Penetration and Metabolism of Topical Retinoids in ex vivo Organ-Cultured Full-Thickness Human Skin Explants

Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the 'gold standard' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.

Transdermal Drug Delivery of Tazarotene: Determining Tazarotene's Potential in Local Transdermal Therapy

Retinoid-based drugs, while effective, are associated with systemic toxicity. Topical alternatives offer a safer option, and tazarotene, a third-generation synthetic retinoid, holds promise. This study investigates tazarotene's transdermal delivery potential, focusing on its application for joint-related conditions. The aim of this study was to investigate the suitability of tazarotene as a candidate for transdermal delivery into joints. In vitro permeation studies, using porcine skin, assessed tazarotene's transdermal drug delivery from solution and gel formulations. A tape-stripping analysis determined stratum corneum retention and a pilot study using porcine joints assessed tazarotene's ability to reach articular cartilage. Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled with a mass detector method was used to quantify tazarotene and tazarotenic acid permeation. The results validate that tazarotene can permeate porcine skin and accumulate in articular cartilage in detectable amounts. The detection of tazarotene and tazarotenic acid in both the in vitro permeation studies and the pilot study on porcine joints validate the drug's potential therapeutic use for hand osteoarthritis. This study lays the groundwork for future research, contributing insights into tazarotene's potential for transdermal drug delivery and guiding further exploration in topical retinoid applications.

An eco-friendly system for stabilization of retinol: A step towards attending performance with improved environmental respect

OBJECTIVE

Retinol (Vitamin A) is one of the most effective molecules for the treatment of skin aging. However, it degrades rapidly under the influence of light, oxygen, metal ions, and oxidizing agents. To prevent this, stabilizing systems are used commonly. Notably, butylated hydroxytoluene (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol) (BHT) and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) salts exhibit excellent antioxidant and metal-chelating properties but are not eco-friendly. In this study, our goal was to develop a new eco-friendly stabilization system for retinol-based formulations such that the system does not interfere with retinol skin absorption, nor its clinical efficacy.

METHODS

An evaluation tool called the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) was used to assess the environmental performance of formulations containing retinol and the various stabilizers investigated. Accelerated stability tests were performed on formulations stored for 2 months at 4 and 45°C (ISO/TR Standard 18811 2018 directives). Long-term stability evaluation was done on formulations stored for 24-months at room temperature. Retinol skin absorption was assessed by the Franz cell method using human skin explants (OECD guideline 428). Finally, a clinical study was performed to evaluate the cosmetic performance of a 0.3% stabilized retinol formulation.

RESULTS

N,N'-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid ([S,S]-EDDS isomer) and pentaerythritol tetrakis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) (PBHC) showed higher biodegradability and a reduced water footprint compared with those of BHT and EDTA. The SPOT simulation gave [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC a score of 10 versus 8.84 for EDTA + BHT. Moreover, [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC better controlled the chemical degradation of retinol compared with EDTA + BHT. Retinol skin absorption was also achieved in the case of a formulation containing [S,S]-EDDS + PBHC, and several skin attributes improved significantly after 12 weeks of product use, with over 75% of the panel perceiving benefits.

CONCLUSION

Regarding retinol stabilization, the PBHC + [S,S]-EDDS combination is an eco-friendlier and more effective alternative to BHT + EDTA.

Type I IFNs link skin-associated dysbiotic commensal bacteria to pathogenic inflammation and angiogenesis in rosacea

Rosacea is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease with a fluctuating course of excessive inflammation and apparent neovascularization. Microbial dysbiosis with a high density of Bacillus oleronius and increased activity of kallikrein 5, which cleaves cathelicidin antimicrobial peptide, are key pathogenic triggers in rosacea. However, how these events are linked to the disease remains unknown. Here, we show that type I IFNs produced by plasmacytoid DCs represent the pivotal link between dysbiosis, the aberrant immune response, and neovascularization. Compared with other commensal bacteria, B. oleronius is highly susceptible and preferentially killed by cathelicidin antimicrobial peptides, leading to enhanced generation of complexes with bacterial DNA. These bacterial DNA complexes but not DNA complexes derived from host cells are required for cathelicidin-induced activation of plasmacytoid DCs and type I IFN production. Moreover, kallikrein 5 cleaves cathelicidin into peptides with heightened DNA binding and type I IFN-inducing capacities. In turn, excessive type I IFN expression drives neoangiogenesis via IL-22 induction and upregulation of the IL-22 receptor on endothelial cells. These findings unravel a potentially novel pathomechanism that directly links hallmarks of rosacea to the killing of dysbiotic commensal bacteria with induction of a pathogenic type I IFN-driven and IL-22-mediated angiogenesis.

Dermatokinetics: Advances and Experimental Models, Focus on Skin Metabolism

Numerous dermal contact products, such as drugs or cosmetics, are applied on the skin, the first protective barrier to their entrance into the organism. These products contain various xenobiotic molecules that can penetrate the viable epidermis. Many studies have shown that keratinocyte metabolism could affect their behavior by biotransformation. While aiming for detoxification, toxic metabolites can be produced. These metabolites may react with biological macromolecules often leading to sensitization reactions. After passing through the epidermis, xenobiotics can reach the vascularized dermis and therefore be bioavailable and distributed into the entire organism. To highlight these mechanisms, dermatokinetics, based on the concept of pharmacokinetics, has been developed recently. It provides information on the action of xenobiotics that penetrate the organism through the dermal route. The purpose of this review is first to describe and synthesize the dermatokinetics mechanisms to consider when assessing the absorption of a xenobiotic through the skin. We focus on skin absorption and specifically on skin metabolism, the two main processes involved in dermatokinetics. In addition, experimental models and methods to assess dermatokinetics are described and discussed to select the most relevant method when evaluating, in a specific context, dermatokinetics parameters of a xenobiotic. We also discuss the limits of this approach as it is notably used for risk assessment in the industry where scenario studies generally focus only on one xenobiotic and do not consider interactions with the rest of the exposome. The hypothesis of adverse effects due to the combination of chemical substances in contact with individuals and not to a single molecule are being increasingly studied and embraced in the scientific community.

Commentary on: Evaluation of spice and herb as phyto-derived selective modulators of human retinaldehyde dehydrogenases using simple in vitro method

It is commonly known that aldehyde dehydrogenases (ALDHs) are a promising therapeutic target in many diseases. Bui et al. - the authors of the paper I am discussing here (Biosci Rep (2021) 41(5): BSR20210491; DOI: https://doi.org/10.1042/BSR20210491) - point that there is a lack of research on the use of spices and herbs as the sources of naturally occurring modulators of ALDH activity. In order to carry out this type of research, the authors prepared ethanolic extracts of 22 spices and herbs. The main objective of the study was to investigate retinaldehyde dehydrogenases (RALDHs), of which retinal is the main substrate and ALDH2, the mitochondrial isoform, having acetaldehyde as the main substrate. The obtained results indicated that the tested extracts exhibited differential regulatory effects on RALDHs/ALDH2 and some of them showed a potential selective inhibition of the activity of RALDHs.

Anti-Irritant Strategy against Retinol Based on the Genetic Analysis of Korean Population: A Genetically Guided Top-Down Approach

Retinol, one of the most powerful cosmetic materials for anti-aging supported by a solid scientific background, exhibits a wide range of type and severity of irritation while showing limited user compliance. The lack of understanding of the mechanism of retinol-induced irritation has been the main hurdle in the development of anti-irritation strategies. Here, we identified 30 genetic markers related to the susceptibility to retinol-induced irritation in the Korean population. Based on the genetic analysis, a novel formula against retinol-induced irritation was developed, which mitigated the molecular pathogenesis—as indicated by the genetic markers—of the retinol-induced irritation. In human tests, this formula effectively decreased retinol-induced irritation. Furthermore, a polygenic risk score model for irritation was constructed and validated. Our comprehensive approach for the analysis of retinol-induced irritation will not only aid the development of anti-irritation strategies to ensure higher user compliance but also contribute to improving the current knowledge about the biological effects of retinoids.

Role of Vitamins in Skin Health: a Systematic Review

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

Skin is the main defense organ of the human body against external insults (ultraviolet radiations, infections by pathogenic microorganisms, and mechanical and chemical stress). The integrity and functions of the skin barrier are supported by an adequate supply of micronutrients, such as several vitamins. The purpose of this review was to analyze all vitamin-related skin problems.

RECENT FINDINGS

The World Health Organization has estimated that more than 2 billion people worldwide experience deficiencies in the intake of essential vitamins and minerals; the percentage of adults all over the world using daily vitamin supplements, for treatment or prevention of chronic disease, has increased very rapidly in recent years. In this review, 65 studies have been selected in order to examine the role of the main vitamins and their derivatives involved in maintaining the well-being of the skin and their use as prophylactic and therapeutic agents in the management of skin disorders.

Microemulsion co-delivering vitamin A and vitamin E as a new platform for topical treatment of acute skin inflammation

In this study, we developed a water-in-oil microemulsion containing vitamin A (retinol) and vitamin E (α-tocopherol), which serves as a multifunctional nanosystem that co-delivers antioxidants and displayed additive effect against acute skin inflammation. Microemulsion (ME) was prepared by mixing a surfactant blend (Tween 80 and propylene glycol, 5:1) with isopropyl myristate and water (ratio of 50:40:10, respectively). Vitamin A (0.05% w/w concentration) and/or vitamin E (0.1% w/w concentration) were incorporated into the surfactant mixture of ME by stirring with a magnetic stirrer for 30 min. This multifunctional ME displayed physical stability, with low cytotoxicity in 3T3 cell line, as well as cellular internalization into the cytosol. In vivo treatments using ME delivering α-tocopherol reduced dermal expression of TNF-α by 1.3-fold (p < 0.01), when compared to unloaded ME treatment group. When retinol was added into the ME containing α-tocopherol, it further reduced TNF-α expression by 2-fold (p < 0.001), suggesting the additive effect of vitamin E and vitamin A in the treatment against skin inflammation. In conclusion, we successfully developed the use of water-in-oil ME to pack both vitamin E and vitamin A, and demonstrated for the first time its anti-inflammatory potential when applied topically to TPA-induced inflamed skin.

Utilization of a mouse/human chimeric model for long term metabolic testing of human skin

Until now, ex vivo human skin explant utilization in tissue culture has consisted of limited short-term studies (less than a week). This short timeframe does not allow for the investigation of metabolic responses of complex tissues to specific molecules or compounds. Here, we aim to develop an improved mouse transplantation model that maintains the viability, structure and functionality of the human skin explants for prolonged periods of time. Healthy human skin explants derived from biopsies were grafted onto nude mice and used to perform a toxicological study of the reactivity and functionality of grafted skin explants after one month. Histological observations suggest that the tissue properties and phenotype of the human skin graft are conserved as a result of re-vascularization upon tissue integration. The toxicological test performed shows that the human skin graft reacts to systemic exposure of a xenobiotic metabolic inducer when applied to this mouse model. This mouse/human chimeric model can be effective for the long-term study of human skin reactivity to chemicals as well to study in vivo responses to complex co-exposures.

Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments

Vitamin A is the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects. Vitamin A is in a group of fat-soluble substances and belongs to the category of retinoids. Apart from retinol, that group includes structurally related substances with the biological properties of retinol. Since the biological activity of the substances differs, for the purpose of standardization, it is given in retinol equivalents. Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances slowing the aging process. Retinoids regulate the cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Anti-wrinkle properties of retinoids promote keratinocytes proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain transepidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity. Retinoid activity is related to high affinity for nuclear receptors: RAR – retinoid acid receptors and RXR – retinoid X receptors.

Encapsulation and controlled release of retinol from silicone particles for topical delivery

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is a ubiquitous compound used to treat acne, reduce wrinkles and protect against conditions like psoriasis and ichthyosis. While retinol is used as the primary active ingredient (AI) in many skin care formulations, its efficacy is often limited by an extreme sensitivity to degrade and toxicity at high concentrations. While microencapsulation is an appealing method to help overcome these issues, few microencapsulation strategies have made a major translational impact due to challenges with complexity, cost, limited protection of the AI and poor control of the release of the AI. We have developed a class of silicone particles that addresses these challenges for the encapsulation, protection and controlled release of retinol and other hydrophobic compounds. The particles are prepared by the sol-gel polymerization of silane monomers, which enables their rapid and facile synthesis at scale while maintaining a narrow size distribution (i.e., CV < 20%). We show that our particles can: (i) encapsulate retinol with high efficiency (>85%), (ii) protect retinol from degradation (yielding a half-life 9× greater than unencapsulated retinol) and (iii) slowly release retinol over several hours (at rates from 0.14 to 0.67 μg cm^-2 s^-1/2). To demonstrate that the controlled release of retinol from the particles can reduce irritation, we performed a double blind study on human subjects and found that formulations containing our particles were 12-23% less irritating than identical formulations containing Microsponge® particles (an industry standard by Amcol, Inc.). To show that the silicone particles can elicit a favorable biological response, similar to the Microsponge® particles, we applied both formulations to reconstructed human epidermal tissues and found an upregulation of keratin 19 (K19) and a downregulation of K10, indicating that the reduced irritation observed in the human study was not caused by reduced activity. We also found a decrease in the production of interleukin-1α (IL-1α) compared to formulations containing the Microsponge particles, suggesting lower irritation levels and supporting the findings from the human study. Finally, we show that the silicone particles can encapsulate other AIs, including betamethasone, N, N-diethyl-meta-toluamide (DEET), homosalate and ingenol mebutate, establishing these particles as a true platform technology.

Pickering emulsions stabilized by biodegradable block copolymer micelles for controlled topical drug delivery

Surfactant-free biocompatible and biodegradable Pickering emulsions were investigated as vehicles for skin delivery of hydrophobic drugs. O/w emulsions of medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) oil droplets loaded with all-trans retinol as a model hydrophobic drug were stabilized by block copolymer nanoparticles: either poly(lactide)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) (PLA-b-PEG) or poly(caprolactone)-block-poly(ethylene glycol) (PCL-b-PEG). Those innovative emulsions were prepared using two different processes allowing drug loading either inside oil droplets or inside both oil droplets and non-adsorbed block copolymer nanoparticles. Skin absorption of retinol was investigated in vitro on pig skin biopsies using the Franz cell method. Supplementary experiments by confocal fluorescence microscopy allowed the visualization of skin absorption of the Nile Red dye on histological sections. Retinol and Nile Red absorption experiments showed the large accumulation of hydrophobic drugs in the stratum corneum for the Pickering emulsions compared to the surfactant-based emulsion and an oil solution. Loading drug inside both oil droplets and block copolymer nanoparticles enhanced again skin absorption of drugs, which was ascribed to the supplementary contribution of free block copolymer nanoparticles loaded with drug. Such effect allowed tuning drug delivery to skin over a wide range by means of a suitable selection of either the formulation or the drug loading process.

Photo-co-carcinogenesis of Topically Applied Retinyl Palmitate in SKH-1 Hairless Mice

Cosmetic products that contain retinyl palmitate are popular as antiaging skin treatments; however, recent studies suggest a risk for enhanced skin tumor development with topical retinyl palmitate applications and exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). In this study, we investigated the potential of retinyl palmitate to enhance UVR-induced photo-co-carcinogenesis. Groups of 36 male and 36 female SKH-1 hairless mice were exposed to simulated solar light (SSL) and treated with the control cream or creams containing retinyl palmitate, 5 days per week for 40 weeks. Other groups of mice were exposed to SSL and received no cream treatment or received cream treatments and were exposed to ultraviolet-A or ultraviolet-B. Mice were monitored for the development of skin tumors, and the incidences and multiplicities of squamous cell neoplasia were determined by histopathology. In both the absence and presence of SSL, mice administered the control cream developed skin tumors earlier and had higher incidences and multiplicities of skin squamous cell neoplasms than mice that received no cream treatment. Compared to the control cream groups, mice exposed to SSL and administered the retinyl palmitate creams demonstrated earlier onsets of skin tumors and had increased incidences and multiplicities of squamous cell skin neoplasms.

Protective effect of Cornus walteri Wangerin leaf against UVB irradiation induced photoaging in human reconstituted skin

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Cornus walteri Wangerin has been used in oriental traditional medicine for the treatment of antidiarrheal and inflammation.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The efficacy of Cornus walteri Wangerin on skin anti-photoaging was investigated.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hydrolyzed Cornus walteri Wangerin leaf was tested for the anti-photoaging effects against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, pro-inflammatory cytokines using human reconstituted skin (KeraSkin™-FT) and also tested for elastase activity in vitro. The MMP-1 and pro-inflammatory cytokine levels of the extract were evaluated by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA).

RESULTS

The extract of hydrolyzed Cornus walteri Wangerin leaf (CWE) had the elastase inhibitory activity (IC₅₀: 0.457mg/mL). CWE inhibited MMP-1 expression up to 61% in comparison with the control group which was not treated using CWE, but exposed to UVB. CWE also showed an inhibitory effect on releasing pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6 and IL-8) in KeraSkin™-FT (30% and 57% inhibition at dose of 50μg/mL, respectively).

CONCLUSION

CWE is a promising anti-photoaging agent for the treatment of UVB-induced skin.

Enhanced In Vitro Skin Deposition Properties of Retinyl Palmitate through Its Stabilization by Pectin

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of stabilization of retinyl palmitate (RP) on its skin permeation and distribution profiles. Skin permeation and distribution study were performed using Franz diffusion cells along with rat dorsal skin, and the effect of drug concentration and the addition of pectin on skin deposition profiles of RP was observed. The skin distribution of RP increased in a concentration dependent manner and the formulations containing 0.5 and 1 mg of pectin demonstrated significantly increased RP distributions in the epidermis. Furthermore, it was found that skin distribution of RP could be further improved by combined use of pectin and ascorbyl palmitate (AP), due largely to their anti-oxidative effect. These results clearly demonstrate that the skin deposition properties of RP can be improved by stabilizing RP with pectin. Therefore, it is strongly suggested that pectin could be used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations as an efficient stabilizing agent and as skin penetration modulator.

Non-invasive depth profile imaging of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy: first insights into the method

The stratum corneum is a strong barrier that must be overcome to achieve successful transdermal delivery of a pharmaceutical agent. Many strategies have been developed to enhance the permeation through this barrier. Traditionally, drug penetration through the stratum corneum is evaluated by employing tape-stripping protocols and measuring the content of the analyte. Although effective, this method cannot provide a detailed information regarding the penetration pathways. To address this issue various microscopic techniques have been employed. Raman microscopy offers the advantage of label free imaging and provides spectral information regarding the chemical integrity of the drug as well as the tissue. In this paper we present a relatively simple method to obtain XZ-Raman profiles of human stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy on intact full thickness skin biopsies. The spectral datasets were analysed using a spectral unmixing algorithm. The spectral information obtained, highlights the different components of the tissue and the presence of drug. We present Raman images of untreated skin and diffusion patterns for deuterated water and beta-carotene after Franz-cell diffusion experiment.

Inhibition effect of Gynura procumbens extract on UV-B-induced matrix-metalloproteinase expression in human dermal fibroblasts

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Gynura procumbens Merr. (Asteraceae) has been used as a traditional remedy for various skin diseases in certain areas of Southeast Asia.

AIM OF THE STUDY

In order to evaluate the protective activity of Gynura procumbens extract on skin photoaging and elucidate its mode of action.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and -9 expressions were induced by UV-B irradiation in human primary dermal fibroblasts. MMP-1 expression level was measured by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and Western blot analysis. Zymography was employed for evaluating the enzymatic activity of MMP-9. Anti-inflammatory activity and anti-oxidative capacity of the extract were evaluated by ELISA and dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (DCF-DA) assay.

RESULTS

The ethanolic extract of Gynura procumbens inhibited MMP-1 expression up to 70% compare to negative control group. The enzymatic activity of MMP-9 was inhibited around 73% by the treatment of 20μg/mL of the extract. The extract markedly reduced the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Gynura procumbens extract showed an inhibitory effect on releasing pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6 and IL-8) in human HaCat keratinocyte.

CONCLUSION

The ethanolic extract of Gynura procumbens inhibited MMP-1 and MMP-9 expressions induced by UV-B irradiation via inhibition of pro-inflammatory cytokine mediator release and ROS production.

Analysis of the metabolic deterioration of ex vivo skin from ischemic necrosis through the imaging of intracellular NAD(P)H by multiphoton tomography and fluorescence lifetime imaging microscopy

Ex vivo human skin has been used extensively for cosmeceutical and drug delivery studies, transplantable skin allografts, or skin flaps. However, it has a half-life of a few days due to ischemic necrosis. Traditional methods of assessing viability can be time-consuming and provide limited metabolic information. Using multiphoton tomography and fluorescence lifetime imaging (MPT-FLIM) we assess ischemic necrosis of ex vivo skin by NAD(P)H autofluorescence intensity and fluorescence lifetime. Ex vivo skin is stored in the presence and absence of nutrient media (Dulbecco Modified Eagle Medium) at -20, 4, and 37 degrees C and room temperature over a 7-day time course to establish different rates of metabolic deterioration. At higher temperatures we observe a decrease in NAD(P)H autofluorescence, higher image noise, and a significant increase in the average fluorescence lifetime (tau(m)) from approximately 1000 to 2000 ps. Additionally, significant distortions in NAD(P)H fluorescence lifetime histograms correspond to the reduction in autofluorescence. Skin kept at 4 degrees C, with or without media, showed the least change. Our findings suggest that MPT-FLIM enables useful noninvasive optical biopsies to monitor the metabolic state and deterioration of human skin for research and clinical purposes.

Proposed mechanisms of action for retinoid derivatives in the treatment of skin aging

Skin aging (intrinsic aging) and photoaging (extrinsic aging) involve a similar process that leads to the typical creased appearance of the skin, with the progressive loss of its physical and biologic properties. Photoaging is a premature skin aging caused by long-term exposure to the ultraviolet B radiations of the sun, and is more frequently associated to skin cancer than intrinsic aging. Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and penetrate the epidermis easily. Their biologically active forms can modulate gene expression by binding to nuclear receptors and then to specific DNA sequences. Because of their ability to modulate genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation, they appear as good candidates to treat and prevent photoaging. Hyaluronate and collagen, two major constituents of the dermis, are progressively decreased and altered during aging. Various retinoids were shown to increase their synthesis and concentration in the skin and reduce their rate of degradation. Furthermore, retinoids share a common chemical structure containing several conjugated double bonds that enable them to trap free radicals and absorb UV radiations from the sun, thereby protecting cellular targets such as DNA, lipid membranes, or proteins by preventing direct photochemical damage or UV-induced oxidative stress. Therefore, retinoids may be beneficial in treating skin aging and photoaging because of their biologic, chemical, and physical properties, which act at several levels.

Comparison of epidermal morphologic response to commercial antiwrinkle agents in the hairless mouse

BACKGROUND

A large number of commercial antiwrinkle and antiaging compounds are available to consumers for rejuvenation of facial skin ravaged by age or solar radiation. Experimental data on the histological effects of these commercial products in laboratory models are sparse.

OBJECTIVES

To compare the efficacy of topical application of five commercially available antiaging compounds (retinoic acid, glycolic acid, vitamin C, estrogen, and soy) on the dorsal skin.

METHODS AND MATERIALS

The effects were examined using light microscopic analysis of the epidermis in the normal nonirradiated hairless mouse. The agents were applied daily to dorsal tattooed areas for 2 weeks before histological assessment; neighboring untreated surface areas were used as control. Morphometric measurements of total epidermal width, nuclear volume of keratinocytes in three layers, and index of proliferating cell nuclear antigen according to immunohistochemistry were obtained and statistically analyzed.

RESULTS

Significant histomorphometric effects were noticed with all five agents, but more pronounced changes were obtained with glycolic acid, estrogen, and retinoic acid product.

CONCLUSIONS

These baseline data will be useful for future studies on the effect of ultraviolet radiation to cause photoaging and reparative effects of similar agents in this animal. The information contained in the report may provide guidelines to consumers and clinicians.

Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety

Aging of skin is an intricate biological process consisting of two types. While intrinsic or chronological aging is an inevitable process, photoaging involves the premature aging of skin occurring due to cumulative exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Chronological and photoaging both have clinically differentiable manifestations. Various natural and synthetic retinoids have been explored for the treatment of aging and many of them have shown histological and clinical improvement, but most of the studies have been carried out in patients presenting with photoaged skin. Amongst the retinoids, tretinoin possibly is the most potent and certainly the most widely investigated retinoid for photoaging therapy. Although retinoids show promise in the treatment of skin aging, irritant reactions such as burning, scaling or dermatitis associated with retinoid therapy limit their acceptance by patients. This problem is more prominent with tretinoin and tazarotene whereas other retinoids mainly represented by retinaldehyde and retinol are considerably less irritating. In order to minimize these side effects, various novel drug delivery systems have been developed. In particular, nanoparticles have shown a good potential in improving the stability, tolerability and efficacy of retinoids like tretinoin and retinol. However, more elaborate clinical studies are required to confirm their advantage in the delivery of topical retinoids.

Physiological Role of Retinyl Palmitate in the Skin

The skin is similar to other organs in how it absorbs, stores, and metabolizes vitamin A. However, because of the anatomical location of skin and the specialized physiological roles it plays, there are ways in which the skin is rather unique. The stratified structure of the epidermis results from the orchestration of retinoid-influenced cellular division and differentiation. Similarly, many of the physiological responses of the skin, such as dermal aging, immune defense, and wound healing, are significantly affected by retinoids. While much is known about the molecular events through which retinoids affect the skin's responses, more remains to be learned. Interest in the effects of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and other retinoids on the skin, fueled in part by the promise of improved dermatologic and cosmetic products, will undoubtedly make the effects of retinoids on skin a subject for continued intense investigation.

Retinoids in cosmeceuticals

Retinoids are natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. They are lipophilic molecules and easily penetrate the epidermis. Their biologically active forms can modulate the expression of genes involved in cellular differentiation and proliferation. Retinoic acid (tretinoin), its 13-cis isomer isotretinoin, as well as various synthetic retinoids are used for therapeutic purposes, whereas retinaldehyde, retinol, and retinyl esters, because of their controlled conversion to retinoic acid or their direct receptor-independent biologic action, can be used as cosmeceuticals. These natural retinoic acid precursors are thus expected to be helpful in (i) renewing epidermal cells, (ii) acting as UV filters, (iii) preventing oxidative stress, (iv) controlling cutaneous bacterial flora, and (v) improving skin aging and photoaging. Retinol and retinyl esters are not irritant, whereas demonstrating only a modest clinical efficiency. On the other hand, retinaldehyde, which is fairly well tolerated, seems to be the most efficient cosmeceutical retinoid; it has significant efficiency toward oxidative stress, cutaneous bacterial flora, epidermis renewing, and photoaging.

Spectral properties of topical retinoids prevent DNA damage and apoptosis after acute UV-B exposure in hairless mice

We showed in a recent study that topical retinyl palmitate prevented UV-B-induced DNA damage and erythema in humans. Given that retinyl palmitate is a precursor of retinoic acid, the biological form of vitamin A that acts through nuclear receptors, we wondered whether these protective effects toward UV-B exposure were either receptor dependent or linked to other properties of the retinoid molecule such as its spectral properties. We determined the epidermal retinoid profile induced by topical retinoic acid in hairless mice and analyzed its effect on markers of DNA photodamage (thymine dimers) and apoptosis following acute UV-B exposure; we compared these effects to those induced by other natural topical retinoids (retinaldehyde, retinol and retinyl palmitate) which do not directly activate the retinoid receptors. We then analyzed the direct action of these retinoids on UV-B-induced DNA damage and apoptosis in cultured A431 keratinocytes. Topical retinoic acid significantly decreased (approximately 50%) the number of apoptotic cells, as well as the formation of thymine dimers in the epidermis of mice exposed to acute UV-B. Interestingly, the other topical retinoids decreased apoptosis and DNA damage in a similar way. On the other hand, neither retinoic acid nor the other retinoids interfered with the apoptotic process in A431 keratinocytes exposed to UV-B, whereas DNA photodamage was slightly decreased. We conclude that the decrease of apoptotic cells in hairless mouse epidermis following topical retinoids and UV-B irradiation reflects a protection of the primary targets of UV-B (DNA) by a mechanism independent of the activation of retinoid nuclear receptors, rather than a direct inhibition of apoptosis.