Herbal nanocosmecuticals: A review on cosmeceutical innovation

Mentha aquatica (Water Mint) as a Source of Active Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Ingredients: A Critical Review

Mentha aquatica L., or water mint, is an important member of the Mentha genus, and has long been used in traditional medicine, mainly to treat respiratory diseases such as the common cold. Nevertheless, although over the years many studies have shown that it's potential grows beyond this use, a review that highlights M. aquatica L.'s true potential is still lacking. Thus, the main purpose of the present article is to provide a thorough and multidisciplinary critical review of M. aquatica L., including its phytochemical characterization, main bioactivities, and current marketed cosmetic products. Many compounds have been identified as part of M. aquatica L. composition, such as terpenes, phenolic acids, phenols, and terpenoids, which have been linked to a vast therapeutic potential, namely anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, antiobesity, and hepatoprotection bioactivities, with additional anticancer potential for several types of tumors (breast, lung, and skin), and psycho and neuroactive potential in depression, or Alzheimer's or Parkinson's disease. Additionally, it has been proven to be suitable for cosmetic application since several cleansing, hydrating, protecting, and/or odor masking products containing it are already available, with the main functions attributed to M. aquatica including refreshing/cooling effects, calming/soothing/relaxing effects, and purifying effects, properties closely related to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant bioactivities. Hence, M. aquatica is an extremely versatile plant, with its extracts and essential oils having great therapeutic and cosmetic potential. With many marketed cosmetic products, future studies should focus on this plant's medicinal aspects, so that 1 day it can be part of therapeutic regimens.

The Biology and Biochemistry of Kynurenic Acid, a Potential Nutraceutical with Multiple Biological Effects

Kynurenic acid (KYNA) is an antioxidant degradation product of tryptophan that has been shown to have a variety of cytoprotective, neuroprotective and neuronal signalling properties. However, mammalian transporters and receptors display micromolar binding constants; these are consistent with its typically micromolar tissue concentrations but far above its serum/plasma concentration (normally tens of nanomolar), suggesting large gaps in our knowledge of its transport and mechanisms of action, in that the main influx transporters characterized to date are equilibrative, not concentrative. In addition, it is a substrate of a known anion efflux pump (ABCC4), whose in vivo activity is largely unknown. Exogeneous addition of L-tryptophan or L-kynurenine leads to the production of KYNA but also to that of many other co-metabolites (including some such as 3-hydroxy-L-kynurenine and quinolinic acid that may be toxic). With the exception of chestnut honey, KYNA exists at relatively low levels in natural foodstuffs. However, its bioavailability is reasonable, and as the terminal element of an irreversible reaction of most tryptophan degradation pathways, it might be added exogenously without disturbing upstream metabolism significantly. Many examples, which we review, show that it has valuable bioactivity. Given the above, we review its potential utility as a nutraceutical, finding it significantly worthy of further study and development.

Vesicular Drug Delivery Systems: Promising Approaches in Ocular Drug Delivery

Ocular drug delivery poses unique challenges due to the complex anatomical and physiological barriers of the eye. Conventional dosage forms often fail to achieve optimal therapeutic outcomes due to poor bioavailability, short retention time, and off-target effects. In recent years, vesicular drug delivery systems have emerged as promising solutions to address these challenges. Vesicular systems, such as liposome, niosome, ethosome, transfersome, and others (bilosome, transethosome, cubosome, proniosome, chitosome, terpesome, phytosome, discome, and spanlastics), offer several advantages for ocular drug delivery. These include improved drug bioavailability, prolonged retention time on the ocular surface, reduced systemic side effects, and protection of drugs from enzymatic degradation and dilution by tears. Moreover, vesicular formulations can be engineered for targeted delivery to specific ocular tissues or cells, enhancing therapeutic efficacy while minimizing off-target effects. They also enable the encapsulation of a wide range of drug molecules, including hydrophilic, hydrophobic, and macromolecular drugs, and the possibility of combination therapy by facilitating the co-delivery of multiple drugs. This review examines vesicular drug delivery systems, their advantages over conventional drug delivery systems, production techniques, and their applications in management of ocular diseases.

Nanocosmetics and Skin Health: A Comprehensive Review of Nanomaterials in Cosmetic Formulations

The development of nanocosmetics nanotechnology has ushered in a new age in cosmetic research, completely changing the skincare scene. This abstract investigates the relationship between skincare and nanotechnology, particularly emphasizing the effects of nanocosmetics on skin health. Cosmetics, known as "nanocosmetics," use materials at the nanoscale, typically between 1 and 100 nanometers, to improve the effectiveness and delivery of active chemicals. Nanotechnology in cosmetics allows for the development of sophisticated delivery methods that provide enhanced stability and tailored distribution, including nanoemulsions and nanocapsules. This breakthrough overcomes the constraints of conventional formulations by enabling the entry of active ingredients into the skin's deeper layers. Studies investigating nanocosmetics and skin health were included. This encompassed in vitro studies, animal models, and clinical studies of various designs. Exclusion criteria included studies focusing solely on nanotechnology unrelated to skin health or nanocosmetics and review articles editorials, commentaries, and conference abstracts. Nanocosmetics is a groundbreaking development in skincare that provides creative answers to a range of skin issues. As the area develops, realizing the full potential of nanotechnology in fostering ideal skin health will need sustained research and adherence to safety regulations.

Nanocrystals in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals by topical delivery

The main issues with local delivery of cosmetics are their high sensitivity and limited drug loading of active pharmaceutical ingredient. Nanocrystal technology offers consumers cutting-edge and effective products and exhibits enormous development potential in the beauty business as a new delivery method to address the issue of low solubility and low permeability of sensitive chemicals. In this review, we described the processes for making NCs, along with the impacts of loading and the uses of different carriers. Among them, nanocrystalline loaded gel and emulsion are widely used and may further improve the stability of the system. Then, we introduced the beauty efficacy of drug NCs from five aspects: anti-inflammation and acne, anti-bacterial, lightening and freckle removal, anti-aging as well as UV protection. Following that, we presented the current scenario about stability and safety. Finally, the challenges and vacancy were discussed along with the potential uses of NCs in the cosmetics industry. This review serves as a resource for the advancement of nanocrystal technology in the cosmetics sector.

Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility

Two Helichrysum italicum extracts, OPT-1 (rich in phenolic acids) and OPT-2 (rich in total phenols and flavonoids), were prepared using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD)-assisted extraction. The prepared extracts were rich in phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids. GC-MS analysis of the extracts identified neryl acetate, neo-intermedeol, β-selinene, γ-curcumene, italidione I, and nerol as the main volatile components of the extracts, as well as plant sterols, γ-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. The antioxidant (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power, and a carotene linoleic acid assay) and cosmeceutical (anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-lipoxygenase, ovalbumin anti-coagulation, and a UV-absorption assay) activity of the extracts in most of the assays was better than the activity of the applied positive controls. Especially low were the IC50 values of the extracts in the anti-hyaluronidase (14.31 ± 0.29 μL extract/mL and 19.82 ± 1.53 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and the anti-lipoxygenase (0.96 ± 0.11 μL extract/mL and 1.07 ± 0.01 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) assays. The extracts were non-toxic to HaCaT cells in concentrations of up to 62.5 µL extract/mL assuring their status as excellent candidates for cosmeceutical product development appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products without solvent evaporation.