanisms, high potency at low dosage and the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum. This study aimed to analyze the composition of 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands regarding usage of peptides, reviewing their synthetic pathways and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Peptides were found in 17% of the products analyzed, namely: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-49, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide. Three out of seven peptides have a neurotransmitter-inhibiting mechanism of action, while another three are signal peptides. Only five peptides present evidence supporting their use in sensitive skin, with only one clinical study including volunteers having this condition. Noteworthy, the available data is mostly found in patents and supplier brochures, and not in randomized placebo-controlled studies. Peptides are useful active ingredients in cosmetics for sensitive skin. Knowing their efficacy and synthetic pathways provides meaningful insight for the development of new and more effective ingredients.

Efficacy and tolerability of a detergent and care component for rosacea patients: A split-face, vehicle-controlled, randomized trial

BACKGROUND

The treatment of facial erythema and subjective symptoms of rosacea patients remains challenging in clinical practice. Cosmeceuticals, care components containing active ingredients such as phytochemicals, play a growing role in treatment plans. However, well-designed studies on their efficacy and limitations are widely missing.

OBJECTIVE

A foam and a cream for rosacea patients were assessed based on objective and subjective methodology. The tolerability of skin and eyes was evaluated.

METHODS

A randomized, double-blinded, split-face, and vehicle-controlled trial was conducted. At baseline and after four weeks of product use, dermatological and ophthalmological investigations were performed, employing image analysis of facial erythema, clinical assessments, and questionnaires.

RESULTS

The patient cohort comprised 33 females with persistent facial erythema due to rosacea. No significant differences were found between the vehicle and the verum. According to the analysis of facial erythema, a "less pronounced" or "much less pronounced" appearance was seen in two thirds of patients comparing V1 to V0. Especially, the dryness of the skin improved by the use of the vehicle and the verum. Adverse subjective skin sensations decreased by 61.3% for the verum side and by 58.6% for the vehicle side. Subjective and objective analysis of ocular manifestation differed, with subjective manifestations reported more frequently, thus highlighting underdiagnosis of ocular rosacea.

CONCLUSIONS

As no clear differences between the verum and the vehicle were found, an optimal skin care regime itself seems to have a superior effect in the relief of facial erythema and foremost of subjective symptoms, rather than certain active ingredients.

Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine

BACKGROUND

The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product.

AIMS

In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one.

METHODS

Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream).

RESULTS

Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles.

CONCLUSION

These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

Characterization of Reactive and Sensitive Skin Microbiota: Effect of Halymenia durvillei (HD) Extract Treatment

After characterization of the reactive skin microbiota, we investigated whether the active Halymenia durvillei (HD), rich in polysaccharides, could modulate this microbiota after 28 days of treatment, act on neuroinflammation parameters, and calm feelings of discomfort and redness. Skin microbiota was assessed using next-generation sequencing experiments (16S RNA gene fragment sequencing) on samples collected from 30 volunteers suffering from reactive, sensitive skin. To evaluate the effect of the HD extract on neuroinflammation, we used an ex vivo model. Finally, an in vivo study was performed using a clinical assessment (blood microcirculation via videocapillaroscopy) of functional signs employing the Sensitive Scale and the soothing effect was evaluated and compared to a placebo treatment. At the phylum level, the samples were mostly composed of Actinobacteria, Proteobacteria, Firmicutes, and Bacteroidetes, which accounted for more than 97% of the total sequencing read in all samples, with no differences before or after treatment with the HD active ingredient. The Shannon Diversity index indicated lower microbial communities compared to healthy skin. Maintenance of the Shannon Diversity index was reported after 28 days of HD active ingredient treatment, wherein microbial communities continued to decrease in number during treatment with the placebo. The average taxonomic composition of associated skin microbial communities showed that reactive skin is characterized by a low proportion of the Chryseobacterium genus compared to a high proportion of the Corynebacterium genus. At the species level, Actinobacteria are mainly represented by Propionibacterium acnes (72.13%) and Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii (13.23%), representing species typically observed in clinical cases of redness, the main criteria for volunteer inclusion. Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii, with increased levels being associated with skin redness, decreased with HD treatment. This decrease coincided with the clinical improvement observed after 7 weeks of treatment. The ex vivo study revealed that the HD extract induced a significant decrease in the expression of TRPV-1 (−67%; p < 0.001) and NK1-R (−43%; p < 0.01) compared to the control after 6 days of treatment. These data support the use of polysaccharides, found in red alga, in the treatment of reactive and sensitive skin related to the modulation of skin microbiota.

Online comment-based prediction of cosmetic ingredient's sensory irritation using gradient boosting algorithm

BACKGROUND

The worldwide prevalence of "sensitive skin" group is estimated at being close to 40%. The main trigger for sensitive skin is the misuse of cosmetics products. Majority of the in vitro studies on cosmetic ingredients developed for topical application to the skin are not able to describe sensory irritation, such as stinging, burning, itching, and tingling. Besides, most of the in vivo tests often encounter problems such as limited number of subjects and usage scenarios deviate from reality.

OBJECTIVE

A gradient boosting algorithm is adopted in our context to integrate multisource of information including skin types, sensory response, and cosmetics ingredients to predict sensory irritation.

METHOD

In this study, online comments were preprocessed to construct a multi-dimensional structured data including skin types, sensory response, and cosmetics ingredients. A gradient boosting regression model was developed where sensory response was predicted based on the abovementioned structured input. The predictions were validated by in vivo test and were shown favorably when comparing with the state-of-the-art results from related works.

RESULT

46 007 samples were collected after data cleaning and were used in model developing. Results showed that the model was capable to predict the sensory response of 16 skin types to different ingredients (R = 0.71, P < 10^-10 ). In addition, this model was validated using data from in vivo studies and presented a value of 75% on specificity, 88.9% on sensitivity, and 82.4% on accuracy.

CONCLUSION

Our approach that is based on a variant of the gradient boosting algorithm provided an adequate solution for understanding the sensory irritation of cosmetic ingredients.

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes

BACKGROUND

High demand on anti-aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process.

AIM

To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin.

METHODS

In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full-thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti-glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays.

RESULTS

In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL-6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti-melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin-1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase-like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti-glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts.

CONCLUSION

Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.

Grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus as TRPV1 receptor blockers for cosmetic applications

OBJECTIVE

Blocking the TRPV1 receptor is an interesting approach for the treatment of sensitive skin. Here we investigated the potential of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus to act as TRPV1 receptor blockers and their potential to serve as cosmetic active ingredients.

METHODS

Binding characteristics of grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus were determined in competitive and functional in vitro assays to achieve IC₅₀ values. The TRPV1 receptor was activated in vivo with capsaicin and noxious heat to investigate skin reddening, microcirculation, skin sensations and heat pain thresholds.

RESULTS

Grifolin derivatives extracted from Albatrellus ovinus proved to inhibit the TRPV1 receptor in vitro and in vivo. Besides suppression of the TRPV1 receptor activity upon chemical stimulation with capsaicin, thermal activation was shown to be inhibited as well by application of cosmetic formulations containing 3% Albatrellus ovinus extract. The reduction of stinging and burning sensations as well as reduction of reddening and microcirculation upon irritation with capsaicin or thermal stress proved efficacy in vivo.

CONCLUSION

Grifolin derivatives from Albatrellus ovinus are able to serve as fungal-derived TRPV1 receptor blockers with capability to serve as a cosmetic active ingredient on sensitive skin.