Effects of cosmetic formulations containing hydroxyacids on sun-exposed skin: current applications and future developments

Novel Insight into the Cellular and Molecular Signalling Pathways on Cancer Preventing Effects of Hibiscus sabdariffa: A Review

A category of diseases known as cancer includes abnormal cell development and the ability to infiltrate or spread to other regions of the body, making them a major cause of mortality worldwide. Chemotherapy, radiation, the use of cytotoxic medicines, and surgery are the mainstays of cancer treatment today. Plants or products produced from them hold promise as a source of anti-cancer medications that have fewer adverse effects. Due to the presence of numerous phytochemicals that have been isolated from various parts of the Hibiscus sabdariffa (HS) plant, including anthocyanin, flavonoids, saponins, tannins, polyphenols, organic acids, caffeic acids, citric acids, protocatechuic acid, and others, extracts of this plant have been reported to have anti-cancer effects. These compounds have been shown to reduce cancer cell proliferation, induce apoptosis, and cause cell cycle arrest. They also increase the expression levels of the cell cycle inhibitors (p53, p21, and p27) and the pro-apoptotic proteins (BAD, Bax, caspase 3, caspase 7, caspase 8, and caspase 9). This review highlights various intracellular signalling pathways involved in cancer preventive potential of HS.

Delivery of Active Peptides by Self-Healing, Biocompatible and Supramolecular Hydrogels

Supramolecular and biocompatible hydrogels with a tunable pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.6 lead to a wide variety of formulations useful for many different topical applications compatible with the skin pH. An in vitro viability/cytotoxicity test of the gel components demonstrated that they are non-toxic, as the cells continue to proliferate after 48 h. An analysis of the mechanical properties demonstrates that the hydrogels have moderate strength and an excellent linear viscoelastic range with the absence of a proper breaking point, confirmed with thixotropy experiments. Two cosmetic active peptides (Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 and Palmitoyl tripeptide-5) were successfully added to the hydrogels and their transdermal permeation was analysed with Franz diffusion cells. The liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) analyses of the withdrawn samples from the receiving solutions showed that Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 permeated in a considerable amount while almost no transdermal permeation of Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 was observed.

Potential anti-ageing effects of probiotic-derived conditioned media on human skin cells

In this study, the protective functions of bacteria-free conditioned media from Bifidobacterium and Lactobacillus species against ultraviolet radiation-induced skin ageing and associated cellular damage were investigated. The effects of ultraviolet radiation-induced reactive oxygen species production were suppressed by all conditioned media; particularly, the loss of cell viability and downregulation of collagen gene expression were significantly reversed by the conditioned media from B. longum and B. lactis. Further exa mination of potential anti-pigmentation effects revealed that the B. lactis-derived conditioned media significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanin production in human epidermal melanocytes. Further, the conditioned media suppressed the phosphorylation of extracellular signal- related kinase, which functions as an upstream regulator of melanogenesis. Therefore, B. lactis-derived conditioned media can potentially protect against cellular damage involved in skin-ageing processes.

The Anti-Ageing and Whitening Potential of a Cosmetic Serum Containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid

Skin ageing has many manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Extrinsic and intrinsic factors, especially solar ultraviolet light (UVB), contribute to skin ageing; its main features are brown spots, alterations in melanin pigmentation, and a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid linked to oxidative stress. Several studies showed that topical products containing ingredients with antioxidant activity can reduce oxidative damage; to provide a maximum anti-ageing effect to the skin, topical products can combine various ingredients. C-SHOT SERUM contains a combination of two molecules with a proven anti-ageing activity: a high percentage (30%) of a more stable vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, and lactic acid (1%). The product showed a high biocompatibility, assessed through an MTT assay on keratinocytes and on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE, SkinEthic); the anti-ageing activity was demonstrated on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes by a statistically significant increase in collagen production and a reduction of a UVB-induced DNA damage marker (γ-H2AX histone), indicating DNA protection. Moreover, a depigmenting activity, shown by a highly significant decrease in melanin content on treated Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), was assessed. According to the data of our study, the tested product contrasts the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the physiological decline of the skin.

Organic Acids from Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.)-A Brief Review of Its Pharmacological Effects

Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.), also known as jamaica in Spanish, is a perennial plant that grows in tropical and subtropical regions, including China, Egypt, Indonesia, Mexico, Nigeria, Thailand, and Saudi Arabia. It has a long history of uses, mainly focused on culinary, botanical, floral, cosmetic, and medicinal uses. The latter being of great impact due to the diuretic, choleretic, analgesic, antitussive, antihypertensive, antimicrobial, immunomodulatory, hepatoprotective, antioxidant, and anti-cancer effects. These therapeutic properties have been attributed to the bioactive compounds of the plant, mainly phenolic acids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, and organic acids (citric, hydroxycitric, hibiscus, tartaric, malic, and ascorbic). Most literature reviews and meta-analyses on the therapeutic potential of Hibiscus sabdariffa L. (Hs) compounds have not adequately addressed the contributions of its organic acids present in the Hs extracts. This review compiles information from published research (in vitro, in vivo, and clinical studies) on demonstrated pharmacological properties of organic acids found in Hs. The intent is to encourage and aid researchers to expand their studies on the pharmacologic and therapeutic effects of Hs to include assessments of the organic acid components.

The Role of Bioactive Compounds and other Metabolites from Mushrooms against Skin Disorders- A Systematic Review Assessing their Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Outcomes

Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented antiinflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anticollagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of Inflammatory Skin Diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin, and correct Hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

An investigation of the association between body appreciation, need for self-expression, and interest in cosmetic enhancing procedures

PURPOSE

To examine the association between body appreciation and three factors reflective of individuals' need for self-expression: uniqueness, investment in a distinctive appearance, and interest in cosmetic enhancements.

DESIGN AND METHODS

Cross-sectional, correlational design. Participants (N = 256) completed measurements of body appreciation, interest in cosmetic enhancements, need for uniqueness, and investment in a distinctive appearance.

FINDINGS

Body appreciation was associated with the need for uniqueness and a distinctive appearance investment. Only a generalized need for uniqueness was associated with a greater tendency to use cosmetic enhancing procedures.

IMPLICATIONS

Body appreciation appears to be related to established markers of positive striving for uniqueness. Thus, the use of cosmetic enhancements may serve to promote a unique sense of self and, potentially, a more positive body image.

Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review

Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.