Cardiorespiratory demands of competitive rock climbing

Nutritional Assessment, Body Composition, and Low Energy Availability in Sport Climbing Athletes of Different Genders and Categories: A Cross-Sectional Study

Climbing is an Olympic discipline in full development and multidisciplinary in nature, where the influences of body composition and nutritional status on performance have not yet been clarified despite the quest for a low weight in anti-gravity disciplines such as climbing. The present cross-sectional study aimed to conduct nutritional (3-day dietary diaries) and body composition (ISAK profile) assessments on sport climbing athletes by gender and climbing level during the months of February and March 2024. The t-test for independent samples and the Mann-Whitney U-test, as well as an ANOVA and the Kruskal-Wallis H-test, were used to compare the distributions of two or more groups, respectively, and Pearson's and Spearman's correlation coefficients were used to estimate the correlations between the different variables. The mean age of the 46 Spanish climbers (22 men and 24 women) was 30 years (SD: 9) with 7.66 years of experience (SD: 6.63). The mean somatotype of the athletes was classified as balanced mesomorph. Negative correlations were observed between fat mass variables and climbing level (p < 0.010), and positive correlations were observed with forearm circumference (p < 0.050). The mean energy availability (EA) was 33.01 kcal-kg FFM-1d-1 (SD: 9.02), with 55.6% of athletes having a suboptimal EA status and 35.6% having low energy availability (LEA). The carbohydrate and protein intakes were below the recommendations in 57.8% and 31.1% of athletes, respectively. There were deficient intakes of all micronutrients except phosphorus in males. These findings suggest that climbing athletes are at a high risk of developing low energy availability states and concomitant problems. Optimal nutritional monitoring may be advisable in this type of athlete to try to reduce the risk of LEA.

Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization

Rock climbing has evolved from a method for alpine mountaineering into a popular recreational activity and competitive sport. Advances in safety equipment and the rapid growth of indoor climbing facilities has enabled climbers to focus on the physical and technical movements needed to elevate performance. Through improved training methods, climbers can now achieve ascents of extreme difficulty. A critical aspect to further improve performance is the ability to continuously measure body movement and physiologic responses while ascending the climbing wall. However, traditional measurement devices (e.g., dynamometer) limit data collection during climbing. Advances in wearable and non-invasive sensor technologies have enabled new applications for climbing. This paper presents an overview and critical analysis of the scientific literature on sensors used during climbing. We focus on the several highlighted sensors with the ability to provide continuous measurements during climbing. These selected sensors consist of five main types (body movement, respiration, heart activity, eye gazing, skeletal muscle characterization) that demonstrate their capabilities and potential climbing applications. This review will facilitate the selection of these types of sensors in support of climbing training and strategies.

Time Management Strategies of Rock Climbers in World Cup Bouldering Finals

Competitive rock climbing recently made its Olympic debut, but minimal published research exists regarding training and competition strategies. Time management strategies define the structured approach climbers take in bouldering competitions to successfully obtain a “top” or a “zone” hold. During finals rounds of the International Federation of Sport Climbing bouldering competitions, climbers are allotted 240 s to complete a boulder. Variables influencing a climber’s time management strategies include their work-to-rest intervals, and the frequency of their attempts or rests. Video analysis of International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions was used to collect time management strategy data of professional climbers. Fifty-six boulders (28 female and 28 male boulders) over the 2019 International Federation of Sport Climbing season were analyzed. Time management strategies variables were compared between slab/slab-like and non-slab bouldering styles using generalized estimating equations with significance set to p < 0.05. Additionally, we determined trends in success rates for various styles of boulders. There were no differences in the number of attempts taken per boulder between slab/slab-like and non-slab boulders (3.7 ± 2.3 and 3.8 ± 2.4, p = 0.97), but climbers spent more time actively climbing on slab/slab-like (92 ± 36 s) compared to non-slab boulders (65 ± 26 s, p < 0.001). Trends in the success rate suggest climbers who take more than 6 attempts on any boulder style are unsuccessful. The results of this study provide practical information that can be used by coaches and athletes to guide training and competition strategy.

Integrating Wearable Sensors and Video to Determine Microlocation-Specific Physiologic and Motion Biometrics-Method Development for Competitive Climbing

Competitive indoor climbing has increased in popularity at the youth, collegiate, and Olympic levels. A critical aspect for improving performance is characterizing the physiologic response to different climbing strategies (e.g., work/rest patterns, pacing) and techniques (e.g., body position and movement) relative to location on climbing wall with spatially varying characteristics (e.g., wall inclinations, position of foot/hand holds). However, this response is not well understood due to the limited capabilities of climbing-specific measurement and assessment tools. In this study, we developed a novel method to examine time-resolved sensor-based measurements of multiple personal biometrics at different microlocations (finely spaced positions; MLs) along a climbing route. For the ML-specific biometric system (MLBS), we integrated continuous data from wearable biometric sensors and smartphone-based video during climbing, with a customized visualization and analysis system to determine three physiologic parameters (heart rate, breathing rate, ventilation rate) and one body movement parameter (hip acceleration), which are automatically time-matched to the corresponding video frame to determine ML-specific biometrics. Key features include: (1) biometric sensors that are seamlessly embedded in the fabric of an athletic compression shirt, and do not interfere with climbing performance, (2) climbing video, and (3) an interactive graphical user interface to rapidly visualize and analyze the time-matched biometrics and climbing video, determine timing sequence between the biometrics at key events, and calculate summary statistics. To demonstrate the capabilities of MLBS, we examined the relationship between changes in ML-specific climbing characteristics and changes in the physiologic parameters. Our study demonstrates the ability of MLBS to determine multiple time-resolved biometrics at different MLs, in support of developing and assessing different climbing strategies and training methods to help improve performance.