Acute hand and wrist injuries in experienced rock climbers

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing

Introduction

Climbing has evolved from an obscure outdoor sport to a predominantly indoor sport with the rise of mainstream climbing on artificial walls. Reported climbing-related injuries were predominantly chronic and may be avoided with proper planning of training. All climbers, regardless of age and gender, are training on the same routes and perform similar movements; however, few studies have investigated gender-specific injuries in climbing.

Objectives

Assess the distribution of chronic climbing injuries in an international population with gender-specific analyses and assess the impact of the person's training focus or aim of training on those injuries.

Methods

A cross-sectional survey using a web-based item-driven questionnaire was created and promoted using social media and several climbing media stakeholders. All climbers engaged in either sport climbing, bouldering or traditional climbing were included.

Results

The survey received 1513 responses (877 men, 427 women and 9 not reporting gender), of which 50.3% (n=665; 51.4% men and 48.0% women) had experienced an injury in the past 12 months. There were significant differences in injuries in feet/ankle (p=0.014), neck (p=0.03), head (p=0.0001), shoulder (p=0.001), elbow (p=0.021) and fingers (p=0.003).

Conclusion

Over 50% of the climbers experienced an injury in the past 12 months. The most common injuries were to the shoulders (women) and fingers (men). There were significant differences between the genders regarding injury site and prevalence. The gender differences may be affected by the aim for training and the style of climbing.

Handedness, Bilateral, and Interdigit Strength Asymmetries in Male Climbers

PURPOSE

To determine whether there are bilateral and interdigit differences in the maximal force production of experienced climbers and whether these differences are mediated by ability level or preferred style of climbing.

METHODS

Thirty-six male climbers (age 30 [9.4] y) took part in a single-session trial to test their maximal force production on both hands. The tests included a one-arm maximal isometric finger flexor strength test (MIFS) and a one-arm individual MIFS. Bilateral differences were analyzed by strongest hand (defined as the hand that produced the highest MIFS value) and dominance (defined as the writing hand).

RESULTS

A pairwise t test found that MIFS was significantly greater for the strongest hand (mean difference = 4.1%, 95% CI, -0.052 to 0.029, P < .001), with handedness explaining 89% of the variation. A 2-way mixed-model analysis of variance determined that there were no interactions between preferred style (bouldering or sport climbing) and MIFS or between ability level (advanced or elite) and MIFS.

CONCLUSIONS

Climbers have significant finger flexor strength bilateral asymmetries between their strongest and weakest hand. Moreover, when dominance is controlled, this difference in strength is present, with the dominant hand producing more force. Neither preferred style of climbing nor the ability level of the climbers could explain these asymmetries. As such, practitioners should consider regularly monitoring unilateral strength, aiming to minimize the likelihood of large bilateral asymmetry occurring.

Bimodal buckling governs human fingers' luxation

Equilibrium bifurcation in natural systems can sometimes be explained as a route to stress shielding for preventing failure. Although compressive buckling has been known for a long time, its less-intuitive tensile counterpart was only recently discovered and yet never identified in living structures or organisms. Through the analysis of an unprecedented all-in-one paradigm of elastic instability, it is theoretically and experimentally shown that coexistence of two curvatures in human finger joints is the result of an optimal design by nature that exploits both compressive and tensile buckling for inducing luxation in case of traumas, so realizing a unique mechanism for protecting tissues and preventing more severe damage under extreme loads. Our findings might pave the way to conceive complex architectured and bio-inspired materials, as well as next generation artificial joint prostheses and robotic arms for bio-engineering and healthcare applications.

Epidemiology of hand injuries that presented to a tertiary care facility in Germany: a study including 435 patients

BACKGROUND

Hand injuries compose up to 30% of all injuries in emergency care. However, there is a lack of epidemiological data reflecting patient or accident-related variables, injury types, injured anatomical structures or trauma localization.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this study is (1) to provide epidemiological information on hand injuries and their patterns and (2) to visualise the frequencies of affected areas of the hand in relation to the most common trauma mechanisms using color-coded heatmaps.

METHODS

This prospective single-center observational trial conducted at a surgical emergency department in Germany collected data of hand trauma patients using a standardized documentation form. Demographic data, trauma-related data, diagnostic and therapeutic measures were analyzed. Color-coded heatmaps were generated marking anatomic danger zones.

RESULTS

435 patients with a mean age of 39.5 were included. Most patients admitted on their own initiative (79%). Leisure and sport injuries were most frequent (75%). Digiti II-V were injured most commonly (43%), followed by metacarpals (19%) and the thumb (14%). Blunt trauma and cuts accounted for most injuries (74%). Hand-graphics depicted color-coded frequencies of the affected areas of the palmar and dorsal aspect of the hand for the most common types of injury, as well as the most frequent circumstances of accident. Elective surgery was recommended in 25% of cases, and hand surgical follow-up was proposed in over 50% of cases.

CONCLUSIONS

The dorsal aspect of the hand including the 5th metacarpal, the radial wrist and thenar region, as well as the fingertips of Digiti II/III represent anatomic danger zones to injury of the hand. Due to the large variety of potentially injured structures, diagnosis and treatment is not trivial. Specific training is required for all surgical specialties in emergency care, to increase quality of diagnostic work-up and management of hand injuries.

[Bouldering: a sport with a high risk of intraarticular fractures]

Bouldering is a famous new sport with an increasing number of athletes. It became an Olympic sport in 2020. As no major sports equipment is required, everybody can take up bouldering even with little knowledge. However, despite the low climbing height there is a high risk of severe joint injuries, especially in the lower limb. Increasing numbers of climbers have led to an increase in injuries. New floor designs are supposed to reduce these risks. Improved documentation and specific research in bouldering should provide more insight into risks, injury patterns and prevention.

Injuries in alpine summer sports - types, frequency and prevention: a systematic review

Introduction

Summer alpine sports, including mountain biking, hiking and airborne pursuits, have experienced a recent surge in popularity. Accordingly, trauma associated with these activities has increased. There is a scarcity of literature exploring clinical aspects surrounding injuries. Specifically, no single article provides a general overview, as individual studies tend to focus on one particular sport. In the present study, we performed a systematic literature review to summarize existing knowledge and explore the potential for prevention and clinical decision making in this group.

Method

Literature searches were performed using the PubMed and Scopus database for the most commonly ventured sports associated with injury: mountain biking, climbing, airborne sports, paragliding, and base jumping. From this search, studies were identified for qualitative and quantitative analyses. These searches were done according to PRISMA guidelines for systematic reviews. Studies were then analyzed regarding epidemiology of injuries, relevant anatomical considerations and prevention strategies were discussed.

Results

A broad spectrum of injury sites and mechanisms are seen in mountain biking, climbing or airborne sports. Mountain biking related injuries commonly involve the upper extremity, with fractures of the clavicle being the most common injury, followed by fractures of the hand and wrist. Scaphoid fractures remain of paramount importance in a differential diagnosis, given their often subtle clinical and radiological appearance. Paragliding, skydiving, and base jumping particularly affect transition areas of the spine, such as the thoracolumbar and the spinopelvic regions. Lower limb injuries were seen in equal frequency to spinal injuries. Regarding relative risk, mountain biking has the lowest risk for injuries, followed by climbing and airborne sports. Male alpinists are reported to be more susceptible to injuries than female alpinists. Generally, the literature surrounding hiking and water-related mountain sports is insufficient, and further work is required to elucidate injury mechanisms and effective preventative measures. A helmet seems to decrease the likelihood of face and head injuries in mountain sports and be a meaningful preventive measurement.

Epidemiological Study of Foot Injuries in the Practice of Sport Climbing

Background. Climbing is a multidisciplinary sport, where the main objective is to reach the highest point of a rock wall or to reach the end of an established route. There are different types of modalities: sport climbing and traditional climbing. The risks and precautions taken with respect to this sport will directly affect the epidemiology of injuries related to its practice. The present study was designed to identify and characterize the most frequent injuries in the feet of climbers and to determine if there is a relationship between the injuries that appear and the time spent practicing the sport. Methods. A total of 53 people were collected, 32 men and 21 women, corresponding to the climbers of the FEXME (Extremadura Federation of Mountain and Climbing). To determine the diagnoses, exploratory tests, classified according to the variables to be studied, are carried out: inspection variables and questionnaire variables. Results. The average number of years of climbing was seven years, and the average number of hours of training per week was 6.6 h. Some type of alterations were presented in 70% of the respondents, and foot pain was present during climbing in 45% of the participants. The p-value showed a relationship between years of climbing and the occurrence of chronic foot injuries (p = 0.035), however, there is no relationship between the occurrence of injuries and chronological age. Conclusion. We can see that the most frequent injuries in the practice of climbing are claw toes, dermal alterations such as bursitis of the first toe and hallux limitus, followed by hallux valgus. Similarly, only a significant relationship was found between the number of years of climbing and the appearance of foot injuries.

Retrospective Analysis of Functional Pain among Professional Climbers

Climbing became one of the official Olympic sports in 2020. The nociplastic pain mechanism is indicated as important in professional sports. Functional pain, which has not been examined in climbers until now, can be an example of nociplastic pain. This study aimed to determine functional pain locations in climbers according to gender and dominant climbing style. Climbers (n = 183) and healthy subjects (n = 160) completed an online survey focused on functional pain occurrence in the head, spine, and upper limbs. The logistic regression showed that climbing predisposes one to functional pain at: Gleno-humeral joint (odds ratio (OR): 3.06; area under the curve (AUC): 0.635), elbow (OR: 2.86; AUC: 0.625), fingers (OR: 7.74; AUC: 0.733), all (p < 0.05). Among the climbers, the female gender predisposed one to pain at: GHJ (OR: 3.34; AUC: 0.638), thoracic spine (OR: 1.95; AUC: 0.580), and lumbosacral spine (OR: 1.96; AUC: 0.578), all (p < 0.05). Climbing predisposes one to functional pain development in the upper limb. While the male climbers mainly suffered from finger functional pain, the female climbers reported functional pain in the GHJ and the thoracic and lumbosacral spine. Further studies on functional pain occurrence are recommended.

Evaluation of A2 and A4 Hand Pulley Repair Using Tendon Graft Rings

PURPOSE

To compare the mechanical characteristics of A2 and combined A2-A4 pulley repair in the intact and damaged flexor pulley system.

METHODS

After control testing, we recorded tendon excursion and flexion of 11 cadaveric fingers after several interventions: (1) complete excision of A2 and A4, (2) repair of the A2 with one ring of tendon graft, (3) repair of the A2 with 2 rings of tendon graft, and (4) repair of the A2 with 2 rings combined with repair the A4 with one ring.

RESULTS

At the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint, the maximum rotational angle decreased by an average of 30% after complete excision of the A2 and A4 pulleys. This angle was still decreased compared with the control by an average of 25% after one-ring repair at A2, 23% after 2-ring repair at A2, and 17% after 2-ring repair at A2 combined with one-ring repair at A4. At the metacarpophalangeal joint, the average maximum rotational angle decreased by an average of 17% after complete excision of the A2 and A4 pulleys. This angle was still decreased compared with the control by an average of 11% after one-ring repair at A2, 7% after 2-ring repair at A2, and 4% after 2-ring repair at A2 combined with one-ring repair at A4. Kinematic behavior at the PIP joint with an intact pulley system was most closely approximated by the 3-loop repair. The least similar behavior was with a 2-ring construct at A2.

CONCLUSIONS

All repairs increased average flexion at the PIP and metacarpophalangeal joints compared with the unrepaired samples. The 3-ring configuration exhibited a higher recovery of PIP flexion compared with the other repairs.

CLINICAL RELEVANCE

Although each repair restored flexion, clinical studies are necessary to evaluate the clinical relevance of the mechanical results of this study.

Indoor Bouldering-A Prospective Injury Evaluation

INTRODUCTION

Bouldering has become a sport of growing interest, but little prospective evidence exists about injury proportions and patterns. The purpose of this study was to prospectively evaluate the cause of injuries sustained during indoor bouldering, proportion of affected body location, and injury severity.

METHODS

Proportions and patterns of injury among German-speaking indoor boulderers were evaluated prospectively in an explorative cohort study. Participants completed a baseline questionnaire assessing anthropometric data and sport-specific potential preventive and risk factors, followed by monthly injury questionnaires including injury location and injury severity over a period of 12 mo.

RESULTS

Out of 507 boulderers, 222 (44%) sustained 305 injuries. Of those, 78% (n=238) were classified as Union Internationale de Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) 1, 19% (n=57) as UIAA 2, and 3% (n=10) as UIAA 3. Injuries of the upper extremities accounted for 63% (n=191) of all injuries. Injuries of the lower extremities accounted for 23% (n=71) but were more often classified as UIAA≥2 (P=0.0071; odds ratio [OR] 2.23; 95% CI 1.23-4.04) and were more often caused by falling (P=0.0005; OR 2.92; 95% CI 1.57-5.42) and jumping off the wall (P<0.0001; OR 4.39; 95% CI 2.25-8.56) than injuries of other body locations. There was no statistically significant protective effect of the evaluated potential preventive measures. Participants who used heavily downturned climbing shoes had a higher risk of sustaining a UIAA ≥2 injury (P=0.0034; OR 2.58; 95% CI 1.34-4.95).

CONCLUSIONS

Injuries in indoor bouldering are common. Lower extremity injuries are associated with higher injury severity. Preventive measures need to be established to reduce bouldering injuries, especially during falls and landings.

Comprehensive Review of Rock Climbing Injuries

Increasing numbers of people are participating in the sport of rock climbing, and its growth is expected to continue with the sport's Olympic debut in 2020. Extreme loading of the upper extremities, contorted positioning of the lower extremities, rockfall, and falling from height create an elevated and diverse injury potential that is affected by experience level and quantity of participation. Injuries vary from acute traumatic injuries to chronic overuse injuries. Unique sport-specific injuries to the flexor tendon pulley system exist, but the remaining musculoskeletal system is not exempt from injury. Orthopaedic evaluation and surgery is frequently required. Understanding the sport of rock climbing and its injury patterns, treatments, and prevention is necessary to diagnose, manage, and counsel the rock-climbing athlete.

Multiple flexor tendon pulley ruptures in a division 1 collegiate football player

Injuries to the hand and digits are common in football players. To our knowledge, there have been no reports on multiple flexor pulley ruptures in football players treated non-operatively through splinting and taping techniques. A 22-year old collegiate defensive lineman sustained an injury resulting in complete disruption of the annular 2, 3, 4, and cruciate 1 and 2 pulleys. The patient was successfully treated with serial custom splints for 12 weeks. Our splinting and taping techniques and timing of these have not been previously described. This case illustrates a successful treatment option in football players with multiple flexor pulley ruptures.

No pain no gain: a survey of use of healthcare and reasons not to seek healthcare by Norwegian climbers with chronic injuries

Objectives

To assess the use of healthcare, and reasons not to seek healthcare, by climbers with a chronic injury.

Method

Retrospective survey.

Setting

Web-based questionnaire.

Participants

667 active climbers (385 with chronic injuries).

Outcome measure

Use of healthcare (including reasons not to seek healthcare if the patient was not attended by health professionals), performance level in sport climbing, onset of a climbing-related injury, site of injury, preferred style of climbing and gender differences.

Result

Of the 667 respondents, 385 had experienced a chronic injury in the past 6 months. Climbers with a chronic injury are reluctant to seek healthcare, and male climbers are less likely to seek healthcare than female climbers. The two most frequent reasons not to seek healthcare were: (1) an assumption that the injury was not serious enough (70%) and (2) a belief that a health professional could not help (60%). Only one in five of the climbers with a finger injury sought healthcare. The more experienced climbers were less likely to seek healthcare than recreational climbers.

Conclusion

Use of healthcare among climbers with a chronic injury is limited and injured climbers self-assess the injury before seeking medical aid. Experience is a strong predictor for not seeking healthcare after an injury. These findings open up the possibility that some of those who do not seek healthcare after self-assessing the injury are underestimating the seriousness of the injury due to lack of confidence in the health professionals’ abilities to help treating chronic climbing related injuries.

Self-reported chronic injuries in climbing: who gets injured when?

Objectives

To assess self-reported chronic injuries in climbing and possible connections with gender, experience and style of climbing.

Method

Retrospective survey.

Setting

Web-based questionnaire.

Participants

667 active climbers (385 with chronic injuries, 289 males and 96 females).

Main outcome measure

Climbers who had experienced at least one chronic injury during the last 6 months.

Result

About 2/3 of male outdoor climbers had experienced a chronic injury. The three most frequent sites of injury were fingers (41.3%), shoulders (19.4%) and elbows (17.7%). The most frequent injury for the females were fingers (29.2%), shoulder (21.9%), wrist (12.5%), elbow (11.5%) and foot/ankle (10.4%). The most frequent injuries for the male were fingers (45.3%), elbow (19.7%) and shoulder (18.7%). Respondents who preferred outdoor climbing were more prone to injury than others.

Conclusion

Fingers were the most prevalent site of injury regardless of level of experience, gender and whether level of expertise is reported in terms of bouldering or route climbing. There seems to be a gender difference in respect of site of injury prevalence and a different prevalence of injuries according to style of climbing and different levels of expertise. Furthermore, the use of the suggested way of reporting levels of expertise to compare between bouldering and route climbing seems to be robust with no huge differences in terms of incidence level of different injuries.

Structure, function, and control of the human musculoskeletal network

The human body is a complex organism, the gross mechanical properties of which are enabled by an interconnected musculoskeletal network controlled by the nervous system. The nature of musculoskeletal interconnection facilitates stability, voluntary movement, and robustness to injury. However, a fundamental understanding of this network and its control by neural systems has remained elusive. Here we address this gap in knowledge by utilizing medical databases and mathematical modeling to reveal the organizational structure, predicted function, and neural control of the musculoskeletal system. We constructed a highly simplified whole-body musculoskeletal network in which single muscles connect to multiple bones via both origin and insertion points. We demonstrated that, using this simplified model, a muscle's role in this network could offer a theoretical prediction of the susceptibility of surrounding components to secondary injury. Finally, we illustrated that sets of muscles cluster into network communities that mimic the organization of control modules in primary motor cortex. This novel formalism for describing interactions between the muscular and skeletal systems serves as a foundation to develop and test therapeutic responses to injury, inspiring future advances in clinical treatments.

Descriptive Epidemiology, Medical Evaluation, and Outcomes of Rock Climbing Injuries

OBJECTIVE

To gather epidemiologic data on injury type, treatment, and recovery from rock climbing injuries.

METHODS

Design: retrospective cross-sectional study.

SETTING

web-based survey.

PARTICIPANTS

rock climbers who sustained a climbing-related injury during the prior 24 months. Criteria for inclusion: aged ≥18 years; participation in rock climbing at least 4 times per year in the United States.

INTERVENTIONS

none.

MAIN OUTCOME MEASURES

percentage of injured climbers seeking medical care, providers seen, subspecialty referral, development of chronic problems, factors affecting return to climbing, injuries by climbing type, body region, and injury type.

RESULTS

Data were collected over a 60-day period using the Research Electronic Data Capture (REDCap) survey system. Seven hundred and eight surveys were collected from 553 male and 155 female climbers. Thirteen hundred ninety seven injuries were reported, and 975 injuries were suitable for analysis. The most common provider initially seen was a primary care provider. Subspecialty referral was commonly obtained. Injury patterns differed by climbing type. The percentage of respondents that returned to climbing before their injury was fully healed was 51.1%, and 44.9% of respondents developed chronic problems related to their climbing injury. Twenty-eight percent of respondents were unable to return to their previous level of climbing performance. Several factors were associated with delayed recovery from climbing injury.

CONCLUSIONS

A significant number of climbers sought healthcare after injury. A majority of climbers who sought treatment were referred to subspecialist providers. About one-half of climbers were symptomatic when they returned to climbing and developed chronic problems after injury. Factors associated with slower return to climbing included increasing age, smoking, fractures, and surgery.

Survey of Hand and Upper Extremity Injuries Among Rock Climbers

BACKGROUND

Rock climbing first evolved as a sport in the late 18th century. With its growing popularity, the number of rock climbing-related injuries has potential to increase, spurring a rise in the number of articles associated with it. Despite the available literature, there remains a paucity of information about upper extremity injuries sustained by rock climbers, and no studies to date have focused on gender-specific injuries.

METHODS

A 24-question online survey was distributed to rock climbers about upper extremity injuries sustained during rock climbing. Statistical analysis was used to study association between participants' demographics and injuries.

RESULTS

A total of 397 participants responded to the survey. Mean age was 32.5 years with males comprising 85%. No significant differences in demographics or climbing behaviors were found between males and females. Ninety percent of participants reported sustaining an upper extremity injury. Fingers were the most common injury followed by shoulder/arm and elbow/forearm. Our study found females to be more likely to report a rock climbing-related injury, and more likely to undergo surgery for it.

CONCLUSION

Female rock climbers were significantly more likely to report a shoulder/upper arm injury and were also more likely to report undergoing surgery compared with males, where these differences were not due to age or climbing behaviors. Further investigation is warranted into the association between shoulder injuries and female athletes to determine how the gender differences relate to extent of injury as well as health service utilization behaviors.

Injuries in extreme sports

Extreme sports (ES) are usually pursued in remote locations with little or no access to medical care with the athlete competing against oneself or the forces of nature. They involve high speed, height, real or perceived danger, a high level of physical exertion, spectacular stunts, and heightened risk element or death.Popularity for such sports has increased exponentially over the past two decades with dedicated TV channels, Internet sites, high-rating competitions, and high-profile sponsors drawing more participants.Recent data suggest that the risk and severity of injury in some ES is unexpectedly high. Medical personnel treating the ES athlete need to be aware there are numerous differences which must be appreciated between the common traditional sports and this newly developing area. These relate to the temperament of the athletes themselves, the particular epidemiology of injury, the initial management following injury, treatment decisions, and rehabilitation.The management of the injured extreme sports athlete is a challenge to surgeons and sports physicians. Appropriate safety gear is essential for protection from severe or fatal injuries as the margins for error in these sports are small.The purpose of this review is to provide an epidemiologic overview of common injuries affecting the extreme athletes through a focus on a few of the most popular and exciting extreme sports.

Flexor Tendon Pulley Injuries in Rock Climbers

Closed pulley ruptures are rare in the general population but occur more frequently in rock climbers due to biomechanical demands on the hand. Injuries present with pain and swelling over the affected pulley, and patients may feel or hear a pop at the time of injury. Sequential pulley ruptures are required for clinical bowstringing of the flexor tendons. Ultrasound confirms diagnosis of pulley rupture and evaluates degree of displacement of the flexor tendons. Isolated pulley ruptures frequently are treated conservatively with early functional rehabilitation. Sequential pulley ruptures require surgical reconstruction. Most climbers are able to return to their previous activity level.

First overview on chronic injuries in sport climbing: proposal for a change in reporting of injuries in climbing

BACKGROUND

Climbing as a youth sport is growing fast. This is mostly due to indoor walls for training attracting youngsters. With hard training from young ages it is vital to be able to pinpoint training regimes to avoid injuries in athletes. Furthermore, it is vital to know what injuries are most common in the sport to be able to prevent them. Such an overview on injuries does not exist to date. The aim of this overview is to summon the injuries described in published research and to extract the most common.

METHOD

Two literature searches were conducted in PubMed, on 11 August 2013 and 19 August 2015.

RESULT

The searches gave 1409 titles. All titles were carefully examined for the possible finding of descriptions of climbing-related chronic injuries. This led to the reading of 96 abstracts and then to a final inclusion of 47 papers of which 17 described chronic climbing-related injuries. We found descriptions of 45 chronic injuries in those 17 papers.

DISCUSSION

Owing to methodological differences, lack of reporting strategies and non-use of control groups in the included papers, it is not possible to conclude on which groups of climbers are more prone to injuries or to state which injuries are the most prevalent among climbers.

Previous injury as a risk factor for reinjury in rock climbing: a secondary analysis of data from a retrospective cross-sectional cohort survey of active rock climbers

Background

The aim of this article is to report the findings of a secondary analysis of a previous injury study to consider previous injury as a risk factor for reinjury in rock climbing.

Methods

We completed a secondary analysis of 201 questionnaires that were gathered as part of a retrospective cross-sectional cohort survey that investigated the epidemiology of injuries in a representative sample of British rock climbers. Participants had actively engaged in rock climbing over the previous 12-month period and were recruited from six indoor climbing centres and five outdoor climbing venues (men n=163, mean±SD, age=35.2±11.8 years, participating in rock climbing=13.88+11.77 years; women n=38, mean±SD, age=35.1±10.7 years, participating in rock climbing=11.62+9.19 years).

Results

Of the 101 participants who sustained a previous injury, 36 were found to have sustained at least one reinjury. The total number of reinjuries was 82, with the average probability of sustaining at least one reinjury being 35.6% (95% CI 34.71% to 36.8%; p<0.001, McNemar's χ² test) with the relative risk of reinjury being 1.55 (95% CI 1.34 to 1.80). The fingers were the most common site of reinjury (12 participants, 26%; χ²=43.12, df=5, p<0.001).

Conclusions

Previous injury was found to be a significant risk factor for reinjury, particularly at the site of the fingers. Technical difficulty in bouldering and sport climbing behaviours were significantly associated with repetitive overuse reinjury. As participatory figures increase, so does the likelihood that a high proportion of climbers may sustain a reinjury of the upper extremity.

Isolated lateral collateral ligament complex injury in rock climbing and Brazilian Jiu-jitsu

We report two occurrences of high-grade tears of the lateral collateral ligament complex (LCLC), consisting of the anterolateral ligament (ALL) and fibular collateral ligament (FCL). One injury occurred in a rock climber and the other in a martial artist. Increasing awareness of isolated injuries of the LCLC will allow for appropriate diagnosis and management. We review and discuss the anatomy of the LCLC, the unique mechanism of isolated injury, as well as physical and imaging examination findings.

Rock Climbing Injuries: Acute and Chronic Repetitive Trauma

Rock climbing has increased in popularity as a sport, and specific injuries related to its practice are becoming more common. Chronic repetitive injuries are more common than acute injuries, although acute injuries tend to be more severe. We review both acute and chronic upper and lower extremity injuries. Understanding the injury pattern in rock climbers is important for accurate diagnosis.

Common neuromusculoskeletal injuries amongst rock climbers in the Western Cape

Background

Rock climbing is an extreme sport that is fast gaining interest in the Western Cape. Due to the physical nature of the sport, climbers often suffer neuromusculoskeletal (NMS) injuries. Physiotherapists are first-line practitioners who diagnose and treat NMS injuries, but no previous study has been conducted regarding common NMS injuries amongst rock climbers in the Western Cape.

Objective

To determine the common NMS injuries amongst rock climbers, and the relationships between independent variables and injury.

Method

A Quantitative, cross-sectional, retrospective descriptive study design utilised a self-developed survey based on the literature. This was completed by rock climbers from an indoor climbing gym in Cape Town and two outdoor crags in the Western Cape. Out of the total population of 650 climbers, 247 were conveniently sampled to complete the self-administered survey, making the results generalisable to the climbing population.

Results

Finger flexor tendon pulley injuries were the most commonly diagnosed NMS injury. Injury to the fingers, hand and elbow regions were the most common self-reported injury by area. The risk of suffering climbing-related injuries was significantly correlated to gender, setting, grade and type of climbing, but not to frequency of climbing.

Conclusion

The results of this study could assist physiotherapists to assess and manage the common NMS injuries that occur in this group of extreme athletes, as well as to raise awareness amongst rock climbers in the Western Cape about potential risk of injury.

Stress examination of flexor tendon pulley rupture in the crimp grip position: a 1.5-Tesla MRI cadaver study

OBJECTIVE

The objectives of this study were the evaluation of flexor tendon pulley rupture of the fingers in the crimp grip position using magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) and the comparison of the results with MRI in the neutral position in a cadaver study.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

MRI in the crimp grip position and in the neutral position was performed in 21 cadaver fingers with artificially created flexor tendon pulley tears (combined pulley rupture, n = 14; single pulley rupture, n = 7). Measurement of the distance between the tendon and bone was performed. Images were evaluated by two readers, first independently and in cases of discrepancy in consensus. Sensitivity and specificity for detecting combined pulley ruptures were calculated.

RESULTS

Tendon bone distances were significantly higher in the crimp grip position than in the neutral position. Sensitivity and specificity for detecting combined pulley rupture were 92.86 % and 100 % respectively in the crimp grip position and 78.57 % and 85.71 % respectively in the neutral position. Kappa values for interobserver reliability were 0.87 in the crimp grip position and 0.59 in the neutral position.

CONCLUSION

MRI examination in the crimp grip position results in higher tendon bone distances by subjecting the pulleys to a higher strain, which facilitates image evaluation with higher interobserver reliability, higher sensitivity, and higher specificity for combined pulley rupture compared with examination in the neutral position.

Flexor pulley system: anatomy, injury, and management

Flexor pulley injuries are most commonly seen in avid rock climbers; however, reports of pulley ruptures in nonclimbers are increasing. In addition to traumatic disruption, corticosteroid-induced pulley rupture has been reported as a complication of treating stenosing tenosynovitis. Over the last decade, there have been 2 new developments in the way hand surgeons think about the flexor pulley system. First, the thumb pulley system has been shown to have 4 component constituents, in contrast to the classic teaching of 3 pulleys. Second, in cases of zone II flexor tendon injury, the intentional partial A2 and/or A4 pulley excision or venting is emerging as a component for successful treatment. This is challenging the once-held dogma that preserving the integrity of the entire A2 and A4 pulleys is indispensable for normal digit function.

Quantifying forearm and wrist joint power during unconstrained movements in healthy individuals

Background

Wrist movement-related injuries account for a large number of repetitive motion injuries. Remarkably little, if any, empirical data exist to quantify the impact of neuromuscular disorders affecting the wrist or to validate the effectiveness of rehabilitation training programs on wrist functions. The aim of this project was to develop a biomechanical model for quantifying wrist and forearm kinetics during unconstrained movements, to assess its reliability and to determine its sensitivity.

Methods

Twenty healthy subjects with no history of upper arm and wrist pain volunteered for the experiment. To evaluate the reliability of the data, we quantified their forearm and wrist kinetics on two different days (minimum and maximum number of days between experimental sessions were 1 and 4 days respectively). To measure forearm and wrist kinetics, an apparatus was built to offer rotational inertia during forearm and wrist movements. An inertial measurement unit was located near the top of the device measuring its angular position along the frontal and sagittal planes. We used a mathematical model to infer forearm and wrist torque. Thereafter, we calculated the product of torque and angular velocity to determine forearm and wrist power.

Results

Results revealed that for 75% of the power and torque measurements the ICC was greater than 0.75 (range: 0.77 – 0.83). Torque and power measurements for adduction movements, however, were less reliable (i.e., ICC of 0.60 and 0.47, respectively) across testing sessions. The biomechanical model was robust to small measurement errors, and the power peaks between the first and second testing session were not different indicating that there was no systematic bias (i.e., motor performance improvement) between testing sessions.

Conclusions

The biomechanical model can be used to assess the effectiveness of rehabilitation programs, document the progression of athletes or conduct research-oriented testing of maximum forearm and wrist kinetic capacities. Nonetheless, caution should be taken when assessing forearm and wrist power adduction movements. Future studies should aim at defining a set of normative values, for various age groups, for forearm and wrist joint torque and power in healthy individuals.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (doi:10.1186/1743-0003-11-157) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Acute short radiolunate ligament rupture in a rock climber

We report the occurrence of a short radiolunate ligament rupture in a rock climber. To our knowledge, an isolated traumatic rupture of this ligament has not been described in the literature, and awareness of this entity allows initiation of therapy. The magnetic resonance imaging and ultrasound appearances are reviewed and the mechanism of injury is discussed.

The relationship between climbing ability and physiological responses to rock climbing

Aim. The aim of this study was to examine the relationship between submaximal and maximal physiological responses to rock climbing for climbers of differing abilities. Methods. Twenty-six male climbers performed a submaximal climbing test on a known circuit at 90° (vertical) and 105° (15° overhanging) inclination and speed 25 movements·min⁻¹. A maximal test was undertaken on a similar circuit at the same speed with inclination increasing by 10° for each successive 3 min stage. Results. Mean oxygen consumption and heart rate (HR) increased with wall inclination and climbers reached a mean (±SD) peak V˙O2 of 40.3 ± 3.5 mL·kg⁻¹·min⁻¹ during the maximal test. Self-reported climbing ability was negatively correlated with V˙O2 and HR during the submaximal test at 90° (V˙O2, r = −0.82; HR, and r = −0.66) and at 105° (V˙O2, r = −0.84; HR, and r = −0.78) suggesting an increased exercise economy for climbers with a higher ability level. Conclusion. Findings from this study indicate that there is a relationship between wall inclination and the physiological demand of a climb. However, the increased technical ability and fitness of higher level climbers appears to an extent to offset the increased demand through improved exercise economy which in turn leads to an increased time to exhaustion and an improvement in performance.

Feet injuries in rock climbers

While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet. Acute injuries are either caused by ground falls or rock hit trauma during a fall. Most frequently strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. More rare injuries, as e.g., osteochondral lesions of the talus demand a highly specialized care and case presentations with combined iliac crest graft and matrix associated autologous chondrocyte transplantation are given in this review. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.

Rare causes of closed rupture of the flexor tendon

Closed injuries to the flexor tendon are relatively rare. We present three rare causes of closed injury to the flexor tendon. Early recognition and adequate treatment by a specialised hand surgeon are crucial for the prognosis of such cases. Delayed diagnosis and treatment often require secondary reconstruction of the flexor tendon, which results in a worse functional outcome.

Acute injuries and overuse syndromes in sport climbing and bouldering in Austria: a descriptive epidemiological study

BACKGROUND

The increasing popularity of climbing activities is associated with a rise in the number of respective injuries and overuse syndromes. However, a comprehensive scrutiny of the incidence, kind and severity of climbing-related ailments in Austria is so far outstanding. We aimed to evaluate injuries and overuse syndromes in sport climbing and bouldering in Austria and to investigate whether the injury incidence differs between specific groups of climbers.

DESIGN

Retrospective cross-sectional self-report study.

METHODS

A self-report questionnaire to assess (a) demographic and anthropometric characteristics, (b) climbing experience and skill level, and (c) detailed information on climbing-related injuries was made available in climbing halls and on the Internet. Data from 193 climbers (133 males and 60 females; age 30.4 ± 8.1 years; average climbing experience 9.3 ± 7.7 years) were acquired.

RESULTS

A total of 374 injuries were reported by 130 participants (67.4 %). The single most common differential diagnoses, accounting for 56.7 % of all injuries, were strains and ruptures of annular ligaments of the fingers, lateral epicondylitis of the elbow, and sprains or fractures of the ankle joint. The odds for strains of the annular ligaments and lateral epicondylitis were greater in men and increased with older age and higher exposure to climbing stress.

CONCLUSIONS

This is the first comprehensive study investigating climbing-related injuries in Austria. The incidence and kind of the ailments reported confirm results of previous studies. Moreover, our results suggest that the risk to suffer climbing-related overuse syndromes, but not acute injuries, is dependent on sex, age, and exposure to climbing stress.

The flexor tendon pulley system and rock climbing

Rock climbing has increased in popularity over the past two decades. Closed traumatic rupture of the finger flexor tendon pulleys is rare among the general population but is seen much more commonly in rock climbers. This article reviews the anatomy and biomechanics of the finger flexor tendon pulleys, how they may be injured in rock climbing and how these injuries are best diagnosed and managed.

Injuries to individuals participating in mountain and wilderness sports: a review

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this review is to summarize evidence on injuries occurring in individuals participating in mountain and wilderness sports.

DATA SOURCES

Scopus, ISI Web of Knowledge, SPORTDiscus, Ovid Safety and Health, Index to Theses, COPAC, and sportscotland e-library. The search terms were (mountain* or wilderness or adventure or climb* or (hill walk*)) and (accident* or injur* or rescue*) and (epidemiolog* or statistic* or pattern* or survey*). The search period was from 1987 to 2010.

STUDY SELECTION

A total of 2034 articles were identified. The full text of 137 articles was retrieved. Fifty articles met inclusion criteria-mountain and wilderness; nonmotorized, leisure time, outdoor activities; and nonfatal injury. Skiing and snowboarding articles were excluded.

DATA EXTRACTION

Study design was classified using the "STOX" hierarchy of evidence. Study quality was rated independently by 2 reviewers.

DATA SYNTHESIS

All studies were observational. Twenty-one (42%) were longitudinal, 20 (40%) were cross-sectional surveys, and 9 were cohort studies. A majority of casualties were aged 20 to 39 years. There was a clear male majority, 70% to 89% in most studies. The percentage of casualties who sustained severe injuries ranged from 5% to 10%--less than 10% were admitted to hospital. Casualties sustained an average of 1.2 to 2.8 injuries (most >1.6), which mainly affected the soft tissues; between 2% and 38% were fractures. Up to 90% of injuries were to the extremities.

CONCLUSIONS

The majority of mountain and wilderness sports injuries are minor to moderate. However, some casualties have life-threatening medical problems, which may have long-term implications for return to sport and general well-being.

Evaluation of a self-diagnostic tool for Dupuytren's disease in rock climbers

Objective

To determine the validity of a self-diagnostic questionnaire for Dupuytren's disease among rock climbers.

Methods

A simple, self-diagnostic questionnaire for Dupuytren's disease was freely distributed to climbers in Austria and Germany. None of the subjects were medically prescreened. The questionnaire consisted of four questions with pictures concerning their present diagnosis and the differential diagnosis for Dupuytren's disease. Medical experts then clinically examined those climbers who completed the questionnaire for Dupuytren's disease.

Results

Sixty-one climbers (46 men, 15 women; mean age 32 [13] years; climbing for 10 [11] years) participated in the survey; 16 participants were competition climbers. Clinical diagnosis of Dupuytren's disease was confirmed in five cases (8.2%). The questionnaire produced no false-negatives, but there were three (4.8%) false-positive results in this sample. The correlation between the self-diagnostic tool and the clinical examination was r = 0.62 ( P = 0.005). No significant difference ( P = 0.250) was found between the self-diagnostic tool and the clinical examination. The sensitivity of the self-diagnostic tool in a sample of rock climbers was 100%, and its specificity 94.9%.

Conclusions

The questionnaire is an accurate and precise self-diagnostic tool for rock climbers to determine the diagnosis of Dupuytren's disease.

Evaluation of injury and fatality risk in rock and ice climbing

Rock and ice climbing are widely considered to be 'high-risk' sporting activities that are associated with a high incidence of severe injury and even death, compared with more mainstream sports. However, objective scientific data to support this perception are questionable. Accordingly, >400 sport-specific injury studies were analysed and compared by quantifying the injury incidence and objectively grading the injury severity (using the National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics score) per 1000 hours of sporting participation. Fatalities were also analysed. The analysis revealed that fatalities occurred in all sports, but it was not always clear whether the sport itself or pre-existing health conditions contributed or caused the deaths. Bouldering (ropeless climbing to low heights), sport climbing (mostly bolt protected lead climbing with little objective danger) and indoor climbing (climbing indoors on artificial rock structures), showed a small injury rate, minor injury severity and few fatalities. As more objective/external dangers exist for alpine and ice climbing, the injury rate, injury severity and fatality were all higher. Overall, climbing sports had a lower injury incidence and severity score than many popular sports, including basketball, sailing or soccer; indoor climbing ranked the lowest in terms of injuries of all sports assessed. Nevertheless, a fatality risk remains, especially in alpine and ice climbing. In the absence of a standard definition for a 'high-risk' sport, categorizing climbing as a high-risk sport was found to be either subjective or dependent on the definition used. In conclusion, this analysis showed that retrospective data on sport-specific injuries and fatalities are not reported in a standardized manner. To improve preventative injury measures for climbing sports, it is recommended that a standardized, robust and comprehensive sport-specific scoring model should be developed to report and fully evaluate the injury risk, severity of injuries and fatality risk in climbing sports.

Rock climbing injuries treated in emergency departments in the U.S., 1990-2007

BACKGROUND

Rock climbing is an increasingly popular sport in the U.S., with approximately nine million participants annually. The sport holds an inherent risk of falls and stress-related injuries. As indoor climbing facilities become more common, more people are participating in the sport.

PURPOSE

The objective of this study is to describe the prevalence, characteristics, and trends of rock climbing-related injuries treated in U.S. emergency departments from 1990 through 2007.

METHODS

A retrospective analysis was conducted using data from the National Electronic Injury Surveillance System (NEISS) of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission for all ages from 1990 through 2007. Sample weights provided by NEISS were used to calculate national estimates of rock climbing-related injuries. Trend significance of the number of rock climbing-related injuries over time was analyzed using linear regression. Analysis was conducted in 2008.

RESULTS

An estimated 40,282 patients were treated in emergency departments for rock climbing-related injuries in the U.S. over the 18-year period. Patients aged 20-39 years accounted for more than half of all injuries. Fractures, sprains, and strains accounted for the largest portion of injuries (29.0% and 28.6%, respectively). The lower extremities were the most frequently injured body part, accounting for 46.3% of all injuries; ankle injuries accounted for 19.2%. Men were more likely to sustain lacerations (OR=1.65; 95% CI=1.03, 2.67) and fractures (OR=1.54; 95% CI=1.10, 2.17), whereas women were more likely to sustain a sprain or strain (OR=1.68; 95% CI=1.13, 2.51). Overexertion injuries were more likely to occur to the upper extremities (OR=5.32; 95% CI=1.99, 14.23). Falls were responsible for three quarters of all injuries (77.5%). Overall, 11.3% of patients were hospitalized.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results indicate that the most common rock climbing-related injuries are to the lower extremities and are fractures, sprains, and strains. More research is needed to determine how rock-climbers' characteristics, climbing setting, style of climbing, and use of safety equipment and training may affect their risk for certain injury patterns.

Friction between finger flexor tendons and the pulley system in the crimp grip position

BACKGROUND

Disruption of the finger flexor tendon pulleys are the most often occurring injury in rock climbers due to bowstringing of tendons during crimp grip position. The aim of this study was to quantify friction between the flexor tendons and pulleys and the influence of high load and speed of movement as a potential factor of pulley disruption.

METHODS

Friction between the flexor tendons and pulleys of eight human cadaver fingers was indirectly determined using an isokinetic movement device. During flexion and extension movement with rotational speed from 30 to 210 deg/s in the proximal interphalangeal joint and with load from 20 to 100 N to the flexor tendons the flexion force at the tip of the finger was measured.

FINDINGS

With 40 N loaded flexor tendons the force at the fingertip was 14.5 N (SD1.5) during extension and 12.6N (SD1.3) during flexion movement. Corresponding force difference of 12.9% and 3.77 N (SD0.6) force of friction can be calculated. Friction peaked at 85.8 degrees (SD2.05) of flexion of the proximal interphalangeal joint. Different speed of motion and load to the flexor tendons did not influence force difference other than linear.

INTERPRETATION

Considerable friction between flexor tendons and pulleys is apparent and therefore may have an influence on pulley injuries. Particularly during the crimp grip position where the proximal interphalangeal joint is flexed about 90 degrees shows the greatest amount of friction. However there was no change of friction during high speed motion and no other than linear increase during high load.

Structure-function relationships in tendons: a review

The purpose of the current review is to highlight the structure-function relationship of tendons and related structures to provide an overview for readers whose interest in tendons needs to be underpinned by anatomy. Because of the availability of several recent reviews on tendon development and entheses, the focus of the current work is primarily directed towards what can best be described as the 'tendon proper' or the 'mid-substance' of tendons. The review covers all levels of tendon structure from the molecular to the gross and deals both with the extracellular matrix and with tendon cells. The latter are often called 'tenocytes' and are increasingly recognized as a defined cell population that is functionally and phenotypically distinct from other fibroblast-like cells. This is illustrated by their response to different types of mechanical stress. However, it is not only tendon cells, but tendons as a whole that exhibit distinct structure-function relationships geared to the changing mechanical stresses to which they are subject. This aspect of tendon biology is considered in some detail. Attention is briefly directed to the blood and nerve supply of tendons, for this is an important issue that relates to the intrinsic healing capacity of tendons. Structures closely related to tendons (joint capsules, tendon sheaths, pulleys, retinacula, fat pads and bursae) are also covered and the concept of a 'supertendon' is introduced to describe a collection of tendons in which the function of the whole complex exceeds that of its individual members. Finally, attention is drawn to the important relationship between tendons and fascia, highlighted by Wood Jones in his concept of an 'ectoskeleton' over half a century ago - work that is often forgotten today.