Comparison of the Antiaging and Protective Properties of Plants from the Apiaceae Family

Anti-Aging Effects of Flavonoids from Plant Extracts

Aging is a natural and irreversible process, affecting living organisms by negatively impacting the tissues' and cells' morphology and functionality and consequently being responsible for aging-related diseases. Taking into account the actual preoccupations of both consumers and researchers, healthy anti-aging alternatives are being intensively studied in order to address such concerns. Due to their functional features, plant flavonoids can be considered valuable nutraceuticals. This paper highlights the possibilities to use flavonoids extracted from various plants for their anti-aging potential on the skin, brain, and heart. Moreover, their anticarcinogenic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-diabetic properties are summarized, along with the senescence-associated mechanisms. Both the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical fields are continuously developing and flavonoids originating from plants are promising candidates to obtain such products. Thus, the bioactive compounds' extraction and their subsequent involvement in innovative product manufacturing must be carefully performed while being aware of the various intrinsic and extrinsic factors that may affect the phytochemicals' structures, bioavailability, and health effects.

Skin anti-aging potential of Launaea procumbens extract: Antioxidant and enzyme inhibition activities supported by ADMET and molecular docking studies

Aging is a natural process that occurs in all living organisms. Particularly, the skin embodies aging since it serves as a barrier between the body and its surroundings. Previously, we reported the wound healing effect of Launaea procumbens and identified compounds therein. The study aims to explore the skin anti-aging properties of the plant extract. To that effect, the antioxidant potential of L. procumbens methanolic extract (LPM) was assessed using two complementary DPPH and FRAP assays. The enzyme inhibitory effect of the extract on collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase was evaluated to assess the direct skin anti-aging effects. Similarly, the anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated to explore the indirect anti-aging effects via the assessment of extract inhibitory effects on cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX). In addition, ADMET and molecular docking studies were performed to explore the interaction mechanisms of identified compounds in LPM with target enzymes. LPM demonstrated significant antioxidant activity in DPPH (IC50 = 29.08 µg/mL) and FRAP (1214.67 µM FeSO4/g extract) assays. Plant extract showed significant inhibition of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase (IC50 = 52.68, 43.76, 31.031, and 37.13 µg/mL, respectively). The extract demonstrated significant COX-2 and 5-LOX inhibition capacity with IC50 values of 8.635 and 10.851 µg/mL, respectively. The molecular docking study revealed the high potential of the identified compounds to bind to the active sites of enzymes crucially involved in the skin aging process. ADMET analysis of the compounds revealed their good absorption, distribution, and metabolism profiles, and they were found to be safe as well. Study findings suggest L. procumbens as a promising source for the development of natural skin anti-aging and antioxidant compounds. This, in turn, may facilitate its incorporation into cosmetic formulations after further investigation.

Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K

OBJECTIVE

The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K - (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium.

METHODS

Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used.

RESULTS

Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay.

CONCLUSIONS

SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.

Antioxidants with proven efficacy and elastin-conserving vitamin C-A new approach to free radical defense

BACKGROUND

This paper describes the background research and validation related to the formulation of a novel antioxidant product. Two defined outcomes were sought. Firstly, a combined efficacy of antioxidant ingredients in quenching free oxygen radicals. Secondly, the investigation into whether a vitamin C derivative sodium salt was elastin conserving in contrast to current vitamin C/l-ascorbic acid variations that have been reported to negatively affect elastin constitution and regeneration.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A leading l-ascorbic acid antioxidant available on the market was compared with the experimental new product in two studies. In the first experiment, the products were compared to assess their antioxidant properties. The evaluated products TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 1 and TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 2 were applied to human skin cultures (25-30 mg/cm2 ) for a total of 72 h of treatment and exposed to oxidative stress. The generation of free radicals was semi-quantitatively assessed by measuring the fluorescence intensity of the deacetylation and oxidation of the probe dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA). In the second experiment, an ex vivo skin model (derived from patients undergoing facelift procedures) was used to assess elastin preservation. Three skin explants were topically subjected to the two formulations daily for 7 days. The skin was then prepared and fixed for immunofluorescent assessment after staining with CD44 and tropoelastin antibodies. Images were then analyzed using ImageJ.

RESULTS

A full description of the different components selected for the new formulation is presented. In the first study, the experimental formulation performed with absolute equivalence to the comparator in its radical quenching capacity; both showed extremely effective antioxidant function. In the second study, the comparator negatively affected the existing elastin with areas of breakdown and diminished staining. In contrast, the new formulation showed good conservation of healthy elastin in all sections demonstrating elastin preservation.

CONCLUSION

A new antioxidant formulation was carefully designed with multiple actives that show an equivalent antioxidant capacity to a leading product on the market. More importantly, the vitamin C component shows direct elastin conservation and improvement as opposed to the comparator, which had negative effects on elastin preservation. This is in keeping with little-known literature reports on vitamin C and its negative effects on elastin and validates the use of a sodium salt derivative, which appears to have protective effects on elastin. These findings support the overall regenerative extracellular matrix changes seen with TriHex® technology in other products.

Anti-Inflammatory and Protective Effects of Water Extract and Bioferment from Sambucus nigra Fruit in LPS-Induced Human Skin Fibroblasts

In this study, an attempt was made to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and protective effects of the Sambucus nigra fruit extract and its ferment obtained by fermentation with kombucha tea fungus. For this purpose, fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition by the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was assessed using DPPH and ABTS assays. Cytotoxicity was also determined using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests to assess the viability and metabolism of fibroblast and keratinocyte skin cells. Potential anti-aging properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of the metalloproteinases collagenase and elastase. Tests showed that the extract and the ferment have antioxidant properties and stimulate the proliferation of both cell types. The study also assessed the anti-inflammatory activity of the extract and ferment by monitoring levels of the pro-inflammatory interleukins IL-6, IL-1ß, tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α) and anti-inflammatory IL-10 in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-treated fibroblast cells. The results indicate that both the S. nigra extract and its kombucha ferment can be effective in preventing free-radical-induced cell damage and have positive effects on skin cell health.

The Clinical Evidence-Based Paradigm of Topical Anti-Aging Skincare Formulations Enriched with Bio-Active Peptide SA1-III (KP1) as Collagen Modulator: From Bench to Bedside

A substantial reduction in the amount and quality of collagen leads to age-related deterioration of the elasticity and firmness of the skin. In recent years, multiple compounds have been developed aimed at reversing the molecular features of dermal aging. One such target for aging reversal is collagen degradation or turnover. SA1-III is a decapeptide (Ac-Met-Gly-Lys-Val-Val-Asn-Pro-Thr-Gln-Lys-NH₂), also known as KP1, formally derived from the C-terminal portion of serpin A1, an agent known as a physiological inhibitor of neutrophil elastase, and has been the subject of laboratory and clinical studies determining its effects on modulation of collagen turnover as well as the treatment of age-associated changes of the face. This review aims to provide a bio-inspired approach focusing on the latest scientific studies that describe the compound, as well as a comprehensive appraisal of laboratory and clinical tests on skincare formulations enriched with sA1-III.

Flavonoids from Rhododendron nivale Hook. f delay aging via modulation of gut microbiota and glutathione metabolism

BACKGROUND

Rhododendron nivale Hook. f (R.n), one of the four Manna Stash used in Tibetan medicine to delay aging, possesses anti-aging pharmacological activity. However, which R.n ingredients contain anti-aging properties and the underlying mechanisms involved are unclear.

HYPOTHESIS/PURPOSE

Based on interactions between gut microbiota and natural medicines and the important role of gut microbiota in anti-aging, the study investigated the hypothesis that R.n possesses anti-aging properties and the interaction of gut microbiota with R.n is responsible for its anti-aging effects.

STUDY DESIGN

The primary active ingredients of R.n and their target function and pathway enrichment were explored. An aging mouse model was used to clarify the underlying anti-aging mechanisms of R.n.

METHODS

Chromatography, spectroscopy, nuclear magnetic technology, and pharmacology were used to reveal the major active ingredients of ethanol extract residues of R.n (RNEA). The target function and pathway enrichment of these active ingredients were explored. Plasma metabolomics coupled with intestinal flora evaluation and bioinformatics analysis was used to clarify the underlying anti-aging mechanisms of RNEA.

RESULTS

Myricetin-3-β-D-xylopyranoside, hyperin, goospetin-8-methyl ether 3-β-D-galactoside, and diplomorphanin B were separated and identified from RNEA. The network pharmacology study revealed that the active ingredients' target function and pathway enrichment focused mainly on the glutathione antioxidant system. In a D-galactose-induced mouse model of aging, RNEA was shown to possess suitable anti-aging pharmacological activity, as indicated by the amelioration of memory loss and weakened superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase activities. Plasma metabolomics coupled with intestinal flora examination and bioinformatics analysis revealed that RNEA could regulate the expression of glutathione-related enzymes and ameliorate D-galactose-induced imbalances in methionine, glycine, and serine, and betaine and galactose metabolism. The results showed that RNEA reshaped the disordered intestinal flora and mitigated the D-galactose-mediated decline in glutathione oxidase expression, further confirming that the anti-aging effect of RNEA was closely related to regulation of the glutathione antioxidant system.

CONCLUSION

RNEA, consisting of myricetin-3-β-D-xylopyranoside, hyperin, goospetin-8-methyl ether 3-β-D-galactoside, and diplomorphanin B, possesses anti-aging activity. The anti-aging effect of RNEA might be due to reshaping intestinal flora homeostasis, increasing the expression of glutathione peroxidase 4 in the intestines and liver, enhancing glutathione peroxidase activity, and reinforcing the glutathione antioxidant system.

Photoprotective Potential, Cytotoxicity, and UPLC-QTOF/MS Analysis on Bioactive Solvent Fractions of Moringa concanensis Nimmo Bark

Moringa concanensis Nimmo (Moringaceae) belongs to the same family of M. oleifera (miracle tree) and is a medicinal plant traditionally used by Indians to treat various ailments related to diabetes, tumours, inflammation, and blood pressure. Despite its versatility, the photoprotective properties of the plant remain unclear. This study revealed the UV-protective properties of its methanol bark extract and respective subfractions, chloroform, hexane, and ethyl acetate through total phenolic and flavonoid content (TPC & TFC), antioxidant (DPPH), sun protecting factor (SPF) value, and UV absorption spectra analysis. This study also investigated on the inhibitory effect of the tested samples on collagenases and elastase, which are well-known for their role in the skin. The cytotoxic and H2O2 scavenging properties of M. concanensis in 3T3-L1 cells were explored. Finally, the phytochemical profiling of the active fraction was conducted through UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis. Among the tested fractions, the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis showed the highest TPC (30.92 ± 0.71 mg GAE/DW), TFC (29.05 ± 0.09 mg QE/DW), and antioxidant properties (IC50-6.616 ± 1.90 μgml−1). Additionally, chloroform fraction demonstrated the highest SPF value, 10.46 at 200 μgml−1, compared to the other tested fractions. All the fractions showed a broad absorption spectrum covering both UVA and UVB ranges. The chloroform fraction of M. concanensis also showed collagenase (50%) and elastase (IC50-2.95 ± 1.23 μgml−1) inhibition properties similar to the positive control. Cytotoxic results revealed that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis prevented the H2O2-induced oxidative damage in 3T3-L1 cells even at lower concentrations (1.56 μgml−1). UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis tentatively identified the presence of bioactive flavonoids and phenolics such as astragalin, quercetin, isoquercetin, and caffeic acid in the active fraction of M. concanensis bark. Overall, it is suggested that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis bark has the potency to be used as an active ingredient in sunscreen products.

Evaluation of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Kombucha-Fermented Berry Leaf Extracts Considered to Be By-Products

Leaves of Rubus fruticosus L., Vaccinum myrtillus L., Ribes nigrum L. and Fragaria vesca L. are considered agro-waste of the berry industry, but they can be a rich source of valuable bioactive compounds used in cosmetic industry. In this study, kombucha-fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. Polyphenol compounds were identified by HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS. The antioxidant potential was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of intracellular free radicals contained in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by DPPH and ABTS assay, obtaining a higher radical scavenging capacity for the ferments, especially for R. fruticosus and V. myrtillus ferments. Assessment of the cytotoxicity on skin cell lines showed their positive effect on the viability of fibroblasts and keratinocytes (especially for the ferments after 10 days of fermentation). The potential anti-ageing properties were determined by their ability to inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases, obtaining almost 30% inhibition of collagenase and elastase in the case of fermented V. myrtillus. Moreover, when the samples were applied to the skin, the positive effect of ferments on skin hydration and pH was demonstrated, which indicates that kombucha berry leaf extracts may be an innovative cosmetic ingredient.

Bioactive Compounds in Aegopodium podagraria Leaf Extracts and Their Effects against Fluoride-Modulated Oxidative Stress in the THP-1 Cell Line

Aegopodium podagraria L. (goutweed), a member of the Apiaceae family, is a common perennial plant found all around the world that has been used in folk medicine since antiquity. Goutweed leaves contain polyacetylenes, essential oils, mono- and sesquiterpenes, vitamins, macro- and microelements, and phenolic compounds. In spite of its many health-promoting properties, including antioxidant effects, the plant has not been thoroughly studied. The aim of this study was to investigate the antioxidant properties of different goutweed leaf extracts and their effects on the THP-1 cell line, and also to describe the chemical characteristics of goutweed. Falcarinol and falcarindiol and essential oil were determined by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. Spectrophotometry was used to measure the total content of polyphenols and antioxidant activity–by DPPH and FRAP methods. Oxidative stress in THP-1 cells was induced via sodium fluoride. Then, goutweed leaf extracts were added to evaluate their influence on antioxidant potential (ABTS) and the activity of antioxidant enzymes. Confocal microscopy was used to visualise the production of cytoplasmic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) and for in vitro imaging of apoptosis. The ethanol extracts have a high total content of polyphenols, polyacetylenes, and essential oil, as well as high antioxidant potential. The main volatiles represented diverse chemical groups, which are both oxygenated derivatives of sesquiterpenes and monoterpenes. We also demonstrated positive effects of the high antioxidant potential and increased activity of antioxidant enzymes on cell cultures under severe fluoride-induced oxidative stress. Extraction at 80 ℃ and the use of ethanol as a solvent increased the antioxidant capacity of the extract. The leaves of Aegopodium podagraria may serve as a valuable source of antioxidants in the daily diet and assist in the prevention and treatment of oxidative stress-mediated conditions, e.g., inflammatory conditions, cardiovascular diseases, neurodegenerative diseases, and even obesity.

Ethnobotanical Survey on Skin Whitening Prescriptions of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Taiwan

The increasing interest and demand for skin whitening products globally, particularly in Asia, have necessitated rapid advances in research on skin whitening products used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Herein, we investigated 74 skin whitening prescriptions sold in TCM pharmacies in Taiwan. Commonly used medicinal materials were defined as those with a relative frequency of citation (RFC) > 0.2 and their characteristics were evaluated. Correlation analysis of commonly used medicinal materials was carried out to identify the core component of the medicinal materials. Of the purchased 74 skin whitening prescriptions, 36 were oral prescriptions, 37 were external prescriptions, and one prescription could be used as an oral or external prescription. After analysis, 90 traditional Chinese medicinal materials were obtained. The Apiaceae (10%; 13%) and Leguminosae (9%; 11%) were the main sources of oral and external medicinal materials, respectively. Oral skin whitening prescriptions were found to be mostly warm (46%) and sweet (53%), while external skin whitening prescriptions included cold (43%) and bitter (29%) medicinal materials. Additionally, mainly tonifying and replenishing effects of the materials were noted. Pharmacological analysis indicated that these medicinal materials may promote wound healing, treat inflammatory skin diseases, or anti-hyperpigmentation. According to the Spearman correlation analysis on interactions among medicinal materials with an RFC > 0.2 in the oral skin whitening prescriptions, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white) and Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz. showed the highest correlation (confidence score = 0.93), followed by Ziziphus jujuba Mill. (red) and Astragalus propinquus Schischkin (confidence score = 0.91). Seven medicinal materials in external skin whitening prescriptions with an RFC > 0.2, were classified as Taiwan qī bái sàn (an herbal preparation), including Angelica dahurica (Hoffm.) Benth. & Hook. f. ex Franch. & Sav., Wolfiporia extensa (Peck) Ginns, Bletilla striata (Thunb.) Rchb. f., Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz., Ampelopsis japonica (Thunb.) Makino, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white), and Bombyx mori Linnaeus. Skin whitening prescriptions included multiple traditional Chinese medicinal materials. Despite the long history of use, there is a lack of studies concerning skin whitening products, possibly due to the complex composition of traditional Chinese medicine. Further studies are required to assess the efficacy and safety of these traditional Chinese medicinal materials for inclusion in effective, safe, and functional pharmacological products.

Flavonoids as inhibitors of human neutrophil elastase

Elastase is a proteolytic enzyme belonging to the family of hydrolases produced by human neutrophils, monocytes, macrophages, and endothelial cells. Human neutrophil elastase is known to play multiple roles in the human body, but an increase in its activity may cause a variety of diseases. Elastase inhibitors may prevent the development of psoriasis, chronic kidney disease, respiratory disorders (including COVID-19), immune disorders, and even cancers. Among polyphenolic compounds, some flavonoids and their derivatives, which are mostly found in herbal plants, have been revealed to influence elastase release and its action on human cells. This review focuses on elastase inhibitors that have been discovered from natural sources and are biochemically characterised as flavonoids. The inhibitory activity on elastase is a characteristic of flavonoid aglycones and their glycoside and methylated, acetylated and hydroxylated derivatives. The presented analysis of structure-activity relationship (SAR) enables the determination of the chemical groups responsible for evoking an inhibitory effect on elastase. Further study especially of the in vivo efficacy and safety of the described natural compounds is of interest in order to gain better understanding of their health-promoting potential.

Apiaceae as an Important Source of Antioxidants and Their Applications

The excess level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) disturbs the oxidative balance leading to oxidative stress, which, in turn, causes diabetes mellites, cancer, and cardiovascular diseases. These effects of ROS and oxidative stress can be balanced by dietary antioxidants. In recent years, there has been an increasing trend in the use of herbal products for personal and beauty care. The Apiaceae (previously Umbelliferae) family is a good source of antioxidants, predominantly phenolic compounds, therefore, widely used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, cosmeceutical, flavor, and perfumery industries. These natural antioxidants include polyphenolic acids, flavonoids, carotenoids, tocopherols, and ascorbic acids, and exhibit a wide range of biological effects, including anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, anti-atherosclerosis, and anticancer. This review discusses the Apiaceae family plants as an important source of antioxidants their therapeutic value and the use in cosmetics.

Effect of fermentation time on the content of bioactive compounds with cosmetic and dermatological properties in Kombucha Yerba Mate extracts

Kombucha is a beverage made by fermenting sugared tea using a symbiotic culture of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and the yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces along with glucuronic acid, which has health-promoting properties. The paper presents the evaluation of ferments as a potential cosmetic raw material obtained from Yerba Mate after different fermentation times with the addition of Kombucha. Fermented and unfermented extracts were compared in terms of chemical composition and biological activity. The antioxidant potential of obtained ferments was analyzed by evaluating the scavenging of external and intracellular free radicals. Cytotoxicity was determined on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines, resulting in significant increase in cell viability for the ferments. The ferments, especially after 14 and 21 days of fermentation showed strong ability to inhibit (about 40% for F21) the activity of lipoxygenase, collagenase and elastase enzymes and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Moreover, active chemical compounds, including phenolic acids, xanthines and flavonoids were identified by HPLC/ESI-MS. The results showed that both the analyzed Yerba Mate extract and the ferments obtained with Kombucha may be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Dermal Drug Delivery of Phytochemicals with Phenolic Structure via Lipid-Based Nanotechnologies

Phenolic compounds are a large, heterogeneous group of secondary metabolites found in various plants and herbal substances. From the perspective of dermatology, the most important benefits for human health are their pharmacological effects on oxidation processes, inflammation, vascular pathology, immune response, precancerous and oncological lesions or formations, and microbial growth. Because the nature of phenolic compounds is designed to fit the phytochemical needs of plants and not the biopharmaceutical requirements for a specific route of delivery (dermal or other), their utilization in cutaneous formulations sets challenges to drug development. These are encountered often due to insufficient water solubility, high molecular weight and low permeation and/or high reactivity (inherent for the set of representatives) and subsequent chemical/photochemical instability and ionizability. The inclusion of phenolic phytochemicals in lipid-based nanocarriers (such as nanoemulsions, liposomes and solid lipid nanoparticles) is so far recognized as a strategic physico-chemical approach to improve their in situ stability and introduction to the skin barriers, with a view to enhance bioavailability and therapeutic potency. This current review is focused on recent advances and achievements in this area.

The Effect of Ferula communis Extract in Escherichia coli Lipopolysaccharide-Induced Neuroinflammation in Cultured Neurons and Oligodendrocytes

In recent decades, interest in natural compounds has increased exponentially due to their numerous beneficial properties in the treatment of various acute and chronic diseases. A group of plant derivatives with great scientific interest is terpenic compounds. Among the plants richest in terpenes, the genus Ferula L. is one of the most representative, and ferutinin, the most common sesquiterpene, is extracted from the leaves, rhizome, and roots of this plant. As reported in the scientific literature, ferutinin possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as valuable estrogenic properties. Neurodegenerative and demyelinating diseases are devastating conditions for which a definite cure has not yet been established. The mechanisms involved in these diseases are still poorly understood, and oxidative stress is considered to be both a key modulator and a common denominator. In the proposed experimental system, co-cultured human neurons (SH-SY5Y) and human oligodendrocytes (MO3.13) were treated with the pro-inflammatory agent lipopolysaccharide at a concentration of 1 μg/mL for 24 h or pretreated with ferutinin (33 nM) for 24 h and subsequently exposed to lipopolysaccharide 1 μg/mL for 24 h. Further studies would, however, be needed to establish whether this natural compound can be used as a support strategy in pathologies characterized by progressive inflammation and oxidative stress phenomena.

Extraction of Antioxidant Compounds from Blueberry Fruit Waste and Evaluation of Their In Vitro Biological Activity in Human Keratinocytes (HaCaT)

The purpose of this study was to investigate the biological properties of an extract obtained from the waste of blueberry fruit. The study covered the optimization of extraction of antioxidants from blueberry pomace and the determination of antioxidant properties of the extract using HaCaT as the model organism. Research showed that the yield of antioxidants extraction from blueberry waste was dependent on the applied extraction conditions. Based on the mathematical models, the optimal conditions of extraction process in which the maximum quantity of antioxidant compounds is achieved from the waste mass unit, i.e., the relation of the waste mass to the volume of ethanol equal to 1:17.36, and process time equal to 1000 s. The obtained extract was characterized by high antioxidant activity, which was shaped by high content of polyphenols, mainly anthocyanins. Moreover, the extract showed a high ability to protect HaCaT cells from the occurrence of oxidative stress induced by H2O2. Cells treated with the extract and H2O2 generated a lower amount of ROS than cells treated with H2O2 only. The obtained results will be base of further studies on applying the extract in production of diet supplements and functional foods with increased antioxidant activity. Moreover, the main research material is blueberry pomace which is a troublesome waste material for juice producers. Consequently, according to a sustainable development idea, the study results will provide an opportunity to increase interest in the problem of rational use of the waste material to a certain extent.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular and well-known medicinal plant. In this study, an attempt to evaluate the possibility of using this plant in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases was made. The antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties of ethanolic extracts from Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) were assessed. Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of extracts chemically composition was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The total polyphenol content (TPC) of biologically active compounds, such as the total content of polyphenols (TPC), flavonoids (TFC), and assimilation pigments, as well as selected phenolic acids, was assessed. FEE was evaluated for their anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties, achieving 68% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity, 60% of collagenase and 49% of elastase. FEE also showed high antioxidant activity, reaching to 87% of free radical scavenging using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 59% using 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using two vehicles, i.e., a hydrogel and an emulsion containing FEE. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in FEE penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. The obtained results indicate that E. angustifolium may be an interesting plant material to be applied as a component of cosmetic and dermatological preparations with antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties.

A Newfangled Collagenase Inhibitor Topical Formulation Based on Ethosomes with Sambucus nigra L. Extract

Sambucus nigra L. (S. nigra) is a shrub widespread in Europe and western Asia, traditionally used in medicine, that has become popular in recent years as a potential source of a wide range of interesting bioactive compounds. The aim of the present work was to develop a topical S. nigra extract formulation based on ethosomes and thus to support its health claims with scientific evidence. S. nigra extract was prepared by an ultrasound-assisted method and then included in ethosomes. The ethosomes were analyzed in terms of their size, stability over time, morphology, entrapment capacity (EC), extract release profile, stability over time and several biological activities. The prepared ethosomes were indicated to be well defined, presenting sizes around 600 nm. The extract entrapment capacity in ethosomes was 73.9 ± 24.8%, with an interesting slow extract release profile over 24 h. The extract-loaded ethosomes presented collagenase inhibition activity and a very good skin compatibility after human application. This study demonstrates the potential use of S. nigra extract incorporated in ethosomes as a potential cosmeceutical ingredient and on further studies should be performed to better understand the impact of S. nigra compounds on skin care over the time.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties of Selected Ayurvedic Plant Extracts

Due to the constantly growing interest in ingredients of natural origin, this study attempts to evaluate the possibility of using extracts from three Ayurvedic plants in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases. Therefore, studies of antioxidant properties were carried out using DPPH and ABTS radicals, obtaining 76% and 88% of these radical scavenging, respectively. A significant decrease in the intracellular level of free radicals and an increase in the activity of the antioxidant enzyme-superoxide dismutase by almost 60% were also observed. In addition, the extracts were assessed for anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties, obtaining over 70% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity and almost 40% of collagenase. Additionally, the cytoprotective properties of the obtained extracts on skin cells, keratinocytes and fibroblasts, were demonstrated. To assess the content of biologically active compounds, HPLC-electrospray ionization (ESI)-MS/MS multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) analyses were performed. The obtained results show that all three analyzed plants are a valuable source of biologically active substances with desired properties in the context of skin cell protection. Particularly noteworthy is the extract of Epilobium angustifolium L., for which the most promising results were obtained.